Christophe Claret Collection 2018-2019
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The master watchmaker There was nothing to suggest that the young Christophe Claret would eventually make the cycle of time his own. It was only after a chance visit to a watchmaker-resto- rer at the age of 14 that the possibility presented itself. From that point on, the mechanics of time would grow to become his passion. At just 19 years of age, he gra- duated from the Geneva Watchmaking School, conti- nuing his education with the master watchmaker Roger Dubuis who, in taking him under his wing, passed on the secrets of restoration and the mysteries of complex horological mechanisms. Upon returning to his native city of Lyon, Christophe Claret set up his first horological workshop in the family home. He decided to specialize in restoring antique timepieces, perfecting his finishing techniques and crafting open-work or ”skeletonized” watches. 1987 was a year of revelation: during his first visit to the Baselworld international watch fair, Christophe Claret met a man who would alter the course of his life. Rolf Schnyder, a Swiss industrialist who had just acquired the Ulysse Nardin brand, placed an order with Mr Claret for twenty minute repeater movements with San Marco jacquemarts. It provided the impetus he needed and two years later Mr Claret founded his first company, which was soon followed by another, Manufacture Claret. Within a decade, the name Christophe Claret became a benchmark in the field of complicated movements. Following on from Ulysse Nardin, seventeen other presti- gious customers, including Franck Muller, de Grisogono, 2
Girard-Perregaux, Jean Dunand and Harry Winston, From 2002 to 2008, Manufacture Claret expanded turned to him to develop their most complex calibers. its workshops by a further 2000 m2. Today, operating Christophe Claret therefore decided to establish his at the cutting edge of technology and expertise, it company within a setting worthy of his reputation and employs almost a hundred highly qualified experts in his ambitions. In 1999, Christophe Claret acquired the over thirty separate disciplines. Manoir du Soleil d’Or, a venerable mansion on the hills overlooking the nearby town of Le Locle, a stone’s throw While continuing to design exceptional movements from the Musée d’Horlogerie des Monts. There he set for the most prestigious brands, Christophe Claret up his workshops, breathing new life into the residence also produces watches bearing his own name, often formerly owned by the watchmaker Urban Jürgensen. one-of-a-kind creations commissioned by collec- tors won over by Mr Claret’s superlative horological mastery. Initially a low-key activity, his Christophe Claret branded pieces gained a higher profile in 2009 when he created the DualTow to celebrate the Manufacture’s 20th anniversary. This mechanical dis- tillation of all of the watchmaker’s talent unlocked a freedom to create which resulted in highly complex, exclusive pieces. The Christophe Claret brand now belongs to the extremely exclusive circle of independent Haute Horlogerie brands that design, develop and produce their watches entirely in-house. An exceptional position at the heart of Swiss watchmaking, placing it firmly at the forefront of horological innovation. 3
An exceptional Manufacture for an exceptional brand To gain recognition in the world of Haute Horlogerie is name of Christophe Claret Engineering. The Flashcut something that very few watchmakers can now expect Laser cutting machine designed by the company offers to accomplish. In order to succeed, Christophe Claret as yet unrivaled accuracy and speed. The simultaneous constantly reviews the Manufacture’s quality criteria. 16-axis CNC, which took three years to design and Respect for watchmaking traditions and time-honoured develop, is used to produce the Manufacture’s most savoir faire go hand in hand with a quest for innovation complex mainplates and cases. and excellence. New models start their life in the design department. Because he understands that environment influences Movement design engineers, watch exterior design creativity and quality, Christophe Claret has always made engineers, designers and computer graphics specia- sure that his staff enjoy superior working conditions. The lists all give shape and color to the exceptional com- offices and workshops are regularly refurbished, and the plications conceived by Christophe Claret. Then it’s organization of work is fine-tuned to encourage com- over to the watchmaking ateliers. munication and cooperation. Staff benefit from state- of-the-art equipment in a beautifully tranquil setting. The hundreds of components that make up the movements are painstakingly produced by the very Every year, Christophe Claret invests in new machines finest craftsmen, assisted by state-of-the-art tech- and tools, often designing his own machines under the nology. CNC operators, bar turners, electroplaters, 4
case finishers and heat treatment specialists per- All of the components then undergo stringent testing form the ultra-precise movements that characterize in the ”TCR” (Testing, Certification and Reliability) this extremely demanding discipline. atelier, where they receive their certificate of produc- tion. Chiming watches are subject to particular scru- Alongside the machines, the nimble fingers of the tiny: to guarantee a perfect melody, the quality of the craftsmen and watchmakers practice their discipline gongs, the frequency and the duration of the notes like an art belonging to a bygone era, yet paradoxi- and their intervals are all computer-tested. Each piece cally more alive today than ever. Haute Horlogerie is then undergoes a final validation by Christophe Claret one of the few sectors that could not have survived himself. without these extremely specialized skills, finely honed and often drawing on traditional craftsmanship. A large part of the work is carried out exclusively by hand. And therein lies the magic of Haute Horlogerie. Specialists in chamfering, trimming, straight-graining and decoration draw on years of experience often handed down from generation to generation. The guilloché, engraving and enameling work is entrusted to only the very finest craftsmen in Switzerland. Finally, the master watchmakers of the Manufacture assemble each and every part of the movement, from A to Z. 5
