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  Contents
  November 2012
                                                                                  BARCELORN
                                                                                    IN YOU
                                                                                    IPHONE!

                                                                                                        IVÁN MORENO
   ;08 Feature
   Unmissable
   artworks

08          Feature                               22            Around Town
            A selection of Barcelona’s                          Run for your life!
            finest works of art
                                                  24            Arts
14          Food & Drink                                        La Pedrera celebrates its
            Chefs find ways to beat the                         centenary
            recession
                                                  26            Nightlife
20          Shopping                                            Pulling in at The Station
            Après Ski joins the Born’s
            creative boutiques                    29            Listings

TIME OUT BARCELONA              TIME OUT BCN GUIDE                 Advertising Executives Nuria
Diputació, 119                  bcnguide@timeout.cat               Gómez (ngomez@timeout.cat),
93 202 95 95                    www.barcelonaturisme.com           Mercè Llubera
www.timeout.cat                 Editor Andreu Gomila               (mllubera@timeout.cat)
                                Design Irisnegro                   Edited by 80 + 4 Publicacions
Publisher Eduard Voltas         Producer Sally Davies              & Turisme de Barcelona
Finance Manager Judit Sans      Designer Eduard Forroll            Printed by Bigsa Indústria Gràfica
Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila   Writers Josep Lambies,             DL B.21656-2012
Art director Diego              Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú,      ISSN 2014-7546
Piccininno                      Eugènia Sendra                     Supported by
Features and web editor         Translations
Maria José Gómez                Nick Chapman

                                              November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 3
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Monthly planner
Get out your diaries! We present just a handful of the
cultural highlights of the month ahead.

   Tuesday 06                            Thursday 08             Sunday 18
 LEGACY OF                              MARIZA                 FC BARÇA VS
 JACKSON POLLOCK                        The queen of fado      SARAGOSSA
 Works from Pollock                     returns to the Palau   Barcelona take on
 himself, and 50                        de la Música as        Zaragoza at Camp
 artists influenced                     part of the Jazz       Nou in round 12 of
 by his work.                           Festival.              La Liga.
 See p32                                See p41                See p45

                                          Monday 19            Wednesday 21
                                        PATTI SMITH            BUENA VISTA
                                        Here to promote        SOCIAL CLUB
                                        her excellent new      Featuring the
                      E. MAPPLETHORPE

                                        album Banga in the     magnificent Omara
                                        extravagantly          Portuondo, as part
                                        ornate Palau de la     of the Jazz Festival.
                                        Música. See p25        See p47

Wednesday 21                               Friday 23           Wednesday 00
 L’ALTERNATIVA                          FARRUQUITO
 The festival of                        A chance to see the
 independent                            controversial,
 cinema, now in its                     but indisputably
 19th year. Until                       talented flamenco
 November 25                            legend, Farruquito .
 See p46                                See p47

                                         Thursday 29               Friday 30
                                        WORLD PRESS            ELLEN ALLIEN
                                        PHOTO                  The Berlin-based
                                        Opening day of this    minimal techno
                                        prestigious            queen pays one of
                      SAMUEL ARANDA

                                        international          her ever popular
                                        photography            visits to the Sala
                                        exhibition. See p31    Apolo. See p49

4 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
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November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 5
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The Hot
  Seat

                                                                              MUSEU EGIPCI
Jordi Clos
The president of the Museu Egipci is still passionate
about an extraordinary civilisation. By Eugènia Sendra
Ancient Egypt and its art have          owners. I have objects that
fascinated you for a long time.         belonged to Adolf Hitler’s
I’m a great fan of culture and the      propaganda chief, and a necklace
arts, but the Egyptian collection is    that once belonged to Rudolf
what’s closest to my heart. My          Valentino.
interest started when I was 12,         You define the museum as ‘alive’.
and at 19 I bought my first piece.      There’s a lot going on; we’re still
The collection has allowed me to        making new acquisitions. We’ve
work in Egypt, and discover an          created a diploma and master’s
intact tomb from 1100 BC.               degree in Egyptology, and we run
Which of the museum’s 1,100             workshops for children. We want to
pieces would you save from a fire?      pass on a sense of respect for
We have several objects that would      humanity’s cultural heritage.
be hard to get hold of nowadays,        In November the star of the show
such as the stele of Cleopatra VII –    will be Tutankhamon.
many of these were destroyed in         That’s right, we’re putting on an
Alexandria, and if it had been          exhibition to celebrate the 90th
identified sooner, it would probably    anniversary of the discovery of his
have ended up at the Louvre or the      tomb by Howard Carter.
British Museum. Or the fragments
of bas-reliefs from the tomb of Iny,
bought in London, Paris, New York
and Amsterdam.
                                                    1,100
                                           objects make up the collection,
They’re objects with a story.              from the pre-dynastic period to
Yes, there’s the scientific story and      the time of Cleopatra.
the personal one, that of their

6 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
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November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 7
BcnGuide OFFICIAL FREE BCN GUIDE! - Turisme de Barcelona
ART
 in BCN
They’re not in the Prado, the Louvre or the MoMA:
they’re masterpieces of world art and they’re right here
in Barcelona. Joana Hurtado and Ricard Mas have
picked ten works that no visitor to the city should miss.
Photos Iván Moreno

Who leaves Paris without paying a          To bring the story up to date, the
visit on the Mona Lisa? And yet         Museu d’Art Contemporani de
plenty of people pass through           Barcelona (MACBA) specialises in
Barcelona without seeing the great      Spanish and Catalan art created since
Pantocrator of Taüll. The city may      1945. There’s also Can Framis, a
not have anything on the scale of the   brand new museum given over to the
Louvre, but its many museums and        Vila Casas Foundation’s collection of
foundations contain works that bear     contemporary art. In combination,
comparison with the best in the         these provide a general overview of
world, and attract visitors from all    Catalan art from its roots right up to
over the world.                         the present day.
   The MNAC has one of the finest          For anyone who wants a fuller
collections of Romanesque art           appreciation of 20th-century art, four
anywhere, centring on spectacular       of the greatest artists of the period –
mural paintings dating from the 11th    Picasso, Joan Miró, Antoni Tàpies
to the 13th centuries. The murals       and Joan Brossa – have strong
were removed whole from churches        connections to Barcelona, and each is
around Catalonia between 1919 and       represented by significant collections
1923, to save them from damage or       in the museums and foundations that
looting, and carefully reconstructed    bear their names.
in the museum. The MNAC’s                  So as not to overwhelm you, we’ve
stunning Gothic and Modernista          narrowed down this ample field to ten
galleries, representing two of the      of the best, focusing on painting and
region’s richest and most interesting   sculpture on display in permanent
artistic periods, are no less           collections. Barcelona’s museums
impressive. If the MNAC’s Gothic        concentrate on Catalan art, and this
galleries leaves you wanting more,      selection reflects that tendency. These
the Fundació Godia’s small but          are the most representative works of
remarkable medieval collection          artists who have left their mark on the
comes highly recommended.               region’s culture.

8 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
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The lark’s wing ringed in the blue of gold meets
the heart of the poppy asleep on the field
studded with diamonds, 1967 Oil on canvas. 195 x 130 cm
JOAN MIRÓ (1893 – 1983)
Many of the works on display at the Miró foundation belong on this list. So why this
one? Because few express so perfectly the artist’s desire to ‘achieve the maximum
intensity with the minimum means’. In his later period, Miró painted enormous
canvases, stripping down and simplifying his style, intensifying his use of colour, and
condensing his personal visual language. As always with Miró, the subject of the pain-
ting is not represented literally: instead it is suggested by a constellation of symbols.
The landscape genre provided a framework for many of Miró’s works, but in this case
the format is vertical rather than horizontal, almost suggesting a bird’s-eye view.
FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ
On loan from Gallery K.AG.

