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03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 6
1
The Best of Florida
A lthough it’s the state motto, describing Florida as just The Sunshine State is
like calling Katie Couric “perky”. Sure, it’s true, but not all the time—and it
doesn’t nearly begin to describe the state’s other marketable assets. There’s a lot
more to the state than just sunshine—which, by the way, isn’t even a 24/7 given;
it does rain here. Weather aside, choosing the best of Florida is by no means sim-
ple. While millions of visitors flock to Florida to escape the bleakness of winter
and being landlocked, they don’t all come down just for sun, fun, and Mickey
Mouse. Sure, the promise of (mostly) clear skies and 800 miles of sparkling,
sandy beaches is alluring, as are the animatronics and roller coasters in Orlando
and Tampa, but there’s much more to the state than that. In fact, in many ways,
Florida is like a beautiful, blonde beauty queen who everyone thinks is all fluff
until they find out she also happens to be a Rhodes scholar. Okay, so we’re not
saying that Florida is brilliant, per se, but what we are saying is that there’s more
than meets the eye that makes this one of the country’s most popular year-round
vacation destinations.
Here you can choose from a colorful, often kitschy assortment of accommo-
dations, from deluxe resorts to mom-and-pop motels. You can visit remote little
towns like Apalachicola or a multicultural megalopolis like Miami. Devour fresh
seafood, from amberjack to oysters—and then work off those calories in such
outdoor pursuits as bicycling, golfing, or kayaking. Despite overdevelopment in
many parts of the state, Floridians have maintained thousands of acres of wilder-
ness areas, from the little respite of Clam Pass County Park in downtown Naples
to the magnificent Everglades National Park, which stretches across the state’s
southern tip.
Choosing the “best” of all this is a daunting task, and the selections in this
chapter are only a rundown of some of the highlights. You’ll find numerous
other outstanding resorts, hotels, destinations, activities, and attractions
described in the pages of this book. With an open mind and sense of adventure,
you should be able to come up with some bests of your own.
1 The Best Beaches
• Virginia Key (Key Biscayne): The the tidal action of the adjacent Bis-
producers of Survivor could feasi- cayne Bay. Surrounded by the bay’s
bly shoot their show on this ultra- warm, calm waters, the beach’s
secluded, picturesque, and deserted backdrop is a tropical hardwood
key, where people go purposely not forest. See p. 154.
to be found. See p. 154. • Lummus Park Beach (South
• Matheson Hammock Park Beach Beach) is world renowned, not
(South Miami): This serene beach necessarily for its pristine sands,
features an enclosed, man-made but for its more common name of
lagoon that is flushed naturally by South Beach, on which seeing,03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 7
THE BEST BEACHES 7
being seen, and, at times, the few miles south of busy Fort
obscene, go hand in hand with the Myers Beach. Although Sanibel
sunscreen and beach towels. The Island gets all the accolades, the
12th Street section of this beach is shelling here is just as good, if not
the beach of choice for gay resi- better. See p. 373.
dents and travelers who come to • Cayo Costa State Park (off Cap-
show off just how much time tiva Island): These days, deserted
they’ve spent in the gym and, of tropical islands with great beaches
course, catch up on the latest gos- are scarce in Florida, but this
sip and upcoming must-attend 2,132-acre barrier strip of sand,
parties and events. Oftentimes, pine forests, mangrove swamps,
this beach is the venue for some of oak hammocks, and grasslands
the liveliest parties South Beach provides a genuine get-away-from-
has ever seen. See p. 152. it-all experience. Access is only by
• Haulover Beach (Miami Beach), boat from nearby Gasparilla, Pine,
nestled between the Intracoastal and Captiva islands. See p. 397.
Waterway and the ocean, espe- • Naples Beach (Naples): Many
cially at the north end, is the place Florida cities and towns have
to be for that all-over tan: beaches, but few are as lovely as
Haulover is the city’s only cloth- the gorgeous strip that runs in
ing-optional—aka nude—beach. front of Naples’ famous Million-
See p. 154. aires’ Row. You don’t have to be
• Crandon Park Beach (Miami) is rich to wander its length, peer at
extremely popular for families the mansions, and stroll on his-
with kids because of the shallow toric Naples Pier to catch a sunset
water created by a neighboring over the Gulf. See p. 400.
sandbar. Convenient parking, pic- • Caladesi Island State Park
nic areas, a winding boardwalk, (Clearwater Beach): Even though
and a multiethnic mix of families 31⁄ 2-mile-long Caladesi Island is in
grilling, dancing, and relaxing the heavily developed Tampa Bay
are the benchmarks of this beach. area, it has a lovely, relatively
See p. 152. secluded beach with soft sand
• Bahia Honda State Park (Bahia edged in sea grass and palmettos.
Honda Key): One of the nicest and Dolphins cavort in offshore
most peaceful beaches in Florida, waters. In the park itself, there’s a
located amidst 635 acres of nature nature trail, and you might see
trails and even a portion of Henry one of the rattlesnakes, black rac-
Flagler’s railroad. See p. 225. ers, raccoons, armadillos, or rab-
• John U. Lloyd Beach State Park bits that live here. The park is
(Dania Beach): Unfettered by accessible only by ferry from Hon-
high-rise condominiums, T-shirt eymoon Island State Recreation
shops, and hotels, this wonderful Area off Dunedin. See p. 457.
beach boasts an untouched shore- • Canaveral National Seashore
line surrounded by a canopy of (Cape Canaveral): Midway
Australian pine to ensure com- between the crowded attractions
plete seclusion. See p. 283. at Daytona Beach and the
• Lover’s Key State Park (Fort Kennedy Space Center is a pro-
Myers Beach): You’ll have to walk tected stretch of coastline 24 miles
or take a tram through a bird- long, backed by cabbage palms,
filled forest of mangroves to this sea grapes, and palmettos. Its
gorgeous, unspoiled beach just a neighbor is the 140,000-acre03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 8
8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA
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THE BEST BEACHES 9
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10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA
Merritt Island National Wildlife snowy plovers, black skimmers,
Refuge, home to hundreds of and other birds nest along the
Florida birds, reptiles, alligators, dunes topped with sea oats. East of
and mammals. Wooden board- the national seashore and equally
walks lead from a free parking lot beautiful are Grayton Beach State
to the huge expanse of soft brown Park near Destin and St. George
sand and a few well-spaced picnic Island State Park off Apalachicola.
tables. See p. 551. See p. 614.