Philosophy The Neuchâtel mountain region is home to almost Because he has grasped the fact that surroundings pro- one-third of the Swiss watchmaking workforce, and foundly influence creativity, the master watchmaker has thus to a body of expertise and skills that is unique always made it his duty to offer his personnel a plea- in the world. That is precisely why Christophe Claret sant working environment. Offices and workshops are chose to set up his business there in 1989. Nonetheless, therefore regularly improved, and the work organiza- the master watchmaker would never be content with tion is tailored to enhance individual well-being, since merely redoing things that have already been done. Christophe Claret is well aware that an exceptional arti- He is resolutely oriented towards invention, constantly san must feel good in order to be effective. pushing the envelope, exploring uncharted territory and suggesting original ways of reading the time. The greatest professionals are thus able to work with Within the Manoir du Soleil d’Or, everything is orga- ultra-modern equipment in a serene and peaceful nized in such a way as to ensure that ideas flow freely, setting. That is how Christophe Claret views Haute are confronted with those of others and thus forged Horlogerie, as a collective challenge that is met by through such constant contact between different skills. passion and perseverance, nurtured by emotions and dreams. At the Manoir du Soleil d’Or, the word “impos- Christophe Claret watches are an inspired reflection sible” has long since been banished from the com- of watchmaking genius expressed through its most pany’s vocabulary, and replaced instead by the term powerful manifestation: perpetual emotion. Playful, “challenge”. creative and unconventional, these genuine master- pieces are intended for devotees of rare and subtly Since 1989, the watchmaker has been seeking to put offbeat products that are nonetheless firmly posi- together a set of ideal conditions for the birth of prodi- tioned in the sphere of Haute Horlogerie. gious, atypical and excellent horological mechanisms. Christophe Claret has never swerved from this highly In his constant quest for three-dimensional innovations, demanding path towards absolute perfection and Christophe Claret draws upon the best of traditions in culminating in a range of extraordinary watches. order to forge his own legend. Like the distinguished multi-starred chefs who practice the art of haute cuisine by working with classic products, he creates tomorrow’s watches while respective the immense legacy of Haute Horlogerie. His credo: ”In watchmaking, everything has already been done; everything has yet to be invented.” 7
Workshops Christophe Claret is a perfectionist. In this respect, he loves to quote Leonardo da Vinci: “Details make perfection, but perfection is no detail.” This leit- motif is also that of the personnel active within the Manufacture. All have been chosen from among the finest artisans and workers in the region, in order to uphold its level of excellence. Each step, in each workshop, embodies a fresh challenge. Quality control is omnipresent. All the main watchmaking professions are represented at Christophe Claret. 9
Brand Values Creativity, Exploration, Research, Know-How Manufacture, Excellence, Precision, Advanced skills Dreams, Emotions D I FFE R E N C E Unconventional inspirations, Originality, Smartness, Surprises High-end timepieces, Niche products, Bespoke creations, Rare innovations, Limited one-of-a-kind creations 10
Collections TRAD ITIO N AL CO M P LICATIO N S WATC H ES Reinterpreting Haute Horlogerie. For Christophe Claret, the rich heritage of watchmaking is an unlimited field of inquiry. His complications reinvent and revolutionize traditional horology, offering a fresh approach and masterful complexity. Watchmaking is an art form at Manufacture Claret. Each time- piece adds a distinctive, contemporary twist to centuries of traditional watchmaking. GAM IN G CO M P LICATIO N S WATC H ES Transforming time. Here, time is complemented by original complications turning your wristwatch into a fully-functional casino. These interactive timepieces feature ingenious mechanisms that faithfully replicate the rules of gaming classics. Time is no longer of the essence: it is spent playing at the roulette wheel, at the card table or at games of chance. One thing not left to chance, though, is the quality of the timepieces and their movements. E XTRE ME CO M P LICATIO N S WATC H ES Pushing the boundaries of time. In this collection, cutting-edge research and experimentation govern the design of state- of-the-art timepieces in which engineering and mechanics are on full display. Deviating from the beaten track of horology, these avant-garde creations open up new, previously unexplored watchmaking horizons with uncompromising technology. L AD I ES’ CO M P LICATIO N S WATC H ES Timepieces that put ladies first. Expressed through elegant and poetic esthetics, pervaded by continuously reinvented technical mastery, Haute Horlogerie now comes in a feminine form. Far from being a simple variation of men’s watches, this Christophe Claret collection embodies feminine complexity in these veritable masterpieces. 11
Maestro Its name is inspired by the excellence of the master watchmaker. Its sleek style epit- omizes mechanical power. At the crossroads between aesthetics and technicality, the Maestro showcases an original take on the horological creativity of Christophe Claret. Its glass dome provides a striking, almost dizzying view of the movement architecture and the famous Charles X bridges. Endowed with a seven-day power reserve, a cone-shaped large date display and a 3D MEMO function, Maestro asserts itself as the first Haute Complication watch by Christophe Claret with a price tag under CHF 100,000. Nonconformist, dynamic, quintessential… It brings a fresh and youthful touch to the Traditional collection. Play it, Maestro! 17
