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Supplemento al N. 8/2020 di Export Magazine - Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena   YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
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    On the cover: From Collistar Research, Attivi Puri,
                  a special formula with Vitamin C
                                                          		COMPANY
                                                                 4-­5   Collistar
                                                                   7    Acampora Profumi
                                                                  13    Laurent Mazzone
    supplemento al N. 8 ANNO XL
                                                                  12    Noble Isle
    novemBER-december 2020 BIMONTHLY
    novembre-dicembre 2020

    DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE
                                                          		EVENTS
    GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO                                             6    Esxence
    Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano                       8-­9   Creed – Calé
    n. 85 del 16/02/1991
                                                                  10    ADF&PCD and PLD
    Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45%
                                                                  11    TFWA–Singapore
    art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane
    Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa
    Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena

    Printing:
                                                          		LAUNCH
    Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO)                               3    Collistar – Attivi Puri
                                                                  14    Locherber Skincare
    Art Director
                                                                  15    Anine Bong
    Teresa Tibaldi
                                                                  16    Jeep
    Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl                              17    Dusita Parfums
    Via Romolo Gessi, 28
    20146 MILANO Italy
    Tel. 02/48.95.23.05                                   		report
    Telefax 02/41.23.405
    E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it                            18-23    Beauty & TV Shopping – by V. Kaminov
                                                                  24    m1nd-set
    Managing Editor
    Giuseppe Tirabasso

    Editor-in-chief
    Claudia Stagno
    E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

    Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard        		 Advertisers’ list
    Consultants
                                                            Cover-­II-­1 Collistar
    Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli -
                                                                     III Cosme Tokyo
    Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov -
    Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo -
                                                                     IV	Esxence
    Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn

    P.R. Promotion
    Italy:
    M.T.E. Edizioni

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YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
LAUNCH

        collistar
       ATTIVI PURI from Collistar Research
Pure Actives, known to be Collistar’s bestselling
range of targeted solutions for skin requirements,
has just launched two new products formulated with
Vitamin C: Vitamin C + Alpha-Arbutin, and Vitamin
C + Ferulic Acid Cream. Cell oxidation is one of the
primary causes of skin aging, and it is caused by quite
a few factors such as UV radiation, smoking, a poor
diet, pollution, smog etc. Ascorbic Acid, better known
as Vitamin C, has an important antioxidant activity.
It supports the immune system and protects cell
DNA from oxidative stress. In these two products the
essential component is Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a stable
derivative that boosts its effectiveness.
It is gradually released into tissue and has remarkable
penetration and biovailability properties.

            Pure Actives
          is now enriched
         with two products
The formulas created by Collistar are ideal for           It helps keep the skin firm and youthful by stimulating
preventing the signs of aging, or when the skin looks     collagen synthesis and keeping it working. It is
dull, tired and lacking of tones.                         recommended as a beauty routine complement for
With the help of active ingredients selected for their    all ages for visible short-term and long-term results.
targeted action and for visible results, products allow
to revive dull complexions, protect against oxidative     VITAMIN C + FERULIC ACID CREAM
stress, stimulate collagen and prevent the signs of       Vitamin C + Ferulic Acid Cream is ideal for keeping
aging, leaving the face brighter.                         the skin radiant and healthy and to prevent the
The gradual release of Vitamin C used in Collistar        first sign of aging. The pure Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
specialties makes them extremely efficacious and          formula is boosted by the addition of Ferulic Acid,
suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.    a powerful antioxidant and anti-free radical that
                                                          works in synergy with the Vitamin C, increasing its
VITAMIN C + ALPHA-ARBUTIN                                 effectiveness. Day by day the face becomes brighter
Vitamin C + Alpha-Arbutin, a drop preparation for         and smoother, with a better quality of skin.
bright, oxygenated, healthy skin, has been specially
formulated with an aqueous base to guarantee              The drop and cream formulas are effective on
optimum skin hydration levels, to help the molecule       their own but are even more powerful when used
penetrate the skin properly.                              together, reaching a 88% antioxidant efficacy.

                                                                                                                             3
YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
COMPANY

              Collistar        THE SPECIALIST AND LEADER

              The aim of Collistar, a brand with a 100% Italian
              history, is to offer its clients quality products, always
                                                                                      The well-known
              focusing on the philosophy and the values that it has
              always espoused. Collistar is a story of research and
                                                                                Milan-based company
              passion, creativity and science, which from Milan has
              won over the whole world.
                                                                                 presents a complete
              A number of Collistar products have become
              real icons of beauty which for over 30 years have
                                                                            range of highly-advanced
              accompanied women every day, to reveal their
              beauty. These products, revolutionary in their time
                                                                                  products that really
              and even today, are the best expression of the
              alliance between innovation, creativity, passion
                                                                               work to meet all needs
              and Italianness which has always characterized the
              Collistar brand.

                                                                                As soon as it is applied, it immediately
                                                                                  comforts the driest skins, fades out signs
                                                                                    of dehydration and the face immediately
                                                                                      takes on greater glow and radiance.

                                                                                               An icon since 1985

                                                                                             Hyaluronic Acid
                                                                                               In the Pure Actives range,
                                                                                               Hyaluronic Acid is Collistar’s best-
                                                                                              selling intensive face care product.
                                                                                           Its optimal concentration ensures
                                                                                       maximum efficacy, with its formula
                                                                                   containing three different molecular weights
                                                                               to act on the different layers of the skin. Ideal for
              Deep Moisturizing Cream                                     all skin types, it contributes to preventing the signs
              An iconic product beloved by women of all ages,             of time and visibly fills in the skin. Applied morning
              this cream strengthens and protects all skin types          and evening before the usual cream, it reinforces
              and preserves its hydration for up to 72 hours.             its treating action by providing the moisturization
              Its lush and melting texture is now more effective          necessary to keep skin smooth and toned. It is
              than ever thanks to the new formula reinforced with         ideal on its own or associated with complementary
              Idro-Attiva® Complex with a moisturizing action and         specific facial care.
              Italian peony extract, which has antioxidant, detox
              and regenerating properties.                                            An icon since 2013

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YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
COMPANY

Face Magic Drops
In the self-tanning range, Face magic Drops give the
skin an even and healthy glow in less than an hour,
just like after a day in the open air. This rapid result
is thanks to DHA Rapid, an exclusive self-tanning
molecule that reduced by half the time necessary to
colour skin. The formula also contains Vitamin E and
biotech plant extracts with an anti-age moisturizing
action to protect the skin and keep it silky-smooth.
Suitable for all complexions, it is ideal for a natural-
looking radiant and even tan, thanks to its liquid
texture which is easy to apply uniformly.
Its intensity can be built up: For a tanned effect, only
a few drops every two or three days are necessary,
for a healthy glow, one or two drops can be missed
with the usual day cream before application.

