A BOA RD T HE CALEDONIAN SKY - May 20 to June 4, 2020 a program of the stanford alumni association
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A WILDLIFE AND BIRDING EXPEDITION ABOARD THE CALEDONIAN SK Y M ay 20 to June 4, 2020 a p rogra m of the sta nford alum ni association
The Sea of Okhotsk is one of the planet’s least explored and most remarkable destinations for dramatic scenery, pristine tundra, indigenous cultures and a staggering abundance of wildlife. We begin this remarkable journey in northern Japan. At this time of year, millions of seabirds congregate to breed, mountain valleys are green with new vegetation and wildflowers carpet the tundra against a backdrop of snowcapped volcanoes. As we sail north along the volcanic Kuril Islands archipelago, watch for the magnificent Steller’s sea eagle, and scan the horizon for brown bears on the Kamchatka Peninsula, land of smoking volcanoes. Join Stanford Travel/Study faculty leader Daniel Sneider and Zegrahm Expeditions experts aboard the Caledonian Sky to explore this fascinating region. BRE T T S. THOMPSON, ’83, DIRECTOR, STANFORD TRAVEL /STUDY AUKLETS Highlights W I T N E S S huge con- C R U I S E by Zodiac P H O T O G R A P H a wide E N J O Y a performance centrations of seabirds along rocky islets and variety of stunning scenery, of traditional Russian in a frenzy of breeding uninhabited shores to from towering volcanoes songs and dances in activity—northern fulmars, search for the area’s prolific to tiny, desolate islands to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk horned and tufted puffins, marine and wildlife— wildflower-studded tundra. on Sakhalin Island. guillemots, black-legged including seals, whales, kittiwakes and more. bears and Arctic foxes. COVER: ZHUPANOVA RIVER, K AMCHATK A PENINSULA, RUSSIA
Stanford Faculty Leader D A N I E L S N E I D E R , a lecturer in international policy at Stanford University, has focused his studies on U.S. foreign policy in Northeast Asia. “This trip is a dream one for me, combining my life-long engagement with these two fascinating countries and a personal passion for birding. As a journalist, I visited Sakahlin and the disputed territory of the southern Kurils, and was one of the first American journalists allowed into Vladivostok.” During our program, Sneider will explore the historical rivalry between Japan and Russia that goes back more than a century and includes two major wars. He will also explain contemporary Japanese views of Russia and the role of the Far East in the Russian imagination and its current politics, economics and geopolitics. Additionally, Sneider will offer a glimpse into Hokkaido’s unique culture and position in Japan. “The world is — Lecturer, international policy, Stanford University, and visiting researcher, Canon Institute for Global Studies, Tokyo not the same — Former associate director for research, and director, the Divided Memories and Reconciliation project and the Nationalism and Regionalism project, Walter H. after you’ve Shorenstein Asia-Pacific Research Center, Stanford University — Former national/foreign editor, The Mercury News; former syndicated columnist, seen it through Knight Ridder; Moscow bureau chief, 1990–1994, and Tokyo correspondent, 1985–1990, The Christian Science Monitor the eyes of a — Co-author, Divergent Memories: Opinion Memories and the Asia-Pacific War, Stanford University Press, 2016 knowledgeable — Co-editor, History Textbooks and the Wars in Asia: Divided Memories, Routledge, 2011, 2013, and Confronting Memories of World War II: European and Asian Legacies, University of Washington Press, 2014 Stanford — Contributor, The New York Times, The Washington Post, Time, Slate, The Christian Science Monitor, National Review and International Herald Tribune faculty member.” Joining Professor Sneider on this voyage are Zegrahm’s expedition leader Mike Moore; naturalists MARY FIEDLER, E NLEIW Z AZBEEATLHA NWDE BBBY, Rich Pagen, Brad Climpson, Conrad Field and Mark Brazil; marine biologist Jack Grove; and M PRAI V ’ 6A5T E A I R , 2 0 11 historian Steve Fisher. PETROPAVLOVSK-K AMCHATSKY, RUSSIA SIGN UP ONLINE: alumni.stanford.edu/trip?kamchatka2020 OR BY PHONE: (650) 725-1093
