ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites

 
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ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
Summer 2020

          ALPE       Seiser Alm Magazine
CASTELROTTO · SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR · FIÈ ALLO SCILIAR · SEISER ALM · TIRES AL CATINACCIO

                                                           Dolomites
                                                           Mountain life

                                                           Garden
                                                           Joy and dedication

                                                           Art project
                                                           Kostner‘s “Sasmujel“
ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
zallinger.com
                                                                                                                            Editorial & Contents

                                                 Has time come to
                                                 a standstill here?

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Photo: Helmuth Rier
                                                                                                                            Dear guests!
                                                                                                                            Endless options, exhilarating        heights of almost 3,000 metres      In addition to important infor-        Page 4
                                                                                                                            adventures, the mountain life…       to take over the mountain hut       mation about public services,          Ski racer Peter Fill brings
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            his career to a close
                                                                                                                            Hiking and climbing, paragliding     Rifugio Passo Santner in the he-    you will find a wealth of tips on
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Page 6
                                                                                                                            and swimming, savouring the ta-      art of the fairytale lands of the   the best restaurants, restau-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Where life buds, blossoms and
                                                                                                                            stes of traditional fare and rela-   Catinaccio. And on the spor-        rants, meeting places and shop-        blooms: Farmhouse gardens
                                                                                                                            xing in a hay-bath: In the holiday   tier side of things, professional   ping opportunities in the villa-       seen from above
                                                                                                                            area Seiser Alm, your holiday        mountain biker Franz Hofer tells    ges of Castelrotto, Siusi allo         Page 14
                                                                                                                            prospects are boundless.             us how his life’s passion became    Sciliar, Fiè allo Sciliar, Seiser      Art in the Dolomites:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Hubert Kostner’s “Sasmujel”
                                                                                                                                                                 his career, and shares his insi-    Alm and Tires al Catinaccio.
                                                              OR ARE WE                                                     Read on, and enjoy the fasci-        ghts into life as a biking pro.     This magazine will also provide
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Page 18
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Franz Hofer, pro on pedals
                                                          JUST A STEP AHEAD?                                                nating variety of articles in this                                       you with a detailed events pro-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Page 24
                                                                                                                            issue: Where life buds, blo-         Have you always wondered why        gramme, information on all the         Two young mountain hut
                                                                                                                            oms and blossoms: Join us on a       so many people wear a blue          top cultural and sociable highli-      hosts on the Catinaccio
                                                                                                                            bird’s eye flight over the extra-    apron in this area? ALPE will       ghts this summer, and a sneak          Page 30
                                                                                                                            ordinary, lovingly-tended gar-       share the secrets with you as       preview of the winter 2020/21          Saffron cultivation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            in Siusi allo Sciliar
                                                                                                                            dens - the stunning spectacle of     we lead you on a journey into       calendar.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Page 34
                                                                                                                            shape and colour will take your      a world of living tradition and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            The blue apron: Emblem of the
                                                                                                                            breath away. You’ll also find out    much-loved heritage. What is        We hope you enjoy this edition         industrious South Tyrolean
                                                                                                                            how two sisters in Siusi allo Sci-   the story behind the “Sasmujel”     and wish you a wonderful, un-          Page 38
                                                              ZALLINGER                                                     liar are making saffron cultiva-     stone wrapped in brightly colou-    forgettable stay, filled with rela-    Arnold Tribus portrays
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            artist Willy Valier
                                                                                                                            tion possible here in our holiday    red climbing ropes at the foot of   xation and joy.
                                                   MOUNTAIN HOLIDAYS AND RESTAURANT                                         area.                                the Sassolungo? Artist Hubert                                              Page 44
                                                                                                                                                                 Kostner from Castelrotto invi-                                             Pear jam with saffron
MARKENFEE – Foto: Benno Prenn

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Page 46
                                                                                                                            “Going higher“: Dedicated            tes you to share in the excite-     Eduard Tröbinger Scherlin
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Highlights in summer 2020
                                                                                                                            young hut owners Michel and          ment of this fascinating artistic   President for Seiser Alm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Page 48
                                                                                                                            Romina aim to “go high” in the       project.                            Marketing and the Tourist
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Winter 2020/21 preview
                                                                                                                            truest sense of the word, and are                                        Offices of Castelrotto, Siusi
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Page 50
                                                                                                                            delighted to tell you what inspi-    ALPE - your holiday companion       allo Sciliar, Fiè allo Sciliar, Sei-   Seen and heard
                                                                                                                            red them to head up to the dizzy     in our holiday area Seiser Alm!     ser Alm and Tires al Catinaccio
                                                           Florian lift    TRAIL NO. 9 (6 mins)
                                HOW DO I GET THERE?
                                                           Saltria 74      Hotel Tirler – TRAIL NO. 9 (1 hr and 15 mins.)                                                                                                                             Summer | ALPE 3
ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
Thank you, Peter!
                           One of the true greats has left
                           the winter stage: Peter Fill,
                           ski racer from Castelrotto
                           competed in his last World
                           Cup event in February 2020.

                           He will always remain a role
                           model in the sports world,
                           and will be remembered both
                           for his modesty and obliging
                           demeanour and as an athlete
                           who gave his all to pursuing
                           success in his impassioned
                           career as a ski racer right up
                           until the very end.

                           Thank you, Peter Fill, for all
                           the thrills and excitement
                           you have given us over the
                           years!

The speed specialist
and ambassador
for the Seiser Alm
retired from his skiing
career this past winter.

4 ALPE | Summer                                       Summer | ALPE 5
ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
Brigitte Kompatscher‘s farm garden
at the Moarhof in Fiè allo Sciliar,
where nature lives in harmony with itself.

                                                         Where life
                                                         buds, blossoms
                                                         and blooms
                                                          A garden, despite all the time and dedication it entails,
                                                          is a source of immense joy: It give youfresh vegetables,
                                                          sweet berries and brightly coloured flowers but, above all,
                                                          it fills you with satisfaction. ALPE took a look at a few
                                                          gardens from a slightly unusual perspective.

                                             I
                                             If you take a stroll through the villages and hamlets
                                             in the holiday area Seiser Alm in spring, summer or
                                             autumn, the wonderment never ends: In front of
                                             the farmhouses, sunflowers several metres in hei-
                                             ght stretch up from the gardens into the balmy air,
                                             while leeks and onions intersperse with the pinks,
                                             violets and yellows of aster, lady’s mantle and iris.

                                             The garden is normally the domain of the farming
                                             women and housewives, and life in most farms
                                             and family homes in South Tyrol would be unima-
                                             ginable without this abundantly fertile patch of
                                                                                                     Text: Elisabeth Augustin
                                             land. However, the single concept of THE garden »       Photo: Helmuth Rier