            An icon since 2007                                                        Anticellulite Cryo-Gel
                                                                                   With its new boosted formula,
Energizing Talasso-Scrub                                                        this gel with an immediate
This home treatment, worthy of the best luxury spas,                            cold effect gives a sensation of
combines the power of the sea (thalassotherapy)                                        lightness, in particular on
with the benefits of aromatherapy to regenerate                                          the legs, while essential
the skin and give the body an immediate sensation                                         oils contribute to a feeling
of vigour and well-being. Its formula contains                                            of well-being.
an exclusive cocktail of exfoliating sea salts and                                        Plant alpha-hydroxy-acids
selected plant oils and hydrating-nourishing                                              have a reinforced lifting
essential oils which revitalize the skin, while leaving                                  effect, Centella Asiatica
it velvety-soft. Ideal for all skin types, it leaves the                                 neutralizes     the      loss
skin more receptive to subsequent specialized                                            of elasticity and has a
care. Used before exposure to the sun and the                                           progressive lifting action.
application of self-tanning products, it guarantees                                     Pink pepper and caffeine
a more even and longer lasting colour. It can be                                       limit the appearance of
used once or twice a week, massaged on to wet                                          mature adipocytes, prevent
skin for a gentle gommage or on to dry skin for a                                     the storage of new lipids
greater exfoliating effect.                                                          and foster the elimination of
                                                                                    existing cellulite. Anticellulite
            An icon since 1999                                                     Cryo-Gel is ideal to fight all
                                                           types of cellulite, in particular orange peel skin. It is
                                                           also recommended for heavy and tired legs and/or
                                                           with signs of fragile thread veins.

                                                                        An icon since 2003

                                                                  Collistar’s other icons are the
                                                                  Magnifica range for mature skins
                                                                  (since 2007), Mascara Infinito
                                                                  (since 2009) for infinitely long
                                                                  and thick lashes and Bronzing
                                                                  Powder (since 1983) for a healthy
                                                                  glow to perfect every look.                                      5
YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
EVENTS

                ESXENCE                        THE ART PERFUMERY EVENT
The twelfth edition of Esxence - The                                                           will be possible to follow them on these
Art Perfumery Event, the world’s most                                                          digital platforms: webinars, round tables
important event in the area of niche                                                           and lectures featuring some of the most
perfumery, is set to take place from 31st                                                      authoritative protagonists and experts
March to 2nd April 2021 at MiCo, Milano                                                        at world level, held in partnership with
Convention Centre. The decision has been                                                       Essencional, the international study centre
taken by the organizing Committee in                                                           directed by Silvio Levi. “Esxence is a world
order to encourage the attendance of a                                                         benchmark event in the field of artistic
wide international audience and to launch                                                      perfumery, devised and created by a group
a new phase for Esxence, enriched with                                                         of experts whose involvement in the sector
innovative contents and insights, aiming at                                                    of niche perfumery cannot be described in
a remarkable globalization, while providing                                                    terms of mere enthusiasm”, stresses Silvio
full safety for our exhibitors and visitors.                                                   Levi, President of the Esxence Technical
                                                                                               Committee and Director of Essencional.
12th EDITION SET TO TAKE                                                                       When it comes to education and training,

PLACE FROM 31st MARCH                                                                          the partnership between Esxence and the
                                                                                               Milan Polytechnic Department of Design
TO 2nd APRIL 2021                                      Maurizio Cavezzali and Silvio Levi      is broadening the scope of its action,
                                                                                               supporting and sustaining the practical
                                               enthusiasms, experiences and creativity:        workshop part of the “Health & Beauty
                                               the fair is the irreplaceable culmination for   New Generation” course, an innovative,
                                               the whole industry.” - comments Maurizio        experimental teaching project that guides
                                               Cavezzali, CEO of Equipe Exibit. In recent      students through a learning experience,
                                               months, a large proportion of Esxence           taking in artistic perfumery, design and
                                               activities has moved online and onto social     luxury packaging. During the next edition
                                               networks. The event’s official website          of Esxence, visitors will be able to take a
                                               www.esxence.com now hosts Esxence               direct part in these activities and see the
                                               Stories, a new communication project            prototypes created specifically for the
                                               set up to support the exhibitors and give       event. Timed to coincide with the event,
                                               them a chance to talk about their brands        from 31st March to 2nd April 2021, the
                                               and present their new products, as well         spaces of the MiCo, Milano Convention
                                               as a place for debating with experts and        Centre will also host the second edition
                                               enthusiasts. In parallel, Esxence Meets         of the Experience Lab, promoted by the
                                               has developed on the social networks as         company Experience Me, the appointment
“In our work, we are ensuring this twelfth     a virtual discussion forum for meeting          devoted to niche beauty of excellence.
edition to be as special and filled with       with the industry’s leading protagonists,
innovations as possible, fulfilling our role   facilitating an exchange of ideas and
of incubator for new trends and launchpad      launching a message to the artistic                    More information
for emerging brands. Esxence thrives on        perfumery scene. Similarly, some of the
human relations and professional bonds         appointments in the Esxence calendar
                                                                                                       is available at:
to optimize and facilitate an exchange of      of events will be brought forward and it              www.esxence.com
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YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
COMPANY

 AND THE WINNER IS…YOUNG HEARTS BY

 ACAMPORA
 PROFUMI
 Acampora Profumi is delighted to have been awarded       Held over Zoom due to the
 the “Art and Olfaction Awards 2020” prize in the         pandemic, the ceremony
 Independent Category for its Young Hearts fragrance.     organized by the Institute for
                                                          Art and Olfaction celebrated
                                                          excellence in independent
                                                          perfumery, together with all
                                                          the guests and candidates from
                                                          the most famous perfume
                                                          houses all over the world.
                                                          Young Hearts was created
                                                          by Acampora Profumi in
                                                          collaboration with Miguel
                                                          Matos and belongs to the
                                                          Acampora 54 Collection.

                                                              The fragrance has been awarded the
                                                               “Art and Olfaction Awards 2020”
                                                               prize in the Independent Category
                                                                     Dewy, fresh, green and peculiar, with a
                                                                     woody and green opening, followed by a
Acampora Profumi was founded in 1954 by the Neapolitan               cool breeze of leathery saffron. The heart
gentleman, Bruno Acampora. The brand has always been                 lengthens the forest scent of pine with
about an immersive sensory experience: its fragrances                balsam fir, together with an abstract floral
never cease to arouse deep emotions and, for some                    composition followed by a chypre accord.
aspects, provocations. The winning fragrance is an Extrait           Young hearts by Acampora Profumi is
de Parfum: midway between a Pure Essence and an Eau de               confirmed as a fragrance to be discovered.
Parfum, it contains a very high concentration of carefully           It is also a tribute to the free spirit of
diluted aromatic ingredients. This is the purest way of              the Maison, a habitué of New York in
applying the chosen essence and offers incomparable                  the period of Pop Art and when in the
persistence and intensity. Young Hearts belongs to the               legendary Studio 54, the magical notes of
Acampora Fifty-Four range, a collection that lets you dance          ‘Young Hearts’ was played!
with the senses, - and more. It is the energy of music that
is released in fragrances that cry out their extravagance.
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YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
EVENTS