Kamchatka Sea of Peninsula Zhupanova Optional Okhotsk River Pre-trip Russkaya Bay Petropavlovsk- Extension Kamchatsky HOKKAIDO, JAPAN to RUSSIA Atlasova M AY 17 TO 21 Island (4 A D D I T I O N A L DAYS) Seoul Sakhalin Island Onekotan Island Itinerary and pricing details will be sent to Tyuleniy Island confirmed travelers. Yankicha Rishiri Korsakov Broutona Island Island Island Chirpoy KURIL Teuri Island ISLANDS Island HOKKAIDO Otaru Sapporo Pa c i f ic Ocean JAPAN Itinerary S AT U R DAY, M AY 23 Founded as a small Russian Thousands of common murres TEURI ISLAND / settlement in the 1880s, the city and kittiwakes cover the cliffs and RISHIRI ISLAND became a Japanese prefect fly overhead. Other bird species Cruise past tiny Teuri Island at capital when the southern half include crested auklets, Siberian dawn where early risers may W E D N ES DAY & T H U R S DAY, of the island was declared a rubythroats and Pallas’s warblers, train their binoculars on one of M AY 20 & 21 Japanese colony in 1905; after with sightings possible of red- DEPART U.S. / the largest colonies of rhinoceros WWII it was returned to Russia. necked stints and narcissus SAPPORO, JAPAN auklets in Asia. Watch as the birds Visit the Russian Orthodox flycatchers. CALEDONIAN SKY Board independent flights to leave the rocky cliffs en masse to church; the Regional Museum, (B,L,D) Sapporo, arriving on Thursday, feed in the productive surrounding housed in an impressive and check in to our hotel. Gather waters. Continue cruising north T U ES DAY, M AY 26 former Japanese mansion; this evening for a welcome to the classically cone-shaped BROUTONA ISLAND, and the bustling market. Enjoy reception, dinner and orientation. volcano of Rishiri Island, where KURIL ISLANDS / a performance of traditional CHIRPOY ISLAND SAPPORO GRAND HOTEL (5/21: D) we stop to stroll or hike in the Cossack song and dance from Today we arrive in the Kuril magnificent conifer forests of a group dressed in colorful Islands, an archipelago of 56 F R I DAY, M AY 2 2 Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National SAPPORO / OTARU / costumes. Alternatively, join our large and small islands, nearly Park. Visit the municipal museum EMBARK ornithologist for a day of birding equal to the Hawaiian Islands in to learn of the local history and After breakfast, join a tour of in the southern part of the island. landmass, stretching some 700 view artifacts dating back more Sapporo’s highlights. Hokkaido is Watch for Latham’s snipes, nautical miles between Japan and than 1,000 years. CALEDONIAN Japan’s northernmost island and Eurasian bullfinches, white-tailed Kamchatka. Young in geological SKY (B,L,D) during late May, flowers and trees sea eagles, Siberian thrushes and years, the Kurils are still bursting should be bursting into bloom. Swinhoe’s robins. CALEDONIAN forth with volcanic action, with S U N DAY, M AY 24 Pass by historic buildings such as KORSAKOV, SAKHALIN SKY (B,L,D) 40 active volcanoes. Take a the city’s symbolic Clock Tower, ISLAND, RUSSIA / Zodiac cruise past the sheer the university, the charming red- YUZHNO-SAKHALINSK M O N DAY, M AY 25 TYULENIY ISLAND cliffs of uninhabited Broutona brick Old Prefectural Office and Today visit Sakhalin Island’s Upon arrival at Tyuleniy Island, it’s Island, watching for the northern several 1972 Winter Olympics capital, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. immediately evident how it got fulmars and fork-tailed storm sites. After lunch, transfer to the petrels that nest here. Continue port of Otaru to embark our its name, which means “seal” in Russian. Hundreds of northern to the dramatic headlands of ship. CALEDONIAN SKY (B,L,D) Chirpoy Island, also home to fur seals and Steller sea lions cover the beaches—watch bulls thousands of breeding seabirds. defending their harems, males While black-legged kittiwakes and sparring and pups cavorting thick-billed murres are among the in the water. Birds fill more numerous species, we may whatever space the seals also spot red-faced and pelagic and sea lions have cormorants. CALEDONIAN SKY (B,L,D) left unclaimed.
