WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be

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WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
wab
 wallonia and brussels
  summer 2019

                                        magazine
 Discover a region that combines
 technical knowhow with quality of life

WHERE
THE WILD
FOOD GROWS
EXPLORE THE WORLD OF EDIBLE PLANTS
WITH CUISINE SAUVAGE
                Wallonia boosts its horse industry thanks
                to new EquisFair business cluster
                Couture lingerie designer Carine Gilson
                shares her passion for lace and silk
WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
.CONTENTS

                                                                                                                               6

                                                                                                                                           © Alexis Haulot
Editorial                                                       Wallonia and Brussels - Contact
                                                                AWEX Wallonia Export-Investment Agency
Named Walloon of the Year 2018, Thomas Dermine (above)
                                                                www.awex.be
is a champion of his home city, Charleroi. The head of busi-
ness accelerator Catch, he is playing a key role in the reju-   WBI Wallonie-Bruxelles International
venation of the former industrial region by creating jobs at    www.wbi.be
the former Caterpillar site. The 32-year-old tells us why he    Welcome Offices
returned to Charleroi and why the city is such an attractive    www.investinwallonia.be
prospect, on both a personal and professional front. Simi-
larly looking to boost business is the new Walloon cluster
EquisFair, the topic of our Focus. Gathering various players
from across the region’s horse industry, its mission is to
shine a light on the flourishing sector around the world.

In our culture and lifestyle section there’s no shortage of
creativity combined with business sense. Prolific animation
studio nWave in Brussels specialises in feature films, while
lingerie designer Carine Gilson transforms the finest lace      Editor Sarah Crew
and silk into chic creations. In Namur, Cuisine Sauvage is      Deputy editor Sally Tipper
winning over food lovers to the benefits of cooking with        Reporters Lisa Bradshaw, Andy Furniere, Betina Kiefer, Clodagh Kinsella,
wild plants. And with plenty of ideas in our cultural agenda    Paul McNally, Ian Mundell, Tomáš Miklica, Saffina Rana
for making the most of the season, we wish you an excellent     Art director Liesbet Jacobs
summer!                                                         Managing director Hans De Loore

    Don’t forget to download the WAB                            AWEX/WBI and Ackroyd Publications
    magazine app, available for Android                         Pascale Delcomminette – AWEX/WBI
    and iOS. Go to Google Play or iTunes                        Marie-Catherine Duchêne
    and keep up-to-date with news and                           AWEX, Place Sainctelette 2, 1080 Brussels, Belgium
    events in Wallonia and Brussels                             Tel: 00.32(0)2.421.85.76, Fax: 00.32(0)2.421.83.93
                                                                Email: mc.duchene@awex.be

2                                                                                                    wallonia and brussels magazine
WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
8                               4 News and business updates
                                    from around the region

                                    6  Profile: Thomas Dermine on
                                    regenerating his home town of
                                    Charleroi

                                    8 Technochim’s cutting-edge
                                    coating is winning international
                                    attention

                                    10 Orgenesis is blazing a trail in
                                    cell therapy

                                    12 Sustainable medical waste
                                    disposal is the name of the game
                                    for AMB Ecosteryl

   16                               14 Innovative tech incubator WSL
                                    continues to win accolades

                                    15 Meet the Brussels expat:
                                    Wallonia through the eyes of keen
                                    photographer Sebastian Boatca

                                    16 New business cluster EquisFair
                                    is raising the profile of the horse
                                    industry in the region

                                    20 Virtual Park brings virtual
                                    reality to the mainstream
              © FEI/Dirk Caremans

                                    22 Animation studio nWave is
                                    doing things its own way

                                    24  The founder of Cuisine
   22                               Sauvage is wild about foraging

                                    26 Carine Gilson on her delicate
                                    designer lingerie

                                    28 Panorama: Chevetogne nature
                                    park enjoys a year of celebrations

                                    30   Our pick of cultural events in
                                    Wallonia and Brussels
              © Kmeron

                                    Cover: Wild food with Cuisine Sauvage
                                    (c) Maxime H - Photographe Culinaire

SUMMER 2019                                                                 3
WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
.NEWS

        SLEEP ON THE WILD
        SIDE AT PAIRI DAIZA
        Pairi Daiza is offering an immersive wildlife
        experience with a 50-room resort in its Last
        Frontier themed zone. The 26-room Pad-
        dling Bear Hotel and 24 Indian-style wood-
        en houses, lodges and suites provide guests
        with close-up views of the animals. The new
        facilities at the zoo and botanical gardens in
        Brugelette, Hainaut, opened in the spring.

        pairidaiza.eu

                                                                                                                                                         © Courtesy Natagora
                                                              Sheep to help Gaume’s
                                                              restored gardens grow
© CID

        SUMMER FUN FOR                                        A crowdfunding campaign to breed sheep that will graze the Gau-
        ALL THE FAMILY                                        me’s nature reserves has reached its funding target. The animals
                                                              will help maintain the region’s lawns and meadows that have
        The Grand-Hornu industrial site in Hainaut
                                                              been restored as part of the European grasslands programme, Life
        opens to families this season with a packed
        programme of activities. In addition to design        Herbages. In June, nature protection organisation Natagora inau-
        and contemporary art at CID and MAC’s, vis-           gurated a sheepfold in Fratin where the sheep will be raised.
        itors can explore the former coalmine, play
        outdoor games, join in creative workshops
        and sit back in a deckchair for an aperitif with
        books and magazines. Two-Michelin-star chef
        Sang Hoon Degeimbre has taken over the             DARDENNE BROTHERS PICK UP
        kitchen at the site’s cafe-restaurant and picnic   DIRECTOR PRIZE AT CANNES
        baskets are supplied to enjoy in the grounds.
                                                           Liège filmmakers Luc and Jean-Pierre Dardenne – who have
        grand-hornu.eu                                     twice won the coveted Palme d’Or – took the Best Director prize
                                                           for Young Ahmed at the Cannes Film Festival in May. Set in Wal-
                                                           lonia, the film follows the story of a Muslim teenager who tries to
        3D-PRINTED AERO                                    kill his teacher after being indoctrinated by a radicalised imam.
        PART A WORLD FIRST                                 Jean-Pierre Dardenne: “What interested us was religious fanati-
                                                           cism and the possibility of rehabilitation for this boy.”
        Liège high-tech aerospace company Safran
        Aero Boosters has been awarded certifica-
        tion for its lubrication unit equipped with        TOP FRENCH HONOUR FOR
        a 3D-printed metal casing. Director-general
        François Lepot said the certification was a
                                                           NAMUR CONDUCTOR
        world first and the unit was currently flying      The artistic director of the Namur Chamber Choir, Leonardo
                                                                                                                                                          © Vincent Arbelet

        on Airbus A320s. “This is a major step for-        Garcia Alarcon, has been made a Knight of the Order of Arts and
        ward from a technical point of view,” he said,     Letters by the French state. The Argentinian orchestra leader re-
        announcing the news at the Paris Air Show          ceived the honour after a performance by the choir at the Palace
        in June.                                           of Versailles.

