TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020

 
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TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
Johanna Maria Kaleininkas
                            Final Marketing Project
                          Winchester School of Art
                         University of Southampton
                                  Word Count: 7224

TRUE BEAUTY                              4. 06. 2020

  BUSINESS PLAN
      Tallinn, Estonia

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TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
EXECUTIVE
    TABLE
    OF CONTENTS                 SUMMARY
     EXECUTIVE SUMMARY      3   The following project will discuss the current situation in the beauty
                                industry and then go into a business proposal that is based on the wants
                                and needs of today’s consumers. The industry is facing some difficulties
                                due to the COVID-19 pandemic and there are new entrants coming in to the
                                market almost every day. Makeup came in the picture thousands of years
     INTRODUCTION           3   ago, although it was used for body rituals at the time, but the need for
                                expressing oneself through paint is still very relevant. In addition, beauty
                                has now become a multibillion industry and it is still on the rise.
     METHODOLOGY
                            5   The project discusses in depth the new shifts that are disrupting the
                                industry. The biggest trends are challenger brands, genderless beauty,
                                intelligent beauty and clean beauty. The latter is the most recent yet the
                                most powerful one. It rose from conscious consumerism and it is believed
     RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
                            9   that hyper conscious people will start looking into every aspect of their life
                                and make it more sustainable than ever. This means that clean beauty is
                                already on their radar. Clean beauty, however, has many different sides and
                                aspects to it that make it unique. There are endless amount of ingredients,
     BUSINESS PROPOSAL          laws, regulations and terms that all need to be taken into consideration
                           29   when starting a clean beauty brand.

                                The project will end with a business proposal for True Beauty. True Beauty
     CONCLUSION                 is a combination of mainstream and clean beauty, meaning that the
                           79   ingredients are clean, but the pigmentation is like of a mainstream one.
                                The brand vision is to become a market leader in the beauty world, and the
                                mission is to delivery high quality makeup that does not harm the body.
                                The brand stands for diversity and equality and therefore, has an incredible
     REFERENCE LIST
                           80   shade range of 35 colours.

     BIBLIOGRAPHY
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TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
T
               This assignment will investigate, explore and analyse the beauty and
               cosmetics industry. The history of beauty goes back 60 000 years when
               body painting was used for rituals (Watts, 2009, p. 63), however, today
               it is much more than painting your face or body. Now, it is about feeling
               great, not looking great. It is clear that there has been a shift towards
               wellness in beauty, which in turn has created a revolution – clean
               beauty.

               Although “clean”, “non-toxic”, “natural” are loose terms, generally, clean
               beauty refers to products that include natural ingredients (ElBoghdady,
               2020). With consumers keen to reduce their environmental impact
               (Davis, 2019), the clean beauty movement makes sense. Furthermore,
               inclusive beauty is also something that has been praised over the
               recent years. Whether it is gender-neutral, makeup for men or ageless
               beauty – it is clear that beauty for all ages and genders is something
               that consumers want and demand. However, what if clean and all-
               inclusive beauty were combined?

               That is how True Beauty was born – putting clean cosmetics together
               with inclusive beauty. The second part of this report will go over the
               full business proposal for True Beauty and consider all of the aspects of
               starting a new cosmetics brand. The business plan includes the vision,
               market analysis, competitor and customer analysis, product mock-ups,
introduction

               marketing and finance.

               SECTION                                                         01
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TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
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              There are many studies and articles discussing the beauty industry,
              but the few key ones are “Globalizing Beauty: A Cultural History of the
              Global Beauty Industry” by K. T. Frith, “Clean Beauty: Everything You
              Need To Know” by E. Burney and two Mintel reports “Global Beauty and
              Personal Care Trends 2030” and “Mintel Announces ‘sub-zero waste’
              as 2019’s global beauty and personal care trend”. It is important to
              have a wide variety of research to have a holistic and comprehensive
              perspective on the topic. Thus, this assignment will have a broad
              literature review that will support the rationale of True Beauty’s
              business proposal.

              The first step of the research was an analytical and methodical review
              of the literature. This report used a wide variety of resources such
              as academic journals, web articles and industry reports. Academic
              journals and reports were searched using University of Southampton
              database and usually included keywords such as “clean”, “non-toxic”,
              “organic” and “natural”. Those keywords were combined with following
              terms: “beauty”, “makeup”, “cosmetics”, “colour cosmetics”. Web articles
              were researched using same keywords, but chosen more carefully,
              because not all internet sources are reliable. In terms of all resources,
              not every report, article or journal addressed the issue of interest. All
              of the articles of research evaluated and more relevant, current and
              reputable were obtained and subjected for analysis.
methodology

              The second step of the research was supposed to be primary research
              in the form of an interview with industry experts to gain insight and
              knowledge of the beauty industry. However, due to the worldwide
              COVID-19 outbreak the primary research had to be cancelled. Although
              it would have given this report an excellent perspective into the clean
              beauty industry, but on the other hand, this has given the author an

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              opportunity to strengthen the secondary research and look even
              deeper into the industry.

              SECTION

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TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
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                      3.1 HISTORY OF BEAUTY                         3.1 HISTORY OF BEAUTY
                      3.2 SHIFTS THAT ARE DISRUPTING THE INDUSTRY

                      3.3 CLEAN BEAUTY
                                                                    The beauty community has blown up to be a $532 billion industry
                                                                    (Biron, 2019). But what is happening in the industry and how is it
                                                                    reacting to current issues in the world today? First, to understand those
                                                                    questions, it is important to get an overview of its history.

                                                                    Archaeological finds suggest that symbolic traditions were present in
                                                                    Africa around 80 000 to 60 000 years ago (Watts, 2009, p. 63), which
                                                                    means that cosmetics in the form of body paint was used for language
                                                                    and ritual purposes. Watts explains that ochre, especially red ochre
                                                                    was used as human social communication, but also as a form of art
                                                                    on sacred objects and on the bodies of ritual performers (Watts, 2009,
                                                                    p.65). In addition, in his analysis, he gives many examples of how the
                                                                    paint was used to make a statement, for instance menstruating or
                                                                    pregnant women would paint themselves to show that they are fertile
                                                                    (Watts, 2009, pp. 71-72). This indicates that colour cosmetics has been
research & analysis

                                                                    used to get a message across or make a statement.

                                                                    In contrast, Jones believes that the origin of beauty lies in the scents
                                                                    and healing aspects of plants, flowers and herbs, which had strong
                                                                    religious and cultural backgrounds (Jones, 2010, p. 1). He suggests
                                                                    that the distinctive features of today’s beauty industry made their first
                                                                    appearance in fragrances and it turned ancient craft into a capitalist
                                                                    industry (Jones, 2010, p. 15). However, the rise of visual self-awareness
                                                                    soon took over since the trend of makeup from ancient times hadn’t
                                                                    still died out. Makeup had been used for centuries to enhance one’s
                                                                    appearance, for instance in Egypt men and women painted their eyes
                                                                    with black and green powder and women in the Roman Empire used

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                                                                    lead to whiten their faces (Little, 2016).

                                                                    SECTION

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TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
Figure 1. Maybelline ad (Maybelline, no date).

                                                                                                                                Figure 2. Maybelline ad (Maybelline, 1951).
                           Although beauty was mainly used to change one’s physical appearance, in the modern
                           day the trend shifted into cleanliness and hygiene (Jones, 2010, p. 71). There was a massive
                           transformation in the industry and a mass market for branded soaps emerged, with
                           strong advertising which persuaded consumers that the use of soap was evidence of the
                           superiority of Western civilisations (Jones, 2010, p. 71). Similar to Jones’ research, Frith’s
RESEARCH & ANALYSIS

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
                           study supports the fact that hygiene, soap and cleanliness were the main advertising
                           appeals to women in the 1900s and they were closely linked with personal beauty (Frith,
                           2014). She continues with a statement that

                           ‘cleanup’ transitioned into ‘makeup’
                           around the 1920s, which is when the modern beauty industry really began to emerge (Frith,
                           2014).

