"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA

Page created by Willie Palmer
 
CONTINUE READING
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
E51280
                                                                              1–2 / 2020

         COSMETICS | SPRAY TECHNOLOGY | MARKETING         WWW.COSSMA.COM

     Anna + Will Brigthman
     UpCircle Beauty

“WASTE FOR
                                                     GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
                                                     New approaches in
                                                     sun care preservation        p. 14

 BEAUTY”                      p. 56
                                                     SPOTLIGHT: SAMPLES
                                                     A spotlight on green
                                                     options for minis            p. 36

                                                         ANNA BALAGUER
                                                                 Provital
                                                           How to survive
                                                             competition
                                                                    p. 40
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
Advancing natural
formulations with
Amaze™ SP

Sustainable styling products that deliver outstanding hair
manageability, natural look and long-lasting styling retention are
within reach thanks to Nouryon’s Amaze™ SP 100% natural polymer.
Amaze™ SP can be formulated into a variety of hair styling products
ranging from spritzes to mousses and combing creams.

•   Improved sustainability and renewability versus synthetic polymers
•   Lightweight styling for invisible and nude looks
•   Provides thermal protection up to 230°C
•   Outstanding anti-frizz and volumizing performance
•   Compatible with commonly used styling ingredients

Learn more at nouryon.com/personalcare.
                                                                         00582_181019
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
EDITORIAL

SUNNY PROSPECTS?
If you compare global sales of sun care products in 2018 with those in 2013, the striking                      UPCYCLING
                                                                                                               Read on the trend
finding is that in most categories there has been double-digit growth. Since 2013, the                of turning food waste into
global sales of sun care products have increased by 16.2%, from 9.04 billion to 10.5 USD.             beauty products
                                                                                                      from page 42
After-sun and self-tanning products are with 656.5 million USD respectively 563.5 million
USD somewhat smaller. While after-sun products yielded a 17.9% growth and performed
similarly well, self-tanning products yielded a sales increase of 8.7%.
If you want to learn more about the challenges involved in formulating sun care products
as well as on the latest sun care trends and findings, the topic of nano and sustainable
options, industry experts from Merck, from Schülke & Mayr, BASF, consultants from
Skin Xpert and Sun Protection Fascilitator, provide fascinating insights.
Of course, this is not all. We have compiled an interesting range of articles representing
the industry’s latest developments.                                                                           SUN CARE
                                                                                                              Dr Christiane Hanay
We hope that you will find precisely the type of information you are looking for.                     from SkinXpert provides for-
                                                                                                      mulation insights
                                                                                                      from page 22

Sincerely yours,

Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA

                                                                                                      More information at
FOLLOW US ON:
                                                                                                      www.cossma.com

www.linkedin.com/company/cossma-digital/   www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine   www.youtube.de/cossmatv

                                                                                                            www.cossma.com     l3
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
Contents
COSSMA 1–2/2020

                         8    ARKETS &
                             M                                      14 Interview with Susanne
                                                                       Schmidt, Schülke & Mayr:
                             COMPANIES                                 New approaches in sun
                             08 News                                   care preservation

                                                                    17 Michelle Strutton, Mintel:
                         10 G
                             O FUTURE:                                International product
                            SUN CARE                                   launches

                             10 Interview with Alexander Kiel-      18 Interview with Stéphanie
                                bassa and Valérie Bicard-Ben-          Acker, BASF: Eco-conscious
                                hamou, Merck: The complexity           sun protection
                                of creating sun care products
                                                                    22 Interview with Dr Christiane
                                                                       Hanay, SkinXpert:

 56
 Coffee grounds
                                                                       Formulation know-how
                                                                       at its best

 for beauty?                                                        26 Interview with Uli Oster-
                                                                       walder, Consultant:
                                                                       Sun care update

                                                                 28 INGREDIENTS
                                                                    28 Prof Dr Dr Reinhard H.H.
                                                                       Neubert, Martin Luther
                                                                       University (MLU) Halle-Wit-
                                                                       tenberg: How to improve
                                                                       skin elasticity

4l   COSSMA 1–2 I 2020
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
10–27
                                                                                                                                          Latest insights into
                                                                                                                                          the world of sun care

                                                                                           40 MARKETING
                                                     48   The recycling challenge            40 Anna Balaguer, Provital:
                                                                                                 How to survive competition
                                                                                                                                   40    VIP of the month

                                                                                              42 Imogen Matthews, Consultant
                                                                                                 to In-Cosmetics:
                                                                                                 Turning food waste into
                                                                                                 beauty products
                                                                                              45 Christine Gallup, Genomatica:
                                                                                                 Increasing options for
                                                                                                 sustainable choices

                                                                                           48 PACKAGING
                                                                                              48 Interview with Linda Zhang,
                                                                                                 Henkel: The recycling challenge
                                                                                              51 Star of the Month: How to         Anna Balaguer, Provital,
                                                                                                 personalise products at home      explains how to survive in
                                                                                              54 A look at ADF and PCD             today’s fierce competition
                                                        32 Dr Andreas Reinhart, Reinhart
                                                                                                 highlights
                                                           Lawyers:
                                                                                                                                   59 SERVICES
Front cover picture: Veerle Evens, UpCircle Beauty

                                                           Glossary of common                 55 Packaging news
                                                           ingredient names                                                            03 Editorial
                                                        34 Formulations: Face & colour     56	PERSONALITIES &                         06 Download List
                                                        35 Ingredients news
                                                                                               PROFILES                                59 Events Diary
                                                                                              56 Interview with Anna and               62 Suppliers‘ Guide
                                                                                                 William Brightman,
                                                     36 SPOTLIGHT: SAMPLES                       UpCircle Beauty:                      65 Advertisers’ Index

                                                        36 A spotlight on green                  Coffee grounds for beauty?            66 Masthead Page
                                                           options for minis                  58 People                                66 Preview

                                                                                                                                                          www.cossma.com   l5
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
SERVICES

                  Free Downloads
                  More information for subscribers at www.cossma.com

    CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS:
            WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV
                                                     TIPS FOR MORE INFORMATION IN FEBRUARY
                                                     Embracing the natural tex-
                                                     ture of their hair is very
                                                     much en vogue with Afri-
                                                     can and black consumers
                                                     around the globe. What
                                                     tailored hair products suit
                                                     their texture preferences
                                                     and address their specific
                                                     hair issues and styling
                                                     choices?
 ROBIN BIELEFELD           CHRISTINE WILD
 Purchasing Manager,       Director International
 Börlind                   Sales, Boerlind
 about the company’s       about the company’s
 latest achievements in    latest achievements in
 sustainable packaging     sustainability             For more information,
                                                      search for these topics at
                                                                                     Tailored product solutions for texture prefer-
                                                      www.cossma.com
                                                                                     ences of African and black consumers

                                                     Top additional information in February
                                                           INGREDIENTS:	A glacier bacterium tackles the the ageing process of
 ERWIN SCHUSTER            STEFANO MEAZZA                                sleep-deprived skin, Mibelle
 Head of Market Seg-       CEO of the company
 ment New Markets          Cappardoni                      PACKAGING:	A broadening sustainable choice, Quadpack
 and APAC, Geka            about the complexity of
                                                           COMPANIES:	Asita Morgan, Head of Innovation Lab, Cosnova,
 about his company’s       recycling and the
 innovations in sustain-   company’s most                              ­considers diversity, performance and happiness
 able packaging            recent acquistions                          as the main trend drivers

                                                           FORMULATION:            Peach Peeling Bar, Zschimmer & Schwarz

                                                                LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE!
                                                                                                                                                       photo: Kiuikson, Shutterstock.com