        4                                                                                                               wallonia and brussels magazine
WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
SCIENCE BRIEFS

                                                                                                                                        A team from the applied sciences
                                                                                                                                        faculty at Liège University has de-
                                                                                                                                        veloped an ultra-eco-friendly vehicle
                                                                                                                                        that will compete in this summer’s
© Julien Mattia/Le Pictorium/Belga

                                                                                                                                        Shell Eco-Marathon in London. The
                                                                                                                                        international competition sees en-
                                                                                                                                        gineers and scientists try to achieve
                                                                                                                                        the longest distance with the lowest
                                                                                                                                        energy consumption. Liège has par-
                                                                                                                                        ticipated for the past 15 years and
                                                                                                                                        last year narrowly missed out on the
                                                                                                                                        top three.

                                                                                                                                        A pharmacy professor at ULB has

                                     WALLOON COMPANY AIDS NOTRE-DAME
                                                                                                                                        patented a process to manufacture
                                                                                                                                        personalised medicines using a 3D
                                     Gaume company Artbois received an emergency call to supply 10 wooden beams to help                 printer. Jonathan Goole’s research
                                     shore up the walls of the fire-damaged Notre-Dame cathedral in Paris in April. When a blaze        shows how 3D printing makes it pos-
                                     ravaged the ancient building, destroying its spire and most of its roof, there were fears that     sible to produce drugs in small batch-
                                     the walls would collapse. “We were called at 14.00, we received the plans at 15.30 and we cut      es with a specific dosage, or with a
                                     to size some beams that we had in stock for another site,” owner Patrick Vanhorenbeeck told        specific coating to promote faster or
                                     local media. Artbois, specialists in glue-laminated timber work, delivered the 20m beams           slower absorption. This could pave
                                     during the night in a special convoy that arrived early the following morning. “It concerned       the way for safe and effective person-
                                     one of the most beautiful timber structures in the world. It was necessary to do the maxi-         alised treatment.
                                     mum to preserve what remained,” Vanhorenbeeck said. Based in Etalle, Luxembourg prov-
                                     ince, Artbois has since been called on to further lend its technical expertise to the cathedral,   A UCLouvain researcher has won
                                     which is to eventually undergo restoration.                                                        the Prix Galien, Belgium’s prize for
                                                                                                                                        the best research in pharmacology,
                                     artbois.be                                                                                         for his work on targeting cancer cell
                                                                                                                                        metabolism. Judges said Cyril Cor-
                                                                                                                                        bet’s research was a welcome boost
                                                                                                                                        in the fight against cancer and cre-
                                     NEW WINE STORE FOR                                                                                 ates new perspectives for the future
                                     ORGANIC PRODUCER                                                                                   of cancer treatment. It is the fourth
                                                                                                                                        time UCLouvain’s pharmacology and
                                     Organic wine domain Château de Bousval has inaugu-                                                 therapeutic centre has won the pres-
                                     rated a new building for wine production, from press-                                              tigious prize.
                                     ing to bottling. Set in the rolling hills of Walloon Bra-
                                     bant, the 5.2-hectare vineyard celebrated the opening                                              A ULB engineering student is head-
                                     at the end of May with an exhibition of contemporary                                               ing to New York in July to compete in
                                     art by the Esther Verhaege Gallery. Architect Char-                                                the world cup of Fortnite, a popular
                                     ly Wittock, founder of the firm AWAA, designed the                                                 online video game. Howard Castiaux
                                     building to merge into the countryside, which bor-                                                 and his Swiss team-mate, Jérémy
                                     ders the Natura 2000 zone. Said Wittock of the sloped,                                             Dang, made the top 100, from almost
                                     green-roofed concrete and wood structure: “We locat-                                               3,000 players worldwide, to qualify
                                     ed it in such a way that it followed the topography of                                             for the final. Castiaux spends three to
                                     the land and we could work with gravity. This means                                                five hours a day playing and a similar
                                                                                                 © Château de Bousval

                                     we don’t use any mechanical motor to displace liq-                                                 amount of time working on strategy.
                                     uid.” The winery is open to the public on reservation                                              A $30 million cash prize awaits the
                                     and the first harvest is expected in 2020.                                                         winner.

                                     chateaudebousval.be

                                     SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                                  5
WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
.PROFILE

     IN THE SPOTLIGHT
     Thomas Dermine
     The 32-year-old Harvard graduate from
     Charleroi received the Destrée Institute’s
     Bologna-Lemaire Walloon of the Year
     2018 award for his role in boosting the
     economy of his home town

6                                                 wallonia and brussels magazine
WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
“
                                           Charleroi is my home town,
                                           the city of my heart

                                           What does the award signify?                      consultancy career in London when
                                           Although it was awarded to me, it’s really an     they called. What made you decide to
                                           award for the collective efforts of my team       leave it for Charleroi?
                                           and me at Catch to accelerate job creation        Where I find meaning in my professional
                                           in Charleroi. The decline of heavy industries     life is very important to me. Charleroi is my
                                           across Europe hit Charleroi particularly          home town and the city of my heart. I felt
                                           hard, because of their concentration in the       there was deep value in stepping up to the
                                           region. The city’s socio-economic condition       difficult challenge of working on its socio-
                                           then reached a crisis point in 2016 with the      economic development.
                                           thousands of job losses that came with the
                                           closure of the Caterpillar plant. The plan is     What’s the best piece of advice you’ve
                                           to generate 6,000-8,000 new jobs by 2025          ever had?
                                           in new industries. In May 2019 we were            When I was a teenager, one of my teachers
                                           slightly ahead, having already reached more       in Charleroi told me, “If you’re the smartest
                                           than two-thirds of our objective, so we are       kid at the table, then you’re not at the right
                                           confident we can do it.                           table”. It led me in deciding whether to
                                                                                             return to Charleroi. I asked myself where
                                           What are the challenges?                          I would be most challenged and learn the
                                           The new jobs are completely different from        most.
                                           the blue-collar jobs that are disappearing.
                                           All sorts of creative and biotech industries      What’s your work-life philosophy?
                                           had started appearing in Charleroi by 2016,       Life is too short not to do the things you
                                           but there was a paradox – their growth            love. If you love the things you do, you will
                                           was impeded because they couldn’t find            naturally be good at them.
                                           people with the right qualifications and
                                           skills locally to fill positions, yet there was   What’s next? Will you stay in Charleroi?
                                           huge unemployment in Charleroi among              I will stay. I have already moved my whole
                                           young people. The biggest challenge               family out here. I’m not too worried about
                                           remains changing curricula, designing             finding another interesting challenge
                                           empowerment programmes and training               here, in the public or private sector. I left
                                           to make sure we have the right workforce          Charleroi when I was 18 for university. I
                                           for these jobs. The challenge at the heart of     came back at 31 and I’m very surprised by
                                           all this is to break down the walls between       how dynamic the city is. There’s a vibrant
                                           public and private institutions, and between      cultural scene, a huge city centre renewal,
                                           people.                                           and a buzz that makes you feel like you’re
              © Maxime Asselberghs/Belga