                           The once humble industry’s transformation into a brand-driven powerhouse offering
                           essential day-to-day products is a success story of the modern business history (Jones,
                           2010, p. 1). It is important to mention that the history of beauty has shaped the industry
                           today and there is no denying that history repeats itself.

                                                                                                                                                                              Figure 3. Max Factor Hi-Fi Lipstick Ad (Vogue, 1958).

                                                                                                                            Figure 4. Maybelline ad (Maybelline, 1942).

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TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
3.2 SHIFTS THAT ARE DISRUPTING THE INDUSTRY                                            3.2.1 CHALLENGER BRANDS

                           The beauty industry is very quick to adapt to change. According to Richard
                                                                                                                  In the McKinsey & Company and Business of Fashion “The State of Fashion 2019”
                           Kestenbaum, almost none of the industry leaders have ignored signs of change
                                                                                                                  report, challenger brands were mentioned as newcomers, who disrupt a sector
                           in the market and create new ideas, products and collections at the speed of light
RESEARCH & ANALYSIS

                                                                                                                                                                                                                    RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
                                                                                                                  where incumbents rest on their laurels (McKinsey & Company et al., 2019). To put
                           (Kestenbaum, 2017). In another article, he further backs up his statement and says
                                                                                                                  this in the context of makeup and beauty, this term can be used for brands such as
                           that the industry has seen enormous innovation and entrepreneurship in the last
                                                                                                                  Jeffree Star Cosmetics, Florence by Mills, Honest Beauty, Drunk Elephant and Foreo
                           years (Kestenbaum, 2019). So, in another words, the industry is constantly changing.
                                                                                                                  based on the % changes in Google searches 2018-2019 (Cosmetify, 2020). According
                           Challenger brands are disrupting the market and new Instagram trends are arising
                                                                                                                  to Cosmetify, those are the brands that broke the beauty stratosphere in 2019 and
                           every day. But what exactly are the biggest trends that have shaped the industry
                                                                                                                  therefore, are the most popular challenger brands. Usually, they gain their success
                           during the recent years?
                                                                                                                  by advancements in technology and social media, exiting branding and smart
                                                                                                                  communication (McKinsey & Company et al., 2019). In addition, they are known for
                                                                                                                  the use of influencers and it’s been highly effective – it’s predicted that the influencer
                                                                                        the                       marketing industry will be worth $15 billion by 2022 (Rahal, 2020). On the other hand,
                                                                                        industry                  sometimes the influencers themselves are the disruptors of the industry. Their beauty
                                                                                                                  reviews on YouTube has created a massive “beauty community” and many of them
                                                                                        is                        have created their own beauty brands.
                                                                                        changing.

                                                                                        what
                                                                                        happened?

                           Figure 5. Nature+ Beauty (Geltor, 2020).

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TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
Figure 6. Genderless makeup brand Jecca Blac (Travaglia, 2019).
RESEARCH & ANALYSIS

                           3.2.2 BREAKING STEREOTYPES

                           The beauty industry is finally looking beyond   of a revolution in the market (Par Vogue,
                           stereotypical gender-based marketing,           2019). Nonetheless, it is clear that during the
                           packaging and products (Chernikoff, 2020).      recent years there’s been a rise in inclusive
                           They’ve had to rethink their strategy, since    beauty: whether that’s makeup that is
                           about one-in-five of Gen-Z customers            gender neutral, made for men or ageless
                           have heard or know someone who prefers          beauty.
                           gender-neutral pronouns (Geiger et al.,
                           2019). So this means that stereotypes are no    However, inclusive beauty is nowhere we’re
                           longer a thing.                                 it’s supposed to be. Backlash with racial
                                                                           profiling and lack of diversity and inclusivity
                           Many have said that this trend really took      are still very current in the beauty world,
                           off when the YouTuber James Charles was         but that doesn’t mean that there’s been zero
                           named the first “Coverboy” in 2016 (Salpini,    progress (Salpini, 2019).
                           2019). Others think the launch of Rihanna’s
                           Fenty Beauty line marked the beginning

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                                                                                                                                                    Figure 7. Genderless makeup brand Jecca Blac (Blackler, 2018).
TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
Nearly 40% of adults aged 18-22 have shown
                           interest in gender-neutral beauty products,
                           according to NPD’s iGen Beauty Consumer
RESEARCH & ANALYSIS

                                                                                                                                                                                           RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
                                      report (Warfield, 2019).

                                                                                                                                   abuse                     loser
                           A way of breaking stereotypes in the industry is makeup for men. Men’s personal care
                                                                                                                    coward              feminine
                                                                                                                                                                        depressed

                                                                                                                        toxic
                           market has seen a massive rise – according to Allied Market Research the market is
                           expected to hit $166 million in 2022 (Warfield, 2019). While men’s beauty has usually                                    alone               sad
                           been described as grooming products or fragrances, then the growing trend has                                                    emotional         hurt

                                                                                                                    crybaby masculinity
                           given a platform to actual makeup for men. For instance, Chanel announced their first
                           line of makeup for men in 2019 (North, 2018) that includes a lightweight foundation, a       conflict

                           brow pencil and a lip balm (Chanel, no date).

                           This has enabled men to break the outdated toxic masculinity, which is a mixture of
                                                                                                                                   gender           angry                      fear
                           values that are dangerous, destructive; ideas that promote violence and is something
                           that is performed for other men for them to judge (Kimmel, 2018). Peter Maxwell has         gay                   pain

                                                                                                                                                                 terrified
                           said that “brands have a core role to play in helping men take the first crucial steps                                             wimp
                           on the road to becoming better allies” and then proceeds to bring out the fact that
                           brands have been investing billions in constructing an image of a successful man
                           who is powerful, dominating and strong (Maxwell, 2018). But now, however, brands
                           have the power to turn that around and help detoxify toxic masculinity and one of
                           those ways is to not make, label and market their makeup as ‘just for women’.

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TRUE BEAUTY BUSINESS PLAN - Final Marketing Project Winchester School of Art University of Southampton Word Count: 7224 4. 06. 2020
“In the future, algorithmic beauty will give rise not
                                                                                                            only to new technologies that will help the drive for
                                                                                                            flawless skin, but it will also lead to new conversations
                                                                                                            about the face as a site for data-gathering and shifts
RESEARCH & ANALYSIS

                                                                                                                                                                                                           RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
                                                                                                            in self-perceived beauty ideals.”
                           Figure 8. Intelligent beauty (Author’s own, 2020).                                                                             - Daniela Walker and Jessica Smith (2018)

                                                                                                            3.2.3 INTELLIGENT BEAUTY

                                                                                                            It is widely believed that beauty and technology have nothing in common and are
                                                                                                            two very different industries. Despite the everyday thought, they have actually
                                                                                                            become closer and integrated than ever.

                                                                                                            It is no surprise than technology has been used to simplify customers’ purchase
                                                                                                            journeys both in-store and online (Goodsitt, 2019). For instance, a beauty retailer
                                                                                                            Sephora has been called a master at integrating digital into their physical presence
                                                                                                            (Barseghian, 2019). One of their greatest innovations is a partnership with Pantone,
                                                                                                            where they offer Colour iQ that scans a customer’s face and assigns them
                                                                                                            foundations that are exact matches to their unique skin tone (Barseghian, 2019).

                                                                                                            However, while technology in-store has changed the way we shop, technology
                                                                                                            in beauty has changed what we shop. Mintel states that IOT (Internet of Things)
                                                                                                            will mainstream the 2030 beauty shelf by the ability to measure and monitor, and,
                                                       Figure 9. Intelligent beauty (Author’s own, 2020).
                                                                                                            therefore, fit seamlessly into consumers’ lives (Mintel, no date).