OLD PREFECTURAL OFFICE, SAPPORO, JAPAN FAR EASTERN CURLEW RED FOX W E D N ES DAY, M AY 27 Steller sea lions and northern fur frequent the area. Past voyagers species as the yellow-billed loon, SIMUSHIR ISLAND / seals. CALEDONIAN SKY (B,L,D) have also found hundreds of sea yellow-breasted bunting, common YANKICHA ISLAND otters frolicking in this strait—a greenshank and Far Eastern This morning discover Simushir F R I DAY, M AY 2 9 heartening rejuvenation after curlew. Heading downriver, scan Island’s spectacular geology, LOV YSHKI ISLANDS a brush with near-extinction. the skies for the magnificent which features a string of extinct We next stop at the Lovyshki Step ashore on Atlasova Island, Steller’s sea eagle. Enjoy a volcanoes, well-wooded slopes Islands, small, rocky islets that dominated by its towering farewell reception celebrating our and a flooded crater at its northern offer the perfect resting place 7,600-foot-high Alaid Volcano. voyage this evening before dinner. tip. The crater’s narrow pass opens for thousands upon thousands Stroll along the island’s black sand CALEDONIAN SKY (B,L,D) into a nearly hidden bay that was of northern fur seals. Sightings beaches or take a hike inland over home to a secret Russian military of crested auklets are also a W E D N ES DAY, J U N E 3 tundra bursting with wildflowers. base from 1978 to 1991. Nearly possibility here. CALEDONIAN SKY PETROPAVLOVSK- CALEDONIAN SKY (B,L,D) 2,000 occupants inhabited the (B,L,D) KAMCHATSKY / keyhole harbor, where Russian DISEMBARK / SEOUL, M O N DAY, J U N E 1 SOUTH KOREA submarines were based. Enjoy S AT U R DAY, M AY 3 0 RUSSKAYA BAY, some time to wander among the ONEKOTAN ISLAND KAMCHATKA PENINSULA After breakfast on board, abandoned buildings and other Beautiful Onekotan Island boasts Reminiscent of a Norwegian fjord, disembark the Caledonian Sky relics of this former military base. an impressive 4,000-foot-high the craggy shores of Russkaya and transfer to the airport in During our visit to Yankicha Island, volcano with a deep, almost Bay served as a natural shelter for Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky for observe the fumaroles and hot perfectly circular crater lake in ships in the past. The imposing our charter flight to Seoul, arriving springs located in the flooded its center. Small streams and inland mountains and volcanoes in time for dinner. GRAND HYATT waterfalls tumble down the hillsides INCHEON (B,L,D) caldera that hint at the tremendous add to the dramatic impact of forces that created the island to the beach, while lush tundra this spectacular bay, where we slopes are the habitat for red foxes T H U R S DAY, J U N E 4 long ago. On a nature walk, look find seabirds such as horned SEOUL / U.S. for Arctic foxes, Arctic warblers and myriad bird species, such and tufted puffins, cormorants, Board independent homeward and Middendorff’s grasshopper as the red-throated pipit. Scan kittiwakes and auklets, as well flights, arriving in the U.S. the warblers. CALEDONIAN SKY (B,L,D) the rugged and rocky ledges for as a wealth of marine mammals. same day. (B) seabirds while taking a shoreside CALEDONIAN SKY (B,L,D) T H U R S DAY, M AY 28 walk with our naturalist. The area SREDNEGO STRAIT was once inhabited by the Ainu, T U ES DAY, J U N E 2 Today cruise past the islands and we may have the chance to ZHUPANOVA RIVER near the Srednego Strait. Often investigate ruins of their former Board Zodiacs to negotiate enshrouded in fog, the rugged dwellings. CALEDONIAN SKY (B,L,D) the shallow and meandering columnar stacks of these islands Zhupanova River, with superb are home to thousands of nesting S U N DAY, M AY 31 opportunities for both birding seabirds. Here, we’ll find northern FIRST KURIL STRAIT / and nature walks. Heading ATLASOVA ISLAND fulmars, guillemots, black-legged upstream, we’re likely to spot kittiwakes and whiskered auklets, This afternoon, as we cruise up to 40 species of birds, as well as large populations of through the First Kuril Strait, watch including such special Siberian for the Steller’s sea eagles that
