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Supplemento al N. 8/2020 di Export Magazine - Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE
XXXXXX On the cover: From Collistar Research, Attivi Puri, a special formula with Vitamin C COMPANY 4-5 Collistar 7 Acampora Profumi 13 Laurent Mazzone supplemento al N. 8 ANNO XL 12 Noble Isle novemBER-december 2020 BIMONTHLY novembre-dicembre 2020 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE EVENTS GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO 6 Esxence Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano 8-9 Creed – Calé n. 85 del 16/02/1991 10 ADF&PCD and PLD Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% 11 TFWA–Singapore art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: LAUNCH Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) 3 Collistar – Attivi Puri 14 Locherber Skincare Art Director 15 Anine Bong Teresa Tibaldi 16 Jeep Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl 17 Dusita Parfums Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 report Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it 18-23 Beauty & TV Shopping – by V. Kaminov 24 m1nd-set Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Advertisers’ list Consultants Cover-II-1 Collistar Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli - III Cosme Tokyo Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov - Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo - IV Esxence Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni 2
LAUNCH collistar ATTIVI PURI from Collistar Research Pure Actives, known to be Collistar’s bestselling range of targeted solutions for skin requirements, has just launched two new products formulated with Vitamin C: Vitamin C + Alpha-Arbutin, and Vitamin C + Ferulic Acid Cream. Cell oxidation is one of the primary causes of skin aging, and it is caused by quite a few factors such as UV radiation, smoking, a poor diet, pollution, smog etc. Ascorbic Acid, better known as Vitamin C, has an important antioxidant activity. It supports the immune system and protects cell DNA from oxidative stress. In these two products the essential component is Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a stable derivative that boosts its effectiveness. It is gradually released into tissue and has remarkable penetration and biovailability properties. Pure Actives is now enriched with two products The formulas created by Collistar are ideal for It helps keep the skin firm and youthful by stimulating preventing the signs of aging, or when the skin looks collagen synthesis and keeping it working. It is dull, tired and lacking of tones. recommended as a beauty routine complement for With the help of active ingredients selected for their all ages for visible short-term and long-term results. targeted action and for visible results, products allow to revive dull complexions, protect against oxidative VITAMIN C + FERULIC ACID CREAM stress, stimulate collagen and prevent the signs of Vitamin C + Ferulic Acid Cream is ideal for keeping aging, leaving the face brighter. the skin radiant and healthy and to prevent the The gradual release of Vitamin C used in Collistar first sign of aging. The pure Ethyl Ascorbic Acid specialties makes them extremely efficacious and formula is boosted by the addition of Ferulic Acid, suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. a powerful antioxidant and anti-free radical that works in synergy with the Vitamin C, increasing its VITAMIN C + ALPHA-ARBUTIN effectiveness. Day by day the face becomes brighter Vitamin C + Alpha-Arbutin, a drop preparation for and smoother, with a better quality of skin. bright, oxygenated, healthy skin, has been specially formulated with an aqueous base to guarantee The drop and cream formulas are effective on optimum skin hydration levels, to help the molecule their own but are even more powerful when used penetrate the skin properly. together, reaching a 88% antioxidant efficacy. 3
COMPANY Collistar THE SPECIALIST AND LEADER The aim of Collistar, a brand with a 100% Italian history, is to offer its clients quality products, always The well-known focusing on the philosophy and the values that it has always espoused. Collistar is a story of research and Milan-based company passion, creativity and science, which from Milan has won over the whole world. presents a complete A number of Collistar products have become real icons of beauty which for over 30 years have range of highly-advanced accompanied women every day, to reveal their beauty. These products, revolutionary in their time products that really and even today, are the best expression of the alliance between innovation, creativity, passion work to meet all needs and Italianness which has always characterized the Collistar brand. As soon as it is applied, it immediately comforts the driest skins, fades out signs of dehydration and the face immediately takes on greater glow and radiance. An icon since 1985 Hyaluronic Acid In the Pure Actives range, Hyaluronic Acid is Collistar’s best- selling intensive face care product. Its optimal concentration ensures maximum efficacy, with its formula containing three different molecular weights to act on the different layers of the skin. Ideal for Deep Moisturizing Cream all skin types, it contributes to preventing the signs An iconic product beloved by women of all ages, of time and visibly fills in the skin. Applied morning this cream strengthens and protects all skin types and evening before the usual cream, it reinforces and preserves its hydration for up to 72 hours. its treating action by providing the moisturization Its lush and melting texture is now more effective necessary to keep skin smooth and toned. It is than ever thanks to the new formula reinforced with ideal on its own or associated with complementary Idro-Attiva® Complex with a moisturizing action and specific facial care. Italian peony extract, which has antioxidant, detox and regenerating properties. An icon since 2013 4
COMPANY Face Magic Drops In the self-tanning range, Face magic Drops give the skin an even and healthy glow in less than an hour, just like after a day in the open air. This rapid result is thanks to DHA Rapid, an exclusive self-tanning molecule that reduced by half the time necessary to colour skin. The formula also contains Vitamin E and biotech plant extracts with an anti-age moisturizing action to protect the skin and keep it silky-smooth. Suitable for all complexions, it is ideal for a natural- looking radiant and even tan, thanks to its liquid texture which is easy to apply uniformly. Its intensity can be built up: For a tanned effect, only a few drops every two or three days are necessary, for a healthy glow, one or two drops can be missed with the usual day cream before application. An icon since 2007 Anticellulite Cryo-Gel With its new boosted formula, Energizing Talasso-Scrub this gel with an immediate This home treatment, worthy of the best luxury spas, cold effect gives a sensation of combines the power of the sea (thalassotherapy) lightness, in particular on with the benefits of aromatherapy to regenerate the legs, while essential the skin and give the body an immediate sensation oils contribute to a feeling of