5 COOL 7 TIPS FOR TRAVELLING WITH A CHILD IN A WHEELCHAIR INSIDE FUJIAN'S FORTRESS HOMES - BOOKLETIA
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JUNE
2016
SEE ASIA AND BEYOND WITH SILKAIR
7 TIPS FOR
TRAVELLING
WITH A CHILD IN A
WHEELCHAIR
INSIDE FUJIAN’S
FORTRESS HOMES
5 COOL
EXPERIENCES
IN LOMBOK
SCENES OF SOUTHEAST ASIA
06.2016
22 COMING FULL CIRCLE 42 FLEETING MOMENTS
Life in a Fujian tulou Tableaus of Asian life
30 THE GREAT FRONTIER 50 一碗河粉的传奇
Best of the Top End 被誉为“河内之汤”的越南河
粉，以清、甜、香的独特风味
36 WAY OF THE SHAN 俘虏世界，渗透灵魂
Ancient skills of Myanmar’s SO PHO, SO GOOD
largest indigenous tribe Slurp up a hearty bowl of
Vietnam’s favourite noodles
GETTY IMAGES
20 FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA
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LATEST AWARDS
Travel Media of the Year
(Merit), Media Publishers
18
Association Singapore
(MPAS) Awards 2014
Best Feature on Asian
Travel (Excellence)
Best Wellness Feature
(Excellence),
Asian Publishing Awards
2014
Silkwinds is published exclusively for
SilkAir by Publicitas Publishing
E-mail: PP.Asia@publicitas.com
publicitas.com/publishingasia
16
REGIONAL MANAGING DIRECTOR
Lee Walsh
GENERAL MANAGER Betty Liswanty
RELATIONSHIP MANAGER Serene Lee
4 THE BIG PICTURE
EDITORIAL
Tug of war, Sabah EXECUTIVE CONTENT DIRECTOR
Rod Mackenzie
6 HOT PICKS MANAGING EDITOR Ming Rodrigues
Trends and items to covet DEPUTY EDITOR Nelissa Hernandez
DESIGN DIRECTOR Fredrik Dittlau
C0VER PHOTO: DREW HOPPER. THIS PAGE: IRA DE REUVER; GETTY IMAGES; SMITHSHOLIDAYROAD.COM
12 4 QUESTIONS WITH... ADVERTISING
Fazal Bahardeen, HalalTrip MEDIA SPECIALIST Mey Leong
Tel: +65 6735 8681 ext 331
14 WHAT’S ON E-mail: mey.leong@publicitas.com
Things to do this month MATERIALS Doreen Lau
E-mail: doreen.lau@publicitas.com
68
16 2 PERFECT DAYS IN LOMBOK
Catch Bau Nyale, visit a
secret Gili, and enjoy
waterfall walks
The views and opinions expressed or
18 FOOD SNAPSHOT WELCOME ABOARD implied in Silkwinds do not necessarily
reflect those of SilkAir or Publicitas
Dok fak thong tod 54 SILKAIR EXPERIENCE Publishing. No responsibility is accepted
56 NEWS FROM THE DECK for the claims made in advertisements,
20 TRAVEL TIPS 58 OFFICES articles, photographs or illustrations
Travelling with a wheelchair- 59 FLEET & FLIGHT TIMES contained in this publication. Unsolicited
material will not be returned. No part of this
bound child 60 ROUTE MAP magazine may be reproduced without the
61 POSTCARDS written permission of SilkAir and Publicitas
52 热门精选 68 SILKAIR STUDIO Publishing. All rights reserved. Copyright
牵起精致的行李箱，到尼泊尔野 Stream movies, TV shows © 2016 by SilkAir (Singapore) Private
Limited. All information correct at time
生动物园和马来西亚砂拉越探 and music onboard of printing. Printed in Singapore by
险吧！ KHL Printing Co Pte Ltd.
MCI (P) 046/11/2015
2 | SILKWINDS
Canon DSLRs, the Canon EOS 80D
comes with an optical viewfinder with
approximately 100 per cent coverage,
so you get to see the full picture as
you shoot. This means it’s easier than
ever to compose your picture-perfect
postcards! The intelligent viewfinder
also presents information such as AF
areas, aspect ratio line and flicker
detection to help you shoot with
confidence in real time.
3 DESIGNED TO PERFORM
The Canon EOS 80D features a new
24.2-megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor
and a powerful DIGIC 6 image processor,
which brings out the best performance
of the hardware. Add in an enhanced
sensor sensitivity of up to ISO 16,000
(expandable to 25,600, or 12,800
for movies), and you can consistently
and confidently produce professional
images anytime, anywhere, without
having to use a flash. It’s also WiFi/NFC
compatible, so it’s a breeze to share
your travel stories online, and backup
your images to the cloud for peace of
mind.
EOS 80D, EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, f/6.3, 1/200, ISO 250, 70mm
MOVIE MAKER
The Canon EOS 80D can capture 4
CAPTURE
depend on the Canon EOS 80D to hone Full HD 1080p movies up to 60 frames
your photography skills for many years per second, and includes mic and
to come. headphone jacks for greater audio
THE
control. The ability to switch focus
1 STAY FOCUSED
With more AF
quickly by
tapping on the
MOMENT
points, greater touchscreen
horizontal and is a real treat,
vertical coverage, made possible
plus the option to by the Dual
Now everyone can shoot select the AF mode Pixel CMOS
like a pro with the latest depending on the AF technology.
situation, you’ll have New creative
mid-range DSLR from a great chance of filters and time
Canon nailing that shot lapse options
of a hornbill in full increase
flight in Langkawi’s the creative
R
EOS 80D, EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS
eady to take your photography and Geopark. The Canon II USM, f/2.8, possibilities for
1/160, ISO 640, 70mm
videography to the next level? EOS 80D focuses videographers.
Not only is it fun and intuitive accurately in low light, thanks Try this: Find
to use, the Canon EOS 80D is packed to its advanced -3 EV AF capability. a busy point in a city, like Chongqing’s
with significant improvements over its Even if you’re shooting fire performers Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street. Place the
predecessor, the Canon EOS 70D. Think by the beach on a moonless night, your Canon EOS 80D on a tripod and shoot
faster and more accurate autofocus, subject will be in focus every time. a time lapse video of the city at dusk.
better focusing ability in low light and You’ll be surprised how easy it is to
full viewfinder coverage.
Here are four reasons why you can 2 WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET
For the first time in mid-range
capture the magic moments when the
lights and trails come on.
NON- FULL VECTOR
1 3
Stay connected ...
Stay connected ...
snapshot.canon-asia.com
2 Like us Follow us
on Facebook on Instagram @ NUHig
Stay connected ...
fb.com/nationaluniversityhospital instagram.com/nuhig
4
SIDETRACK
THE BIG PICTURE
4 | SILKWINDS
Traditionally a nomadic
group, the Bajau people now
live in houses perched on
stilts on the Celebes Sea in
Sabah, Malaysia. It is said
that children from this sea-
dwelling community learn
how to swim before they can
walk. As the water dictates
their day-to-day activities,
kids here have to wait for low
tide to play on the coast.
Jino Lee
SILKAIR.COM | 5
SIDETRACK / HOT PICKS
also be making frequent guest
appearances at its deck.