SUN DECK CATEGORY 3 CABIN Caledonian Sky Program Cost* The Caledonian Sky, formerly the Hebridean Spirit, is a 114-passenger Rates are per person, based on double or single occupancy, as specified. premier expedition ship refurbished in 2012. All cabins have an ocean view, DOUBLE SINGLE en suite bathroom with walk-in shower and/or bathtub, spacious wardrobe RATE RATE** or walk-in closet, safe, mini-bar, individually controlled heat/air conditioner, flat-screen television and sitting area with sofa. Eight of the suites feature CATEGORY 1 $14,980 $18,880 Castle Deck, 244 sq. ft., with 2 portholes, shower private balconies. The ship’s amenities include a dining room, two lounges with bar service, library, small gym, sun deck with comfortable lounge chairs, hairdresser, laundry service and gift shop. An elevator services all CATEGORY 2 $15,980 $19,980 passenger cabin decks. The Caledonian Sky’s chefs prepare quality Caledonian Deck, 232 sq. ft., with large window, bathtub, shower (except #329, #330 and #331—shower only) international meals, predominantly Western-style, served in a single open PANORAMA DECK seating. A friendly crew provides exceptional personalized service, with CATEGORY 3 $16,880 — more than a 1:2 crew-to-passenger ratio. The ship features advanced Library Promenade Deck, 217 sq. ft., with large window, shower satellite navigationPanorama and Lounge Sun Deck communication equipment, roll stabilizers and a (except #431 and #432—shower, bathtub) fleet of Zodiac landing craft. Bar Elevator CATEGORY 4 $18,780 $23,480 BRIDGE DECK Promenade Deck, 217 sq. ft., with sliding glass door, shower 511 509 507 505 Outdoor Cafe Bridge Elevator CATEGORY 5 $21,480 — 512 510 508 506 Promenade Deck, 243 sq. ft., with sliding glass door, shower PROMENADE DECK CATEGORY 6 $23,980 — Salon 433 431 427 425 423 421 419 417 415 Bridge Deck, 217 sq. ft., plus 60-sq.-ft., private balcony, Elevator sliding glass doors, walk-in wardrobe, shower, bathtub WC Gym 434 432 428 426 424 422 420 418 416 414 CALEDONIAN DECK *Stanford Alumni Association nonmembers add $300 per person. **Single accommodations may be limited to as few as 2 cabins. Bar 347 345 343 341 339 335 333 331 329 Castle Deck Caledonian Deck Lounge Reception Built: 1991 / Refurbished: 2012 / Weight: 4,200 tons / Elevator 348 346 344 342 340 338 336 334 332 330 Length: 297 feet / Beam: 50 feet / Draft: 14 feet / CATEGORY 1 CATEGORY 2 CATEGORY 3 Cruising Speed: 11 knots / Registry: Bahamas CASTLE DECK 261 259 257 255 Doctor Restaurant Elevator 262 260 258 256 254 252 250
Information Terms & Conditions DATES Deposit & Final Payment for the passenger with respect May 20 to June 4, 2020 (16 days) A $1,000-per-person deposit is to transportation and ship required to reserve space for this arrangements and exercise every SIZE program. A $200-per-person care possible in doing so. However, This program can accommodate a total of 96 participants, deposit is required to reserve space we can assume no liability for for the optional Hokkaido pre-trip injury, damage, loss, accident, including travelers from Stanford and Zegrahm Expeditions. extension. Sign up online at alumni. delay or irregularity in connection Single accommodations are extremely limited; please call stanford.edu/trip?kamchatka2020 with the service of any automobile, for availability. or call the Travel/Study office at motor coach, launch or any other (650) 725-1093. Final payment is conveyance used in carrying INCLUDED due 120 days prior to departure. out this program or for the acts 2 nights of deluxe hotel accommodations 12-night cruise As a condition of participation, all or defaults of any company or aboard the Caledonian Sky 14 breakfasts, 13 lunches and confirmed participants are required person engaged in conveying the 14 dinners Charter flight from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to to sign a Release of Liability. passenger or in carrying out the Seoul on 6/3 Welcome and farewell cocktail receptions arrangements of the program. We Cancellations & Refunds Gratuities to guides, drivers and ship crew for all group activities cannot accept any responsibility for Deposits and any payments are losses or additional expenses due All tours and shore excursions as described in the itinerary refundable, less a $500-per- to delay or changes in air or other Transfers and baggage handling on program arrival and depar- person cancellation fee, until 120 services, sickness, weather, strike, ture days Port fees and embarkation taxes Minimal medi- days prior to departure. After that war, quarantine, force majeure or cal, accident and evacuation insurance Educational program date, refunds can be made only other causes beyond our control. if the program is sold out and with lecture series and pre-departure materials, including recom- All such losses or expenses will your place(s) can be resold, in mended reading list, a selected book, map and travel informa- have to be borne by the passenger which case a $1,000-per-person tion Services of our professional tour manager to assist you as tour rates provide arrangements cancellation fee will apply. only for the time