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ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
The Malfertheiner family
tend their garden at the
Oberpstosser in S. Valentino
with the greatest of love
and devotion.
                               simply does not exist; every garden is different.
                               They come in different shapes, sizes and colours
                               and vary in location, choice of plants and the rea-
                               son for planting them. Every garden is also home
                               to much-welcomed insectsbut on the other hand                                                                                                                                                                                     Valentin Mayrl and
                               also to bugs that pose a potential threat to the ve-                                                                                                                                                                              his dog Dana spend so
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 many precious moments
                               getables and herbs.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 together in their garden
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 in Telfen.
                               These gardens are a lovingly tended wellspring of                                                                                                                          beautiful exemplar of natural heritage and a com-
                               peace and of energy. Sometimes they are the epi-                                                                                                                           mon sight in the mountainous reaches of South
                               tome of orderliness, and sometimes they sprout                                                                                                                             Tyrol. Located along the footpath leading to the
                               forth wilder blossoms of breathtaking beauty.                                                                                                                              Laghetto di Fiè lake, Brigitte’s garden brings joy
                               Unlike large-scale cultivation, family vegetable pa-       always easy to tell which of these are foodstuffs                                                               to plant-loving souls right through to the autumn.
                               tches and gardens are home to an incredible range          and which are decorative –the two are not always                                                                Alongside chives, parsley, celery, onions, lettuce,
                               of vegetables, herbs, flowers and plants which, ge-        mutually exclusive. On looking over the fence and                                                               bell peppers, beans, carrots and tomatoes, Bri-
                               nerally speaking, provide for self-sufficiency.            into what lies beyond, the attentive observer will                                                              gitte also grows blackcurrants and strawberries.
                                                                                          discover an immense wealth of species, and it is                                                                Her own home-sown seeds shine in resplendent
                               The trend of the moment is the rediscovery of old          well worth taking some time to enjoy a closer look                                                              radiance, a composition of shades and hues set off
                               varietals, and an increasing awareness of their va-        at this mini cosmos.                                                                                            by the backdrop of the Schlern: Zinnias, asters, ma-
                               lue has encouraged younger generations of farmers                                                                 “Yes, our garden is definitely a typical farmer’s gar-   rigolds, cosmea flowers, sunflowers together with
                               to opt for local varieties; this tendency is not only of   For ALPE magazine, photographer Helmuth Rier           den” says Brigitte Wörndle Kompatscher, farming          tendrils of pink and lilac creeping their way up the
                               benefit for the humanity and the natural world, but        set his drone off on flight to get a bird’s eye view   lady at the Moarhof in Fiè allo Sciliar, explaining      fencing.
                               imparts a tremendous sense of joy in growing one’s         of the most unusual gardens. And when seen from        that it is home to both flowers and vegetables.
                               own food. Newer varietals also thrive in a number          above, the vision of shapes and colours is nothing     This style of garden is normally surrounded by lar-      Amidst a vast stretch of green land on the southern
                               of traditional gardens and, at first glance, it is not     short of breathtaking.                                 ch-wood picket fencing known as ‘Speltenzaun,’ a         slopes of S. Valentino, a large garden comes into »

8 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Summer | ALPE 9
ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
nods in agreement – she knows how much the gar-           ter instantly.” In summer months, the front of the
                                                                                                                                                 den means, and gives, to her Valentin.                    house is nice and shady at lunchtime, and that is
                                                                                                                                                                                                           when Edeltraud can take a short break and relax in
                                                                                                                                                 At the Psoar-Hof in S. Valentino, which dates back        her garden. She grows mainly vegetables behind
                                                                                                                                                 to the year 1350, the garden is indubitably the re-       the old wooden fence, where passers-by never fail
                                                                                                                                                 alm of farming woman Edeltraud Rabanser Rung-             to stop and behold in amazement: carrots cour-
                                                                                                                                                 galdier. “I do everything here,” she says. “This is the   gettes, lettuce, leeks, red cabbage, green cabbage,
                                                                                                                                                 best, and most relaxing, job on the farm. Whenever        chard, onions, parsley, chives and garlic escorted
                                                                                                                                                 I’m agitated I retreat to my garden, and I feel bet-      by an array of traditional herbs including thyme,
                                                                                                                                                                                                           marjoram and basil, and blackberries, which Edel-
                                                                                                                                                                                                           traud boils up into mouthwatering jams. The vege-
                                                                                                                                                                                                           tables are served up on the table to feed the family
                                                                                                                                                                                                           of five every day, and the leeks are frozen for use
                                                                                                                                                                                                           during the winter months. This farm is also home to
                                                                                                                                                                                                           another interesting aside: The potatoes are stored
                                                                                                                                                                                                           in an enormous cellar, which, in the days when the
                                                                                                                                                                                                           farm belonged to the Castelvecchio Castle, housed
                                                                                                                                                                                                           a dungeon.

                                                                                                                                                                                                           Maria Wörndle Rier tends a rare sight indeed in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                           centre of Castelrotto: a round garden. “My gar-
                                                                                                                                                                                                           den used to be square, like all the other gardens
                                                                                                                                                                                                           in the area,” the 90 year-old Maria tells us. When
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Maria Rier’s garden in
                                                                                                                                                                                                           her grandson became a gardener he designed the »       Castelrotto town centre is
In her garden at the Psoar-Hof
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  an all-round joy. Having your
in S. Valentino, farming lady
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  own garden calls for dedication
Edeltraud devotes her energies
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  and, above all, a lot of time.
to “the best and most relaxing
job on the farm.”
                                 view near the Oberpstosser-Hof farm. “Carrots,
                                 cabbage, red cabbage, runner beans, beetroot,
                                 Brussels sprouts, broccoli, onions, garlic, pum-
                                 pkin, red and yellow potatoes, tomatoes, cucumber
                                 and courgettes all grow here,” enumerates Anna
                                 Menghin Malfertheiner; “We grow everything or-
                                 ganically.” Her daughter Jolanda, who shares her
                                 mother’s love for nature, is an enthusiastic assi-
                                 stant, and is trying to grow sweet potatoes. “The
                                 vegetables are for our own sustenance. Anything
                                 that we don’t eat fresh, we freeze or preserve in
                                 jars,” explains Anna, a trained cook. “All of our se-
                                 eds are organic, and we buy them from the Pfle-         den!” His kingdom is the “Ziuger Anger” in Tel-
                                 gerhof farm. The garden is a lot of work, but it is     fen, Castelrotto, where he spends a great deal of
                                 a great joy.”                                           time every day “mostly getting rid of the beetles
                                                                                         from the potatoes,” he laughs. He also has to spray
                                 When you pass by his house, you will nearly always      them to prevent blight, and uses dung to fertilise
                                 catch sight of Valentin Mayrl working busily in his     the land. After he has dug the ground in spring,
                                 small field alongside the Siusi to Castelrotto road.    Valentin puts in his vegetables , he says, quoting
                                 Potatoes, broad beans and onions thrive and flou-       an old proverb: “Setzt mich im April, kimm i, wenn
                                 rish in his lands, and weeds don’t stand a chance       i will; setzt mich im Mai, kimm i glei” (“Plant me in
                                 – Valentin works hard to make sure of that. His         April and I’ll grow at my own will, plant me in May,
                                 dog Dana is always by his side when retiree Valen-      and I’ll grow straight away”). Valentin Mayrl wor-
                                 tin crosses the street from his house to his nearby     ked as a builder for 36 years, but is convinced that
                                 field and gives the command: “We’re off to the gar-     he would have made a great farmer. His wife Frieda

10 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Summer | ALPE 11
ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
round garden, and it has gone on to become, so to        fine and Marialuise Planer rarely have the time for
                                 speak, an all-round joy that gives the sprightly old     a chat when they meet there, as there is so much
                                 lady a lot of fun. In addition to basil, celery, chi-    work to be done. “But we can always see what is
                                 ves, onions, beetroots, endives, Brazilian lettuce,      growing and thriving in each other’s patch,” smi-
                                 cucumber and courgettes, Maria also grows a vast         les Josefine, who lives on the farm. Knowing and,
                                 array of flowers, with roses, dahlias and asters brin-   above all, feeling that the sister in the other part
                                 ging a vibrant glow to the garden in the warmer          of the garden is also busy tending and nurturing, is
                                 months. When she is out weeding, Maria particu-          a joy for both of them. Here at 1,230 metres above
                                 larly enjoys the afternoon shade in summer. She is       sea level, they grow lettuce, courgettes, cucum-