                                           November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 9
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Apse of St Clement de
 Taüll, 1123
 Fresco transferred to canvas
 620 x 360 x 180 cm
 MASTER OF TAÜLL
 This outstanding Romanesque piece is
 arguably the most emblematic artwork in
 the city. The largest work in this selection, it
 is also the oldest, although it radiates a raw
 modernity. The raw power of these colours
 and geometric forms has influenced 20th-
 century artists from Picasso to Picabia.
 While contemporary viewers may struggle
 to identify biblical scenes, the image retains
 its aura of power.
     The jagged crack that crosses the main
 image like a lightning bolt, as if illustrating
 the inscription Ego sum Lux Mundi (I am the
 Light of the World), also suggests a root, and
 the physical uprooting of the mural itself,
 which was transported from the remote
 Valley of Boí in the Catalan Pyrenees.
 MNAC
 Acquired between 1919-1923.

10 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
The Wait (Margot), 1901
 Oil on cardboard. 69.5 x 57 cm
PABLO RUIZ PICASSO (1881 – 1973)
For some a master,for others a monster,
Picasso’s influence dominates the 20th
century. His early years were characterised
by his voracious appetite for new styles,
which he assimilated and mastered with
dizzying speed,before surging forward again.
But who was Margot? Who is she waiting
for,leaning on her elbows,her glittering eyes
half-closed. Also known as The Morphine
Addict or Pierreuse (slang for prostitute),
this is a vivid image of Picasso’s first contact
with the bohemian nightlife of Paris. The
brushstrokes modelling the face are curt
and energetic; in the background they are
looser,conjuring the kaleidoscope of the nig-
ht. Mixing the influences of the pointillists,
Toulouse Lautrec and Van Gogh,it’s the work
of a young Picasso taking his first steps
towards recognition outside Spain.
MUSEU PICASSO
Acquired in 1932 by the Junta de Museus.
In 1963, when the museum was opened, it
became part of the permanent collection.

 Sock 2010 Mixed media. 2.85 m
 ANTONI TÀPIES (1923-2012)
 Antoni Tàpies made few public sculptures, but Sock is – or could have been – the excepti-
 on. In 1991, as one of Catalonia’s most prestigious living artists, he was invited to create
 a sculpture for the huge oval hall inside the museum. But the prospect of an 18m holey
 sock caused such a n outcry that the project was cancelled. In 2010, the Tàpies foundati-
 on presented a 2.85 metre version of a work that pays tribute to simple, everyday things.
 Turning a humble, functional sock into a monumental sculpture invites reflection on the
 hidden power of ordinary objects, but also on the artist’s experience of old age, a time
 when straightforward actions – like putting on a sock – become a reminder of mortality.
 FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES
 Donated by the artist in 2010.
                                                   November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 11
ALSO NOT TO
                                                 BE MISSED…
                                                 The Spanish Wedding,
                                                 1870
                                                 MARIÀ FORTUNY (1838 – 1874)
                                                 Though he died at 36, Fortuny is consi-
                                                 dered the greatest Spanish painter of
                                                 the 19th century after Goya. The state
                                                 funded his early studies in Rome, and
                                                 commissioned large-scale paintings of
                                                 the Spanish-Moroccan War of 1859. His
                                                 travels in Northern Africa made a huge
                                                 impact, turning him into one of Spain’s
                                                 greatest Romantic painters of the
                                                 Orient. After 1866 he turned to scenes
                                                 of Spanish manners and customs, such
                                                 as this one, set in a richly decorated
                                                 18th-century sacristy.
                                                     The Spanish Wedding shows off For-
                                                 tuny’s technical virtuosity, his mastery
                                                 of light and his fascination with costume
                                                 and period details. Considered the
                                                 finest example of his mature style, The
                                                 Spanish Wedding catapulted its author
                                                 to international fame.
                                                 MNAC
                                                 Acquired by public subscription in 1922.
St Mary Magdalene,
cap a l’any 1470                                 Cactus Man I, 1939
Tempera on wood 144 x 73 cm                      JULI GONZÁLEZ (1876 - 1942)
                                                 A starkly dissected body erupts into
JAUME HUGUET (1412 – 1492)
                                                 spikes, as World War II breaks out in
Virginal she may not be, but with her worldly
                                                 Europe. Juli González was a leading
and direct gaze, Mary Magdalene is here
                                                 figure in the Parisian avant-garde, and a
painted as a lady of the royal court, with the
                                                 pioneer of the use of welding and cutting
attributes of the Virgin Mary. She sits on her
                                                 techniques to create sculptures in iron.
throne, resplendent in the robes of a queen,
                                                     This fragmented figure, undergoing
holding a rosary, within a gilded frame with
                                                 its symbolic metamorphosis, breaks
fine fluted columns in the purest Catalan
                                                 with traditional ideas of symmetry,
Gothic style.
                                                 creating an interplay of contrasting
   The painting confers an air of regal
                                                 forms and suggesting a new concept of
mystery beyond that of her simple halo.
                                                 volume. In González’ cubist investiga-
The light around her face and smooth
                                                 tions he sliced and folded sheet metal,
folds of her robes show the influence of
                                                 using iron bars to ‘draw in space’ and
Italian naturalism, while the meticulous
                                                 create the wiry artworks that won him
detail draws on the Flemish tradition.
The elegance, fragility and refinement           international fame.
of his work have earned Huguet a place           MNAC
as one of the greatest Catalan Gothic            Donated by Roberta Gonzalez,the artist’s
painters.                                        daughter, in 1972,and became part of
FUNDACIÓ FRANCISCO GODIA                         the collection in 1973.
Work acquired by Francisco Godia.

12 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
Food &
  Drink
  Edited by Ricard Martín
  rmartin@timeout.cat

Luxury for less
Barcelona’s Michelin-starred chefs open the season
with luxurious new ideas that won’t break the bank.
By Ricard Martín

Black is a secret restaurant, but          neon to remind you that you’ve
they’re not trying to keep you out: you    arrived somewhere cool. Triple
don’t need to know the maitre d’s          Michelin-starred chef Paco Pérez has
mother-in-law, or mutter a secret          designed a menu of cold dishes on
password before you’re allowed in.         which, as well as straight-up caviar,
You just need to know it’s there, and      you’ll find a mouth-watering array of
ask to be shown the way in. But it’s not   dishes that feature caviar as a key
a traditional restaurant either: this is   ingredient, created with imagination
the first vodka and caviar lounge in       and a sense of humour . ‘This isn’t
Spain. In an paradoxical twist you’ll      exactly a place for sit-down suppers,’
find the most exclusive food on the        explains Pérez. ‘It’s about informal
planet, Beluga sturgeon caviar,            snacks and surprises.’ The restaurant
alongside one of the most accessible –     has an open kitchen from whose bar
you enter Black via the La Royal           the tapas and main dishes are served.
hamburger bar.                               Another chef who’s upping their
   Inside, Black is as dark and sleek as   game is Romain Fornell. In a bold
an expensive cocktail bar, with red        move, the youngest chef ever to be

14 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
Food & Drink
                                                                            TEN’S
      IVAN GIMÉNEZ

BLACK                                                                   CAELIS
awarded a Michelin star – back when       ambitions go beyond reproducing or
he was 25 – has become the first          reinventing classics like croquettes
Michelin-starred chef in Barcelona to     and patatas bravas, but he hasn’t
offer an all-in fixed price lunch menu.   gone overboard on the design. ‘I
It costs €39, at Caelis at the Palace -   didn’t want to create anything too
the most solemn dining room in the        showy. I just wanted to transfer the
city (with the possible exception of      concept of quality dining to the
Via Veneto). ‘We have to move with        world of tapas, even if we’re serving
the times,’ says Fornell, ‘if we were     dishes that never existed before,’
only serving two covers at midday, I’d    explains Cruz.
rather shut up shop.’ It’s not an           It’s unostentatious, functional and
arbitrary decision: Fornell has just      immaculately presented, with a select
taken over ownership of the               menu of only 20 tapas. Here’s a
restaurant with Alan-Pierre Benteo        challenge: spend €120 between two
and Eric Basset, and placed his stamp     and you can try them all.
on the whole business, with a new,
contemporary interior that makes a        BLACK CAVIAR LOUNGE
refreshing contrast to the bourgeois      Pl. de Camp, 5. T. 691 403 599.
gravity of the hotel.                     €20 to €100
   The third Michelin chef to shake
things up is Jordi Cruz, after winning    CAELIS
back his second star at l’Àbac. He’s      Gran Via, 668. T. 93 510 12 05.
returning to his roots with Ten’s, a      Set lunch menu: €39.
tapas bar on the site of the original
Àbac, opposite the Estació de França      TEN’S
– maintaining the original                Av. Marquès de l’Argentera, 11. T. 93
restaurant’s green tiles. His             319 60 00. About €30.