 TIM EAVES                 JEAN-YVES BOURGEOIS       On the COSSMA website, we post lots of additional information related to the top-
 CEO, Quadpack             CEO, JYB Conseils         ics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
 provides background       about the major           to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients
 on their acquisition of   changes in the packag-    and finished products that we cover; market data and statistics; supplier listings;
 the German packaging      ing industry in the       literature references; scientific articles; product formulations and useful base for-
 company Louvrette         past 5 years              mulations. Search for the topics you are interested in at www.cossma.com

6 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020                                                                                                                 www.cossma.com
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
MARKETS & COMPANIES

 News                                                                                                                                                           New
                                                                                                                                                                 OF THE
                                                                                                                                                                Month
                                                                                                                                                                       s

  Brand acquisition                                                  Packaging                           THRIVING AGAIN: SKIN CARE
  PROCTER & GAMBLE | In order to comple-                             acquisition                         IKW | Pro-
  ment its female grooming portfolio, which                                                              jected annual
                                                                     HOFFMANN NEOPAC |
  includes the Venus, Braun and joy brands,                                                              sales 2019 of
                                                                     With the acquisition of
  Procter & Gamble plans to acquire Billie                                                               beauty care
                                                                     their metal packaging
  Inc., a subscription-based, direct-to-consumer                                                         products in
  body care brand with natural-focused razors                                                            Germany
  which are appealing to Millennial and Gen Z                                                            grew by 1.8%
  consumers.                                                                                             to 14 billion
  www.pg.com, https://mybillie.com
                                                                                                         Euros. As in
                                                                                                         the previous
                                                                                                         year, the two
                                                                                                         best-selling
                                                                                                         product            Known for ist botanical expertise
                                                                     Production site for
                                                                     internationalisation                categories showed the strongest growth. Consumers spent
                                                                                                         3.3 billion Euros for skin and face care products. This is a
                                                                     partner CM Packag-                  plus of 3.3% against 2018. Sales of hair care products rose
                                                                     ing, Hoffman Neopac                 by 3.5%to 3.2 billion Euros. Sales of oral and dental care
                                                                     now has a production                products went up by 1.6% to 1.6 billion Euros.
                                                                     site in the EU in the met-
                                                                                                         A slight increase was recorded in sales of decorative cos-
                                                                     al sector.
                                                                                                         metics (+0.3% to 1.8 bil­lion Euros).
                                                                     www.hoffmann-neopac.com
  Shaving products for Millennials                                   www.cmpackaging.nl                  Source: www.ikw.org, www.iriworldwide.com
ai157544944129_ad Mix kerascalp hydrafence 210 145 mm COSSMA enero 2020 copia.pdf 1 04/12/2019 9:50:42

  ADVERTISEMENT

                                                                                                                                                                                photos: xxxx XXXX xxxxx XXXXXX xxxxxxxx

  8l   COSSMA 1–2 I 2020                                                                                                                                       www.cossma.com
                                                                                                                                                     www.provitalgroup.com
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
RUBRIKTITEL

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      News
                                                                                                                                        New beauty giant
                                                                                                                                        NATURA | The new group’s brands now include Natura, The
                                                                                                                                        Body Shop, Aesop and Avon making it part of the world’s
                                                                                                                                        fourth-biggest pure-play beauty company, reaching more than
                                                                                                                                        200 million consumers worldwide through multiple channels. The
                                                                                                                                        group will have annual gross sales above US$10 billion, 6.3 mil-
                                                                                                                                        lion representatives and consultants, 3,200 stores and a presence
                                                                                                                                        in more than 100 countries.
                                                                                                                                        www.avonworldwide.com

                                                                                                                                                                       PARTNERSHIP
                                                                                                                                                                       SCHWAN COSMETICS | Schwan Cosmetics
                                                                                                                                                                       and Revieve have established a partnership
                                                                                                                                                                       to enable end consumers to digitally find the
                                                                                                                                                                       beauty products that are just right for their
                                                                                                                                                                       skin type with all its specificities.
                                                                                                                                                                       The technology’s real-time analysis of the
                                                                                                                                                                       shopper’s selfie includes skin radiance, eye
                                                                                                                                                                       colour and pigment variance. An algorithm
                                                                                                                                                                       then connects the individual skin profile with
                                                                                                                                                                       product recommendations to find best avail–
                                                                                                                                        Finding products
                                                                                                                                        simply digitally               able skin care and beauty products.
                                                                                                                                                                       www.schwancosmetics.com
photo: BVladimir Gjorgiev (shaving), CM Packaging (production site), Pauline Fabry, Revieve, Ipag Collection (face), Shutterstock.com

                                                                                                                                        10th anniversary
                                                                                                                                        BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG | This year
                                                                                                                                        from April 25–26, BEAUTY FORUM
                                                                                                                                        LEIPZIG will be celebrating its 10th anni-
                                                                                                                                        versary. The multi-faceted trade show for
                                                                                                                                        beauty professionals with its more than
                                                                                                                                        400 exhibitors and brands is an event
                                                                                                                                        to look forward to, especially as it offers a broad selection of
                                                                                                                                        extremely informative educational seminars. Another thing to look
                                                                                                                                        forward to are the championships.
                                                                                                                                        On the occasion of the show’s 10th anniversary, day tickets are available for only 10 Euros
                                                                                                                                        at the ticket presale which starts on January 28 at www.beauty-fairs.de/leipzig

                                                                                                                                        Fascinating exhibition with 400 exhibitors and brands

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       www.cossma.com   l9
"WASTE FOR BEAUTY" ANNA + WILL BRIGTHMAN UPCIRCLE BEAUTY - COSSMA
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

                                                                More interview
                                                                questions at
                                                                www.cossma.com
                                                                web code: 100349

                         Multifaceted
                         insights
                         Interview | Alexander Kielbassa and Dr Valérie
                         Bicard-Benhamou from Merck present the latest
                         findings in HEV, blue light and IR exposure, explain
                         how to overcome challenges involved in formu-
                         lating sun care products and point out the options
                         available for creating sustainable products.

                                                                                      Designua (skin), (Kraska (bottles), Magnetix (light spectrum), Maridav (lead photo), Shutterstock.com

10 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020                                               www.cossma.com
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