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                                                                                                                                                                                                               Chiusa
The hard work that sisters
Josefine and Marialuise Planer                                                                                                                                                                                                        Castelrotto
put into their garden at the                                                                                                                                                                                      Prato Isarco Fiè allo Sciliar
Pristingerhof in S. Valentino                                                                                                                                                                    Bolzano
is amply rewarded with joy                                                                                                                                                                          nord                                      Siusi allo Sciliar
and fresh vegetables.
                                 sorry to see that most of the gardens have disappe-      ber, cabbage, beets and a variety of other vege-
                                                                                                                                                                                 BoLzano
                                 ared from the town centre: “Unfortunately, a lot of      tables, in addition to countless herbs, berries and                                                              Cardano
                                 people don’t have the time for their own gardens         flowers.” In this day and age, knowing what you
                                                                                                                                                                                 Trento/Verona
                                 anymore,” she says regretfully. Maria is delighted,      are eating is of inestimable value,” the farming
                                                                                                                                                                                                           Val d’Ega      Tires          Passo niger/Carezze
                                 however, to have her own “green fingers” and the         lady says. “I couldn’t imagine farming life without
                                 enthusiasm of her daughter-in-law and grandchil-         a garden.” When we ask if, occasionally, she woul-
                                 dren.                                                    dn’t prefer to just sit on the bench with her sister                                                                                           new showroom!
                                                                                          and do nothing, Josefine can only shake her head:
                                                                                                                                                          BoLzano                  Winestore srl                                             TIRES
                                 At the Pristingerhof farm in S. Valentino, two si-       No. In this garden, there really is no time for such
                                                                                                                                                  zona Produttiva Cardano 5                                                            Via San Giorgio 9
                                 sters share an enormous garden. However, Jose-           things. «
                                                                                                                                                 39053 Cornedo all‘Isarco (Bz)    Visit our online shop.                               39050 Tires (Bz)
                                                                                                                                                    Tel. +39 0471 642 106                                                           Tel. +39 0471 640 008
12 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                         winestore.bz                                                                   weindiele.com
ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
Hubert Kostner wrapped 10,000 metres
                                                                                                                      of brightly-coloured climbing
                                                                                                                     ropes around a boulder in the
                                                                                                                                 Sassolungo cirque.

                 Soft as stone
                  Up until mid-summer, hikers on the Sassopiatto cirque will meet with
                  a stone wrapped in brightly-coloured climbing ropes. What lies behind
                  this work of art, created by Castelrotto artist Hubert Kostner?

                                W
                                When Austrian Alpine mountaineer Paul Groh-               ted with an array of events. Transart, the contem-
                                mann, accompanied by two mountain guides from             porary art festival which has been held annually
                                Val Gardena, made the first ascent of the Sasso-          for the past 20 years made its own contribution
                                lungo on 13 August 1992, it was nothing short of          to the celebrations and paid homage to the Sasso-
                                sensational. Prior to this conquest, the imposing         piatto with a piece of performance art created for
                                landmark which dominates the landscape of the             this very unusual resonance chamber by composer
                                Seiser Alm to the east, in concert with the Sasso-        Eduard Demetz and dancer Anastasia Kostner.
                                piatto, had been considered “unconquerable” due
                                to the length of its uphill ascent and perilous rock-     The project also included a contribution from the
                                slides. In 2019, the 150th jubilee of this milestone in   field of visual arts which can be seen at the scene of
Text: Sabine Funk
Photo: Helmuth Rier             Alpine history in the Dolomites was commemora-            the performance - and not just for one day, but for »

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ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
the whole year - in the form of a work by visual ar-    rience for the artist himself: “We artists usually
                                                 tist Hubert Kostner. Entitled Sasmujel (“Soft stone”    work in protected areas like museums or galleries.
                                                 in Ladino), it is the realisation of a long-nurtured    Up here at 2,600 metres above sea level, everything
                                                 dream. In symbolic language, Kostner has expres-        is completely different. Aesthetic decisions are di-
                                                 sed the essence of being “bound” to the mountains       ctated by practical necessities, the weather plays a
                                                 by trussing a boulder in no less than 10,000 me-        decisive role; you are, quite simply, subject to the
                                                 tres of brightly-coloured climbing ropes, giving the    laws of nature. But, more than anything else, it is an
                                                 rough rock a new surface and, with it, a soft, tran-    enormous honour for me to be able to install this
                                                 smuted exterior. The ropes were procured in part        work into this space where nature alone, not cul-
                                                 through a fundraiser, and in part were donated by       ture, prevails. In relation to the immensity of the
                                                 sponsors. So, what does it mean? “Climbers are          grey rock arena my work is miniscule and, effecti-
                                                 often reproached for doing something absurd, sen-       vely, insignificant. Because this stone is nothing up
                                                 seless. Wrapping a stone may seem to be pointless,      there. Small, fragile, vulnerable - just like human
                                                 but art exists purely in order to create new shapes     beings when they are in this environment. In my
                                                 and images. Even though they may appear absurd,         20 years as an artist, I have never had the opportu-
                                                 they are never pointless. The ropes are the key to      nity to create art in a more beautiful or more com-
                                                 creating a new object. At the same time, this work      pelling location.”
                                                 represents a mutual enmeshment: The mountain
                                                 holds me, and I hold it. And, of course, the rope re-   The winter months blanketed the Sasmujel in a
                                                 presents the existential relationship between clim-     thick layer of snow, which was already lying in the
                                                 bers.” The roughly 5-metre high, 4-metre wide rock      cirque of the Sassolungo in November. As spring
                                                 looked something like a Toblerone bar before Kost-      moves forwards, the brightly coloured rock will be
                                                 ner’s transformation, and its metamorphosis into a      one of the first splashes of colour when the snow
                                                 coloured ball on a hiking trail - which was particu-    melts. How it will look and whether or not it will
                   Hubert Kostner: “Art exists   larly busy that summer - did not go unnoticed. The      need freshening up remains to be seen. The project
                     purely in order to create
                    new shapes and images.”      Sasmujel was soon to become a popular photo and         has been documented in a book and in film. This co-
                                                 selfie opportunity, although not necessarily reco-      ming summer, Hubert Kostner and an assistant will
                                                 gnised or explored as a work of art. This brought       spend a few days on-site to liberate the Sasmujel
                                                 unanticipated complications, and a “Climbing on         from its ropes. When the jubilee year of the first
                                                 the artwork is prohibited” sign had to be erected.      ascent of the Sassolungo comes to an end, all traces
                                                                                                         of the action should disappear: “Captivation and li-     This summer, the “Sasmujel”
                                                 The high-Alpine stage setting is also a special expe-   beration - and so the circle ends.” «                    will be liberated from its
                                                                                                                                                                  bonds – and afterwards,
                                                                                                                                                                  nothing will remain of this
                                                                                                                                                                  work of art.

16 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                                            Summer | ALPE 17
ALPESummer 2020 Seiser Alm Magazine - Dolomites
Training on the doorstep:
                                                                                                                                           Franz Hofer finds the
                                                                                                                                           perfect conditions for it
                                                                                                                                           around S. Costantino.

         Franz the
         mountain biker
          Franz Hofer from Val Sarentino has been a professional
          mountain biker for a quarter of a century: A long,
          arduous road that, for the most part, he’s travelled
          alone - and it’s not over yet.

                              C
                              “Cycling is a solo sport. I like being alone, and I    were a good 600 metres of hill to contend with.
                              liked it when I was a child. Naturally you do race     And I enjoyed it. At some point my godfather gave
                              for a team as a professional mountain biker, but       me my first bike, and I entered my first race when
                              you do 90 % of your training alone, unlike in ski-     I was 12 years old. From that moment on, there
                              ing where a pool of 10 people train together. If       was no doubt that I wanted to do it for a living.”
                              you’re a professional biker, you’re on your own.”      At that time, there were no schools, which foste-
                              And so begins the professional chronicles of Val       red young talents like those in the Alpine region
                              Sarentino “mountain bike veteran” Franz Hofer,         of today, mainly for skiing. From the very outset,
                              all set to bike his way into his 26th season the co-   Franz was on his own, and had to find his own way
                              ming summer. The decision to become a profes-          of doing it. “My second passion, other than cycling
                              sional was not a hard one to take: For Hofer, born     soon, and inevitably became finding sponsors.”
                              in 1981, the sport was the perfect fit for him both
                              physically and psychologically, and it is clear that   His competitive career began in the 1990s -
                              his love for the sport drives him onwards rather       an auspicious time, as it was in this period that
                              than any burning desire to make a name for him-        mountain biking was classified as a professional
                              self in the races.                                     sport. MTB Cross Country first became an Olym-
                                                                                     pic sport in 1996 and similarly the mountain bike
                              Franz Hofer helped out on a nearby farm in Val         scene underwent something like a boom period
                              Sarentino starting his early youth, and he always      in Italy, with its deep-rooted cycling culture. His
Text: Sabine Funk
Photo: Helmuth Rier           biked to work. “It was only 8 kilometres, but there    debut in the junior races was a happy occasion. »

18 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                                       Summer | ALPE 19
Franz Hofer
                                and former ski racer
                                Denise Karbon have
                                 two lively children.