                                     November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 15
El Passatge del Murmuri
                            IIIII
Food & Drink

                       Rambla de Catalunya, 104.
                       T. 93 550 06 60. Around €30.

                       In an area over-supplied with
                       mediocre restaurants chasing the
                       tourist euro, locals are delighted
                       with the updated Passatge, the
                       Hotel Murmuri’s eatery just off
                       Rambla Catalunya.
                         Chef Giuseppe Palo and his
                       business partners Eduard Puiggròs
                       and Carolina Murtra run what was
                       originally a Thai restaurant, now
                       devoted to Mediterranean, and
                       particularly Catalan, cuisine. The
                       young, enthusiastic team pick the
                       best local, seasonal ingredients to
                       create a fresh take on classic dishes.
                       Natural light during the day and the                 THE BILL
                       subdued nocturnal lighting make El       EL PTGE. DEL MURMURI        (2 PAX)
                       Passatge the ideal location for a        1 coca with tomato            2.10
                       romantic rendezvous.                     1 ‘El Passatge’ patatas bravas 5
                         Among their innovations are            2 portions anchovies             5
                       small dishes designed to be shared –     1 portion Iberian ham           16
                       very much on trend – and the plat du     1 ‘plat du jour’             15.50
                       jour, an imported French                 1 Aranda suckling pig           19
                       institution, offering daily lunches at   1 water                          2
                       an accessible price. The wine list is    1 ice-cream selection            5
                       well thought-out, with plenty of         2 iced coffees                   3
                       variety and good value for money.        TOTAL (amb IVA)            72.60 €
                       –Marcelo Aparicio

                       ‘Cacio e pepe’
                                                                       This is the Cinderella of
                                                                       Roman cuisine, found only

                        THE DISH                                       in a certain trattorias and
                                                                       stores that sell bread and
                                                                       pasta. A dish traditionally
                                                                       eaten by shepherds as
                                                                       they watched their sheep.
                                                                       –M.A.

                                                                       SPECCHIO MAGICO
               MARIA DIAS

                                                                       Lluís Antúnez, 1.
                                                                       T. 93 217 88 24 /€16.90

                       16 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
Els Jardinets de Gràcia
                                              True to its roots Catalan cuisine that

  Hot                                         manages to be contemporary while
                                              avoiding over-sophistication and respects
                                              basic ingredients. We recommend that

  tables!                                     you set aside time to take in an extensive
                                              and frequently updated menu, including
                                              daily set lunch menus.–M.A.
                                              (Pg. de Gràcia, 116). M: Diagonal (L3).
  Edited by Marcelo Aparicio
                                              T. 93 238 48 46. €20-40.

Our themed selection                          Enoteca
of Barcelona’s best                           Seafood star Chef Paco Pérez, from
restaurants.                                  the seaside town of Llançà,wonhisfirst
                                              Michelin star in Barcelona, but he did it
By Marcelo Aparicio                           by staying true to his roots, the
                                              traditions of the fishing villages of Cap

Signature                                     de Creus, where cooks pride themselves
                                              on getting the very best from the finest

cuisine
                                              seafood. His sea cucumbers with wild
                                              mushrooms are unmissable. –R.M.
                                              (Hotel Arts, Marina, 19-21). M:
                                              Ciutadella/Vila Olímpica (L4). T. 93 483
Casa Calvet                                   81 03. Over €60.
Tradition and innovation Since
Casa Calvet opened in 1994, chef Miquel
Alija has worked to create his own style      Jaume de Provença
of cuisine, incorporating the latest          Past glories It’s worth remembering
culinary innovations into traditional         that Jaume de Provença boasted a
Mediterranean cookery. With an                Michelin star for 10 years, and that
excellent wine-cellar, this is a great city   its chef is one of the best in the city.
centre option. –MA                            Standout dishes include lobster salad or
(Casp, 48). M: Tetuan (L2). T. 93 412 40      a delicious duck breast filet mignon with
12. €40-60. Set lunch available.              orange. –M.A.
                                              (Provença, 88). M: Entença (L5). T. 93
                                              430 00 29. €30-40.
Codium
Laid-back chef Chef Juanjo
Rodríguez’s approach to cooking is            Lagar
honest and beautifully thought out.           Small restaurant, big flavours
Classics are brought up to date, with         A small restaurant that matches big
dishes like tuna tataki with wasabi ice-      ambitions with a down-to-earth
cream or his salt cod with porrusalada –      philosophy, serving a modern take on
ample proof of his savoir faire. –M.A.        traditional Catalan cuisine that puts
(Villarroel, 88). M: Urgell (L1). T. 93       fresh ingredients centre stage: a great
451 09 50. €30-40. Set lunch available.       example is the morcilla de Burgos with
                                              apple sauce. –M.A.
                                              (Llenguadoc, 6). M: Fabra i Puig (L1). T.
Tickets                                       93 346 82 70. €20-40. Set lunch
Tapas as a way of life The brothers           available.
Adrià (Ferran and Albert) have done it
again, this time with an ambitious
statement of their philosophy of tapas.       Topik
With separate zones conjuring different       Perfect fusion Chef Adelf Morales
atmospheres and flavours, from seafood        brings a breath of fresh air to the
to sweets, diners are plunged into a          Eixample, with a restaurant that stands
wildly imaginative re-invention of tapas      out from the crowd thanks to its
from all over Spain. Watermelon infused       perfectly judged fusion of Japanese
with sangria or their unique olives are       cuisine with Mediterranean culture. –M.A.
only a taste of what’s in store. –R.M.        (València, 199). M: Passeig de Gràcia
(Av. Paral·lel, 164). M: Poble Sec (L3).      (L2-L3-L4) i Provença (FGC). T. 93 451
€40-60.                                       09 23. €20-40. Set lunch available.

