A VILLAGE IT TAKES - Morgan Media
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CHIANG MAI
IT TAKES
A VILLAGE
Age-old arts and crafts come alive in
new ways at Baan Kang Wat, an artist’s
village in Chiang Mai. Alana Morgan
wanders into this patch of cultural land
and discovers how a community keeps
its handicraft business thriving
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA MORGAN
SCOOT 45
CHIANG MAI
T
raditional crafts such harmony of old and new BUILDING A
as weaving, wood that exists in Baan Kang Wat, VILLAGE FROM A
carving, and pottery its amphitheatre is a VISION
are a way of life in Chiang juxtaposition of concrete Situated across the street
Mai. These disciplines terraces and seats from Wat Ram Poeng temple,
typically use conventional upholstered by earth and Baan Kang Wat literally
materials, styles, and designs grass. Walk further through translates to “village in front of
in what is a clear homage to the narrow, leafy walkways a temple.” It’s no coincidence
the country’s hundreds of of the village and you’ll that it was built there.
years of artistic heritage. realise this blend of “old The concept harkens back
While today’s artists respect meets new” is a recurring to the traditional craft villages
the past, there is also a strong theme. The predominant and communities of yesteryear
trend of reworking the old to use of wood for when Thai villages or baan
become new. Nowhere is this construction gives you a would take the name of the
movement more evident than sense of heritage that is Buddhist temple closest to
in Baan Kang Wat, an artist’s deeply rooted in northern them.
village that bridges a bygone Thai culture, but the clean The brains behind the
era with contemporary lines and basic forms remind revival of the craft village
aesthetic – and does it in a way you that these buildings are concept is ceramicist and
that fosters creativity in the contemporary as well. sculptor Nattawut “Big”
midst of a community. Then there’s the beauty of Ruckprasit, owner of BooKoo
the art throughout the Studio. After graduating from
WEAVING THE OLD village; some would describe the Fine Art Department of
WITH THE NEW the creations as quirky and nearby Chiang Mai University,
ABOVE
The intimate property, cute, some would see them Big went on to perfect his
FROM LEFT:
located just minutes from as conventional and even signature work of miniature
A female cloth
downtown Chiang Mai via rigid. But regardless of houses and animals. But as he
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA MORGAN
weaver at
Studio Naenna
traditional vehicles like perspective, one thing is worked to perfect his craft, Big
diligently works tuk-tuk or songthaew, offers unanimous: the passion for had something else in mind.
a wooden loom; visitors a spot to view and buy creation shines through. It is He also had a vision to
Artisanal local art amid a relaxing this sense of passion, renew a tradition that could
homeware ambience. With a mix of amplified by a community of help today’s local artists thrive
are some of the indoor and outdoor spaces, it like-minded creatives, that — a contained artist
many curated has shops, workspaces, and Baan Kang Wat tries to community where other local
curiosities found cafes galore. communicate to those who creatives could work, sell
in Baan Kang Wat. As if a microcosm of the visit this tiny village. wares, and live in.
SCOOT 47
CHIANG MAI
“I like the lifestyle of the old
days where people who lived A ceramic
in the same neighbourhood potted plant is
one of the
looked after each other and novel
shared what they had with souvenirs
each other,” Big says. visitors can
take home
With the support of from Baan
investors, he proceeded to
plan the village layout and
Kang Wat.
MEET ME
design the buildings with an AT THE STUDIO
architect. The village officially Head to these studio-cum-
opened in mid-2014, and shops for a chance to bump
today draws both local and into Chiang Mai’s top creatives
overseas visitors. and – if you’re lucky – learn
from them, too.