stated. We reserve throughout the program Insurance the right to make such alterations NOT INCLUDED Stanford Travel/Study provides to this published itinerary as may all travelers who are U.S. or be deemed necessary. The right International and U.S. domestic airfare (except for the charter Canadian citizens with minimal is reserved to cancel any program flight above) Passport and visa fees Immunization costs prior to departure in which case medical, accident and evacuation Meals and beverages other than those specified as included coverage under our group-travel the entire payment will be refunded Independent and private transfers Trip-cancellation/inter- insurance policy. Our group policy without further obligation on our ruption and baggage insurance Excess-baggage charges is intended to provide minimal part. The right is also reserved Personal items such as internet access, telephone and fax calls, levels of protection while you are to decline to accept or retain laundry and gratuities for nongroup services traveling on this program. You may any person as a member of the choose to subscribe to optional program. No refund will be made AIR ARRANGEMENTS trip-cancellation and baggage for an unused portion of any tour insurance. Information will be unless arrangements are made in You are responsible for booking and purchasing airfare to the provided to travelers with their sufficient time to avoid penalties. start location and from the end location of the program. These Baggage is carried at the owner’s welcome materials. The product air purchases are NOT included in the program cost. To assist risk entirely. It is understood that offered includes special benefits you in making these independent arrangements, we will send if you purchase your policy within the ship’s ticket, when issued, shall you details with your confirmation materials on when to arrive 14 days of written confirmation of constitute the sole contract between and depart. your participation on the trip. the passenger and the cruise company. The airlines concerned WH AT TO E XPECT Eligibility are not to be held responsible for We encourage membership in the any act, omission or event during For most activities, a relatively moderate level of exertion is re- Stanford Alumni Association as the time that passengers are not quired. You will need to climb, unaided, in and out of Zodiacs for the program cost for nonmembers on board their plane or conveyance. excursions ashore. Many of the landings will be “wet” and require is $300 more than the members’ Neither the Stanford Alumni that you wear waterproof, knee-high boots. Ashore, you must price. A person traveling as a paid Association, Stanford University be able to walk moderate distances over occasionally rough and guest of a current member will nor our operators accept liability for often slippery terrain. We’ve designed our shore excursions to not be charged the nonmember any carrier’s cancellation penalty accommodate both those who enjoy gentle strolls and those who fee. To purchase a membership, incurred by the purchase of a visit alumni.stanford.edu/goto/ nonrefundable ticket in connection prefer more active hikes. Summer temperatures in the Kamchatka membership or call (650) 725-0692. with the tour. Program price is region range from approximately 40 (ºF) to the low 60s, but can based on rates in effect in March get down into the high 30s, and high winds are also possible. Responsibility 2019 and is subject to change Flexibility is a must, as itineraries are subject to change, and land- The Stanford Alumni Association, without notice to reflect fluctuations Stanford University and our ings may be tidal- or weather-dependent. We welcome travelers in exchange rates, tariffs or fuel operators act only as agents 15 years of age and older on this program. charges. TELEPHONE (650) 725-1093 EMAIL travelstudy@alumni.stanford.edu California Seller of Travel Program Registration #2048 523-50 © COPYRIGHT 2019 STANFORD ALUMNI ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED ON RECYCLED, FSC-CERTIFIED PAPER IN THE U.S.
Stanford Travel/Study Nonprofit Org. Frances C. Arrillaga Alumni Center U.S. Postage 326 Galvez Street PAID Stanford, CA 94305-6105 Stanford Alumni (650) 725-1093 Association A WILDLIFE AND BIRDING EXPEDITION ABOARD THE CALEDONIAN SK Y M ay 20 to J un e 4, 2020 alumni.stanford.edu/goto/travelstudy “I can’t imagine a better way to visit such a remote area.” R O B E R T W I N T H R O P, ’ 6 9 , G R E E N L A N D T O I C E L A N D , 2 018 YANKICHA ISLAND, KURIL ISLANDS, RUSSIA
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