vigour and well-being. Its formula contains of well-being. an exclusive cocktail of exfoliating sea salts and Plant alpha-hydroxy-acids selected plant oils and hydrating-nourishing have a reinforced lifting essential oils which revitalize the skin, while leaving effect, Centella Asiatica it velvety-soft. Ideal for all skin types, it leaves the neutralizes the loss skin more receptive to subsequent specialized of elasticity and has a care. Used before exposure to the sun and the progressive lifting action. application of self-tanning products, it guarantees Pink pepper and caffeine a more even and longer lasting colour. It can be limit the appearance of used once or twice a week, massaged on to wet mature adipocytes, prevent skin for a gentle gommage or on to dry skin for a the storage of new lipids greater exfoliating effect. and foster the elimination of existing cellulite. Anticellulite An icon since 1999 Cryo-Gel is ideal to fight all types of cellulite, in particular orange peel skin. It is also recommended for heavy and tired legs and/or with signs of fragile thread veins. An icon since 2003 Collistar’s other icons are the Magnifica range for mature skins (since 2007), Mascara Infinito (since 2009) for infinitely long and thick lashes and Bronzing Powder (since 1983) for a healthy glow to perfect every look. 5
EVENTS ESXENCE THE ART PERFUMERY EVENT The twelfth edition of Esxence - The will be possible to follow them on these Art Perfumery Event, the world’s most digital platforms: webinars, round tables important event in the area of niche and lectures featuring some of the most perfumery, is set to take place from 31st authoritative protagonists and experts March to 2nd April 2021 at MiCo, Milano at world level, held in partnership with Convention Centre. The decision has been Essencional, the international study centre taken by the organizing Committee in directed by Silvio Levi. “Esxence is a world order to encourage the attendance of a benchmark event in the field of artistic wide international audience and to launch perfumery, devised and created by a group a new phase for Esxence, enriched with of experts whose involvement in the sector innovative contents and insights, aiming at of niche perfumery cannot be described in a remarkable globalization, while providing terms of mere enthusiasm”, stresses Silvio full safety for our exhibitors and visitors. Levi, President of the Esxence Technical Committee and Director of Essencional. 12th EDITION SET TO TAKE When it comes to education and training, PLACE FROM 31st MARCH the partnership between Esxence and the Milan Polytechnic Department of Design TO 2nd APRIL 2021 Maurizio Cavezzali and Silvio Levi is broadening the scope of its action, supporting and sustaining the practical enthusiasms, experiences and creativity: workshop part of the “Health & Beauty the fair is the irreplaceable culmination for New Generation” course, an innovative, the whole industry.” - comments Maurizio experimental teaching project that guides Cavezzali, CEO of Equipe Exibit. In recent students through a learning experience, months, a large proportion of Esxence taking in artistic perfumery, design and activities has moved online and onto social luxury packaging. During the next edition networks. The event’s official website of Esxence, visitors will be able to take a www.esxence.com now hosts Esxence direct part in these activities and see the Stories, a new communication project prototypes created specifically for the set up to support the exhibitors and give event. Timed to coincide with the event, them a chance to talk about their brands from 31st March to 2nd April 2021, the and present their new products, as well spaces of the MiCo, Milano Convention as a place for debating with experts and Centre will also host the second edition enthusiasts. In parallel, Esxence Meets of the Experience Lab, promoted by the has developed on the social networks as company Experience Me, the appointment “In our work, we are ensuring this twelfth a virtual discussion forum for meeting devoted to niche beauty of excellence. edition to be as special and filled with with the industry’s leading protagonists, innovations as possible, fulfilling our role facilitating an exchange of ideas and of incubator for new trends and launchpad launching a message to the artistic More information for emerging brands. Esxence thrives on perfumery scene. Similarly, some of the human relations and professional bonds appointments in the Esxence calendar is available at: to optimize and facilitate an exchange of of events will be brought forward and it www.esxence.com 6
COMPANY AND THE WINNER IS…YOUNG HEARTS BY ACAMPORA PROFUMI Acampora Profumi is delighted to have been awarded Held over Zoom due to the the “Art and Olfaction Awards 2020” prize in the pandemic, the ceremony Independent Category for its Young Hearts fragrance. organized by the Institute for Art and Olfaction celebrated excellence in independent perfumery, together with all the guests and candidates from the most famous perfume houses all over the world. Young Hearts was created by Acampora Profumi in collaboration with Miguel Matos and belongs to the Acampora 54 Collection. The fragrance has been awarded the “Art and Olfaction Awards 2020” prize in the Independent Category Dewy, fresh, green and peculiar, with a woody and green opening, followed by a Acampora Profumi was founded in 1954 by the Neapolitan cool breeze of leathery saffron. The heart gentleman, Bruno Acampora. The brand has always been lengthens the forest scent of pine with about an immersive sensory experience: its fragrances balsam fir, together with an abstract floral never cease to arouse deep emotions and, for some composition followed by a chypre accord. aspects, provocations. The winning fragrance is an Extrait Young hearts by Acampora Profumi is de Parfum: midway between a Pure Essence and an Eau de confirmed as a fragrance to be discovered. Parfum, it contains a very high concentration of carefully It is also a tribute to the free spirit of diluted aromatic ingredients. This is the purest way of the Maison, a habitué of New York in applying the chosen essence and offers incomparable the period of Pop Art and when in the persistence and intensity. Young Hearts belongs to the legendary Studio 54, the magical notes of Acampora Fifty-Four range, a collection that lets you dance ‘Young Hearts’ was played! with the senses, - and more. It is the energy of music that is released in fragrances that cry out their extravagance. 7
