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MUSIC BEAUTY EDITOR’S LETTER BY JUNE CAROLYN ERLICK The Diversity of Beauty I remember so vividly the first time someone called me “gordita.” It was while I traveled VOLUME XVI NO.3 on a clumsily converted cattle boat pitching in the waves from Cuba to Canada in 1970. I was David Rockefeller Center for Latin American Studies seasick all the time. Yet I remember the emotion of shock at that word more than I recall how CELEBRATING THE LIFE I felt about my sickness. Of course, I know now that the Cuban who called me “gordita” meant AND LEGACY OF DAVID ROCKEFELLER “my little pleasantly plump friend” and probably wanted to console me. I heard “fatty.” I cried. Director Ironically, I’ve always felt a bit more in home in Latin America than in the United States Brian Farrell because I’m five feet tall and well, maybe, a little pleasantly plump. So when Álvaro Jarrin and Executive Director I started to put together this issue of beauty, I was perhaps just a little bit surprised about how Ned Strong many people wanted to change things about themselves: their noses, breasts, muscles, skin color, hair, weight and even ethnicity. I was not alone. ReVista I cheered when Alicia Machado, a former Miss Universe and telenovela actress, fought back Editor-in-Chief when now-President Donald Trump insulted her about her weight—and battled again when the June Carolyn Erlick candidate did it again via Twitter. That would certainly lose him the election, I thought. Copy Editor If North Americans are held to an impossible beauty standards, Latin Americans are often Anita Safran served a double whammy, since their standards are often determined by the tall blonde North Publication Interns American ones. And just as I’ll never be tall and skinny, Latin American forms of beauty are cer- Isabel Espinosa Sylvie Stoloff tainly their own—a fact that is increasingly recognized and celebrated. Of course, Latin America is known for its beauty contests and famously stunning actress- Design Jane Simon Design es—think Sofia Vergara, Sonia Braga, Salma Hayek and Dolores del Rio. And those beauty contests and movie roles helped shaped standards and images other than the skinny blonde. Printer P+R Publications Beauty is a fact of everyday life in Latin America, from the manicures (for both men and women), the stylish clothes (I often wondered how Colombian university students could make Contact Us 1730 Cambridge Street jeans seem so very elegant), and the infinite varieties of hair care. A recent article in The New Cambridge, MA 02138 York Times recounted that a local singer in Northeast Brazil subsidized trips to the beauty Telephone: 617-495-5428 parlor for parents of Zika babies, intended as a source of comfort for stressed mothers. Subscriptions, Back Copies and Comments Beauty is business, goods and services that urge people to keep on purchasing. Yet the jerlick@fas.harvard.edu quest for some idealized type of beauty is not just a matter of vanity or even identity for many Website Latin Americans; it’s a ticket to a better job, a hope for higher class status or an investment in a revista.drclas.harvard.edu beauty contest or, more unfortunately, a position in the drug trade. Facebook Not too long ago in Bucaramanga, Colombia, a school nurse fretted to me that a lot of her ReVista, the Harvard Review of Latin America poorest students were refusing to eat (she didn’t use the word “anorexia”) because they hoped Copyright © 2017 by the President and to be chosen for a reality show and make a lot of money. Fellows of Harvard College. The articles in this issue cover a wide range of topics, showing how Latin Americans have ISSN 1541—1443 been shaped by concepts of beauty and, in turn, have shaped those concepts. Beauty often ReVista is printed on recycled stock. implies conformity, but as you will see in these pages, it is also resistance. It is the power of an indigenous beauty queen who speaks out against massacres. It is the dignity of the elegantly dressed cholitas who remind us that beauty is not just skinny and white. It is the effort of those held in clandestine jail cells to maintain their humanness through fashion shows. I’ve long been fascinated by the subject of beauty in Latin America, yet it took the knowl- This issue of ReVista is made possible edge, inspiration, collaboration and dogged work of Álvaro Jarrin, a professor at Holy Cross through generous support of College who specializes in beauty-related topics, for the two of us to create this issue of Santander Universities Global Division. ReVista. A special thanks to you, Álvaro, for making this ReVista what it is! 2 ReVista SPRING 2017 PHOTO BY
HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AMERICA SPRING 2017 VOLUME XVI NO. 3 Published by the David Rockefeller Center for Latin American Studies Harvard University Top of the page photos clockwise from top left by: Ricardo Bohorquez, Yayo Lopez, Luis Miranda BEAUTY FIRST TAKE BUILDING BRIDGES The Politics of Beauty by Alvaro Jarrin 2 Wolf Chase in Chaco by Rebecca Greenberg 73 BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY Globalizing Latin American Beauty by Geoffrey Jones 10 BOOK TALK The Culture of Skinniness by Lucrecia Ramírez Restrepo 15 Design and Natural Resource Extraction Should I Eat the Chocolate Cake? by Renée S. Scott 17 A Review by Anthony Bebbington 74 Beauty Weighs in Argentina by Melissa Maldonado-Salcedo 21 Democracy and Party-Building A Review by Scott Mainwaring 76 BEAUTY IN TIMES OF REPRESSION The Borders of Dominicanidad Mayan Queens by Rodrigo Abd 24 A Review by Pedro Reina-Pérez 78 Maya Queens at the Microphone by Betsy Konefal 26 Beauty in Places of Horror by Barbara Sutton 29 Beasts and Beauty in Colombia by Michael Stanfield 33 MASCULINITY AND BEAUTY Peruvian Beauty by Norma Fuller 38 ONLINE Technologies of Gender by Lauren E. Gulbas 41 Look for more content online at Building Muscles in Rio’s Fitness Clubs by Cesar Sabino 44 revista.drclas.harvard.edu CHOLITAS AND BEYOND Cholitas: The Revenge of a Generation by Delphine Blast 48 The Queen of Sheep by Cristina García Navas 52 Peruvian Pishtacos by Caroline Yezer 54 Performing Race and Gender in the Andes by Mary Elena Wilhoit 56 BLACK IS BEAUTIFUL ON THE COVER Blackness and Beauty in Ecuador By O. Hugo Benavides 60 BEAUTY Contesting Beauty by Elizabeth Hordge-Freeman 66 © Delphine Blast I hanslucas Sensual Not Beautiful by Jasmine Mitchell 70 www.delphineblast.com REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 1
FIRST TAKE The Politics of Beauty By ALVARO JARRIN 2 ReVista SPRING 2017 PHOTO BY YAYO LÓPEZ/OJOS PROPIOS/ILAS, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY PORTRAIT IN LIMA HISTORICAL CENTER, PHOTO1993 BY