Maestro Maestro Maestro MTR.DMC16.000-088 MTR.DMC16.100-188 MTR.DMC16.200-228 Case: 5N red gold Case: Grade 5 titanium Case: 5N red gold Hands: Black chrome-plated and Hands: Black chrome-plated and Lugs: Set with 16 diamonds (2.43 carats) red anodized aluminum, with blue anodized aluminum, with Bezel ring: Set with 48 diamonds and 12 natural Super-Luminova® Super-Luminova® pigeon blood rubies (4.22 carats) Crown: 5N red gold Crown: Stainless steel Bridges: 4N pink gold, set with 162 diamonds Strap: Black alligator Strap: Black alligator (0.60 carat) Hands: Black chrome-plated and 88-piece limited series 88-piece limited series red anodized aluminum, with Super-Luminova® Crown: 5N red gold with one cabochon-cut natural pigeon blood ruby (0.10 carat) Strap: Black alligator 18 28-piece limited series
Maestro Maestro Maestro MTR.DMC16.290-318 MTR.DMC16.230-258 MTR.DMC16.260-288 Case: Platinum Case: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Case: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Lugs: Set with 16 diamonds (2.43 carats) Hands: Black chrome-plated and Hands: Black chrome-plated and Bezel ring: Set with 48 diamonds and 12 blue green lacquered sapphire, with orange lacquered sapphire, with sapphires ( 4.22 carats) Super-LumiNova® Super-LumiNova® Bridges: Rhodium-plated, set with Snake: 4N pink gold, SpectraCoat green Snake: 4N pink gold, hand-painted (orange) 162 diamonds (0.60 carat) Crown: Black PVD-treated stainless steel, Crown: Black PVD-treated stainless steel, Hands: Black chrome-plated and with cabochon-cut tsavorite with cabochon-cut orange sapphire blue lacquered sapphire, with Strap: Two straps supplied: one in green Strap: Two straps supplied: one in orange Super-Luminova® Mamba snakeskin and one in black Pantherophis snakeskin and one in Crown: White gold with one cabochon-cut python black python blue sapphire (0.10 carat) Strap: Black alligator 28-piece limited series 28-piece limited series 19 28-piece limited series
Allegro A master watchmaker with 30 years of experience, Christophe Claret has combined the finest horological complications in Allegro: minute repeater with cathedral gongs, GMT with day/night indicator, big date and small seconds. These features are all found in a completely redesigned movement featuring a unique regulator that was designed and manufactured in-house. The round case harmoniously blends either 5N red gold or white gold with titanium. An opening in the sapphire dial reveals the striking mechanism. The transparent dial allows the wearer to marvel at the movement’s architecture, featuring Charles X style skeletonized, stepped bridges. With this timepiece, the conductor of this musical horological orchestra from Le Locle proves he is at the zenith of his art. 23
Allegro Allegro MTR.ALG89.000-020 MTR.ALG89.030-050 Case: 5N red gold and anthracite Case: White gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Dial: Smoked sapphire with 4N pink gold Dial: Smoked sapphire with rhodium-plated raised indications raised indications Hands: Orange lacquered sapphire Hands: Black lacquered sapphire and anthracite and anthracite PVD-treated, PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® with Super-LumiNova® Crown: White gold and anthracite Crown: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator Strap: Black alligator 20-piece limited series 20-piece limited series 24
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Maestoso Maestoso has written a new chapter in the history of Haute Horlogerie. And the challenge? To equip a wristwatch with a traditional detent escapement, a mech- anism usually designed to run in a perfectly stabilized position, and which, thanks to its sublime beauty, manages to eclipse the tourbillon. Enabling the mechanism to operate in all the positions that wearing a wristwatch entails – without resorting to the convenience of a modern, shorter detent – is a genuine gamble, pulled off via the three patents and a series of additional innovative systems. To prevent the detent from turning over, an anti-pivot cam, incorporated into the sprung balance, works in conjunction with the safety finger. To cope with the risks of over-banking, a flexible thrust bearing fitted on the wheel and connected to the balance absorbs any excess energy. Christophe Claret has also endowed the watch with a constant-force device, guaranteeing stable energy and amplitude throughout the power reserve. 29
Maestoso Maestoso MTR.DTC07.060-080 MTR.DTC07.030-050 Case: 5N red gold Case: 5N red gold and anthracite Hands: Red ruby and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® Hands: Black lacquered sapphire and anthracite Crown: 5N red gold PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® Strap: Anthracite alligator Crown: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium 20-piece limited series Strap: Black alligator 20-piece limited series 30
Maestoso MTR.DTC07.000-020 Case: White gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® Crown: White gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator 20-piece limited series 31
Soprano The Soprano features a musically accurate four-note minute repeater striking Westminster Quarters on patented cathedral gongs, a 60-second tourbillon and Charles X style bridges, all visible on the spectacular dial-free watch face. The Soprano pays homage to the roots of Manufacture Claret, which has innovated in striking complications, tourbillons and sapphire components since its earliest years. In 1997, Christophe Claret was indeed the first to incorporate sapphire components – comprising plates and Charles X style bridges − in a wristwatch movement. The Soprano is a timepiece of contrasts: traditional Haute Horlogerie with state-of- the-art manufacturing; historical complications with contemporary design; audible indications with visual displays; noble gold with high-tech titanium; and metal components with sapphire elements. 35
Soprano Soprano MTR.TRD98.030-038 MTR.TRD98.040-048 Case: 5N red gold and brown Case: White gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Hands: Orange lacquered sapphire and anthracite Hands: Black lacquered sapphire and anthracite PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® Crown: 5N red gold and brown Crown: White gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Strap: Brown alligator Strap: Black alligator 8-piece limited series 8-piece limited series 36