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IT’S NOT ABOUT                                                                       IT’S ABOUT
                                LOOKING GREAT,                                                                        FEELING GREAT.
RESEARCH & ANALYSIS

                                                                                                                                                                                                                   RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
                                                                                                                          Figure 10. Clean Beauty (Garten, 2019).

                           3.3 CLEAN BEAUTY

                           During recent years, sustainability in the cosmetics industry has seen a massive
                           growth, due to the growing interest from consumers (Bom et al., 2019). Conscious                                                         Figure 11. Clean Beauty (Parish, 2017).

                           consumerism has been a growing trend and evidently, the conscious consumer is
                           behind the massive need for clean beauty. One can be conscious in many ways –
                           socially; ecologically, politically; value; health; environmentally (Ramchandani, 2017).
                           The latter two seem to be the most popular ones. It is important for brands to keep
                           up with consumer expectations – Mintel suggests that over the next five years, the
                           popularity of sustainability will reach new volumes and conscious consumers will
                           look into every aspect of their lives to reduce waste, including beauty and personal
                           care (Mintel Press Team, 2018).

                           Furthermore, in a trend forecast report by Mintel, they outline many trends that
                           are going to disrupt the industry over the next years. In the report, they put a lot
                           of emphasis on waste-free beauty, engineered natural ingredients and veganism
                           (Mintel, no date). In addition, they state that clean beauty will evolve as consumers
                           are doing more research than ever before making a purchase, and brand
                           transparency plays a huge role in their purchasing behaviour (Mintel, no date).

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TERMS USED IN CLEAN BEAUTY

                           3.3.1 CLEAN, NON-TOXIC OR ORGANIC?                                                             ORGANIC
                                                                                                                          It means that the product’s ingredients and formula are
                                                                                                                          produced without dangerous pesticides. Organic products are
                                                                                                                          usually certified and government-regulated.
                           Research shows that the hyper-         There is not a clear definition                                                                               According to Franzino and Aral (2019).
RESEARCH & ANALYSIS

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
                           conscious consumers want               for “clean beauty” but generally
                           cosmetics that are free from           it refers to products that do not
                           toxins. But do they actually know      contain certain ingredients, such
                           what they are looking after?           as parabens, sulfates, mineral                          GREEN
                                                                                                                          It implies that the products are developed with minmal present
                           Cosmetics come in many shapes          oil or talc (Franzino et al., 2019).
                                                                                                                          and future environmental impact. Covers everything from the
                           and sizes and carry different          Moreover, “clean beauty” has                            products’ ingredients to how it’s made, packaged, distributed
                           terms for different types of ‘clean’   started to use the help of bio-                         and disposed.
                           makeup.                                technology to engineer even                                                                                   According to Franzino and Aral (2019).

                                                                  more natural products (Buchanan,
                           The two most used buzzwords            2020).
                           are “clean” and “natural” beauty
                           and it is easy to think that those     Although “clean” and “natural”                          NON-TOXIC
                           two mean the same thing. Usually,      are the most used terms in the                          It is a product that is not harmful to humans nor includes toxic
                                                                                                                          ingredients.
                           ‘natural’ used to describe products    beauty industry, it is important to                                                                           According to Franzino and Aral (2019).
                           that have a pure and nature-           not forget other sub-categories
                           derived formula without lab-made       in the clean beauty market. The
                           chemicals or synthetics (Malacoff,     infographic on the right explains
                           2020). In contrast, “clean” beauty     the differences of each category.
                           is often associated with clean                                                                 CHEMICAL FREE
                           eating or eating unprocessed                                                                   Refers to a product that does not contain harmful chemicals.
                           foods, but it actually has some                                                                Harmful chemicals are ingredients that can lead to long-term
                                                                                                                          health concerns.
                           differences (Malacoff, 2020).                                                                                According to Franzino and Aral (2019) and Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (2020).

                                                                                                                          NATURALLY DERIVED
                                                                                                                          Naturally derived products have natural ingredients that have
                                                                                                                          undergone some chemical processing. It is similar to terms
                                                                                                                          “natural origin” or “made with natural ingredients”.
                                                                                                                                                                                According to Franzino and Aral (2019).

                                                                                                                                                                           Figure 12. Clean beauty sub-categories (Author’s own, 2020).

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3.3.2 INGREDIENTS

                                                                  It can be said that the science behind the trend is the most important part, as it is
                                                                  the ingredients that make the makeup “clean”. According to doctors Wanner and

                                                                                                                                                                                                RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
                                                                  Nathan, the majority of the chemical used in beauty fall into one or more of three big
                                                                  categories: irritant/allergens; potential endocrine disruptors (ingredients that may
                                                                  imitate one’s body’s natural hormones); and potential carcinogens (cancer-causing
                                                                  agents) (Wanner et al., 2019).

                                                             THREE MAJOR CHEMICAL CATEGORIES

                                                             IRRITANTS AND ALLERGENS           Avoided in clean cosmetics: Fragrance, methylisothiazolinone
                                                                                               (MI), methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI), phenoxyethanol, vitamin A
                                                                                               derivatives, petroleum distillates, and formaldehydes.

                                                                                               Effects: Can cause contact dermatitis, which is a poison ivy-like rash
                                                                                               that can become chronic with repeated exposure.
                                                                                                                                                   According to Wanner and Nathan(2019).

                                                             POTENTIAL ENDOCRINE               Avoided in clean cosmetics: Triclosan and triclocarban, placenta
                                                             DISRUPTORS                        extract, resorcinol, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), boric acid and
                                                                                               sodium borate, phthalates, toluene, parabens, petroleum distillates and
                                                                                               phenoxyethanol.

                                                                                               Effects: Can cause an increase in urinary and blood levels.
                                                                                                                                                   According to Wanner and Nathan(2019).

                                                             POTENTIAL CARCINOGENS             Avoided in clean cosmetics: 1,4-dioxane, petroleum distillates, coal tar
                                                                                               ingredients, formaldehydes and placenta extract.

                                                                                               Effects: Formaldehydes has been linked to cancer formation in humans
                                                                                               at high doses. It also ranks among the top 10 most common allergens.
                                                                                                                                                   According to Wanner and Nathan(2019).

                                                                                                                  Figure 14. Three major chemical categories (Author’s own, 2020).

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Figure 13. Natural beauty ingredients (Turk Corner, 2019).
But what qualifies as a toxic ingredient? Unfortunately, there aren’t clear worldwide                                               Since there are hundreds of thousands of ingredients, it’s difficult to list all of
                           guidelines to toxic ingredients in beauty or health products.                                                                       them. As a shortcut, it’s clever to look at other “clean” beauty brands to see what
                                                                                                                                                               ingredients they avoid or on the other hand, opt in. For instance, a skincare brand
                           While the EU bans more than 1300 ingredients from cosmetics,                                                                        Drunk Elephant cut out ingredients that they call the “suspicious six”: essential oils,
                           then in the US they only ban around 30 (Burney, 2019).                                                                              drying alcohols, silicones, chemical screens, fragrances/dyes and SLS or sodium
RESEARCH & ANALYSIS