                            NN Interview with:                                                               What are the latest ingredient
                                 Alexander Kielbassa, Scientific Associate Director                          findings in this field?
                                 Dr Valérie Bicard-Benhamou, Scientific Associate
                                 Director, Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany                                    VB: We have investigated in two
                                 www.merckgroup.com                                                          ex-vivo models and at two differ-
                                                                                                             ent wavelength ranges (IR-A and
                                                                                                             HEV), different products from dif-
                                                                                                             ferent origins and light protection
COSSMA: What are the most im-           impact of visible (and de facto the                                  strategies: we tested ingredients
portant trends in the use of sun        HEV range) and IR may be strong.                                     which play a role in the first de-
filters?                                Another source of blue light is                                      fence line as they prevent radia-
                                        electronic devices: computers,                                       tion from entering the skin, for
Alexander Kielbassa (AK), Scientific    mobile phones, tablets.                                              example Eusolex T-AVO. In the sec-
Associate Director, Merck: In addi-                                                     RADIATION            ond defence line which causes a
tion to the trend of ever-increasing    How important is protection                     All solar radi-      responsive action in case some ra-
UV protection levels, pleasant and      from HEV, blue and IR light ac-                 ation leads to       diation should nonetheless enter
                                                                                       the formation of
fast application, attractive formu-     cording to you?                                                      the skin, we tested three ingredi-
                                                                                       radical oxygen
lation formats, and good skin                                                                                ents, two of them were antioxi-
                                                                                        species (ROS)
compatibility of the selected UV        VB: Appropriate and controlled                                       dants, the natural Emblica extract
filter combination all play an im-      doses of HEV and IR may be ben-                                      and the synthetic Rona­Care AP.
portant role.                           eficial for solving different skin                                   The third ingredient was the nat-
Mineral-based UV filters such as        issues, however a protection in the                                  ural cell protector Rona­Care Ec-
our company’s Eusolex T and UV-Ti-      HEV and IR ranges is definitely                                      toin. And finally, we also tested
tan products have a great advan-        needed.                                                              the selftanner Dihydroxyacetone.
tage here and are increasingly          Although the general public be-                                      The five ingredients tested all pro-
used. In addition, compatibility of     lieves that photoprotection is                     Even though       vided strong performance and
ingredients with environmental          mainly a matter of UV protection,             infrared (IR) radi-    protection of human skin explants
aspects is becoming more impor-         all solar radiations lead to the for-             ation has the      after IR-A/HEVL irradiation, thus
tant.                                   mation of radical oxygen species                lowest energy its    providing a broad protection band
                                        (ROS) and the excess of free radi-             contribution to the   in the solar spectrum. This protec-
What have been the latest find-         cals in skin contributes to prema-               solar spectrum      tion was shown on multi-bio-
                                                                                        reaching human
ings in High Energy Visible             ture skin ageing as well as wrin-                                    chemical parameter levels: in the
                                                                                         skin amounts to
light (HEV), blue light and In-         kling.                                                               case of the blue light ex vivo
                                                                                            about 45%
frared (IR) light exposure?             Visible light and especially high                                    study, MMP1, oxidised proteins,
                                        energy visible light trigger pro-in-                                 opsin-3 and 8-OHdG were posi-
Dr Valérie Bicard-Benhamou (VB),        flammatory cytokines, different                                      tively impacted after the applica-
Scientific Associate Director, Merck:   matrix metalloproteinases expres-                                    tion of our actives on the human
Protection of the skin against HEV      sion, or oxidation of proteins and                                   explants. In the case of the IR-A
light and IR light are other strongly   these markers all play a role in                                     study, tropoelastin and MMP-1
emerging trends for cutting-edge        accelerating skin ageing, as de-                                     were positively impacted by the
sun care products.                      noted by sagging skin, inflamma-              Excess of free         application of the different ingre-
Scientists showed how the skin          tion, wrinkles as well as skin tone           radicals in skin       dients on irradiated human ex-
encounters stress on a daily basis      issues due to hyperpigmentation                contributes to        plants.
when exposed to different wave-         effects.                                       premature skin        These findings show that the on-
length bands in the solar spectrum      IR radiation has the lowest energy               ageing and          set of ageing may be delayed and
                                                                                          wrinkling
including not only UV light but         but its contribution to the solar                                    photoageing damages may be
also visible light and especially       spectrum reaching human skin is                                      slowed down.
the HEV range, as well as the           about 45% and there may be an                                        As there is a broad choice of effi-
longer wavelengths in infrared;         impact on the integrity of the ex-                                   cient ingredients that can circum-
scientists have also made clear         tracellular matrix.                                                  vent harmful effects of HEV and
that dam-’age within the different
skin layers may also stem from
these stressors.
The main source of HEV and IR
light is natural sunlight itself; in-
                                                 “Current trends include protecting
deed, visible and infrared light
represent about 90% of the solar
                                                  the skin against HEV light and IR light”
spectrum. Therefore, the biological               Dr Valérie Bicard-Benhamou, Scientific Associate Director, Merck

                                                                                                                             www.cossma.com   l 11
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

“Properly using sun care is sustainable by                                                                 claiming SPF and UVA; e.g.
                                                                                                            eco-certified Eusolex T-S, Eusolex

 itself as it sustains human skin health”                                                                   T-AVO and Rona­Care Zinc Oxide.
                                                                                                            Apart from this, there is a wide
Alexander Kielbassa, Scientific Associate Director, Merck                                                   range of cosmetic ingredients and
                                                                                                            cosmetic actives which follows
                                                                                                            natural sourcing or is even organ-
                                                                                                            ically grown with clean and “soft”
IR-A light, consumer needs and               UV filter combinations available,                              manufacturing steps, without crit-
preferences can fully be taken into          so that some of the formulation                                ical impurities and which are bio-
consideration.                               challenges can be overcome. Pho-                               degradable or of mineral origin.
                                             tostabilisers, SPF boosters and
                                                                                       VISIBLE LIGHT
What are the challenges when                 skin-feel enhancers help to create                             Could you please provide us
                                                                                         and especially
formulating sun care products?               pleasant formulations. Very fa-                                with some examples?
                                                                                     high energy visible
                                             vourable are Titanium Dioxide UV
                                                                                      light trigger e.g.
AK: The first challenge is to find           filter grades of the Eusolex T and        pro-inflamma-        VB: The mineral-based UV filters
effective UV filter combinations             UV-Titan range. They are transpar-        tory cytokines,      we already mentioned. Sustaina-
for a well-balanced UVA and UVB              ent on the skin and are very strong        different matrix    bility is also an issue in the field of
protection, which act synergisti-            SPF and UVA boosters when com-             metalloprotein-     micro plastics, micro plastic beads
cally in order to keep formulation           bined with organic UV filters.            ases expression,     in particular. A sustainable alter-
costs low and to reach the in-               Thus, they keep the total UV filter       or oxidation of      native to plastic beads are the fully
tended SPF/UVA level.                        concentration on a low level. An-              proteins        inorganic RonaFlair functional fill-
Another challenge is to avoid the            other beneficial ingredient is the                             ers. Another option for formulating
infringement of innumerable                  antioxidant Oxynex ST Liquid for                               sustainable or clean beauty sun
third-party IP of UV filter and in-          sensitive active ingredients. It                               care is the bio-produced cell pro-
gredient combinations.                       acts as a photostabiliser for UV                               tection factor Rona­Care Ectoin with
And last but not least, achieving            filters and improves the long-term                             its eco-certification. It acts against
a stable and photostable formula-            UV protection level while acting                               UVA-triggered premature skin age-
tion, fully solubilised or dispersed         as a solvent for the UV filters. At                            ing. Other options include the
solid actives and UV filters. The            the same time, this multi-purpose                              skin-firming Rona­Care Poppy Seed
                                                                                      Photoprotection
formulator has to avoid incompat-            ingredient even works as an an-                                Extract, the natural-based Oxynex
                                                                                     is not only a matter
ibilities of ingredients and this for        ti-pollution active ingredient for                             and Emblica as antioxidants, the
                                                                                       of UV protection
the entire storage period. So, in-           cross-over sunscreens with skin                                algae extract Rona­Care RenouMer
deed, the number of challenges               care claims.                                                   for anti-ageing and moisturising
involved is high.                                                                                           properties, and finally the natural
                                             How do sun care and sustaina-                                  anti-inflammatory active Rona­Care
How can these challenges be                  bility go together?                                            Bisabolol nat.
overcome?                                                                                                   As sun care includes self-tanning,
                                             AK: Please allow me to start with,                             also our company’s Dihydroxyace-
AK: Formulating sun care products            sun care and properly using sun                                tone is COSMOS-registered and
is something for specialised com-            care is already sustainable – sus-                             NATRUE-compliant.
                                                                                        Much more
panies and of course for experi-             tainable, as it sustains human skin
                                                                                         research is
enced formulators. It definitely             health, if the skin is not exces-                              What biodegradable solutions
                                                                                     needed to substan-
does not fit the recent cosmetic             sively exposed to sun irradiation.       tiate a claim like
                                                                                                            are there for sun care?
trend of “Do it yourself cosmet-             With respect to the sustainability      “reef-friendly” for
ics”. Reports and blogs about “DIY           of ingredients: There are various        UV filters and sun    AK: Many ingredients typically
sunscreens” have been published              sun care products, brands and eco          care products       used for sun care are readily bio-
on the web, but this is not recom-           labels available in the field of nat-                          degradable. Alternatives include
mendable at all.                             ural sun care. As they systemati-                              emollients, emulsifiers, polymers,
At least in Europe there are                 cally exclude synthetic sub-                                   waxes, stabilisers and many cos-
enough permitted inorganic, or-              stances, only inorganic UV filters                             metic actives of natural origin. Of
ganic and encapsulated UV filters,           can be used for achieving and                                  course, there are substances and
                                                                                                            cosmetic ingredients which are
                                                                                                            “natural UV absorbers” and read-
                                                                                                            ily biodegradable but they have no
                                                                                                            approval to be used as UV filters
                                                                                                            in sun care formulas or to claim
     Visible and infrared radiations represent about 90% of the solar spectrum                              SPF or UVA levels. UV filters used