            A NEW
                             CREED   BOUTIQUE IN ROME
         After Milan, where Calé opened the first Creed      As Silvio Levi, CEO of Calé said, “Today we are
         Boutique outside France in 2014, Rome now has a     delighted to celebrate this very long friendship by
         Creed Boutique of its own.                          giving to Rome, one of the most beautiful capitals in
         The Rome address of the prestigious perfumery       the world, the second Italian Creed Boutique.
         brand founded in 1760 by James Creed is 179/A Via   A city so full of history could no longer wait for the
         del Babuino, in the heart of the city and between   presence of a Boutique wholly dedicated to a brand
         Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo.             which has helped write the history of perfumery.”
         The bond between Calé and Creed dates back to       The new flagship store in Rome was designed by
         1985 when Creed started to conquer the reputation   the French architect Can Onaner who, with the
         it enjoys today.                                    operative support and close collaboration with the
                                                             architect Domenico Farinaro (Studio C+) who was
                                                             commissioned by Calé for the Milan Creed Boutique,
     In collaboration with Calé,                             translated into the design of the Boutique the
                                                             dialectic between modernity and tradition dear to the
     Creed has recently opened                               Creed family. This result was made possible through
                                                             the inclusion of architectonic elements which have
    a boutique in the Eternal City                           as their model the Austrian architect Adolf Loos.
                                                             For Loos ancient Rome represented the essence of
                                                             classic tradition and Can Onaner has reinterpreted in

8
EVENTS

                                                         The fourth area has the usual stylistic features of
                                                         Creed – marble columns, plastered beams, a coffered
                                                         ceiling with brass grilles and mirrors. The journey ends
                                                         in a private lounge characterized by green velvet and
                                                         brass walls. The visitor immediately sees the contrast
                                                         between the impressive marble and the refined shin of
                                                         the lines in steel, the brass mosaics and mirrors, which
                                                         become the symbols of a fragile and almost ephemeral
                                                         balance. As in the Milan Creed Boutique, there is a
                                                         space dedicated to the history of the Creed brand.

a contemporary way some aspects typical of Roman
architecture, such as the arch and the vault, for the
five areas of the Boutique, each of which has its own
atmosphere. The premises, more than 18 metres
long and less than 3 metres wide, with irregular walls
and floors, at first seemed to present a number
of difficulties for the architects, but they actually
proved to be the greatest advantages of the project.
From the vestibule to the entrance, there is a room
with a vaulted ceiling, a marble checkerboard floor
and brass mosaic walls with square niches for the
display of the brand’s new products.
The third room has a vaulted ceiling and the walls
are covered with brass grilles which are reflected on
mirrored surfaces. The marble element is repeated
on the counters and the floor.

                                                         To celebrate the inauguration of the new Boutique,
                                                         on 14th October 2020 during the Rome Film Festival,
                                                         a short film entitled “Essenza” was presented
                                                         featuring Ana Caterina Morariu and directed by
                                                         Alessandro Angelini. Thanks to the collaboration of
                                                         the cinema web magazine The Hot Corn, a number of
                                                         personalities from Italian cinema were interviewed
                                                         in the store both during the inauguration and during
                                                         the week of the Rome Film Festival.

                                                                                                                    9
EVENTS

       ADF&PCD
       and PLD
       Paris 2021
       AnnounCes new June DAtes
  Easyfairs, organiser of ADF&PCD and             Renan Joel, Divisional Director for              change the dates of the main event, I am
  PLD Paris, the world’s leading event for        Easyfairs UK & Global’s packaging                positive that we will continue to provide
  perfume, cosmetics and premium drinks           events, states: “Exhibitors, visitors and        a strong platform for the market to do
  packaging and aerosol and dispensing            association partners have expressed their        business in the coming months. “While
  technology, today announces that the            overwhelming support for the change in           2020 has been a very challenging year for
  event will be postponed from 20 & 21            the dateline and for the crucial role that       everyone, and the opportunities for face-
  January 2021 to 22 & 23 June 2021.              ADF&PCD and PLD Paris plays in creating          to-face contact have been limited, it has
  Alongside the change in dates, it has           connections and opportunities for                given us two very important messages.
  launched an inspiring new programme of          everyone involved in packaging innovation        The first is that never before have humans
  digital and face-to-face activity to continue   in those markets.”                               and businesses craved that opportunity
  to drive packaging innovation in the            The move to June reaffirms the strong            to get back together and meet in person,
  coming months.                                  commitment of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris              reasserting the value that events like
                                                  to supporting and driving packaging              ADF&PCD and PLD bring to communities.
                                                  innovation and business for its French and       The other is that we have a great

  January event postponed                         international community in a face-to-face
                                                  environment in Paris, the global capital
                                                                                                   opportunity to branch out and innovate;
                                                                                                   and that is what has driven new ideas
 alongside unveiling of new                       of the beauty and luxury industries. To          that we know will provide added value for

activities to drive innovation                    support this commitment in the coming            the community both in the digital and live
                                                  months, ADF&PCD and PLD Paris is                 environment. We are very excited about
                                                  planning a series of new initiatives that        what this will bring for 2021.
                                                  will continue to help packaging specifiers       “In the meantime, I would like to thank
  The decision to move the dates of the           to discover the latest packaging products,       our many partners among our exhibitors,
  event has been taken in consultation with       connect with key suppliers, learn from           visitors, associations and media for their
  the event’s many stakeholders across the        the most influential thought leaders and         ongoing support for the event and I look
  industry in response to the ongoing Force       celebrate the industry’s best work.              forward to working with them all to deliver
  Majeure situation and the unforeseeable,        In the digital space, an enhanced content        a wonderful and unique summer edition
  unavoidable, unprecedented, global and          offering will be rolled out, while a new         of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris in 2021.”
  continuing scope of the Coronavirus. While      virtual event is being planned.
  Easyfairs had put in place an industry-         In addition, a small, exclusive event in Paris
  leading programme of measures to                reserved for a select group of top brand                 More information
  ensure the safety of visitors and exhibitors    owners and suppliers is in development.
  at the event, the limit of 1,000 participants   Joel adds: “ADF&PCD and PLD Paris is                        is available at:
  at events imposed by the French                 known as the place where brands kickstart
  Government has made it impossible to            their innovation projects for the year;
                                                                                                      www.adfpcdparis.com
  organise the event on its original dates.       so, while we have had no choice but to

  10
EVENTS

TFWA Asia Pacific
Exhibition
& Conference                                            to return in 2021
                                                        Further details will be announced shortly. Building
                                                        on its series of webinars, including TFWA China
                                                        Reborn, TFWA Asia Pacific Exhibition & Conference
                                                        will present the most up-to-date research,
                                                        brand news and trade advice to enable industry
                                                        professionals to grow their business in the key
                                                        Asia Pacific region, with a particular focus on the
                                                        fast-growing Chinese market. TFWA’s mission has
                                                        always been to bring members of the industry
                                                        together, and the event will also incorporate a
                                                        refreshed format of the well-established TFWA
                                                        ONE2ONE meeting service, which offers attendees
                                                        an invaluable chance to network.