18 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
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Shopping
  Edited by Eugenia Sendra
  esendra@timeout.cat

Inspiring jewellery
Lucía Vergara started out making necklaces, and ended
up creating her own label, Après Ski. She’s left for
London, but her Born studio remains. By Laia Beltran
Our Garden Needs its Flowers takes      sense of the term – taking a source
its name from a 1985 album by           of inspiration and making it the
Jess Sah Bi and Peter One, songs        basis of a creative statement. She
that mix country and western with       makes it look easy, but it’s not:
traditional African tunes, folk from    creativity’s like style, you have it or
the Ivory Coast refracted through       you don’t. Lucía has both in spades.
the prism of cowboy nostalgia.             She doesn’t identify with any
They’re intoxicating melodies that      particular place: she was born, and
have a serious social message.          studied, in Valencia, and from there
Lucía Vergara has borrowed the          she made the leap to Barcelona,
title for the latest collection from    attracted by the possibility of
Après Ski – it’s her homage to the      working in fashion. Our Garden
obscure artists that have provided      Needs its Flowers is the culmination
the soundtrack to long hours in her     of a career that began out of
small studio in the Born. As she        curiosity; while working for designer
works, the only moments of              Lydia Delgado she started making
silence are the pauses between          her own necklaces. First her friends
songs, as Dirty Beaches follows         asked for them, then her friends’
Adriano Celentano, Jens Lekman          friends – the result was Après Ski.
or Dominant Legs.
    Our Garden Needs its Flowers        APRÈS SKI
isn’t Lucia Vergara’s debut, but it’s   Cotoners, 12.
her first collection in the strict      www.apresskishop.com

20 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
The double-looped Colony
necklace (€46), which combi-
nes hand-painted wood with
old glass – one of the star
pieces in the Our Garden
collection.

                                                                     Shopping
                                         One of Lucia’s favourite
                                         ‘flowers’: the Bi neckla-
                                         ce, with pastel-toned
                                         wooden shapes in
                                         various sizes (€71).

Ready to unleash
your inner astrono-
mer? The Saturno
necklace (38€) is
the one for you.

                                        Cosmic Ice Cream (37€)
                                        is one of Après Ski’s
                                        most successful pieces,
                                        layering art deco trian-
                                        gles in delicious colours
                                        and textures.

                               November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 21
Around
  Town
  Edited by Eugènia Sendra
  esendra@timeout.cat

Born to run
Want to get know to Barcelona at street level?
We suggest three ways to run the city. By Eugènia
Sendra

World decathlon champion Roger             cable car, or just walking – a good
Roca recommends that beginners start       warm-up. It’s a 1.3 km run, close to the
on the flat, and alternate walking and     castle cemetery. To extend the route,
jogging. If possible it should be green    you can simply repeat the circuit, or
– to avoid breathing in too much           for variety, try the longer version,
carbon dioxide – and central: the          following the perimeter of the castle
obvious choice is Ciutadella Park.         and the museum, passing the seaward
It’s a simple circuit, around two km       walls and the funicular station. The
in total, which starts and finishes at     second route clocks in at 2km.
the beginning of Passeig Picasso.             Barcelona’s city council recently
The route misses some of the park’s        published Barcelona Corre, by Pere
features, such as the lake or the          Bosch and Núria Blanco, which
Catalan Parliament buildings, but if       presents 23 routes for runners. It’s in
you’re left wanting more, it can easily    Catalan, but you can find three selected
be extended. Be warned: on a Sunday        routes in English at www.bcn.cat/
afternoon, the route indicated by          barcelonablog (search ‘corre’). One of
green markers will involve a lot of        the most popular routes is number 5 –
slow-moving obstacles.                     2.6 km along Avinguda Diagonal
    There are plenty of online resources   between C/ Badajoz and C/Josep Pla.
with detailed route descriptions and       You’ll have to dodge bikes and
maps – for our second challenge we         benches, but you’ll also see plenty of
suggest a simple circuit of Montjuïc.      other runners who appreciate a well-
You can get to the start point using the   finished road surface.

22 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 23
Arts
  Edited by Josep Lambies
  jlambies@timeout.cat

La Pedrera turns 100
La Pedrera, the last major work Gaudí saw to
completion, is celebrating its centenary. Before the
candles are lit, Eugenia Sendra dusts off its history.

The peephole opens, and behind the          closing them with brio. What brought
wooden doors and a wrought-iron             this well-known family of lawyers to La
grille appears Carmen Burgos Bosch.         Pedrera? ‘My father-in-law fell in love
She moved into Casa Milà in the 1950s       with it, but everyone told him it was a
and is the most high-profile of the         monstrosity, far too dark,’ she explains,
house’s four remaining residents –          in what was her husband’s bedroom.
something of a living national              She leads on to the bathroom, pointing
treasure. She is the last to receive        out all the doors – there are five – and
visitors in the original interiors that     the column in the middle of the room.
Antoni Gaudí designed in 1906, and          Her mother used to wonder out loud
despite her 81 years, is happy to show      what they had done to deserve such an
me every corner of her 300 m2 flat.         impractical bathroom.
   She says it was a wise move to follow       In the plaster of the living room
the advice of her husband, notary           wall, Gaudí created – ‘and signed,’
public Ramon Maria Roca Sastre – he         adds Carmen – a sgraffito of a cross,
told her to keep the coal-fired oven. The   the Catalan flag and a heart. She talks
kitchen cabinets are ideal, not too high    about the luminosity and the quiet
and not too low, she adds, opening and      inside the house, emphasising the

24 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
Música
importance of the natural light and the
sense of calm created by the central
light well.
   She remembers the market in the car
park, the boarding house on the first
                                            Festival
floor and the bingo hall – all businesses
started by the owners of the building
                                            del Mil·lenni
during the 1950s, to generate some
income for a work of genius that was
running at a loss. The architect Barba
Corsini renovated the loft and laundry
rooms – the space that now houses the
Espai Gaudí – to create 13 duplex
apartments. ‘It was the only full-scale

                                                                                     E. MAPPLETHORPE
modern-day reworking of one of
Gaudí’s works by a Barcelona architect
who was important in his own right,’
says Joaquim Ruiz Millet, author of a
monograph on Barba Corsini, and             Founded 14 years ago, at the end of the
director of the gallery H2O.                century – and of the millennium, hence
   Barba Corsini created parabolic          the name – this festival’s original
arches, played with curves, designed        raison d’être was to plug the gap in the
small lofts to optimize the use of space    city’s musical calendar during the last
and experimented with what he called        and the first months of the year,
‘interior architecture.’ He designed the    traditionally a live music desert. Times
lighting and the furniture. All that        have changed, and the city now has a
remains of these efficient living spaces,   steady stream of gigs to keep us warm
as striking as film sets and inhabited by   through from December to February.
the in-crowd of the period, are Francesc    But the Festival del Mil·lenni has
Català Roca’s photographs, the              grown too: this year the festival begins
architect’s drawings, some film footage     in November, and, just for comparison,
                                                                                                       Arts

and the odd newspaper report. The           last year’s festival went on well into
apartments themselves were destroyed        spring. It starts with a bang: the first
in 1995, despite an initial agreement       acts are The Divine Comedy and Patti
with the Caixa Catalunya bank –             Smith who – and this is another of the
owners of the building since 1986 – to      festival’s defining characteristics – will
preserve two of them.                       both be playing stunning venues. Neil
   The building as a whole is               Hannon will be performing The Divine
supported on columns, which means           Comedy’s back catalogue of baroque
that the façade is not load-bearing, and    pop alone, and at the piano – a format
becomes a curtain wall, allowing free       that allows him freedom to interact
distribution of the internal spaces.        with the audience – in the welcoming
Gaudí could move the façade and make        ambience of the Casino de l’Aliança in
each apartment different, and kept          Poblenou. Meanwhile Patti Smith will
trying out new ideas until the client’s     be promoting her most recent album,
patience ran out. The client in question    the magnificent Banga (2012), backed
was Rosario Segimon, a wealthy              by a four-piece band, at the Palau de la
widow who married Pere Milà, a              Música. –Marta Salicrú
developer. He promised her the finest
house on the Passeig de Gràcia, but she     THE DIVINE COMEDY
ended up paying for it. The signing of      Casino de l’Aliança.
the construction completion certificate     3 November.
was delayed until 1912, although the        PATTI SMITH
building had been completed two             Palau de la Música.
years earlier.                              19 November.