                                                                                             at the centre of something new happening.
                                           The Walloon government asked you                  to the city And it’s practically an extended
                                           to help create the plan in 2016, after            suburb of Brussels: it’s only 40 minutes away,
                                           a paper you wrote at Harvard in 2014              it’s cheaper to live in, with good schools and
                                           exploring multi-stakeholder measures              a good quality of life.
                                           to reduce youth unemployment in
                                           Belgium. But you had a high-profile               catch-charleroi.be

SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                             7
WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
.WORK

Royal treatments
Technochim wins innovation award for its
multi-functional coating
By Andy Furniere

T
       echnochim, a specialist in surface       of advanced treatments of metals – to in-      used to make vaccines risks contaminating
       treatments, has won the prestigious      crease their resistance to corrosion or for    those vaccines and introducing polluted sub-
       Innovation Prize at the Contamin         decorative purposes. The company first         stances into people’s bodies,” says Frédéric
Expo trade show in Paris. The company,          made a name for itself with a unique solu-     Groulard, CEO of Technochim. “We are the
based in Ghislenghien in Hainaut, was rec-      tion against rouging, a complex form of cor-   only company in the world with a treatment
ognised for its cutting-edge ceramic coat-      rosion found in stainless steel, which poses   against all forms of rouging, including the
ing Coatix.                                     particular problems in the pharmaceutical      most complicated type to remove, known as
                                                sector.                                        Class III rouging.”
For 11 years, Technochim has been expand-
ing its status as a leader in the development   “Rouging of pharmaceutical installations       This expertise gained the Walloon enter-

8                                                                                                         wallonia and brussels magazine
WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
prise a firm reputation in the European            With the Coatix ceramic coating, Techno-         erties can prevent many people from being
pharma sector, with high-level clients             chim is further consolidating its position       infected by illnesses that are otherwise spread
such as GSK Vaccines and Sanofi Pasteur.           on the global market of surface treatments.      around more easily in such places.”
Throughout the years, the firm has ac-             Coatix is a smart coating, with various func-
quired knowhow in a wide range of treat-           tions that can be adjusted according to          Technochim is already developing the next
ment techniques, like degreasing, pickling,        needs. It can be applied to metal surfaces as    generation of Coatix, which staff will be able to
passivation, electropolishing, mechanical          well as plastic and glass.                       apply more easily in situ because no oven will
polishing and shot blasting. It also took                                                           be needed to produce it – instead UV lamps
over its supplier of chemical products,            “Coatix can for example be water-repellent       will suffice to solidify the coating.
Derustinox.                                        or very water-absorbent,” says Groulard.
                                                   “We can ensure that it inhibits the growth       The company is also launching itself into
Thanks to the expansion of its competences,        of bacteria on surfaces and can integrate co-    the world of 3D printing, specifically in the
Technochim now offers its services to clients      loured zones, for example red and blue areas     aviation industry. Its chemical solutions can
all over Europe, including in France, the UK,      to warn technicians about which parts of         help to make the printed surfaces of aircraft
Spain, Italy, Germany and Ireland. The compa-      the equipment are too hot to handle without      parts smoother and more polished, a com-
ny also teams up with the European division        hand protection.”                                mon challenge with current 3D printing
of American multinational Steris. At the time                                                       technology. In this domain, Technochim is
of writing, a team from Technochim was also        Pharmaceutical companies are again an            working with a top aircraft engines enter-
preparing to leave for Russia, where they were     important target group, but Coatix is useful     prise based in Wallonia.
to carry out maintenance of a particle acceler-    in a range of industries. In Dubai, a gold-co-
ator known as a cyclotron. It has carried out      loured Coatix coating will give a commer-        technochim.eu
similar operations in the US and South Korea       cial centre the look of a palace, while also
as well, collaborating with med-tech company       making the surfaces easy to clean. Closer
IBA of Louvain-la-Neuve.                           to home, Belgian airports are interested in
                                                   the coating to make stainless steel surfaces
While the pharmaceutical sector remains an         easy to clean.
important market, Technochim has drasti-
cally enlarged its scope. Its services are being   “Public spaces such as airports and healthcare
used in the construction, chemical, agri-food,     organisations like hospitals can benefit from
energy, metallurgy, aviation, space, luxury and    Coatix for another important reason,” says

“
design industries.                                 Groulard. “The coating’s antibacterial prop-

We are the only company in the world with
a treatment against all forms of rouging
SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                                      9
WHERE THE WILD FOOD GROWS - Wallonia.be
.WORK

              Cell culture
              Global trailblazer in cell therapy sets
              up shop in Liège
              By Andy Furniere

          O
                      rgenesis, an international pioneer     the US, focuses on finding solutions against   fices at Accessia Pharma, which provides in-
                      in cell therapy, has set up a daugh-   insulin-dependent diabetes, known as type      frastructure for pharma and biotech compa-
                      ter company in Liège to support the    1 diabetes.                                    nies, is Orgenesis’s second major initiative in
              development of its innovative POCare cell                                                     Wallonia. In 2015, it took over MaSTherCell
              therapy platform. The Nasdaq-listed com-       The foundation of its subsidiary Orgenesis     Belgium in Charleroi, a spin-off of the Free
              pany, with Israeli roots and headquarters in   Belgium, consisting of laboratories and of-    University of Brussels (ULB) that specialis-
© Orgenesis