12 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

for human application for cosmetics                               YOUNGER SKIN                                      OLDER SKIN
in EU or OTC in the USA need to be
approved after extensive approval
processes and only a relatively man-
ageable number of ingredients has
this approval.
The list of permitted UV filters inclu-
des biodegradable or readily biode-
gradable substances such as Ethylhe-
xyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxy-
cinnamate or Benzophenone-3, but
these substances are controversially
discussed for other reasons. Biodeg-
radability does not apply to ingredi-
                                            Excess of free radicals in skin contributes to premature skin ageing and wrinkling
ents and UV filters of mineral origin.

What options are there for UV pro-          A recent publication on Octocrylene               shown effects. In a study by Mitchel-
tection in compliance with reef             by Pawlowski et al. discusses that,               more, concentrations of organic UV
safety?                                     due to the poor water solubility and              filters, hormones and surfactant deg-
                                            high surface adsorption properties of             radation products were analysed
AK: This is an important but very           some UV filters, concentrations                   around Hawaii, among others in
controversially discussed topic cur-        measured in the ocean or sea can be               coral tissue, but without linking this
rently, because there is no full and        severely flawed.                                  directly to toxic effects.
scientifically sound comparison be-         It will still take considerable time be-          In the field of inorganic UV filters, a
tween the different UV filters. So far,     fore validated methods are available              study of Corinaldesi and Italian uni-
there are no methods available to           for assessing complex ecosystems                  versities showed that Eusolex T-2000
specifically assess effects on coral        such as that of coral reefs. We face a            does not affect corals.
reefs. At this moment, the only pos-        lengthy period where comparing re-                In conclusion, although it would be
sible comparison is based on availa-        sults from various experiments leads              beneficial to develop reef-friendly UV
ble data such as aquatic toxicity and       to high speculation as to which UV                filters or sunscreen formulations, cur-
biodegradation. A real grading of UV        filters are least toxic to coral reefs.           rent knowledge is too limited for a
filters is nevertheless difficult as they   Last but not least, UV filter exposure            serious attempt to do so. Instead,
have a low aquatic toxicity but poor        might be only a minor aspect that                 claiming to be reef-friendly by avoid-
biodegradability or a good biodegra-        needs to be evaluated to understand               ing the use of the two UV filters
dability but higher aquatic toxicity.       coral bleaching, the results from pol-            banned in Hawaii, Benzophenone-3
None of the permitted UV filters has        yps expelling algae.                              and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
a truly positive profile for both           It is generally accepted that increased           and substituting them by other min-
aquatic toxicity and biodegradation.        sea-water temperature due to global               eral-based or organic UV filters not
Since good UV protection means pro-         warming is the main cause for this                touched by this ban, is unfortunately
tection against UVA and UVB light,          phenomenon as shown by Baird et al.               a current trend.
there is a need to rely on a complex        Moreover, apart from UV filters, sev-             Much more research is needed to
combination of UV filters. Limiting         eral other major factors might trigger            substantiate such a claim in the fu-
the number of permitted UV filters          coral bleaching: excessive UV radia-              ture or even to determine if any
further restricts manufacturers and         tion, ocean acidification, rising sea             newly developed UV filter substances
choices critically.                         level, physical destruction, mass tour-           are indeed more reef-friendly while
Much more future research is needed         ism in general, bacterial/viral patho-            at least equally safe for humans.
to specifically assess toxicity on coral    gens as well as environmental pollut-             With animal testing bans in place,
reefs. Numerous parameters need to          ants.                                             developing new UV filter substances
be considered in order to develop a         Based on in situ and laboratory ex-               and having these approved by au-
validated method and to be able to          periments, some researchers such as               thorities without conducting animal
understand if and how UV filters dif-       Danovaro postulated an effect of cer-             tests is nearly impossible.
fer in their effects. Amongst others,       tain UV filters as one of the reasons             Our company currently closely fol-
analytical measurements need to be          for disturbing the symbiosis of polyps            lows the developments in evaluating
carefully considered in order to be         and algae. The relevance of these ef-             products’ toxicity to coral reefs and
able to link effects observed in labo-      fects observed in the laboratory for              will keep the product portfolio as is
ratory test systems to concentration        the overall process of coral bleaching            until more robust scientific data be-
measurements in the ocean and inves-        is not known. Moreover, only a few                comes available, justifying another
tigations of coral reefs as ecosystems.     UV filters e.g. Benzophenone-3 have               decision.                           Q

                                                                                                                                 www.cossma.com   l 13
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

             New approaches in
             sun care preservation
             Interview | Preserving sunscreens can be complex and challenging. Susanne
             Schmidt from Schülke & Mayr explains how to master these challenges and
             provides insights into traditional and alternative preservative systems.

14 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

                                                                                       NN Interview with:                                                                       cacy. Here we focussed on the ra-
                                                                                           Susanne Schmidt, Product Development                                                 tio of oil to water phase as a func-
                                                                                           Manager, Business Line Personal Care                                                 tion of the SPF value and its
                                                                                           Schülke & Mayr, Norderstedt, Germany                                                 influence on the concentration of
                                                                                           www.schuelke.com                                                                     the preservation system in the
                                                                                                                                                                                same formulation matrix.
                                                                                                                                                                                We expected that formulations
                                                                                                                                                                                with higher SPF would need
                                                                          COSSMA: What has to be taken            also have a strong impact on prod-                            higher amounts of preservative,
                                                                          into account in order to pre-           uct development. They lead to a                               and this was not always the case.
                                                                          serve sunscreens adequately?            restricted use of controversial in-                           When there is less water in formu-
                                                                                                                  gredients and make formulators                                lations with a high oil content,
                                                                                                                                                         LIMITED CHOICE
                                                                          Susanne Schmidt, Product Develop-       shift towards the use of softer                               this can also lead to a reduced
                                                                                                                                                           The pH value of a
                                                                          ment Manager, Schülke & Mayr: De-       preservation or other non-tradi-                              microbiological susceptibility.
                                                                                                                                                           formulation may
                                                                          veloping sunscreens is often more       tional solutions.                       limit the choice of
                                                                                                                                                                                This means that from a certain
                                                                          challenging than other skin care                                                usable preserva-      ratio of oil to water phase, the use
                                                                          products as it requires an experi-      Why is it more difficult to pre-           tive actives       of preservatives decreases again.
                                                                          enced formulator with detailed          serve formulations with higher
                                                                          market knowledge. Various re-           SPF levels?                                                   What options are there for pre-
                                                                          quirements must be taken into                                                                         serving sunscreen products?
                                                                          consideration and a comprehen-          The proportion of the oil phase in
                                                                          sive knowledge in the fields of         an emulsion increases with higher                             As mentioned before, market de-
                                                                          chemistry, galenics, methodology,       sun protection factors. Most mod-                             mands and formulation require-
                                                                          measurements, regulations and           ern, non-traditional preservatives                            ments on preservation restrict the
                                                                          patents is essential. Choosing a        such as aromatic alcohols are less                            choice of preservative actives
                                                                          specific preservation method has        soluble in water, where the micro-                            listed in Annex V of Regulation
                                                                                                                                                           Many organic
                                                                          only played a minor role in the         bial activity happens, and tend to                            (EC) No. 1223/2009 on Cosmetic
                                                                                                                                                           acids such as
                                                                          past. Due to public controversies,      migrate to the oil phase. As such,      benzoic acid and
                                                                                                                                                                                Products. Frequently used pre-
                                                                          regulatory changes and a trend          an emulsion with a higher ratio of      sorbic acid need      servative actives are aromatic al-
                                                                          towards using modern, non-tradi-        oil to water phase may require a         a lower pH in        cohols, short-chain parabens and
                                                                          tional preservative systems, pres-      higher concentration of preserva-       order to work as      organic acids insofar as they are
                                                                          ervation must be considered at the      tives. Furthermore, it is common         preservatives        compatible with the formulation.
                                                                          very beginning of the develop-          to use high amounts of polar oils                             Today, more and more multifunc-
                                                                          ment of any product. This holds         in sunscreen formulations to sol-                             tional ingredients are being used
                                                                          particularly true for sunscreens.       ubilise crystalline UV filters e.g.                           for product protection, which,
                                                                                                                  avobenzone or benzophenone-3                                  among other functions, may also
                                                                          For what reason is the choice of        or disperse the mineral UV filter                             have antimicrobial support or en-
                                                                          suitable preservative systems in        zinc oxide and/or titanium diox-                              hancing effects on traditional pre-
                                                                          sunscreen formulas limited?             ide. A higher polarity of the oil                             servatives.
                                                                                                                  phase may increase the migration
                                                                          The pH value of a formulation           of actives into the oil phase.             UV FILTERS         Are there any traditional pre-
                                                                          may limit the choice of preserva-                                                Some organic         servative actives for sunscreen
                                                                          tive actives that can be used. Sun-     Do formulations with higher            UV filters, such as    products that are not controver-
                                                                          screen formulas such as emul-           SPF require higher amounts of           avobenzone, are       sial?
photos: Maxx-Studio (products), Stockyimages (lead photo), Shutterstock

