BEST TRIPS CANADA'S - Lonely Planet
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
CANADA’S
BEST TRIPS
32 AMAZING
ROAD TRIPS
Regis St Louis
Ray Bartlett, Oliver Berry, Gregor Clark, Shawn Duthie
Steve Fallon, Carolyn Heller, Anna Kaminski, Adam
Karlin, John Lee, Craig McLachlan, Liza Prado,
Brendan Sainsbury, Phillip Tang
SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK
History & Essential
Top Tips
Culture Photo
Link Family Walking
Your Trips Tour
Tips from
Locals
Food &
Drink 5 Eating PLAN YOUR TRIP
Trip
Detour
Outdoors 4 Sleeping
Welcome to Canada......................... 7
Canada Highlights...........................10
% Telephone i Internet E English-
Number Access Language Menu If You Like....................................... 20
h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family-
Friendly Need to Know.................................. 22
p Parking v Vegetarian
n Nonsmoking Selection # Pet-Friendly City Guide........................................ 24
a Air- s Swimming
Conditioning Pool Canada by Region........................... 28
Canada Classic Trips...................... 30
MAP LEGEND
Routes Trips
Trip Route Trip Numbers
Trip Detour
Linked Trip Trip Stop
ON THE ROAD
Walk Route
Tollway Walking tour
Freeway
Primary Trip Detour
Secondary BRITISH COLUMBIA.......... 33
Tertiary Population
Lane
Unsealed Road
Plaza/Mall
Capital (National)
Capital
(State/Province)
1 Vancouver & the
Fraser Valley.............2 Days 37
Steps City/Large Town
Tunnel
Pedestrian
Town/Village
2 Sea to Sky
Highway.................1–2 Days 45
Overpass Areas
Walk Track/Path Beach
55
Boundaries
Cemetery
(Christian)
3 A Strait Hop.......... 2–3 Days
International Cemetery (Other)
State/Province
Cliff
Park
Forest
Reservation
4 Southern Vancouver
Island Tour............ 4–5 Days 65
Hydrography Urban Area
River/Creek
Swamp/Mangrove
Sportsground
5 Vancouver Island’s
Remote North....... 2–3 Days 73
Canal Transport
Water Airport
Dry/Salt/
Intermittent Lake
Cable Car/
Funicular
6 Okanagan Valley
Wine Tour..................2 Days 81
Glacier Metro/Muni station
Route Markers
Trans-Canada Hwy
Parking
Subway station
Train/Railway
7 Haida Gwaii
Adventure..................2 Days 91
Provincial/ Tram
Territorial Hwy
US National Hwy
Note: Not all symbols
2 US Interstate Hwy
US State Hwy
displayed above appear on
the maps in this book
CONTENTS
8 Circling the
Rockies......................3 Days 99 d North from
Saskatoon............ 3–4 Days 151
9 Around the
Kootenays............. 5–6 Days 107 e Klondike
Highway................ 4–5 Days 159
THE PRAIRIE f Dempster
Highway.................6–7 Days 167
PROVINCES &
THE NORTH..................... 119 ONTARIO.......................... 179
a Dinosaurs, Hoodoos &
the Wild West...... 2–3 Days 123 g Lake Superior
Coastline...................7 Days 183
b Icefields
Parkway.....................2 Days 133 h People &
Culture Loop......... 4–5 Days 191
c Explore Southern
Saskatchewan .... 3–4 Days 143 i The Niagara
Peninsula...................3 Days 201
The Prairie
Provinces &
the North
British p119
Columbia Québec The Atlantic
p33 p241 Region
Ontario
p307
p179
3
Contents cont.
j The Kawarthas..........5 Days 213 THE ATLANTIC
REGION............................ 307
k Southern Ontario
Nature Loop...........5–7 Days 219 s Central
Nova Scotia ............10 Days 311
Thousand Island
l Parkway.....................7 Days 229 t South Shore
Circular....................10 Days 319
QUÉBEC........................... 241 u The Cabot
Trail....................... 2–3 Days 329
Up to the
m Laurentians...............2 Days 245 v Two Islands, Three
Provinces..................8 Days 339
Eastern
n Townships....................1 Day 255 w Icebergs, Vikings
& Whales...................5 Days 349
Montréal to
o Québec City.................1 Day 265
p Around,
In the St
Over &
ROAD TRIP
Lawrence River.........3 Days 273
ESSENTIALS
q The Saguenay Fjord
& Lac St Jean....... 3–4 Days 283
Canada Driving Guide ..................361
r Circling
Gaspé
the
Canada Travel Guide.................... 366
Peninsula ............. 7–8 Days 293
Index...............................................376
Nova Scotia Fishing boats in Peggy’s Cove (p321) JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
4
5
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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WRITER THANKS into shape, and to my fellow
writers for making this book
Banff and Jasper’s trails: Chloe,
Sophie, Wes and Ted, that means
RAY BARTLETT what it is. Heartfelt thanks you! Couldn’t have asked for a
Thanks first and foremost, to to Rosie Hillier for putting up more delightful research crew.