That said, what’s a visit to
Phuket without catching some
rays? The award-winning Dream
Phuket Hotel & Spa offers sun
worshippers a range of options,
from its pool suites to Vu, a
rooftop bar with a lavish lap
pool, and direct access to Layan
W
hen a resort is part of Beach via the beach club.
the world-famous Dream Fancy a complimentary stay
brand from New York, at the resort? All you need to do
you know it isn’t going to be just rival. For starters, it is one of the is order the club’s Dream Beach
another garden-variety stay. select few in Asia to be kitted out wagyu burger, which comes
Located on Layan Beach, Dream with a Void Acoustics speaker with a gold leaf-encrusted
Beach is the jewel of Dream system – the brand of choice for bun, black truffle cream, foie
Phuket Hotel & Spa – a sprawling top clubs around the world such gras and a whole lot of other
2,000sqft multi-level beach club as Eden Ibiza, DC-10 and Ocean fixings. Its THB30,000 (about
that marries Miami cool with Beach. Thanks to tie-ups with USD846) price tag entitles you
New York flash, while offering international music names such to a night’s stay for two in a Sky
partygoers a clubbing experience as Hed Kandi and the Ministry of Suite as well as a bottle of Dom
few other clubs in the region can Sound, the world’s hottest DJs will Pérignon. dreambeachclub.com
6 | SILKWINDS
MY DREAM JOB
“What do you want to be
when you grow up?” At
KidZania Singapore – the
23rd and newest city that’s
part of the award-winning
KidZania global family
travel accessories industry. Now edutainment brand – kids
celebrating its 70th anniversary, aged 4 to 14 get to put their
it has an exclusive offer for all
SilkAir customers: a 30 per cent aspirations to the test by
discount on all regular priced items role-playing real-world
and/or a 10 per cent discount
on all promotional items from
occupations such as being
now till 31 December 2016. a crime scene investigator,
To enjoy this promotion, just
present your boarding pass or
documentary producer, and
flight confirmation letter during even a pilot. They also earn
From the world’s first hard-case purchase. You’ll also receive a free a “salary”, which they can
suitcase to the first one made of gift when you spend a minimum of
natural fibre composite, French SGD250. This promotion is valid then spend on goods and
luggage maker DELSEY has been only at the DELSEY Paris Flagship skills training, or save in a
the brand behind some of the Store at Suntec City Mall #02-
most enduring innovations in the 403/404. delsey.com
personal savings account.
kidzania.com.sg
Cheerful and chic, the Luna Play is HEY
GOOD-
a gadget for jetsetters looking to
maintain their skincare routine on the
LOOKING!
road. This pocket-sized rechargeable
silicone device is designed to
exfoliate and cleanse your skin
more effectively than just using your
hands, and is also more hygienic than the
average face brush. Its reverse side also
helps keep wrinkles at bay, thanks to
low-frequency pulsations. Bonus:
It comes already charged and can
be used up to 100 times before
requiring a power-up. foreo.com
SILKAIR.COM | 7
SIDETRACK / HOT PICKS
What do you think of when Bengal tiger, as well as more
someone mentions holidays in than 500 native bird species.
Nepal? The Himalayas? Mountain Luxury amenities are a given at
climbing? You can now add this Taj Safari property, which
wildlife safari to that list. boasts panoramic views of the
The first luxury lodge of its Himalayas and Terai grasslands.
kind outside India, Meghauli Guests have the option of
Serai is located on the banks choosing their own adventure,
of the Rapti River in the from cruising the jungle in
UNESCO World Heritage Site an open 4x4 safari vehicle to
of Chitwan National Park, home getting up close with gharials
to the endangered one-horned on a canoeing excursion.
rhinoceros, elephants and the taj.tajhotels.com
While there’s no shortage of online
travel aggregators, platforms that TRAVEL
serve Muslim travellers are few and
far between, despite the growing MADE
EASIER
market for this demographic. Where
do you go to compare information on
halal restaurants or prayer facilities?
Enter Malaysian online agency Tripfez,
which aims to make life for the Muslim
traveller easier by letting them compare and
book hotels and tour packages specific to their needs.
At present, there are more than 200,000 properties
on its website, a tenth of which have been rated under
the Salam Standard, Tripfez’s own rating system for
Muslim-friendly amenities and services. tripfez.com
8 | SILKWINDSSIDETRACK / HOT PICKS
Local and visiting baking a wide selection of hands-on
enthusiasts looking to up your classes, from sourdough
game, rejoice: Kiwi master bread baking to Singaporean
baker Dean Brettschneider has cuisine, taught by himself
added a baking and cooking and guest chefs like
school to his growing Baker InterContinental Hotel’s
& Cook empire in Singapore. Executive Chef Eric Neo. The
Called Brettschneider’s venue is also available for
Baking & Cooking School, it events such as team-building
is located in the residential activities and children’s parties.
suburb of Bukit Timah and offers bakingandcookingschool.com
Isn’t it annoying to with its line of
SAVE
get home from a sand-repellent
trip to the beach beach blankets
to find that and bags, which
there’s still
sand on your
belongings?
OUR come with
strategically
placed
As unpleasant
as it is for
you, it is also
BEACHES pockets and
compartments
to protect your
detrimental to personal items
the environment. from becoming
For starters, less sand sandy. These are
TEXT: LISA-ANN LEE
means that there’s less beach available online, at retailers in
for everyone to enjoy. Filipino Cebu and Davao, and resorts such
startup Lagu is doing its part to as Shangri-La’s Boracay Resort
stop this unintentional depletion & Spa. lifeonthesands.com
10 | SILKWINDSAUSTRALIA’S
NORTHERN TERRITORY
ONLY 4 1/2 HOURS FLIGHT
FROM SINGAPORE ON SILKAIR
Uluru Alice
Springs
*Map not to scale.
Drive times are approximate.
The Northern Territory is a place unlike any other and offers some
incredible self-drive experiences. You can easily reach Litchfield,
Kakadu and Katherine in just a few hours from Darwin. In the Top End
you’ll experience a beautiful tropical climate, landscapes dotted with
rainforest, gorges, waterfalls and waterholes, water-based adventure,
Aboriginal culture and a relaxed outdoor lifestyle.
Start planning at australiasoutback.com
Katherine Gorge, Nitmiluk National Park Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, Darwin City
Yellow Water Billabong, Kakadu Wangi Falls, Litchfield National ParkSIDETRACK / 4 QUESTIONS WITH...
technology to allow consumers
to book flights, hotels and
holiday packages. Our app lets
users calculate prayer times and
directions instantly while they are
flying. It also has travel resources
like city and airport guides
(for cities such as Chiang Mai;
pictured left), and travel etiquette
for Muslims. We’ve also added a
social feature for users to share
pictures of halal food outlets they
visited on their trips.
How have Muslim travellers
evolved?
Like all travellers, they have
become more sophisticated.
Besides halal food and prayer
facilities, they are interested in
the culture, history and heritage
of the destinations they visit,
and they are keen on authentic
experiences. For example, they
not only want halal food but halal
local cuisine.
How important is the Muslim
travel market?
According to the MasterCard-
CrescentRating Global Muslim
Travel Index (GMTI) 2016, there
are 117 million Muslim visitor
M
ention “Muslim travel” arrivals, or 10 per cent of the
Fazal Bahardeen, CEO of and religious pilgrimages entire travel economy, last year.
usually come to mind. This number is expected to grow
HalalTrip, offers insights But a growing number of Muslim to 168 million travellers by 2020
into the rapidly growing holidaymakers travelling the with a projected spend of over
Muslim travel industry globe these days are changing USD200 billion.
that perception. And HalalTrip,
WORDS SAKINAH MANAFF-GREEN helmed by Fazal Bahardeen, What are the top destinations
is happy to help them along. for Muslim travellers?