              10                                                                                                       wallonia and brussels magazine
es in manufacturing cell therapy products        “We are excited to further expand in Wal-           lighted the advantages provided by BioWin,
on an industrial scale. While MaSTherCell        lonia, a leading centre for talent and R&D          Wallonia’s health competitiveness cluster.
Belgium functions as a service provider, Or-     within Europe,” says Vered Caplan, the CEO
genesis Belgium will focus on research and       of Orgenesis (pictured). “The opening of our        The increased interest of major players shows
development. The Walloon subsidiary will         new offices and laboratories will strengthen        how Wallonia is positioning itself as a Euro-
boost the creation of new autologous cell        the roll-out of our POCare strategy across          pean front-runner in cell therapy. In this re-
therapies, used to treat patients with their     Europe.”                                            spect, the region can also benefit greatly from
own cells.                                                                                           Belgium’s recent modification of the law re-
                                                 Efrat Assa Kunik, general manager of Orgen-         garding access to human cells and tissues to
Orgenesis is a pioneer in the process of         esis Belgium, says “the POCare strategy can         produce allogenic cell therapies – when donor
transdifferentiation or cell reprogramming,      help to significantly reduce development            cells are used to treat various patients – for
whereby a cell is converted into another         costs through joint ventures with local part-       medical applications or scientific research.
type of cell to treat patients. The compa-       ners who bring strong regional networks.
ny has the knowhow to transform a type           These networks include partnerships with            Belgian companies can now obtain or im-
1 diabetes patient’s own liver cells into in-    local hospitals, which allow us to engage in        port these human materials in a more
sulin-producing cells. People with type 1        continuous in-licensing of autologous thera-        transparent way. As a consequence, more
diabetes struggle to produce the hormone         pies from academic and research institutes,         patients will benefit from the innovations in
insulin and as a result can’t obtain the ener-   and to use hospital networks for the clinical       cell therapy. “Thanks to this new legislation,
gy they need from glucose. The transdiffer-      development of new therapies.”                      Belgium reinforces its unique eco-system
entiation technique can be used for other                                                            involved in the research and development
pathologies as well.                             At the presentation of its new Walloon              of cell therapies,” says Frédéric Druck, secre-
                                                 daughter company, the Orgenesis team cit-           tary general of biotech sector federation bio.
Specifically, the Walloon team will support      ed different reasons for choosing the region        be/essenscia. “It makes it even more attrac-
the development of Orgenesis’s Point of Care     as a base. Among them were the central              tive for local enterprises to develop activities
(POCare) cell therapy platform. The POCare       position in Europe, the logistics infrastruc-       in this field and for international companies
strategy aims to integrate the process of col-   ture, the focus on innovative research, the         to start up a European production unit for
lecting, processing and administering cells      large pool of life-sciences specialists, the tai-   cell therapy here.”
within the patient care setting for therapeu-    lor-made facilities and the ability to quickly

“
tic treatment.                                   set up clinical trials. Orgenesis also high-        orgenesis.com

We are excited to further expand in
Wallonia, a leading centre for talent and
R&D within Europe
SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                                      11
.WORK

Waste not
A family company in Mons is transforming waste
disposal around the world
By Betina Kiefer

A
          MB Ecosteryl is a family company          tion to operate,” says Andrew Cantillo E, AMB’s    chines operate continuously, with no need to
          based in Mons that specialises in         sales manager in the Americas, who is based        add waste in batches, and can be operational
          developing and producing solutions        in Brussels. “No water, no gas, no fuel or other   24/7. After shredding, waste is brought into
to sustainably process and recycle medical          chemical products are required.” This process      a microwave zone then placed in a tempera-
waste. Established in 1947 as a manufacturer        also creates no contaminated by-products,          ture-controlled hopper for an hour until it is
of machinery for extraction industries, AMB         such as wastewater or chemicals.                   fully decontaminated. It is then added to a
moved into the environmental sector after                                                              container. In this process, waste can be re-
the decline of mining companies locally. It         The process begins with automated weigh-           duced to up to a fifth of its original volume.
has been developing environmentally friendly        ing and loading of waste, which then goes
technology to process medical waste over the        through a four-shaft shredder system.              About 90% of waste processed by Ecosteryl
past 17 years                                       “This shredding feature, combined with             equipment is reused, instead of going into
                                                    the heating of waste through the action of         landfill or being incinerated. Its process is
AMB offers a unique and sustainable process         microwaves, gives the opportunity to select        suitable for a wide array of regulated medi-
in its field, which has traditionally been reluc-   polypropylene and other plastics after de-         cal waste, except when it is nuclear or toxic.
tant to innovate. Most medical waste is incin-      contamination to recycle it or recover it,”        Neo-Ecosteryl, AMB’s latest technology, inte-
erated, a process that is known to be environ-      Cantillo says. This is advantageous, as these      grates recycling into its process. After decon-
mentally unfriendly. “The first innovation is       plastics have a significant resale value.          tamination, medical waste is separated by
the reduction achieved in the use of resources,                                                        type or colour. This allows waste to be com-
as our units only need a low power consump-         The second main innovation is that the ma-         mercialised as input for medical packaging,
                                                                                                       plastic, energy generation or cement kilns.

                                                                                                       AMB also provides services to ensure opti-
                                                                                                       mal operations and maintenance. When its
                                                                                                       machinery is shipped to clients, AMB sends
                                                                                                       engineers to provide local training on opera-
                                                                                                       tions and maintenance. The Ecosteryl team
                                                                                                       provides maintenance and support remotely,
                                                                                                       through integrated internet access installed in
                                                                                                       all its machinery and on-site visits for clients
                                                                                                       are also possible. The equipment can be in-
                                                                                                       stalled in less than two days, and can be easily
                                                                                                       disassembled for relocation. Its machinery is
                                                                                                       long-lasting, and the first Ecosteryl machine
                                                                                                       ever installed in France is still operational.

                                                                                                       Despite AMB’s field of expertise, most of
                                                                                                       its clients are not healthcare facilities but
                                                                                                       usually major environmental companies
                                                                                                       specialising in waste management of dan-
                                                                                                       gerous materials. A smaller portion include

12                                                                                                                 wallonia and brussels magazine
hospitals looking for cost-effective solutions
for their waste, as well as the public sector,
such as health and environment ministries.

“Today we have a solid client network from
America to Africa, Asia and Europe,” says Can-
tillo. “We are leaders in France, covering most
of the alternative technologies industry. Our
biggest ambition is to better valorise medical
waste worldwide. This is why we offer the in-
dustry cutting-edge solutions to decontami-
nate medical waste and then to recycle it.”

ecosteryl.com

“
Our biggest ambition is to better valorise
medical waste worldwide
                                                  13
SUMMER 2019
.WORK

Start me up
Wallonia’s tech incubator is one of the
best- performing in the world
By Sarah Crew

F
       ounded in 2000 by the Walloon govern-      in Liège Science Park, it is now present in    sidering the size of the region. “Over the
       ment, tech incubator WSL has been          Charleroi, Gembloux, Louvain-la-Neuve,         years, we have developed a field laboratory,
       ranked among the highest performing        Mons and Namur. It provides technical as-      built on a network of start-ups that form
incubators in the world. A study carried out      sistance to tech companies that want to de-    our community. We accompany them n the
in 2017 and 2018 by the international associ-     velop both in Wallonia and abroad.             long term while maintaining our capacity
ation UBI Global placed it in the top two ac-                                                    to innovate,” she says.
cording to criteria such as turnover, retention   Collaboration is at the heart of the incuba-
rate in Wallonia, access to investors and the     tor. Originally set up to launch university    Flémal underlines future challenges for
variety of services offered.                      spin-offs within the space sector, its mis-    WSL in calling for continuing and in-
                                                  sion expanded to other partners, including     creased support of long-term projects con-
WSL has a total annual turnover of                institutions of higher education, the Wal-     nected to Deep Technology, in particular
€607 million and supports engineering sci-        loon Export and Foreign Investment Agen-       from their launch. Deep Technology relates
ence projects across Wallonia. It boasts a        cy (Awex) and the region’s various compet-     to innovation based on substantial scien-
survival rate for its techno-entrepreneur         itive clusters.                                tific advances directly or indirectly linked
companies of 95%, with an annual job cre-                                                        to major planetary and societal issues that
ation rate of 11%. Employing 866 people           According to director-general Agnès Flémal     require long-term, large investment.
directly and 2,000 indirectly, WSL is spread      (pictured), WSL occupies a world-re-
across the region. From its original site         nowned position, which is impressive con-      wsl.be