Buck, for the chance to work on with my wanderlust, and to
this, and to each of the editors Susie Berry for long-distance SHAWN DUTHIE
who will peek at it afterwards, correspondence. Thanks also It was great to re-connect with
and to the great team of co- to Sam White, Justin Foulkes, my home province and my
authors. Thanks as well to Deborah Gill, Anna Louis deepest thanks to Vivek, Danny
my family, friends, and to the and many others for useful and Stefan for allowing me to
incredible collage of folks I met Canadian tips and much-needed sleep on your couch, driving too
along the way: Kristina, Vera, hospitality. many kilometres to count and
Rubí, Miro, Allan & Dan, Cat and just making the research even
Greg, Louise and Melva, Alice H, GREGOR CLARK more fun than usual. Of course,
Molly and Spencer (congrats!), Heartfelt thanks to all of the my biggest thank you is to my
Morgan, William Flenders, Josh kind Albertans and fellow wife and son who put up with all
W, Char, the “Lindsays,” Riya, travelers who shared their love my traveling!
and many more. and knowledge of Banff and
Jasper – especially Karina Birch, STEVE FALLON
OLIVER BERRY Kate Williams, Ken Wood, Paul Un très grand merci to the folk
Big thanks to Ben Buckner Krywicki, Erin Wilkinson, Ed and who offered assistance, ideas
for the chance to return to Vanessa, Shauna and Lindsay. and/or hospitality along the way,
write about Canada, to the LP Thanks also to the family and including Gabriel d’Anjou Drouin
editors for whipping my work friends who helped me explore and Maxime Aubin in Québec
THIS BOOK Destination Editor Ben Buckner Dankel, Carly Hall, Victoria
Harrison, Jennifer Hattam,
This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Senior Product Editors Martine
Power, Saralinda Turner, Grace Gabrielle Innes, Kellie Langdon,
Canada’s Best Trips guidebook
Dobell Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor,
was curated by Regis St Louis.
Christopher Pitts, Sarah
It was researched and written Product Editor Jenna Myers
Reid, Tamara Sheward, Simon
by Ray Bartlett, Oliver Berry, Regional Senior Cartographer Williamson
Gregor Clark, Shawn Duthie, Corey Hutchison
Steve Fallon, Carolyn Heller, Cover Researcher Naomi Parker
Book Designer Gwen Cotter
Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, Thanks to Catherine Naghten
John Lee, Craig McLachlan, Liza Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey,
Prado, Brendan Sainsbury and James Bainbridge, Judith
Phillip Tang. This guidebook was Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Joel
produced by the following: Cotterell, Lucy Cowie, Melanie
374
City; Vicky Drolet in Malbaie; wild little Isaac, and my favorite passers-by who helped me,
Sylvie Senécal & Pierre Lachance traveling companions: Rachel, unwittingly or otherwise, during
in Ville de Mont-Tremblant; and who can layer for anything, and my research trip. Special thanks
Carolyne Cyr and Pierre-André Sanda, who endures the road to my wife Liz, my son Kieran
Guichoud in Ste-Adèle. Et à mon better than her daddy. and my mother-in-law Ammy for
cher ‘pays d’hiver’ qui a combattu their company (and patience) on
le bon combat et gagné! (And to JOHN LEE the road.
my beloved `land of winter’ that Heartfelt thanks to Maggie
fought the good fight and won!) for joining me at all those PHILLIP TANG
As always, my share is dedicated restaurants and for keeping me Thank you to Ben Buckner and
to my now spouse and almost calm during the brain-throbbing the DEs for your expertise and
Quebecer, Michael Rothschild. final write-up phase of this legacy. Muchas gracias a Lalo
project. Thanks also to Max, (José Eduardo García Sánchez)
CAROLYN HELLER our crazy-whiskered ginger por tu apoyo y consejo sobre
Many thanks to all the friends cat, for sticking by my desk and estilo y mucho más desde lejos.
and colleagues who shared their also reminding me to chase him Thank you to Felix, Nick Zhang
Québec tips, especially Kim around the house every once in a and all the other Montréalers
Huard-Carette and Emily Dunn. while. Cheers also to my brother who offered guidance; and to
Special thanks to Ben Buckner Michael for visiting from England Manuelle González Goretti for
for signing me onto the Canada and checking out some local advice on the Eastern Townships
team, to Suzie Loiselle and breweries with me: you really and adventures in the Village.