A COMMUNITY FOR
CREATORS each independent artist or C.A.P. Studio
Baan Kang Wat bills itself as an shop owner based on the Owned by:
artist community, not a market quality of their work as well as Kitikong Tilokwattanotai
or lifestyle centre, because it is their commitment to the Learn it:
indeed a little village and an community’s ethos and Contemporary printmaking
experiment in a collective, obligations. chiangmaiartonpaper.com
communal living. When joining the community, ABOVE FROM
LEFT:
It now has 13 buildings residents agree to share profits, InClay Studio Pottery
An elaborate
grouped together. More than as well as various responsibilities Owned by:
display of
ten of these buildings serve as such as tending to the organic Jirawong Wongtrangan
plants greets
living spaces too, allowing garden. “We all help to look Learn it:
shoppers at
artists to literally live where after the garden; it’s one of the Wheel-throwing
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA MORGAN
15.28 Studio;
they work. Residing on-site village’s agreements,” says Big. Hard at work at pottery making
enables shop owners to “Together, we grow the herbs InClay Studio inclaystudio.com
reduce overhead costs since and vegetables which we then Pottery.
they work, live, and do use to cook with.” CIRCLE: Studio Naenna
business in one place. They do When asked what he’s most C.A.P. Studio Owned by:
not require staff for upkeep proud of about Baan Kang Wat, owner Kitikong Patricia Cheesman
since everyone contributes to Big easily replies, “The people Tilokwattanotai Learn it:
maintaining the village. who live here—we have poses inside his Indigo tie-dyeing
Big has carefully selected become like a family.” studio. studio-naenna.com
48 SCOOT
Fuel up at The
Old Days Bistro,
a favourite
breakfast stop
in the vicinity.
MORE TO EXPLORE
Check out these nearby
trinket spots around Baan
Kang Wat.
Choose from Baan Tawai
various garden Hunting for a quirky
salads that are
available within
IMMERSING IN Seasons Ice Cream features a centrepiece to enliven
the village. CREATIVITY, rotating selection of inventive your living room? Baan
EVOKING THE small batch flavours such as Tawai is home to talented
ARTIST black sesame and refreshing wood carvers who chisel
What further sets Baan Kang sorbets made from seasonal home goods and
Wat apart from typical shops mangosteen and tamarind. For speciality furniture.
or market spaces is how the a caffeine boost, try the coffee
community’s vendors and and Thai iced tea sweetened Bo Sang
craftspeople guide guests in with condensed milk. Located in the east side
learning a craft. This hosting Baan Kang Wat also hosts a of town, Bo Sang is the
of workshops, therefore, morning market every Sunday go-to place to pick up
extends the village’s concept from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. during which paper parasols. February is
of community, as visitors get all of the permanent shops will an especially great month
to partake in village activities open alongside a variety of to visit for the annual
and better appreciate each pop-up stalls from other local umbrella festival.
artist’s craft. artists. Outdoor film festivals and
Workshops typically take an annual craft fair in December Wua Lai Road
around three hours and cover called Sawasdee Craft are just Down the length of
everything from watercolour some of the other events Baan Wua Lai Road is a
painting to clay sculpting. Most Kang Wat organises to further silversmith’s haven where
classes are held on an ad hoc connect artists and the local handmade jewellery,
basis and can be booked community. various types of silverware,
through Baan Kang Wat’s If you want to be inspired by and aluminium sculptures
website or Facebook Page. local art, are interested in some are on display. Buyers are
Aside from BooKoo Studio, hands-on learning, and want encouraged to haggle
PaChaNa Studio also offers to immerse in a community of before making a purchase.
pottery lessons. Those who are passionate artists, then Baan
interested in sewn and quilted Kang Wat is a must-include in
creations can head to Orn the your Chiang Mai itinerary. As for
Rose. For watercolour Big and other villagers, Baan
workshops, book one with Kang Wat provides a more
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA MORGAN
15.28 Studio. Meanwhile, Note affordable and conducive
a Book can teach you all about alternative to other busy areas
bookbinding. in town. More importantly, it Scoot
Understandably, the gathers like-minded individuals flies four times
hands-on workshops can who share the passion for weekly to
make the artist in you hungry. creating art that respects Chiang Mai.
To refuel, try The Old Days tradition while striving for a Book your flights
Bistro, which serves breakfast, fresh personality. at flyscoot.com
salads, and various pastas. facebook.com/baankangwat
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