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
                                                                                                                                                               lauryl sulphates (Burney, 2019). However, a brand called Balance Me have opted for
                           Based on this information, it can be assumed that people in Europe are much more                                                    essential oils because they believe the ingredient is tested enough (Burney, 2019).
                           interested in their health and wellbeing, but Americans are still new to the topic of
                           chemicals in beauty. Americans’ awareness to their health also correlates to other                                                  This table showcases the most common beauty ingredients that contrary to popular
                           aspects of their lives – according to the Organization for Economic Cooperation                                                     belief, should be avoided.
                           and Development, the obesity rate for American adults is at the top of the heaviest-
                           nations-in-the-world rankings (Kollmeyer, 2017). This points to the fact that clean                                      THE MOST HARMFUL INGREDIENTS IN BEAUTY
                           cosmetics in the U.S. market might not be as successful as it would be in the
                           European market, which is something upcoming brands should consider.
                                                                                                                                                    PARABENS                                             ETHOXYLATED AGENTS                                REFINED
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           PETROLEUM
                                                                                                                                                    A group of preservatives and antimicrobial           They include polyethylene glycols (PEGs),         Mineral oil is used as a moisturising agent and
                                                                                                                                                    chemicals that prevent the growth of                 ceteareths, oleth and sulfates. The latter is     is often found in lip balms and face creams.
                                                                                                                                                    bacteria and mould in cosmetics. It mimics           responsible for bubbles and lather in cleansers   Besides the fact that it is very unsustainable
                                                                                                                                                    estrogen in the human body, which can cause          and shampoos. PEGs are used as thickeners,        from an environmental standpoint, it carries
                                                                                                                                                    reproductive organ harm, hormone-related             softeners and moisturisers in hair products.      health concerns as well. It was found to be
                                                                                                                                                    cancer and obesity. Exposure to parabens from        Sodium lauryl sulfate is a harsh cleanser         the largest contaminant present in the human
                                                                                                                                                    beauty products is also linked to early onset        which will strip one’s hair.                      body due to its accumulation over time.
                                                                                                                                                    puberty in girls.

                                                                                                                                                    FRAGRANCES AND                                       FORMALDEHYDE                                      HYDROQUINONE
                                                                                                                                                    PHTHALATES
                                                                                                                                                    A chemical used to make a product smell             The most notorious preservative in history,        A bleaching agent found in skin-lightening
                                                                                                                                                    better. Often used with phthalates, which           commonly found in keratin smoothing                creams and serums and used for
                                                                                                                                                    helps fragrances last longer, however,              treatments that relies on the chemical to lock     hyperpigmentation. Has been linked to certain
                                                                                                                                                    phthalates have been linked to reproductive         the broken hair into a straighter position.        cancers, a skin condition called ochronosis
                                                                                                                                                    and hormonal harm, obesity, type 2 diabetes,        It is recognised as a human carcinogen, a          and a decreased immune response.
                                                                                                                                                    reduced sperm count, breast cancers and             formation of cancer, and that’s why it has been
                                                                                                                                                    infertility. Can also be a trigger for allergies.   eliminated from many cosmetic products.

                                                                                                                                                    TRICLOSAN                                           TALC                                               SILICA
                                                                                                                                                    An antibacterial chemical found in sanitising       A mineral made from magnesium, silicon,            Known as silicon dioxide, used as an
                                                                                                                                                    hand and body soaps and mascara. Linked             oxygen and hydrogen and a common                   absorbent in everything from foundation to
                                                                                                                                                    to liver fibrosis, hormone disruption and skin      ingredient in face powders and eye shadows.        oral care. In terms of health concerns, some
                                                                                                                                                    cancer. And contrary to popular belief, not any     If not purified then talc can be contaminated      forms of silica can be a human carcinogen.
                                                                     Figure 15. Difference between the EU and the US market (Author’s own, 2020).   more effective than soap and water.                 with asbestos, a human carcinogen.                 From an environmental viewpoint, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           slippery silica found in face primer is not
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           biodegradable.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Figure 16. List of harmful ingredients (Author’s own, 2020).

                      26                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       27
T
                4.1 VISION AND BUSINESS DETAILS            4.1 VISION AND BUSINESS DETAILS
                4.2 MARKET ANALYSIS

                4.3 COMPETITIVE ANALYSIS                   4.1.1 WHAT IS THE IDEA?
                4.4 CUSTOMER ANALYSIS

                4.5 PRODUCT
                                                           The business idea is to have a makeup brand that has non-toxic and clean
                4.6 MARKETING, PROMOTION AND ADVERTISING   ingredients, yet still delivers vibrant colours and is high in pigmentation.
                4.7 FINANCE                                The research shows that the traditional colour cosmetics industry is a very
                                                           profitable industry, however the clean beauty market is also becoming
                4.8 OPERATIONS
                                                           more popular on the daily. Therefore, a clever business idea would be to
                                                           create a makeup brand that has the best of both worlds but puts extra
                                                           attention on clean and non-toxic ingredients. In addition, True Beauty will
                                                           be cruelty free and vegan.
business plan

                                                           SECTION                                                       04
     28                                                                                                                                   29
4.1.2 WHAT IS THE NAME?                                                                               There are two variations for True                                  alternative when the space is tight. Both
                                                                                                                            Beauty’s logo. The main and preferred                              of the logos can be used together or on
                                                                                                                            one is a full text one, where True Beauty                          their own. The primary colour is black
                      A theory by Round et al. found that there is a direct link between the name of a brand                is in written form. The second one is                              and the secondary colour is white.
                      and the brand equity (Round et al., 2017), therefore it is important to have a strong                 a simple “T” that can be used as an

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                BUSINESS PL AN
                      name that will represent the brand in the best way possible.
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                      Therefore, the name of the brand would be True Beauty. “True” as in the brand is
                      honest about its ingredients, and the name “Beauty” would not label the brand as
                      only a makeup brand, but leaves room for future launches also, such as skincare,
                      haircare or fragrances.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                4x

                                                                                                                                                                x
                                                                                                                                                                     TRUE BEAUTY

                                     TRUE BEAUTY
                                                                                                                                                                                                                4x

                                                                        Figure 17. True Beauty logo (Author’s own, 2020).
                                                                                                                                                           Figure 20. True Beauty logo with white space (Author’s own, 2020).

                                     TRUE BEAUTY
                                                                                                                                                                                       2/x
                                                                        Figure 18. True Beauty logo (Author’s own, 2020).

                                     TRUE BEAUTY
                                                                                                                                                                       x
                                                                                                                                                                                   T   2/x

                                                                        Figure 19. True Beauty logo (Author’s own, 2020).

                                                                                                                                                    Figure 21. True Beauty logo variation with white space (Author’s own, 2020).

                 30                                                                                                                                                                                                                        31
Furthermore, research shows that big brands often have a slogan or a tagline that
                      represents what the brand stands for. For instance, the beauty giant L’Oréal has had
                      the slogan “Because you’re worth it” for years (L’Oréal, 2020) and Nike is obviously
                      famous for its “Just Do It” tagline. However, it seems like not many beauty brands
                      have slogans anymore. That might be because marketing has moved from tradition
                      TV advertising to social media, where taglines nor slogans are not very common.
                      Nonetheless, True Beauty will have a tagline. Tagline “Beauty that is honest” will draw
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                      attention to the fact that the brand is honest about its ingredients and emphasise the
                      fact that they are ‘clean’.

                                                             Figure 22. True Beauty logo with slogan (Author’s own, 2020).

                                  TRUE BEAUTY           BEAUTY THAT IS HONEST.
                                                                                                                             TRUE BEAUTY
                                                                                                                                BEAUTY THAT IS HONEST.

                      4.1.3 VALUE PROPOSITION

                      The value proposition or the promise to be delivered is to create non-toxic products
                      that combine quality, pigmentation and safety in every aspect. The promise is to be
                      diverse, inclusive, safe, colourful and meant for all. To bring beauty that is honest to
                      the mainstream at a reasonable price point.

                 32                                                                                                                                                                                    33

                                                                                                                                                         Figure 23. True Beauty campaign image (Author’s own, 2020).
4.2 MARKET ANALYSIS
                                                                                                                                “The cosmetics market will undoubtedly suffer in
                      4.2.1 THE CURRENT SITUATION                                                                               2020 and in the years to come, but we expect it to
                                                                                                                                recover within three to five years as it has in all past
                                                                                                                                recessions. Compared to other industries, the beauty

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                      The research in section 3 explained thoroughly what is happening in the industry,
                      what trends are dominating and how beauty as an industry was born. What the                               market is fairly recession-proof, and its products
                                                                                                                                will continue to be desired by consumers – both for
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                      research didn’t discuss, was the current situation in the market. Although it is
                      important to research the industry first, but to actually launch a brand it is vital                      meeting basic needs as well as an indulgence.”
                      to understand what is happening in the industry now, whether it is growing or
                                                                                                                                                                                - Carrie Mellage (2020)
                      declining, what changes there are and how it is segmented.