                                                                          sions often require a neutral pH,       preservatives?                          not compatible
                                                                          due to UV filters such as zinc ox-                                             with formaldehyde      Yes and no. There is a wide range
                                                                          ide, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic       Our company has challenge-tested            releasers         of actives available from Annex V.
                                                                          acid and/or thickener systems           several sunscreen formulations                                More than half of the listed sixty
                                                                          used for stabilisation. For this rea-   based on organic and/or inorganic                             substances and their families are
                                                                          son, organic acids such as benzoic      UV filters for antimicrobial effi-                            rarely used due to technical is-
                                                                          acid, sorbic acid etc., which need
                                                                          a lower pH in order to work as
                                                                          preservatives often cannot be
                                                                          used. Furthermore, some organic
                                                                          UV filters, such as avobenzone,
                                                                                                                   “When developing sun care products, the appropriate
                                                                          are not compatible with formalde-
                                                                          hyde releasers. On the other hand,
                                                                                                                    preservation must be considered right from the start”
                                                                          market trends and social media            Susanne Schmidt, Product Development Manager, Business Line Personal Care, Schülke & Mayr

                                                                                                                                                                                                www.cossma.com   l 15
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

“It is more challenging to develop sunscreens
 than other skin care products”
Susanne Schmidt, Product Development Manager, Schülke & Mayr

sues. Actives which are especially           hibit a certain antimicrobial effect                          One very good option is using
widely used come under review                but provide a different primary                               chelating agents. They enhance
for various reasons.                         function.                                                     the antimicrobial effect by weak­
On the one hand, we face public              Due to their antimicrobial efficacy                           ening the cell membrane of some
controversy based on safety con­             which tends to be rather limited,       PRESEVATIVES          microorganisms. Chelating agents
cerns accompanied by emotions                higher levels of use-concentration       Most modern,         are typically used in sunscreen
and on the other hand, it is also a          are needed.                              non-traditional      formulation to avoid discoloration
common process of the EU Com­                However, combining antimicro­           preservatives are     by UV filters. As expected, our
mission to reassess cosmetic in­             bial stabilisers in an intelligent      less soluble in       tests on sunscreens have shown
gredients from a toxicological and           way with other factors reducing        water, where the       that tetrasodium EDTA provides a
                                                                                    microbial activity
legal point of view on a regular             the contamination risk such as                                preservative-boosting effect when
                                                                                         happens
basis. For this reason, we cannot            GMP production can achieve a                                  used in higher levels (0.2% active
exclude any discussion per se.               sufficient protection against mi­                             matter). Furthermore, tetrasodium
These days the most important                croorganisms.                                                 glutamate diacetate led to compa­
traditional preservative active for          In addition, multifunctional addi­                            rable results in our tests.
sunscreen products is phenoxy­               tives are used as boosters for pre­
ethanol, which has been reas­                servatives to allow lower concen­                             Which combinations of preserv-
sessed by the EU Commission to               trations or to ensure a sufficient                            atives or multifunctional addi-
be safe at max. 1% for all cosmetic          efficacy within the maximum dos­                              tives with antimicrobial effect
applications and all age groups.             age permitted.                                                are suitable to achieve a
                                             Of course, it is always important                             well-protected sunscreen prod-
Are antimicrobial stabilisation              to prove the effectiveness of the                             uct?
blends less effective than tradi-            protection system with the help of      The proportion
tional preservation systems?                 a microbiological challenge test.       of the oil phase      Our company tested different sun­
                                                                                     in an emulsion        screen formulations with various
                                                                                      increases with
Antimicrobial stabilisers, fre­              How can the antimicrobial ef-                                 organic and/or inorganic UV filter
                                                                                    higher sun protec-
quently called multifunctional ad­           fect of preservative systems or                               systems. We offer various blends
                                                                                        tion factors
ditives, are substances which ex­            alternative blends be enhanced?                               based on preservative actives as
                                                                                                           well as multifunctional additives
                                                                                                           to protect sunscreens. Challenge
                                                                                                           tests have proven combinations of
                                                                                                           aromatic alcohols with glycols or
                                                                                                           boosters to be effective. These ac­
                                                                                                           tives have been chosen to meet
                                                                                                           the market and formulation re­
                                                                                                           quirements and are widely ac­
                                                                                                           cepted.
                                                                                                           The soft preservative blend Euxyl
                                                                                      Multifunctional      PE 9010 based on phenoxyethanol
                                                                                     ingredients may       boosted by ethylhexylglycerin has
                                                                                     also have antimi-     shown a good activity in sun­
                                                                                     crobial support
                                                                                                           screen products. Multifunctional
                                                                                        or enhancing
                                                                                                           additive blends such as Sensiva PA
                                                                                       effects on tradi-
                                                                                    tional preservatives
                                                                                                           40* and Sensiva SC 10** are also
                                                                                                           suitable combination partners for
                                                                                                           product protection.             Q

In the past, the choice of a preservation method                                                           * phenylpropanol, propanediol and caprylyl glycol
for sun care products played only a minor role                                                             **caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin

16 l   COSSMA 1–2 I 2020                                                                                                                    www.cossma.com
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

                 Product development | Michelle Strutton presents a selection of                                          More product information at
                                                                                                                          www.cossma.com
                 sun care products recently featured on the company’s GNPD*.                                              web code 100350