                                                                                                                                      BIG VICTORIES
                                                                                                                                      2002 Italian Champion (U23)
                                                                                                                                      2002 	European Championships
                                                                                                                                             4th place (team relay)
                                                                                                                                             Leysin (CH)
                                                                                                                                      2003 	World Championships
                   When Hofer took the title of Italian champion             cross-country skiing and ski tours but more often               Lugano (CH), 9th place
                   in the U23 category in 2002 a number of teams             than not he hops on his “equipment” of choice, his              (Cross Country)
                   expressed an interest in him and, at the age of 20,       bike, and takes advantage of all the possibilities in    2004 	European Championships
                                                                                                                                             Graz (AT)
                   he signed his first professional contract with the        his immediate surrounding around S. Costantino
                                                                                                                                      2005 	Dolomiti Superbike,
                   team belonging to Austrian Formula One driver             near Fiè allo Sciliar. “Short, intensive training ses-          1st place
                   Alexander Wurz. This was followed by a notable            sions take two to three hours and longer ones five,      2006 	European Championships,
                   11 years in the Italian Scott Team. Franz Hofer’s         but I’m always back after six hours.” Franz has other           3rd place in the overall
                   career is arguably more impressive for its length         ‘problems’ which other men could only dream of:                 classification
                                                                                                                                      2015 Transalp Stage Champion
                   - how many athletes can look back on over 25 ye-          He has more or less given up strength training as        2015 	Bike four Peaks Stage
                   ars as a professional? - than for its really big victo-   he has a tendency to build up muscle too quickly,               Champion (DE)
                   ries. Hofer, however, reflects with wisdom: “As a         which is not an advantage in his sport: Body weight
                   professional I have never really reached the top of       has to be hauled up the mountains and this metre         PRESTIGIOUS WINS
                                                                                                                                      IN THE “CLASSIC”
                   the world. But even when I look back, I don’t see         upon metre of altitude difference.
                                                                                                                                      MOUNTAIN BIKE RACES
                   this as being frustrating or humiliating; I just enjoy
                                                                                                                                      2014 Montalcino Marathon
                   my job immensely. Maybe it was different in the           At the beginning of his career, Franz Hofer mainly       2014 RampiConero Marathon
                   first few years - when you’re younger you want to         competed in the relatively short loop-routes of          2015 Monteriggioni Marathon
                   achieve everything at once. But even though I’ve          cross-country races but made a gradual shift from        2015 RampiConero Marathon
                   never been at the peaks of the World Cup loop, my         2013 to 2016 and, finally made the transition to
                   good results at national and European level have          marathons - races of at least 60 km, generally with
                   always spurred me on. I know my own potential,            anywhere from 2,000 to 5,000 metres of altitude
                   and that is, possibly and fundamentally a positive        difference. This style of cycling involves a com-
                   thing as to today, I am still motivated to give my        pletely different kind of challenge for athletes: “I
                   best. People who have taken the top podium and            often got good results at the beginning of my ca-
                   can’t sustain their performance over time might           reer, but they were only good in athletic terms.
                   see more reason to bring their careers to an end,         Now that I’m older it is of course, difficult to keep
                   but I just really like my profession.”                    up with the younger lads, but I can compensate
                                                                             to a large extent with my experience, particularly
                   In practical terms, this “job” consists of following      since I started racing in marathons.” In the longer
                   a training programme every day which most re-             races, you have to be able to assess your progress
                   creational bikers would be proud of completing            and pace yourself throughout the race.
                   in a week. But, as Franz Hofer emphasises, he has
                   always been somebody who needs little training.           But the time is drawing nearer when the 38 ye-
                   “I always used to try to train a lot because I loved      ar-old Hofer’s active sports career will, inevitably,
                   doing it, but it was often counterproductive. With        draw to a close. Last autumn, he transferred to
                   the benefit of hindsight, I now know that I have to       the Italian team New Bike 2008, where he alre-
                   take more care during the recovery phases so I only       ady has a dual role, which may lead to a potential
                   train once a day, and always right here on my door-       future career. “I still race, but the team has brou-
                   step.” During winter, his training can often involve      ght in a few exceptionally talented young riders »

20 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                               Summer | ALPE 21
Broken chains – it can                                                                                                                                        without auto-mobile
                                                                                                        easily happen in cycling
                                                                                                        races, and costs you
                                                                                                        several positions
                                                                                                        in the rankings.

                                                                                                                                   Affordably and
                                                                                                                                   conveniently to the
                                                                                                                                   trekking wonderland
                                                                                                                                   with the Combi Card or the Seiser Alm Card Gold

                                                                                                                                   Seiser Alm Card Gold*                                                               95.00 Euro                    Combi Card
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     ohne auto-m
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       obil - senza aut
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              o-mobile

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  R oberto Baggioeiser Alm Car
                                                                                                                                   Valid for 7 days (after first use) | 07/06 > 12/10/2020                                                                                                     S
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              ohne
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       auto-m
                                                                                                                                   > unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway                                                                                            Gülti                           obil -
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                senza                          d Gol
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    d
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        gk
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Your Name &                 Perio eitszeit                                           auto-m
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Surname. Card Value do di validra   um: 7
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    ità: 7 Tage ab                                         obile

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Michael
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               not traspe  riod:

                                                                                                                                     and the Seiser Alm Express (route 10)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         fera    7 days giorni da Erstentwe
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              ble.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     lla
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Roberto Bagg
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         after                   rtu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               first us prima vid ng.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        e.        imazion
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               io

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Poche
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          e.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Senior - 95,00

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             r
                                                                                                                                   > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13 and 15)                                  Carta Numero: o
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  24 agosto 202
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Eur
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  19524
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                0 - ore 11:36
                                                                                                                                     and the Almbus (route 11)                                                                                                                             Your
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Nam
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        e & Su
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 rnam
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Mich                                e. Ca
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                rd no
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         ae          l Poch
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        t tras