                      There is no doubt that the COVID-19 crisis has shocked the global beauty industry
                      (Gerstell et al., 2020). They have had to quickly respond to the crisis by switching their
                      manufacturing to produce hand sanitisers, however, at the same time they have had                         Even though the economic            that eye-cosmetics, skincare
                      to think and act critically to ensure that their companies survive (Gerstell et al., 2020).               magnitude of the pandemic           and haircare will benefit
                                                                                                                                is greater than any recession,      from this self-care trend
                      Figure 24 showcases the steady growth of the global beauty industry. The industry                         Gerstell et al. think that the      (Gerstell et al., 2020). So, in
                      survived the 2008 financial crisis and created generations of loyal customers (Gerstell                   beauty industry will once           conclusion, this pandemic will
                      et al., 2020), and in theory, it should overcome the 2020 crisis as well. But does the                    again stay resilient (Gerstell et   have positive and negative
                      beauty industry actually have what it takes to beat the economic emergency                                al., 2020). On the other hand,      effects on the industry –
                      this time?                                                                                                Poshly CEO Doreen Bloch said        people are now caring about
                                                                                                                                that beauty professionals           their health more than ever
                      GLOBAL BEAUTY-INDUSTRY RETAIL SALES, $ BILLION                                                            such as makeup artists and          which means they will be
                                                                                                                                hairstylists are facing the         more likely to buy cosmetics
                                                                                                             FRAGRANCES         most difficult challenges in        with health benefits. This
                                                                                                             COLOUR COSMETICS   the industry since salons           means that brands need to
                                                                                                                                have been closed and they           make strategical decisions
                                                                                                                                are left without work (Krause,      and closely investigate
                                                                                                             SKINCARE
                                                                                                                                2020). Moreover, McKinsey &         what today’s consumers are
                                                                                                                                Company estimates that the          wanting.
                                                                                                                                beauty industry revenue could
                                                                                                                                fall up to 30% in 2020, yet a lot
                                                                                                             PERSONAL CARE      of people will be continuing
                                                                                                                                to wear masks which means

                      NOTE: Figures may not sum up to listed totals, because of rounding.
                      Figure 24. Global beauty industry retail sales (Author’s own, 2020).
                 34                                                                                                                                                                                       35
Responding to a crisis is as important as surviving the crisis. A brand can barely
                      survive a crisis, but if it does not respond and make necessary changes, it can have
                      terrible consequences that might lead the brand to failure.

                      Many beauty brands still rely on in-store experiences to drive sales but unfortunately,
                      the absence of brick & mortar stores is bound to impact many brands (Gilliland,
                      2020). However, one of the ways brands can respond is through virtual and
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                      digital consultations. For instance, a skincare brand Kiehl’s is launching virtual
                      consultations to guide their consumers, and Glossier has ramped up their online
                      tutorials on IGTV to immerse clients in instructional content (Gilliland, 2020). These
                      beauty moguls have realised the benefits of technology – it allows for greater
                      interaction between brands and consumers (Gilliland, 2020), which in turn creates
                      strong brand loyalty.
                                                                                                                                  “As consumers become increasingly aware of
                      In terms of True Beauty, starting a new brand in this pandemic will be really                              general hygiene and safety practices, the need
                      challenging. It is important to be extremely smart and critical of every choice and
                      step they make. In addition, as explained above, heavy use of technology would help
                                                                                                                                  for transparency will intensify. Clean beauty
                      the brand to get a bigger reach and socialise with its customers daily. What’s more,                       and natural have remained popular mentions
                      the pricing has to be spot on. It’s predicted that there are almost 17 million job losses                  on Twitter and Instagram in the Americas and
                      worldwide (Jones, 2020) which means people will be extra careful with their money.
                      The pricing needs to be accessible, but realistic for the brand to have good quality                        around the globe over the last few months. In
                      ingredients.                                                                                              fact, mentions of clean beauty and safety rose as
                                                                                                                                         COVID-19 worsened in March.”
                                                                                                                                                                      - Meghan Ross (2020)
                                                                  Figure 25. Glossier’s beauty tutorial (Author’s own, 2020).

                 36                                                                                                                                                                      37
4.2.2 MARKET SEGMENTS                                                                                                     4.2.3 POSITIONING AND TARGETING

                      To understand the beauty industry better, it is good to divide the market into different                                  In terms of age, True Beauty will position itself within Generation Z and Millennials. A survey
                      customer segments that are buying and consuming cosmetics. In the beauty world,                                           from Mintel shows that Generation Z actively seek out clean and organic makeup and in

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     BUSINESS PL AN
                      they are usually segmented by demographics, geographics and consumer types,                                               addition, another survey from Alix Partners found that Millennials hold the biggest spending
                      which can be related to psychographics.                                                                                   power and are leading the consumer demand for sustainability (Hunter, 2019). When it
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                                                                                                                                                comes to gender, True Beauty will be positioned and targeted to both genders.
                      The industry is still dominated by gender stereotypes: products are still labelled
                      “made for women” or “made for men” and marketing tactics are targeted to one of                                           True Beauty will not necessary position itself to appeal to only professionals – it is meant
                      the two genders. Therefore, one of most common segments in the beauty industry                                            for everyone and therefore, will rather be targeted to traditional consumers. On the other
                      gender. Another common segment is categorised by location. The easiest way to                                             hand, the products’ simplicity, clean ingredients and high pigmentation should appeal to all
                      segment by geography is to locate the consumer within the 4 biggest location groups                                       customers.
                      in the world: North America, Europe, Asia-Pacific and LAMEA. And lastly, the last
                      segment is consumer typologies. This macro-category is an easy way to distinguish                                         In the beginning, True Beauty will be positioned in the European market. Chapter 3.3.2 in
                      consumers, who do makeup for fun from those who take it more seriously. They also                                         Research & Analysis showed that the people in Europe are much more educated on clean
                      have different wallet sizes, spending power and budgets that they are willing to                                          beauty. Therefore, it would be a logical choice to position and target True Beauty within
                      spend on makeup.                                                                                                          Europeans first, and in the future move to North America, for instance.

                      GLOBAL BEAUTY INDUSTRY CONSUMER SEGMENTS

                      DEMOGRAPHIC                         Age (generations).
                                                          Gender.

                      CONSUMER TYPES                      Traditional consumer.
                                                          New entrant.
                                                          Beauty addicted.
                                                          Beauty expert.

                                                                                                                                                                       Figure 27. Natural cosmetics (100% PURE, 2018).
                      GEOGRAPHIC                          North America.
                                                          Europe.
                                                          Asia-Pacific.
                                                          LAMEA (Latin America, Middle East and Africa).                                                                                                                 Figure 28. Versed was launched in response to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  rising popularity of skincare over makeup
                 38                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           (Versed, 2019).
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                39
                                                                    Figure 26. Global beauty industry consumer segments (Author’s own, 2020).
4.3 COMPETITIVE ANALYSIS

                      4.3.1 COMPETITORS IN THE MARKET
                                                                                                                “But what's interesting, and relatively unknown
                                                                                                                to the average buyer, is that plastic pink-capped
                                                                                                                 bottle "save" from your local drugstore and the

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                      The multibillion market holds many competitors who all are a threat to new and
                      upcoming brands. There are many beauty companies on the market, but in reality,            gold-plated designer lipstick are more similar
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                      they all fall under the massive umbrellas on huge manufacturers (Willett et al., 2017).                    than you'd think ...
                      It is important to understand how interconnected brands truly are, because only then
                      one can notice the similarities of the sub-brands.