• Gulf Islands National Seashore • St. Andrews State Park (Panama
(Pensacola): You could argue that City Beach): With more than
all of Northwest Florida’s Gulf 1,000 acres of dazzling white sand
shore is one of America’s great and dunes, this preserved wilder-
beaches—an almost-uninterrupted ness demonstrates what Panama
stretch of pure white sand that City Beach looked like before
runs the entire length of the Pan- motels and condominiums lined
handle, from Perdido Key to St. its shore, with lacy, golden sea oats
George Island. The Gulf Islands swaying in Gulf breezes and fra-
National Seashore preserves much grant rosemary growing wild. The
of this natural wonder in its unde- area is also home to foxes, coyotes,
veloped state. Countless terns, and a herd of deer. See p. 642.
2 The Best Snorkeling
• John Pennekamp Coral Reef • Hutchinson Island: Three popu-
State Park (Key Largo): This is lar artificial reefs off this island
the country’s first undersea pre- provide excellent scenery for divers
serve, with 188 square miles of of any level. The USS Rankin,
protected coral reefs. The water sunk in 120 feet of water in 1988,
throughout much of the park is lies 7 miles east-northeast of the
shallow, so it’s an especially great St. Lucie Inlet. The 58-foot-deep
place for snorkelers to see an Donaldson Reef, located due east
incredibly vibrant array of coral, of the Gilbert’s House of Refuge
including tree-sized elkhorn coral Museum, consists of a cluster of
and giant brain coral. See p. 220. plumbing fixtures sunk in 58 feet
• Looe Key National Marine of water. The Ernst Reef, made
Sanctuary (Bahia Honda State from old tires, is a 60-foot dive
Park): With 51⁄ 3 square miles of located 41⁄ 2 miles east-southeast of
gorgeous coral reef, rock ledges up the St. Lucie inlet. Local dive
to 35 feet tall, and a colorful and shops have “tips” on the best spots,
motley marine community, you and rules and regulations for safe
may never want to come up for diving. See p. 342.
air. See p. 228.
3 The Best Fishing
• The Keys: The Keys boast some tarpon, and other “stalking” fish.
world-class deep-sea fishing; the Dozens of charter-fishing boats
prize is such big-game fish as mar- operate from Key West marinas
lin, sailfish, and tuna. There’s reef and from other less-popular keys.
fishing as well, for “eating fish” Islamorada, in the Upper Keys, is
like snapper and grouper, and the sport-fishing capital of the
backcountry fishing for bonefish, world. Anglers compete for trophy03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 11
THE BEST GOLF COURSES 11
sailfish, marlin, wahoo, and king- angler’s haven. The fish bite year-
fish at many annual big-money round, but peak months are
tournaments. Seven-Mile Bridge, December through March and
linking the Middle and Lower June through July. Sailfishing is an
Keys, is known as “the longest fish- art of its own—beginners need to
ing bridge in the world”; it’s also a learn to feel that exact moment to
favorite spot for local fishers who let the reel drag so that the fish
wait for barracuda, yellowtail, and run with the lure. See p. 341.
dolphin to bite. See p. 214. • Boca Grande: The deep, shadowy
• Lake Okeechobee: Many visitors holes of Boca Grande Pass, between
to the Treasure Coast come to fish, Gasparilla and Cayo Costa islands
and they certainly get their fill off off Fort Myers, harbor the mighty
the miles of Atlantic shore and on tarpon, the “silver king of the seas.”
the inland rivers. If you want to Teddy Roosevelt and his rich bud-
fish freshwater and nothing else, dies used to bag tarpon in these
head for Lake Okeechobee, the waters, and anglers from around
state’s largest lake, which is chock- the globe still compete every July in
full of good eating fish. It covers the World’s Richest Tarpon Tourna-
more than 467,000 acres; that’s ment. See p. 398.
more than 730 square miles. At • Destin: Florida’s largest charter-
one time, the lake supported an boat fleet, with more than 140
enormous commercial fishing vessels, is based in this Panhandle
industry. Due to a commercial town, which calls itself the
fishing-net ban, however, much of “World’s Luckiest Fishing Vil-
that industry has died off, leaving lage.” Anglers here have landed
the sport fishers all the rich championship catches of grouper,
bounty of the lake. See p. 358. amberjack, snapper, mackerel,
• Stuart: Known as the “Sailfish cobia, sailfish, wahoo, tuna, and
Capital of the World,” Stuart is an blue marlin. See p. 626.
4 The Best Golf Courses
• Biltmore Hotel (Miami): The • The Inn at Boca Teeca (Boca
beautiful, rolling 18-hole golf Raton): For over 3 decades, this
course designed by Donald Ross inn has been attracting golf fanat-
and located at the majestic Bilt- ics who could care less about the
more Hotel in Coral Gables is small, but comfortable, rooms
open to the public and is a favorite because they’re too busy out on
of Bill Clinton’s. See p. 114. the superb 27-hole golf course at
• Doral Golf Resort and Spa the Inn’s Boca Teeca Country
(Miami): Four championship Club, open only to members and
courses make the Doral one of guests of the inn. See p. 309.
Miami’s best golf destinations. • PGA National Resort & Spa
One course, the legendary Blue (Palm Beach): This rambling
Monster, is the site of the annual resort, the national headquarters of
Doral-Ryder Open. See p. 174. the PGA, is a premier golf destina-
• Turnberry Isle Resort and Club tion, with five 18-hole courses on
(Aventura, North Miami Beach): more than 2,300 acres. See p. 332.
These two courses by Robert • Emerald Dunes Golf Course
Trent Jones Sr. are open only to (West Palm Beach): This gorgeous
guests but are among the city’s Tom Fazio–designed course (featur-
best. See p. 174. ing 60 acres of water and stunning03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 12
12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA
views of the ocean) is pricey but one year go through Innisbrook’s Golf
of only a few in the area open to the Institute, and golfers from around
public. See p. 316. the world come to play the 600
• Champions Club at Summer- acres of courses. See p. 465.
field (Stuart): The best in the area, • Walt Disney World (Orlando):
this rural, somewhat-challenging The resorts surrounding the
championship course was designed theme parks have 99 regulation
by Tom Fazio and built in 1994. It holes that let you walk in the foot-
also offers great glimpses of wildlife steps (and share the frustrations)
amid the wetlands. See p. 342. of the game’s greatest players.
• Lely Flamingo Island Club Those with a shorter stroke can
(Naples): Designed by Robert play the master miniature courses:
Trent Jones Sr., Lely Flamingo’s Fantasia Gardens and Winter
hourglass fairways and fingerlike Summerland. See p. 542.
bunkers present many challenges. • Ladies Professional Golf Associ-
It’s part of a development that ation/LPGA International (Day-
includes the Lely Mustang, a tona Beach): This “women-
Lee Trevino–designed course that friendly” course has multiple tee
is more forgiving but still fun. settings, unrestricted tee times, a
See p. 403. great pro shop, and state-of-the-
• Tiburón Golf Club (Naples): art facilities. Designed by Rees-
Greg Norman designed the 36 Jones, the older of the two courses
championship holes at this course here was chosen as one of the
to play like a British Open—but “Top Ten You Can Play” by Golf
without the thick thatch rough. magazine. See p. 561.