                                                                                                                                   > unrestricted use of the Bullaccia Aerial Cableway, the Aerial Lifts Spitzbühl,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 ferabl
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          e.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Senio                 er
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        r
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Carta - 95,00 E
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  u
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                22 lug Numero: 0 ro
                                                                                                                                     Panorama, Florian (Seiser Alm) and Marinzen (Castelrotto)                                                                                        lio 20       2
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            20 - 8 424
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  :36 U
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       hr
                   who will benefit from my experience and who I          overlapped and they only got to know each other
                   have taken under my wing a little.” Equally, howe-     after Karbon had retired from professional sports,
                   ver, he could see himself sharing his experience       so they have never had to reconcile the every-
                   in a cycling shop –something that he has always        day life of two professional athletes. Just as well      Combi Card 3 in 7* 43.00 Euro                             Combi Card 7*               56.00 Euro               Combi Card 14* 84.00 Euro
                   done on a part-time basis throughout his career.       with her understanding of his daily training rou-        Over the course of 7 days (after first use)               Valid for 7 days (after first use)                   Valid for 14 days (after first use)
                   Sharing his enthusiasm for mountain biking is im-      tine and frequent absences - not easy with two           > 3 times to the Seiser Alm and back,                     > unrestricted use of the                            > unrestricted use of the
                   portant to Hofer. When we ask about his favou-         young children - his wife provides him with great          with the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway                       Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway                           Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway
                                                                                                                                     OR the Seiser Alm Express (route 10)                      and the Seiser Alm Express (route 10)                and the Seiser Alm Express (route 10)
                   rite races in South Tyrol, the ones that every am-     support, says Franz. Outside the home that they
                                                                                                                                   > unrestricted use of the                                 > unrestricted use of the                            > unrestricted use of the
                   bitious amateur should ride, he answers without        share in S Costantino, designed with amazing at-
                                                                                                                                     Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15)          Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15)     Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15)
                   hesitation: “The Hero Dolomites - it’s an incredi-     tention to detail, we can see another side to the          and the Almbus (route 11)                                 and the Almbus (route 11)                            and the Almbus (route 11)
                   bly tough race but the views make it worth all the     lone cyclist: That of a loving father and family man.
                   effort, and, of course, Dolomiti Superbike. It’s not   Dwarf goats, rabbits and hens play happily in what       The Combi Card and the Seiser Alm Card Gold are not transferable!
                                                                                                                                   Children (born after 16/05/2012) and persons on wheelchairs ride free of charge.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Komma Graphik - Foto: Helmuth Rier
                   a technical race as such, but the excellent organi-    is practically a mini zoo, amidst a homemade tree        Juniors (born after 16/05/2004) pay only half fare.
                   sation has kept the family atmosphere despite the      house and natural outdoor games. Possibly, when          *The Guest Card “Südtirol Alto Adige Guest Pass” from Seiser Alm Holiday Area,
                   large number of participants.”                         he ends his career, Hofer says he might seek his         which is not available for purchase and is issued free of charge to the guests by the accomodation,
                                                                          alone time working in the woodland behind the            includes a price reduction for the Combi Card and for the Seiser Alm Card Gold.

                   Since 2014, Franz Hofer has been together              house if he feels the need: There would certainly        Multi-storey car park in the package with purchase of a Combi Card or Seiser Alm Card Gold:
                                                                                                                                   1 day: 3.00 €, 3 days: 8.00 €, 7 days: 11.00 €, 14 days: 17.00 €, 1 month: 25,00 €
                   with former ski racer Denise Karbon. The couple        be plenty to do. But will he continue to bike after
                   have two children together, and have been mar-         his professional career has come to an end? Well,
                   ried since 2018. Their professional careers never      that remains a surprise. «                                               Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway
                                                                                                                                                   39040 Siusi allo Sciliar · Via Sciliar, 39
                                                                                                                                                   Tel. 0471 704 270 · Fax 0471 704 269
                                                                                                                                                   www.seiseralmbahn.it · info@seiseralmbahn.it
22 ALPE | Summer
Michel and Romina put heart and soul
                                                                                                       into their new venture up on high at the
                                                                                                          mountain hut Rifugio Passo Santner.

          Mountain life
           What does a young couple who live at an altitude of nearly 3,000 metres
           Romina Huber and Michel Perathoner enjoy life to the full in the heart
           of the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hosting a mountain hut
           is a great joy, but by no means a piece of cake.

                              C
                              Clearly visible below the peak of the Catinaccio        spective buyers, one of whom was the Perathoner
                              even from a distance away, the mountain hut Rifu-       family from Siusi allo Sciliar. “My father asked me
                              gio Passo Santne is located at 2,734 metres above       and my two brothers if any of us were interested
                              sea level in the “Gartl” scree land in the heart of     in taking over the Santnerpass mountain hut, and I
                              the Catinaccio mountain group. The hut was built in     was immediately filled with enthusiasm by the pro-
                              1856 by Giulio Gabrielli, a mountain guide from the     spect,” says Michel Perathoner. The oldest of the
                              Fassa Valley and was owned by his family for over fi-   three sons had already completed his education at
                              fty years. When the hut was closed to the public for    Hotel Management college and also his Bachelor
Text: Katja Sanin
Photo: Helmuth Rier           the first time in 2013 there were a number of pro-      in Political Science. He knew well what the life of »

24 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                  Summer | ALPE 25
to the Rifugio Re Alberto 1° hut. There Tobias was     doughnuts and served them with homemade apri-
                                                                                                                                                      waiting to unload the goods and pack them onto         cot jam,” the couple tell us during their conversa-
                                                                                                                                                      yet another cable car for the journey to the Sant-     tion with ALPE, reminiscing over their first season
                                                                                                                                                      nerpass hut. “It always took three people to get the   as mountain hut hosts while drinking coffee in Ar-
                                                                                                                                                      goods delivered, and we needed to top up twice         gentina. The hardest part was the difficulty in esti-
                                                                                                                                                      a week in high season because of our lack of sto-      mating how many guests would come each day; in
                                                                                                                                                      rage space,” explains Michel, who kept track of the    their first season at the hut, the couple had no expe-
                                                                                                                                                      small inventory. ”If we ran out of something, like     rience, and the number of guests fluctuated consi-
                                                                                                                                                      onions or flour, we were able to count on the in-      derably from day to day: At the height of the season,
                                                                                                                                                      valuable help from our neighbours Valeria und Ste-     they served 80 meals per day on peak days. The gue-
                                                                                                                                                      fan from the Rifugio Re Alberto 1° hut, who were       sts were a colourful blend of international climbers
                                                                                                                                                      always happy to lend us a hand if we were in a fix,”   and, in addition to the many locals, Italians, Ger-
                                                                                                                                                      says Romina.                                           mans and Europeans, hailed from Japan, Australia,
                                                                                                                                                                                                             India, Iran, Mexico, Canada and more. “One guest
                                                                                                                                                      Seasonal and regional: The couple’s culinary           even came from South Africa. He had no expe-
It’s the fundamentals                                                                                                                                 philosophy. Michel wanted to do something a little     rience in the mountains and wasn’t well equipped.
that count in the mountains:                                                                                                                          different in the kitchen rather than serving up the    He was lucky though, as it was a hot day and still
At 3,000 metres up on high,                                                                                                                           staple hut classics. At the Santnerpass hut, onion     pretty warm in the evening, so he didn’t need warm
there’s no room for fripperies.
                                                                                                                                                      soup was served rather than noodle soup, all ima-      mountain clothes,” says Michel. The South African
                                  a mountain hut host involved, as he had practically       in Milan, and lived and worked there for nine ye-         ginable variations of bread dumplings replaced         guest had been to a wedding in Venice and then
                                  grown up on the mountain hut Rifugio Alpe di Tires,       ars before she began her new life as mountain hut         the traditional ‘shepherd’s macaroni and chilli con    made a quick detour to the Dolomites to spend the
                                  which his grandfather had opened in 1963. Michel          manager with her boyfriend. Life in a mountain hut        carne’ the classic goulash as a meat dish. The clas-   night at the Santnerpass hut before flying back to
                                  could easily see himself running the hut, but the         could not be more different from that of a big city       sics, however, stayed firmly in place when it came     South Africa the following day.
                                  Gabrielli family from the Fassa Valley were unable        like Milan: “Both have their appeal, but I wouldn’t       to desserts: Apple strudel was served every day, and
                                  to reach agreement on the future of the Santner-          want to go back to the big city,” she says. Life in the   Kaiserschmarrn (Emperor’s mess) if time permit-        Summer 2019 was a mixed bag, due to the unpre-
                                  pass mountain hut and it remained closed for the          mountains is more intense. You feel more groun-           ted. “The greatest success in our first season was     dictable weather. On rainy days, the trio at the hut
                                  next few years.                                           ded and appreciate the fundamentals of life, like         our beetroot dumplings with gorgonzola sauce           spent their time preparing for the following days. It
                                                                                            water, so much more all of a sudden. There is no          and, at the weekends, we made our own carnival         wasn’t a bad summer as such, but it wasn’t steady. »
                                  In the meantime, Michel completed his Master’s            groundwater supply to the hut, just melted water
                                  degree in Economics in Bolzano and had pushed             and rainwater. Managing the water supply was a
                                  all thoughts of running the Santnerpass hut to the        considerable challenge, the couple agree. It could
                                  back of his mind until one day in spring 2018, when       be used for cooking, but there was no fresh salad
                                  his father called him out of the blue, told him that      in the hut, for example, as there was no water to
                                  the hut was up for sale again and asking him if he        wash it with. They made coffee with mineral water
                                  was still interested in taking it over. “I got straight   and when the temperature fell below zero in the
                                  on the phone to call my girlfriend Romina in Mi-          evenings, they filledjerry cans and carafes with the
                                  lan,” says Michel. When Romina said she would             water before it froze to have water at night and the
                                  do it with him, there was no doubt that the couple        following morning.
                                  would take over the Santnerpass hut in the summer
                                  of 2019, as there wasn’t enough time to get organi-       The new hosts split the labour: Michel works in
                                  sed for the 2018 season, so the two new hosts tell        the kitchen and Romina serves customers, does
                                  The magazine Alpe via a WhatsApp call from Ar-            the paperwork and the cleaning. In the first sea-
                                  gentina, their current location on a tour of South        son, her colleague Tobias ensured that everything
                                  America after their first season in the mountains         worked out around the hut. The Santnerpass hut is
                                  of South Tyrol.                                           not large, and sleeps twelve climbers in two new
                                                                                            6-bed dorms furnished in spruce wood. If there are
                                  They first stepped foot into the hut together in          a lot of people around, an additional five people can
                                  June 2018. “Opening the shutters and letting the          be accommodated in the parlour. Storage space for
                                  light and fresh air flow through our new summer           groceries is also limited and the couple got their
                                  home was an incredible sensation,” says Romina,           supplies once a week when Michel’s father brought
                                  who has found it easy to settle into a life at 3,000      their orders to the Rifugio Vajolet hut, where they       “Over all the hilltops is quiet now,”
                                  metres metres. Romina studied fashion and design          were reloaded onto the cable car and transported          wrote Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.