Étienne Fiola for all the advice know how to go the extra mile.
and the crêpes, and to Michaela
Albert, ace travel buddy, snow CRAIG MCLACHLAN ACKNOWLEDGE-
hiker, and champion lobster
eater.
A hearty thanks to all those
who helped out on the road, but
MENTS
Climate map data adapted
most of all, to my exceptionally
ANNA KAMINSKI beautiful wife, Yuriko, who
from Peel MC, Finlayson BL &
McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated
Huge thanks to Ben for maintained semi-control of my
World Map of the Köppen-Geiger
entrusting me with Nunavut, craft-beer intake.
Climate Classification’, Hydrology
NWT and Manitoba, and to
LIZA PRADO and Earth System Sciences, 11,
everyone who’s helped me along
1633–44.
the way. In particular: Theresa A shout out to the extraordinary
and the merry crew of medics, LP team: Ben Buckner, the Front cover photographs
plus Stephen, Alan and Brian in production crew, my co-authors (clockwise from top):
Iqaluit, Markus in Pangnirtung, – I’m so proud to be able to work Icefields Parkway, Alberta and
Joamie, Pootoogook and with you. Mil gracias to Mom and British Columbia; Chantal de
Silaqqi in Cape Dorset, Don and Dad for your boundless support, Bruijne/Shutterstock ©; Totem
Christine in Fort Smith, Sherry love, and curiosity about places Pole, Stanley Park, British
in Valleyview, Jacob and Herb so close to home. Big thanks Columbia; Apexphotos/Getty
in Yellowknife, John and Gina to Eva and Leo for waiting so Images ©; Vintage car, Québec;
in Fort Providence, Lois in Fort patiently for ‘Fun…With Mom.’ Design Pics Inc/Alamy Stock
Simpson, Wayne at Checkpoint, And Gary, my love, there is Photo ©
and Minerva in Inuvik. absolutely no way I could do my Back cover photograph:
job without you. Your support, Okanagan Lake, Kelowna,
ADAM KARLIN your understanding, your British Columbia; Stan Jones/
Big thanks: Ben Buckner, for cheerleading. Thank you, always. Shutterstock ©
getting me on this project, Anna
Kaminski, my commiserator BRENDAN SAINSBURY
in chief, my fellow co-authors, Many thanks to all the skilled
Carolyn and Adam in St John’s, bus drivers, helpful tourist
Gordon in Bonavista, the information staff, generous hotel
construction crews of the New owners, expert burger flippers,
Wes Valley, Mom and Dad, my unobtrusive bears and numerous
375
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
INDEX
Bishop’s University 262 Burgess Shale World
A Blackfoot Crossing Historical Heritage Site 104
Abbaye St-Benoît-du-Lac 259 Park 126-7 business hours 372
accessible travel 367 Blue Mountain 220-1, 226 Butterfly Conservatory 204
accommodations 23, 367-8 boat travel 366-7
activities, see individual Boldt Castle 231 C
actvities Bonanza Creek
cable cars 276
Advocate Harbour 313-14, 317 Discovery Site 164
Sea to Sky Gondola 48
air travel 366 Bonaventure 296
Cabot Trail, the 17, 329-36
Alert Bay 78, 79 Bonavista 355, 357
Calgary 174-5
Algonquin Provincial Park border crossings 363
Campbell River Museum 77
216, 217 Botanical Beach 70
Canada Place 115
Alice Lake 48-9 Bow Lake 135, 141
Canal de Lachine 302
animals 126 Brackendale 48
canoeing 185, 323
Annapolis Royal 323-4, 327 Brandywine Falls
Provincial Park 51-2 Canso 314
Anne of Green Gables 344
Brantford 197 Cap Tourmente National
Antigonish 315, 317 Wildlife Area 277, 279
apps 363 breweries
Cape Blomidon 325
Aquatarium 232 Battery Park Beerbar 312
Cape George 315
aquatic adventures 21 Brothers Brewing Co 193
Cape Smokey 332
Arctic Circle 170-1 Craft Beer Corner 345
Capilano Suspension Bridge 39
area codes 373 Dildo Brewing Company 352
car hire 22
arts 68, 194, 209 Garrison Brewing
Company 358 car insurance 361
Athabasca Falls 140 car travel, see driving
Lake of the Woods Brewing
Athabasca Glacier 137 Carcross 160-2
Company 188
Atlas Coal Mine 126 Carleton 296, 301
Sleeping Giant Brewing
ATMs 372 Co 188 Carmacks 163, 165
Avon River 194 Stone City Ales 231 Carmelis Goat Cheese
Tatamagouche Brewing Artisan 87
B Co 314 Cassis Monna & Filles 275
Brier Island 324, 327 Cathedral Grove 75
Baddeck 336, 337
Brigus 352, 357 Cavendish 344, 347
Baie St Paul 280, 281
Britannia Beach 47, 53 cell phones 23, 373
Banff National Park 101-2, 105
Brockville 232, 235 Charlevoix 18
Bay St Lawrence 332-3