Launched in 2013, the company The GMTI 2016 scored 130
bills itself as one of the world’s destinations, including OIC
leading online travel specialists (Organisation of Islamic
catering to the needs of Muslim Cooperation) and non-OIC
travellers. Through its web portal countries. Within OIC countries,
and mobile app, HalalTrip makes Malaysia topped the list for
GETTY IMAGES; HALALTRIP.COM
trip planning more convenient, fun the second consecutive year,
and intuitive for those looking for followed by the United Arab
a halal-friendly experience. Emirates, Turkey, Indonesia and
Qatar. Outside the OIC countries,
What are some of HalalTrip’s Singapore scored the highest
unique features? rating, followed by Thailand, the
We use the latest online UK, South Africa and Hong Kong.
12 | SILKWINDSImproving your flying experience, right down to the first click. Now that's a joy to fly A new and improved website experience: Easier navigation Optimised viewing on devices Quicker booking experience 30kg Bag SilkAir Inflight Through Allowance Studio Meal Check-in
SIDETRACK / WHAT’S ON
SINGAPORE
16-19 JUNE
BEERFEST ASIA
Oktoberfest might be a few
months away but there’s no
reason you can’t get your
beer party on now. Returning
to the Marina Promenade,
this year’s event offers
more than 500 beers, and an
eclectic range of whiskies
and spirits; a top-class
entertainment lineup; and
lip-smacking gourmet bites.
beerfestasia.com
DARWIN
17-19 JUNE
DARWIN TRIPLE CROWN
Will someone finally make
history by winning all three
races to claim the Triple
Crown? It’s anybody’s guess
but whatever the outcome,
you can be sure this is going
to be a high-octane weekend.
Besides the fast and furious
CHENGDU V8 supercars, also watch out
17-18 JUNE for Hot Wheels Stuntz Inc’s
jump truck demonstration.
UNDER SIEGE: THE FULL STORY OF FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE v8sdarwin.com.au
Meshing classical Chinese music with Beijing opera and Chinese kung fu, Under Siege:
The Full Story of Farewell My Concubine is acclaimed dancer Yang Liping’s first show as a
director. Inspired in part by the historical battle between the Chu and Han kingdoms, this
visually stimulating dance opera also explores the themes of desire and fear in modern
society. gochengdu.cn
KUCHING PENANG DENPASAR
1 JUNE 1 JUNE-31 JULY 11 JUNE-9 JULY
GAWAI DAYAK PENANG DURIAN FESTIVAL BALI ARTS FESTIVAL
TEXT: LISA-ANN LEE. PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK; AP IMAGES; JACINTA LITTLER
CAIRNS
More than just a rice harvest Ever wondered why durian Leave your mai tai behind 25 JUNE-1 JULY
festival, Gawai Dayak is connoisseurs hold the fruit in and head to the Taman
also a celebration of the such high regard? The answer Werdhi Budaya Arts Centre CAIRNS TO KARUMBA
indigenous people who can be found at the orchards in Denpasar for a crash BIKE RIDE
call Sarawak home. Visit of Balik Pulau. Forget the course in traditional Balinese The fact that this “Bucket
longhouses that are open so-called ‘designer’ varieties dance, music and crafts. List Ride of a Lifetime” has
to the public that day, and such as D24 and mao shan You’ll find more than 300 been around for 14 years
learn about the Dayak wang and opt for performances and activities means it’s doing something
culture. If you’re local cultivars running the gamut from right. Participants can either
lucky, you can even like the ang heh dance and shadow puppetry tackle a 780km road trail
sample treats (“red prawn” to culinary samplings. Not- or take on the tracks, rivers
such as tuak in Hokkien) to-be missed highlights and creeks of the Outback.
(traditional rice and chee include gamelan gong Besides having glutes of
liquor) and ayam (black thorn) kebyar jam sessions at the steel after this adventure,
pansuh (chicken for their amphitheatre and traditional you’ll be helping to raise
cooked in bamboo). unique flavours. ballet known as sendratari. funds for underprivileged
sarawaktourism.com visitpenang.gov.my bali-indonesia.com bush kids. ridefnq.com
14 | SILKWINDSPreferred Seat Selection Get the space you need to enjoy every flight with SilkAir’s Preferred Seat Selection. Now available for booking on Singapore Airlines connecting flights. 30kg Bag SilkAir Inflight Through Allowance Studio Meal Check-in
SIDETRACK / 2 PERFECT DAYS
Expect horse-racing, live bands,
shadow-puppet plays, traditional
drama, boat races and a massive
costume parade, all culminating in
a mad rush into the sea at dawn.
The inspiration for all this? The
arrival of the sea worms that live
in corals and float to the surface
to breed just once a year. In local
Sasak culture, these creatures
are actually the reincarnation of a
sacred princess.
SECRET GILIS
The northern Gilis – Trawangan,
Air and Meno – get all the press.
Yet the southern Gilis have a less-
developed charm that’s all their
own, and Gili Gede Indah makes
a splendid place to appreciate
traditional island life. Get a boat
A
cross the strait from Bali, from the hamlet of Tembowong,
and dominated by the then explore the island’s tiny
sacred Mount Rinjani, less- villages, linked by a network
populated Lombok is an island of winding paths. Boatmen can
of contrasts. The Gilis off the arrange snorkelling trips to
northwest coast offer sybaritic stunning Gili Layar nearby.
From sweeping beaches to luxury, while surfers flock to the
beaches in the south. Yet on the LUNCH ON THE BEACH
lush islands and stunning slopes of Rinjani and in central Lombok’s south coast is a series
waterfalls, the natural Lombok, life continues like it has of beautiful bays and beaches,
beauty of Bali’s neighbour for centuries: horse carts still which includes the white half-
ferry shoppers to the market, moon Selong Belanak beach.
makes it a must-visit while farmers tend their fields. The Laut Biru restaurant, right
on the beach, is cool, shady and
WORDS THEODORA SUTCLIFFE SEA WORM SPECTACLE eminently stylish. Seafood is
Each February, traditional elders good here, while the Balinese
and wise men meet to set the sparkling wine is well-priced and
date for the Bau Nyale festival, a thoroughly quaffable.
three-day extravaganza in Kuta.
TAKE A COOKING COURSE
Right by the harbour on Gili
Air, Gili Cooking Classes offer
the Super Six, which covers
Indonesian classics from the
GETTY IMAGES; THEODORA SUTCLIFFE
toothsome dessert kelepon – a
pandan-flavoured ball filled with
palm syrup and coated in coconut
– to Lombok’s signature dish, the
spicy ayam taliwang (grilled
chicken coated with chilli sauce).
SilkAir flies four times weekly
between Singapore and Lombok
16 | SILKWINDSWATERFALL WALKS
The refreshingly cold waters
that pour down from the
summit of Rinjani make for
spectacular falls. Two of
the best, an easy walk from
Senaru, are Sindang Gila
and Tiu Kelep. Sindang Gila
takes just 15 minutes to
reach on foot via a well-
made path; towering, jungle-
clad Tiu Kelep is a longer and
much more beautiful walk.
Locals claim both waterfalls
have rejuvenating powers.
SILKAIR.COM | 17SIDETRACK / FOOD SNAPSHOT
its flesh, the plant’s appealing tempura. They are deep-fried
bright yellow flowers also make until golden brown and served
for a delicious, savoury dish. with a dip of soy sauce, vinegar
Called dok fak thong, pumpkin and sliced scallion.
flowers are seasonally available
in wet markets across Thailand. Try it at: Pun Pun Restaurant,
Farmers typically harvest the Wat Suan Dok, Chiang Mai,
plant before dawn when they fully Thailand
unfurl. Only male blooms, which
do not have pistils and grow on
long stalks, are harvested as the
female blooms are left to grow
In Thailand, pumpkin flowers into vegetables.