EVENTS A NEW CREED BOUTIQUE IN ROME After Milan, where Calé opened the first Creed As Silvio Levi, CEO of Calé said, “Today we are Boutique outside France in 2014, Rome now has a delighted to celebrate this very long friendship by Creed Boutique of its own. giving to Rome, one of the most beautiful capitals in The Rome address of the prestigious perfumery the world, the second Italian Creed Boutique. brand founded in 1760 by James Creed is 179/A Via A city so full of history could no longer wait for the del Babuino, in the heart of the city and between presence of a Boutique wholly dedicated to a brand Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo. which has helped write the history of perfumery.” The bond between Calé and Creed dates back to The new flagship store in Rome was designed by 1985 when Creed started to conquer the reputation the French architect Can Onaner who, with the it enjoys today. operative support and close collaboration with the architect Domenico Farinaro (Studio C+) who was commissioned by Calé for the Milan Creed Boutique, In collaboration with Calé, translated into the design of the Boutique the dialectic between modernity and tradition dear to the Creed has recently opened Creed family. This result was made possible through the inclusion of architectonic elements which have a boutique in the Eternal City as their model the Austrian architect Adolf Loos. For Loos ancient Rome represented the essence of classic tradition and Can Onaner has reinterpreted in 8
EVENTS The fourth area has the usual stylistic features of Creed – marble columns, plastered beams, a coffered ceiling with brass grilles and mirrors. The journey ends in a private lounge characterized by green velvet and brass walls. The visitor immediately sees the contrast between the impressive marble and the refined shin of the lines in steel, the brass mosaics and mirrors, which become the symbols of a fragile and almost ephemeral balance. As in the Milan Creed Boutique, there is a space dedicated to the history of the Creed brand. a contemporary way some aspects typical of Roman architecture, such as the arch and the vault, for the five areas of the Boutique, each of which has its own atmosphere. The premises, more than 18 metres long and less than 3 metres wide, with irregular walls and floors, at first seemed to present a number of difficulties for the architects, but they actually proved to be the greatest advantages of the project. From the vestibule to the entrance, there is a room with a vaulted ceiling, a marble checkerboard floor and brass mosaic walls with square niches for the display of the brand’s new products. The third room has a vaulted ceiling and the walls are covered with brass grilles which are reflected on mirrored surfaces. The marble element is repeated on the counters and the floor. To celebrate the inauguration of the new Boutique, on 14th October 2020 during the Rome Film Festival, a short film entitled “Essenza” was presented featuring Ana Caterina Morariu and directed by Alessandro Angelini. Thanks to the collaboration of the cinema web magazine The Hot Corn, a number of personalities from Italian cinema were interviewed in the store both during the inauguration and during the week of the Rome Film Festival. 9
EVENTS ADF&PCD and PLD Paris 2021 AnnounCes new June DAtes Easyfairs, organiser of ADF&PCD and Renan Joel, Divisional Director for change the dates of the main event, I am PLD Paris, the world’s leading event for Easyfairs UK & Global’s packaging positive that we will continue to provide perfume, cosmetics and premium drinks events, states: “Exhibitors, visitors and a strong platform for the market to do packaging and aerosol and dispensing association partners have expressed their business in the coming months. “While technology, today announces that the overwhelming support for the change in 2020 has been a very challenging year for event will be postponed from 20 & 21 the dateline and for the crucial role that everyone, and the opportunities for face- January 2021 to 22 & 23 June 2021. ADF&PCD and PLD Paris plays in creating to-face contact have been limited, it has Alongside the change in dates, it has connections and opportunities for given us two very important messages. launched an inspiring new programme of everyone involved in packaging innovation The first is that never before have humans digital and face-to-face activity to continue in those markets.” and businesses craved that opportunity to drive packaging innovation in the The move to June reaffirms the strong to get back together and meet in person, coming months. commitment of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris reasserting the value that events like to supporting and driving packaging ADF&PCD and PLD bring to communities. innovation and business for its French and The other is that we have a great January event postponed international community in a face-to-face environment in Paris, the global capital opportunity to branch out and innovate; and that is what has driven new ideas alongside unveiling of new of the beauty and luxury industries. To that we know will provide added value for activities to drive innovation support this commitment in the coming the community both in the digital and live months, ADF&PCD and PLD Paris is environment. We are very excited about planning a series of new initiatives that what this will bring for 2021. will continue to help packaging specifiers “In the meantime, I would like to thank The decision to move the dates of the to discover the latest packaging products, our many partners among our exhibitors, event has been taken in consultation with connect with key suppliers, learn from visitors, associations and media for their the event’s many stakeholders across the the most influential thought leaders and ongoing support for the event and I look industry in response to the ongoing Force celebrate the industry’s best work. forward to working with them all to deliver Majeure situation and the unforeseeable, In the digital space, an enhanced content a wonderful and unique summer edition unavoidable, unprecedented, global and offering will be rolled out, while a new of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris in 2021.” continuing scope of the Coronavirus. While virtual event is being planned. Easyfairs had put in place an industry- In addition, a small, exclusive event in Paris leading programme of measures to reserved for a select group of top brand More information ensure the safety of visitors and exhibitors owners and suppliers is in development. at the event, the limit of 1,000 participants Joel adds: “ADF&PCD and PLD Paris is is available at: at events imposed by the French known as the place where brands kickstart Government has made it impossible to their innovation projects for the year; www.adfpcdparis.com organise the event on its original dates. so, while we have had no choice but to 10
EVENTS TFWA Asia Pacific Exhibition & Conference to return in 2021 Further details will be announced shortly. Building on its series of webinars, including TFWA China Reborn, TFWA Asia Pacific Exhibition & Conference will present the most up-to-date research, brand news and trade advice to enable industry professionals to grow their business in the key Asia Pacific region, with a particular focus on the fast-growing Chinese market. TFWA’s mission has always been to bring members of the industry together, and the event will also incorporate a refreshed format of the well-established TFWA ONE2ONE meeting service, which offers attendees an invaluable chance to network. The TFWA Asia Pacific Exhibition & Conference, the leading trade event covering the duty free and travel retail developments in Asia Pacific and beyond, will “At this difficult time, it’s more make its return from 9 th to 13th May. The event will important than ever that we combine the best of physical and virtual to offer continue to connect as an more flexibility and convenience to delegates. industry,” said TFWA President Alain Maingreaud. TFWA Asia Pacific Exhibition & Conference presents an unrivalled opportunity to learn about programmes for recovery and gain understanding of a market that remains the most important in our business. But even more essentially, it will provide something that only TFWA events can. That is a globally-respected forum to create and foster the business relationships which will be the life blood of our industry going forward.” More information is available at: www.tfwa.com 11