                                       November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 25
Nightlife
  Edited by Ricard Martín
  rmartin@timeout.cat

                                                                                      CARLA TRAMULLAS
Gigs beside the tracks
The spacious café at the Estació de França
re-opens as The Station, a late-night bar with live
music. By Ricard Martín
Without falling into the hoary clichés     Caballero – two crowds whose only
of cinema – brief encounters, missed       common denominator was the need
connections, last goodbyes – railway       for company and one more drink.
stations are sad places. Genuinely sad,       The Station is still the place for
sordid and grimy, with none of the         early-risers and nighthawks: it opens
romance of the silver screen: it’s all     at half past six in the morning and
lukewarm coffee, plastic-wrapped           closes at 3am. What was once an
pastries and blocked drains. By            echoing, utilitarian hall with Formica
evening the despair among the last         tables dispersed among marble
travellers is palpable, leaden eyes        columns has been converted into a jazz
glued to the departures board.             greenhouse, where 12-foot plants
   So we should all be grateful that the   disappear up towards the ceiling.
only station café in Catalonia with a      During the day snacks and lunches are
glimmer of personality, at Barcelona’s     served: early evening is the time to
grand but underused Estació de             appreciate its charm, as the only bar in
França, is opening its doors again.        Barcelona promoting late-night
With the self-explanatory moniker          clubbing with live bands.
The Station, it will warm the hearts of
locals who remember it as the place        THE STATION
where workers on the early shift           Marquès de l’Argentera, 6
downed breakfast sandwiches and            (Estació de França). T. 93 295
coffees laced with brandy, shoulder to     63 62. Mon-Fri, 6.30am-2am;
shoulder with clubbers emerging from       Fri & Sat, until 3am.
Magic and the late-lamented Woman          www.stationbarcelona.com

26 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 27
Listings
November 2012
bcnguide@timeout.cat

  Legacy of                 Patti               Festival
   Pollock                  Smith            L’Alternativa
UNTIL 24 FEB           MONDAY 19             21-25 NOV
A look at Pollock’s    Legendary NYC         Festival of
effect on artists      poet and singer       independent and
such as Warhol and     performs songs        original cinema,
Bruce Nauman. At       from new album        over four days at
the Fundació Miró.     Banga.                the CCCB.

                              November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 29
Exhibitions
                                             the La Caixa Foundation’s modern
                                             art collection revolves around these
                                             questions.

    Information and sales:
Tourist Information Points and               Can Framis.
www.barcelonaturisme.cat                     Fundació Vila Casas
                                             (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries
Arxiu Fotogràfic                             (L1), Poblenou (L4) & Llacuna (L4).
de Barcelona                                 T. 93 320 87 36. http://www.
                                             fundaciovilacasas.com/en/ Tue-Sat.,
(Pl. Pons i Clerch, 2). M: Arc de Triomf     11am-6pm. Sun, 11am-2pm. 5 € adults.
(L1) & Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 34 20.        2 € students and pensioners.
Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. Closed Sun and              Agustí Centelles. A
public holidays.                             Photographic Chronicle – The
  FREE Raval. Consuelo Bautista              Thirties. Until 10 Feb. Photographs by
Until 26 January. More than 50               renowned Catalan photojournalist
photographs documenting Barcelona’s          Agustí Centelles, documenting the last
Raval district, shot by renowned             years of the Spanish Republic, the Civil
photojournalist Consuelo Bautista            War and his years in exile.
between 2004 and 2010.
                                             Castell de Montjuïc
CaixaForum                                           (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya
(Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia,                           (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 256 44 45.
6-8). M: Espanya (L1-L3-                  To                 http://www.bcn.cat/
                                       m ar k the
FGC). T. 93 476 86 00.                                ry       castelldemontjuic/en/
www.lacaixa.es/                   25th anniver sa   a Bu s      welcome.html
obrasocial. Mon-Fri,           of the Barcelonn visit               FREE Sala del Pati
                                Tu rístic you ca
10am-8pm. Wed,                                      iagonal      d’Armes
                              th is exhibition (D     ),
10am-11pm. Sat, Sun,                 Metro Station s,            Photographs of
                                                     Bu
10am-9pm.                         combining the na               President Lluís
   FREE Before the                                 elo
                                    the FC Barc his-            Companys, 1931-1938
flood. Mesopotamia                  and the city’s             Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm.
3500-2100 B.C. From 30                      to ry.            From 15 Oct to 30 Jan.
Nov to 24 Feb. With over 400                               Photographs of Catalan
archaeological exhibits, the show                      president
explores our debt to this early Near            Lluís Companys, who was executed
Eastern civilisation.                           by Franco’s troops at Montjuïc Castle
   FREE Food justice. Sowing                    in 1940.
the Seeds of Hope Until 5 Jan.
The problems of distributing and
providing access to food across the globe CCCB. Centre de Cultura
are presented through recordings made           Contemporània de
by people living in rural communities in
Bolivia and Tanzania.                           Barcelona
   FREE The Arts of Piranesi:
Architect, Printmaker,                          (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1-L3).
Antiquarian, Painter of                         T. 93 306 41 00. www.cccb.org/en
Cityscapes and Designer From 5                  Tue-Sun & public hols, 11am-8pm.
Oct to 20 Jan. Over 250 works by the            Closed Mon. 5 €. Reduced entry for
multifaceted 18th-century Italian artist        pensioners and students on Wed (excl
Giambattista Piranesi, whose influence          public holidays): 3,40 €. Free for under
on European art and culture was                 16s, & unemployed, Thur 8-10pm &
profound.                                       Sun 3-8pm.
   FREE What to Think. What to                      El Paral·lel, 1894-1939 From
Desire. What to Do. The La Caixa                26 Oct to 24 Feb. The broad avenue
Foundation’s contemporary art                   of El Paral.lel was created during
collection. From 9 Nov to 25 August.            Barcelona’s 19th century expansion.
In confusing times it makes sense to            This exhibition describes the evolution
ask oneself: What should I think?               of a new entertainment district that
What should I desire? What should               stretched from Plaça Espanya to the
I do? This exhibition of works from             sea.