The course is now home to the • TPC at Sawgrass (Ponte Vedra
luxurious Ritz-Carlton Golf Beach, near Jacksonville): With 99
Resort, Naples. See p. 404. holes, Pete Dye’s Tournament
• Naples Beach Hotel & Golf Players Club (TPC) at Sawgrass
Club (Naples): One of the state’s makes top-10 lists everywhere.
oldest, this resort course is rela- The 17th hole, on a tricky island,
tively flat, but small greens and is one of the most photographed
masterful bunkers will test your holes in the world. See p. 593.
skills. In addition, one of Florida’s • Ocean Hammock Golf Club
most charming resort hotels is (Palm Coast, between Daytona
across the street. See p. 408. Beach and St. Augustine): Opened
• Mangrove Bay Golf Course (St. in late 2000 with six of
Petersburg): One of the nation’s its holes actually skirting the
top 50 municipal courses, the Atlantic Ocean, this Jack Nick-
Mangrove Bay course hugs the laus–designed course is the first
inlets of Old Tampa Bay and authentic seaside links built in
offers 18-hole, par-72 play. Facili- Florida since the 1920s. See p. 581.
ties include a driving range; les- • Amelia Island Plantation (Amelia
sons and golf-club rental are also Island): This exclusive resort has
available. See p. 448. three of the state’s best courses.
• The Westin Innisbrook Resort Long Point Club, designed by Tom
(Tarpon Springs): Golfweek has Fazio, is the most beautiful and
called Innisbrook’s Copperhead challenging. Pete Dye’s Amelia
Course, former home of the annual Links is another oceanfront course.
JCPenney Classic, number one in Both are open only to resort guests.
Florida. One thousand students a See p. 605.03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 13
T H E B E S T F A M I LY A T T R A C T I O N S 13
• Marriott’s Bay Point Resort the country’s most difficult.
Village (Panama City Beach): Nearby is The Hombre, an 18-
Thirty-six holes of championship holer where O. J. Simpson played
golf at this Marriott include the a round right after his acquittal.
Lagoon Legends course, one of See p. 647.
5 The Best Family Attractions
• Parrot Jungle Island (Miami): • Busch Gardens Tampa Bay
Settled into its new swanky $47 (Tampa): Although the thrill rides,
million digs on Watson Island as live entertainment, shops, restau-
of June 2003, Parrot Jungle Island rants, and games get most of the
is a revamped version of the origi- ink at this 335-acre family theme
nal in South Miami. You’ll still park, Busch Gardens also ranks
need to watch your head, however, among the top zoos in the country,
since flying above are hundreds with several thousand animals liv-
of parrots, macaws, peacocks, ing in naturalistic environments. If
cockatoos, and flamingos. Con- you can get them off the roller
tinuous suitable but cheesy coasters, the kids can find out
shows star roller-skating cocka- what all those wild beasts they’ve
toos, card-playing macaws, and seen on the Discovery Channel
numerous stunt-happy parrots. look like in person. See p. 426.
There are also tortoises, iguanas, • MOSI (Museum of Science and
and a rare albino alligator on Industry) (Tampa): One of the
exhibit. See p. 181. largest educational science centers
• Sea Grass Adventures (Miami): in the Southeast, MOSI has more
This is not your typical nature than 450 interactive exhibits in
tour. With Sea Grass Adventures, which the kids can experience
you will be able to wade in the hurricane-force winds, defy the
water on Key Biscayne with your laws of gravity, cruise the mysteri-
guide and catch an assortment of ous world of microbes, explore the
sea life in the provided nets. At the human body, and more. They can
end of the program, participants also watch stunning movies in
gather on the beach while the MOSIMAX, Florida’s first IMAX
guide explains what everyone’s dome theater. See p. 432.
just caught, passing the creatures • Universal Studios Florida
around in miniature viewing (Orlando): Universal Orlando’s
tanks. See p. 181. original Florida park has many
• Miami Museum of Science and rides based on Hollywood block-
Space Transit Planetarium busters or cartoon heroes, such as
(Miami): The Museum of Science Jaws and Jimmy Neutron’s Nick-
features more than 140 hands-on toon Blast. Kids can get slimed at
exhibits that explore the mysteries Nickelodeon Studios or get thrilled
of the universe. Live demonstra- by the pint-sized roller coaster and
tions and collections of rare natu- other fun in Woody Woodpecker’s
ral-history specimens make a visit KidZone. See p. 533.
here fun and informative. Many • Walt Disney World’s Magic
of the demos involve audience Kingdom (Orlando): Introduce
participation, which can be lots of your wee ones to many of the
fun for willing and able kids and Disney characters at Mickey’s
adults alike. See p. 160. Toontown Fair in the Magic03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 14
14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA
Kingdom, Disney’s premier park. IMAX films, and dozens of
There’s also a ton of fun on rides informative displays on the space
themed after Winnie the Pooh, program. Try to schedule a trip
Peter Pan, Dumbo, Cinderella, during a real launch; there are more
Aladdin, and Buzz Lightyear. Rides than a dozen each year. See p. 549.
like Splash Mountain make sure • DAYTONA USA (Daytona
older guests have fun, too. See Beach): Opened in late 1996 on
p. 520. Daytona International Speedway
• Kennedy Space Center (Cape grounds, this huge state-of-the-art
Canaveral): Especially since the interactive attraction is an exciting
recent multimillion-dollar renova- and fast-paced stop even for non-
tion and expansion, this family race fans. Kids can see real stock
destination is a must-see. There is cars, go-karts, and motorcycles,
plenty to keep kids and parents and even participate in a pit stop
busy for at least a full day, includ- on a NASCAR Winston Cup race
ing interactive computer games, car. See p. 558.