The TFWA Asia Pacific Exhibition & Conference, the
leading trade event covering the duty free and travel
retail developments in Asia Pacific and beyond, will        “At this difficult time, it’s more
make its return from 9 th to 13th May. The event will       important than ever that we
combine the best of physical and virtual to offer           continue to connect as an
more flexibility and convenience to delegates.              industry,” said TFWA President
                                                            Alain Maingreaud. TFWA Asia Pacific
                                                            Exhibition & Conference presents an
                                                            unrivalled opportunity to learn about
                                                            programmes for recovery and gain understanding
                                                            of a market that remains the most important in our business.
                                                            But even more essentially, it will provide something
                                                            that only TFWA events can. That is a globally-respected
                                                            forum to create and foster the business relationships
                                                            which will be the life blood of our industry going forward.”

                                                        More information is available at: www.tfwa.com
                                                                                                                           11
COMPANY

Noble Isle
                                                                       The best phyto extracts and fragrances of the line are
                                                                       the result of careful selection and research: Yorkshire
                                                                       rhubarb, elderflower and gooseberry from Cornwall,
                                                                       Hampshire roses, Irish sea oak, Scottish barley malt

     BRITAIN IN A BOTTLE
                                                                       and Welsh beets. The fragrances are composed by
                                                                       expert English noses who have been able to create
                                                                       notes capable of evoking a typical British atmosphere
                                                                       in the bathroom. Noble Isle is a company strongly
                                                                       attentive to environmental change and, through its
                                                                       choices, encourages greater awareness of respect for
                                                                       the environment: vegan-friendly, clean and cruelty-
                                                                       free products with completely recyclable packaging,
                                                                       always without SLS or parabens. The brand is in the
                                                                       process of certification by the Vegan Association
                                                                       and the “Leaping Bunny” which guarantees that the
                                                                       products are not tested on animals; it also supports
                                                                       the “Clean Conscience”, an organization that deals
                                                                       with the recycling and reuse of components.

                                                                                                 The lines

                                                                             Perry Pear is a lively fragrance of ripe fruit
                                                                             and delicate orange blossom, enriched with
                                                                             Gloucestershire cider pear extract. Available in
                                                                             shampoo 250 ml and conditioner 250 ml. Fireside
                                                                             is a fragrance that lights the fireplace of a country
                                                                             inn. The fragrance is available in a bath & shower
                                                                             gel 250ml and a body lotion 250 ml. Rhubarb
                                                                             Rhubarb! Is the humid awakening of dew typical
                                                                             of a spring in Yorkshire. It is available as bath &
                                                                             shower gel 250 ml, body hydrator 250 ml, hand
                                                                             wash 250 ml and hand lotion 250 ml. Summer Rising
                                                                             is an idyllic fragrance that evokes the beginning of
                                                                             summer with invigorating elderflower extracts
                                                                             and antioxidant Cornish gooseberries. It can be
                                                                             enjoyed in the bath & shower gel 250 ml and body
      This brand celebrates the modern                                       lotion 250 ml. Whisky & Water evokes a quiet evening
                                                                             at sunset in front of a crackling fire, sipping a glass
     concept of bathroom ritual and body                                     of fine whisky. It is available as bath & shower gel
                                                                             250 ml, hand wash 250ml and hand lotion 250 ml.
         care with British inspiration                                       Willow Song is like a romantic walk in the shade of
                                                                             a weeping willow, a floral composition with warm
                                                                             woody aroma. It is available in bath & shower gel
              Katy Simpson, founder and CEO of the brand, decided            250 ml and body cream 250 ml. Lastly, Tea Rose
              to combine the finest fragrances with natural extracts         has all the elegance and grace of the 5 o’clock tea
              native to the “Noble Isle”, to pay tribute to Great            in London’s grand hotels. It is available as bath &
              Britain. All the refined ingredients of the products           shower gel 250ml, body cream 250ml, hand wash
              come from famous local producers, so that a small              250 ml and hand lotion 250 ml.
              piece of Britain is enclosed in every bottle.

12                                                            Noble Isle is distributed in Italy by Aquacosmetics, Milan
company

Laurent Mazzone        THE BRAND’S NEW AUTUMN FRAGRANCES
                                                          Similarly, in India, it was believed that its perfume
                                                          could lead to an oblivion of sentimentality from which
                                                          it was impossible to escape. In Ayurvedic medicine,
                                                          tuberose is used to stimulate the right side of the
                                                          brain, amplifying artistic inspiration and, in particular,
                                                          the ability to feel emotions and feelings. Laurent’s
                                                          tuberose goes beyond the known imagination to
                                                          the roots of this extreme flower. An unconventional
                                                          combination of the herbaceous notes of galbanum
                                                          and the hesperidian notes of yuzu that surrender
                                                          to the imposing Indian tuberose. At its heart, Indian
                                                          jasmine accentuates the sunny enchantment of this
                                                          exotic and disturbing flower, while velvety peach and
                                                          sensual blonde woods caress the skin.
                                                          This season, two of the brand’s cult fragrances have
                                                          been remixed to the extreme. The result is effective and
                                                          very powerful: two extraits de parfum concentrated
                                                          at 20% and distorted in their characteristics. A new

       All Laurent Mazzone                                universe is ready to welcome the lovers of Black Oud
                                                          and Ultimate Seduction with the most authentic notes

   creations are inspired by                              of the LM Parfums signature. In Black Oud Extrême
                                                          Amber, the oud flows indomitable and powerful like

  art - and the season’s new                              fiery lava, whose heat forms a shimmering glass shield
                                                          that shines and invokes the protection of darkness.

fragrances are no exception                               The inevitable flows like glowing lava. The impact
                                                          with the inevitable will change its path forever. Prayer
                                                          becomes prophecy and is transformed into truth.
Lost Paradise, an enchanting and inebriating symphony,    The amber, so concentrated, burns in an indomitable
is inspired by a one-way journey into an intense and      fire. It is a fragrance that burns like the passion of a
stimulating paradise lost. This new black label extrait   fiery love. The top notes are incense and spices, the
de parfum takes us directly to the heart of a luxuriant   heart notes oud and grey amber and the base notes
jungle, the intrinsic heat of which exalts the hypnotic   sandalwood, cedar, chives, castoreum and vanilla.
scents of its tropical flowers. It is an oasis which      Ultimate Seduction Extrême Oud is where it all begins,
fascinates and from which there can be no return, a       here are the first steps of a ritual that transforms
spell that bewitches without leaving any chance.          desire into carnal passion. A breath that flees and
Radikal Tuberose, the new extrait de parfum by            rises higher. But when amber shines it throws the
Laurent Mazzone has as its protagonist the most           lapilli of fire and when the sky is a chipped mirror
sensual and controversial flower in perfumery.            then you realize you are on the other side. Beyond the
Known for its disturbing properties, the tuberose has     limit, passion ignites, everything reflects and burns
always embodied the myth of the forbidden flower.         to become extreme. The top notes are pink berries,
During the Renaissance, girls were forbidden from         blackcurrant and orange, the heart notes violet, iris
smelling its narcotic perfume because they were too       and rose and the base notes patchouli, oud accord,
vulnerable to the aphrodisiac power of the fragrance.     amber, blond woods, cedar and pralines.