                                                                                                                              Figure 30. World of beauty (Author’s own, 2020).

                                                                                                                 ... because they're actually owned by the same
                                                                                                                                    company.”
                                               Figure 29. Top brand in the beauty sector (CB Insights, 2018).
                                                                                                                                                                                 - Megan Decker (2019)

                 40                                                                                                                                                                                      41
TOP 10 COMPETITORS: CLEAN AND MAINSTREAM MAKEUP BRANDS

                      4.3.2 DIRECT COMPETITORS                                                                                                                   Clean Cosmetics                                                                              Cons
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Pros

                                                                                                                                                                 LILY LOLO                     Wide product range; strong packaging.                  Small colour range.
                                                                                                                                                                 DR. HAUSCHKA                          Strong brand identity.                         Small colour range.
                      Although there are hundreds of brands who all pose a threat, it is crucial to filter and
                      categorise to find out the direct competitors. Since True Beauty is embracing both                                                         COULEUR CARAMEL                       Wide product range.                          Weak brand message.

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                      sides of the industry, the clean and the mainstream side, then it is important to look                                                     MADARA COSMETICS                Strong brand identity and equity.                Lack in product diversity.
                      at competitors from both side of the industry.
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                                                                                                                                                                 HONEST BEAUTY                          Strong packaging.                         Lack in product diversity.
                                                                                                                                                                 RMS BEAUTY                       Extremely wide product range.                     Weak brand message.
                                                                                                                      Figure 31. Dr. Hauschka (K-Rauta, 2020).   KJAER WEISS                    Unique packaging; strong message.                   Low brand awareness.

                                                                                                                                                                 VAPOUR BEAUTY                          Interesting concept.                      Uninteresting packaging.

                                                                                                                                                                 JUICE BEAUTY                         Strong brand message.                         Low brand awareness.
                                                                                                                                                                 W3LL PEOPLE                           Wide product range.              Weak brand message; small colour range.

                                                                                                                                                                 Mainstream Cosmetics                          Pros                                           Cons

                                                                                                                                                                 FENTY BEAUTY                   Strong brand message and concept.                 Undiverse product range.
                                                                                                                                                                 ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS               Wide product range.                          Weak brand message.

                                                                                                                                                                 JEFFREE STAR COSMETICS              Very pigmented colours.                           Bad ingredients.

                                                                                                                                                                 HUDA BEAUTY                     Strong brand identity and equity.                     Bad ingredients.

                                                                                                                                                                 TARTE COSMETICS                         Good storytelling.                        Lack in colour diversity.
                                                                                                                                                                 NARS                                Strong brand awareness.                        Weak brand message.

                                                                                                                                                                 BECCA                           Great packaging; strong products.                  Low brand awareness.

                                                                                                                                                                 MORPHE BRUSHES                      Strong brand awareness.                              Low quality.

                                                                                                                                                                 HOURGLASS                            Strong brand message.                       Lack in product diversity.
                                               Figure 32. Madara Cosmetics (Madara, 2020).                                                                       SMASHBOX                               Great brand image.                        Lack in product diversity.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Figure 34. Top competitors for True Beauty (Author’s own, 2020).

                                                                                                                                                                 Here is a list of top 10 of both areas of the market. They all pose a threat for different
                                                                                                                                                                 reasons: packaging, marketing, concept, price range, same target customer. This
                                                                                                                                                                 table showcases the pros and cons of the competitors of True Beauty. This comes in
                                                                                                                                                                 handy because True Beauty can learn from the mistakes of its competitors and look
                                                                                             Figure 33. Fenty Beauty (Sephora. no date).                         what they are doing good and do it better.

                 42                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              43
BRAND POSITIONING MAP                                                                         4.3.3 RISKS

                                                                                                                    It is critical to evaluate risks when starting a business. One of the main risks is
                                                                                                                    competitive risk, which is the chance that a competitor will prevent one from

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         BUSINESS PL AN
                                                                                                                    achieving a goal (Spacey, 2017). Furthermore, Michael Porter created a tool called
                                                                                                                    Porter’s Five Forces (1979) which identifies five forces that make up a competitive
                                                                                                                    environment and which can disrupt the profitability of a brand (Mind Tools, 2020).
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                                                                                                                    This framework will be used to analyse and examine factors that could impact True
                                                                                                                    Beauty and its success.

                                                                                                                PORTER’S FIVE FORCES: RISKS

                                                 Figure 35. Brand positioning map (Author’s own, 2020).

                      This brand positioning map locates True Beauty in the middle of both areas of the
                      industry. The map was conducted by comparing every brand’s eyeshadow palette:
                      its ingredients and price in euros. The map includes 4 clean beauty competitors and
                      4 mainstream beauty competitors. In conclusion, True Beauty is located on the upper
                      side of the map, meaning that the price is on the lower side yet the products are still
                      high quality and have good ingredients.

                                                                                                                                                                            Figure 36. Porter’s Five Forces (Author’s own, 2020).
                 44                                                                                                                                                                                                                 45
TRUE     BEAUTY

       46                                                              47
Figure 37. True Beauty campaign image (Author’s own, 2020).
KNOW YOUR                                                     LIKE THE BACK
                                                  CUSTOMER                                                     OF YOUR HAND.

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                      4.4 CUSTOMER ANALYSIS

                      Chapter 4.2.2 already discussed the different consumer segments of the beauty
                      industry and chapter 4.2.3 talked about True Beauty’s positioning and targeting. The
                      latter also explained that True Beauty will be positioned within Europe and target
                      Millennials and Gen Z.

                      As a brand, it’s actually much more than just saying you target this age group at this
                      location. One needs to know the customer inside and out, their characteristics, needs
                      and wants. Steve Jobs was often quoted saying he didn’t listen to his customers, but
                      later he admitted his mistake and that when his greatest success happened (Steuer,
                      2018). Despite the fact that it is very important to listen to your customers, a brand
                      can skip that part if they already know beforehand what they want by doing their
                      research. A brand should always be one step ahead of their customers. On the other
                      hand, it is also important to listen to customers for their feedback, for instance.
                                                                                                                        Figure 38. Beauty consumer (Beauloye, 2020).

                 48                                                                                                                                                    49
4.4.1 CHARACTERISTICS                                                                                            4.4.2 SATISFYING THE NEEDS

                      This graph showcases the most basic characteristics of the two generations who True                              Possibly the most important part is satisfying consumers’ needs, because that is
                      Beauty will target.                                                                                              when they will make purchase. It is clear from the research that both Gen Z and

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                BUSINESS PL AN
                                                                                                                                       Millennials are highly conscious about their health, wellbeing and are interested in
                                                                                                                                       buying cosmetics, thus it should be quite easy to satisfy both consumer groups. To
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                                                                                                                                       give an example, Gen Z are hungry for clean products – True Beauty will deliver clean
                                      CHARACTERISTICS OF GEN Z AND MILLENNIALS
                                                                                                                                       cosmetics. Millennials are financially conscious – True Beauty’s pricing strategy will
                                                                                                                                       give them their money’s worth.

                                                                                                                                       Moreover, True Beauty will satisfy the two upper levels of the Maslow’s Hierarchy of
                                                                                                                                       Needs (1943), which is a motivational theory comprising a five-tier model of human
                                                                                                                                       needs (McLeod, 2020). The basis of the theory is that the needs lower down the
                                                                                                                                       hierarchy must be satisfied before one can move up a level (McLeod, 2020). If a
                                                                                                                                       consumer decides to buy True Beauty to feel accomplished for instance, then they
                                                                                                                                       would need to have the 3 lower ties satisfied beforehand.