6 The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences
• Jimbo’s (Miami): Located at the Riviera, where equally colorful
very end of Virginia Key, in Key locals and luminaries proudly
Biscayne, on the lagoon where prance as if every day was the Easter
they shot Flipper, Jimbo’s has parade. In Palm Beach, titled nobil-
become the quintessential, albeit ity, bejeweled socialites, and an
hard-to-find, South Florida water- assortment of upper crusties put on
ing hole, snack bar, and hangout the ritz on the city’s version of
for a wacky assortment of colorful Rodeo Drive. See p. 152 and p. 320.
characters from shrimpers and • Swimming with the Dolphins at
yachters to politicos. Dollar beers the Dolphin Research Center
and excellent smoked fish are sold (Marathon): Of the four such cen-
from a cooler, vacant shacks serve ters in the continental United
as backdrops for films, and visitors States, the Dolphin Research Cen-
are able to test their skills in a ter is the most impressive. With
game of bocce ball. See p. 143. advanced reservations, you can
• Columbus Day Regatta (Miami): splash around with dolphins in
This unique observation of their natural lagoon homes. It’s an
Columbus Day revolves around a amazing experience. See p. 210.
so-called regatta in Biscayne Bay • Underwater Stay at Jules’
but always ends with participants Undersea Lodge (Key Largo):
stripping down to their bare, ahem, Submerge yourself in this single-
necessities and partying at the room Atlantis-like hotel that
sandbar in the middle of the bay. offers a surprisingly comfortable
There is a boat race at some point suite 30 feet underwater. Don’t
of the day, but most people are too worry, there’s plenty of breathing
preoccupied to notice. See p. 169. room. See p. 217.
• People-Watching on South Beach • Fantasy Fest (Key West): Mardi
and Worth Avenue (Miami and Gras takes a Floridian vacation as
Palm Beach): As cliché as the the streets of Key West are over-
notion of people-watching may taken by wildly costumed revelers
seem, it’s never the same old who have no shame and no
scenario on Miami’s neon-hued parental guidance. This weeklong,03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 15
T H E B E S T S M A L L TOW N S 15
hedonistic, X-rated Halloween which nudge and caress you as
party is not for children under 18. you swim with them. See p. 450.
See p. 244. • Dolphin Swims (Orlando):
• Babcock Wilderness Adventures Spend a big chunk of your day
(Fort Myers): Experienced natu- and budget at Discovery Cove, an
ralists lead “swamp buggy” tours all-inclusive park where visitors
through the Babcock Ranch, can take a 3-minute swim with a
including the mysterious Tele- dolphin, among other things, for
graph Swamp, where alligators $229. See p. 539.
lounge in the sun. Although the • Wrangle an Alligator (Orlando):
Babcock Ranch is the largest cattle Play trainer for a day and meet
operation east of the Mississippi some of the toothy stars up close
(with bison and quarter horses and real personal at Gatorland.
too), it is also a major wildlife pre- You might even get to hop on
serve inhabited by countless birds “Pop,” the 12-foot, 750-pound
and other creatures. See p. 367. big daddy of the breeding march.
• Swimming with the Manatees See p. 539.
(Crystal River, north of Clearwa- • Learning to Surf the Big Curls
ter): Some 360 manatees spend at Cocoa Beach Surfing School
the winter in the Crystal River, (Cocoa Beach): Even if you don’t
and you can swim, snorkel, or know how to hang ten, this school
scuba with them in the warm- will get you riding the waves
water natural spring of Kings Bay, with the best of them. It offers
about 7 miles north of Homosassa equipment and lessons for all
Springs. It’s not uncommon to be skill levels—beginner to pro—at
surrounded in the 72°F (21°C) the best surf beaches in Florida.
water by 30 to 40 “sea cows,” See p. 553.
7 The Best Small Towns
• Sebastian (Treasure Coast): shops and the Loose Caboose
Known as one of the last remain- Restaurant and Ice Cream Parlor.
ing fishing villages in Florida, See p. 398.
Sebastian is located at the northern • Olde Naples (Naples): Started in
tip of the Treasure Coast region in 1886 as a real-estate development,
Indian River County. The area’s the original part of Naples retains
small-town feel and laid-back, much of Old Florida’s charm, with
relaxed atmosphere is one of its tree-lined streets dividing many of
biggest draws. See p. 351. the original clapboard homes.
• Boca Grande (Southwest Florida): With the houses on Millionaires’
Founded in the 1880s, this little Row virtually hidden by dense
village on Gasparilla Island retains foliage and with no high-rises in
the flavor of those Victorian times. sight, Naples Beach seems far
Luxurious mansions coexist with removed from today’s modern
simple homes of fishermen who city. See p. 404.
guide rich folks in search of tar- • Tarpon Springs (Southwest
pon, just as their ancestors did a Florida): Tarpon Springs calls
century ago. The du Ponts, Mel- itself the “Sponge Capital of the
lons, and Astors once arrived, for World,” because immigrants from
the wintertime “social season,” at Greece settled here in the late
the town’s railway depot, which 1800s to harvest the sponges that
has been restored and now houses grew in abundance offshore. Their03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 16
16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA
descendants make Tarpon Springs before the Civil War, and a later
a fascinating center of trans- timber boom resulted in the fine
planted Greek culture. Sponges Victorian homes that still grace
still arrive at the historic Sponge Apalachicola’s uncurbed streets. It
Docks, where a lively, carnival-like was here that Dr. John Gorrie
atmosphere and Greek cuisine invented the forerunner of the air
prevail. Restored Victorian homes conditioner, which revolutionized
facing Spring Bayou also make Florida’s tourism industry. Today,
this one of the most picturesque the major industry is seafood, with
towns in the state. See p. 469. famous Apalachicola oysters eaten
• Fernandina Beach (Northeast fresh off the boats. See p. 651.
Florida): You can stay at two of • Pensacola (Northwest Florida):
Florida’s ritziest resorts on Amelia One of America’s oldest communi-
Island, but the real charm here is ties, Pensacola has preserved its
in the quaint town of Fernandina Spanish, French, and English her-
Beach, where a 50-block area of itage in the Seville Historic District
Victorian and Queen Anne homes and Historic Pensacola Village.
is listed on the National Register Spanish-named streets are bordered
of Historic Places. See p. 601. by both French-style wrought-iron
• Apalachicola (Northwest Florida): balconies reminiscent of New
Located at the mouth of the Orleans and English colonial
Apalachicola River, this Gulf-shore churches like those in Williams-
town was a major cotton port burg, Virginia. See p. 612.
8 The Best Spas
• Agua at The Delano Hotel treatments including the Key
(Miami; & 800/555-5001 or 305/ Lime Coconut Body Scrub and
672-2000): One trip to this sub- the Everglades Grass Body Wrap
lime, celebrity-saturated rooftop in one of 21 treatment rooms. For
spa overlooking the Atlantic in a a real splurge, the Fountain of
haute hotel and you’ll feel like Youth Balance treatment is a 6-
you’re in heaven. Try the milk-and- hour indulgence featuring a facial,
honey massage and you’ll under- massage, manicure, pedicure,
stand. See p. 96. shampoo, styling, and lunch
• The Spa at Turnberry Isle Resort served on the oceanfront terrace.
& Club (Miami; & 800/327- See p. 92.