Soprano MTR.TRD98.050-058 Case: White gold and slate blue PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Hands: Blue lacquered sapphire and black PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® Crown: White gold and slate blue PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Strap: Navy blue alligator 8-piece limited series 37
Kantharos This creation from Christophe Claret embodies a stunning blend of high horology expertise and high-tech precision. This mono-pusher chronograph with striking mechanism and constant-force device asserts its own identity codes and reinvents the measurement of short times. Its cathedral gong audibly chimes with each change of function of the self-winding chronograph. The cathedral gong, an acknowledged champion in the field of chiming watches, is visible at 10 o’clock and equipped with a patented system that avoids the gongs bumping into each other. In addition to this innovative complication, Kantharos is also equipped with a constant-force device. Majestically enthroned on the dial side at 6 o’clock, this clever mechanism is a key component that considerably reduces the watch’s variations in rate. The energy delivered to the escapement remains constant from beginning to end of the power reserve. Precision is the overriding goal. The perpetually moving mechanism exercises a hypnotic visual effect that may be admired beneath a meticulously chamfered sapphire bridge revealing the full extent of the master watchmaker’s know-how. 41
Kantharos Kantharos MTR.MBA13.905 MTR.MBA13.901 Case: 5N red gold and anthracite Case: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Dial: 4N pink gold-colored Dial: Black rhodium-plated Hands: Black lacquered sapphire and black rho- Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated, dium-plated, with Super-LumiNova® with Super-LumiNova® Crown: 5N red gold and anthracite Crown: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator Strap: Black alligator Numbered series Numbered series 42
Kantharos Kantharos MTR.MBA13.902 MTR.MBA13.904 Case: White gold and anthracite Case: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Dial: Black rhodium-plated Dial: Black rhodium-plated Hands: Blue lacquered sapphire and black Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated, PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® with Super-LumiNova® Crown: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Crown: White gold and anthracite Strap: Black alligator PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator Numbered series Numbered series 43
Aventicum Christophe Claret has always been intrigued by the history of Aventicum, which was the capital of Roman Helvetia for more than 300 years and the ruins of which now lie near the Swiss town of Avenches. Even today at the Aventicum excavation sites, archae- ologists continue to unearth precious artefacts dating from this rich era of antiquity. Among the excavated objects was a priceless finding: a solid gold bust of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, which was found in 1939 when an old pipe was being cleaned. A micro-engraved gold replica of the Marcus Aurelius bust can be found in the center of the dial. The faithful, small-scale representation of the Emperor – measuring less than three millimeters – is displayed in magnified form thanks to a clever invention called the mirascope. In implementing this optical effect in Aventicum, the bust of Marcus Aurelius looks as if it is thrusting out of the middle of the watch. Turning over Aventicum, the patented, transparent sapphire-winding rotor of the auto- matic movement can be admired through the display back. The rotor is embellished with five numbered Roman Gaul racing chariots in full swing of a thrilling competition. Mecca Exactly like the effigy of Emperor Marcus Aurelius enthroned at the heart of the Aventicum model, the micro-engraving of the Kaaba monument symbolizing the Muslim faith is highlighted by the mirascope and appears to be literally bursting out of the dial. The Mecca timepiece features a wealth of emblematic elements and references to the Muslim faith. The Arabic hour numerals are replaced at 5 o’clock by a natural diamond and at 7 o’clock by a black spinel. The latter symbolizes the black stone located at the South-East angle of the Kaaba through which Muslims start the seven rounds of the Tawaf in a counterclockwise direction. The natural diamond represents this same stone, as described in the Koran before it became black due to repeated touching by pilgrims. Mirascope The ball-bearing cover is adorned with a transfer depicting the Kaaba, with the move- ment’s self-winding oscillating weight rotating around it. Crafted in sapphire so as to reveal the meticulous movement finishing, the oscillating weight bears a transferred world map featuring white dots symbolizing Muslims turning around the Kaaba. Sixty- three passionate enthusiasts will have the chance to wear the Mecca timepiece on their wrist. Sixty-three, corresponding to the age of the prophet Mohammed when he died… 47
Aventicum Aventicum MTR.AVE15.070-107 MTR.AVE15.001-068 Case: White gold and anthracite Case: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with a 3N yellow gold micro-engraving a 3N yellow gold micro-engraving of the bust of Marcus Aurelius of the bust of Marcus Aurelius Hands: Anodized black, 3N yellow gold tips Hands: Anodized black, 4N pink gold tips Crown: White gold and anthracite Crown: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator Strap: Black alligator 38-piece limited series 68-piece limited series 48
Mecca Mecca MTR.AVE15.200-263 MTR.AVE15.300-363 Case: Grade 5 titanium and anthracite Case: Grade 5 titanium with PVD-treated grade 5 titanium a micro-engraving of the Kaaba with a micro-engraving of the Kaaba Hands: Anodized black, 3N yellow gold tips Hands: Anodized black, 3N yellow gold tips Crown: Grade 5 titanium Crown: Grade 5 titanium and anthracite Strap: Black alligator PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator 63-piece limited series 63-piece limited series 49