VIETNAM’S VERSION
Bong di don thit, Vietnam’s
are not just decorative Thai home cooks usually answer to dok fak thong tod, is
elements on a plate make dok fak thong tod, or fried also made with prawn and garlic;
pumpkin flowers with minced the only difference is the addition
WORDS & PHOTO IRA DE REUVER prawns. To prepare this dish, the of dill – a testament to the
flowers are carefully washed French culinary influence in the
and dried, and their stems and country. In Danang, Waterfront
P
umpkin figures prominently stamen are removed. The flowers Bar & Restaurant (150 Bach Dang
in a variety of dishes in Thai are then filled with a mixture of Street) serves this as one of
cuisine. Nuggets of this finely minced prawn and chopped its appetisers.
Vitamin A-rich vegetable are garlic, seasoned with some fish In other parts of the country,
typically found in yellow or red sauce and palm sugar. The petals the edible golden flowers are
curry, or simmered in coconut are then folded at the tip and found in hot pot as an ingredient
milk and eaten as dessert. Beyond coated in batter, similar to making cooked along with fish balls,
shrimp, beef and greens, or
quickly dipped into the broth
and eaten immediately.
18 | SILKWINDSSIDETRACK / TRAVEL TIPS
A trip with a physically l Identify hotels with dedicated arrive. Think about having space
wheelchair-friendly rooms. You around the bed, in the bathroom
disabled child comes with can easily find out online or and also accessibility via the
challenges, but with proper shortlist three or four you like, elevator or from the ground floor.
planning and by anticipating call ahead to inform them of your Hotels close to where you want to
needs and ask what they can do sightsee are always worthwhile,
your child’s needs, you can to assist. Hotels that are as this will prevent additional
enjoy a hassle-free vacation responsive and eager to please transport issues.
are a good bet – if they are
WORDS AIMEE CHAN reluctant to help you over the l Hire a taxi or a private driver
phone, they aren’t going to be with an appropriate vehicle
very helpful when you actually specially allocated to you for your
20 | SILKWINDSl Be realistic about what kind
of experiences you are going
to have. For instance, while
you might be able to explore
some of the larger and more
famous temples in Siem Reap
or Yogyakarta, lack of disability
access might mean you will not
see the smaller and more remote
ones. If you want to go off the
beaten track, be prepared to
carry your child and leave his
wheelchair somewhere safe.
l Consider hiring a travel
companion, caregiver or even just
a local nanny for the duration of l Do your research on travel
your stay. In developing countries, insurance. Know if your insurance
you will often find that footpaths provider covers people with
are broken, uneven or non- disabilities. Also invest in
existent, and having someone to travel insurance for your child’s
watch for hazards or an extra pair wheelchair in case of damage.
of hands to carry bags will be a
huge asset. l Be prepared to be the centre
of attention. Disabilities are not
l Have someone push or walk always openly acknowledged in
stay. It’s the easiest way to get behind your child when you’re some Asian societies, so your
around in a foreign country. That out in the streets. Even if your child’s wheelchair will attract a
way your driver will get to know child can mobilise himself in lot of interest wherever you go. If
your needs and can keep relevant his wheelchair, having someone you have older kids, talk to them
items in the car for you (such as next to him helps make him more about this and practise some
car seats for kids or even food visible to vehicular traffic. You ways they can respond when
SMITHSHOLIDAYROAD.COM
and change of clothes). Call the could also consider bringing along strangers express curiosity
hotel to ask for their assistance in a flag on a long thin pole that and interest.
organising this before you leave you can attach to the back of the
home so you can start using wheelchair to also draw attention Aimee Chan is the founder of
their services immediately at and help create a safe zone suitcasesandstrollers.com,
the airport. around you and your child. a family travel website
SILKAIR.COM | 21CULTURE / FUJIAN COMING FULL CIRCLE 22 | SILKWINDS
Fleeing their enemies centuries ago, the peaceful Hakka
people built homes that were an oddity in China’s Fujian
province. Yet over centuries, their unusual settlement not
only sustained a culture, but protected generations
WORDS SALLY HAMMOND
SILKAIR.COM | 23CULTURE / FUJIAN
“Four plates and a soup pot!” says our
guide, laughing. He’s expecting our
surprise, and is not disappointed. mouth of the Nine Dragon River.
In the hot late-morning sunshine, These days the Hakka people of
Fujian province expect visitors,
miles from anywhere, I rub my eyes as especially since 2008 when the
we look down from the ridge where area, with its 3,000 Fujian tulou,
was listed as a UNESCO World
the coach has parked. Deep in the Heritage Site.
valley below, surely, these are the FORM AND FUNCTION
strangest houses I have ever seen. The tulou were constructed
between the 13th and 20th
centuries. Due to wars and
There are five in the cluster China, the worst was feared. drought, and to flee the Jin
– square and circular with black- Their sinister appearance caused attackers, people from central
tiled overhanging roofs, and already jumpy US intelligence China trekked further south,
blank ochre-yellow walls several officers to switch to high alert. looking for the ideal spot to
storeys high. Perhaps (if I squint A group nuclear missile base re-establish their communities.
really hard) they do resemble my was their first thought; however, After many decades, some
guide’s metaphor of a giant table fortunately, before any pre- settled in these fertile valleys
setting. emptive action was taken, spies at an altitude of 800m. The cool
But these buildings don’t were enlisted to take donkeys and climate here is ideal for growing
look like homes either. Little trek in to check out the situation. the foods they had known and
wonder they almost sparked This was extremely lucky. The loved: cabbages and persimmons,
an international incident. peaceful villagers who met tea and turnips. Opening spread:
their unexpected visitors with The original houses were built Looking like an
alien entity from
MISTAKEN IDENTITY surprised smiles and offers of using the only available materials above, the tulou
Towards the end of the Cold War, tea and dried persimmons were – the local red mud reinforced nearly caused
over 30 years ago, our guide totally oblivious to what a close with strips of bamboo, sand an international
explains, China remained much call they’d had. and stone, and bound together, incident when
US intelligence
of a mystery to the West. When Our group gets a similar improbably, with egg white, stumbled on it
pictures transmitted by a US reception, although we have taken glutinous rice and brown sugar.
surveillance satellite during the just four hours on a comfortable This unorthodox mix is said to Facing page,
Reagan administration showed air-conditioned coach along the coagulate better than concrete, from top: A
GETTY IMAGES
curving corridor
dozens of weird doughnut-shaped smooth new highway to reach it, and they built the rammed earth of homes; a
buildings sprinkled throughout travelling west to Yongding from walls “as thick as a banquet table” woman strings
these remote valleys of southeast Xiamen, an island-city at the our guide adds, proudly. vegetables to dry
24 | SILKWINDSSILKAIR.COM | 25
CULTURE/ FUJIAN
COMMUNAL HEART
To enter a tulou is to step back
many centuries. Built four or five
storeys high, they resemble squat
mushrooms with thick stems.