7028 or 305/936-2929): The • Marriott’s Harbor Beach (Fort
Turnberry Spa, which has been Lauderdale; & 800/222-6543
renovated to the tune of $10 mil- and 954/525-4000): This new $8
lion, consists of three levels of million, 24,000-square-foot Euro-
deluxe pampering and includes pean spa is the first full-service
aerobics and fitness classes, stress seaside facility of its kind in Fort
reductions, massage therapy, and a Lauderdale. See p. 292.
juice bar designed for complete • PGA National Resort & Spa
rejuvenation. See p. 114. (Palm Beach Gardens; & 800/
• The Ritz-Carlton Spa, Key Bis- 633-9150 or 561/627-2000): This
cayne (Key Biscayne; & 305/ lauded golf resort provides the
365-4223): This spa is a sublime, perfect pampering for sore golfers
20,000-square-foot West Indies and bored nongolfers with its
colonial-style Eden in which you Mediterranean Spa featuring just
can treat yourself to over 60 about every treatment imaginable,03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 17
T H E B E S T L U X U RY R E S O RT S 17
including special ones for pregnant • The Ritz-Carlton, Naples (Naples;
women. See p. 335. & 888/856-4372 or 239/598-
• Sanibel Harbour Resort & Spa 3300): A new $50 million, full-
(Fort Myers; & 800/767-7777 or service spa will leave you thor-
239/466-2166): Many call this oughly relaxed before or after your
high-rise resort overlooking Sani- stroll through the mangrove forest
bel Island the best spa value in the to the white-sand beach at one
country. Regardless of the price, of Florida’s finest luxury resorts. See
the spa obliges your every whim. p. 410.
Try the amazing Betar Bed, a sus- • Safety Harbor Resort and Spa
pended “bed of music” that floats (Tampa Bay Area; & 888/237-
you to a level where stresses disap- 8772 or 727/726-1161): Tucked
pear. There are also mud, algae, away off the beaten track amid
seaweed, and mineral wraps; Swiss moss-draped oaks and cobblestone
showers; paraffin facials; and streets, Safety Harbor is the oldest
more. Day packages, makeovers, continually-running spa in the
and men’s sports packages are United States, and Florida’s only
popular. The fitness center is also spa built around natural healing
state-of-the-art. See p. 370. springs—the feeling is very Euro-
• Naples Beach Hotel & Golf pean. The Phil Green tennis
Club (Naples; & 800/237-7600 school is also on the grounds, and
or 239/261-2222): A new spa many tennis programs are avail-
adds complete relaxation to a stay able. See p. 452.
at this venerable hotel, already • Amelia Island Plantation (Amelia
one of Florida’s most relaxing Island; & 888/261-6161 or 904/
resorts. A deep-body massage fol- 261-6161): Besides a spectacular
lowed by a milk-and-honey wrap resort and a new, stunning spa
will leave you on cloud nine, and facility, the Amelia Island Planta-
a special wedding package will tion has a dedicated Watsu®
have you primed for the big day. Massage facility on its own small
See p. 408. island right near the spa.
9 The Best Luxury Resorts
• Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne (Key dining and bar facilities previously
Biscayne; & 800/241-3333 or unknown to its nearby downtown
305/365-4500): In addition to the Miami locale. See p. 111.
Ritz’s consistently superior serv- • Ritz-Carlton (South Beach;
ices and amenities, this British- & 800/241-3333 or 786/276-
colonial–style version of the Ritz 4000): Taking the concept of
rises above its casual Key Biscayne swanky South Beach to a very lit-
surroundings with a stellar view of eral level, the Ritz-Carlton South
the Atlantic Ocean, not to men- Beach may be a landmark build-
tion an equally impressive 20,000- ing restored to its original 1950s
square-foot spa. See p. 107. Art Moderne style, but in terms of
• Mandarin Oriental, Miami the hotel’s standout service,
(Brickell Key, Miami; & 305/ amenities, and oceanfront, every-
913-8288): The swank and stun- thing else is very much in the
ning Mandarin Oriental features a immediate present. See p. 96.
waterfront location, residential- • The Breakers (Palm Beach;
style rooms (most with balconies), & 800/833-3141 or 561/655-
superb service, and several upscale 6611): This stately, historic hotel03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 18
18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA
epitomizes la dolce vita, Palm Ritz-Carlton amenities such as
Beach style, featuring expansive imported marble floors, antique
manicured lawns, an elegant art, Oriental rugs, Waterford crys-
lobby, the state’s oldest and very tal chandeliers, and afternoon
scenic golf course, and impeccable British-style high tea. Guests relax
service. See p. 322. in high-backed rockers on the
• Ritz-Carlton Palm Beach (Palm verandas or unwind by the heated
Beach; & 800/241-3333 or swimming pool set in a land-
561/533-6000): What better scaped terrace, but they must walk
place for a Ritz-Carlton than in through a narrow mangrove forest
the city that defines the concept of to reach the beach. See p. 410.
ritzy? The ghosts of Rockefeller • South Seas Resort (Captiva
and company are alive and well Island; & 800/CAPTIVA or
here in this Mediterranean- 239/472-5111): Built on what
inspired outpost of the first-rate, was once a 330-acre copra planta-
well-respected hotel that’s the tion, this exclusive spot is one of
quintessence of Palm Beach ele- the best choices in southern
gance. See p. 323. Florida for serious tennis buffs (22
• Naples Beach Hotel & Golf courts with pro). Its Gulf-side
Club (Naples; & 800/237-7600 golf course is one of the most
or 239/261-2222): A beachside picturesque nine-holers anywhere.
setting on Millionaires’ Row There are no high-rise buildings,
couldn’t be better for carrying on just an assortment of luxury
the hallowed-but-relaxed Old homes and condominiums, some
Florida traditions at this family- with private pools and their own
operated hotel. A championship tennis courts. With three bed-
18-hole golf course, a tennis club, rooms or more, some units are
and a full-service spa are all on the ideal for families or couples who
premises. The beachside chickee want to share the cost of a vaca-
hut (covered wooden platform on tion. See p. 390.
stilts) bar is one of Florida’s best • Don CeSar Beach Resort & Spa
sunset venues, and the dining (St. Pete Beach; & 800/282-1116,
room serves an exceptional, rea- 800/637-7200, or 813/360-1881):
sonably priced breakfast buffet. Dating back to 1928 and listed on
See p. 408. the National Register of Historic
• The Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort, Places, this “Pink Palace” tropical
Naples (Naples; & 888/856- getaway is so romantic you may
4372 or 239/593-2000): This lux- bump into six or seven honey-
urious new Mediterranean-style mooning couples in one weekend.
resort takes full advantage of the The lobby has classic high win-
Greg Norman–designed Tiburon dows and archways, crystal chande-
Golf Club. Guests here can use the liers, marble floors, and original
beach and spa at The Ritz-Carlton, artworks. Most rooms have high
Naples, nearby. See p. 410. ceilings and offer views of the Gulf
• The Ritz-Carlton, Naples or Boca Ciega Bay. See p. 460.