26 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Summer | ALPE 27
Foto: IDM/Andreas Mierswa
                     June was a particularly hot month and there were a
                     lot of showers in the afternoons, so mountaineers
                     had to plan their trips well. One day that Romina,
                     Michel and Tobias will never forget is 25 July 2019,
                     when the temperatures plummeted throughout Eu-
                     rope, and there was a record number of lightning
                     storms in South Tyrol. “We thought we knew what
                     a thunder storm was, but that evening was both
                     incredibly scary and incredibly beautiful,” they re-
                     call. “By good luck, the overnight guests were alre-                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      The fascinating
                     ady there when the storm began in the late after-                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         mountain scenery

                                                                               The myth of the Dolomites
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               of the Dolomites.
                     noon. We had just finished dinner when there was
                     a thunderous crack and we were plunged into dark-
                     ness. We were right in the middle of a storm cloud,
                     and the thunder was deafening. The sky all around
                                                                               In South Tyrolean extreme mountaineer Reinhold Messner’s words, they are “the most
                     us was pitch black, and lit up with flashes of grey
                                                                               beautiful mountains in the world“. The incomparable beauty of the Dolomites is widely
                     and yellow lightning. The hut shook under our feet
                                                                               renowned and for many they are synonymous with excellence in winter holidays.
                     with every rumble of thunder. It was frightening,
                     but when the storm clouds finally cleared it was a
                     beautiful sight, and seeing one flash of lightning        The mountains of the Dolomites can       Dolomites are considered one of the                                                      Euringer peaks, stands out as one of
                     after another all around us was an impressive sight       be thought of as a fossilised coral      most beautiful natural landscapes in                                                     the signature landmarks of South
                     to behold,” they now say when recalling the unfor-        reef arching up into the sky in spec-    the world.                                                                               Tyrol. The Catinaccio massif, with its
                                                                               tacular fashion. Thanks to their mo-                                                                                              numerous peaks, is also known far
                     gettable, breathtaking spectacle of nature. In that
                                                                               numental beauty as well as their         Sciliar-Catinaccio Nature Park:                                                          beyond the country’s borders. The
                     record night in late July, over 14,000 lightning bolts
                                                                               geological and geomorphologic sig-       South Tyrol’s oldest natural reserve,                                                    most striking part of the massif is the
                     were recorded in South Tyrol.                             nificance, the so-called Pale Moun-      a 7,291-hectare park, is situated in the                                                 Catinaccio D’Antermoia peak, which
                                                                               tains were awarded UNESCO World          western Dolomites and was founded                                                        stands at a height of 3,002 metres.
                     “I can still remember the thunder storms on the           Heritage status in 2009. Divided into    in 1974. The Sciliar is an impressive                                                    The natural park also includes the
                     Alpe di Tires when I was a child and how loud it was      nine areas and forming part of the       mountain range whose emblematic                                                          mountain forests around Siusi, Fiè
                     when the hailstones bounced off the metal roof, but       Sciliar-Catinaccio Natural Park, the     outline, that includes the Santner and                                                   and Tires, and the Ciamin Valley. «
                     that thunderstorm on 25 July was immense, and I
                     was amazed by how much we all kept our heads in
                     spite of the apocalyptic feel in the air,” says Michel.
                     This was probably the most unforgettable memory                                                                                    Südtirol
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Bruneck
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Brunico                                                                       Lienz
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Toblach

                     which the couple experienced in their first season,                                                                                                 Brixen                                      St. Vigil
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Dobbiaco

                                                                                                                                                  Meran                Bressanone                                   S. Vigilio

                     and which they can now look back on with sati-                                                                               Merano
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          5
                     sfaction as they look forward to many more sum-                                                                                                                      St. Ulrich
                                                                                                                                                                              Kastelruth Ortisei
                                                                                                                                                                             Castelrotto                     6                                                                 Auronzo

                                                                                                                                                                 Seis am Schlern                                       Corvara                Cortina d’Am-

                     mer seasons spent at the heights of 3,000 metres.                                                                                           Siusi allo Sciliar     Seiser Alm                                                pezzo

                                                                               Dolomites
                                                                                                                                                                                       Alpe di Siusi
                                                                                                                                                              Völs am Schlern
                                                                                                                                                               Fiè allo Sciliar
                                                                                                                                                                            Tiers                                                                                            Pieve                   Ampezzo

                     The young couple can easily imagine having a fa-                                                                                       Bozen
                                                                                                                                                                            Tires   7                  Canazei
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              1
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           di Cadore

                                                                               World Heritage
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Alleghe
                                                                                                                                                           Bolzano                                                       2
                                                                                                                                                                                8
                     mily in the future and spending the summer at the                                                                                                                                                                                 Zoldo                             4

                     mountain hut in the Catinaccio mountain group             UNESCO                                                                                   Cavalese

                                                                                                                                                                                                                       3
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Agordo               Longarone
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Cimolais

Nature and cuisine   with their children. “We are not climbers ourselves       1   Pelmo, Croda da Lago
                                                                                                                                 Madonna
                                                                                                                                di Campiglio                                                                                                                                                 Pordenone
                                                                                                                                                                                                         Fiera di

go hand in hand.                                                                                                                                                                                         Primiero
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Belluno
                     but, if we have children, we will kit them out with       2 Marmolada                                              9
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Udine
                                                                               3 Pale San Martino, San Lucano                                                                                                                        Belluno
                     climbing harnesses and ropes to make sure that                                                                            Trento
                                                                                 Dolomiti Bellunesi, Vette Feltrine                                                                                                              Feltre                                                      Pordenone
                     they are safe on the mountain sides, like so many         4 Friulian and d’Oltre Piave Dolomites
                                                                                                                           Trentino
                     of our predecessors have done up here,” the couple        5 Northern Dolomites
                     say with a smile. «                                       6 Puez-Odle
                                                                               7 Sciliar Catinaccio, Latemar
                                                                               8 Bletterbach
                                                                               9 Brenta Dolomites
28 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Summer | ALPE 29
The most
                          precious spice
                          in the world
                           Saffron, a handpicked treasure, is as precious as gold.                                                   Deep violet blossom:
                                                                                                                                     In autumn, saffron
                           The siisters Sabine and Franzi are experimenting
                                                                                                                                     takes on a particularly
                           with a crop in a field above Siusi allo Sciliar.                                                          intense hue.