COMPANY Noble Isle The best phyto extracts and fragrances of the line are the result of careful selection and research: Yorkshire rhubarb, elderflower and gooseberry from Cornwall, Hampshire roses, Irish sea oak, Scottish barley malt BRITAIN IN A BOTTLE and Welsh beets. The fragrances are composed by expert English noses who have been able to create notes capable of evoking a typical British atmosphere in the bathroom. Noble Isle is a company strongly attentive to environmental change and, through its choices, encourages greater awareness of respect for the environment: vegan-friendly, clean and cruelty- free products with completely recyclable packaging, always without SLS or parabens. The brand is in the process of certification by the Vegan Association and the “Leaping Bunny” which guarantees that the products are not tested on animals; it also supports the “Clean Conscience”, an organization that deals with the recycling and reuse of components. The lines Perry Pear is a lively fragrance of ripe fruit and delicate orange blossom, enriched with Gloucestershire cider pear extract. Available in shampoo 250 ml and conditioner 250 ml. Fireside is a fragrance that lights the fireplace of a country inn. The fragrance is available in a bath & shower gel 250ml and a body lotion 250 ml. Rhubarb Rhubarb! Is the humid awakening of dew typical of a spring in Yorkshire. It is available as bath & shower gel 250 ml, body hydrator 250 ml, hand wash 250 ml and hand lotion 250 ml. Summer Rising is an idyllic fragrance that evokes the beginning of summer with invigorating elderflower extracts and antioxidant Cornish gooseberries. It can be enjoyed in the bath & shower gel 250 ml and body This brand celebrates the modern lotion 250 ml. Whisky & Water evokes a quiet evening at sunset in front of a crackling fire, sipping a glass concept of bathroom ritual and body of fine whisky. It is available as bath & shower gel 250 ml, hand wash 250ml and hand lotion 250 ml. care with British inspiration Willow Song is like a romantic walk in the shade of a weeping willow, a floral composition with warm woody aroma. It is available in bath & shower gel Katy Simpson, founder and CEO of the brand, decided 250 ml and body cream 250 ml. Lastly, Tea Rose to combine the finest fragrances with natural extracts has all the elegance and grace of the 5 o’clock tea native to the “Noble Isle”, to pay tribute to Great in London’s grand hotels. It is available as bath & Britain. All the refined ingredients of the products shower gel 250ml, body cream 250ml, hand wash come from famous local producers, so that a small 250 ml and hand lotion 250 ml. piece of Britain is enclosed in every bottle. 12 Noble Isle is distributed in Italy by Aquacosmetics, Milan
company Laurent Mazzone THE BRAND’S NEW AUTUMN FRAGRANCES Similarly, in India, it was believed that its perfume could lead to an oblivion of sentimentality from which it was impossible to escape. In Ayurvedic medicine, tuberose is used to stimulate the right side of the brain, amplifying artistic inspiration and, in particular, the ability to feel emotions and feelings. Laurent’s tuberose goes beyond the known imagination to the roots of this extreme flower. An unconventional combination of the herbaceous notes of galbanum and the hesperidian notes of yuzu that surrender to the imposing Indian tuberose. At its heart, Indian jasmine accentuates the sunny enchantment of this exotic and disturbing flower, while velvety peach and sensual blonde woods caress the skin. This season, two of the brand’s cult fragrances have been remixed to the extreme. The result is effective and very powerful: two extraits de parfum concentrated at 20% and distorted in their characteristics. A new All Laurent Mazzone universe is ready to welcome the lovers of Black Oud and Ultimate Seduction with the most authentic notes creations are inspired by of the LM Parfums signature. In Black Oud Extrême Amber, the oud flows indomitable and powerful like art - and the season’s new fiery lava, whose heat forms a shimmering glass shield that shines and invokes the protection of darkness. fragrances are no exception The inevitable flows like glowing lava. The impact with the inevitable will change its path forever. Prayer becomes prophecy and is transformed into truth. Lost Paradise, an enchanting and inebriating symphony, The amber, so concentrated, burns in an indomitable is inspired by a one-way journey into an intense and fire. It is a fragrance that burns like the passion of a stimulating paradise lost. This new black label extrait fiery love. The top notes are incense and spices, the de parfum takes us directly to the heart of a luxuriant heart notes oud and grey amber and the base notes jungle, the intrinsic heat of which exalts the hypnotic sandalwood, cedar, chives, castoreum and vanilla. scents of its tropical flowers. It is an oasis which Ultimate Seduction Extrême Oud is where it all begins, fascinates and from which there can be no return, a here are the first steps of a ritual that transforms spell that bewitches without leaving any chance. desire into carnal passion. A breath that flees and Radikal Tuberose, the new extrait de parfum by rises higher. But when amber shines it throws the Laurent Mazzone has as its protagonist the most lapilli of fire and when the sky is a chipped mirror sensual and controversial flower in perfumery. then you realize you are on the other side. Beyond the Known for its disturbing properties, the tuberose has limit, passion ignites, everything reflects and burns always embodied the myth of the forbidden flower. to become extreme. The top notes are pink berries, During the Renaissance, girls were forbidden from blackcurrant and orange, the heart notes violet, iris smelling its narcotic perfume because they were too and rose and the base notes patchouli, oud accord, vulnerable to the aphrodisiac power of the fragrance. amber, blond woods, cedar and pralines. Laurent Mazzone is distributed in Italy by Aquacosmetics, Milan 13