30 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
World Press Photo 2012 From
29 Nov to 6 Jan. The World Press Photo     Espai VolART-Fundació
exhibition is renowned as the biggest      Vila Casas
international showcase for
photojournalism. More than a travelling    (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona
exhibition of the best news                (L1-L4). T. 93 481 79 85. www.
photography, it’s a document of the        fundaciovilacasas.com. Tue-Fri,
year’s main stories.                       5-8.30pm, Sat, 11am-2pm &
                                           5-8.30pm. Sun, 11am-2pm. 1 €;
                                           Reduced: 50¢.
CosmoCaixa                                   Espai Volart 2 Daniel Enkaoua –
(Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo        Create/Believe 20 Sept-16 Dec.
(FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. www.lacaixa.es/    Paintings by French artist Daniel
obrasocial. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. 3 €         Enkaoua, a master of expressionist
(permanent and temporary exhibitions).     brushwork.
Reduced entry                                Víctor Pérez-Porro – ‘The
2 €. First Sun of month free.              Colours of Berlin made Shapes
       Epidemic! Until 10 February.        in my Head’ 20 Sept-12 Dec.
Exhbition explaining the causes and        Thirty works focusing on the most
cyclical nature of epidemics, and how      recent work by this contemporary artist:
they have shaped the history of            a meditation on the various elements of
humanity.                                  painting as a discipline – shape, colour
       Technorevolucion Until 6            and texture.
May. Interactive exhibition that allows
visitors to experience the evolution of
technology, with spaces dedicated to       Filmoteca de Catalunya
nanotechnology, biotechnology, IT and      (Plaça Salvador Seguí, 1). M: Liceu (L3).
cognitive sciences.                        T. 93 410 75 90. www.filmoteca.cat. 4€.
                                              El Raval. The Image of a
                                           District Tue-Sun, 4pm-9pm. Until 11
DHUB Barcelona-                            Nov. The Raval is a central district of
Pedralbes                                  Barcelona, celebrated in novels, plays
                                           and films. This exhibition explores the
(Palau Reial de Pedralbes. Av. Diagonal,   history of the area and its portrayal in
686). M: Palau Reial (L3). T. 93 256 34    film.
65. www.dhub-bcn.cat. Tue.-Sun., 10am-
6pm. Closed: 1 Jan, 1 May, 24 June, 25
& 26 Dec. 5 € (ticket valid for Disseny    Fundació Alorda-
HuB Barcelona-Montcada).                   Derksen
  DHUB - Museu de les Arts
Decoratives Permanent exhibition.          (Aragó, 314). M: Girona (L4). T. 93 272
  DHUB - Museu Tèxtil i                    62 50. www.fundacionad.com By appt. 5
d’Indumentària Permanent                   €. Reduced 3 €.
exhibition.                                   Permanent exhibition:
                                           contemporary art collection focusing on
                                           cutting-edge international artists.
DHUB Museu de
Ceràmica (Palau Reial                      Fundació Antoni Tàpies
de Pedralbes)                              (Aragó, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia
                                           (L2-L3-L4). T. 93 487 03 15. www.
(Palau Reial de Pedralbes, Avda            fundaciotapies.org. Tue-Sun, 10am-
Diagonal, 686). M: Palau Reial (L3). T.    7pm. 7 €. Students and pensioners,
93 256 34 65. www.museuceramica.bcn.       5.60 €.
cat. Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm. Public hols,         Re. Act. Feminism #2 – A
10am- 3pm. Closed Mon. 5€. Reduced:        Performing Archive 16 Nov-17 Feb.
3€.                                        A temporary and living archive of
   A Singular Garden. Ceramics             performance art, which will travel
from Iznik, in the 16th and 17th           Europe from 2011 to 2013, presenting
centuries. From 10 Oct to 3 March. A       feminist, gendercritical and queer
journey through the unique and             performance art by over 120 artists and
beautiful ceramics of Iznik (Turkey),      artist collectives from the 1960s to the
which are characterized by their ornate    beginning of the 1980s, as well as
floral decorations.                        contemporary positions.

                                       November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 31
Francisco Godia                                  La Pedrera
(Diputació, 250). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2-      (Provença, 261-265). M: Provença
L3-L4). T. 93 272 31 80. www.                    (FGC) & Diagonal (L3-L5). T. 902 400
fundacionfgodia.org. Mon-Sun, 10am-              973. www.lapedrera.com. Mon-Sun,
8pm. Closed Tue 6.50 €, Reduced 3.25 €.          9am-6.30pm (last admission: 6pm)
   Palazuelo. Lines and planes in                16.50 €. Reduced 14.85 €.
space. 9 Oct to 6 Jan. The conceptual               Exhibition Hall The other
discoveries and geometric procedures             Pedreres. Architecture and
that enabled sculptor and painter Pablo          furniture of the twentieth century
Palazuelo (1915-2007) to turn the shapes         13 Nov-24 Feb. 3 €. To commemorate the
of his private geometry into works in            centenary of La Pedrera, this wide-
aluminum and steel.                              ranging exhibition features buildings
                                                 from the same period.
Fundació Joan Miró
(Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya              MACBA Museu d’Art
(L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. www.               Contemporani
fundaciomiro-bcn.org. Tue-Sat, 10am-
8pm. Thu, 10am-9.30pm, Sun & public (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat
holidays 10am-2.30pm. Closed                     (L1-L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 412
Mondays. 10 €. Espai 13, 2.50 €.                 08 10. www.macba.cat. Mon- Fri, 11am-
   Explosion! The legacy                             8pm. Sat 10am-8pm. Sun & public
of Jackson Pollock                     La                holidays, 10am-3pm. Tues. closed,
From 24 Oct to 24 Feb.            Fundació                 except public holidays. Whole
With works by artists               Godi    a                museum ticket, 8 € (reduced
                                     ta ció  , 25 0)
from the late 40s to the      (Dipu               int er      6.5 €). Single exhibition ticket,
present day, including      looks  at  ho  w   pa             6 € (reduced, 4,50 €).
                                                   blo
Pollock, Andy                and sculptor Pa     ed his          Utopia is possible –
Warhol & Yves Klein.        Palazuelo turnstem                ICSID. Eivissa, 1971 Until
                               geom   et ric  sy
   Espai 13 Jordi                                  e of       20 Jan. Utopia is Possible.
Mitjà - Monument.             into works mad d               Documentary material,
                                 alu m  inum an
Wire thieves. 5 Oct-2                  steel.              photographs and films from the
Dec. A site-specific                                     MACBA’s own collection,
sculpture created for Espai                           commemorating the VII Congress of
13.                                              the International Council of Societies of
                                                 Industrial Design (ICSID).
                                                    Nasrin Tabatabai & Babak
Fundació Suñol                                   Afrassiabi. ‘Seep’ 1 Oct to 20 Jan.
(Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal             First Spanish exhibition by two Iranian
(L3-L5). T. 93 496 10 32 . www.                  artists, based on their Two Archives:
fundaciosunol.org Mon-Sat 4pm-8pm.               their project exploring processes of
Closed 3-27 September.                           modernisation in the 20th century.
       Fifth anniversary of the
Josep Suñol collection 28
Sept-9 Mar. Exhibition to mark the               MEAM Museu Europeu
Suñol Foundation’s fifth anniversary,            d’Art Modern
with works by more than 70 artists
including Picasso, Dalí, Tàpies,                 (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). T.
Warhol, Boetti and Man Ray.                      93 319 56 93. www.meam.es. Tue-Sun,
       Nivell Zero Documents and                 10am-8pm. 7 €. Reduced 5 €.
memory: The Josep Suñol                                  21st century contemporary
collection archive Until 2 Mar.                  art Almost 200 paintings and 30
                                                 sculptures featuring works by figurative,
                                                 realist or hyperrealist artists from all over
Jardí Botànic                                    the world.
(Doctor Font i Quer, s/n). M: Espanya
(L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. www.
museuciencies.bcn.cat. Oct-March; daily, MIBA Museu d’Idees
10am-6pm.                                        i Invents de Barcelona
   Masia del Jardí Botànic Savia
Roja Mon-Fri 10am-2pm. Until 30 Nov. (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93
Watercolours by Mexican artist Tatiana 332 79 30. www.mibamuseum.com.
Musi.                                            Tue-Fri., 10am-2pm & 4-7pm. Sat,