Brohm Lake 49 Charlottetown 345, 347
BC Forest Discovery Centre 59
Bromont 257, 263 cheese 69, 87
beaches 19, 75
Bruce Peninsula National Park Chemainus 59-60, 62-3
Berthierville 266
221-2, 226 Chester 321-2
Big Tancook Island 321
376
Chéticamp 333, 335, 337 driving 13, 361-5, 366 Fort George 205
Chibougamau region 288 fuel 22, 49, 186, 365 Fortress of Louisbourg 331
Chinatown (Vancouver) 114 road rules 60, 364-5 Grassy Island Fort 314
Chinatown (Victoria) 116 tips 170, 362 fossils 314
churches & cathedrals Drumheller 125, 131 fuel 22, 49, 186, 365
Basilica of Our Lady Duck Lake Interpretive
Immaculate 193 Center 155 G
Église de Bonaventure 296 Dungeon Park 355 Gabriola Island 61
Église St-Jean 275 Gananoque 231-2, 235
Her Majesty’s Chapel of the
Mohawks 197
E gas 22, 49, 186, 365
INDEX C-H
Eagle Plains 170 Gaspé 297-8, 301
Our Lady of the Assumption Gastown 114
Co-Cathedral 147 East Point 342-3, 346
Eastend 145-6, 149 gay travelers 371
St Dunstan’s Basilica 345
electricity 370 Géopark de Percé 297
Ursulines Chapel 304
Elliston 353 Georgetown 342, 346
Cirque de Soleil 269
Emerald Lake 104 Gibsons 60-1
climate 22
emergencies 22 Golden 104, 105, 108-9, 113
CN Tower 236
Engineer Creek Golden Spruce, the 94
Coaticook 259
Campground 168-9 gold-panning 41
Columbia Icefield Discovery
Englishtown 331 Goldstream Provincial Park 57-8
Centre 137, 139, 141
Grand Pré 325
Confederation Bridge 345
Grasslands National Park 148
Confederation Trail, the 344 F Gravelbourg 147-8
Coombs 75-6 Far North 288 Green Gables Heritage
costs 23 Fathom Five National Marine Place 344
Cowboy Trail, the 130, 131 Park 223 Greenwich Dunes 343, 346-7
Cowichan Bay 58-9, 62 ferries 342 Grouse Mountain 40
Cranbrook 110, 113 festivals 84, 96, 208 Guelph 192-3, 198
credit cards 372 Field 103-4, 105 Gwaii Haanas National Park
Cumberland 76-7, 79 First Nations Reserve 92
Cupids 352, 357 communities 78, 224
currency 22 culture 288
cycling 322 dance 78
H
Cypress Hills Interprovincial Eskasoni 331 Haida Gwaii 12
Park 145, 149 Haida, the 96 Haliburton Forest 215
history 197 Haliburton Highlands 215-16,
217
D literature 197
Halifax 320-1, 326, 340, 358-9
dangers, see safety Mi’kmaq 331
Hamilton 209
Dartmouth 312-13, 317 Fish Point Provincial Nature
Reserve 225 Harrison Hot Springs 42, 43
Dawson City 12, 164, 165 Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump
Flowerpot Island 223
Dempster Highway 167-72 World Heritage Site 130
food 20, 23, 370-1
Dildo 352 highlights 10-19
Forillon National Park 298
Dinosaur Provincial Park 127, 131 hiking 21
Fort Langley 40-1, 43
dinosaurs 127, 147, 314 historic sites
Fort McPherson 171-2, 173
disabilities, travelers with 367 Alexander Graham Bell
Fort Steele Heritage Town 110
discount cards 369 National Historic Site 336
Fort Whoop-Up 130
diving 223 Chiefswood National Historic
forts Site 197
Dolbeau-Mistassini 288
Fort Anne 323 Citadel Hill National Historic
Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical
Chinese Garden 114 Fort Calgary 174 Site 359
377
Cupids Cove Plantation Lucy Maud Montgomery’s
Provincial Historic K Cavendish Homestead 344
Site 352 Lunenburg 322, 326
Kakabeka Falls Provincial
Fort Henry National Park 188 Lynn Canyon Park 40
Historic Site 231 Lynn Canyon Park Ecology
Kawartha Highlands
Fort Langley National Provincial Park 214-15 Centre 40
Historic Site 40
Kawarthas, the 213-16
Fort Walsh National
Historic Site 146
kayaking 231, 315, 323, 324 M
Keji Seaside Adjunct 324 Magog 259, 261, 263
Fortifications of Québec
National Historic Site 304 Kejimkujik National Park 322-3, Maison Drouin 275
326-7
INDEX H-M
Kilby Historic Site 42 Maitland 313, 317
Kelowna 83-4, 88-9
Pointe-au-Père National Malagash Peninsula 314
Historic Site 299 Kenora 188
Manitou Beach 154
SS Klondike National Kicking Horse Pass 103
Manitoulin Island 224
Historic Site 162 Killarney Provinical Park 185-6,
Maple Creek 144-5, 149
Uncle Tom’s Cabin Historic 189
maple syrup 250
Site 196-7 Kimberley 109-10
maps 363
history 21 Kingston 230-1, 235
Marble Canyon 101
Hockey Hall of Fame 236-7 Klondike Highway 159-64
Margaree Fish Hatchery 336
holidays 373 Knowlton 259
Margaree Valley 335-6
Hoodoo Trail 125 Kootenay Lake 110-11
markets
Hope 42
Hopewell Rocks 345 L Artisan Market 356