                                         GEN Z                                                       MILLENNIALS                                      MASLOW’S HIERARCHY OF NEEDS
                         – Generation born between 1990-2010                         – Also known as generation Y, born
                         (Business Insider, 2019).                                   between 1981-1996 (Business Insider, 2019).
                         – Raised on the internet and social media                   – Entered the workforce at the height of
                         therefore very tech-savvy (Business                         the Great Recession so they are extra
                                                                                                                                                                                                              SELF-FULFILLMENT
                         Insider, 2019).                                             careful with money (Business Insider,                                                                                    NEEDS
                                                                                                                                                                             SELF-
                         – Are interested in clean and organic                       2019).                                                                          ACTUALISATION
                         makeup and personal care products that                      – The most willing to pay more for clean-                                    Achieving one’s full potential,
                         make them look like themselves (Hunter,                     label and ethically sourced products                                          including creative activities

                         2019).                                                      (Hunter, 2019).
                         – Experience focused (Hunter, 2019).                        – Experience led (Francis et al., 2018).                                          ESTEEM NEEDS
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      PSYCHOLOGICAL
                                                                                                                                                              Prestige and feeling of accomplishment.
                         – They are hungry for truth and                             – Technology based, optimistic, ethical                                                                                          NEEDS
                         transparency (Francis et al., 2018).                        spending, educated (Cheng, 2019).
                                                                                                                                                      BELONGINGNESS AND LOVE NEEDS
                         – Interested in unique and ethical                          – Spiritually, financially, socially and health                       Intimate relationships, friends.
                         products (Francis et al., 2018).                            conscious (Cheng, 2019).
                                                                                                                                                                         SAFETY NEEDS
                                            Figure 39. Characteristics of Gen Z and Millennials (Author’s own, 2020).                                                      Security, safety.                                 BASIC NEEDS

                                                                                                                                                                  PHYSIOLOGICAL NEEDS
                                                                                                                                                                    Food, water, warmth, rest.

                                                                                                                                                       Figure 40. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs (Author’s own, 2020).
                 50                                                                                                                                                                                                                        51
4.5 PRODUCT                                                                                                            TRUE BEAUTY
                                                                                                                                               THE FACE BASE COLLECTION.
                      The first launch of brand would be the Face Base Collection. It would include the 4

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        BUSINESS PL AN
                      essential products that anyone can use to create a flawless base for their makeup, or
                      just wear on its own for a “no makeup” makeup look. The reasoning behind brining
                      out face products first is that foundations, concealers and setting powders are
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                      universal. Not only women wear “base” makeup – men have been wearing stage
                      makeup to enhance, define and correct their features (Mode Dion, 2016), and even                                         FOUNDATION
                      Donald Trump, the president of France and actor Daniel Kaluuya are known to use                                          Figure 42. True Beauty Foundation (Author’s own, 2020).
                      “base” makeup to cover uneven skin tone (Elan, 2020). For financial reasons, it is the
                      best choice to come out with one collection first. Later the company can expand to
                      other product groups such as eyes; brows; lips; cheek products and even skincare or
                      haircare.

                      The Face Base Collection includes 4 items: a foundation, a concealer, a pressed face
                      powder and a loose setting powder. This collection focuses on creating the perfect
                      base with just 4 products that both men and women can use.                                                               CONCEALER
                                                                                                                                               Figure 43. True Beauty Concealer (Author’s own, 2020).

                                                                                                                                               PRESSED FACE POWDER
                                       THE FACE BASE COLLECTION.                                                                               Figure 44. True Beauty Pressed Face Powder (Author’s own, 2020.

                                                       HONEST FOR ALL.

                                                                                                                                               LOOSE SETTING POWDER
                                                                                                                                               Figure 45. True Beauty Loose Setting Powder (Author’s own, 2020).

                                                          Figure 41. True Beauty Face Base Collection campaign image (Author’s own, 2020).

                 52                                                                                                                                                                                                53
4.5.1 COLOUR RANGE                                                                           FOUNDATION AND CONCEALER SHADES

                      The collection includes 35 unique                                                                                               #1                                   #13     #25*
                                                                      This highlights the issue that there are
                      shades that will cater to every skin tone

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                                                                      many consumer groups that feel like they
                      and undertone, so no one is excluded.                                                                                                *
                      Launching more than 30 shades of
                                                                      are left out – and not only with the lack                                       #2                                   #14     #26 *
                                                                      of foundation shades, also with products
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                      foundation and concealer today is not
                                                                      meant for women only. Hence, True
                      a rare sight. On the other hand, when
                      Fenty Beauty first launched its 40 shades,
                                                                      Beauty has a wide variety of foundation                                         #3                                   #15 *   #27
                                                                      shades that suit both men and women.
                      there wasn’t a brand on the market that
                                                                      The concealer shades are the same as
                      truly reached every skin tone, from very
                      dark to very light (Saputo, 2019). Rihanna
                                                                      foundation ones, so that people can                                             #4 *                                 #16     #28
                                                                      easily find a concealer that matches their
                      created to so called “Fenty effect” which
                                                                      foundation. Powders will have 10 shades,
                      celebrates every skin tone and it has had
                                                                      plus one translucent shade, since they
                      a massive effect on the beauty industry
                                                                      are more versatile and an exact shade
                                                                                                                                                      #5                                   #17     #29
                      (Philips, 2018). It does not come as a
                                                                      is not necessary – for instance, a person
                      surprise that her brand made $100 million
                                                                      with darker skin can use powder that is
                      in sales in the first 40 days (Philips, 2018)
                                                                      much lighter to give more dimension and                                         #6                                   #18     #30
                      – people, who have previously felt that
                                                                      highlight to the face.
                      they have been left out or abandoned by
                      beauty brands now had the opportunity to                                                                                        #7                                   #19     #31 *
                      buy cosmetics that actually matched their
                      skin tone.
                                                                                                                                                      #8 *                                 #20 *   #32

                                                                                                                                                      #9                                   #21 *   #33

                                                                                                                                                      #10                                  #22     #34

                                                                                                                                                                                                         *
                                                                                                                                                      #11                                  #23     #35

                                                                                                                                                      #12                                  #24
                 54                                                                                                NOTE: Swatches marked with * are the equivalent to the powder shades.                     55
                                                                                                                   Figure 46. True Beauty shade range (Author’s own, 2020).
4.5.2 PACKAGING                                                                                                                                       4.5.3 UNIQUE SELLING POINT

                      The packaging of True Beauty will be simple to portray the simplicity of the brand.
                                                                                                                                                                            The unique selling point or USP is definitely the factor that the brand would have
                      Foundations and concealers will be in glass bottles, the pressed powder in a
                                                                                                                                                                            non-toxic and clean ingredients. Although it is a

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                      compact packaging and the loose powder in a glass jar. The packaging will be white
                      and fade into the colour of the product.                                                                                                              growing trend, there are not that many competitors yet and it is quite new on the
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                                                                                                                                                                            market.
                                                          Figure 47. True Beauty packaging (Author’s own, 2020).

                                                                                                                                                                            The second USP of True Beauty is that it is genderless. The research
                                                                                                                                                                            pointed out that makeup isn’t uncommon among men, and it is a toxic and outdated
                                                                                                                                                                            way of thinking that only women can wear makeup. Admittedly, many other brands
                                                                                                                                                                            have brought out makeup made “for men”, but this brand is “for everyone”. For the
                                                                                                                                                                            young, the old, for men, for women, for light skinned and for dark skinned.

                                                                                                                                                                            The third and last USP is the fact that due to the unique formula it will still have
                                                                                                                                                                            strong pigmentation. Usually, natural or organic makeup have
                                                                                                                                                                            really light pigmentation on their products and have a “no-makeup” makeup feeling

                                                                                                                   Figure 48. True Beauty Concealer (Author’s own, 2020).
                                                                                                                                                                            to them. If the laboratory finds a perfect formula then this brand could still have all of
                                                                                                                                                                            the non-toxic ingredients, yet still can create a full glam look or a light coverage one,
                                                                                                                                                                            if needed.