BEAUTY WHEN ONE TALKS TO PEOPLE IN LATIN were delighted with the results. Although she was willing to endure any sacrifices. AMERICA about beauty, it is never simply Solange realized that she would have to go Echoing the poet Vinicius de Moraes, she about vanity, self-care or individual through many hoops, and she would be said that “beauty is fundamental,” but consumption. Beauty in Latin America one more name on a very long waiting list, she added a very practical reason for its always seems to have larger implications, inducing hopes for upward mobility, invoking national ideals of beauty, or even suggesting beauty as a standard for citizenship. To observers of Latin America, beauty can tell us much about this region’s ongoing inequalities and the way the body’s attractiveness, or lack of it, acquires sociopolitical meanings. Let me begin, however, with the story of Solange, whom I met at the reception area of a public hospital in Belo Horizonte, Brazil. Solange (I’m not using her real name to protect confidentiality) In Latin America, beauty has so much meaning to women because it is a bodily sign that condenses the race, class and gender inequalities they deal with on a daily basis, a “dictatorship of beauty” that determines which bodies have value and which bodies do not. was there to see if her nose job would be finally approved by the medical team that oversaw plastic surgery procedures. She told me that having a different nose was a dream of hers since she was a teenager, but until recently she had believed plastic surgery was a luxury only the wealthy could afford. A few months ago, however, she had been encouraged to seek out this hospital by two friends of hers who also worked in retail. Those two friends had been able to get approval for a free breast lift and a free tummy tuck, fully covered by the universal healthcare system, and Gisele Bündchen; PHOTO WIKIPEDIA COMMONS REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 3
BEAUTY Left: Mariquita Palma Nonones, el Guayabo, Ica, Peru, 2016. Right: Bertha Javier Durand, Huancayo, Junin, Peru, 2016. importance, “in this country, one needs she might be able to find a better job than obstruct her respiratory airways. The a good appearance to find good jobs.” retail sales, which paid very little. surgeon told Solange that the tomography It did not bother her, she assured me, When Solange’s name was called, she results by themselves were not enough that she would be studied by the medical allowed me to witness the consultation evidence to justify the surgery, but if residents who carried out surgeries at she had with a young plastic surgeon, she consistently complained of difficulty this hospital, because it represented still completing his medical residency. breathing through her nose, he could her small contribution towards making She handed over an envelope with the get her an expedited approval—her Brazilian plastic surgery “number one in results of a tomography this doctor had story had to remain consistent when she the world.” With her new, slimmer nose, requested during a previous visit, and booked a time for the surgery, and when Solange claimed, she would suffer less which confirmed that Solange had a very she checked in at the hospital. A little discrimination while seeking work, and slightly deviated septum, which did not while later the surgeon explained to me 4 ReVista SPRING 2017 PHOTOS BY YAYO LÓPEZ/OJOS PROPIOS/ILAS, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY
FIRST TAKE Left: Alicia Huamán Quisani, Chinchero, Cuzco, Peru, 2016; Right: Elizabeth Ramos Durand, Huaro, Cuzco,Peru, 2016. that Brazil’s universal healthcare system to perform the aesthetic surgeries that pursuit of beauty. When one talks to would only cover plastic surgeries that were valuable in private medical practice. patients and to surgeons, however, two addressed a demonstrated health need, Solange’s case was valuable to him because different explanations emerge for why but aesthetic surgeries were routinely it would allow him to learn how to do beauty matters. Low-income patients approved by relabeling them as medically corrective surgery on what he described like Solange invariably invoke “good necessary reconstructive surgeries. If the as a “negroid nose,” a condition that he appearance” as central to any hope of hospital administrators were aware of this said was typical among the racially-mixed upward mobility in society—beauty informal practice, they turned a blind eye Brazilian population. is imagined as providing new job to it, because they knew it was important In Brazil, the interests of low-income opportunities, opening doors that were for patients who desired beauty and for patients and surgeons-in-training formerly closed, and guaranteeing, in medical residents who needed to learn intersect on the operating table in the general, that a person will be treated REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 5
BEAUTY Left: Doña Ursula, Ursula Ventura Chapoñan, Mórrope, Lambayeque, Peru, 2015; Right: Jhaine Huamán Pulquín, La Jalca Grande, Amazonas, Peru, 2015. fairly in society. The concern for beauty in grueling jobs. In Brazil, as in general their discipline has a larger, loftier goal allows these patients to complain about in Latin America, beauty has so much of improving the Brazilian population. the many ways they feel Brazilian society meaning to women because it is a bodily The plastic surgeons I interviewed in treats people differently based on their sign that condenses the race, class and Brazil believe beauty standards to be appearance—beauty’s blessings seem to gender inequalities they deal with on universal, to be objectively verifiable, and simply be bestowed on the rich, but are a daily basis, a “dictatorship of beauty” to have meaning not only for individuals denied to those with wider noses, those that determines which bodies have value but for the nation as a whole. They with ugly teeth, those women whose labor and which bodies do not. Plastic surgery imagine their surgical prowess as able as mothers take a toll on their bodies, seems an acceptable risk in comparison to fix the “mistakes” caused by too much or those workers whose bodies are to the abject threat of ugliness. racial mixture in Brazil, and they exalt marked by the long hours spent per day For plastic surgeons, on the other hand, women with clear European ancestry, 6 ReVista SPRING 2017 PHOTO BY YAYO LÓPEZ/OJOS PROPIOS/ILAS, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY
Left: Lizbeth Quizpe, Chinchero, Cuzco, Peru, 2016; Right: Luanda del Carmen Palma Ballumbrosio. El Carmen, Ica, Peru, 2016. like the supermodel Gisele Bündchen, Brazilian population. It was this eugenic surgery. as beauty ideals for all Brazilian women. legacy within plastic surgery that allowed I expand on this theme in my The desire for whiteness expressed by the most famous plastic surgeon in Brazil, forthcoming book, The Biopolitics plastic surgeons is not accidental—plastic Ivo Pitanguy, to argue that the poor of Beauty, but my purpose here in surgery has a long history in Brazil, and should also be granted the gift of beauty, contrasting the surgeons’ medical was first celebrated as a medical tool by and to gain state backing to expand access discourse to patients’ understandings Brazilian eugenicists like Renato Kehl, to plastic surgery within public hospitals. of beauty is to showcase the manifold, who in the early 20th century equated A more beautiful citizenry, the logic went, overlapping meanings of beauty within beautification with hygiene, imagining would be rid of its more ugly, criminal the Latin American landscape. While a future in which racial difference and elements, and plastic surgeons would heal dominant discourses about beauty in ugliness would be eradicated from the the wounds of urban violence through Latin America tend to reassert the region’s REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 7