Bromont Flea Market 257
Horseshoe Bay 46 La Malbaie 280, 281
ByWard Market 238
Horseshoe Canyon 125 Lac Brome 258-9
Coombs Old Country
hot springs 112 Lac St-François 258
Market 75-6
Lake Cowichan 69-70
Hamilton’s Farmers
I Lake Louise 10-11, 102, 105,
135, 141
Market 209
ice skating 220 Marché Atwater 302
Lake Superior Provincial Park
Icefields Parkway 14-15, 133-40 Saturday Market 70
186-7, 189
Île Bonaventure 297 St Jacobs Farmers Market 193
Langley Farmland 41-2
Île d’Orléans’ North Coast St Lawrence Market 237
languages 22
275, 281 Sunday Antique Market 237
L’Anse St Jean 290
Île d’Orléans’ South Coast Val-David Summer
La Ronge 156, 157
275-6, 281 Market 248
Laurentians, the 245-51
Indian Head Cove 222 Mashteuiatsh 287-8
Lawrencetown Beach 316
Ingonish 332, 337 Masset 95, 97
lesbian travelers 371
insurance 361 Mayne Island 68, 71
Lethbridge 129-30, 131
internet access 23, 371 measures 369
LGBTIQ+ travelers 371
internet resoures 23, 25, 26, Memory Lane Heritage
lighthouses Village 316
27, 365
Cape Bear Lighthouse 342 Merridale Estate Cidery 58
Inuvik 172, 173
Cape d’Or Lighthouse 314 Mi’kmaq culture 331
Cape George Point Mission Hill Family Estate 83, 88
J Lighthouse 315
mobile phones 23, 373
Jasper 140, 141 East Point Lighthouse 342
money 22, 23, 372
Jeddore Oyster Ponds 316 Peggy’s Cove
Montague 342
Joggins Fossil Cliffs 314 Lighthouse 321
Montgomery, Lucy Maud 344
Juan de Fuca Provincial Park 70 Point Prim Lighthouse 345
Montréal 26, 302-3
London 195-6, 199
Mont-Ste-Anne 277
378Mont-Tremblant Village 251 MacBride Museum of Yukon Ursulines Museum 304
Moraine Lake 102 History 162 Vancouver Art Gallery 114-15
Morrisburg 234 Maple Syrup Museum 193 Waterfront Gallery 68
motorcycles, see driving Margaree Salmon music 362
Mt Edith Cavell 140 Museum 336
Maritime Museum of the
Mt Garibaldi 51
Atlantic 358 N
Mt McKay 188
Mennonite Heritage Nakusp 112
museums & galleries
Museum 154 national & provincial parks
Art Gallery of Greater
Musée Acadien du Alice Lake Provincial Park 49
Victoria 57
Québec 296 Arisaig Provincial Park 315
Art Gallery of Guelph 192-3
INDEX M-N
Musée Amérindien de Basin Head Provincial
Art Gallery of Hamilton 209 Mashteuiatsh 287 Park 343
Art Gallery of Nova Scotia Musée d’Art Contemporain Blomidon Provincial Park 325
358-9 de Baie St Paul 280 Cabots Landing Provincial
Audain Art Museum 52 Musée d’Art Contemporain Park 332
BiIl Reid Gallery of Northwest des Laurentides 247 Caribou-Munroes Island
Coast Art 115 Musée de Charlevoix 280 Provincial Park 342
Britannia Mine Museum 47 Musée de l’Amérique Kakabeka Falls Provincial
Canada War Museum 239 Francophone 305 Park 188
Canadian Canoe Museum 214 Musée du Chocolat du Kejimkujik National Park
Canadian Museum of Chocolat de la Confiserie 322-3
Immigration 358 Bromont 257 Killarney Provinical
Centre d’Art Marcel Musée Québécois de Culture Park 185-6
Gagnon 295 Populaire 270 Kootenay National Park 100
Cité de l’Énergie 269 Museum at Campbell Lac La Ronge Provincial
Crystal Cabin 93 River 77 Park 156
Cumberland Museum 77 Museum London 195 Lake Superior Provincial
Deep South Pioneer Musquodoboit Harbour Park 186-7
Museum 148 Railway Museum 316 Naikoon Provincial Park 96
Dixon Entrance Maritime Niagara Falls History Parc de la Gorge de
Museum 95 Museum 203 Coaticook 259
Eagle Aerie Gallery 75 Okanagan Wine and Orchard Parc d’Environnement
East Coulee School Museum 84 Naturel 258
Museum 126 Parisian Laundry Gallery 303 Parc National de
Eastend Historical Pender Islands Museum 68 Frontenac 258
Museum 146 Port Clements Museum 94 Parc National de la
Elmira Railway Museum 342 Powell River Museum 61 Gaspésie 299
Empress of Ireland Power Plant Contemporary Parc National de la
Museum 299-300 Art Gallery 236 Mauricie 268
Esker Foundation Contempo- Prince Albert Historical Parc National de la Pointe-
rary Art Gallery 174-5 Museum 155 Taillon 289
Fisheries Museum of the Revelstoke Railway Parc National de la
Atlantic 322 Museum 112 Yamaska 258
Fisherman’s Life Museum 316 Royal BC Museum 56-7 Parc National de l’Île-
Fundy Geological Royal Tyrrell Museum of Bonaventure-et-du-Rocher-
Museum 313 Palaeontology 125 Percé 296-7
FUSE 115 Silvery Slocan Museum 112 Parc National de
Galerie d’Art Beauchamp 280 Sooke Region Museum 70 Miguasha 295