Inside, timber balconies were
added to overlook the courtyard
and activities below, and the ring- Yellow ducklings scratch on the
shape allows light and air to enter clay floor of the courtyard; a
from above. woman sits silently sorting tea
These clan houses are villages leaves, while toddlers stagger
in themselves, accommodating forward shyly, as curious about us
; GORDON HAMMOND
up to 700 people. Centuries on, as we are of their unique lifestyle.
safety is still paramount, and At the centre of the courtyard
we enter one through its heavy stands a shrine or temple where
single door, the community’s ancestors are still worshipped
first defence which is securely and which now doubles as a
locked at night. For the same community hall and school.
reason the ground floor has no There is a well for water, and the
external windows. first floor houses a granary and
Inside, we are instantly staples to withstand a long siege
absorbed by the life of the tulou. if necessary.
26 | SILKWINDSThe tulou of
Yuchanglou is
sometimes known
as the zigzag tulou.
Constructed in 1308,
the builders cut the
upright timbers to
the incorrect length.
The roll-on effect is
visible in this photo
SILKAIR.COM | 27CULTURE / FUJIAN
Bottom, from left: Ducklings
wander around Tianluokeng tulou;
aman tends to his grandchild
Facing page, from top: Daily
life and chores have their
place outdoors in Hekeng
village; Tianluokeng village is
cradled by verdant valleys
Daily life in a tulou has not green tea into my hands, and
changed for centuries. Everyone another lifts a bottle of strong
has a task: cooks, tea-pickers rice wine spirit filled with the
and sorters, and those who dry most enormous bumblebees I
produce from the communal lands have ever seen. “Drink it,“ our guide
on the concrete slabs outside in coaxes, “good for the knees!”
the hot sunshine. Mothers tend
to little ones dressed in sensible TEXTURED FEAST
Chinese baby-wear: no nappies, Hakka food is distinctive in its
just pants with an open back. emphasis on texture – braised,
Some tulou have individual roast and stewed meats take
staircases to each ‘home’ but centrestage, along with
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW in the Tianluokeng complex we preserved meats.
There are dozens of tulou visit, not far from the waterside We taste the same flavours
houses, the more elaborate village of Taxia, there are only two in a small room near the tulou.
dating from the 17th and 18th staircases – one on each Plates of eggplant and red hot
centuries. There are some side of the courtyard – which lead chillies, rich pork belly bathed
homestays and a few local to the sheltered gallery outside in turnip broth, sweet potato
restaurants, but the area is the families’ front doors. The top chips dusted with sugar, and cold
not highly developed, so be floor is for the older folks, and poached duck have been prepared
prepared to live and eat simply I don’t envy them climbing those for us, and the generous menu
while visiting. flights of steep and shaky continues until we can eat no
Best time to go: The Lunar New wooden stairs. more. Outside, the ingredients,
Year, which falls in January Someone beckons us up to the season’s harvest – chillies,
or February, is important in take a look and we pass the corn, mushrooms and persimmons
Chinese culture, and especially second floor used for storage, – are drying on concrete slabs,
in the tulou. Also, the warmer and on to the third for family with whole heads of cabbage
season from April to October. accommodation. Back downstairs, hanging on a fence.
someone else pushes a cup of Someone speaks swiftly to our
guide. He translates for us. “See
that old lady there?” He means
the very old woman crouched on
a stool watching us, smiling, her
lined face telling the story of a
long life and much work. “She is
90!” Smiling, we shake her hand,
and she wordlessly holds mine
fast for a moment.
I’ll admit it, we came out of
curiosity to see strange houses.
GETTY IMAGES; GORDON HAMMOND
What we discovered instead is
that rather than being weapons
of mass destruction, these homes
proffer, more accurately, lessons
in peaceful commune.
SilkAir flies daily between
Singapore and Xiamen
28 | SILKWINDSSILKAIR.COM | 29
ESCAPE / NORTHERN TERRITORY
THE
GREAT
FRONTIER
DANCING TO ITS OWN UNIQUE SUN-BAKED
TERRITORIAN BEAT, DARWIN AND THE
NORTHERN TERRITORY ARE LIKE NO
OTHER PART OF AUSTRALIA WORDS FIONA HARPER
F
or starters, the attractions highlighted in the Barunga is the home of one of The Top End
Territory is home films such as Gunlom Falls and the Australia’s most significant is a mecca
of wildlife,
to Australia’s outback’s beautiful billabongs. community festivals. Held on incredible
largest national kakadutourism.com 10-12 June east of Katherine, landscapes
park (Kakadu), it offers a rare chance to visit and unique
while the Finke River is said GO INDIGENOUS a remote community and Indigenous
rituals
to be the world’s oldest river, Limited to just 250 visitors each experience culture, dance,
dating back a mere 340 million year, the four-day art, culture art, sport and community.
years. Indigenous Territorians and historical Arnhem Land and barungafestival.com.au
themselves have lived off the land Cobourg Peninsula adventure
for 40-odd thousand years. More based at far-flung Cobourg WETLANDS SAFARI
recently, Darwin is the hometown Coastal Camp is a must-book. The Zip on an airboat through the
of popular Australian R&B singer- tour covers ancient rock art little- Mary River. It may be Australia’s
songwriter Jessica Mauboy. seen by non-indigenous eyes. densest saltwater crocodile
Take the time to get into the venturenorth.com.au habitat, but besides crocs
heart of the Territory and allow everywhere, you’ll also spot
its wide-open spaces, starry night CRUISE UNDER THE STARS buffalo and wondrous birdlife
skies and down-to-earth people Join The Algohgarrng Experience in this stunning, lush wetlands.
work their magic. Here’s our pick tour and cruise the Yellow Water tourismtopend.com.au
of some of the region’s top eats, Billabong with an indigenous
GETTY IMAGES; TOURISM NT; BARUNGAFESTIVAL.COM
adventures and secret finds. guide who shares Dreamtime UNIQUE ISLANDERS
interpretations of the Milky Way. About 80km north of Darwin,
8 TOP ADVENTURES The 90-minute cruise explores the Tiwi Islands are renowned for
Kakadu’s unique landscape being culturally and linguistically
CROC HUNT within the solar system and distinct from Arnhem Land
Celebrate the 30th anniversary its connection to Aboriginal Aborigines. Most islanders have
of the classic Crocodile Dundee spiritual and cultural beliefs. a passion for football, fishing or
films by following Mick ‘Crocodile’ kakadutourism.com fabrics, if not all three. Some like
Dundee’s famous footsteps. Tiwi Designs and the Rioli football
Kakadu Tourism offers the Spirit ABORIGINAL CELEBRATION family are household names. Join
of Kakadu Adventure Tour, which The inspiration behind Yothu a multi-day tour from Darwin to
includes visiting various natural Yindi’s global hit song “Treaty”, see where famous footballers
30 | SILKWINDSSILKAIR.COM | 31
ESCAPE / NORTHERN TERRITORY
Clockwise from top:
Cool off in a watering hole,
learn about Aboriginal culture
through ancient wall art, see
nesting turtles and enjoy
the raw, rugged outback
learnt their barefoot skills or SECRET WOMEN’S BUSINESS
pick up hand-dyed fabrics With a history dating back
favoured by Whoopie Goldberg thousands of years, the dilly bag – a
and Olivia Newton-John. traditional Australian Aboriginal
sealinknt.com.au/tiwi-islands bag – is a powerful and important
symbol to the women of Arnhem
BIG GAME FISHING Land. Learn about the cultural
Cast a line in the Cobourg significance of dilly bags, kinship,
Peninsula’s Garig Gunak Barlu and Yolngu philosophy with Yolngu
National Park for some of the women in the country – sorry fellas,
best sports fishing in Australia; it’s for females only. lirrwitourism.
think barramundi, mangrove jack com.au/womens-tours
and Spanish mackerel. Take a
break from fishing for a history BANUBANU RETREAT
lesson on European settlers A secluded island off the Gove
at Port Essington’s Victoria coast in east Arnhem Land,
Settlement or at historic Banubanu is powered by the sun
Cape Don lighthouse. and wind. It’s about as remote as
venturenorth.com.au you can get – exactly the attraction
for jaded city folk needing to
TREK THE OUTBACK recharge their souls and connect
Hike through Kakadu across an with nature. Expect long expanses
ancient landscape with 40,000 of beach, while sports fishermen
years of Aboriginal history. can target marlin, sailfish and
Cool off in waterholes, dine Spanish mackerel. banubanu.com
under the stars beside a camp
fire before falling asleep to the TURTLE NESTING
sounds of the bush in semi- Six out of seven marine turtle
permanent wilderness camps. species inhabit Northern Territory
worldexpeditions.com waters. Witness the wonder of
nesting females coming ashore to
8 SECRET FINDS lay their eggs at Dundee Beach,
120km southwest of Darwin.