LAUNCH Locherber Skincare PRESENTS THE MILKY WAY The textures have been designed to meet the needs both of younger skins, and as a fresher and lighter beauty routine for mature skins. Refined materials have been chosen for the packaging, with a glass jar for the face cream, and the colours evoke the softness and richness of milk, with details in the sophisticated shade of rose gold for a precious and elegant touch. Other products will join the line which has been created to bring into the daily beauty routine the luxury of an experience of very high Swiss quality, but with a completely Italian concept. Milky Way Multifunctional purifying face gel/brightening milk gives maximum comfort during cleansing and is a fresh gel texture which, on contact with water, is transformed into a soft milk that an regenerate and cleanse the skin in depth. Its formula is enriched with extract of ginger root, whilst coffee powder creates a gentle scrub effect. The peptide Vita Genesis White gives brightness and Probiotics like Soy, Ginseng and Rice create a combined action to protect the face from external aggression. Milky Way detox cream/brightening face cream is a mini-treatment that can regenerate the skin, leaving it compact, silky-smooth and moisturized. Its formula contains Meadowfoam Seeds and Shea Butter with together boost hydration, Vitamin B3 which stimulates the production of collagen and The new beauty ritual to brighten Vita Genesis White to brighten the complexion. Soy, Ginseng and Rice, together with White Tea, create a and protect the face natural barrier against external agents. Milky Way by Locherber Skincare is the new beauty routine in facial care developed to purify, moisturize and brighten the skin. The line is made up of two products which act in synergy: the Multifunction Purifying Face Gel/Brightening Milk and the Detox- Brightening Face Cream. The line was inspired by the light of the Milky Way which fascinated Brigitte Baerlocher, head of Marketing and Communication of Cosval Group as a child and who wanted to create a line that enclosed all the essence of this universe. 14
LAUNCH ANINE BING new Eau de Parfum & Candle, Pure Noir Pure Noir represents the alliance of softness and strength. Laced with mystery, it explores the union of black baccarat rose, papyrus, and spicy saffron faceted with dark notes of guaiac wood and mahogany. Anine, Founder and Chief Creative Officer, wanted to create a follow-up to her first fragrance Savage Rose that felt different. Something deep and sensual, yet feminine and versatile enough for everyday wear. Pure Noir is wrapped in notes of unpredictability. It embodies the energy of the unapologetic modern woman, who is bold in spirit and assertively feminine. “Pure Noir is such a personal scent. It reminds me of my travels to all of my favorite cities around the world, staying at cozy boutique hotels, exploring new neighborhoods. It embodies the spirit of Copenhagen and Paris, which is rich with possibility. Pure Noir is a mysterious fragrance. When I wear it I feel independent, strong and feminine.” – Anine Bing, Founder and Chief Creative Officer. Pure Noir Eau de Parfum and Candle launches on October 15th, available exclusively online and in-store at ANINE BING. ANINE BING is a Los Angeles based fashion brand started in by a loyal social-media following and the drive to offer an 2012 by Anine Bing, Founder and Chief Creative Officer, and exceptional customer-service experience teamed with a Nicolai Bing, Founder and Chief Executive Officer. Inspired modern approach to immediate fulfilment of merchandise. by Scandinavian simplicity and American energy, Bing’s Is sold by more than 350 retailers globally. With retail stores goal was to build a brand focused on everyday wardrobe found in major cities worldwide including Los Angeles, New essentials and investment pieces for modern women York, San Francisco, Miami, Paris, London, Barcelona, Madrid, seeking a timeless yet rebellious approach to style. Powered Sydney, Hamburg and Berlin – with more coming soon. 15
LAUNCH DIAMOND INTERNATIONAL: A NEW COLLABORATION WITH THE JEEP BRAND ® experience through the 7 slot grille, the iconic symbol of the Jeep brand. Freedom reveals all the personality of the man who chooses this Jeep fragrance; intense, exciting, determined and energetic. Jeep’s Freedom brings with it the fascination of the unexplored, the emotions of the surprise and the energy of feeling without limits. It is a modern reinterpretation of fougère, the moist classic of the masculine olfactory families, It moves on contrasts of aromatic and woody, intense and delicate notes, which start from the freshness of Bergamot warmed by an intense Resin which opens the way for the surprising spiciness Freedom and Adventure are the names of the two of Sichuan Pepper, mixed with the classic Geranium. lines of fragrances for men that seal the licensing The olfactory composition closes with the woody and agreement between Diamond International – part of spicy notes of Vetiver and Patchouli reinforced by the the So.Di.Co group – and FCA Group LLC. These two animal and wild mood of Amber Gris. names reflect the values and the DNA of the Jeep® brand: freedom, authenticity, adventure and passion. Two lines of fragrances They find their perfect expression in two new lines of fragrance with a bold and intense character, made for men seal the licensing up of three references: Eau de Toilette, Shower Gel and Deodorant Spray. The packaging expresses and agreement outlines the free, ambitious, determined and sober virility of the Jeep man: clear and strong lines that Adventure, the Jeep fragrance conceived for a man represent new limits to overcome, new emotions to free from conventions, determined and in search of places where he can be himself, is real praise for a passion for adventure and breathless emotions. Aromatic, woody and seductively floral, the olfactory composition reveals a strong character, a spirit that always decides its own destiny. It is a strong, bold and voluptuous fragrance, that expresses energy without ever raising the olfactory tones, following the harmony of refinement that is expressed in total discretion. It explodes like an enveloping fusion of the aromatic and fresh notes of Mint, Grapefruit and Pepper, amalgamated with the sweetness of Rose and the spicy touch of Nutmeg, with the velvety and soft bed of Vetiver and the very classic Incense and Oak Moss. 16
LAUNCH The northern Thailand city inspires this woody and aromatic fragrance MOONLIGHT IN CHIANGMAI the new creation by DUSITA PARFUMS The brand new fragrance by Dusita Parfums has scenery, and wanted to transmit this magical feeling been inspired by Chiangmai, the city in northern to others, I depicted the soft moonlight and desired Thailand famous for its stunning temples, such as nocturnal mood blending the unique energy of Doi Suthep, and the famous paper lantern festival. exotic Japanese Yuzu with the floral opulence of Playing with the contrast between light and shadow, night-blooming Indian Jasmine, as well as my own, Moonlight in Chiangmai paints in olfactory terms exclusive Teak Wood accord that lovingly evokes my a wonderful scene of the city at night, lit by the homeland, Thailand.” moonlight and the paper lanterns floating in the sky. The opening has the energetic citrus freshness of The atmosphere in Chiangmai is jovial and serene, Japanese Yuzu combined with the floral opulence between heaven and earth. of night-blooming Jasmine. At the heart of the The fragrance portrays a moment of silence and fragrance, the warm spices of Indian Nutmeg are contemplation, looking over the city of Chiangmai blended with the vanilla-nuanced sweetness of from above. The moon is full and the moonlight Benzoin Siam to build up a wonderfully dense heart. encounters the floodlights that illuminate the The base notes, a resinous touch of Myrrh is famous gilded Chedi and the Royal umbrellas in a beautifully wrapped in the woody tones of Patchouli merging embrace of lights. Indonesia, Vetiver Haiti and Thai Teak Wood in Pissara Umavijani, founder of Dusita Parfums and a comfortable, long-lasting embrace. Moonlight the brand’s in-house perfumer, confides that she in Chiangmai celebrates the understanding and chose her palette of materials just like a painter, tolerance that are essential to building meaningful “I could feel myself again in that wonderful night connections among people in modern times. www.parfumsdusita.com 17