BEAUTY to keep those aesthetic hierarchies in place, and they do not remain unchallenged. The Afro-Brazilian movement has increasingly made efforts to push for more diversity in the modeling and advertising industries, demanding that black bodies be recognized as beautiful beyond the sexualized stereotype of the mulatta. Indigenous beauty pageants all over the region attempt to recognize not only a different bodily aesthetic but also a new form of belonging in the nation that does not erase their indigenous values or require assimilation into a mestizo majority. Transgender beauty practices in Latin America open up spaces for non-gender normative bodies to claim recognition within highly transphobic societies. Beauty is not simply skin deep, but is rather a more profound negotiation of the boundary between those who can claim to be ideal citizens and those who are still regarded as second-class citizens. The articles in this issue of ReVista will The tension, between a rigid beauty and an unruly address the myriad meanings of beauty in several Latin American countries, and will beauty, and the messy grey areas in between, is what tackle a wide variety of topics, including makes studying beauty in Latin America such a but not limited to beauty pageants, plastic surgery, masculinity, afro-aesthetics, complex but fascinaitng endeavor. trans beauty practices, the cosmetic industry, eating disorders and the political race, class and gender hierarchies, Beauty is a political project in Brazil, meanings of fat. June Carolyn Erlick and especially those backed by the knowledge and I would argue it is a political project I sought contributors that were attuned of “experts” like plastic surgeons, the in all of Latin America. The body’s to the ways that race, gender, class and on-the-ground experiences of what is aesthetic value becomes the battleground nation are intertwined in the production beautiful or attractive are always more upon which citizenship is crafted. The and performance of beauty, and which unruly and more complex, because they modeling, advertising and beauty understood beauty as a window into larger are shaped by popular culture and local, pageant industries, for instance, have political and social processes. Beauty has immediate understandings of beauty. long reproduced unrealistic standards only recently become a scholarly object of The very same plastic surgery, such as of beauty in Latin America that do not inquiry in Latin American studies, and the Solange’s nose job, can be simultaneously reflect the region’s diversity—pick up any topic is fertile for more than one issue, described as a form of empowerment fashion magazine or look at any television but we hope that this collection begins an and disempowerment, because it gives ad or televised beauty pageant anywhere important conversation regarding why, as Solange a reason to fight her experience in Latin America, and it is light-skinned Vinicius de Moraes and Solange claimed, of racial discrimination in the job market, men and women who dominate those beauty is fundamental. but also allows her plastic surgeon to spaces, while indigenous and black reassert that “negroid noses” are by features remain conspicuously absent. Alvaro Jarrín is Assistant Professor definition inferior and in need of surgical In Brazil, modeling scouts specifically of Anthropology at College of the Holy correction. This tension, between a rigid hunt for new talents in the regions of the Cross. His research focuses on Brazilian beauty and an unruly beauty, and the country that were populated by German medicine and its relationship to sociopo- messy grey areas in between, is what and Polish immigrants, assuming white litical understandings of the body. His makes studying beauty in Latin America beauty is inherently superior and “sells” book, The Biopolitics of Beauty, will be such a complex but fascinating endeavor. products locally and abroad. It takes work published this summer. 8 ReVista SPRING 2017 PHOTO, ABOVE, LUIS MIRANDA/OJOS PROPIOS/ILAS, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY. OPPOSITE PAGE, CARLOS SEBASTIÁN.
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY Geoffrey Jones Globalizing Latin American Beauty • Lucrecia Ramírez Restrepo The Culture of Skinniness Renée S. Scott Should I Eat the Chocolate Cake? • Melissa Maldonado-Salcedo Beauty Weighs in Argentina REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 9
BEAUTY Globalizing Latin American Beauty The Making of a Giant Business By GEOFFREY JONES BEAUTY SEEMS TO MATTER A LOT IN LATIN Imagined, every known human society in America. Whenever I arrive in the region The whiteness of history has used beauty products. Human I am struck by the disproportionate preferences for adornment and cosmetics number of attractive and stylish women the emergent Latin were in part shaped by religious beliefs and men who seem to be just walking American beauty and prevailing medical knowledge. More around. I am always even more taken fundamentally, consumption was probably aback by airport bookstalls crammed with culture was evident driven by biological desires to attract and magazines devoted to plastic surgery and in beauty contests, in reproduce. Throughout history, beauty the celebration of all things beautiful. And products were made in people’s homes, or then there are the countless posters and which pale skins were in small batches by craftsmen. Most people billboards advertising beauty accessible exclusively featured. had neither time nor money to devote to to all. beauty. Beauty was also a local matter— There is plenty of less anecdotal standards of beauty varied enormously evidence too that beauty is big business. among geographies, as well as over time. According to the industry database The advent of modern industry and Euromonitor, Brazil is now the fourth modern marketing in the 19th century biggest market for beauty products in the changed everything. Beauty became a world, after the United States, China and business. Skin creams, cosmetics and Japan. Mexico was ranked seventh and perfumes began to be made in factories. Argentina sixteenth. Chemistry replaced natural ingredients. Even more telling is per capita Advances in understanding the chemistry spending. Brazilian spending on beauty of scent enabled the creation of synthetic products is $148 on an average for each fragrances, transforming the ancient Brazilian, the highest amount in Latin perfume industry in the process. America. That of Argentina and Chile is Entrepreneurs created brands. They came just a few dollars less. Although individual up with attractive packaging. They secured Americans and Europeans spend more, endorsements from celebrities. Emotional Latin Americans stand out among associations were built around products emerging markets as spenders on beauty. which had once been functional. Brands Thais, South Africans and Russians spend offered hope in a jar. well under half the amount of Argentines, The modern industry was born in Brazilians and Chileans. Chinese spend In the popular media, the apparent the rich industrialized world of Western three-quarters less. Indians spend less than Latin American fascination with beauty Europe and the United States. As it grew it one percent than people do in these three is regularly ascribed to culture. Latin incorporated the values and norms of those Latin American countries. sensuousness, cults of body worship societies. Beauty became associated with It is not just lipstick, fragrance and in tropical climates, and machismo Western appearances with Paris and New other cosmetic products. Brazil, Mexico, expectations about female appearance York as aspirational global beauty capitals. Colombia and Argentina regularly feature