                                  A
                                           s the global clean beauty         with a tab claimed to provide an easy
                                           movement continues to grow        application and to block 97% UVA
                                           and evolve, natural storylines    and UVB rays.                              FILMOR
                                  are a firm favourite. Sun care is a part   It is said to provide stable sun protec-   In contrast to sunscreens, the film is
                                                                                                                        claimed to offer stable protection
                                  of the larger narrative, and brands        tion while protecting sensitive skin
                                  need to respond and emphasise their        against external stress.
                                  natural, clean and aquatic-safe cre-       The soft, non-shiny and waterproof
                                  dentials.                                  film is suitable for any skin tone,
                                  Going forward, those brands likely to      keeps skin smooth by evaporating
                                  succeed are those which choose to          sweat and provides long-lasting ad-
                                  leverage growing eco-demands, ad-          hesion.
                                  dress inclusivity to attract younger       It can be used with foundation and
                                  consumers, appeal to consumers’            retails in a pack which ccontains a
                                  wellbeing needs and take account of        total of 24 units.
                                  the popularity of evolving product
                                  and claim opportunities for skin mi-       Hydrating de-tanning gel
                                  crobiome health.                           Lass Naturals After Sun De-Tan Gel is
                                  Poor usage and consumer confusion          designed to hydrate and de-tan skin,
                                  continue to plague the sector, brands      helping it retain moisture, and pro-
                                  can help educate by creating an im-        mote healing, while lightening blem-
                                  mersive hands-on experience for sun        ishes, and leaving skin clear and ra-      Kids sun spray with
                                  care that is educational, fun and Ins-     diant.                                     natural filters
                                  tagrammable.                               The non-greasy gel for all skin types      In the UK, the Acorelle Nature Sun
                                                                             and the entire body is for fast and        range is formulated with cold-pressed
                                  Ultra-thin film blocks                     effective relief from UVA and UVB          karanja oil from the pongolote tree,
                                  UVA and UVB rays                           damage such as hyper-pigmentation          offering a natural UV filter that is in-
                                  In Japan, Filmor UV Block Film M Size      and sun burn.                              visible on the skin and free from pho-
                                  is a transparent seven-micron film                                                    to-sensitisers. Kids Sun Spray SPF 50
                                                                             Translucent mineral powder                 is formulated with pure mineral fil-
                                                                             for a sun-burn free scalp                  ters for protection against UVA and
                                                                             In the UK, Supergoop! Poof 100%            UVB rays in a natural way. It con-
                                                                             Mineral Part Powder SPF 45 is a non-       tains antioxidant-rich organic karanja
                                                                             greasy, translucent, virtually unde-       oil to strengthens the skin’s protec-
                 LASS NATURALS                   SUPERGOOP!
                 Non-greasy gel for              Virtually undetectable      tectable powder with 100% mineral          tive barrier, as well as Api Oleo Aktiv,
                 fast and effective relief       powder for scalp and hair   actives, which fight UV rays without       composed of pollen, propolis, cur-
                 from sun damage                                             irritating sensitive skin or messing       cuma extract and raspberry seed oil,
                                                                             up the hair to keep the scalp sun-         to nourish the skin.                 Q
                                                                             burn-free.                                 * Global new products database

                                                                             The weightless, powdery formula is
                                                                             packed with vitamin C to provide
                                                                             antioxidant protection and with sil-
                                                                             ica, which gently absorbs excess oils.
                                                                             The product is said to be non-come-                         AUTHOR:
                                                                                                                                         Michelle Strutton
                                                                             dogenic, non-irritating and aller-
                                                                                                                                         Global Research Manager
photos: Mintel

                                                                             gy-tested.                                                  Beauty & Personal Care
                                                                             It is free from parabens, synthetic fra-                    Mintel, London, UK
                                                                                                                                         www.mintel.com
                                                                             grance, or oxybenzone.

                                                                                                                                                   www.cossma.com   l 17
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

Eco-conscious sun protection
Interview | Stéphanie Acker from BASF talks about consumer trends in sun care,
BASF’s new EcoSun Pass methodology and the benefits of nano UV filters.

             NN Interview with:                       COSSMA: What are the most im-            trends include for example improved
                  Stéphanie Acker, Senior Technical   portant product trends in sun care       protection across the entire UVA and
                  Manager Sun Care, BASF              at present?                              UVB spectrum, additional protection
                  Grenzach, Germany                                                            against visible blue light as well as
                  www.carecreations.basf.com          Stéphanie Acker, Senior Technical Man-   and lighter, more pleasant formula-
                                                      ager Sun Care, BASF: Major market        tions.

18 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

We are increasingly seeing and ad-     Absolutely – it’s all a matter of using   market. It is based on the latest sci-
dressing another trend: consumer de-   and balancing the right ingredients.      entific findings, which improves reg-
mand for products with improved        To assess the environmental impact        ulatory acceptance.
environmental compatibility and,       of the UV filters used in sunscreen
more generally, for more sustainable   formulations, our company has de-         Which criteria are covered by your
products is on the rise.               veloped the EcoSun Pass. This meth-       assessment tool?
We expect this trend to continue or    odology was created to provide a tool
even accelerate since public discus-   for assessing UV filters more holisti-    The eight criteria covered by our
sion is focused on environmental is-   cally. It is based on internationally     evaluation method include bioaccu-
sues. These include as adverse ef-     recognised criteria and takes into ac-    mulation, biodegradation and Log
fects on corals and marine life,       count eight different parameters.         Pow, endocrine suspicion, toxicity to
endocrine disruption, and bioaccu-     From what we know, it is the first        terrestrial organisms, toxicity to sed-
mulation.                              scientifically sound and transparent      iment-dwelling organisms, and acute
                                       system to rank and thus potentially       and chronic aquatic toxicity, i.e. the
Do sun care and sustainability go      improve the environmental impact of       intrinsic capability of a substance to
together?                              a given formulation available on the      cause damage to aquatic organisms

                                                                                                                  www.cossma.com   l 19
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

                                                                                                               transparently, regardless of the
                                                                                                               supplier. This means that poten-
                                                                                                               tial improvements to the UV filter
                                                                                                               mixture may or may not involve
                                                                                                               our ingredients.
                                                                                                               One approach to formulating sun-
                                                                                                               screens with improved environ-
                                                                                                               mental compatibility is to select
                                                                                                               the most efficient UV filters with
                                                                                                               better environmental profiles and
                                                                                                               use the lowest possible concentra-
                                                                                                               tions. This also makes formula-
                                                                                                               tions as light as possible without
                                                                                                               compromising performance.

                                                                                                               What potential do you see for
                                                                                                               natural sun care products?

                                                                                                               For all UV filters – whether they
                                                                                                               are considered natural or not –
What are the effects of sunscreens on corals, marine life, endocrine disruption and bioaccumulation?           regulatory hurdles have become
                                                                                                               extremely high to the point that it
                                                                                                               is almost impossible to get regula-
                                                                                                               tory approval for new ingredients.
after short-term or long-term ex-                                       that meet the demands of               Since sunscreens claim to have a
posure. Each substance is as-                                           eco-conscious consumers?               health-related benefit, they are all
signed a specific environmental                 CONSUMERS                                                      assessed by the same standardised
ranking.                                       require products         It enables us to advise formulators    ISO in-vivo and in-vitro methods.
All eco-ranked substances in a                  with improved           as early as possible in the devel-     Of course, this also applies to nat-
given formulation are then rated               environmental            opment stage on which UV filter        ural filters, since how natural a
on an open-ended scale, starting                compatibility           combinations are best suited for       filter is says nothing about its ef-
at zero for ingredients with the                                        their application – in the interests   ficacy or safety. Besides, natural-
worst possible performance.                                             of both the consumer and the en-       ness can be defined differently.
We created an algorithm to calcu-                                       vironment. As well as considering      The EU positive list contains no
late the effect of a sunscreen for-             The evaluation          environmental factors for individ-     UV filters which are natural by our
mulation on the environment that              tool assesses wide-       ual UV filters, it provides a com-     understanding of the term, mean-
takes the eight parameters into ac-            ly-used UV filters,      prehensive environmental evalu-        ing there is currently no natural
count for each UV filter. The Eco-              regardless of the       ation for the entire filter system     sunscreen on the market that pro-
Sun Pass value for any given for-                   supplier            within a sunscreen product. This       vides significant protection.