R E P O R T beauty & TV Shopping: A Global VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Success Story The phenomenon that is TV Shopping has taken the cosmetics industry by storm, Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director today many home shopping networks are regarded as the beauty destinations to of the highly successful International Luxury watch. From big name brands to those more under the radar, TV Shopping beauty Brand Consultancy based in London. buyers are cleverly creating collections for millions of customers. For over 20 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, When you look at the numbers you understand the power of these channels. Take premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. QVC, it reaches over 370 million homes in the US, UK and Ireland, Germany, Austria, Her extensive expertise, commercial acumen Japan, Italy, France and with a joint venture in China. It has 14 television networks, 1 and practical experience are much sought after by billion plus visits to 6 websites, 200 plus social pages and in 2019 generated nearly both iconic global brands and newly emerging talents. $11 billion sales globally. These impressive statistics along with a highly engaged and Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth loyal shopping community have led QVC to become one of the most sought-after strategies and business development is combined with networks for a beauty brand. Around the world, TV Shopping has grown rapidly with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach. new channels emerging as well as an expanded digital footprint with e-commerce Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the sites, smartphone apps and social media. industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach on an international scale, elevate their brand presence and improve their performance. The Evolution of TV Shopping To her clients, she is more than a consultant, she is a The rise of the online retail market has directly impacted the TV Shopping offering. trusted asset, advisor, partner and brand guardian. Abi Cleeve, Founder of skinSense and CEO Graphters Distribution has worked in TV Valérie ’s expertise in brand evaluation, acquisition Shopping for over two decades and has experienced first-hand these changes with due diligence, risk assessment and commercial her market-leading representation of Ultrasun and the highly successful launch of growth is particularly highly valued by her own brand skinSense four years ago. Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. “Consumers have come to expect an Her advanced qualifications and her proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired efficient, intuitive shopping experience Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director to from all of their favourite retailers, not just well-established companies and pioneering Indie brands. the likes of Amazon. Teleshopping retailers Valérie is also dedicated to passing her knowledge have had to adapt their approach, as waiting along through a range of conferences and events. to place an order over the phone with a call She has been a guest speaker at the non-profit centre may not be the way the customer organization CEW’ Mentoring Services wishes to order. Customers are now able where leading executives offer guidance to watch a live presentation, but make their and professional development support. purchase with a single click or the swipe As the International Manufacturers & Distributors of an app. Many things are still the same, Forum (IMF) Master of Ceremony, Valérie organizes this influential conference in Europe; it has become a key telling the story, the honesty and integrity global gathering for manufacturers, brand owners and of the environment but with everything in distributors to come together to discuss the opportunities media, there is more sophistication in the and challenges facing the industry and their businesses. way products are presented.” Abi Cleeve, Founder of skinSense
R E P O R T The enhanced digital experience extends to the presenters by GS Home Shopping (21.46%), then Hyundai Home as many have blogs so that everything you see on TV is Shopping (18.51%), Lotte Home Shopping (17.73%), NS supported by a social media campaign. Presenters will be Home Shopping (8.73%), Home & Shopping (7.29%) and IM tweeting about going on air, during the shows they use their Shopping (2.85%). In Korea, there is a different format from iPads live to demonstrate customer referrals, sometimes Western counterparts, it is more about entertainment in there is a live chat with viewers sending in their questions Korea. It should not only sell the product, but also attract to be answered on air. Social is now fully integrated into the viewers to think they are watching entertaining shows. the overall presentation. The importance of finding new Hosting a show in collaboration with famous celebrities ways to engage is not just about sales it is about becoming including influencers and stylists is regarded as a strong more appealing to the younger generations. Commerce is way to build trust. Brands have recently been focusing on changing into connectivity. In many ways, home shopping pre-marketing activities before the show to boost sales. started the change in consumer purchasing behaviour. “An argument could be made that TV Shopping Channels may have been the gateway for online adoption in the category and the impetus for rethinking potential distribution channels.” Kelly Kovack, Founder & CEO BeautyMatter. “I think these channels had the foresight to give their customers what they wanted rather than necessarily shifting consumers’ attitudes toward beauty. Their viewers were women and women love beauty.” Most of the TV Shopping in Korea targets are in their 40s and 50s, this means the functional, results-focused cosmetics such as anti-wrinkle, lifting, brightening products are preferred. Being able to demonstrate a clear and immediate effect with the before and after images or demo is vital and will often lead to a brand being selected. Getting it right means quick results. In February this year, premium French hair care brand René Furterer sold about 1.5 billion won in 40 minutes while Caudalie has a record of selling 1.8 billion won in 40 minutes. TV Shopping is a global success story, around the world Caudalie is one of the brands we operated, initially it had with younger markets such as Korea and Russia growing zero brand awareness in Korea but after we successfully at an exceptional pace and new countries like India launched in home shopping it entered DF and department are expanding its worldwide reach. stores. It has grown into a brand that is known for having a good scientific and eco-friendly image, and is actively An Inside View on Korean TV Shopping collaborating with famous singers and artists. More Ray Um, CEO of Two and Up Inc, is an expert on TV established names Shopping distribution and has been instrumental in the such as Kiehls, development of European brands success in the Korean Origins, Shiseido, market. “Although TV Shopping started in the US, Korea Caudalie and René has become one of the biggest home shopping markets in Furterer work well the world with a sales volume in 2019 of around 5.7 trillion as viewers respond won. Q1 of 2020 shows an ongoing growth with sales of to being able to 1.3 trillion won, which is an increase of 11% year-on-year. purchase these TV Shopping was introduced into Korea in 1995, the key recognised brands players are CJ ENM with 23.45% market share, followed at a good price. 19