Laurent Mazzone is distributed in Italy by Aquacosmetics, Milan                                                        13
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Locherber Skincare
            PRESENTS THE MILKY WAY
                                                                     The textures have been designed to meet the needs
                                                                     both of younger skins, and as a fresher and lighter
                                                                     beauty routine for mature skins. Refined materials
                                                                     have been chosen for the packaging, with a glass jar
                                                                     for the face cream, and the colours evoke the softness
                                                                     and richness of milk, with details in the sophisticated
                                                                     shade of rose gold for a precious and elegant touch.
                                                                     Other products will join the line which has been
                                                                     created to bring into the daily beauty routine the
                                                                     luxury of an experience of very high Swiss quality,
                                                                     but with a completely Italian concept.
                                                                     Milky Way Multifunctional purifying face gel/brightening
                                                                     milk gives maximum comfort during cleansing and is
                                                                     a fresh gel texture which, on contact with water, is
                                                                     transformed into a soft milk that an regenerate and
                                                                     cleanse the skin in depth. Its formula is enriched with
                                                                     extract of ginger root, whilst coffee powder creates a
                                                                     gentle scrub effect. The peptide Vita Genesis White
                                                                     gives brightness and Probiotics like Soy, Ginseng and
                                                                     Rice create a combined action to protect the face
                                                                     from external aggression.
                                                                     Milky Way detox cream/brightening face cream is
                                                                     a mini-treatment that can regenerate the skin,
                                                                     leaving it compact, silky-smooth and moisturized.
                                                                     Its formula contains Meadowfoam Seeds and Shea
                                                                     Butter with together boost hydration, Vitamin B3
                                                                     which stimulates the production of collagen and

     The new beauty ritual to brighten                               Vita Genesis White to brighten the complexion. Soy,
                                                                     Ginseng and Rice, together with White Tea, create a

           and protect the face                                      natural barrier against external agents.

            Milky Way by Locherber Skincare is the new beauty
            routine in facial care developed to purify, moisturize
            and brighten the skin. The line is made up of two
            products which act in synergy: the Multifunction
            Purifying Face Gel/Brightening Milk and the Detox-
            Brightening Face Cream. The line was inspired by
            the light of the Milky Way which fascinated Brigitte
            Baerlocher, head of Marketing and Communication
            of Cosval Group as a child and who wanted to create
            a line that enclosed all the essence of this universe.

14
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ANINE
BING
new Eau de Parfum &
Candle, Pure Noir
Pure Noir represents the alliance of softness
and strength. Laced with mystery, it explores the
union of black baccarat rose, papyrus, and spicy
saffron faceted with dark notes of guaiac wood
and mahogany. Anine, Founder and Chief Creative
Officer, wanted to create a follow-up to her first
fragrance Savage Rose that felt different. Something
deep and sensual, yet feminine and versatile
enough for everyday wear. Pure Noir is wrapped in
notes of unpredictability. It embodies the energy
of the unapologetic modern woman, who is bold in
spirit and assertively feminine. “Pure Noir is such a
personal scent. It reminds me of my travels to all of
my favorite cities around the world, staying at cozy
boutique hotels, exploring new neighborhoods.
It embodies the spirit of Copenhagen and Paris, which
is rich with possibility. Pure Noir is a mysterious
fragrance. When I wear it I feel independent, strong
and feminine.” – Anine Bing, Founder and Chief
Creative Officer. Pure Noir Eau de Parfum and Candle
launches on October 15th, available exclusively online
and in-store at ANINE BING.

       ANINE BING is a Los Angeles based fashion brand started in     by a loyal social-media following and the drive to offer an
       2012 by Anine Bing, Founder and Chief Creative Officer, and    exceptional customer-service experience teamed with a
       Nicolai Bing, Founder and Chief Executive Officer. Inspired    modern approach to immediate fulfilment of merchandise.
       by Scandinavian simplicity and American energy, Bing’s         Is sold by more than 350 retailers globally. With retail stores
       goal was to build a brand focused on everyday wardrobe         found in major cities worldwide including Los Angeles, New
       essentials and investment pieces for modern women              York, San Francisco, Miami, Paris, London, Barcelona, Madrid,
       seeking a timeless yet rebellious approach to style. Powered   Sydney, Hamburg and Berlin – with more coming soon.

                                                                                                                                    15
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DIAMOND INTERNATIONAL:
A NEW COLLABORATION WITH THE

       JEEP BRAND                   ®
                                                                      experience through the 7 slot grille, the iconic symbol
                                                                      of the Jeep brand. Freedom reveals all the personality
                                                                      of the man who chooses this Jeep fragrance; intense,
                                                                      exciting, determined and energetic. Jeep’s Freedom
                                                                      brings with it the fascination of the unexplored, the
                                                                      emotions of the surprise and the energy of feeling
                                                                      without limits. It is a modern reinterpretation of
                                                                      fougère, the moist classic of the masculine olfactory
                                                                      families, It moves on contrasts of aromatic and
                                                                      woody, intense and delicate notes, which start from
                                                                      the freshness of Bergamot warmed by an intense
                                                                      Resin which opens the way for the surprising spiciness
              Freedom and Adventure are the names of the two          of Sichuan Pepper, mixed with the classic Geranium.
              lines of fragrances for men that seal the licensing     The olfactory composition closes with the woody and
              agreement between Diamond International – part of       spicy notes of Vetiver and Patchouli reinforced by the
              the So.Di.Co group – and FCA Group LLC. These two       animal and wild mood of Amber Gris.
              names reflect the values and the DNA of the Jeep®
              brand: freedom, authenticity, adventure and passion.
                                                                          Two lines of fragrances
              They find their perfect expression in two new lines
              of fragrance with a bold and intense character, made       for men seal the licensing
              up of three references: Eau de Toilette, Shower Gel
              and Deodorant Spray. The packaging expresses and
                                                                                agreement
              outlines the free, ambitious, determined and sober
              virility of the Jeep man: clear and strong lines that   Adventure, the Jeep fragrance conceived for a man
              represent new limits to overcome, new emotions to       free from conventions, determined and in search
                                                                      of places where he can be himself, is real praise for
                                                                      a passion for adventure and breathless emotions.
                                                                      Aromatic, woody and seductively floral, the olfactory
                                                                      composition reveals a strong character, a spirit that
                                                                      always decides its own destiny. It is a strong, bold and
                                                                      voluptuous fragrance, that expresses energy without
                                                                      ever raising the olfactory tones, following the harmony
                                                                      of refinement that is expressed in total discretion. It
                                                                      explodes like an enveloping fusion of the aromatic
                                                                      and fresh notes of Mint, Grapefruit and Pepper,
                                                                      amalgamated with the sweetness of Rose and the
                                                                      spicy touch of Nutmeg, with the velvety and soft bed
                                                                      of Vetiver and the very classic Incense and Oak Moss.