EXPLORE A GHOST TOWN travelnt.com
The ruins of 24 houses and a
hospital are testimony to the ARNHEM LAND SAFARIS
ambitions of a colonial British Davidsons Arnhem Land Safaris
government, which established brings curious travellers into the
Victoria Settlement in remote, last corner of ancient Australia.
hostile northern Australia during Stay in cabins right in the middle
the 1830s. Approximately of pristine bush setting, go
570km northeast of Darwin, the birdwatching in the wetlands,
settlement is accessed by 4WD see rock art sites, and take a
only during the dry season (May - sunset trip to the floodplains.
October). travelnt.com arnhemland-safaris.com
32 | SILKWINDSGOOD BUYS
For some unique NT finds, head
to Darwin’s first cinema – now
converted into Star Village arcade
in Smith Street Mall – where you’ll
find quirky boutiques like Vintage
Twist and Embella Jewellery,
and Pure Indulgence for
homemade chocolate.
COOL DOWN, GET WET
In a parched landscape dominated
by red dirt and choking dust,
nothing’s more refreshing than a
dip in the crystal clear waters of
Katherine thermal hot springs
fed by the Katherine River
on the edge of town.
visitkatherine.com.au
Further afield, like many of
the Territory’s secret watering
holes, you’ll need a 4WD to access
Tjaynera Falls. The upside is
you’ll probably have this little
plunge pool all to yourself.
parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au
TAKE HOME A TERRITORY
ONE-OFF
Raw Cloth is a little gem hidden
away in Darwin’s northern suburb
of Nightcliff. Passionate textile
collectors and mother and
daughter duo, Rhonda Dunne
and Jo Dunne-Politis along with
GETTY IMAGES; TOURISM NT; MIKAEL GEBICKI
partner Kerrie Horgan, source
100 per cent cotton or raw silk
from Finland, the Tiwis and across
the Territory, even old kimonos
and Indonesian batiks. These
fabrics are crafted into bright and
beautiful clothing that scream
“one of a kind” for men, women
and children. Shop 3, 60 Aralia
Street; +61 8 8985 2305
SILKAIR.COM | 3334 | SILKWINDS
ESCAPE / NORTHERN TERRITORY
Facing page, clockwise
from top left: Soak in the
Mediterranean vibe
and drinks at Moorish
Cafe; Char’s inviting
heritage home setting;
grills at Ducks Nuts. Right:
Yots Greek Taverna’s
succulent octopus
8 GREAT EATS
PEE WEE’S AT THE POINT
Having picked up gongs at the
2015 Gold Plate Awards and the
Australian Good Food & Travel
Guide 2016 Readers Choice
awards, Pee Wee’s is a winning
combination of waterfront
location and a cutting-edge menu.
Try an entree of coconut-crusted
crocodile tail cheekily described
as “wild caught, wrestled by
chef on the beach in front of Pee
Wee’s”. peewees.com.au
DINAH BEACH CRUISING
YACHT ASSOCIATION (DBCYA)
The DBCYA clubhouse debunks
any notion of yachting being an
exclusive pastime of the rich. buffalo, possum and wallaby YOTS GREEK TAVERNA
Friendly and modest, the food is satay along with similarly Darwin’s warm climate goes well
as honest and authentic as the themed sausages. with Mediterranean-style cuisine,
yachties that prop up the bar each even more so when it comes with
night. Try grilled barramundi for CHAR RESTAURANT a dockside location overlooking
a bargain price at AUD18. Housed in heritage-listed bobbing yachts. Be tempted
dbcya.com.au Admiralty House on the Darwin by traditional house-made
Esplanade, Char offers great lamb yiros served with warm
DUCKS NUTS steaks and wicked desserts pita bread, salad and tzatziki
This place is a hit with locals who like chocolate indulgence with accompanied by a robust Barossa
DUCKS NUTS; MOORISH CAFE; YOTS GREEK TAVERNA; CHAR RESTAURANT
pre-order their morning coffee orange reduction, caramel sauce Valley shiraz. yots.com.au
via the Ducks Nuts smartphone and blood orange sorbet. Add a
app. If you’re in town on a chocolate martini for a complete HUMPTY DOO HOTEL
Tuesday, you’re in luck. It’s AUD15 chocolate fix. chardarwin.com.au Humpty Doo Hotel is worth a visit
Schnitzel Night with nine toppings purely for bragging rights and
influenced by flavours around the MOORISH CAFE the obligatory souvenir t-shirt. If
world. They’ll even throw in a free A tried-and-true winner for 14 you’re looking for good pub grub
beer or wine. ducksnuts.com.au years and Darwin’s first tapas (think steak and chips or hearty
restaurant, Moorish channels steak burgers with lashings of
ROAD KILL CAFE Mediterranean influence with caramelised onions) washed The tulou
down of
Yuchanglou is
“You kill it, we grill it” is the motto Spanish and north African with a cold beer in sometimes
a pub full ofknown
of this cafe at Darwin’s Mindil flavours. Grab a friend and raw Aussie characters,
as the you’ll
zigzagfind
tulou.
Beach Sunset Markets. Sounding share spiced lamb strips with it here along theConstructed
Arnhem Highway
in 1308,
more gruesome than it actually chimichurri, duck shanks with the builders cut the
an hour south of Darwin.
upright timbers to
is, this place is strictly for meat saffron caramelised onions or the incorrect length.
lovers though. Try the crocodile NT jewfish in coconut and lime. SilkAir flies five
Thetimes
roll-onweekly
effect is
satay, and if you’re game, camel, moorishcafe.com.au visible and
between Singapore in this photo
Darwin
SILKAIR.COM | 35CRAFT / MYANMAR 36 | SILKWINDS
WAY
OF THE
SHAN
The Shan people are the largest minority group
in Myanmar, with some of the most fascinating
culture of any of the country’s indigenous
tribes, including a unique artisanal culture
passed down for generations
WORDS SHELLEY SEALE
H
aving lived in the foothills from the plant helps absorb
of the Shan plateau in negative aura and bring good luck.
Myanmar for over 1,000 The sticky fibres inside the
years after migrating stem of the padonma kyar lotus
from southwest China, most Shan are first pulled out by hand.
have retained their traditional Once the fibers are twisted
ways through the centuries. Here into threads and spun around a
are some Shan crafts and skills to spindle, they are washed and then
see or even try your hand at. left in their natural cream hue, or
dyed with natural colours from
LOTUS SILK fruits, tree leaves or bark, and
1 Myanmar is the only place
in the world where silk is
flower petals to create vibrant
yarns. Once ready for weaving,
woven from an unusual source: the yarn is loaded onto large
lotus flowers. The tradition of traditional handlooms and turned
weaving lotus silk began as a way into shawls, clothing and bags.
to create monk’s robes, using the A small scarf can take one to two
most sacred flower regarded in days to make; for a full set of
the Buddhist world. As such, the monk’s robes, it can take up to
lotus silk reflects the noblest 60 weavers 10 days to complete
offering that can be made to – and requires as many as
Buddha, and the weavers believe 220,000 lotus stems to
that wearing something made produce enough thread.