are regularly mentioned. The conservative The features of white people were hailed as in the top ten countries for cosmetic and religious nature of much of Latin the global standard of beauty, and others plastic surgery, alongside stalwarts such American society rarely gets a mention, were considered ugly. In the United States, as the United States and South Korea. however. History points to more complex, when beauty contests like Miss America Brazil, which offers a tax reduction for and contingent, explanations. started in the interwar years, African- such surgery, is a world leader in breast Let me begin with the obvious: Latin Americans (and other ethnicities like Jews) implants and liposuction. Latin Americans America was not the home of the modern were excluded. Beauty was gendered also. are associated with a range of beauty beauty industry, nor of plastic surgery. Reflecting hardening gender identities in enhancements, from the “Brazilian wax” As I explained in my book on the history the 19th century, beauty products became to “jeans Colombianos.” of the global beauty industry, Beauty associated with women rather than men, 10 ReVista SPRING 2017 ALL PHOTOS THIS STORY COURTESY OF HAGLEY ARCHIVES.
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY which was never the case historically. radio serials in the United States. It proved The modern beauty industry, an effective tool to grow the market for along with its underlying ideological toiletries in Latin America. The same firm assumptions, was brought to Latin sponsored the first radionovela in Brazil America by European and U.S. firms. in 1941. The advent of television during Only a handful of urban dwellers had the 1950s provided a new medium. A incomes and lifestyles sufficient to buy pioneering Mexican telenovela, which such imported brands. Nineteenth- became such a distinctive Latin American century prudery and association cultural genre, came in 1958, when of cosmetics with immorality also Televisa’s Canal 4 showed the Colgate- restricted markets. However affluent Palmolive- sponsored Senda prohibida. Buenos Aires, whose citizens famously As everywhere, U.S. and European imagined themselves as located in firms only celebrated white beauty. Europe, became a magnet for French The whiteness of the emergent Latin fragrance and cosmetic houses before American beauty culture was evident in World War I. beauty contests, in which pale skins were In most of Latin America, however, exclusively featured. The first national low incomes and prevailing ethics Brazilian beauty contest was held in meant that toilet soap and toothpaste, 1921, only three weeks after the first not color cosmetics, were the first products Miss America, though it was judged U.S. and European firms introduced to entirely on the basis of photographs. the region. Unilever, based in Britain and The second contest in 1929 appointed a the Netherlands, began making toilet soap Miss Brazil to represent the country at in São Paulo in Brazil in 1930, and the a Miss Universe contest held in Texas business began selling toothpaste in 1939. that year, and the final round included Western multinationals made markets taking the state winners through and created consumer desires—they did Rio de Janeiro streets, before being not respond to a pent-up demand for judged in Brazil’s largest stadium. cosmetic adornment. Marketing strategies The participants and winners were all were skillfully adjusted to local conditions. white. The winner in the first contest In Brazil women seldom read newspapers, had an Italian father. the traditional medium used elsewhere The privileging of whiteness was by Unilever for advertising. So the firm the norm of the global beauty industry, switched to the more popular medium but it aligned well with the deep-seated of radios. Latin American women racism throughout Latin America, as were enticed with the opportunity to well as specific historical trends of the emulate the latest beauty fashions of the time. There was much discussion about the United States and Europe. American nature of the Brazilian national identity and European models were used in during the interwar years. The social elite advertisements by the big cosmetics aspired to raise the country’s international companies such as Max Factor. status by demonstrating its progress, and However, as Julio Moreno from the that it was becoming more European, University of San Francisco has shown, defined as ethnically white. The judges Ponds cream was advertised using in the 1929 contest included university Mexican celebrities during the 1930s, professors, journalists and politicians, while Colgate-Palmolive, Unilever’s and it was chaired by the president of the U.S. twin, featured famous Mexican Brazilian Academy of Letters. singers such as the Aguilar Sisters on For a long time, Latin Americans its weekly radio program. remained modest consumers of beauty. It was Colgate-Palmolive which Using corporate archives, I have been pioneered the radionovela concept able to guestimate the historical size of in interwar Cuba, drawing on its the industry. In 1950 the world industry promotion of the so-called soap opera was worth about $10 billion in today’s REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 11
BEAUTY dollars—compared to $ 426 billion today. America. An estimated eighty percent of the desirable products at good prices, so The United States was half the entire world lipstick sales in Brazil are made by direct providing them with an attractive earning market. Brazil was a mere three percent, selling. opportunity. It tailored its strategy to although surprisingly this was already Avon was enormously skilled at enticing local circumstances. It invested heavily half the amount of the richer countries of people to buy cosmetics. When it entered in cosmetics education in countries such Britain and France. a new market, it began with acquainting as Venezeula, which at the time used few The real growth of the beauty representatives and customers with the cosmetics. In Brazil, as historian Shawn market came later in the 20th century. Avon line. It provided representatives with Moura has shown, Avon responded Multinational companies drove to prevailing gender norms which market growth. U.S. and European disapproved of women working outside companies devoted increasing the home with a campaign to portray direct attention to Latin America. The selling as a respectable activity akin to region had high tariff barriers, but marriage. It also created a new accounting most countries allowed foreign firms system in response to escalating inflation to manufacture and sell locally. This rates during the 1960s. Avon took a lead in was in big contrast to most of Asia using ethnicities with a range of skin tones and Africa, where multinational in its advertisements. In the United States, firms were unwelcome, or entirely the firm was a pioneer in using African- blocked as in Communist China. Americans in advertisements from 1966 The giants of the U.S. cosmetic onwards, though it was not until 1970 industry, whose marketing and that the first Afro-Latinos appeared advertising expertise had built a in advertisements in Brazil. Avon did, huge domestic market, spread over however, recruit darker skinned Brazilians the subcontinent. Revlon opened as sales representatives much earlier. its first foreign factory in Mexico in Latin Americans were educated and 1948. The German hair care company enticed to buy