16
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The northern
Thailand city
inspires this woody
and aromatic fragrance

MOONLIGHT
IN   CHIANGMAI
the new creation by
DUSITA PARFUMS
The brand new fragrance by Dusita Parfums has           scenery, and wanted to transmit this magical feeling
been inspired by Chiangmai, the city in northern        to others, I depicted the soft moonlight and desired
Thailand famous for its stunning temples, such as       nocturnal mood blending the unique energy of
Doi Suthep, and the famous paper lantern festival.      exotic Japanese Yuzu with the floral opulence of
Playing with the contrast between light and shadow,     night-blooming Indian Jasmine, as well as my own,
Moonlight in Chiangmai paints in olfactory terms        exclusive Teak Wood accord that lovingly evokes my
a wonderful scene of the city at night, lit by the      homeland, Thailand.”
moonlight and the paper lanterns floating in the sky.   The opening has the energetic citrus freshness of
The atmosphere in Chiangmai is jovial and serene,       Japanese Yuzu combined with the floral opulence
between heaven and earth.                               of night-blooming Jasmine. At the heart of the
The fragrance portrays a moment of silence and          fragrance, the warm spices of Indian Nutmeg are
contemplation, looking over the city of Chiangmai       blended with the vanilla-nuanced sweetness of
from above. The moon is full and the moonlight          Benzoin Siam to build up a wonderfully dense heart.
encounters the floodlights that illuminate the          The base notes, a resinous touch of Myrrh is
famous gilded Chedi and the Royal umbrellas in a        beautifully wrapped in the woody tones of Patchouli
merging embrace of lights.                              Indonesia, Vetiver Haiti and Thai Teak Wood in
Pissara Umavijani, founder of Dusita Parfums and        a comfortable, long-lasting embrace. Moonlight
the brand’s in-house perfumer, confides that she        in Chiangmai celebrates the understanding and
chose her palette of materials just like a painter,     tolerance that are essential to building meaningful
“I could feel myself again in that wonderful night      connections among people in modern times.            www.parfumsdusita.com

                                                                                                                           17
R       E       P       O       R       T

                                                             beauty & TV
                                                             Shopping:
                                                             A Global
       VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY
                                                             Success Story
                                                             The phenomenon that is TV Shopping has taken the cosmetics industry by storm,
    Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director
                                                             today many home shopping networks are regarded as the beauty destinations to
         of the highly successful International Luxury
                                                             watch. From big name brands to those more under the radar, TV Shopping beauty
             Brand Consultancy based in London.
                                                             buyers are cleverly creating collections for millions of customers.
            For over 20 years Valérie has been at
        the forefront of the global cosmetics industry
         and has worked with a vast array of luxury,         When you look at the numbers you understand the power of these channels. Take
     premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances.         QVC, it reaches over 370 million homes in the US, UK and Ireland, Germany, Austria,
         Her extensive expertise, commercial acumen          Japan, Italy, France and with a joint venture in China. It has 14 television networks, 1
     and practical experience are much sought after by       billion plus visits to 6 websites, 200 plus social pages and in 2019 generated nearly
   both iconic global brands and newly emerging talents.     $11 billion sales globally. These impressive statistics along with a highly engaged and
   Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth     loyal shopping community have led QVC to become one of the most sought-after
  strategies and business development is combined with
                                                             networks for a beauty brand. Around the world, TV Shopping has grown rapidly with
       an inspirational and forward-thinking approach.
                                                             new channels emerging as well as an expanded digital footprint with e-commerce
Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the
                                                             sites, smartphone apps and social media.
 industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market
     reach on an international scale, elevate their brand
           presence and improve their performance.           The Evolution of TV Shopping
   To her clients, she is more than a consultant, she is a   The rise of the online retail market has directly impacted the TV Shopping offering.
    trusted asset, advisor, partner and brand guardian.      Abi Cleeve, Founder of skinSense and CEO Graphters Distribution has worked in TV
     Valérie ’s expertise in brand evaluation, acquisition   Shopping for over two decades and has experienced first-hand these changes with
       due diligence, risk assessment and commercial         her market-leading representation of Ultrasun and the highly successful launch of
             growth is particularly highly valued by         her own brand skinSense four years ago.
              Private Equity Funds, multi-national
             organizations and financial investors.
                                                                                                       “Consumers have come to expect an
     Her advanced qualifications and her proficiency in
   corporate governance have made her a much-desired
                                                                                                       efficient, intuitive shopping experience
        Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director to                                                    from all of their favourite retailers, not just
 well-established companies and pioneering Indie brands.                                               the likes of Amazon. Teleshopping retailers
     Valérie is also dedicated to passing her knowledge                                                have had to adapt their approach, as waiting
      along through a range of conferences and events.                                                 to place an order over the phone with a call
       She has been a guest speaker at the non-profit                                                  centre may not be the way the customer
            organization CEW’ Mentoring Services                                                       wishes to order. Customers are now able
           where leading executives offer guidance
                                                                                                       to watch a live presentation, but make their
            and professional development support.
                                                                                                       purchase with a single click or the swipe
     As the International Manufacturers & Distributors
                                                                                                       of an app. Many things are still the same,
Forum (IMF) Master of Ceremony, Valérie organizes this
   influential conference in Europe; it has become a key                                               telling the story, the honesty and integrity
  global gathering for manufacturers, brand owners and                                                 of the environment but with everything in
distributors to come together to discuss the opportunities                                             media, there is more sophistication in the
 and challenges facing the industry and their businesses.                                              way products are presented.”
                                                             Abi Cleeve, Founder of skinSense
R     E     P     O      R     T