Gibsons Public Art Spirit Gallery 46 Parc National du Bic 300
Gallery 61 Trinity Museum 353 Parc National du Mont Orford
Keno City Mining Museum 162 258, 261
Trois Pignons 335
379Parc National du Mont- Parc National du Mont-
Mégantic 258 Tremblant 251 Q
Parc National du Mont- Parc Nationale des Hautes Quail’s Gate 88
Tremblant 251 Gorges de la Rivière
Quails’ Gate Winery 83
Parc Nationale des Hautes Malbaie 277
Qualicum Beach 76, 79
Gorges de la Rivière Parker Ridge Trail 136
Malbaie 277 Québec City 304-5
parking 365
Prince Edward Island parks & gardens Québécois culture 270
National Park 343-4 Beacon Hill Park 117
Strathcona Provincial Botanical Gardens 204 R
Park 78
Butchart Gardens 67 radio 362, 369
INDEX N-S
National Gallery of Canada 238
Fort William Historical Radium Hot Springs 100-1, 109
Neil’s Harbour 332 Park 188 rafting 104
Nelson 111-12, 113 Halifax Public Gardens 359 Rathtrevor Beach 76
New Denver 112 Parc Linéaire du P’tit Train du Regina 148, 149
New Glasgow 344-5, 347 Nord 246
Revelstoke 112, 113
newspapers 369 Parc Maritime de
Rimouski 299-300
New-Wes-Valley 356 St-Laurent 276
Ripley’s Aquarium of
Niagara Falls 16-17, 203, 205, West Coast Railway
Canada 236
210 Heritage Park 48
road distances 363
Niagara Glen Nature Parliament Hill (Ottawa) 239
Reserve 204 road rules 60, 364-5
Parrsboro 313, 317
Niagara Peninsula, the 201-8 Roberval 287, 290-1
Peggy’s Cove 13, 321, 326
Niagara-on-the-Lake 205, 207- Rocher Percé 296
Pelee Island 225, 227
8, 210-11 Rose Spit 96, 97
Pender Island 67-8, 71
Nitainlaii Territorial Park 171 Percé 296-7, 301 Rosthern 154
North Hatley 261-2, 263 Peterborough 214, 217
Petrofka Orchard 152-3 S
O Petroglyphs Provincial Park 216 safety 364, 365, 373
Ochre Ponds 101 petrol 22, 49, 186, 365 Saguenay 286, 290
Ogema 148, 149 Peyto Lake 135-6 Saint Peter’s Bay 343
Ogopogo 85 Pictou 341-2, 346 Salt Spring Island 68-9, 71
Okanagan Lavender Farm 84-5 Pinery Provincial Park 223-4, Saskatchewan River
Okanagan Valley 12 227 Crossing 136
Old Masset 95 Pleasant Bay 333, 337 Saskatoon 152, 157, 176-7
opening hours 372 Point Pelee National Park Sault Ste Marie 186, 189
224-5, 227 seals 353
Ottawa 234, 235, 238-9
Port Clements 94-5, 97 Shannon Falls 48
Ottawa Locks 238-9
Porte St-Louis 304 Shawinigan 268-9
Porteau Cove Provincial Sherbrooke 262
P Park 46 shipwrecks 223
Paint Pots 101 Powell River 61 Shubenacadie 340-1
Parc de l’île St-Quentin 270 Prairies, The 18 Sidney 66-7, 71
Parc Linéaire du P’tit Train du Prince Albert 155-6, 157 Signal Hill 350
Nord 248 Prince Albert National Park Silver Trail, the 162
Parc National de la 156, 157
Singing Sands 222
Mauricie 268 Prince Edward Island
Six Nations of the
Parc National de la Pointe- National Park 17, 343-4
Grand River 197
Taillon 289, 291 public holidays 373
Skagway 160, 165
Parc National de Miguasha puffin-watching 353
295-6 Skerwink Trail 353
Skidegate 92-4
380skiing 52, 220, 247, 250-1, Telegraph Cove 77-8, 79
257, 277 telephone services 23, 373 W
Skyline Trail, the 336 Terra Nova National Park 356 water parks 39, 247
Skylon Tower 203 Thousand Island Parkway waterfalls
Slate Islands 187 229-32, 234 American Falls 203
smoking 369 Thousand Islands National Athabasca Falls 140
snorkelling 223 Park 232
Brandywine Falls 51
Sooke 70, 71 Thunder Bay 187-8
Bridal Veil Falls 203
Spiral Tunnels 103 tipping 23
Horseshoe Falls 203
Squamish 53 Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Lookout 172
Sunwapta Falls 139-40
Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Tlell 93-4, 97
INDEX S-Z
Takakkaw Falls 103
Centre 52 Tobermory 223, 226-7
weather 22
Stanley Park 38-9, 43 Tofino 74-5, 79
weights 369
Stawamus Chief 48 toll roads 194
whale-watching 289, 324, 333
Ste-Adèle 2F47-8, 252 totem poles 39, 78, 92, 95, 117
Whistler 52, 53
Ste-Agathe-des-Monts 249 Tombstone Territorial Park 168
White Pass 160
Ste-Anne de Beaupré 276-7, 281 Toronto 27, 236-7
Whitehorse 162, 165
Ste-Irénée 279-80 tourist information 373
wi-fi 23, 371
Ste Anne des Monts 299, 301 Tow Hill 96
Wilcox Ridge 137
Ste Flavie 294-5 Townsite 61
Wild Play Element Parks 60
Ste Rose du Nord 289, 291 train travel 367
wildlife watching 20, 136, 277
St-Élie-de-Caxton 266-8 transport 23, 366-73, see
wine 20