R E P O R T The new indie brands have not demonstrated great results It is ideal for those where there is a story, a mission and so far. Covid-19 has also seen a shift in demographics as a genuine reason to use the product.” As digital shopping more people staying at home has resulted in lowering the is now a top priority of most beauty brands distribution age group of viewers. Sales of make-up has fallen a lot strategies, alternative channels have increased in both while inexpensive skin care products, especially cleansing relevance and credibility. “Today’s customers are channel- ones has increased rapidly. Aesthetic brands that can agnostic, and the very strict rules that once governed the provide personalized care are also catching the eye of the distribution of beauty brands have been rewritten.” Kelly TV shopper as people cannot get to an aesthetic shop or Kovack, BeautyMatter. “Anywhere people are shopping is visit a dermatologist. Like many other markets, mobile fair game but as with any channel of distribution, brands sales have outpaced phone orders and all home shopping need to do their due diligence.” Doing your research and channels are paying attention to mobile and e-commerce making sure the channel can deliver the sales you require as those are getting bigger and bigger. The live commerce is vital. You have to weigh up the benefit of the informed market based on “Untact” (contact-free) is growing rapidly exposure which will help enhance your brand’s recognition in Korea. It is a type of media commerce that sells products with the costs involved. There is a high standard of through live streaming and it is possible to communicate requirements you must meet as well as an extremely in real time. This live commerce market has been gradually difficult vetting process, choosing the right product, becoming a tough competitor of offline shopping.” developing the proposition and then the all-important on- screen performance. This is the make or break moment Multi-Platform Storytelling for any brand as cementing trust and connecting with The value that TV Shopping can offer a beauty brand has not the viewer through the presentation is at the heart of always been appreciated or understood. In truth, it does TV Shopping. One of QVC’s most successful Guest Host not work for every brand but for those that it does they can Presenters is Natalia Ferrara, her understanding of what reap rewards in sales both via the network channels and works and doesn’t work particularly for niche brands via the increased awareness their TV exposure generates has delivered exceptional sales internationally as well as on their own e-commerce and other retail stockists. UK developed their diversification opportunities. Her advice brand Elemis is one of those record-breaking success is “to research your competition, understand your USP’s stories, its appearance on a QVC Today Special Value slot and ensure your brand story and passion as well as the sold over 100,000 units in 24hrs plus delivered an online ‘wow’ factor features and benefits are communicated spike and across other outlets. As a brand, Elemis have naturally and demoed effortlessly. mastered the much-desired exclusivity offering as well as value pricing that is part of TV Shopping’s DNA. As Abi Cleeve, skinSense explains “TV Shopping allows a brand to present the experience of using their product to Natalia Ferrara - QVC Guest Host Presenter the consumer. Who is it for? What will it do? How do I use it? These can all be addressed in an on-air presentation. It The best person to do this is either the founder or a chosen allows the consumer direct access to the brand, maybe the brand ambassador. It is very important to establish a brand owner, formulator or Head of Training will present strong relationship with your buyer and communicate directly to the end user. With social channels, there is live regularly about the best proposed TV show airing times, interaction so the consumer can ask a direct question and slots, days and product sku(s) that will be suitable for get an immediate response. It allows the consumer to get to your brand. Finally ensure your brand’s visual assets, know the brand and their identity first hand. before and afters are strong.” 20
R E P O R T The Buying Perspective Brands with a visual impact that can deliver rich and The intensity of TV shopping and the hours of content authentic stories do well not just for the TV but also needed create an added pressure to the buyers who are their fast-growing e-commerce which is accelerating not just responsible for choosing the products but also demand for new names and new goods. To Anna it is meeting the margins and the sales targets. Buyers also important that a brand recognises their responsibilities now must integrate into their strategy the omnichannel about partnering with Shopping Live Russa as their diversification and multiple client contact points. commitment to their customer means they want to offer Anna Galochkina, Head of Beauty & Wellness for Shopping them the best experience in the best possible way. Live Russia continually looks at the product selection in The desire to discover something new whilst nurturing, line with constantly monitoring customer engagement, authentic emerging brands is the inspiration behind QVC satisfaction and communication. US and HSN’s The Big Find pitch competition This customer-centric approach is just one of the reasons for young entrepreneurs which launched in 2019. why Shopping Live Russia has gone from strength to Winning gives a young brand a huge opportunity to strength since launching in 2010. Multi-award winning gain exposure and receive mentorship, it also highlights Shopping Live Russia has a reach of over 36 million this evolving relationship between indie brands and TV households, its mission is to turn over the traditional Shopping. ideas of TV Shopping in Russia via the use of modern technologies, an advanced quality of service and a hand- picked selection of products including many European brands. Beauty and wellness represent the 3rd largest share of sales, this valued position is in many ways linked to Anna Galochkina’s focus on “Quality, quality and quality in everything we do, we are here to provide the perfect shopping experience for our very loyal clients. Whether it is helping them discover iconic European names, or the latest US trendsetter or a wellbeing brand from Australia our collection needs to offer them something more, to engage with them and to entertain them.” Galochkina is currently strengthening up the wellness offering as well as relooking at the luxury niche category. 21