                                                                                                                                                      photos: Denis Belitsky (lead photo), Irina Markova (sea), Tio2_Kateryna (nano), Shutterstock.com
mulation is normalised for its sun                                      enables our customers to evaluate
protection factor to prevent sun-                                       their sunscreens based on all the      What are the latest findings on
screens being rated as poor be-                                         relevant environmental aspects         the impact of sunscreens on
cause of their high efficacy and               The EcoSun Pass          and allows for the eco-friendliest     coral reefs?
filter concentration. The higher              provides a compre-        consumer product to be brought
the EcoSun Pass value for a for-               hensive environ-         onto the market.                       This issue has been discussed
                                              mental evaluation
mulation, the more environmen-                                          The methodology does not apply         widely in the media. However,
                                              of the entire filter
tally friendly it is.                                                   only to our company’s products; it     there is only very limited data
                                                system within a
                                              sunscreen product
                                                                        works entirely independently of        available on the potential effects
How does this tool help manu-                                           our product portfolio. All wide-       of sunscreens on coral reefs. More
facturers formulate sunscreens                                          ly-used UV filters are assessed        research needs to be done to de-
                                                                                                               velop a meaningful test setup to
                                                                                                               investigate corals. Corals react
                                                                                                               very sensitively to a variety of en-
“Our EcoSun Pass helps assess widely-used                                                                      vironmental parameters such as
                                                                                                               increased water temperatures and
 UV filters, regardless of the supplier”                                                                       pollution, as well as physical
                                                                                                               stress. More research is required
Stéphanie Acker, Senior Technical Manager Sun Care, BASF                                                       to understand if and to what ex-

20 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

“Due to regulatory hurdles it has become almost impossible
 to get regulatory approval for new ingredients”
Stéphanie Acker, Senior Technical Manager Sun Care, BASF

tent UV filters cause damage to              ties, including chemical structure,                           increasingly wary of all nano par-
coral reefs, to draw the right con-          molecular weight, solubility and                              ticles – a trend driven by the ten-
clusions and ultimately protect              polarity, as well as melting point.                           dency of consumer organisations
the entire reef community better.            Both the organic and inorganic                                and journalists to denigrate prod-
                                             nano filters in our portfolio are         More research       ucts containing nano particles.
Another issue debated in public              very unlikely to penetrate the skin.     needs to be done     When consumers spot the manda-
is the topic of nanoparticles.               With particle sizes starting be-       to develop a mean-     tory (nano) indication in the in-
What’s the actual problem here?              tween 20 and 500 nanometers,            ingful test set-up    gredients list of any particular
                                             they are vastly bigger than other          to investigate     product, they are more likely to
According to a definition used by            common UV filters which are not                corals         leave it on the shelf and buy an-
the European Union, nanomate-                classified as nano because they are                           other product instead.
rial means materials with 50 per-            soluble in oil or water. In compar-
cent of insoluble particles in the           ison to other cosmetic ingredients,                           What are the advantages of
range between 1 and 100 nanom-               nano particles are quite large.                               nano-sized UV filters?
eters. That means filters are clas-          Another fear centres on the acute
sified as ‘nano’ exclusively due to          and chronic inhalation toxicity of                            For particulate UV filters such as
particle size. There are several             spray applications. Both acute and                            MBBT, TBPT, ZnO and TiO2, we
nano filters on the market – inor-           chronic inhalation toxicity tests      HOW NATURAL            can prove that efficacy increases
ganic ones such as zinc oxide                are required by the EU Scientific      a UV filter is, says   with decreasing particle size – and
(ZnO) and titanium dioxide                   Committee on Consumer Safety            nothing about its     at the same time, smaller particles
(TiO2), and organic ones such as             (SCCS) to confirm safety in spray      efficacy or safety     have a reduced white-painting ef-
methylene bis-benzotriazolyl te-             applications. With a ban on ani-                              fect. This means that nanoparti-
tramethylbutylphenol (MBBT)                  mal tests in place, it is virtually                           cles allow us to formulate more
and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT).           impossible to prove products are                              effective, lighter, and more trans-
                                             harmless regardless of filter size.                           parent sunscreens.
One widespread fear is that na-              For some widely-used UV filters,                              Moreover, nanoparticles have a
no particles easily penetrate the            whether nano or not, only acute                               very beneficial triple effect: they
skin and cause undesirable ef-               inhalation tests are available. Get-                          reflect and scatter light due to
fects.                                       ting approval for spray applica-         The data avail-      their particulate nature. The struc-
                                             tions would be impossible today.       able on the poten-     ture of organic particles allows for
                                                                                       tial effects of
However, percutaneous absorp-                Despite their vastly different prop-                          the highest absorption which
                                                                                     sunscreens on
tion depends on several proper-              erties, consumers are becoming                                makes them more efficient than
                                                                                     coral reefs are
                                                                                        very limited
                                                                                                           inorganic particles.

                                                                                                           What would forgoing nanopar-
                                                                                                           ticles mean for sunscreen man-
                                                                                                           ufacturers?

                                                                                                           Nano-sized filters are highly effi-
                                                                                                           cient and do not need to be dis-
                                                                                                           solved in water or oil. Replacing
                                                                                                           them with oil-soluble filters would
                                                                                      The EU posi-         require more emollients, making
                                                                                      tive list does       formulations heavier and oilier.
                                                                                     not contain any       It would also become more diffi-
                                                                                    natural UV filter      cult to formulate highly effective
                                                                                                           formulations generally, and for-
                                                                                                           mulations would be harder to sta-
Nanoparticles help to formulate more effective,                                                            bilise.
lighter, and more transparent sunscreens                                                                                                     Q

                                                                                                                           www.cossma.com   l 21
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE
                                                                    More information at
                                                                    www.cossma.com
                                                                    web code: 100351

Formulation know-how
at its best
Interview | Formulating sun care products is a complex matter.
Dr Christiane Hanay discusses the trends and challenges in sun
filter usage as well as free from products, clean beauty sun care
and natural and reef-safe solutions.