(Naples; & 888/856-4372 or • Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort
239/598-3300): This opulent 14- & Spa (Orlando; & 407/934-
story Mediterranean-style hotel at 7639): This magnificent Victorian
Vanderbilt Beach is a favorite of inn has an opulent five-story
affluent guests, who like standard lobby complete with a Chinese03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 19
T H E B E S T R O M A N T I C H I D E A W AY S 19
Chippendale aviary. An orchestra • Amelia Island Plantation (Amelia
plays big-band music every Island; & 888/261-6161 or 904/
evening near Victoria & Albert’s, 261-6161): Set amid magnolias,
the resort’s five-star restaurant. See oak trees, and the Atlantic Ocean,
p. 495. this gracious resort is straight out of
• Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress the Deep South. It’s more rustic
Resort (Orlando; & 800/233- than the nearby Ritz, but it has
1234 or 407/239-1234): This excellent hiking and biking paths,
standout has some impressive tennis, swimming, horseback rid-
treats, including a half-acre pool ing, and boating. Golfers can enjoy
with a dozen waterfalls and three exclusive use of two of the top
spas, 12 tennis courts, a 45-hole courses in Florida. See p. 604 and
Jack Nicklaus–designed golf course, “The Best Golf Courses,” in sec-
and a 45-acre nature walk. All that tion 4, earlier in this chapter.
adds up to luxury. See p. 503.
10 The Best Romantic Hideaways
• Hotel Place St. Michel (Coral away in a mostly residential neigh-
Gables; & 800/848-HOTEL or borhood, is a haven from the
305/444-1666): This European- neighboring South Beach hoopla.
style hotel in the heart of Coral See p. 100.
Gables is one of the city’s most • Little Palm Island (Little Torch
romantic options. The accommo- Key; & 800/343-8567): Accessi-
dations and hospitality are very ble only by boat, this private 5-
old-world European, complete acre island is not only remote, it’s
with dark wood-paneled walls, romantic, featuring no TVs, tele-
cozy beds, beautiful antiques, and phones, or faxes in the luxurious
a quiet elegance that seems star- thatched cottages. See p. 228.
tlingly out of place in trendy • Marquesa Hotel (Key West;
Miami. See p. 116. & 800/869-4631 or 305/292-
• Hotel Impala (Miami Beach; 1919): Don’t be fooled by the
& 800/646-7252 or 305/673- Marquesa’s location on heavily
2021): During the heyday of populated Key West: This charm-
1990s excess, Miami Beach was ing B&B is in a wonderful world
known for the fabulous parties of its own, far enough from the
thrown by the eclectic designer tumult, yet close enough if you
Gianni Versace. The late Versace want it. See p. 247.
desired an intimate European- • Sundy House (Delray Beach;
styled guesthouse that would & 877/439-9601 or 561/272-
please well-seasoned travelers, and 5678): With just 11 suites sur-
the Impala is the result. His per- rounded by over 5,000 species of
sonal touch on this renovated exotic plants and flowers, gazebos
Mediterranean inn is still evident, and rolling streams, Sundy House
from the Greco-Roman frescoes is a gorgeous getaway close
and friezes to an intimate garden enough to the beach, but safely
that is perfumed with the scents hidden from the mood-ruining
from carefully hanging lilies and madness and conventionality of
gardenias. See p. 99. your typical tourist-class beach
• Abbey Hotel (Miami Beach; hotel. See p. 308.
& 305/531-0031): This ’40s- • Island’s End Resort (St. Pete
revival boutique hotel, tucked Beach; & 727/360-5023). Sitting03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 20
20 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA
right on Pass-a-Grille, where or bobcat. It shares a golf academy,
the Gulf of Mexico meets Tampa racquet club, and equestrian center
Bay, this little all-cottage retreat with the Hyatt Regency Grand
is a great hideaway from the Cypress. Best of all, the woodsy
maddening crowds of St. Pete grounds make you feel as if you’re
Beach. You won’t have an on-site far, far from Disney, which is right
restaurant, bar, and other such next door. See p. 503.
amenities, but you can step from • The Lodge & Club at Ponte
your cottage right onto the beach. Vedra Beach (Jacksonville; & 800/
And if you get the unit with two 243-4304 or 904/273-9500):
living rooms, you’ll have a Every unit at this intimate hotel in
whirlpool tub and your own pri- upscale Ponte Vedra Beach has a
vate Gulf-side swimming pool. romantic seat built in front of its
See p. 462. oceanview window, plus there’s a
• Turtle Beach Resort (Siesta Key, big bathroom with a two-person
off Sarasota; & 941/349-4554): tub and a separate shower. Gas fire-
Sitting beside the bay, this inti- places in most units add even more
mate little charmer began life charm. One of the three swimming
years ago as a traditional Old pools and whirlpools here is
Florida fishing camp, but today reserved exclusively for couples. You
it’s one of the state’s most roman- can also get married in the semicir-
tic retreats. It’s a tightly packed lit- cular meeting room overlooking
tle place, but high wooden fences the Atlantic. See p. 596.
surround each unit’s private out- • Henderson Park Inn (Destin;
door hot tub, and one-way mirror & 800/336-4853 or 850/837-
walls let you lounge in bed while 4853): Nestled against the eastern
passersby see only reflections of edge of lovely Henderson Beach
themselves. See p. 482. State Recreation Area, this Cape
• Disney’s Wilderness Lodge Hatteras–style bed-and-breakfast
(Lake Buena Vista; & 407/934- offers romantic escapes without
7639): This property is reminis- screaming kids. The individually
cent of the lodge at Yellowstone. decorated rooms ooze Victorian
The geyser out back, the mam- charm, with high ceilings, fire-
moth stone hearth in the lobby, places, Queen Anne furniture,
the dining room’s 360° view of and Gulf views from private bal-
Bay Lake, and the nightly electric conies. Some even have canopy
water pageants are just a few of the beds. See p. 633.