R E P O R T The Indie Question with Kelly Kovack, Founder & CEO BeautyMatter For Indie brands, is TV Shopping a natural fit? How well will their strong customer engagement and disruptive character translate with this channel? What do they need to do to be successful? Kelly Kovack, adviser, creative strategist and founder of the go-to consultancy BeautyMatter shares her insight and forward-thinking expertise on these questions and much more. Kelly Kovack, Founder & CEO BeautyMatter “Taking brand awareness out of the equation, the communication strategy. TV shopping’s demographic is attributes for success are the same – a good story simply typically affluent Gen Xers and baby boomers. told, a dynamic relatable founder or spokesperson, Most Millennials and GenZ don’t own a TV and even during demonstrable product and clinical substantiation (or the pandemic when TV viewership soared Nielsen’s before and after images) are the best recipe to succeed reported continued decline among younger viewers. with TV Shopping. TV’s strict regulatory processes often These generations view content when and where water down the typical disruptive qualities of Indie brands they want – on phones, tablets and laptops streaming as every claim must be substantiated and approved by from Netflix, Hulu, Amazon and YouTube rather than the channels’ legal department. On the flip side their the monopoly of networks or cable. Our era of multi- strong social and highly engaged following that can be screen viewing is changing and creating massive shifts activated to support a launch or segment is certainly a in demand patterns. Because consumers self-identify, competitive advantage. Social intercourse creates a buzz shopping channels can easily track customer engagement and helps prime the sell-through of any offer. across multiple platforms and content can be completely After all, performance is measured on a dollar per minute synchronized. Shopping networks have made strategic basis – success or failure is instantly analysed the moment moves to adapt to consumer’s preferences for online the segment is over. Innovation is at the heart of the content but have yet to fully realise the opportunity this Indie phenomenon, not just with their products but their connectedness and convergence delivers. 22
R E P O R T They are trying to innovate and evolve with their existing TV Shopping isn’t right for every brand, to assess the demographics shifting behaviour but the long-term future opportunity my recommendation is to deconstruct the and revenue growth will require unlocking how to attract formula for success: the younger consumer. This fact is not lost on them, in 2015 • Storytelling: can you craft a compelling and HSN and QVC’s parent company acquired Zulily to expand differentiated brand and product narrative that can be their reach to millennial moms and enter new markets told simply with rich visuals? with a younger customer. The vast majority of indie beauty • Founder: does the brand have a founder or spokesperson brands today launch with a direct-to-consumer model, capable of connecting via the TV shopping format? this not only helps create demand but is powerful fuel if This is much harder than it appears. leveraged strategically to prime the sell-through for TV • Product: is the product visually demonstrable? Can you Shopping. However, the big question is does your consumer show a transformation on-air either live or with before shop this channel? The demographic for TV Shopping is and after photos? predominantly female, affluent and older. If these are your • Claims: can you substantiate the claims on product people and your brand resonates they are very loyal. Last attributes and brand positioning? year, roughly 86% of QVC’s shipped sales came from repeat As an indie brand if you can’t say yes to all these questions customers who spent an average of $1,281. If a brand’s then perhaps TV shopping is not the right distribution core demographic is GenZ and Millennials this is probably channel. If you look at inspirational indie beauty brands not the best channel. TV Shopping offers the opportunity like Leslie Blodgett, founder of Bareminerals and Jamie to tell their story with an audience of shoppers motivated Kern founder of IT Cosmetics, these are founders with an by discovery. Channel hosts are personalities that have intuitive understanding of the medium and they embodied earned the trust of their audience, when a consumer is everything this channel loves. They were authentic, invested in the story they are more likely to try the product. passionate and humble – they weren’t on-air versions of One potential downside is that even a test can represent a themselves and they didn’t rely on gimmicks – they were significant investment for a new brand. TV shoppers have real. These brands launched on QVC when they would have been trained to expect exclusivity and value, this can be been considered indie brands and used the channel to fuel through special sizing, creating a kit etc and this means growth. Some recent examples that provide insight into investment must be made in inventory. Another important what a successful TV Shopping playbook looks like for an financial consideration is TV shopping channels don’t indie beauty brand today are Tarte, Beekman 1802, Tacha hold inventory meaning a brand is shipping the goods on and Alpyn Beauty. When it comes to the channels, the top consignment. Analysis of the metrics is instantaneous and three players in the US are QVC (the holy grail for beauty there’s not a lot of grey area with this, brands are given a very brands) with HSN being a close second and ShopHQ being short runway to prove they are a fit. As with any distribution a distant third. QVC’s parent company Liberty Interactive channel or large retailer, approaching a channel means Corp acquired rival HSN for $2.6 billion in July 2018, there following the rules of engagement, a specific marketing really isn’t much competition.” ecosystem and expectations. TV shopping is not a test and learn environment, it’s quite mercenary with winners and losers immediately determined based on the test segment. There is a lot at stake for the brand and the buying team who rarely deviate from their success formula. Buyers see A LOT of brands, products and founders while they hunt for the next new thing but they are also careful not to cannibalize existing winners. If a brand doesn’t have experience in the channel aligning with a partner that specializes in or has deep knowledge of TV shopping would be a recommended route. Indie brand founders are a passionate group, they have to be, starting a beauty brand is hard work. The indie founder’s passion is the fuel that connects the brand with the consumer so needs to be focused in the right place, to listen to advice and play by the rules. For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk
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