cosmetics, then, by firms Wella started manufacturing in Chile which had honed their skills in marketing in 1952, Brazil in 1954, Argentina in and business operations in advanced 1957, and in Mexico in 1961. economies. They evidently found willing The most important corporate consumers, but this was at least as much actor was Avon, the company which owing to the region’s high levels of pioneered direct selling of cosmetics income and ethnic inequality than in the United States. In 1954, Avon, whose to alleged body cultures or Latin only previous international operation sensuousness. As incomes rose, had been in Canada, opened a new growing numbers of urban middle manufacturing business in Puerto Rico. class, overwhelmingly white rather Over the following decade manufacturing than indigenous or Afro-Latino, and selling operations were started in had money to spend on consumer Venezuela, Cuba, Mexico and Brazil. Direct products beyond essentials. Beauty selling was perfect for Latin America. In products were not big ticket items; most countries, there were few department they delivered instant pleasure; stores and only fragmented retail channels. and they were closely associated Direct selling by sales representatives with the aspirational glamor and enabled Avon to reach women in their economic success of the United workplaces and homes. States and Europe, to which so By 1960 Avon had secured strong many urban Latin Americans were market positions in many countries, attracted. including Venezuela, where it controlled Over time, as the beauty half of the cosmetics market. Even today business became established, it nearly one-third of all beauty sales in also acquired a life of its own. Latin America are made through direct Beauty salons and institutes sales, compared to five percent in Western flourished. The beauty industry, Europe and less than ten percent in North although rightly condemned 12 ReVista SPRING 2017
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY a medical school. In the United States, the firm was a pioneer in Brazil in particular saw a cluster of local beauty companies formed with health using African-Americans in advertisements from and sustainability concerns. O Boticário 1966 onwards, though it was not until 1970 that the was founded in 1977 by Bolivian-born Miguel Krigsner as a small pharmacy in first Afro-Latinos appeared in advertisements in the city of Curitiba in the state of Paraná. Brazil. Avon did, however, recruit darker skinned Krigsner’s vision was to provide a pleasant environment where people felt good Brazilians as sales representatives much earlier. about themselves. The original shop had a carpeted room with seating and coffee by feminists and others for imposing industry came to serve as one avenue for for those who wanted to wait while their restrictive ideals of beauty on women and women to enter the workforce and earn prescriptions were made up. Krisgner making them constantly dissatisfied, was incomes was not the only paradox in the quickly got into cosmetics. In 1979 he also a means out of poverty for many Latin Latin American industry. In some respects, opened his brand’s first exclusive shop American women. They could earn extra the industry became as associated with at Curitiba airport, selling perfume and income as direct sales representatives or by wellness as with cosmetic adornment. cosmetics. Within a few years, the small manicuring nails in tiny salons. Meanwhile The levels of cosmetic plastic surgery pharmacy had grown to into a big business winning a beauty contest became the seen today in the region may justifiably with 4,000 franchised shops in Brazil equivalent to winning the lottery. Beauty be seen as obsessive, as well as frequently targeting the upper-middle segments of pageants became big business. As dangerous because of the large informal the market through eco-friendly products. television came to the sub-continent, they and illegal component of that industry, In 1990, the firm established a non-profit attracted good audiences, so television but the origins were more benign. Ivo organization to preserve the natural companies invested in promoting them. Pitanguy, the founder of the Brazilian environment. The Pomona College historian Miguel industry, earned the respect of his fellow Social and environmental responsibility Tinker-Salas has linked the advent of citizens by providing his skills free of was a principal concern of what became Venezuela’s large beauty industry to the charge to victims of a disaster when a huge the largest Latin American beauty growth of the Cisneros business group, circus tent burned hundreds of spectators company. Natura was established in 1969 the owner of the Venevision channel, from in the city of Niteroi in 1961. Pitanguy was by Antonio Luiz da Cunha Seabra as a the 1980s. a passionate believer in trying to counter small laboratory and cosmetics store in the The self-reinforcing nature of the “the stigma of deformity.” Although he city of São Paulo. The company adopted beauty industry is evident in Venezuela, built a well-renowned celebrity business, a direct selling model in 1974. Guilherme whose citizens became frequent winners over the following decades he continued Leal and Pedro Passos later joined the of international beauty contests. Avon and to offer his staff and services free of charge business, forming an unusual three-man Venevision may have created the industry, to less well-off patients one day a week. leadership, which the company asserted but over time a whole infrastructure Quite a number of the locally owned represented its soul, mind and body. developed to prepare young women cosmetics firms which began to appear Natura’s direct selling business was a for contests through enhancing their in the region had an early and persistent beneficiary of the so-called “lost decade” appearances, often through surgery or commitment to sustainability, health of the 1980s, as many retailers collapsed, hormones, public speaking skills, and and societal concerns. An early example while Natura was able to recruit thousands much else. Venezuelan plastic surgeons was in Colombia. Labfarve laboratories of female sales representatives who needed became world experts in a procedure was founded in 1971 by Jorge Piñeros a source of income. By 2005, when the firm known as Boom Boom, which injected a Corpas, a prominent Colombian doctor went public with an IPO, it had revenues woman’s own fat into her buttocks to make and scientist, who initially sought to of $1.5 billion and employed 480,000 sales them bigger. The chances of appearing, make more affordable medicines for the consultants throughout the country. By and succeeding, in television reality shows poorer sections of society using plants and 2017 it had 1.6 billion consultants in Brazil. were said to have driven young women to traditional practices, sourcing ingredients Seabra and his colleagues were at the steal to pay for operations. The rewards for from the peoples of the Amazon. The forefront of social and environmental winners were dazzling, for careers opened company soon diversified into cosmetics responsibility. In contrast to the perceived up for them as models and television and has made multiple innovations, stereotypes of Brazilian body-worshipping, presenters, and even occasionally in including developing a natural Botox from Natura criticized exploitative advertising politics. an extract of the acmella plant. The wider and exaggerated promises. In 1992 the The fact that the postwar beauty Corpas Group now includes a hospital and company launched the concept of “The REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 13