reasons to stay here. Some guest • Seaside (near Destin; & 800/
rooms have patios or balconies 277-8696 or 850/231-1320): If
overlooking the lake, woodlands, residents of Northwest Florida
or a meadow. See p. 499. don’t stay at the Henderson Park
• The Villas of Grand Cypress Inn for their getaways, they head
(Orlando; & 800/835-7377 or for the romantic Gulf-front cot-
407/239-4700): This condo- tages at Seaside. Built in the 1980s
minium resort offers lush grounds but evoking the 1880s, the Victo-
dotted with bougainvillea and rian-style village of Seaside (a
hibiscus, lakes fat with largemouth short drive east of Destin) has sev-
bass and bream, and grounds eral of its cozy cottages designed
speckled with trumpeter swans, especially for honeymooners. See
wood ducks, and the occasional fox p. 636.03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 21
T H E B E S T M O D E R A T E LY P R I C E D A C C O M M O D A T I O N S 21
11 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations
• Abbey Hotel (South Beach; and stiff drinks,” the Whitelaw
& 888/61-ABBEY or 305/531- Hotel stands apart from the other
0031): Off the beaten path, this boutique hotels with its fierce
’40s-revival boutique hotel gives sense of humor, but it never
good reason to get off the main compromises on the fabulous
drag and revel in its quiet ele- amenities found at some of the
gance. See p. 100. area’s more serious properties. See
• Hotel Leon (South Beach, & 305/ p. 103.
673-3767): A true value, this • Conch Key Cottages (Marathon;
charismatic and hip sliver of a & 800/330-1577 or 305/289-
property has won the loyalty of 1377): This oceanfront hideaway
fashion industrialists and roman- offers rustic but immaculate and
tics alike. Built in 1929 and well-outfitted cottages that are
restored in 1996, the hotel still especially popular with families.
retains many original details such Each has a hammock, barbecue
as facades, woodwork, and even grill, and kitchen. See p. 218.
fireplaces. See p. 102. • Banyan Marina Resort (Fort
• Pelican Hotel (South Beach; Lauderdale; & 954/524-4430):
& 800/7-PELICAN or 305/673- These fabulous waterfront apart-
3373): Owned by the creative ments located on a beautifully
owners of the Diesel Jeans com- landscaped residential island may
pany, The Pelican is South Beach’s have you vowing never to stay in a
only self-professed “toy-hotel,” in hotel again. See p. 295.
which each of its 30 rooms and • Hotel Biba (West Palm Beach;
suites is decorated as outrageously & 561/832-0094): The mod
as some of the area’s more colorful squad has adopted—and adapt
drag queens. See p. 102. ed—this ’40s-style motel into a
• Indian Creek Hotel (Miami Jetsonian, jet-set hangout that
Beach; & 800/491-2772 or 305/ provides swank and sleek shelter
531-2727): A charming Key from the upper-crusty hotels that
West–style hotel that’s full of char- surround it. See p. 326.
acter, the Indian Creek Hotel • Grandview Resort (Fort Myers
takes you back in time, with Beach; & 888/627-1595 or 941/
period furnishings, attitude-free 765-4422): With gorgeous views
service, and a quaint pool and gar- of the Gulf or of Lover’s Key, on
den, completely lacking water which this resort is located,
slides, Tiki huts, or calypso bands. Grandview Resort is a well priced
See p. 107. hotel that certainly lives up to its
• Crest Hotel Suites (South Beach; name. See p. 376.
& 800/531-3880 or 305/531- • Island’s End Resort (St. Pete
0321): You won’t find any celebri- Beach; & 727/360-5023): A won-
ties hiding out in here, but you derful respite from the madding
will find a lot of smart hipsters crowd, and a great bargain to boot,
who pay less for comfort and cool- this little all-cottage hideaway sits
ness than those staying at those right on the southern tip of St. Pete
other sceney hotels. See p. 101. Beach, smack-dab on Pass-a-Grille,
• Whitelaw Hotel (South Beach; where the Gulf of Mexico meets
& 305/398-7000): With a slogan Tampa Bay. You can step from the
that reads “clean sheets, hot water, six contemporary cottages right03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 22
22 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA
onto the beach. One unit even has younger guests come first at this
its own private swimming pool. delightful resort, which offers spe-
See p. 462. cial Kid Suites, but also offers
• DoubleTree Guest Suites (Lake suites especially themed for movie
Buena Vista; & 800/222-8733 or buffs and lovers, among others.
407/934-1000): Children have See p. 504.
their own check-in desk here, and • Casa Monica Hotel (St. Augus-
all units have two rooms and beds tine; & 800/648-1888 or 904/
for six. It’s also next to Walt Dis- 827-1888): Built in 1888 as a lux-
ney World. See p. 502. ury hotel, this Spanish-style build-
• Best Western Lake Buena Vista ing was gutted and restored to its
Hotel (Lake Buena Vista; & 800/ previous elegance in 1998. Most
348-3765 or 407/828-2424): This interesting of the guest quarters
12-acre, 18-story lakefront hotel is are suites installed in two tile-
well kept and immaculate, with topped towers and a fortresslike
more upscale rooms and public central turret. One suite in the
areas than you might expect at a turret has a half-round living
Best Western. And it has a great room with gun-port windows
location next to Walt Disney overlooking St. Augustine’s his-
World. See p. 501. toric district. See p. 582.
• Disney’s Caribbean Beach • Gibson Inn (Apalachicola; & 850/
Resort (Lake Buena Vista; & 407/ 653-2191): Built in 1907 as a sea-
934-7639 or 407/934-3400): man’s hotel and gorgeously restored
Here’s good value by Disney stan- in 1985, this cupola-topped inn is
dards. Units on the 200-acre resort such a brilliant example of Victo-
are grouped in five villages around rian architecture that it’s listed on
a duck-filled lake. The welcoming the National Register of Historic
rooms feature oak furniture and Inns. No two guest rooms are alike
chintz bedspreads. There are also (some still have the original sinks in
seven swimming pools, a 11⁄ 2-mile the sleeping area), but all are richly
promenade, and a festive food furnished with period reproduc-
court. See p. 499. tions. Grab a drink from the bar
• Holiday Inn Family Suites and relax in one of the high-backed
Resort (Lake Buena Vista; & 877/ rockers on the old-fashioned
387-5437 or 407/387-5437): The veranda. See p. 655.
12 The Best Seafood Restaurants
• Joe’s Stone Crab Restaurant Although the name does this
(South Beach; & 305/673-0365): fantastic seafood restaurant no
Open only during stone-crab sea- justice, the food makes up for it
son (Oct–May), this always- tenfold. See p. 135.
packed Miami institution knows • Grillfish (South Beach; & 305/
how to reel in the crowds with the 538-9908): From the beautiful
freshest, meatiest stone crabs and Byzantine-style mural and the
the essential accouterments that gleaming oak bar, you’d think you
go with them, from creamed were eating in a much more
spinach to excellent sweet-potato expensive restaurant. Thankfully,
french fries. See p. 122. Grillfish still manages to pay the
• The Fish Joint (North Miami exorbitant South Beach rent by
Beach; & 305/936-8333): having a loyal following of locals03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 23
T H E B E S T S E A F O O D R E S TA U R A N T S 23
who come for fresh, simple hospitality, Conchy Joe’s enjoys an
seafood in a relaxed but upscale excellent reputation that’s far
atmosphere. See p. 126. bigger than the restaurant itself.