32 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
11am-8pm. Sun & public holidays,               21 22. www.museuhistoria.bcn.cat.
10am-2pm. 7 €.                                 Tues-Sat, 10-19 h. Sun, 10am-8pm
      The Barcelona Museum of                  (Sun free after 3pm). Sun and Mon
Ideas and Inventions Permanent                 before public holidays, 10am-2pm.
exhibition.                                    Closed Mon. 7 €. Under-16s free.
                                                     Saló del Tinell Indianes. Els
                                               orígens de la Barcelona industrial,
MNAC Museu Nacional                            1736-1847 Until 16 December. The
d’Art de Catalunya                             mass-production of calico prints or
                                               ‘indianes’ galvanised the economic life of
(Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya                 Barcelona.
(L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. www.                   MUHBA Laboratory.
mnac.cat. Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm. Sun &             Collecting the city Until 1 April.
public holidays, 10am-2.30pm. 10 €.
Temporary exhibitions: consult website.
       Permanent collection: The               MUHBA Park Güell
largest collection of Catalan art from the     (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). T. 93 256
Romanesque to the mid-19th century.            21 22. www.museuhistoria.bcn.cat.
   FREE The Museum Investigates.               From 1 April until 30 Sept: Mon-Sun
Works of Art under Scrutiny 23                 10am-8pm. From 1 Oct until 31 March:
Nov-24 Feb. Showing the vicissitudes           Mon-Sun, 10am-6pm. 2€
and modifications undergone by some                   Permanent exhibition
of the museum’s artworks, and the ways
experts distinguish between an original,
a copy, a forgery or a restoration.            MUHBA Refugi 307
                                               (Nou de la Rambla, 169). M: Jaume I (L1-L4).
                                               T. 93 256 21 00. www.museuhistoria.bcn.
MUHBA El Call                                  cat. Sat. & Sun., 10am-2pm, by
(Placeta de Manuel Ribé). M: Liceu (L3)        appointment. Public holidays, closed. 3 €.
& Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 21 22. www.                 Permanent exhibition. In
museuhistoria.bcn.cat. Tue-Fri, 11am-          these 400 metres of underground
2pm. Sat, Sun, 11am-7pm. Sun and               passageways, visitors can relive the
Mon before public holidays, 10am-2pm.          uncertainty of a city which, during the
Closed Monday. 2 €.                            Civil War, was subject to a new form of
       Salomó ben Adret (1235-                 warfare:.
1310). The Triumph of an
Orthodoxy Until 31 December. Salomó
ben Adret, also known as the Rashba,           MUHBA Santa Caterina
was a Catalan Jewish leader and Rabbi at       (Pl. de Joan Capri). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). T.
the main synagogue of Barcelona during         93 256 21 22. www.museuhistoria.bcn.
the late 13th and early 14th centuries.        cat. Mon-Sat., 10am-2pm. Sun. & Public
                                               holidays, closed.
                                                       Permanent exhibition. Inside
Museu Monestir                                 Santa Caterina Market, this exhibition
de Pedralbes                                   describes the significant events in
                                               Barcelona’s history.
(Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina
Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34 . www.
museuhistoria.bcn.cat Tues-Fri, de 10am-       MUHBA Vil·la Joana.
5pm. Sun, 10am-7pm. Sun, 10am-8pm              Casa Verdaguer
(Sun, free after 3pm). Sun 10am-2pm.
Closed Monday. 7 €. Reduced 5 €. Under         (Ctra de l’Església, 104. Vallvidrera). T.
16s, Barcelona Card, free entry.               93 204 78 05. www.museuhistoria.bcn.
        Paintings from the Sant                cat. Sat & Sun, 10am-2pm. Tue-Wed,
Miquel Chapel Until 31 December.               groups (by appt) only . Closed Mon.
Paintings from the chapel of Sant                      Permanent exhibition The
Miquel, a 14th-century Gothic                  poet Jacint Verdaguer, one of the great
masterpiece.                                   figures in the revival of Catalan as a
                                               literary language, spent the last years of
                                               his life in this 19th century villa.
MUHBA Museu
d’Història de Barcelona                        Museu Blau
(Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256      (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc del

                                            November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 33
Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T.
93 256 60 02. www.museuciencies.bcn.        Museu del Futbol Club
cat Tue-Sun & public holidays, 10am-        Barcelona
8pm. Closed Mon. 6 €. Museum &
Botanical Gardens, 7 €.                     (Arístides Maillol, s/n. FCB stadium.
   Aliens: Exotic Species Invade.           Access gates 7 or 9). M: Les Corts (L3).
Until 31 Jan. How do invasive species       T. 902 18 99 00. www.fcbarcelona.cat.
arrive in an ecosystem, and what are the    From 2 April to 7 Oct: Mon-Sat, 10am –
consequences?                               8pm. Sun & public holidays, 10am-
Espai Terra: The Catalonia You              2.30pm. 8 Oct – 1 April: Mon-Sat.,
Know Until 31 Jan. Photographs of           10am – 6.30pm. Sun &/ public holidays,
remote areas, unusual land formations,      10am – 2.30pm. Camp Nou Tour
flora, fauna and meteorology –              available until one hour before museum
everything that relates to the geography    closing time. 22 €. Children 16.50 €.
of the Catalan-speaking regions.            Under 6s and FCB members, free
                                                   Permanent exhibition. The
                                            Camp Nou Experience. Discover 100
Museu de Badalona                           years of the club’s history, visit different
(Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1).            zones of the Camp Nou and relive the
Badalona. M: Pep Ventura (L2). T.           club’s greatest moments in the
93 384 17 50. www.museudebadalona.          multimedia zone.
cat Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sun
& public holidays, 10am-2pm. 6 €.
  Permanent exhibition Tue-Fri,             Museu del Modernisme
5-8pm, Sat & Sun, 10am-2pm. Until           Català
31 Dec. A display of objects that were in
daily use in Badalona more than 2,000       (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2-
years ago.                                  L3-L4). T. 93 272 28 96. www.mmcat.
                                            cat. Mon-Sat., 10am . 8pm Sun & public
                                            holidays, 10am-2pm. 10 €.
Museu de l’Eròtica                                Permanent Exhibition
(La Rambla, 96, bis). M: Catalunya
(L1-L3). T. 93 318 98 65. www.erotica-
museum.com. June-Sept: Mon-Fri,             Museu Egipci
10am-9pm. Oct-May: Mon-Sun,10am-            (València, 284). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2-
8pm. Adults 9 €. Reduced 8 €.               L3-L4). T. 93 488 01 88. www.museuegipci.
  Permanent exhibition This                 com. Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Sun, 10am-
season the Erotic Museum has                2pm. Adults 11 €. Reduced, 8 €.
inaugurated its ‘Garden of the Senses’ –           Permanent exhibition
an open-air exhibition at the heart of
Barcelona.
                                            Museu Frederic Marès
                                            (Plaça de Sant Iu, 5). M: Liceu (L3) &
Museu de la Moto                            Jaume I (L4). T. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat,
de Barcelona                                10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays,
                                            11am-8pm. Closed Mon except public
(Carrer de la Palla, 10). T. 933 186        holidays. 4.20 €.
584. www.museumoto.com. Tues-Sat,             Vilató (1921-2000). Barcelona-
10am-2pm & 4.30pm-8.30pm. Sun 10am-         Paris. A Road to Freedom: In
2pm. Closed Mon. 6 €. Reduced entry: 4 €.   Bronze Until 30 September. Work by
      The Montjuïc International            painter, sculptor and engraver Xavier
24 hour race Until 30 June. Paying          Vilató, Picasso’s nephew.
homage to a race which was held for
32 years, from 1955 to 1986.
                                            Museu Olímpic i de
Museu de la Música                          l’Esport Joan Antoni
(Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1) &            Samaranch
Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. www.
museumusica.bcn.cat Mon-Sat.,               (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M:
10am-6pm. Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed             Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 292 53
Tues. 4 €. Reduced 3 €. Free admission      79. www.museuolimpicbcn.cat. Tues-
Sun afternoon.                              Sat 10am-8pm. Sun & public holidays,
   Permanent exhibition                     from 10 a 14.30 h. 4.50 €. Students,