                                    Figure 49. True Beauty packaging (Author’s own, 2020).

                      The outer packaging will be in white cardboard boxes. Considering that the brand
                      stands for environmental issues as well, the packaging will be compostable and
                      recyclable. This means that the outer packaging can simply be thrown into the
                      recycling bin and its lifecycle will be infinite.

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TRUE          BEAUTY

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Figure 50. True Beauty campaign image (Author’s own, 2020).
4.6 MARKETING & PROMOTION

                      what is the vision?                                                                                                               “It's not the best product that

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                      The vision is to become a market leader in the clean cosmetics industry.
                                                                                                                                                        wins but the best-known one
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                                                                                                                                                                   that wins.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               - Jaiden Vu (2019)

                      what is the mission?
                      True Beauty is dedicated to delivering high quality, clean, non-toxic and colourful
                      cosmetics to every beauty lover.

                                                                                                                                                      Marketing, advertising and promoting are remarkably crucial aspects of a brand.
                                                                                                                                                      Wertz emphasises that nearly 8 out of 10 businesses fail within the 24 first months,
                                                                                                                                                      often due to bad branding and an excessive emphasis on the product rather than
                      what are the marketing objectives?                                                                                              marketing the product (Wertz, 2019). This means that marketing needs to be spot on
                                                                                                                                                      in order for True Beauty to not fail its initial launch.
                      To improve brand recognition amongst Millennials and Gen Z; to launch 4 new
                      products; to meet the needs of the customers; to achieve strong sales; to increase                                              Wertz has also said “content is king, and selling a vision is as important as selling the
                      revenue growth; to gain an advantage over competition; to create a strong brand                                                 product itself” (Wertz, 2019). This implies that there needs to be a strong vision, and
                      image amongst consumers; to increase brand equity; to successfully enter the                                                    for True Beauty it is to be a market leader in clean cosmetics. One very important
                      beauty industry.                                                                                                                factor that needs to be recognised is that the target customer was brought up
                                                                                                                                                      submerged in technology and today’s digital era is hungry for smart, catchy and
                      * The objectives were refined using the SMART criteria, which was created by G. T. Doran (1981) to help to guide goal setting   experience-driven marketing. Considering that True Beauty will first be sold online
                      (Mind Tools, 2020). The goals are specific, measurable, achievable, relevant and time bound (Mind Tools, 2020).
                                                                                                                                                      and only with direct sales, experience needs to come to online where the majority
                                                                                                                                                      of the marketing will happen. Thus, the marketing strategy is built around digital
                                                                                                                                                      marketing.

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MARKETING MIX

                                                                                                             PRODUCT             Clean and non-toxic makeup. Target customers, Gen Z and Millennials, have
                      4.6.1 MARKETING MIX                                                                                        showed great interest in cosmetics, especially in clean and natural makeup.

                                                                                                             PROMOTION           Advertising is extremely important to an upcoming brand. There are many ways to
                      The 7Ps Marketing Mix model was created by E. J. McCarthy (1960) as an essential                           promote a brand, but True Beauty will use a mixture of online website, SEO (search
                      strategy tool for small businesses (Hanlon, 2019). Although the marketing will be                          engine optimisation), influencer marketing, paid social advertising and social
                      focused online, this model will give an excellent overview of the marketing strategy

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                                                                                                                                 media. The latter will possibly have the strongest effect and will be used most
                      as a whole. There are many aspects that need be taken into consideration such as                           often, as they are free platforms and easy to use.
                      Process, Place and even Physical Evidence.
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                                                                                                             PRICE               The price range will be located in the ‘masstige’ category. ‘Masstige’ is a middle
                                                                                                                                 ground in beauty, which mimics the look and feel of luxury products, however, the
                                                                                                                                 price point is above a drugstore brand, but below a Sephora one (Strugatz, 2019).

                                                                                                             PLACE               The distribution of True Beauty will initially be online through an online shop.
                                                                                                                                 Since the target consumers are exceptionally tech-savvy, it would be a logical
                                                                                                                                 choice to sell the products online. On the other hand, they are also noticeably
                                                                                                                                 experience-driven which indicates to a brick-and-mortar store, but a new brand
                                                                                                                                 does not have many resources and finances to start distributing from a physical
                                                                                                                                 store straight away. In addition, in the beginning True Beauty will only do direct
                                                                                                                                 sales to build brand equity.

                                                                                                             PEOPLE              The company will start off with 2-3 employees who will do everything from
                                                                                                                                 sending out packages to customer service to marketing. Freelancers will be used
                                                                                                                                 for design purposes and for technical support.

                                                                                                             PROCESS             The process begins with creating the formula which is usually done by a lab
                                                                                                                                 (See chapter 4.7.1). Then the products get packaged and sent to a warehouse or
                                            TRUE BEAUTY                                                                          a storage where they await their shipping. After a customer places an order, the
                                                                                                                                 products get sent out for the customer to enjoy.
                                                     BEAUTY THAT IS HONEST.
                                                                                                             PHYSICAL EVIDENCE   Since True Beauty will not have a physical store, the physical evidence will be
                                                                                                                                 based on the branding. The logo (See chapter 4.1.2) is straightforward, because
                                                                                                                                 simpler logos are instantly recognisable, crystal clear and versatile (Bowker,
                                                                                                                                 2014). Furthermore, another aspect of physical evidence is the packaging of the
                                                                                                                                 products, which is very important in cosmetics. Packaging is directly related to
                                                                                                                                 sales and profit – Tiffany & Co. ‘s blue box is more recognisable than the jewellery
                                                                                                                                 itself and Apple’s minimalist packaging is known worldwide (Conran, 2014). The
                                                                                                                                 packaging of True Beauty will be simple and sustainable because the whole
                                                                                                                                 brand message is to be kind to your health and to the environment. More about
                                                                                                                                 packaging in chapter 4.5.2.

                      Figure 51. True Beauty campaign image (Author’s own, 2020).
                                                                                                                                                                        Figure 52. True Beauty marketing mix (Author’s own, 2020).

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4.6.2 DIGITAL MARKETING MIX

                      This digital marketing represents the three areas of how the marketing will happen:
                      with earned, owned and paid media. The majority of the focus will be put on owned

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                      media, because besides paid media, that is the main way that True Beauty can control
                      how its perceived and what content to create. The whole True Beauty online store will
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                                                                                                                                         DIGITAL MARKETING MIX
                      be built around experience. Customers can use the Shade Finder to find their perfect
                      shade and take a skin quiz as well, which will help to determine how they should
                      approach the application process. What this means is that a customer will take a
                      quiz and determine whether their skin is dry, normal, combination or oily. If their
                      skin is dry, for instance, the True Beauty Skin Quiz will suggest that they put on their
                      foundation with a brush, since it absorbs less moisture from the skin than a sponge
                      would, and then finish off with very little powder to avoid a dry and flaky finish. All of
                      these tips and tricks will be portrayed on social media so that consumers can have
                      the feeling of experience in every aspect of the brand.

                      With earned media it is more hit or miss. However, if the product is good then there
                      should not be any worries that the customers will not like it. On the other hand, when
                      True Beauty receives feedback, whether it’s positive or negative, it is important to
                      take that feedback and use it to make the brand or the product better. Thus, it is
                      important to also listen to earned media because they might have valuable insight of
                      how to be more successful.
                                                                             Figure 53. True Beauty Shade Finder (Author’s own, 2020).

                                                                                                TRUE BEAUTY
                                                                                                SHADE FINDER                             Figure 54. True Beauty digital marketing mix (Author’s own, 2020).
                                                                                         Find your foundation shade so you can
                                                                                         go about your day and not worry about
                                                                                            those awkward foundation lines.

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