14                                                                                                         wallonia and brussels magazine
MEET THE BRUSSELS EXPAT

                        B
                                efore arriving in Belgium, I studied      exhibition and in two group exhibitions
                                in Romania and Switzerland; I also        with colleagues. I’m already thinking about
                                worked and lived for a short period       two future exhibitions on projects I started
                        in Norway, then moved back to Romania.            while visiting Japan. Time is always insuffi-
                        Brussels has been my city since 2015, when        cient, with a full-time job and being a hus-
                        my wife obtained a work contract. Adapt-          band and a father, but if there is a will…
                        ing to a new country, city and culture can
                        be demanding, but it is always easier for         There are always captivating things to dis-
                        those who love to travel, those who have al-      cover here. Not only from a photographic
                        ready lived in different cities and countries     point of view, but when the weather is fine,
                        and who embrace the changes for a better,         almost every weekend is an opportunity for
                        more interesting and challenging life.            my family to enjoy the recreational activi-
                                                                          ties. Wallonia is very beautiful and every
                        I work in the secretariat of a unit of one        time we have the opportunity, we leave
                        of the directorates of the European Com-          Brussels to enjoy a nice weekend as a fam-
                        mission. I especially like working with col-      ily, changing from residents into tourists.
  Sebastian Boatca      leagues of so many nationalities – the mul-       Villers Abbey is one of our favourite places
                        ticultural work environment has always            to visit. I have made several series of photo-
  from Romania is       been captivating to me. And I’m a passion-        graphs there and with Viewfinders I visited
                        ate photographer, continuously looking for        a moving photography exhibition, outside
  making the most       inspiration. I love to travel; travel photog-     among the ruins. The High Fens boardwalk
  of the latest stop    raphy is one of the most solid parts of my        is a very quiet, calm place. We sometimes
                        portfolio. Travelling, apart from enriching       stop there while going from Eupen (which
  on an international   your life, also helps to make the world a bit     is a nice city) to Aachen. And Liège has a
                        smaller, easier to understand. Before mov-        certain unique flavour, something we al-
  journey               ing to Belgium, I contacted Viewfinders           ways sense and, I might say, truly specific
                        photography club in Brussels and joined           to this town. I’ve had the best French fries
                        as soon as I arrived here. My passion and         in Liège, and the waffle has another signifi-
                        involvement in the club saw me become             cance when savoured there.
                        an associate committee member, then
                        vice-president, with an active role in or-        And let’s not forget that by car, in less than
                        ganising the club’s activities: writing for the   two hours, we can visit beautiful places in
                        monthly newsletter, making public presen-         France, Germany, Luxembourg or the Neth-
                        tations, preparing workshops, exhibitions         erlands. Each time such an opportunity
                        and much more.                                    arises, it means more material in my port-
                                                                          folio, not to mention more beautiful memo-
                        Since coming to Belgium, I’m proud to have        ries with my family.
                        had two solo photography exhibitions, to
                        have participated in a Viewfinders group          sebastianboatca.com

                        “
                        Travelling helps to make
                        the world a bit smaller,
                        easier to understand
SUMMER 2019                                                                                                        15
.FOCUS

Free rein
Wallonia boosts its
equine economy with
new EquisFair business
cluster
By Sarah Crew

W
                        ith the aim of exploit-   units with a common goal of partnership,          agricultural ministry revealed its enormous
                        ing the economic po-      joint projects and international visibility.      potential,” he says. He believes the sector’s
                        tential of the region’s   EquisFair – the seventh business cluster in       image needs updating because of its reputa-
                        horse industry, the       the region – benefits from a three-year sub-      tion as an elite activity. “Horses are part of
                        EquisFair business        sidy from the Walloon economy ministry.           many people’s lives, whether it be for plea-
cluster was launched at Liège Airport in                                                            sure or participation in international com-
February this year. While equine activities       The region has a long tradition of horse          petition. Economic activities around horses
in the region are already renowned for their      breeding, and the equine industry generates       are very diverse and they merit being show-
quality and quantity, the sector’s objective      more than €1 billion a year. But it remains un-   cased.”
is to further elevate its image at home and       derexploited, according to one of the cluster’s
abroad.                                           founders, Jean-Philippe Lejeune, technical di-    Belgium’s speciality is the breeding of
                                                  rector of the European Horse Centre at Mont-      show-jumping horses, Lejeune says. “The
Wallonia’s business clusters are economic         le-Soie in Luxembourg province.                   country’s three studbooks are regularly fea-
hubs that bring together companies, train-                                                          tured in the top ten of world rankings. While
ing centres and public or private research        “A recent study by the centre for the Walloon     there are a few larger stud farms, the aver-

16                                                                                                             wallonia and brussels magazine
© Victor Krijt
                                                                               • Lara de Liedekerke at the 2018 World Equestrian Games

age breeder in Wallonia owns two or three           ing members, the 14 active members reflect    between Wallonia and Flanders, France,
breeding mares, which produce the same              the depth and diversity of the local equine   the Netherlands, Germany and Luxem-
number of foals each year,” he says. The clus-      industry (see boxes on following pages).      bourg; and promoting the available space
ter is an excellent opportunity to boost the        A study by the European Horse Centre re-      in Wallonia that could be of interest to for-
sector and all its activities: “I believe it will   vealed the region's enormous potential.       eign investors.
improve its image, federate its businesses
and facilitate their access to financial aid for    The cluster aims to make the sector in Wal-   Other strategic priorities have been outlined,
research and export, as well as being a useful      lonia more professional, increase market-     which include encouraging innovation, re-
development tool at a local and internation-        ing and assist research and development in    inforcing commercial links and exploring
al level.”                                          new products. For opportunities abroad, it    new markets, sharing good practices, devel-
                                                    is focusing on three main areas: an export    oping partnerships and working groups ac-
Since its launch, EquisFair has attracted           strategy for high-value products such as      cording to certain topics, and creating syn-
considerable interest, with requests for in-        surgical and food supplements; an export      ergies with existing clusters and competitive
formation and membership from a variety             strategy for standard and high-quality        poles in the region. As part of the mission
of organisations. In addition to eight found-       products that will increase collaboration     to promote the sector at home and abroad,

SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                                17
.FOCUS