POKER Poker is the latest addition to Christophe Claret’s trilogy of Gaming Complications watches. Users can immerse themselves in real three-player games of the most popular variant of poker : Texas Hold’em. As a recap of the rules, a game of Texas Hold’em starts with two closed cards being dealt to each player, i.e. visible only to the player. Five other open cards are dealt out in stages : three, known as the flop, after the first betting round ; an additional card, the turn, after another betting round ; and finally a last, the river. To have the best hand in Texas Hold’em poker, the player must have the best possible combination of five cards from the seven in their hand. In total, Poker packs in 32,768 different combinations, i.e. 98,304 combinations for three players. The probabilities have been calculated so that everyone has approximately the same chances of winning. True to his mastery of chiming watches, Christophe Claret equipped Poker with a cathe- dral gong, which sounds whenever the flop and turn/river pushers are pressed. The transparent case-back provides a view of the oscillating winding rotor in the form of a roulette wheel. This rotor design is already an icon of the Christophe Claret Gaming Complications collection. Once activated by one or two shaking motions, the roulette turns for a few moments before stopping : no more bets please! An arrow points to one of the 37 numbers on an inner ring. 55
POKER POKER MTR.PCK05.021-040 MTR.PCK05.001-020 Case: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated Case: White gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium grade 5 titanium Dial: Black PVD-treated skeletonized cards motif Dial: Black PVD-treated skeletonized cards motif 4N pink gold-colored steel blinds Steel blinds Hands: Orange lacquered sapphire and black Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® Crown: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated Crown: White gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator Strap: Black alligator 20-piece limited series 20-piece limited series 56
POKER POKER MTR.PCK05.041-060 MTR.PCK05.061-080 Case: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Case: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Dial: Black PVD-treated skeletonized cards motif Dial: Black PVD-treated skeletonized cards motif Steel blinds Steel blinds Hands: Blue lacquered sapphire and black Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® PVD-treated, with Super-LumiNova® Crown: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Crown: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator Strap: Black alligator 20-piece limited series 20-piece limited series 57
BACCARA Baccara is a timepiece doubling as a miniature casino with three games: baccarat, roulette and dice. The Baccara cards appear on the dial as if by magic. At 6 o’clock, the player’s cards are distributed in three small windows. The banker’s cards are at 12 o’clock. To shuffle the cards, the player presses a pusher located at 9 o’clock while a pusher at 8 o’clock dis- tributes the cards to the players. At 10 o’clock, a third pusher organizes distribution to the bank. Every time the shutter opens, for either the player or the bank, a cathedral gong can be seen through a caseband window at 2 o’clock. Next is the game of craps. There are two dice measuring 1.5 mm on each side that are visible through a small window on the side of the case at the 4 o’clock position. The final game is roulette. The roulette wheel is located on the back of the timepiece and is visible through the glare-proofed sapphire crystal. The roulette wheel further serves as the winding rotor for the timepiece. When playing, an arrow indicates the winning number. Clients also have the option of selecting the lucky number of their choice from the roulette wheel to align with a “lucky” emerald set in the watch case. On the sapphire crystal, the lucky Chinese ideogram is revealed when one blows on the crystal. It appears in the mist as if by magic for several seconds. 61
BACCARA BACCARA MTR.BCR09.020-029 MTR.BCR09.120-129 DRAGON DRAGON Case: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated Case: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium grade 5 titanium Dial: Black PVD-treated skeletonized dragon motif Dial: Burma jade and 4N pink gold-colored Hands: Orange lacquered sapphire and black metallization, dragon motif PVD-treated Hands: Black lacquered sapphire and black Crown: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Crown: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated Strap: Black alligator grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator 9-piece limited series 9-piece limited series 62
BACCARA BACCARA MTR.BCR09.010-019 (WHITE GOLD) MTR.BCR09.130-139 MTR.BCR09.070-079 (PLATINUM) DRAGON DRAGON Case: White gold and black PVD-treated Case: White gold or platinum and black grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Dial: Lapis lazuli and rhodium-plated Dial: Black PVD-treated skeletonized dragon motif metallization, dragon motif Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated Hands: Blue lacquered sapphire and black Crown: White gold and black PVD-treated PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Crown: White gold and black PVD-treated Strap: Black alligator grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator 9-piece limited series 9-piece limited series 63
BLACKJACK A real miniature casino, the Blackjack matches grand complications with the world of gambling. In addition to transparency, relief, and the passage of time, Christophe Claret adds the sensory effects of blackjack, roulette and dice. To start with there is Dice. This game features a pair of miniature dice – located in a cage at the 4 o’clock position on the side of the case and visible through a sapphire crystal – offering the oldest game of chance. Next, Roulette: on the back of the watch the winding rotor – also visible through a glareproofed sapphire crystal – serves as the roulette wheel. Once set in motion by one or two undulatory movements, the wheel turns for a few moments before stopping. Then comes Blackjack, which consists of drawing cards to equal or to come as close as possible to 21 points. On the lower part of the dial, between 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, the player’s four cards appear in windows. Two are visible, the other two hidden by shutters. On the upper part of the dial are three additional windows for the dealer’s cards, one of which is visible, the other two also hidden by shutters. Each time a shutter opens, whether for the player or the dealer, there is a gong, whose mechanism is visible through a side window at 2 o’clock. 67