                   A
                   About 150,000 to 200,000 threads of saffron have         autumn, the field was covered in the hardy violet
                   to be harvested to produce a single kilogramme of        plants, and every member of the family helped to
                   saffron. And the “Crocus Sativus,” botanical name        pick the flowers every day. They got to work early
                   of the autumn-blooming, tuberous saffron plant,          in the morning before the petals opened in the
                   only comes into blossom once a year. Even in far-        sunlight, otherwise the yellowy-red stigmas inside
                   back olden times, saffron was so precious that it        the flowers would have lost their essential oils and
                   was weighed against gold, which is how it came           their distinctive and heady aroma.
                   to its alternative name of “red gold.” Saffron is
                   a traditional crop in oriental and Mediterranean         When the flowers have been picked, the meticu-
                   countries, and also in Switzerland. But how about        lously delicate work begins at home: Handpicking
                   South Tyrol?                                             three threads of saffron from each flower. And you
                                                                            can imagine what a gentle touch it needs! Franzi
                   Saffron in Siusi allo Sciliar. “We first came up         then lays the golden threads on baking trays and
                   with the idea of growing saffron when we were            dries them around the warm oven. “Roasting is a
                   staying at a hotel in Alsace. The first tubers that we   decisive factor in the quality,” as the sisters slowly
                   used came on one part from Sardinia and the part         learned. The threads shrink to a fifth of their ori-
                   from Upper Austria,” recalls Franzi. The Sardinian       ginal size and feel extremely fragile when Sabine
                   tubers, however - unlike their Austrian counter-         and Franzi weigh them on precision scales and
                   parts - were reluctant to blossom; it would seem         package a small amount into small dark glasses.
                   that they weren’t well-suited to the Alpine cli-
                   mate. “Team SaFran,” as the sisters SAbine and           Bees love saffron. Even the seemingly super-
                   FRANzi jokingly call themselves, sourced 6,000           fluous petals have a great purpose. “Bees love to eat
                   bulbs from Austria and planted them in a sunny,          crocus flowers. They buzz around the crocus field
                   wind-sheltered field of the Winklerhof farm, in          and munch on our floral leftovers,” says Sabine.
                   front of the Schlern massif. Their home farm the
                   Winklerhof boasts the ideal soil conditions for cro-     After their first successful harvest a few years ago,
                   cus plants as it is calcareous, rich in humus and        Sabine and Franzi decided to expand their crop,
                                                                                                                                     Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher
                   dry. Their efforts were not in vain: The following       and grew another 10,000 tubers on roughly 300 »          Photo: Helmuth Rier

30 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                Summer | ALPE 31
Sabine and Franzi Schgaguler
                                                                                       invest endless time and energy
                                                                                        into their saffron crops at the
                                                                                    Winklerhof above Siusi allo Sciliar.

                   square metres of arable land. The first planting ta-   keep the weeds down and create added value.”
                   kes place in late summer, and the saffron plants       Growing saffron should continue to be a side bu-
                   blossom around two months later. Then the four-        siness for the sisters that brings them joy and en-
                   year vegetation cycle begins: The tubers sprout in     thusiasm. Sabine works full time in a sports shop
                   spring and then the plants begin to garner their       and Franzi runs the farm with her husband.
                   strength. In summertime all the green dies away,
                   and does not reappear until autumn. “We do not         The customers for their lovingly packaged saffron
                   use any fertiliser or chemicals, and for the most      threads are local shops, including “South Tyrol
                   part, water the plants only when it is particularly    Products” at the valley station of the Seiser Alm
                   dry in spring, but the weeds just keep growing,”       cable car and the grocery shop “Konsum” in Ca-
                   moans Franzi. Picking the rampant weeds days           stelrotto. “We can’t produce enough to keep up
                   after day is a lot of work, but not even the weeds     with the demand”: The sisters are delighted with
                   can spoil their joy in their venture.                  their success. Franzi often makes tea with a few
                                                                          infused saffron threads. “It’s a great pick-me-up,”
                   A sideline with a soul. “We’re still in the expe-      she says. The saffron liqueur, which she has made
                   rimental phase,” says Sabine. Last summer, they        is also delectable. Sabine, in similar vein, got her-
                   treated a field with a layer of biodegradable corn-    self a saffron recipe book and often tries out new
                   starch. “It was worth a try. Next year we’ll try       dishes. Her greatest wish is to work together with
                   sowing buckwheat or rye in the spring to try to        local professional chefs as a saffron-grower. «

32 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                  Summer | ALPE 33
The
                        blue
                        apron
                        Tourism adverts in South Tyrol promise you 300 days of sunshine
                        a year and a holiday under a blue sky. Deep sky-blue is also the
                        colour of the most commonly-seen item of clothing in South Tyrol.
                        Very much the preserve of the menfolk in days gone by, the blue
                        apron is also enormously popular with women nowadays.

                                    T
                                    The blue apron also called the “Schurz” in South
                                    Tyrol, has shaped the image of these lands like
                                    no other garment. If you keep your eyes peeled
                                    when you’re out and about you are bound to ca-
                                    tch a glimpse of the “Schurz”, known variously as
                                    “Fürtig”, “Firtig” or “Fürchta” depending on where
                                    you happen to be, especially in the countryside
                                    and mostly donned by farmers and craftspeople.
                                    However, you’re also very likely to spot it under
                                    the shopping arcades in Bolzano or at the fruit
                                    market, as the winegrowers in the Bolzano area
                                    remain devoted fans of the blue apron to this day.

                                    The blue apron, or “farmer’s apron” is a clear de-
                                    claration of class; it is a staple item in the wor-
                                    king wardrobe and is practically indispensable to
                                    the working man in South Tyrol. “A man without
                                                                                            A blue apron is a clear
                                    an apron is only half-dressed,” as a local proverb
Text: Barbara Pichler                                                                       sign of a hard-working
Photo: Helmuth Rier                 goes, and many people are still of the same opi- »      South Tyrolean.           »

34 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                          Summer | ALPE 35
The uses of the
                                                                                                                                                                                      blue apron are as
                                                                                                                                                                                     multi-faceted as the
                                                                                                                                                                                     people who wear it
                                                                                                                                                                                        with such pride.
                                                                                                                              reached an affordable price in around 1900, syn-
                                                                                                                              thetic blue became the colour of choice, bringing
                                                                                                                              a splash of colour into everyday life and a new “fa-
                                                                                                                              shion” for the workers of South Tyrol. It was ge-
                                                                                                                              nerally home-sewn by the women of the house,
                                                                                                                              and the breast bib was often adorned with lovin-
                                                                                                                              gly stitched embroidery. Today, you can buy the
                                                                                                                              blue apron in all specialist stores, at markets, and
                                                                                                                              in general stores; it is often embellished with a
                                                                                                                              witticism, making it a popular souvenir for both
                                                                                                                              locals and guests. The apron is the vehicle of
                                                                                                                              choice for making statements, and lovingly-em-
                                                                                                                              broidered adornments. “funny and single,” “Ra-
                                                                                                                              rely at home” or “married and done,” especially in
                                                                                                                              the days when courting was a secret affair, would
                                                                                                                              have conveyed a meaningful signal to the mar-
                                                                                                                              riage market.

                                                                                                                              Living tradition. The blue apron has got good
                                                                                                                              prospects as the garb of choice for the quirky
                                                                                                                              character in the third millennium. Years ago,
                                                                                                                              Mikamale, a design team from Bolzano, came
                                                                                                                              up with the idea of creating novel items in tra-
                                                                                                                              ditional fabrics. Everyday articles such as shop-
                                                                                                                              ping bags and bread baskets for the breakfast
                                                                                                                              table are stitched in the robust cotton and sold
                                                                                                                              in museum shops as well as in a number of shops
                                                                                                                              in South Tyrol. Fashion label Qollezione plan to
                                                                                                                              rewrite the history of the blue apron, and their fi-
                                                                                                                              nely embroidered skirts, trousers and jackets will
                                                                                                                              enthuse the younger generation for blue cotton:
                                                                                                                              New fashion, with a hint of tradition.