                                                                                                ACTIVE MEMBERS
   THE EUROPEAN HORSE CENTRE
                                                                                                Alcyon Belux supplies a complete
   The European Horse Centre in Luxembourg province was founded in 2000 to                      range of products to veterinary cen-
   promote horse breeding in Wallonia. A non-profit organisation, it is one of eight            tres.
   founding companies behind the cluster, and acts as an interface between horse                alcyonbelux.be
   breeders, equine businesses and various administrative bodies. It works closely
   with the province, Liège University – in particular the veterinary medicine depart-          BiopTis is active in equine health and
   ment – and the Equestrian League Wallonia Brussels.                                          performance, working with two Liège
                                                                                                University research centres.
   An important part of its remit is to carry out research and other services for the           bioptis.com
   agricultural ministry, annually evaluating and responding to problems raised by
   breeders in the region. Research includes examining orthopaedic pathologies                  Cavalo Concept is an outdoor and
   linked to growth, which have a significant economic impact for breeders. An addi-            sporting goods company that creates
   tional branch of the centre’s activities consists of training, participating in equine       designs for riders.
   promotional events powered by the Walloon region, and providing expertise to                 cavaloconcept.be
   Walloon Ecuries, which supports horse-breeders.
                                                                                                Ekism provides apps for riders with
   While the centre receives subsidies for these activities, it also offers private services,   identity data storage, an equipment and
   such as cross-country facilities for horses and riders and the organisation or partner-      feed checklist, a training and care diary
   ship of competitions and equestrian events. It is also an EU-certified reproduction          and financial project management.
   centre, handling the insemination of mares, embryo transfers and the production of           ekism.be
   frozen sperm from stallions according to strict sanitary and quality standards.
                                                                                                Tagalo is an app that reinforces the
   linalux-montlesoie.com                                                                       safety of outside riders in case of
                                                                                                accidents and falls.
                                                                                                tagalo.com

                                                                                                Equideo provides video and live-
an inventory of all actors is to be drawn up,    equestrian branch and research laborato-       streaming of horses and ponies.
and the cluster will identify the weaknesses     ry of the Conférence Liège Créative on 16      equideo.be
and strengths of the sector in Wallonia and      October, the technology economic mission
neighbouring regions to help develop the in-     to Texas, US from 23 to 25 October, Jump-      Kevin Bacon’s is a family business
ternational strategy.                            ing International de Liège from 29 October     making laurel hoof dressing products.
                                                 to 4 November, Fieracavalli International      kevinbacons.com
The cluster is already publicising its activ-    Horse Festival in Verona, Italy from 7 to
ities by taking part in events around the        10 November, and an economic mission to        SBS Studbook is a voluntary organi-
world, giving smaller businesses a chance        China led by Princess Astrid from 16 to 22     sation that keeps records for Belgian
to showcase themselves. Coming up on             November.                                      sporting horses, in particular show-
its agenda are participation at: Libramont                                                      jumpers.
Agricultural Fair from 26 to 29 July, the        equisfair.be                                   sbsnet.be

18                                                                                                      wallonia and brussels magazine
Trenker Labs is a pharmaceutical lab-
  oratory that produces and distributes
  medication and food supplements.
  trenker.be

  Roland Quoidbach is a safety coor-
  dinator specialised in equestrian pro-
  jects.
  coordinateursecuritechantier-
  quoidbach.be

  Compositi makes accessories for
  horses and riders.
  compositi.be

  Liège Airport’s purpose-built Horse

                                                                                                                                   © FEI/Dirk Caremans
  Inn provides overnight accommo-
  dation for the more than 3,000 hors-
  es that transit the freight hub each
  year.
  horse-inn-liege.com

  EEM World organises equestrian
  events and is the creator of the Masters   THE FOUNDERS
  Grand Slam brand and the Longines
  Masters.                                   The European Horse Centre is a publicly and privately funded facility that rep-
  eemworld.com                               resents and promotes the equine industry in Wallonia. linalux-montlesoie.com

  SA Clarenne Travaux specialises in         Delhez Bois/Cleanbox is the leading manufacturer of 100% natural, dust-free
  developing equestrian grounds.             and biodegradable wood shavings for stable boxes. delhezbois.be
  clarennetravaux.be
                                             EQScience offers a range of services for equine industry companies, ranging from
                                             science and healthcare to consulting, coaching, marketing and management sup-
                                             port. eqscience.com

                                             Moulin Georges sprl has been providing quality horse feed for 50 years and has
                                             recently developed complementary food. Its brands include Hippoforme and
                                             Kara. hippoforme.be

                                             Peter Müller DURAfence is a specialist supplier of custom-made wooden enclo-
  IN FIGURES                                 sures, sturdy fences and gates. petermuller.be

  €1.1m 	turnover of the equine             Progenus offers a full range of services to its partners for DNA research, from the
           sector in Wallonia                development of a test to a complete research project. progenus.be
  6,600 direct and indirect jobs
  2,200 businesses                           Revatis is a Liège University spin-off developing a system of regenerative veteri-
  77,233 	hectares of agricultural land     nary medicine. revatis.be
           (11% of total agricultural
           surface)                          Haras Sonnenhof is a stud farm that breeds, raises and trains horses. The family
  131,000 horses in Wallonia                 business is based in Saint Vith. sonnenhof.be

SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                   19
.TOURISM

Virtually real
Europe’s biggest virtual reality park has opened
in Mouscron
By Tomáš Miklica

V
        irtual reality (or VR) needs space.       scron, a city in Hainaut between the Bel-      huge difference compared to a home VR
        To set up a room-scale virtual re-        gian-French border and the Wallonia-Flan-      experience.”
        ality at home, you ideally need at        ders border, has thus become home to
least 3 square metres – so that you can           Europe’s largest virtual reality site.         The Virtual Park project was supported by
move or even walk during the experience                                                          the intercommunal association IEG and
without walking out on the immersion.             For the Verbaert brothers, this is a contin-   by Wapinvest. In total it hosts seven activ-
The more space you have, the better the           uation of their previous business venture      ities. Most of them are suitable for visitors
immersion, the stronger the experience,           in Tournai, Virtual Cabs. Except now, in-      over seven years old and built for a mul-
the greater the fun. But would hundreds           stead of four cabins with 15 square metres     tiplayer experience. Sensors ensure that
of square metres really mean hundreds of          of virtual reality, the two entrepreneurs      you know exactly where the barriers are
times the fun?                                    invite you to experience something that        and that you ‘see’ all the other players even
                                                  would be absolutely impossible to rec-         though you are cut off from the real world
Jean-Louis and Frédéric Verbaert decided          reate at home. “It’s a real 2.0 VR wireless    by the characteristic headset.
to find the answer, and built a virtual reality   immersion,” says Frédéric. “You can move,
park taking up 4,000 square metres. Mou-          feel and touch everything on your own. A       The games let you cooperate and compete.