• Big Fish (downtown Miami; Dining is either indoors or on a
& 305/373-1770): This hard-to- covered patio overlooking the St.
find, charismatic seafood shack on Lucie River. See p. 346.
the Miami River is definitely a big • Channel Mark (Fort Myers Beach;
fish in the little pond of down- & 239/463-9127): Every table
town restaurants. With a spectac- looks out on a maze of channel
ular riverfront setting, Big Fish markers on Hurricane Bay, and a
has a terrific view of the Miami dock with palms growing through
skyline and some of the freshest it makes the Channel Mark a relax-
catch around. See p. 138. ing place for a waterside lunch.
• Atlantic’s Edge (Islamorada; The atmosphere changes dramati-
& 305/664-4651): Of the many cally at night, when the relaxed
seafood restaurants in the Keys, tropical ambience is ideal for
this one is tops, with an innova- kindling romance. Congenial
tive menu that includes some of owners Mike McGuigan and
the freshest and tastiest fish Andy Welsh put a creative spin on
around. It’s also the most elegant their seafood dishes, and their deli-
offering in the Keys. See p. 221. cately seasoned crab cakes are tops.
• Marker 88 (Islamorada; & 305/ See p. 378.
852-9315): Bahamian conch, • Lobster Pot (Redington Shores,
stone crabs from the Florida Bay, near St. Pete Beach; & 727/391-
and shrimp from the West Coast 8592): Come here for some of the
are just some of the fresh items, finest seafood dishes on the St.
innovatively prepared, at this Pete and Clearwater beaches.
Upper Keys institution. See p. 221. Among the amazing variety of
• Hobo’s Fish Joint (Coral Springs; lobster dishes is one flambéed in
& 954/346-5484): Huge por- brandy with garlic, and the bouil-
tions of extremely fresh fish are labaisse is as authentic as any
prepared in well over a dozen ways you’ll find in the south of France.
at this steakhouse-style restaurant See p. 467.
with wood floors and white table- • Fulton’s Crab House (Lake Buena
cloths. Despite the fact that it’s Vista; & 407/934-2628): Located
located away from the ocean in in a riverboat replica, Fulton’s has a
the utterly suburban enclave of nostalgic mood and an array of
Coral Springs, this joint is defi- good seafood, though meals can
nitely worth a jaunt. See p. 298. get a bit pricey if you opt for stone
• Sunfish Grill (Pompano Beach; or king crab. There’s also an excel-
& 954/788-2434): Some argue lent wine list. See p. 513.
that this is the best seafood restau- • Ted Peters’ Famous Smoked
rant on the entire Gold Coast, and Fish (near St. Pete Beach; & 727/
we won’t argue against them 381-7931): The Peters clan has
thanks to the chef/owner who been watering mouths since 1948,
buys seafood fresh from local fish- when they started smoking fish
ermen and prepares it with stun- and icing draft beer at the end of
ning results. See p. 298. the causeway that leads from St.
• Conchy Joe’s Seafood (Jensen Pete Beach to the St. Petersburg
Beach; & 561/334-1130): Known mainland. Options include mul-
for fresh seafood and Old Florida let, mackerel, salmon, or bring03 537229 Ch01.qxd 7/30/03 8:54 AM Page 24
24 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF FLORIDA
your own fish to be smoked over • Chef Eddie’s Magnolia Grill
the red oak coals at $1.50 per (Apalachicola; & 850/653-8000):
pound. See p. 466. Chef Eddie Cass’s pleasant restau-
• Back Porch (Destin; & 850/837- rant occupies a small bungalow
2022): The food isn’t gourmet at built in the 1880s that is still in
this cedar-shingled shack, whose possession of the original black
long porch offers glorious beach cypress paneling in its central hall-
and Gulf views, but this is where way. Nightly specials emphasize
charcoal-grilled amberjack origi- fresh local seafood and New
nated. Today, you’ll see it on Orleans–style sauces. Chef Eddie
menus throughout Florida. Other received more than 2,000 orders
fish and seafood, as well as chicken for his spicy seafood gumbo at a
and juicy hamburgers, also come recent Florida Seafood Festival.
from the coals. See p. 637. See p. 655.
13 The Best Local Dining Experiences
• Azul (downtown Miami; & 305/ cuisine and hearty conversation.
913-8254): Topping nearly every See p. 142.
food critic’s best of list is this culi- • The Green Turtle Inn (Islam-
nary tour de force overlooking orada; & 305/664-9031): Tasty
Biscayne Bay and located in the turtle chowder, campy pianist
posh Mandarin Oriental. Star chef Tina Martin, and a handful of
Michelle Bernstein’s global fusion friendly, colorful locals contribute
fare is a marvel that has elevated to this quintessential Keys land-
Miami to a new level of Epicurean mark. See p. 223.
idolatry. See p. 137. • Islamorada Fish Company
• BED (South Beach; & 305/532- (Islamorada; & 800/258-2559 or
9070): Eating in bed will never 305/664-9271): We’re not sure
be the same once you’ve experi- which is better—the view or the
enced this restaurant-cum-night- seafood—but whichever it is, it’s a
club whose name stands for winning combination. See p. 224.
Beverage, Entertainment, and • Blue Heaven (Key West; & 305/
Dining, where the food is indeed 296-8666): What was once a
served in beds and not on tables. well-kept secret in Key West’s
See p. 120. Bahama Village is now a popular
• Big Fish (downtown Miami; eatery known for fresh food
& 305/373-1770): Located on (it’s some of the best in town)
the Miami River across from the and a motley, bohemian crowd.
spectacular Miami skyline, Big See p. 253.
Fish is indeed just that, in a little • Mai Kai (Fort Lauderdale; & 954/
pond—or river—whose scenic 563-3272): At this fabulous ves-
value is priceless. See p. 138. tige of Polynesian kitsch, you’re
• Versailles (Little Havana; & 305/ expected to forget that you’re in the
444-0240): This iconoclastic middle of a tacky stretch of Fort
Cuban diner isn’t as swanky as its Lauderdale and pretend you’re
palatial French namesake, but it is somewhere in Hawaii or Tahiti as
full of mirrors, through which hula dancers and fire-eaters enter-
you can view the colorful—and tain and potent and sickly sweet
audible—Cuban clientele that cocktails are served in coconuts.
congregates here for down-home See p. 301.You can also read