The enhanced digital experience extends to the presenters      by GS Home Shopping (21.46%), then Hyundai Home
as many have blogs so that everything you see on TV is         Shopping (18.51%), Lotte Home Shopping (17.73%), NS
supported by a social media campaign. Presenters will be       Home Shopping (8.73%), Home & Shopping (7.29%) and IM
tweeting about going on air, during the shows they use their   Shopping (2.85%). In Korea, there is a different format from
iPads live to demonstrate customer referrals, sometimes        Western counterparts, it is more about entertainment in
there is a live chat with viewers sending in their questions   Korea. It should not only sell the product, but also attract
to be answered on air. Social is now fully integrated into     the viewers to think they are watching entertaining shows.
the overall presentation. The importance of finding new        Hosting a show in collaboration with famous celebrities
ways to engage is not just about sales it is about becoming    including influencers and stylists is regarded as a strong
more appealing to the younger generations. Commerce is         way to build trust. Brands have recently been focusing on
changing into connectivity. In many ways, home shopping        pre-marketing activities before the show to boost sales.
started the change in consumer purchasing behaviour. “An
argument could be made that TV Shopping Channels may
have been the gateway for online adoption in the category
and the impetus for rethinking potential distribution
channels.” Kelly Kovack, Founder & CEO BeautyMatter.
“I think these channels had the foresight to give their
customers what they wanted rather than necessarily
shifting consumers’ attitudes toward beauty. Their viewers
were women and women love beauty.”
                                                               Most of the TV Shopping in Korea targets are in their
                                                               40s and 50s, this means the functional, results-focused
                                                               cosmetics such as anti-wrinkle, lifting, brightening
                                                               products are preferred. Being able to demonstrate a clear
                                                               and immediate effect with the before and after images or
                                                                                         demo is vital and will often lead
                                                                                         to a brand being selected.
                                                                                         Getting it right means quick
                                                                                         results. In February this year,
                                                                                         premium French hair care brand
                                                                                         René Furterer sold about 1.5
                                                                                         billion won in 40 minutes while
                                                                                         Caudalie has a record of selling
                                                                                         1.8 billion won in 40 minutes.
TV Shopping is a global success story, around the world        Caudalie is one of the brands we operated, initially it had
with younger markets such as Korea and Russia growing          zero brand awareness in Korea but after we successfully
at an exceptional pace and new countries like India            launched in home shopping it entered DF and department
are expanding its worldwide reach.                             stores. It has grown into a brand that is known for having
                                                               a good scientific and eco-friendly image, and is actively
An Inside View on Korean TV Shopping                           collaborating with famous singers and artists. More
Ray Um, CEO of Two and Up Inc, is an expert on TV              established names
Shopping distribution and has been instrumental in the         such as Kiehls,
development of European brands success in the Korean           Origins, Shiseido,
market. “Although TV Shopping started in the US, Korea         Caudalie and René
has become one of the biggest home shopping markets in         Furterer work well
the world with a sales volume in 2019 of around 5.7 trillion   as viewers respond
won. Q1 of 2020 shows an ongoing growth with sales of          to being able to
1.3 trillion won, which is an increase of 11% year-on-year.    purchase       these
TV Shopping was introduced into Korea in 1995, the key         recognised brands
players are CJ ENM with 23.45% market share, followed          at a good price.

                                                                                                                              19
R     E     P     O      R     T

     The new indie brands have not demonstrated great results        It is ideal for those where there is a story, a mission and
     so far. Covid-19 has also seen a shift in demographics as       a genuine reason to use the product.” As digital shopping
     more people staying at home has resulted in lowering the        is now a top priority of most beauty brands distribution
     age group of viewers. Sales of make-up has fallen a lot         strategies, alternative channels have increased in both
     while inexpensive skin care products, especially cleansing      relevance and credibility. “Today’s customers are channel-
     ones has increased rapidly. Aesthetic brands that can           agnostic, and the very strict rules that once governed the
     provide personalized care are also catching the eye of the      distribution of beauty brands have been rewritten.” Kelly
     TV shopper as people cannot get to an aesthetic shop or         Kovack, BeautyMatter. “Anywhere people are shopping is
     visit a dermatologist. Like many other markets, mobile          fair game but as with any channel of distribution, brands
     sales have outpaced phone orders and all home shopping          need to do their due diligence.” Doing your research and
     channels are paying attention to mobile and e-commerce          making sure the channel can deliver the sales you require
     as those are getting bigger and bigger. The live commerce       is vital. You have to weigh up the benefit of the informed
     market based on “Untact” (contact-free) is growing rapidly      exposure which will help enhance your brand’s recognition
     in Korea. It is a type of media commerce that sells products    with the costs involved. There is a high standard of
     through live streaming and it is possible to communicate        requirements you must meet as well as an extremely
     in real time. This live commerce market has been gradually      difficult vetting process, choosing the right product,
     becoming a tough competitor of offline shopping.”               developing the proposition and then the all-important on-
                                                                     screen performance. This is the make or break moment
     Multi-Platform Storytelling                                     for any brand as cementing trust and connecting with
     The value that TV Shopping can offer a beauty brand has not     the viewer through the presentation is at the heart of
     always been appreciated or understood. In truth, it does        TV Shopping. One of QVC’s most successful Guest Host
     not work for every brand but for those that it does they can    Presenters is Natalia Ferrara, her understanding of what
     reap rewards in sales both via the network channels and         works and doesn’t work particularly for niche brands
     via the increased awareness their TV exposure generates         has delivered exceptional sales internationally as well as
     on their own e-commerce and other retail stockists. UK          developed their diversification opportunities. Her advice
     brand Elemis is one of those record-breaking success            is “to research your competition, understand your USP’s
     stories, its appearance on a QVC Today Special Value slot       and ensure your brand story and passion as well as the
     sold over 100,000 units in 24hrs plus delivered an online       ‘wow’ factor features and benefits are communicated
     spike and across other outlets. As a brand, Elemis have         naturally and demoed effortlessly.
     mastered the much-desired exclusivity offering as well as
     value pricing that is part of TV Shopping’s DNA.

     As Abi Cleeve, skinSense explains “TV Shopping allows a
     brand to present the experience of using their product to       Natalia Ferrara - QVC Guest Host Presenter

     the consumer. Who is it for? What will it do? How do I use
     it? These can all be addressed in an on-air presentation. It    The best person to do this is either the founder or a chosen
     allows the consumer direct access to the brand, maybe the       brand ambassador. It is very important to establish a
     brand owner, formulator or Head of Training will present        strong relationship with your buyer and communicate
     directly to the end user. With social channels, there is live   regularly about the best proposed TV show airing times,
     interaction so the consumer can ask a direct question and       slots, days and product sku(s) that will be suitable for
     get an immediate response. It allows the consumer to get to     your brand. Finally ensure your brand’s visual assets,
     know the brand and their identity first hand.                   before and afters are strong.”