BLACKJACK BLACKJACK MTR.BLJ08.130-151 MTR.BLJ08.370-391 ONYX TIGER Case: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated Case: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium grade 5 titanium Dial: Black onyx Dial: Black PVD-treated skeletonized tiger motif Hands: Orange lacquered sapphire and black Hands: Orange lacquered sapphire and black PVD-treated PVD-treated Crown: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated Crown: 5N red gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator Strap: Black alligator 21-piece limited series 21-piece limited series 68
BLACKJACK BLACKJACK MTR.BLJ08.000-021 MTR.BLJ08.190-211 CARDS CARDS Case: White gold and black Case: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Dial: Black rhodium-plated skeletonized Dial: Black rhodium-plated skeletonized cards motif cards motif Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated Crown: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium Crown: White gold and black PVD-treated Strap: Black alligator grade 5 titanium Strap: Black alligator 21-piece limited series 21-piece limited series 69
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X-TREM-1 Christophe Claret is taking a quantum leap forward with the X-TREM concept – an Haute Horlogerie collection that aims to explore spheres of research rarely or never applied to watchmaking – until now. X-TREM-1, the first model in this new generation of timepieces, represents a major technical and aesthetic accomplishment: a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium mainplate, equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny hollowed steel spheres, isolated within tubes, have been placed to the left and right sides of the case and move in a mysterious manner with no me- chanical connection thanks to magnetic fields. The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels – a necessity in this case, since they enable the use of a high energy-consuming display mode without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus that of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, and the second for the hours and minutes. 75
X-TREM-1 X-TREM-1 MTR.FLY11.090-098 MTR.FLY11.120-128 Case: 5N red gold and brown Case: White gold and slate blue PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with 5N red gold metallized numerals white gold metallized numerals Sapphire tubes Sapphire tubes Spheres: 4N pink gold-colored stainless steel Spheres: Stainless steel Strap: Brown alligator Strap: Navy blue alligator 8-piece limited series 8-piece limited series 76
X-TREM-1 MTR.FLY11.100-108 Case: White gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with white gold metallized numerals Sapphire tubes Spheres: Stainless steel Strap: Black alligator 8-piece limited series 77
X-TREM-1 by STINGHD X-TREM-1 MTR.FLY11.160-168 MTR.FLY11.150-158 Case: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with red Case: 5N red gold and black lacquered numerals. Black PVD-treated grade 5 PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with titanium cylindrical ring-bound tubes. 5N red gold metallized numerals A skull appears on the sapphire crystal when 5N red gold cylindrical ring-bound tubes breathed upon. Spheres: White chrome-treated stainless steel Spheres: Stainless steel, red-colored Strap: Black alligator Strap: Two straps supplied: one in black stingray leather and the other personalized. One 8-piece limited series complimentary matching, handcrafted bracelet adorned with a black diamond encrusted skull with ruby eyes 78 8-piece limited series
X-TREM-1 X-TREM-1 MTR.FLY11.130-138 MTR.FLY11.140-148 Case: White gold and damascened stainless steel Case: 5N red gold and damascened stainless steel with black lacquered numerals with 5N red gold numerals Sapphire tubes Sapphire tubes Spheres: Black chrome-treated stainless steel Spheres: 4N pink gold-colored stainless steel Strap: Anthracite alligator Strap: Anthracite alligator 8-piece limited series 8-piece limited series 79
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Margot Margot is Christophe Claret’s first ladies’ watch complication. It features an ingenious mechanism that helps to predict – or at least tries to – one of nature’s paramount questions: “Does he love me?” A simple press of the pusher at 2 o’clock brings the watch to life. With each press, a petal – sometimes a pair of petals, it is impossible to foresee – subtly disappears under the dial in a smooth action, perfectly depicting the delicate undressing of the flower. The eagerly-awaited answer appears at random in calligraphic letters (in French) on the dial at 4 o’clock: Un peu (a little) – beaucoup (a lot) – passionnément (passionately) – à la folie (madly) – pas du tout (not at all). At each press of the pusher, a distinct, crystalline chime resonates, audibly signaling the pace of the game. The display back reveals the automatic winding rotor, a delicately carved, flower-shaped carrousel of colors symbolizing sentiments of love, with a central cabochon conceal- ing the rotor’s ball bearings. Each one of the eight resplendent triangular precious stones denote a feeling: hope, passion, tenderness… Which one will line up with the red-lacquered heart when the flower halts its waltz? 85
Margot Margot MTR.EMT17.090-110 MTR.EMT17.060-080 Case: 5N red gold, baguette-set Case: 5N red gold, snow-set 69 diamonds, 4.8 carats 424 diamonds, 2.2 carats Top lugs framing a hexagonal diamond Dial: Pink mother-of-pearl Dial: Pink mother-of-pearl White gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds White gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds Hands: Steel with 4N pink gold tips Hands: Steel with 4N pink gold tips Pushers: 5N red gold Pushers: 5N red gold Strap: White alligator Strap: White alligator 5N red gold prong-set with snow-set diamonds 5N red gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds 20-piece limited series 20-piece limited series 86