20                                                                                                          wallonia and brussels magazine
wallonia and brussels magazine

Up to 40 players can fit into The Play-         technology that has yet to become main-      a new virtual world they enhance the re-
ground, a smart space of synchronised           stream, without the usual space limita-      al-word environment.
lighting and sound systems combining in-        tions and without the motion sickness
teractive games and exercise. Elsewhere,        linked to seated virtual reality games.      Virtual Park is open six days a week and
two players can race each other on Tron-        “Motion sickness can’t happen at Virtual     can host up to 300 people a day. As the
like bikes while 14 others can fight in a       Park because, in fact, you are moving for    virtual reality technology is developing
combat robots arena. And the co-found-          real in the space,” explains Frédéric.       constantly, the Verbaert brothers need to
er’s favourite? “At the moment, our best                                                     keep up with it. “We are always aware of
activity is Arena 42,” says Frédéric. In this   Additionally, the park prevents long ex-     the news around VR,” Frédéric says. “Fur-
full-body tracking experience, two teams        posure to virtual reality. “To avoid fa-     thermore, the structure of our park is not
of four players compete to conquer Mars.        tigue, our experiences are timed between     fixed. We have the possibility to progress
Its 400 square metres definitely give a new     five and twenty minutes and people have      the same way the VR technology will. Why
meaning to what a room-scale virtual re-        around fifteen minutes of break between      not dream about a fully immersive experi-
ality game is.                                  the activities.” Visitors can take a pause   ence spanning across all the 4,000 square
                                                from virtual reality during augmented re-    metres?”
All the activities encourage visitors to        ality (AR) experiences, too. These do not
stay for the day and enjoy to the fullest a     require a headset and rather than creating   virtualpark.eu

“
We have the possibility to progress the
same way the VR technology will

SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                       21
.CULTURE

Dream factory
A small independent animation
studio in Brussels is doing
things differently
By Ian Mundell

I
    n an unassuming Brussels street, not           big-screen animation, but Stassen thinks         as character modelling, movement, shading
    far from Midi station, you’ll find Eu-         both are a distraction. TV animation has to      and texturing, or building ‘special effects’
    rope’s most productive independent             be cheaper, with necessary concessions to        such as the movement of clothes or hair.
animation studio: nWave. Its latest feature        quality, while working for others means a loss
film, The Queen’s Corgi, is still in cinemas       of control.                                      “When we began in 1994, one animator would
around the world, and the next – a sequel                                                           work on all the different stages of a film, but
to 2017’s Son of Bigfoot – is well under way.      More importantly, making a steady stream         now it is more specialised and sophisticated,”
                                                   of features helps sustain nWave’s creative       Stassen explains.
“We always have two projects running, and          community. “Top animators want to keep
when we’re halfway through one feature film        working on feature films that are great qual-    nWave started out making computer-gen-
we have to start the next,” says Ben Stassen,      ity and shown all around the world,” he says.    erated attractions for places such as theme
co-founder of the studio and co-director of        “At nWave they can go from one feature to the    parks, and was an early specialist in stereo-
most of its movies.                                next. That has attracted some talented peo-      scopic 3D. Its first animated feature was Fly
                                                   ple, and created a sense of loyalty.”            Me to the Moon in 2008, about three young
nWave’s focus on feature films, all developed                                                       houseflies who hitch a ride on Apollo 11. This
in-house, sets it apart from most European         Roughly a third of nWave’s 120 digital anima-    was followed by two films about the undersea
animation studios. These tend to work for          tors are Belgian, a third French, and the rest   adventures of Sammy the Turtle, then House
hire on other people’s projects as well as their   drawn to Brussels from around the world.         of Magic, Robinson Crusoe and Son of Big-
own, or produce cartoons for TV alongside          They work in teams, specialising in tasks such   foot.

22                                                                                                             wallonia and brussels magazine
wallonia and brussels magazine
                                                                                                                                    SENSE OF SHARING   ACCESSIBILITY   TECHNICAL KNOW-HOW   QUALITY OF LIFE

                                                                                                  © Kmeron
                                                                                                             by the Tax Shelter incentive for investment in
                                                                                                             audiovisual productions.

                                                                                                             Yet despite these constraints, nWave’s ani-
                                                                                                             mators aspire to achieve Pixar’s quality. Tal-
                                                                                                             ent helps, but so does being ruthlessly effi-
                                                                                                             cient. Decision-making is streamlined, and
                                                                                                             last-minute changes are out of the question.
                                                                                                             “When we do something, we do it once, we
                                                                                                             don’t do it twice,” Stassen says.

                                                                                                             Meanwhile, the money is spent where best
                                                                                                             tells the story. For example, crowd scenes
                                                                                                             demand a lot of expensive animation, so
                                                                                                             when the Queen meets Donald Trump in The
                                                                                                             Queen’s Corgi, it is at a private dinner rather
                                                                                                             than a state banquet. But when Rex joins a
                                                                                                             canine Fight Club, the drama demands a lot
                                                                                                             of dogs, and that is where the animators have
                                                                                                             gone to town.
Its most recent feature film, The Queen’s Cor-    Making animated films for the global mar-
gi, tells the story of Rex, top dog at Bucking-   ket means nWave is inevitably compared to                  “We are not Pixar, but we are really proud of
ham Palace until he disgraces himself during      US giants such as Pixar. This can be tough                 our quality,” Stassen says. “And with our budg-
an official dinner with Donald Trump. Exiled      when Pixar has at least €100 million to spend              et, Pixar would barely make five minutes of a
to the streets of London, Rex has to find his     on each film, while nWave has €20 million                  film like The Queen’s Corgi.”
way back into the Palace, and the Queen’s         at most. This, incidentally, is an enormous
good books.                                       budget by Belgian standards, made possible                 nwavedigital.com

“
Top animators want to work on feature
films that are great quality and shown all
around the world
SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                                                                                 23
.GASTRONOMY

Growing wild
Cuisine Sauvage promotes edible plants with
foraging walks, cooking classes and gourmet
tours
By Sarah Crew

E
       nvironmental consultant turned          four to five plants that provides people       “Wild plants speak to us all as they touch
       wild food campaigner Lionel Raway       with some autonomy.” He adopts a prag-         on wellness and health, on pleasure, on
       believes he has found the perfect       matic approach to promoting the benefits       our purse, and it’s a multi-sensorial expe-
recipe for his non-profit wild plant asso-     of wild food. “Cooking with plants is not      rience to pick a plant, touch it, smell it and
ciation, Cuisine Sauvage. “By reconnecting     a religion or a dogma – we are not saying      eat it, which is the greatest connection to
people with nature, opening their minds        that they are better – simply that they also   nature.”
to the potential of harvesting plants, there   exist.”
is the possibility of some food self-suffi-                                                   The association, which was founded in
ciency,” he says.                              Benefitting from financial support from        2011, encourages the public as well as
                                               the Walloon Region, “which considers it        companies, school groups and chefs to in-
From the airy interior of the newly reno-      better to prevent than to heal”, Cuisine       troduce wild plants into their diet. Nature
vated cookery school in a villa on the out-    Sauvage’s underlying educational philoso-      walks and cookery classes are organised
skirts of Namur, Raway, a former teacher,      phy is presented in the form of a series of    in Brussels and Wallonia, available on de-
explains his philosophy: “A two-hour walk      leisure activities. “We are in the world of    mand in private homes in a programme
in the forest gives sufficient knowledge of    play, interactivity and exchange,” he says.    that runs from April to October.