BEAUTY Truly Beautiful Woman” which asserted that beauty was not a matter of age but of self-esteem. This was more than a decade before Unilever’s much-hyped Dove campaign which featured pictures of seniors, larger women and other unconventional beauty models. Natura was also concerned with the use of sustainable methods and ingredients. In 2000 the company launched the Ekos brand, made from Brazilian biodiversity products in a sustainable way. In 2007 it was a founding member of the non-profit Union for Ethical Bio-Trade. Leal, one of the partners, was personally prominent in the Brazilian section of the World Wildlife Fund, and even stood as the Green Party vice-presidential candidate in Marina Silva’s unsuccessful campaign in 2010. In 2014 the firm became the largest (by then it had sales of $2.6 billion), and first publicly traded company, to obtain B Corp certification, designed to encourage the highest standards of environmental and social stewardship and transparency in business. Latin America was not preordained by a stereotyped culture to be a temple of beauty. The industry grew at a specific time, and was shaped in a specific way by corporate actors. Its impact was as contradictory as the region itself. It imposed restrictive notions of beauty on generations of women, almost certainly intensified rather than challenged racism, and created cultures in which breast implants and buttocks injections were the societal norm. It peddled unrealistic dreams. Yet it was also an industry which provided income to hundreds of thousands of people, primarily women. And it provided the setting for some of the region’s (and indeed the world’s) most socially and environmentally progressive companies to flourish. Geoffrey Jones is Isidor Straus Professor of Business History at the Harvard Busi- ness School. His books include Beauty Imagined (Oxford University Press, 2010). His most recent book, Profits and Sustainability:A History of Green Entre- preneurship (Oxford University Press), will be published this spring. 14 ReVista SPRING 2017 PHOTO BY JUNE CAROLYN ERLICK.
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY The Culture of Skinniness. Skinny, Pretty...and Happy?”. Combating Anorexia and Bulimia in Medellín. By LUCRECIA RAMÍREZ RESTREPO ROSARIO IS 21 YEARS OLD AND A PERFECT SIZE 6. ropean concept of beauty with very skinny A fifth-semester student in international models. All these fashion-related events ex- business in Medellín, Colombia, she’s often erted much pressure over the city’s women. thought of herself as fat. It all started when Many felt the need to combine thinness and she was a child, and her parents encour- voluptuosity, as well as fitness—an impos- aged her to lose weight the healthy way— sible task from the perspective of health. through diet, exercise and good nutrition— Women found it necessary to use extreme so she wouldn’t become overweight as an practices as starvation, exercise until ex- adult since the tendency ran in her family. haustion, laxatives and plastic surgery. But those paths didn’t seem to work for As the number of cases raised dra- her. As she approached her teens, she hated matically, the city began a project for the her body; she would measure her waist, prevention of Eating Disorders known as arms and hips after each and every shower. “Skinny, Pretty...and Happy?” in 1997. This She finally discovered vomiting—which we program focused on gender equity and the know more technically as bulimia. Then development of economic, social and cul- came diet pills and laxatives. When she tural rights of women as a way of struggling turned sixteen, she convinced her par- against objectification and dependence on ents to finance liposuction and breast en- physical appearance. largement. But it was a constant battle to The program began in the Women’s maintain her weight: two hours daily of Mental Health Academic Group in the exercise, pills and starvation. A classmate Psychiatric Department at the University died of what some said was anorexia—self- of Antioquia, and in the government of the induced starvation. But despite the shadow of Antioquia (Hospital San Vincent de civic movement Compromiso Ciudadano of a possibly dangerous eating disorder, Paul)—were considered “exotic.” Two fac- led by Mayor Sergio Fajardo (2004-2007). Rosario kept up her regimen to keep her tors came into play: drug trafficking and The program was incorporated in the pro- figure—to please her family and boyfriend the development of Medellín as a fashion grammatic line “women’s development,” and to compete with classmates. center, both of which fostered the ideal of which brought together civil society or- Rosario is a composite figure of the extreme thinness, but at the same time ganizations. young women we see on a daily basis at our sexiness and fitness. The entire intervention had three stag- outpatient psychiatric clinic in Medellín. The irruption of narcotrafficking at the es: first with comprehension of the problem Body image is not just a passing concern beginning of the ‘80s in Medellín meant (1999-2003), then with implementation of of adolescents: it affects women (and to a very deep and traumatic political, so- the program (2004-2007), and finally with a much lesser degree, men) in terms of cial and cultural change and fracture in extensive evaluation (2008). self-worth, relationships, sexuality, human our society. Drug kings sought to express In order to understand the scope of the development and even productivity. It’s not their “new power” by buying whatever they problem, two studies looked at the issue, just that Rosario invested time and money wanted: in particular, beautiful women, the first one in 1999, in which almost 1,000 in staying very thin; that’s time and energy in the style of the voluptuous Pamela An- high school girls from five elite schools she could have spent on her studies and derson and the like, associated with the were enrolled in workshops, conversation personal enrichment. American beauty of those times. Women programs with parents, and lectures. The The pressures generally come from were exhibited as trophies. A little later, one University of Antioquia study found that three sources: mass media, parents and the projects that the Medellín establish- 77 percent of the girls were horrified at the schoolmates. It wasn’t always this way. ment came up with was the presentation idea of gaining weight; 41 percent indulged During the 1980s and until the mid-90s, of the city as the Milan of Latin America, in binge eating; 33 percent felt guilty after cases of anorexia and bulimia at our clin- creating a Fashion Show and three fairs eating; 16 percent felt that food controlled ic—attached to the prestigious University that featured beauty along the lines of a Eu- their lives; 8 percent reported self-induced REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 15