St-Faustin-Lac-Carré 250 also driving
festivals 84, 208
St-Jérôme 246-7 Trinity 353, 357
tasting 12
St-Sauveur-des-Monts 247, 252 Trois-Rivières 269-70, 271
tips 83
St Hubertus Estate Winery Tuktoyaktuk 172, 173
wineries
85, 89 TV 369
Blomidon Estate Winery 325
St Jacobs 193 Twenty Valley Wine Country
208-9, 211 Chaberton Estate Winery 41
St John’s 350-1
Twillingate 356, 357 Creekside Estate Winery 208
Stewart Crossing 163
Jost Winery 314
Stratford 194-5, 198 Tyrannosaurus rex 147
Konzelmann Estate Winery
Sudbury 184-5, 189
207-8
Summerhill Pyramid 89 U Nk’Mip Cellars 84
Summerhill Pyramid
Upper Canada Village 234 Pelee Island Winery 225
Winery 85
Rossignol Estate Winery 342
Summerlands Creamery 152
Sunwapta Falls 139-40 V Sandhill Wines 84
Sea Star Vineyards 67
surfing 316 vacations 373
Strewn 207
Sutton 257-8, 263 Val Marie 146-7, 149
Tawse Winery 209
Sydney 331, 337 Val-David 248-9, 252-3
Vista D’oro 41
Vancouver 24-5, 114-15
Wolfe Island 231
T Vancouver Aquarium 39
Wolfville 324-5, 327
Vancouver Island 19
Table Rock 203 Woodland Cultural Centre 197
Victoria 56-7, 62, 70, 71, 116-17
Tadoussac 289, 291 World’s Largest Dinosaur 125
Victoria Harbour Ferry 57
Takakkaw Falls 103 Writing-on-Stone Provincial
Ville de Mont-Tremblant 250-1,
Tantalus Lookout 49, 51 253 Park 129
Tantalus Mountain Range 49 visas 22, 373
Tatamagouche 314
Taylor Head Provincial Park
Vulcan 127 Z
315-16, 317 zip-lining 40, 268
381©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ADAM KARLIN JOHN LEE Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet Born and raised in the historic UK city of St Albans, guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that John slowly succumbed to the lure of overseas ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe exotica, and arrived on Canada’s West Coast in 1993 Border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, to begin an MA in Political Science at the University of crime, politics, archeology and the Sri Lankan Civil Victoria. Regular trips home to Britain ensued, along War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches with stints living in Tokyo and Montréal, before he from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) returned to British Columbia to become a full-time and his essays and articles have featured in the BBC, freelance writer in 1999. Now living in Vancouver, NPR, and multiple non-fiction anthologies. Adam is John specializes in travel writing and has contributed based out of New Orleans, which helps explain his to more than 150 different publications around the love of wetlands, food and good music. world. CRAIG MCLACHLAN LIZA PRADO Craig has covered destinations all over the globe Liza has been a travel writer since 2003, when she for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in made a move from corporate lawyering to travel Queenstown, New Zealand, for half the year, he runs writing (and never looked back). She’s written dozens an outdoor activities company and a sake brewery, of guidebooks and articles as well as apps and blogs then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading to destinations throughout the Americas. She takes tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Craig has decent photos too. Liza is a graduate of Brown completed a number of adventures in Japan and University and Stanford Law School. She lives very his books are available on Amazon. Check out www. happily in Denver, Colorado, with her husband and craigmclachlan.com fellow LP writer, Gary Chandler, and their two kids. BRENDAN SAINSBURY PHILLIP TANG Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits Phillip grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), and fish’n’chips before moving to Mexico City. A Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty launched him into travel and then writing about it for until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious Peru and Vietnam guides. Writing at hellophillip.com, existence as a writer and professional vagabond. In photos @mrtangtangtang, and tweets @philliptang. the last 11 years, he has written over 40 books for Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru.
OLIVER BERRY GREGOR CLARK