Margot Margot MTR.EMT17.000-020 MTR.EMT17.030-050 Case: White gold, baguette-set Case: White gold, snow-set 69 diamonds, 4.8 carats 424 diamonds, 2.2 carats Top lugs framing a hexagonal diamond Dial: Blue mother-of-pearl Dial: Blue mother-of-pearl White gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds White gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds Hands: Blued steel with 3N yellow gold tips Hands: Blued steel with 3N yellow gold tips Pushers: White gold Pushers: White gold Strap: White alligator Strap: White alligator White gold prong-set with snow-set diamonds White gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds 20-piece limited series 20-piece limited series 87
Layla Margot Velours MTR.EMT17.150-170 MTR.EMT18.000-020 Case: 5N red gold, baguette-set Case: White gold and slate blue PVD-treated grade 5 69 diamonds, 4.8 carats titanium, bead-set Top lugs framing an emerald 64 diamonds, 4.6 carats Dial: Pink mother-of-pearl Dial: Dark blue mother-of-pearl White gold prong-set with emeralds White gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds Hands: Steel with 4N pink gold tips Hands: Steel with blued tips Pushers: 5N red gold Pushers: White gold Strap: Emerald green alligator Strap: Blue alligator, velvet look 5N red gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds Stainless steel screws, set with diamonds 20-piece limited series 20-piece limited series 88
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Marguerite At the heart of this watchmaking fable, two graceful butterflies flit around a daisy to give the time. The darker one, symbolizing the female, is perched on a daisy petal that rotates every hour. The lighter one, embodying the male, sits lightly atop a stem attached to the pistil and indicates the minutes. In addition to the time indication, the dial presents a second display. One press on the pusher at 2 o’clock makes the numbers disappear to reveal a personalized secret message. Releasing the pusher makes the hour display reappear instantly. On the back, the owner can indulge in the “He loves me, he loves me not” game, the simplified English version of daisy petals, invented in the 18th century. In order to play, the watch must be placed in a horizontal position and accompanied by one or two undulating movements. The oscillating weight then turns for a few seconds prior to standing still. The stone closest to the red-lacquered heart provides the response (the indications “yes” or “no” are in the center). 93
Marguerite (Ø42mm) Marguerite (Ø42mm) Marguerite (Ø42mm) MTR.MT115.200-230 MTR.MT115.000-030 MTR.MT115.080-110 Case: 5N red gold, snow-set Case: White gold, flake-set Case: 5N red gold, champagne-set 388 diamonds, 2.12 carats 100 diamonds, 1.03 carat 98 diamonds, 0.86 carat Dial: White mother-of-pearl, Dial: White mother-of-pearl, Dial: White mother-of-pearl, 4N pink gold metallized sapphire black metallized sapphire 4N pink gold metallized Hands: 4N pink gold-colored with Hands: Rhodium-plated with sapphire butterflies in dark or light orange butterflies in dark or light red Hands: 4N pink gold-colored with but- Super-LumiNova®. Petals set Super-LumiNova® terflies in dark or light orange with 221 diamonds, 0.37 carat Crown: White gold Super-LumiNova® Crown: 5N red gold Strap: Red alligator Crown: 5N red gold Strap: Red alligator Strap: Red alligator 30-piece limited series 94 30-piece limited series 30-piece limited series
Marguerite (Ø42mm) Marguerite (Ø42mm) Marguerite (Ø42mm) MTR.MT115.120-150 MTR.MT115.160-190 MTR.MT115.040-070 Case: 5N red gold, flake-set Case: 5N red gold, champagne-set Case: White gold, champagne-set 100 diamonds, 1.03 carat 98 diamonds, 0.86 carat 98 diamonds, 0.86 carat Dial: White mother-of-pearl, Dial: White mother-of-pearl, Dial: White mother-of-pearl, blue metallized sapphire 4N pink gold metallized blue metallized sapphire Hands: 4N pink gold-colored with sapphire Hands: Rhodium-plated with butterflies in dark or light blue Hands: 4N pink gold-colored with butterflies in dark or Super-LumiNova® butterflies in dark or light light blue Super-LumiNova® Crown: 5N red gold green Super-LumiNova® Crown: White gold Strap: Blue alligator Crown: 5N red gold Strap: Blue alligator Strap: Green alligator 30-piece limited series 30-piece limited series 30-piece limited series 95
Marguerite (Ø37mm) Marguerite (Ø37mm) MTR.MT113.000-030 MTR.MT113.040-070 Case: 5N red gold, snow-set Case: 5N red gold, champagne-set 315 diamonds, 1.82 carat 98 diamonds, 0.86 carat Dial: White mother-of-pearl, Dial: White mother-of-pearl, 4N pink gold metallized sapphire purple metallized sapphire Hands: 4N pink gold-colored with butterflies in Hands: 4N pink gold-colored with butterflies in dark or light orange Super-LumiNova®. dark or light orange Super-LumiNova®. Petals set with 143 diamonds, 0.35 carat Petals lacquered in graded shades ran- Crown: 5N red gold ging from 5N red gold to matt white Strap: Red alligator Crown: 5N red gold Strap: Aubergine-colored alligator 30-piece limited series 96 30-piece limited series
Maestro MOVEMENT DMC16 Allegro MOVEMENT ALG89 Caliber mechanical self-winding Caliber mechanical hand-wound Dimensions: 36.25 x 10.50 mm (without hands) Dimensions: 34 x 8.20 mm (without hands) Number of components: 349 Number of components: 520 Number of jewels: 33 Number of jewels: 39 Barrels: Two series-mounted barrels Power reserve: 60 hours (approx.) Power reserve: 7 days, 168 hours (approx.) Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 3 Hz (21,600 vph) Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 3 Hz (21,600 vph) Balance-wheel with countersunk screws Functions - Hours, minutes and seconds Functions - Repeater chiming the hours, quarters and minutes - Hours and minutes on demand - Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the - Big date upper cone and units on the lower cone - GMT with Day/Night indicator - MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with a stone and a diamond serving to remind the wearer of a Distinctive features Charles X style stepped bridges commitment Repeater mechanism featuring silent inertia governor Distinctive features Charles X style stepped bridges Opening in lower dial revealing repeater Skeletonized barrel mechanism Case Case Dimensions: Ø 42 x 16.06 mm Dimensions: Ø 45 x 14.36 mm Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft Maestoso MOVEMENT DTC07 Soprano MOVEMENT TRD98 Caliber mechanical hand-wound Caliber mechanical hand-wound Dimensions: 31 x 8.60 mm (without hands) Dimensions: 37 x 10.50 mm (with hands) Number of components: 301 Number of components: 450 Number of jewels: 44 Number of jewels: 39 Barrels: Four parallel-mounted barrels Barrels: Single mainspring barrel Power reserve: 80 hours (approx.) Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.) Escapement: Detent type in grade 5 titanium Escapement: Tourbillon with Swiss lever-type, 3 Hz 2 Hz (14,400 vph) (21,600 vph) Balance-wheel with countersunk screws Cylindrical balance-spring Functions Anti-over-banking security device - Hours and minutes Escapement mounted - 4-note minute repeater playing Westminster Quarters on a shock-absorbing bridge Balance-stop system activated by pulling Distinctive features Four visible hammers, four patented the crown cathedral gongs Constant-force device at 4 o'clock Repeater mechanism featuring silent inertia governor Functions Tourbillon regulator with parachute shock - Hours and minutes absorber - Constant-force device at 4 o’clock Charles X style stepped bridges Distinctive features Charles X style stepped bridges Case Skeletonized barrel Dimensions: Ø 45 x 15.32 mm Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft Case Dimensions: Ø 44 x 13.59 mm Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft 97
Kantharos MOVEMENT MBA13 POKER MOVEMENT PCK05 Caliber mechanical self-winding Caliber mechanical self-winding Dimensions: 37.60 x 10.56 mm (with gong) Dimensions: 38.60 x 9.92 mm (with gong) Number of components: 570 Number of components: 655 Number of jewels: 77 Number of jewels: 72 Power reserve: 48 hours (approx.) Barrels: Twin barrels Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 3 Hz (21,600 vph) Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.) Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Functions - Hours and minutes Functions - Mono-pusher chronograph - Hours and minutes - Cathedral gong chiming each change of function - 2 games: Texas Hold’em Poker game and roulette wheel - Constant-force device at 6 o’clock - Patented cathedral gong Distinctive features Black rhodium-plated mainplate and Case bridges Dimensions: Ø 45 x 15.95 mm Sapphire bridge with gold chatons Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft Case Dimensions: Ø 45 x 15.83 mm Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft Aventicum / Mecca MOVEMENT AVE15 BACCARA MOVEMENT BCR09 Caliber mechanical self-winding Caliber mechanical self-winding Dimensions: 26.20 x 3.37 mm (without hands) Dimensions: 38.60 x 9.34 mm (with gong) Number of components: 186 Number of components: 538 Number of jewels: 28 Number of jewels: 40 Barrels: Twin barrels Barrels: Twin barrels Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.) Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.) Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Functions Functions - Hours and minutes - Hours and minutes - 3 games: Baccarat, roulette and dice Case - Patented cathedral gong Dimensions: Ø 44 x 18.49 mm Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft Case Dimensions: Ø 45 x 15.92 mm Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft 98
BLACKJACK MOVEMENT BLJ08 Margot / Layla MOVEMENT EMT17 Caliber mechanical self-winding Caliber mechanical self-winding Dimensions: 38.60 x 9.34 mm (with gong) Dimensions: 38.40 x 9.76 mm (without hands) Number of components: 501 Number of components: 731 Number of jewels: 40 Number of jewels: 95 Barrels: Twin barrels Barrels: Twin barrels Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.) Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.) Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Functions Functions - Hours and minutes - Hours and minutes - 3 games: Blackjack, roulette and dice - “He loves me... he loves me not” (“Effeuiller la marguerite” - Patented cathedral gong in French) - Symbolic ”color-feeling” on the winding rotor Case - Striking chime at each action of the 2 o’clock pusher Dimensions: Ø 45 x 15.92 mm Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft Case Dimensions: Ø 42.50 x 14.52 mm Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft X-TREM-1 MOVEMENT FLY11 Marguerite MOVEMENT MT115 / MT113 Caliber mechanical hand-wound Caliber mechanical self-winding Dimensions: 26.60 x 46.40 x 11.94 mm Dimensions: MT115: 35.70 x 9.67 mm (with hands) Number of components: 419 MT113: 30.10 x 9.05 mm (with hands) Number of jewels: 64 Number of components: 245 Barrels: Twin barrels: Number of jewels: 36 One for the movement gear train Barrels: Twin barrels One for the time indications Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.) Power reserve: 50 hours (approx.) Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Escapement: Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° with Swiss lever-type, 3 Hz (21,600 vph) Functions - Hours and minutes indicated by two butterflies Functions - Dual display dial: time or a personalized secret message - Hours and minutes: indication by spheres inside tubes, driven by - “He loves me... he loves me not” game on the winding rotor magnetic field - Seconds on the tourbillon cage Case - Fast-time adjustment at 12 o’clock Dimensions: MT115: Ø42.50 x 12.07 mm MT113: Ø36.90 x 11.53 mm Distinctive features Use of precisely-shaped magnetic Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft fields in a mechanical movement No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement Skeletonized barrel Case Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.82 x 15 mm Water resistance: 2 ATM / 20 m / 67 ft 99
For further information, please contact: Christophe Claret SA Route du Soleil d’Or 2 2400 Le Locle - Switzerland T. +41 32 933 00 00 info@christopheclaret.com www.instagram.com/ChristopheClaretOfficial www.facebook.com/ChristopheClaret www.twitter.com/Claret_Time www.youtube.com/user/ChristopheClaret www.pinterest.com/ChClaret (Images here are for illustration purposes only and may differ slightly from the actual timepieces.)
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