34 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
2.60 €. Under-14s free. Over-65s free.
      III International Award for            Virreina Centre
Watercolours and Other Works                 de la Imatge
on Paper. Theme: Sport 6 Sept-
21Dec. Works from the award                  (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93
shortlist.                                   316 10 00. www.bcn.cat/
                                             virreinacentredelaimatge Tue-Sun,
                                             noon-8pm.
Museu Picasso                                   Aïm Deüelle Lüski. Residual
(Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume I (L4). T.       images. Documentary
93 256 30 00. www.museupicasso.bcn.          photography in dark times 23 Oct-
cat. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon           13 Jan. Since the 1970s, Photographer
(except public holidays). 11 € (combined     Aïm Deüelle Lüski has invented an
ticket for museum + temporary exhibition).   enormous variety of cameras and this
Temporary exhibition only: 6 €.              exhibition shows how he has used them.
   Picasso’s ceramics: a gift from
Jacqueline to Barcelona 26 Oct -1
April. Exhibition featuring 41 original
ceramic works by Picasso to celebrate the
30th anniversary of their donation by
                                             Theatre
Jacqueline Picasso to Barcelona.
   Vilató (1921-2000). Barcelona-            El Molino
Paris. A road to freedom: People             (Vilà i Vilà, 99). www.elmolinobcn.com.
Until 11 Nov. Work by painter, sculptor      M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Advance: www.
and engraver Xavier Vilató, Picasso’s        elmolinobcn.com.
nephew, who was instrumental in                El Molino lifts the spirit Thur-
securing a significant donation of the       Sun., 6.30 pm. 33 €.
artist’s works for the museum.                 A risqué show that looks back
                                             over the history of the legendary El
                                             Molino theatre, with feathers and
Palau Robert                                 sequins, vintage entertainment and a
(Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal            generous dose of humour and audience
(L3-L5). T. 93 238 80 91. www.gencat.        participation.
cat/probert. Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm.                El Molino Burlesque Fever
Sun & public holidays, 10am-2.30pm.          Thur-Sun 9.30pm. 33 €.
   FREE Jardí Catalunya Experience             Sensual, daring and provocative
5 Oct-18 Nov. Photographs of Catalonia       burlesque.
by its people.
   FREE Sala 4 Catalan: a language
for everyone. 30 years of                    Teatre Gaudí Barcelona
language policy 21 Nov-5 Jan.                (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120).
Celebration of thirty years of campaigns     T. 93 603 51 52. www.teatregaudi
to raise awareness and promote the use       barcelona.com. M: Sagrada Família
of Catalan.                                  (L2-L5) & Sant Pau/Dos de Maig (L5).
   FREE Sala 3 Ferran Adrià & El             David & Sara by Ever Blanchet. Tue &
Bulli – Risk, Freedom and                    Wed, 8.45pm. 18 €. From 7 August.
Creativity Until 3 Jan. The creative         In Spanish. A love story set in a time of
genius of Ferran Adrià, probably the         fear, dogma, repression, uncertainty,
most influential chef in the world,          betrayal and cruelty.
whose talent and flair for innovation           Our Personal Champions
have turned 21st-century gastronomy          league by Cristina Clemente. Dir:
upside-down.                                 Cristina Clemente. With Alícia Puertas
   FREE Salas 1 & 2 Photographs              and Santi Ricart . Thurs-Sat, 10.15pm.
from the New York Times                      Sun., 8pm. 18 €. Until 2 Dec. In Catalan.
Magazine 28 Sept-2 Dec. An                      The social and family pressures on a
examination of the nature of                 young couple of an age where they are
photography at a crucial moment in the       contemplating parenthood can be
development of the printed press.            almost unbearable.
   FREE Mossos d’Esquadra. The
Second Republic and the Civil
War. 1931-1939 2 Oct-18 Nov The              Teatre Lliure: Gràcia
history of the Catalan regional police       (Montseny, 47). T. 93 238 76 25. www.
force from its origins to the present        teatrelliure.com. M: Fontana (L3) &
day.                                         Joanic (L4).

36 Time Out BCN Guide November 2012
Ivan and the Dogs by Hattie
Naylor. Dir: Pau Carrió. With Pol López.
Wed-Fri 8.30pm. Sat., 5.30pm & 9pm.
Sun., 6pm. From €19 to 28. From 21-25
                                            Dance
Nov. In Catalan.
   Dramatic monologue based on              Gran Teatre del Liceu
a true story by British playwright          (La Rambla, 51-59). T. 93 485 99 00 .
Hattie Naylor.                              www.liceubarcelona.cat. M: Liceu (L3).
   Trial of a Whore by Miguel del Arco.        Prague National Ballet ‘The
Dir: Miguel del Arco. Amb Carmen            Nutcracker, a Christmas Tale’
Machi. 60. Tue-Fri., 8.30pmp. Sat., 9pm.    Thur & Fri, 8 pm. Sat, 8 & 9pm. Sun,
Sun., 6pm. From €21.30 to 30.25. 28         5 pm. From €19 to 125.50. 22-25 Nov.
Nov-16 Dec. In Spanish.                        Hungarian choreographer Youri
   Dramatic monologue about Helen of        Vámos brings the well-loved tale
Troy, the woman accused of causing          to life.
the most famous of the ancient wars.
                                            Mercat de les Flors
Teatre Lliure: Montjuïc                     (Lleida, 59). T. 93 426 18 75. www.
(Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46). T. 93           mercatflors.cat. M: Espanya (L1-L3-
289 27 70 . www.teatrelliure.com. M:        FGC) & Poble Sec (L3).
Espanya (L1-L3-FGC)&i Poble Sec (L3).          Head Sat & Sun, 8.30pm. €6. 3 &
   30-40 Livingstone by Sergi López         4 Nov
& Jorge Picó. With Jorge Picó & Sergi          Daniel Abreu’s latest work is about
López. 60. Tue-Fri., 8.30pm. Sat., 9pm.     drops.
Sun., 6pm. From €21.30-30.25. 31 Oct           Icosahedron Sat & Sun., 20.30 h.
-18 Nov. In Catalan                         6 €. 10 & 11 Nov.
  A loquacious, contradictory,                 Tânia Carvalho and twenty dancers.
contemporary character, deeply                 Little Me + Loser Kings Thur &
unsatisfied with his life, decides to       Fri., 7pm. 6 €. 8 & 9 Nov.
give it all up and go in search of             Eulàlia Ayguadé & Young Jin Kim
adventures.                                 in collaboration with circus performer
                                            Joan Català.
                                               The Strange Thing is That
Teatre Nacional                             We’re Alive Sat & Sun., 7pm. 6 €. 10
de Catalunya                                & 11 Nov.
                                               Patricia Caballero, from Cádiz,
(Pl. de les Arts, 1). T. 93 306 57 00.      presents her latest work.
www.tnc.cat. M: Glòries (L1) i                 Slipping through my fingers
Monumental (L2).                            Thur & Fri., 8.30 pm. 6 €. 8 & 9 Nov.
   La Bête by David Hirson (translated         Swedish choreographer Helena
by Joan Sellent). Dir: Sergi Belbel. Wed-   Franzén investigates the poetry of
Fri., 8pm. Ds., 9.30pm. Sun 6pm. From       the body.
19.50 to 38.09 €. Until 25 Nov. In
Catalan.
   Composed in verse in the style           Teatre Gaudí Barcelona
of Moliere, ‘La Bête’ was a huge hit        (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). T.
on Broadway and in the West End.            93 603 51 52. www.
   MCBTH (Macbeth) based on the             teatregaudibarcelona.com. M:
play by William Shakespeare. Dir: Àlex      Sagrada Família (L2-L5) & Sant Pau/
Rigola. Wed & Fri., 8pm. Thur 5pm or        Dos de Maig (L5).
8pm. Sat 9.30pm. Sun 6pm. From 15.69            Happy Ha Ha Dir: Mercedes
to 31.37 €. Oct . Until 18 Nov. In          Boronat. Sat 6pm. Sun noon. 9 €.
Catalan.                                      Dance show for the whole family.
   Aloose adaptation of Shakespeare’s

                                                   INFORMATION
Scottish play by one of Catalan
theatre’s most controversial and
creative directors.
   Ras! Wed, Thur, Fri., 10.30am., Sat
6pm, Sun, 12pm, From 8.96 to 13.44 €.                AND SALES
7-25 Nov
   A show that mixes theatre, dance          Tourist Information Points and
and visual arts.                              www.barcelonaturisme.cat

                                       November 2012 Time Out BCN Guide 37
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