Oliver Berry is a writer and photographer from Gregor Clark is a US-based writer whose love of
Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around
than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries
to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also
30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian
many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely provinces on countless road trips through his native
Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly
including The Guardian Young Travel Writer of the contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on
Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award. Europe and the Americas.
His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.
SHAWN DUTHIE STEVE FALLON
Originally from Canada, Shawn has been traveling, A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated
studying and working around the world for the past from Georgetown University with a Bachelor of
13 years. A love of travel merged with an interest in Science in modern languages. After working for
international politics, which led to several years of several years for an American daily newspaper
lecturing at the University of Cape Town and, now, and earning a Master’s degree in journalism, his
as a freelance political risk consultant specialising fascination with the ‘new’ Asia and led him to Hong
in African countries. Shawn lives in South Africa Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working
and takes any excuse to travel around this amazing for a variety of media and running his own travel
continent. bookshop. He has written or contributed to more than
100 Lonely Planet titles.
CAROLYN HELLER ANNA KAMINSKI
Carolyn has been a full-time travel, food, and feature Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in
writer since 1996, writing for publications including Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University
LonelyPlanet.com, Forbes Travel Guide, Boston Globe, of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American
Los Angeles Times and Viator Travel. The author of Studies, a background in the history, culture and
several guidebooks, she’s also contributed to 50+ literature of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an
travel and restaurant guides for Lonely Planet and enduring love of Latin America. Anna has contributed
other publishers. She’s eaten her way across more to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the
than 40 countries on six continents. road, Anna calls London home.OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few
dollars in the pocket and a
OUR
sense of adventure. In 1972
that’s all Tony and Maureen
Wheeler needed for the
WRITERS trip of a lifetime – across
Europe and Asia overland
to Australia. It took several
months, and at the end –
broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and
stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne,
Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and
writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do
three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
REGIS ST LOUIS RAY BARTLETT
Regis grew up in a small town in the American Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades,
Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tanzania, Guatemala,
of travel – and he developed an early fascination Indonesia, and many parts of the United States to life
with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers,
his formative years learning Russian and a handful and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets
of Romance languages, which served him well of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review
on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs
contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango
covering destinations across six continents. His dancer. He currently divides his time between homes
travels have taken him from the mountains of in the USA, Japan, and Mexico.
Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia,
and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on
the road, he lives in New Orleans.
MORE WRITERS
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