20
R     E     P     O     R    T

The Buying Perspective                                        Brands with a visual impact that can deliver rich and
The intensity of TV shopping and the hours of content         authentic stories do well not just for the TV but also
needed create an added pressure to the buyers who are         their fast-growing e-commerce which is accelerating
not just responsible for choosing the products but also       demand for new names and new goods. To Anna it is
meeting the margins and the sales targets. Buyers also        important that a brand recognises their responsibilities
now must integrate into their strategy the omnichannel        about partnering with Shopping Live Russa as their
diversification and multiple client contact points.           commitment to their customer means they want to offer
Anna Galochkina, Head of Beauty & Wellness for Shopping       them the best experience in the best possible way.
Live Russia continually looks at the product selection in     The desire to discover something new whilst nurturing,
line with constantly monitoring customer engagement,          authentic emerging brands is the inspiration behind QVC
satisfaction and communication.                               US and HSN’s The Big Find pitch competition
This customer-centric approach is just one of the reasons     for young entrepreneurs which launched in 2019.
why Shopping Live Russia has gone from strength to            Winning gives a young brand a huge opportunity to
strength since launching in 2010. Multi-award winning         gain exposure and receive mentorship, it also highlights
Shopping Live Russia has a reach of over 36 million           this evolving relationship between indie brands and TV
households, its mission is to turn over the traditional       Shopping.
ideas of TV Shopping in Russia via the use of modern
technologies, an advanced quality of service and a hand-
picked selection of products including many European
brands. Beauty and wellness represent the 3rd largest
share of sales, this valued position is in many ways linked
to Anna Galochkina’s focus on “Quality, quality and
quality in everything we do, we are here to provide the
perfect shopping experience for our very loyal clients.
Whether it is helping them discover iconic European
names, or the latest US trendsetter or a wellbeing
brand from Australia our collection needs to offer them
something more, to engage with them and to entertain
them.” Galochkina is currently strengthening up the
wellness offering as well as relooking at the luxury niche
category.

                                                                                                                         21
R     E     P     O     R     T

     The Indie Question with Kelly Kovack, Founder & CEO BeautyMatter

                                             For Indie brands, is TV Shopping a natural fit?
                                             How well will their strong customer engagement
                                             and disruptive character translate with this channel?
                                             What do they need to do to be successful?
                                             Kelly Kovack, adviser, creative strategist and founder of the
                                             go-to consultancy BeautyMatter shares her insight and
                                             forward-thinking expertise on these questions and much more.

                                             Kelly Kovack, Founder & CEO BeautyMatter

     “Taking brand awareness out of the equation, the                   communication strategy. TV shopping’s demographic is
     attributes for success are the same – a good story simply          typically affluent Gen Xers and baby boomers.
     told, a dynamic relatable founder or spokesperson,                 Most Millennials and GenZ don’t own a TV and even during
     demonstrable product and clinical substantiation (or               the pandemic when TV viewership soared Nielsen’s
     before and after images) are the best recipe to succeed            reported continued decline among younger viewers.
     with TV Shopping. TV’s strict regulatory processes often           These generations view content when and where
     water down the typical disruptive qualities of Indie brands        they want – on phones, tablets and laptops streaming
     as every claim must be substantiated and approved by               from Netflix, Hulu, Amazon and YouTube rather than
     the channels’ legal department. On the flip side their             the monopoly of networks or cable. Our era of multi-
     strong social and highly engaged following that can be             screen viewing is changing and creating massive shifts
     activated to support a launch or segment is certainly a            in demand patterns. Because consumers self-identify,
     competitive advantage. Social intercourse creates a buzz           shopping channels can easily track customer engagement
     and helps prime the sell-through of any offer.                     across multiple platforms and content can be completely
     After all, performance is measured on a dollar per minute          synchronized. Shopping networks have made strategic
     basis – success or failure is instantly analysed the moment        moves to adapt to consumer’s preferences for online
     the segment is over. Innovation is at the heart of the             content but have yet to fully realise the opportunity this
     Indie phenomenon, not just with their products but their           connectedness and convergence delivers.

22
R     E     P     O      R     T

They are trying to innovate and evolve with their existing          TV Shopping isn’t right for every brand, to assess the
demographics shifting behaviour but the long-term future            opportunity my recommendation is to deconstruct the
and revenue growth will require unlocking how to attract            formula for success:
the younger consumer. This fact is not lost on them, in 2015        • Storytelling: can you craft a compelling and
HSN and QVC’s parent company acquired Zulily to expand                 differentiated brand and product narrative that can be
their reach to millennial moms and enter new markets                   told simply with rich visuals?
with a younger customer. The vast majority of indie beauty          • Founder: does the brand have a founder or spokesperson
brands today launch with a direct-to-consumer model,                   capable of connecting via the TV shopping format?
this not only helps create demand but is powerful fuel if              This is much harder than it appears.
leveraged strategically to prime the sell-through for TV            • Product: is the product visually demonstrable? Can you
Shopping. However, the big question is does your consumer              show a transformation on-air either live or with before
shop this channel? The demographic for TV Shopping is                  and after photos?
predominantly female, affluent and older. If these are your         • Claims: can you substantiate the claims on product
people and your brand resonates they are very loyal. Last              attributes and brand positioning?
year, roughly 86% of QVC’s shipped sales came from repeat           As an indie brand if you can’t say yes to all these questions
customers who spent an average of $1,281. If a brand’s              then perhaps TV shopping is not the right distribution
core demographic is GenZ and Millennials this is probably           channel. If you look at inspirational indie beauty brands
not the best channel. TV Shopping offers the opportunity            like Leslie Blodgett, founder of Bareminerals and Jamie
to tell their story with an audience of shoppers motivated          Kern founder of IT Cosmetics, these are founders with an
by discovery. Channel hosts are personalities that have             intuitive understanding of the medium and they embodied
earned the trust of their audience, when a consumer is              everything this channel loves. They were authentic,
invested in the story they are more likely to try the product.      passionate and humble – they weren’t on-air versions of
One potential downside is that even a test can represent a          themselves and they didn’t rely on gimmicks – they were
significant investment for a new brand. TV shoppers have            real. These brands launched on QVC when they would have
been trained to expect exclusivity and value, this can be           been considered indie brands and used the channel to fuel
through special sizing, creating a kit etc and this means           growth. Some recent examples that provide insight into
investment must be made in inventory. Another important             what a successful TV Shopping playbook looks like for an
financial consideration is TV shopping channels don’t               indie beauty brand today are Tarte, Beekman 1802, Tacha
hold inventory meaning a brand is shipping the goods on             and Alpyn Beauty. When it comes to the channels, the top
consignment. Analysis of the metrics is instantaneous and           three players in the US are QVC (the holy grail for beauty
there’s not a lot of grey area with this, brands are given a very   brands) with HSN being a close second and ShopHQ being
short runway to prove they are a fit. As with any distribution      a distant third. QVC’s parent company Liberty Interactive
channel or large retailer, approaching a channel means              Corp acquired rival HSN for $2.6 billion in July 2018, there
following the rules of engagement, a specific marketing             really isn’t much competition.”
ecosystem and expectations. TV shopping is not a test and
learn environment, it’s quite mercenary with winners and
losers immediately determined based on the test segment.
There is a lot at stake for the brand and the buying team who
rarely deviate from their success formula. Buyers see A LOT
of brands, products and founders while they hunt for the
next new thing but they are also careful not to cannibalize
existing winners. If a brand doesn’t have experience in the
channel aligning with a partner that specializes in or has
deep knowledge of TV shopping would be a recommended
route. Indie brand founders are a passionate group, they
have to be, starting a beauty brand is hard work. The indie
founder’s passion is the fuel that connects the brand with
the consumer so needs to be focused in the right place, to
listen to advice and play by the rules.

                 For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand,
                 please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk
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