                                                                                                                              When work is done. If you meet a man who
                                                                                                                              has pulled up a corner of his apron and twisted
                                                                                                                              it behind his trousers, it means that his working
                   nion today. Be that as it may, women have long         all manner of small items can be stowed away in     day is done. Older people know endless other
                   since discovered the “Schurz” for themselves,          the bib, so you can wander around the house or      hidden messages: It does make a difference if an
                   eminently practical and multi-purpose as it is. It     the field without a bag. And in an emergency, the   apron corner hangs over your left leg or your ri-
                   protects clothing, which especially in the past, was   apron also comes in handy as a hanky or to wipe     ght. But at the end of the day, you just have to
                   cared for with great attention. When the two ends      a weary brow.                                       put the apron on for yourself to see what it does
                   are held in one hand, it makes a handy makeshift                                                           to a man (or woman). With its endless versatility,
                   sack for carrying all manner of things for example:    History. The apron was originally white, made in    there is every reason to hope that this amazing
                   seeds, potatoes, apples or wood from A to B when       local linen and was worn by farmers even on Sun-    South Tyrolean accessory will be worn for a long
                   you’re in a hurry. Documents, the newspaper and        days or on strolls through the city. When cotton    time to come. «

36 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                                                     Summer | ALPE 37
Artist Willy Valier
                                                                                                                        left a meaningful mark
                                                                                                                       through his life’s works.

             In memory
             of Willy Valier
               100 years ago, the famed artist Willy Valer was born.
               Valier revolutionised art in South Tyrol, and spent
               many years of his life in Siusi allo Sciliar.

                                I
                                In 2019, all South Tyrol shared homage to the great    Willy began his academic life at the Franziska-
                                artist Karl Plattner. Born in Malles in 1919, he was   ner high school in Bolzano, but shortly afterwards
                                undoubtedly one of the most important artists of       changed his course of studies and attended the
                                the post-war period. And on 6 December, his friend     School of Viticulture and Oenology in Conegliano
                                one of the most innovative artists of the 1960s who    Veneto. In 1939, he matriculated at the Florence
                                sent shock waves through the art world in South        Art Academy, which he also abandoned due to the
                                Tyrol was born: Willy Valier.                          war. Valier was one of the first people to “opt” for
                                                                                       the German Reich following the Mussolini-Hitler
                                Willy Valier was born in Bolzano in 1920, the el-      Agreement calling for the forcible resettlement of
                                dest son of Willy Valier Senior and Valeria Cagol,     South Tyroleans. In 1930 he enlisted in the Ger-
                                and died of a heart failure at a very young age on     man Navy, partly due to his enthusiasm for the sea
                                2 September 1968, while on holiday with his wife       and technology. He shared his sharp mind with his
                                Liana and their seven year-old daughter Sarah in       uncle Max Valier (1895-1930), a great pioneer of
                                Senigallia. He is buried in St. Paulo/Appiano. His     rocket technology and also one of its first victims;
                                father ran a bakery under the porticoed arcades in     he died in 1930 in an explosion during a trial run
                                Bolzano; after a failed attempt to expand the ba-      of a new engine for the Shell company. The town
                                kery into a larger company and thus, at the time of    of Siusi memorialised Max Valier with the naming
                                the great economic depression of 1930, the Valier      of a street, and the Technological High School in
Arnold Tribus,                  family built and managed a Viennese Art Nouveau        Bolzano that also bears his name.
journalist and editor           style hotel in MIramare, Rimini together with their
of the “Die neuen
                                friends, artist couple May and Anton Hofer.            In 1943 Willy Valier married Anneliese Gerold
Südtiroler Tageszeitung”
daily newspaper, also
                                                                                       from Innsbruck, who gave birth to their child.
ran an art gallery              Hofer had attended the Kolo Moser School of Ap-        After the war, the Valier family moved to Siusi,
in Bolzano for 20 years.        plied Arts in Vienna, and was a member of the          where they again managed a hotel – the “Monte
                                Vienna Workshop (Wiener Werkstätten), while his        Piz,” after their hotel on the Adriatic had been
                                wife May (1896-2000) had a prestigious reputation      bombed during the hostilities. The hotel was to
Text: Arnold Tribus
Photo: Helmuth Rier             as a textile and enamel artist.                        become a .retreat for Willy Valier, and from that »

38 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                                     Summer | ALPE 39
With his mixed-media works,
                   Willy Valier created a connection
                   with the international avant-garde.

                   time onwards Siusi remained a point of reference          which was certainly the most radical of his short-li-
                   for the artist.                                           ved artistic career. This mixed-media approach re-
                                                                             ceived only reserved public approval; his audience
                   IN the mid-1950s, architect Arno Hofer once again         felt disoriented and confused. His good friend Karl
                   built a modern, bungalow style villa for Valier’s pa-     Plattner, who also struggled on the scene with his
                   rents, for which Willy Valier designed some furni-        cubist-style art, confirmed a similar experience (let
                   shings, wrought-iron lamps and banisters. The Va-         us not forget that one of Plattner’s 1951 frescoes,
                   lier’s villa again became a rendezvous for artists        created for the war memorial in Naturno/Naturns,
                   and intellectuals, including Karl Plattner, Piero         was covered over with plywood until 1968).
                   Siena, Roland Veneri and Gino Scarpa.
                                                                             Valier’s mixed-media works are mainly large-for-
                   In 1949 Willy Valier resumed his art studies at the       mat compositions in which, alongside colour, he
                   Munich Academy, where the artists Emanuel                 used a variety of unusual materials including sand,
                   Fohn and Josef Kienlechner helped him to find a           plaster, ash, cement and plasticine with PVA glue,
                   place. He did not, however, complete his studies,         drawing his inspiration from masters such as Burri,
                   and dropped out once again in 1954. In the 1950s,         Tapiés, Dubuffet or Fautier. Through these works,
                   Valier embarked on an intensive period of exhi-           Valier succeeded in creating a connection with the
                   bitions.                                                  international avant-garde scene which had been
                                                                             moulded by the “Informel,” the collective appel-
                                                                             lation for abstract art movements of, amongst
                   His works                                                 others, action painting, tachisme and art brut. In-
                                                                             formalist art eschews fixed rules of composition in
                   Willy Valier considered the post-WW II era to be a        favour of spontaneity. It is by no means, however,
                   sharp turning point in the history of the world and       chaos on canvas, but rather an unveiling of crea-
                   the history of art. Shaken by the war, the atomic         tive gesture and deliberate intent.                 »
                   bomb, fascism, National Socialism and Auschwitz,
                   the world of art turned its attention to approaches
                   which could help to create a new beginning; the
                   newly-regained freedom needed a creative outlet.
                   And in Bolzano, Willy Valier was undoubtedly one
                   of the most prominent figures of this new dawn.
                   With his charismatic nature, he was soon to be-
                   come a point of reference for a new, younger ge-
                   neration of artists who wanted to make a clean
                   break with the past.

                   Valier‘s artistic career is a complex affair. His first
                   cycle of works in the 1950s is an expression of a
                   fantasy world and, above all, is characterised by
                   stylised motivs with emblematic titles such as “Ge-
                   ometric Fish” and his famed birds, with a striking
                   objectivity and a delicate embellishment. The be-
                   autiful colours of his works suited his audience’s
                   tastes: Modern, but not over the top and, above all,
                   not abstract. They did not provide the artist with
                   long term satisfaction, however; He was searching
                   for something new and, principally, anxious not to
                   lose his bond with the national and internatio-
                   nal art scene. At this time he created his second
                   cycle of works, an abstract mixed-media-art period

40 ALPE | Summer                                                                                                                     Summer | ALPE 41
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