BEAUTY vomiting. The school study sounded the or appreciation and more in the context of alarm about the severity of eating disorders self-worth. There’s an emphasis placed on in Medellín, but it certainly wasn’t a rep- kindness and self-development, as well as resentative study because it included only beauty. But that’s far from suggesting that the schools that had called to participate. the problem has gone away. A second, more comprehensive study Femininity is still closely associated in 2003 using a representative sample of with beauty, so now you’ll hear phrases adolescent students, found that in Medel- like “I want to be a great professional, but lín, 33 percent of them were at increased not give up being feminine in the process” risk for eating disorders. The study found or “I want to be my own person, but also that the risk was not related to how wealthy to be seen as beautiful by others.” In ad- or poor the girls were or type of school, temporary capacities and what it means dition, women still see appearance as a public or private, mixed or feminine. The for a 21st- century woman to be accepted key to getting a good job or getting ahead prevalence of the illness estimated those at in society. in general. Today, in the 21st century, de- high risk to be 31 percent. That compared Finally, a citizens’ network for social spite all the interventions and progress, with 5 percent in Spain and 10.2 percent responsibility was created from health in- the culture is giving its (young) women in the United States at the time. The study stitutions, universities, gyms, schools, local this message: “It doesn’t matter how in- also confirmed the previously described television and print media, dance acad- telligent, capable, honest, hard-working, risk factors as bullying or teasing about emies, modeling agencies and artists, to collaborative, compassionate,. attentive weight issues, previous obesity or obesity in make them aware of the role they might and diligent you are...if you are not pretty, the family, and negative comments (some- play in fomenting (or preventing) eating you’re worthless....whatever effort you put times well-intentioned) by friends or family disorders and introduce structural changes into being beautiful is justified because members about body appearance. in their own businesses in order to contrib- in this way we guarantee your inclusion, Then, the program used three main ute to decrease the social pressure on the recognition and opportunities.” strategies, to go beyond direct work with idea that women have to be skinny to be Beauty continues to be seen as thin- adolescents. The idea was to make the en- desirable, recognized and happy. ness. Interviews with adolescents reveal vironment more friendly to diverse body The project, for example, resulted in a a lack of consensus about the marketing types and stopping the promotion of the rule that models had to undergo a nutri- of skinniness. Some observe they have ideal of skinniness. tional evaluation before they could partici- role models in fashion or television who First, a continuous two-year public pate in the 2007 fashion fair Colombiamo- are far from thin; they even observe that health campaign used television, radio, da. The Institute for Exports and Fashion pleasantly plump is becoming fashionable. newspapers and ads plastered on billboards (Inexmoda) developed the regulations with But many others insist that social pressure in the city (roads, metro stations, bus stops) the support of the network of eating dis- makes them want to be thin at any cost. to denounce the skinniness culture. Catchy order activists. Since these fashion icons This variety of opinions is a little bit images showed strange-looking “skinny” provide role models for teenagers, the in- of progress. The model of prevention of elephants, rhinos and zebras, with the cap- stitute banned models with extremely low eating disorders developed by the city of tion, “It looks weird, right?…and you, how body mass index (BMI, the proportion of Medellín was innovative because it starts do you look?” Later, in the phase of social fat to height and weight). This rule—an with the premise that these disturbances awareness, the text of the billboard warned, act of social responsibility—represented are profoundly rooted in the ideas societies “Hey! Be careful!, The skinniness culture a powerful acknowledgment that fashion hold about women. In the end, after ten has fomented anorexia and bulimia, a so- plays a significant part in establishing what years of combating the thin beauty ideal, cially contagious illness.” Later, in the re- is beautiful. In the sector of fitness clubs, the rates of developing eating disorders sistance phase, captions declared, “Even if Bodytech, a national chain, eliminated all have dropped when social pressures over the skinniness culture is powerful, there is photos of abnormally thin women, substi- women’s body appearance has been re- no such power greater than the resistance tuting more normal and diverse women as duced. There’s hope for breaking the con- capacity of society.” a sign of a socially responsible attitude for cept of “thin is beautiful, and the thinner, In addition, the educational sector con- women’s life and wellbeing. the better, and beauty leads to happiness.” ducted 273 workshops in 425 high schools, Things are changing slowly, as a care- which worked with 3.294 adult men and ful data-based monitoring process of the Lucrecia Ramírez Restrepo is a clinical women (teachers and parents) through project in 2008 indicated. Adolescents are psychiatrist in Medellín, retired profes- 569 institutional projects they design and now developing an evolving concept of sor at the Psychiatric Department at the implemented, to develop new concepts of femininity. Women are less frequently per- University of Antioquia, who specializes femininity, female beauty, women’s con- ceived just as objects for others’ pleasure in eating disorders. 16 ReVista SPRING 2017 REVISTA ARCHIVES
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY Should I Eat the Chocolate Cake? Weight and Body Image in Latin American Women’s Texts By RENÉE S. SCOTT WHEN PEOPLE LEARN THAT I RESEARCH THE literature (Escritoras uruguayas: una with a blind man. One day her lover representation of food and weight in antología critica, 2002), I came across announces that he plans to seek a cure Latin American women’s literature, they the short story “Inmensamente Eunice” for his blindness. Afraid that once he frequently ask me two questions. (Immensely Eunice, 1999) by Andrea recovers his sight, he will be horrified by The first question is how I became Blanqué. The story is about a fat, her large body, Eunice embarks on various interested in such an untraditional single woman. We read about Eunice’s diets to lose weight. She is successful. topic. The answer goes back to the year challenging job search, because potential At the conclusion of the story, the man 2000, when I was evaluating texts for employers don’t like her size, and also does in fact recovers his sight, but in an an anthology on Uruguayan women’s about her satisfying romantic relationship ironic twist, rejects her new, thin body, REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 17