SILKAIR.COM | 3738 | SILKWINDS
CRAFT / MYANMAR
Opening spread: A Shan
lotus silk weaver at work
Facing page, from top left: Stone
marble carvings; apprentices
take a year to learn the craft;
deft fingers at the handloom
This page, from top: Umbrellas
in a riot of colours created
from fine handmade paper;
a blacksmith shaping metal
into assorted implements
Check out: Demonstrations and
regular weaving work can be seen
at Ko Than Hlaing Silk & Lotus
Weaving Workshop in Inle Lake.
silkandlotusweaving.blogspot.com
STONE CARVING
2 Another craft that draws
heavily on Buddhist
tradition, stone carving is a
source of great pride and honour
for the Shan people. Workshops
can be found throughout
the country, but the highest
concentration is in Mandalay,
where Sagyin Hill lies. This small
mountain range of seven hills
contains marble that varies in hue
from pure white to bluish-grey,
and from which most Shan stone
carving is created.
Two-thirds of the families
in this area make a living from
creating these marble statues,
with the craft usually passed
from parent to children, and Bagan as a means to create purposes, such as ceremonial
involving the entire family. The weapons and armour as well swords used in weddings.
men hammer and then finely as agricultural and household
chisel the details into the stone, implements. Many of the smoke- Check out: The blacksmith
while the women polish the filled smithy shops dot the cities workshop located in Se-khong
finished product. The renowned and hills of the Shan areas, village in Inle Lake. You may also
nine-metre tall marble Buddha often beneath the home of purchase finished products here.
at the Kyauk Taw Gyi pagoda in the artisan.
Mandalay, one of the largest in The necessary fire never goes MARIONETTES
the nation, was carved in Sagyin. out, as the blacksmith moves
between it and the working bench.
4 Burmese puppetry, called
yoke thé, might have
Check out: Many workshops line Assistants (often their children) died out completely were it not
Kyauk Sit Tan, Mandalay’s famous pump dusty antique bellows to for the Mandalay Marionettes
“stone-carving road”, where you stoke the fire, as the blacksmiths Theatre, which prompted a surge
GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK
can watch the carving in action. pound glowing, white-hot metal in the popularity of this unique
into the desired shapes of knives, Myanmar tradition. The stories
BLACKSMITHING hammers, bells, buckles and originated from royal patronage,
3 The art of blacksmithing
is both a craft and a
bangles. Today, these blacksmith
products are used mainly for
centering around Buddha’s life
and local legend.
practical necessity, having household and agricultural The marionettes are intricate,
emerged during 11th-century needs; as well as for ornamental shaped from yamane or teak
SILKAIR.COM | 39CRAFT / MYANMAR
wood, stand 18 to 24 inches tall,
with each connected to 18 wires
(male characters) or 19 wires
(female characters), and are
controlled by one puppeteer. Each
completed multi-piece puppet is
then expertly joined together with
string and finished with detailed
painting, jewels and costumes.
Check out: The Shwe Yadana
Myaing Puppet Production Three types of materials are
Workshop in Mandalay. Or, enjoy used: rice straw, bamboo and
a traditional cultural show at the bark from the mulberry tree. Rice
Mandalay Marionettes Theatre. paper is made in three thicknesses
mandalaymarionettes.com and quality grades. After resting
in water and lime for five days
PAPERMAKING – which breaks down the fibres –
5 The Shan people are
believed to have originally
the rice straw is steamed under
a wood fire for three more. The
migrated from China’s Yunnan fiber is then rinsed with water and
province – and many skills beaten with a wood stamper for
came with them, such as hand at least 12 hours. The higher the
papermaking. Paper made this grade of paper, the longer it must
way, by hand rather than machine be beaten to create a thinner, finer
and using no electricity, is a rarity product. Mulberry bark is soaked
these days. in water for a day, then cooked
with wood ash for five hours.
Bamboo paper goes through a
similar process, but rests in lime
water for a minimum of three
years, and must be beaten far
longer.
The pounded wet fibre pulp is
then poured onto a screen and air
bubbles removed with a smooth
stick; then the sheet is dried in
the sun, and cut into the desired
sizes. Decorative elements like
flower petals and leaves are
placed on the wet paper while it is
on the screen, before drying.
The end result is used for
writing paper and to make items
such as umbrellas and fans. The
40 | SILKWINDSThis spread, clockwise from top:
Delicate, detailed marionettes;
combining bamboo and horsehair
makes fine lacquerware flexible;
Shan noodles hung out to dry; a
tempting bowl of Shan noodles;
lacquerware receptacles have
numerous versatile uses
sheets are also burnished to make Check out: Stop by Bagan’s
gold leaf, which are used smaller, family-owned workshops
for offerings and placed on such as Golden Cuckoo and
deity statues. Mya Thaw Tar for personal
demonstrations and to try your
Check out: Learn the craft of hand at creating lacquerware.
papermaking at Inle Princess
Hotel. inle-princess.com SHAN NOODLE MAKING
LACQUERWARE
7 Famed Shan noodles are
one of the best loved foods
6 This painstaking craft is
deeply ingrained in Shan
in Myanmar. This traditional flat
noodle is made with rice flour and
culture and across Myanmar – water that are cooked together and
you can find lacquerware bowls, fermented for several days, before
tableware and chests in palaces, being cut into strips and hung out in
temples and homes of regular the sun to dry.
Burmese. Each piece starts with The Shan also make a bean
a bamboo or horsehair base, noodle, usually with mung. The
which is then coated with seven beans are ground into a thick
to 16 layers of lacquer. After paste, then grated into strips.
each coat the piece is set aside in What sets Shan noodle dishes
an underground drying room for apart from other Burmese food is
seven days, then smoothed with a the emphasis on the noodles and
knife. After buffalo bone powder seasonings, rather than the meats
and cotton are applied with more and herbs added to it. Served
lacquer, the piece is ready for its as the main component of both
intricate design. salads and soups, the noodles
Using teakwood charcoal, are mixed with vegetables
cinnabar, indigo and other natural and toppings such as sesame,
powdered colours, the craftsman chickpea flour or fried garnishes,
creates his masterpiece using and served with a side of pickled
a small etching knife or needle. condiments. The combination of
The finished product is dried the noodles’ velvety texture and
underground again for one month, the sweet, sour and salty flavours
and then polished with petrified of the dish is addictive.
root powder before it can be sold.
A small cup can take six months Check out: Inthar Heritage
to produce, while larger pieces House offers cooking lessons
GETTY IMAGES; SHUTERSTOCK
emerge over years. Sein Naing, – learn how to make four local
a third-generation craftsman at dishes, including Shan noodles.