24                                                                                                       wallonia and brussels magazine
wallonia and brussels magazine

Visible from the school’s windows, the
Mosan Valley is a perfect playground for
foraging and harvesting plants. “We visit
the sites, we pick plants, then we prepare
the various dishes in groups before eating
them together around this large commu-
nal table,” says Raway, indicating the knot-
ted blonde slab of wood that forms a con-
vivial centrepiece.

For discovery tours of gourmet wild plant
cooking, participants hop into go-karts,

                                                                                                                                            © Maxime H - Photographe culinaire
known as cuistax, for a carbon- and waste-
free experience around Namur’s historic
citadel. Catering for between 100 and 400
people, they have enormous potential for
international companies, says Raway:
“There are panoramic views of the valleys,
we explore underground tunnels, descend
the citadel’s streets and of course eat and
drink in some of the best restaurants that
are reserved for us.”

Namur has a gastronomic reputation and         around 10% are tasty. He prefers to con-      in plastic, delivered to stores, barcoded,
Cuisine Sauvage is popular with local          centrate on the last group, a nevertheless    transported by you and eventually thrown
chefs. “They want to be in the avant-garde     extensive list that includes wild garlic,     in the bin,” he says.
and see edible plants as a free and abun-      chervil, nettles, dandelions, garlic mus-
dant resource. When they prepare a dish        tard, cuckoo flower, chestnuts, poppies,      While there’s nothing new in the wild
with wild plants in their restaurants, they    pine, wild strawberries, daisies, hops, cob   plant movement – “it’s been around for
are serving as ambassadors,” he says. Hav-     nuts, wild sorrel, wild blackberries, sage    thousands of years” – Raway is convinced
ing also trained a chef and a naturalist, he   and elderflower.                              of its future: “Up to now, I had the feeling
appreciates their enthusiasm. “When we                                                       that eating wild plants was a marginal ac-
go into the woods and ask them to smell        One of these, nettles, grow abundantly        tivity. We know now that the planet is in
something, they immediately start imag-        in many a garden. Raway refers to it as       difficulty and we don’t know what we will
ining food pairings and that’s really fun;     an example of the long-term advantages        be eating and how we’re going to feed the
we learn something too.”                       of eating such produce. “By occasionally      world, but it’s clear that among the pan-
                                               eating nettle soup, there are two benefits:   oply of options, there are wild plants. It’s
One challenge for the association is help-     connecting with nature and reducing your      just necessary to give people the desire
ing people overcome their natural fear of      carbon footprint. For each kilo of vegeta-    to take advantage of the nature around
eating plants. While it’s frequently quoted    ble you produce yourself, that’s one kilo     them.”
that 96% of all plants are safe to consume,    that has not been grown, fertilized, har-
Raway says 80% are good to eat and only        vested, stocked, transported, wrapped         cuisinesauvage.org

“
By reconnecting people with nature, there is
the possibility of some food self-sufficiency
SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                        25
.DESIGN

                         Undress to impress
                         Carine Gilson’s couture lingerie mixes
                         old-school craft and contemporary chic
                         By Clodagh Kinsella

                                                                                            © Maison Carine Gilson
                                                                                            © Fashion & Lace Museum
© Maison Carine Gilson

                         26                                wallonia and brussels magazine
© Fashion & Lace Museum

S
     ince graduating from the fashion de-           Paul Poiret that had this whole orientalist in-     Carine Gilson. “Above all it was important to
     partment of Antwerp’s Royal Academy            fluence. It’s from there that I started working     show the style and vision of the label, and this
     of Fine Arts in 1988, Brussels-based de-       with kimonos – but creating ones with a more        dialogue with lace that I’ve had for nearly thir-
signer Carine Gilson has become synonymous          Western influence.”                                 ty years,” she says.
with the market of couture lingerie, turning
out one-of-a-kind garments from the finest          Other obsessions – Art Deco, the designer           Today, Gilson’s team produces 8,000 pieces a
French laces and silks.                             Madeleine Vionnet – have resurfaced over            year, all handmade by artisans in her Brussels
                                                    the years, as Gilson’s brand has expanded to        atelier with no recourse to outsourcing. “It’s a
“Lace has been a passion of mine ever since I       take in beachwear and swimwear lines, as            niche market because we work on the lingerie
was thirteen,” says Gilson. “I like its precious    well as boutiques in London’s Belgravia and         like haute couture,” she says. “There’s a lot of
side and the fact it’s made by hand.” A turning     Saint-Germain, Paris. Her garments are also         work that goes into it and each piece is unique,
point came soon after her graduation when           stocked in high-end multi-brand shops in            which is what makes it true Belgian luxury.”
she came across a small vintage lingerie man-       more than a dozen countries and regularly
ufacturer, Maille France, near Gare du Nord in      worn by celebrities including Nicole Kidman.        Starting in the early Renaissance, when Em-
Brussels. “At the atelier I had this real coup de                                                       peror Charles V decreed that lacemaking was
foudre for the artisanal nature of lace, this in-   Gilson has recently opened an office in the         compulsory for girls in convents and bégui-
credible savoir-faire,” she says. She bought the    Middle East, where she sometimes creates            nages, Belgium developed a thriving lace trade.
atelier and launched her own brand in 1990.         entire trousseaux for brides. “It’s a market I’ve   Even in the early 20th century the country had,
                                                    been familiar with for a decade and we have         by some estimates, 47,000 lacemakers but the
Gilson’s day- and nightwear draws on top-qual-      a very loyal customer base there,” she says.        craft has now dwindled despite the efforts of
ity Lyon silk and Caudry lace from the Calais       “They’re collectors, working women, above all       hobby clubs.
region. She’s particularly known for her pains-     people attracted to exclusive things.”
taking work with lace inlays, which run over                                                            “There aren’t many artisans working with lace
kimonos, lingerie, gowns, jackets and cam-          Last year saw the launch of an intimate, bou-       today,” says Gilson. “It’s this craftsmanship
isoles, combining with shimmering silks to          doir-style flagship on Boulevard de Waterloo        that I want to protect. Not by actually making
create an ethereal, decadently feminine mood.       in Brussels, masterminded by crafts-oriented        the lace, but by the way we work with it and
“My inspirations at the start were all the rit-     architectural duo David Raffoul and Nicolas         give it a contemporary signature. I’m proud to
uals of déshabillé: for me that was about silk      Moussallem. Meanwhile, until next April, the        say that, in Belgium today, I’m the guardian of
garments, and I’ve always loved the sensual         capital’s Fashion and Lace Museum is paying         the temple of this kind of savoir-faire.”
side of the 1930s and the 50s. I did a collec-      tribute to the designer and charting her label’s
tion about the early 20th-century couturier         evolution in its exhibition Beautiful Lace &        carinegilson.com

“
Lace has been a passion of mine
ever since I was 13
SUMMER 2019                                                                                                                                        27
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