BEAUTY and thus she loses the affection of the economic and intellectual oppression (2009), most of the fiction works on only man who ever truly paid attention that patriarchal society imposes on women’s weight and eating disorders to her. Blanqué’s text intrigued me, and women in her “Respuesta a Sor Filotea” in Latin America have been written in I began to wonder whether there were (Reply to Sor Philotea, 1691). More Argentina and Mexico, although a few other texts that dealt with contemporary recently, since the 1980s, authors such come from Chile, Guatemala, Puerto society’s obsession with the slender body. as Mexican Laura Esquivel, in her famous Rico and Uruguay. The fact that the As Naomi Wolf proposes so eloquently 1989 novel Como agua para chocolate majority are from Argentina and Mexico in The Beauty Myth (1991), the relentless [Like Water for Chocolate], present is not surprising, considering their large emphasis on women’s physical appearance the kitchen as a self-empowering site, populations and their active feminist can trap them in an endless cycle of where women develop alliances with scenes (organizations, magazines, etc.). insecurity, and self-hatred of their own each other and freely express their own Also, in examining Mexico, we need to bodies, regardless of all the professional subjectivity. Nevertheless, as I found consider the influence of its neighbor, and personal progress that has been out in my search, texts that specifically the United States, which has its own achieved since the women’s liberation address food and weight emerge only in highly feminist sensibilities. Interestingly movement. Even though the use of food the 1990s. A younger generation of female enough, the majority of these texts have and women’s weight in Latin American authors has now turned its attention to yet to be translated into English, or even fictional texts as a tool to criticize the the exclusion and marginalization of the recognized outside the countries where cultural emphasis on thinness is a relative heavier woman, criticizing in its texts they were published, for that matter. new occurrence, the topic of food being current notions of beauty, and proposing The second question I am often asked used to express gender concerns is a feminine identity on their own terms. is if there is even an issue with weight in certainly not new. As early as the 17th- Several writers explore bulimia as well, Latin America. “Don’t Latin American century Mexican writer Sor Juana Inés attesting to more recent social interest men like their women meaty?” is the de la Cruz uses food, and cooking, as an in eating disorders. Thus far, as I posit in common refrain. This question is much expressive device to convey the social, What is Eating Latin American Writers? more complicated to answer than the 18 ReVista SPRING 2017 REVISTA ARCHIVES
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY the aforementioned Como agua para As Naomi Wolf proposes so eloquently in The chocolate, a text that popularized food discourse in Latin America. Set on a Beauty Myth (1991), the relentless emphasis on ranch on the Mexican-U.S. border during women’s physical appearance can trap them in an the Mexican Revolution, the book—a combination of narrative and cooking endless cycle of insecurity, and self-hatred of their recipes—tells the doomed love story of own bodies, regardless of all the professional and Tita de la Garza and Pedro Muzquiz, who cannot marry because according to personal progress that has been achieved since the a family tradition, Tita, as the youngest women’s liberation movement. daughter, must remain single to take care of her aging mother. Pedro marries her older sister Rosaura to stay close to first. The term gordita (fatty) is indeed Tita, and she utilizes the book’s cooking an endearment that men commonly use recipes to prepare delicious and sensual to address their wives, girlfriends and dishes to retain Pedro’s love. Although sisters, suggesting a more accepting the novel vindicates a woman’s role in attitude towards women’s body size. In the kitchen, the representation of its her study of fatness in Caribbean culture female characters reflects dominant and literature, “Así me gustas gordita” (I cultural prejudices. Tita is revealed as a like you plump, 2005), Emily Branden woman of strikingly youthful freshness points out that Latin American men and arresting proportions: “her breasts indeed do appreciate a more voluptuous moved freely, since she never wore a female body. However, the fat they love brassiere, while her sister Rosaura is is concentrated in specific parts of the their countries. Nine out of ten sufferers so fat and grotesque that Pedro would body, specifically large breasts, wide hips, of bulimia and anorexia are women, and rather sleep in another bedroom than and curved rears. And in the study on the Colombian expert commented that in with her.” Clearly, Esquivel’s objective is fatness acceptance, “Que gordita: A Study the city of Medellin, for example, where to accentuate poetic justice by contrasting of Weight Among Women in a Puerto many young girls aspire to be models, the beautiful heroine who is forced to Rican Community,” Emily Massara finds 17% of them suffer from some kind of relinquish the man she loves with the that women think they have a weight- eating disorder. anti-heroine who marries him. And appropriate body if they retain a visible Women today face a cruel conundrum. yet, the notion that only the young and waistline and also associate weight with On the one hand, they are still expected to slender body is attractive to men contrasts fertility and well-being; but Massara’s be the principal providers of nourishment drastically with her attempt to put forth findings are only based on the responses for their families; therefore, they must a feminist narrative. of a group of Puerto Rican immigrants stay close to food. On the other hand, they Afrodita (Aphrodite, 1999), b y living in the Philadelphia area. It is clear, are under constant pressure to manage bestselling author Isabel Allende, is a from reading Latin American magazines their weight in order to be “presentable” light and humorous book of personal and watching television, that the beauty and conform to the physical silhouette anecdotes, literary texts and cooking image consistently promoted in these promulgated by the media and gender recipes that exhorts women to abandon outlets is that of a young, thin woman. The industries. their inhibitions and pursue the pleasures only exception seems to be the archetypal Generational differences appear in of the flesh. Nevertheless, multiple mother, grandmother or trusted maid in the ways various Latin American authors negative references regarding weight, the soap operas, given acceptance as fat approach female size issues. Older writers which go hand in hand with mass and lovable. It is worth noting that the (born in the 1940s and 1950s, before the culture messages, do not conform to the 2011 seminar in Miami “Soy hermosa, social gains of the women’s liberation book’s initial liberated proposal. Allende libre de preocupaciones relacionadas con movement) tend to display a conflictive repeatedly laments not being able to enjoy la comida y mi cuerpo” (I am pretty, free attitude towards appearance and weight, the delicious desserts she includes in the of worries related to food and my body) even as they overtly make a distinctive book because she does not want to gain brought together experts from Colombia, attempt to accept their bodies as they weight. She confesses that she bought sexy Venezuela, El Salvador and the United are. Younger authors (born in the 1960s lingerie “to veil [her] cellulite,” and even States to discuss weight issues and the and later), are more likely to reject social though she believes that licking chocolate sharp increase in eating disorders in norms regarding women’s size. Consider mousse off a lover’s skin is highly sensual, REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU ReVista 19
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