Mya Thaw Tar in Bagan, says his thahara.com
favourite piece – a large chest
designed on the inside as well as SilkAir flies three times
out – took him three years weekly between Singapore
to complete. and MandalayESCAPE / ASIA
ASIA’S RICH CULTURE AND WAY OF LIFE COMPELLED PHOTOGRAPHER
DREW HOPPER TO SPEND EIGHT MONTHS BACKPACKING AND PHOTOGRAPHING
THE REGION. “THE LANDSCAPES ARE STUNNING, THE FESTIVALS INCREDIBLE, AND
THE PEOPLE ARE SOME OF THE FRIENDLIEST, MOST ADAPTABLE PEOPLE I’VE MET,”
SAID HOPPER, “NO WORDS CAN DESCRIBE THE LIFE-CHANGING EXPERIENCE THAT
IS SOUTHEAST ASIA.”
42 | SILKWINDSSILKAIR.COM | 43
ESCAPE / ASIA Opening spread: Herders walking their goats back to the village at sunset in dusty Old Bagan, Myanmar This spread, clockwise from left: Fishermen convene amid lotus at Inle Lake, Myanmar; one of the most memorable moments from Siem Reap was being part of this local family being blessed by a monk inside Angkor Thom, Cambodia; a Cambodian artist demonstrating his talent with beautiful watercolours 44 | SILKWINDS
SILKAIR.COM | 45
ESCAPE / ASIA 46 | SILKWINDS
SILKAIR.COM | 47
ESCAPE / ASIA 48 | SILKWINDS
Previous spread: An enchanting evening on the full moon of the 12th lunar month in Chiang Mai, Thailand,
where people celebrate Loy Krathong (also called Festival of Light) over the weekend. Here, monks pray to
Buddha on the night of Loy Krathong inside the grounds of Wat Phan Tao
This spread, clockwise from top left: A Red Dao grandmother and her granddaughter in Ta Phin village,
Sapa, Vietnam; in Mae Hong Son region in northern Thailand, a bamboo raft floats on the freshwater channel
that flows through Tham Lod cave, a 1,666m-long limestone cave that is home to many bats and swifts;
a Burmese woman on the way to the market bearing a hefty load of fresh flowers on her head
SilkAir flies to Mandalay, Siem Reap, Chiang Mai and Hanoi.
For flight frequencies, see SilkAir Postcards on page 61
SILKAIR.COM | 49一 肉 其 油 年3月，美国《时代》杂志
缕 汤，中。然 票选全球10大最健康的早
餐，越南汤河粉榜上有名。
幽 从 来 而 报告指出，河粉加入了大量蔬菜和香
淡 口 一 生 草，轻怡有益，以骨头熬煮的汤头则
的 腔 碗 文 含有丰富明胶，能填补肠道的小洞。
一碗其貌不扬的汤河粉，竟然蕴藏
野 直 越 黎 了意想不到的营养价值，难怪越南
有
香，冲 南 玲 人一直以此为傲。
一 大 汤 法越的结晶
口 脑，河， 越南汤河粉被誉为是当地的非官
清 令 幸 方“国菜”，不少越南人均表示：
“清
香的汤河粉就像是我们的灵魂，是
洌 人 福 我们传承百年的文化精髓。”无须山
的 迷 感 珍海错，只要一碗在手，便是他们的
快乐泉源。
牛 倒 觉
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根据文献记载，越南汤河粉源于 被称为河内之汤。”由此可见，在越
19世纪末法国占领河内期间，由于 南河粉的龙虎榜上，河内占有重要
他们酷爱牛肉，因此当地人在法国 的一席。
人喜爱的红肉汤内加入牛肉片，并 来到河内，无论是高级餐厅，还
因应法式的烹调风格影响，再伴以 是大街小巷，总是飘扬着一股混和
炭烧的洋葱，为浓烈的汤底加添焦 了香草和牛肉浓香的气味，闻之怡
香，奠下越南清汤牛河的雏形。其 神醒胃，叫人禁不住垂涎再三。一碗
后河粉在国内遍地开花，演变出不 地道的河内汤河粉，必定有四项必
同的风味和个性，渐渐成为越南的 备材料：牛骨清汤、嫩滑牛肉片、如
代表美馔。 丝绸软滑的河粉，以及别具风味的
大量香料，组合成令人无法抗拒的
汤底的奥秘 经典美食。
越南著名作家Huu Ngoc在《徘徊于 完美的牛肉汤河淡雅飘香，齿颊
越南文化》一书内写道： “真正的河 留芳，灵魂就在于其汤底，必须清而
粉仅限于在越南可吃到，准确一点 不浊。讲究的厨师会以洋葱和牛骨 SO PHO, SO GOOD
是在北越，更准确点是在河内。它 熬煮，但切忌操之过急，先以上等牛 Savour the goodness of
骨和牛腩细火慢调，伴以八角和肉 Vietnam’s unofficial
桂等，动辄熬上10小时，还要不时撇 national dish
清浮于汤面的浓稠物，才能保持汤
寻味地图 底清澈，带点牛肉的浓香，却又毫不 In March this year, Time listed
来到河内，当然不能错过一尝正宗 油腻。呷一口汤，满口肉香，的确叫 Vietnamese pho as one of
的牛肉汤河，感受那一碗浓中带淡 人灵魂差点出窍。 the world’s top 10 healthiest
雅幽香的地道滋味。 南越人喜好偏甜，因此另辟蹊 breakfasts, as it’s chockful of
位于河内大都市索菲特传 径，在汤内加入冰糖，与北部如河内 vegetables and herbs while the
奇酒店的Spices Garden (www. 的又截然不同。最后举箸前再洒上 左页：尝过一口 bone broth contains gelatin,
sofitel-legend.com/hanoi), 环境华 大量香草，如新鲜薄荷叶、罗勒，佐 色香味俱全的牛 which helps repair the gut lining.
肉汤河粉后，齿
贵，服务超贴心，其越南牛肉河粉 以鱼露和青柠汁，一口爽口牛肉，一 颊留芳，令人回味
Pho is said to have originated
地道美味，配上一杯越南滴漏咖 口幼滑河粉，夹杂东南亚特有的香 再三。 in Hanoi in the late 19th century
啡，完美！ 草气味，就是一碗令人难以忘怀的 – French influences prompted
Pho Gia Truyen (#49 Bat Dan) 是 正宗河内河粉。 下：位于老城区的 the locals to add beef slices and
Pho Gia Truyen，环
老城区的路边摊，当地人誉为全城 grilled onion to their soup. The
境虽狭逼杂乱，仍
最佳的牛肉河粉店。环境说不上 胜安航空每周6班从新加坡直 然人潮不绝，只为 result is a dish that has taken on
理想，但汤头鲜甜，牛肉鲜嫩，充 航河内 碗中那一口鲜。 regional variations as it spread
满绝佳地道风味。 across Vietnam.
同样位于旧城区的Pho 10 (10 A bowl of authentic Hanoi
Ly Quoc Su) 是本地人的热门之选， pho consists of clear beef bone
店内飘扬着浓郁的牛肉汤气味。河 broth, tender beef slices, silky
粉价钱廉宜，份量十足，还可配上 rice noodles, and plenty of herbs
油条泡浸同吃，口味独特。 and spices. The secret lies in
the soup. Simmer premium beef
bones and brisket, add in star
anise, cinnamon and other spices,
then boil for 10 hours, taking
care to remove any floating
residue. This creates a clear
broth that packs a rich savoury
flavour without being oily. The
south Vietnamese add rock
ENGLISH TRANSLATION: JEFFREY KONG. GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY
sugar in their broth, so their
pho is sweeter.
Go on a pho trail in Hanoi. Try:
• Spices Garden Restaurant,
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi
(15 Ngo Quyen Street)
• Pho Gia Truyen (49 Bat Dan)
• Pho 10 (10 Ly Quoc Su)
SilkAir flies six times
weekly between
Singapore and Hanoi
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