22 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

                                                                                                  NN Interview with:            We cannot really talk about short-         plained to sunscreen manufacturers
                                                                                                       Dr Christiane Hanay      term trends in this context due to the     and distributors as well as consumers.
                                                                                                       Managing Director        time-consuming approval process of
                                                                                                       SkinXpert, Erlinsbach    UV filters. When formulating a new         What challenges are involved
                                                                                                       Switzerland              sunscreen product, it is very impor-       when formulating sun care prod-
                                                                                                       www.skin-xpertch.ch      tant to know about the underlying          ucts?
                                                                                                                                photochemistry, the scientific litera-
                                                                                                                                ture and potential side reactions in       There are a number of challenges.
                                                                                                                                order to avoid undesired side effects      First of all, marketing requires an in-
                                                                                                                                such as phototoxic and photoallergic       creasing number of claims on a sun-
                                                                                                                                reactions which may be caused by           screen product.
                                                                                     COSSMA: What are the latest scien-         combining new raw materials which          Then, more and more substances re-
                                                                                     tific findings in sun care?                do not belong in a sun care product.       quired for the development of a sun
                                                                                                                                If we talk about preferences in the        care product are discredited. As con-
                                                                                     Dr Christiane Hanay, Managing Direc-       selection of UV filters, customers of-     sumers become more highly sensi-
                                                                                     tor, SkinXpert: The core message still     ten ask for octocrylene and ethylhexyl     tised and insecure, they prefer to see
                                                                                     is that the protection of the skin         methoxycinnamate (­EHMC)-­free for-        an increasing number of substances
                                                                                     against UVB and UVA II and I radia-        mulations. Additionally, especially in     excluded from their sun care product.
                                                                                     tion is the major intended use for sun     the DACH-region there is a strong re-      Last but not least, the regulatory re-
                                                                                     care because the overwhelming ma-          quest to avoid potential endocrine         quirements for a sunscreen product
                                                                                     jority of melanoma skin cancers are        disruptors (ED) such as benzophe-          and approval status of UV filters vary
                                                                                     attributed to UV damage.                   none-3 (oxybenzone), 4-MBC, ho-            from region to region
                                                                                     Additionally, a multitude of interest-     mosalate, ­EHMC (octinoxate), benz-        All this makes the galenic systems
                                                                                     ing studies during the past few years      ophenone-4/5.                              more complex, more fragile during
                                                                                     have shown that a high amount of           If we cannot use octocrylene any           their product life cycle and an impor-
                                                                                     free radicals are produced in the vis-     more, we will lose the most impor-         tant endpoint, such as water resist-
                                                                                     ible light region as additional source     tant triplet quencher for the photo        ance, are even more difficult to
                                                                                     of oxidative stress and photoageing.       stabilisation of the UVA filter Butyl      achieve.
                                                                                     About 50% of the total skin oxidative      Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM,             On the other hand, if the formulation
                                                                                     burden is generated by visible light.      avobenzone). Of course, we could           is not stable or has unpleasant sen-
                                                                                     In 2019, claims for sun care products      stabilise BMBM with the help of            sory or inferior protection properties,
                                                                                     continued to diversify and now also        BEMT or alternatively, replace BMBM        the consumer will not buy it a second
                                                                                     include protection against radicals        with DHHB. These new approaches            time.
                                                                                     and full light technology.                 lead to new UV filter platforms in
                                                                                     Due to the specific sunscreen bans of      formulations and other issues such         What sun care ingredients are cur-
                                                                                     oxybenzone and octinoxate in Palau         as the cost of the finished product.       rently controversial and why?
                                                                                     and Hawaii, uncertainty about the en-      Together with the high testing costs
                                                                                     vironmental impact of sun care prod-       required in the development of a new       The UV-Filters benzophenone-3 (oxy­
                                                                                     ucts is rising and the “reef-safe” claim   sun care product, this is in drastic       benzone), 4-MBC, homosalate,
                                                                                     has become popular in many regions.        contrast to the extremely low sales        EHMC (octinoxate), benzophe-
                                                                                     An important new step to monitor           prices in the market, especially in        none-4/5 are in the list of potential
photos: Supinskaya Glashchenko (sun hat), TierneyMJ (lead photo), Shutterstock.com

                                                                                     the behaviour of sunscreens on the         Germany. It is important to realise        endocrine disrupters (ED). The col-
                                                                                     human body in vivo is the possibility      that it is challenging and needs a         lections of data for the SCCS are par-
                                                                                     of visualising the sun protection film     high development experience to             tially completed. It will be very inter-
                                                                                     on the skin by UV photography.             manage the contradictory require-          esting to see what evidence further
                                                                                     Finally, in 2019 we saw very impor-        ments. This simple example shows           studies will find.
                                                                                     tant and ground-breaking progress          that conscious decisions are required      Titanium Dioxide is proposed as
                                                                                     concerning SPF measurement test            in a situation in which compromises        CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic or re-
                                                                                     methods, primarily the Hybrid Dif-         must be made. This must be ex-             protoxic) Cat. 2 classification under
                                                                                     fuse Reflectance Spectroscopy
                                                                                     (HDRS). This is a true milestone in
                                                                                     the direction of non-invasive in vitro/
                                                                                     in vivo SPF testing with validated re-
                                                                                     sults. Preparations are under way to
                                                                                     turn it into an ISO standard.
                                                                                                                                       “The claim ‘free from preservatives’
                                                                                     What are the most important
                                                                                                                                        should not be used any more”
                                                                                     trends in the use of sun filters?                  Dr Christiane Hanay, Managing Director, SkinXpert

                                                                                                                                                                                                             www.cossma.com   l 23
GO FUTURE: SUN CARE

CLP (classification, labelling and                                    lecular size of soluble UV filters,     Many systems used for the purpose
packaging). The risk is associated                                    “nano” is big for sunscreens.           of microbiological stabilisation are
with inhalation of the respirable                                     However, for consumers the dec-         naturally surface active, they can
part of TiO2 particles.                                               laration “nano” tends to mean           disrupt and destabilise the colloi-
It is proven that no other route of                                   hazardous and risk-filled. The UV       dal liquid-crystalline gel network.
exposure causes carcinogenicity                   ABOUT 50%           filters with “nano” declaration do      For example, glyceryl caprylate
hazard for that raw material                     of the total skin    not penetrate into the skin and are     also acts at the oil/water interface.
                                                 oxidative burden
(RAC – Risk Assessment Commit-                                        not bioavailable.                       Levulinic acid salt requires a pH of
                                                  is generated by
tee).                                                                 The MBBT dispersion (Tinosorb M,        less than 5.5 and is therefore not
                                                    visible light
Therefore, this classification is an                                  Parsol Max) contains decyl glyco-       suitable for sunscreen formula-
issue under CLP and not for cos-                                      side which promotes a shift of the      tions in which PBSA is to be used.
metics in its application in sun-                                     hydrophilic/lipophilic balance of       It is important to take all this into
screens, except for sun sprays.                                       the formulation. MBBT must also         consideration before product de-
                                                                      be declared as nano and can cause       velopment, otherwise the entire
What problems have to be con-                                         a whitening of the formulation at       system might have to be rede-
sidered when choosing the ap-                                         higher concentration levels.            signed later.
propriate UV filters?                                                 TBPT-dispersion (Tinosorb A2B)
                                                   Stabilising or     contains decyl glycoside and must       What do you think of free-from
Choosing a UV filter platform                   replacing BMBM        be declared as nano.                    claims in sun care products?
                                                will increase costs
which largely avoids potential                                        Polysilicone-15 is not silicone-free.
critical issues is probably the big-                                  Only a few UV filters remain with-      In the high and very high SPF/
gest challenge.                                                       out critical issues, such as Ethyl-     UVA-PF segment, fulfilling all re-
UV filters without any concerns                                       hexyl Salicylate (EHS), Ethylhexyl      quirements becomes more diffi-
are virtually non-existent. Oc-                                       Triazone (EHT), Diethylhexyl But-       cult. This also includes the free-
tocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexyl                                     amido Triazone (DBT), BEMT (Ti-         from claims, which are restricted
methoxycinnatate are all in the                                       nosorb S), Diethylamino Hydrox-         and part of the technical document
preliminary ED list.                                                  ybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate                 on cosmetic claims.
                                                    Fulfilling all
The water-soluble UVB-filter Phe-                                     (DHHB). However, the symmetri-          Customers request free-from
                                                  requirements
nylbenzimidazole Sulfonic acid                  becomes increas-
                                                                      cal and asymmetrical triazines          claims, such as octocrylene-free,
salt forms a radical under UV.                   ingly difficult in   have very poor solubility in many       ethylhexyl methyoxycinnamate
The UVA filter Butyl Methoxy-                   the high and very     solvents.                               (EHMC, octinoxate)-free, non-
dibenzoylmethane (avobenzone)                   high SPF/UVA-PF                                               nano etc. Substitutions for other
must be photo-stabilised.                            segment          What is the challenge when you          discredited ingredients, such as
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxides                                      want to claim preservative-free?        EDTA, PEG/PPG containing raw
as UV-filters must be declared as                                                                             materials, silicones and mineral oil
“nano”. It is important to empha-                                     The claim free from preservatives       are available.
sise that, in comparison to the mo-                                   should not be used any more.            In order to optimise the effective-
                                                                                                              ness of a sunscreen product with
                                                                                                              the lowest possible total amount of
                                                                                                              UV filter, it is necessary to take ac-
                                                                                                              tive decisions based on criteria
                                                                                                              such as effectiveness, performance,
                                                                                                              safety, stability.

                                                                                                              What aspects are important for
                                                                                                              clean beauty in sun care?

                                                                                                              Clean beauty cosmetics have
                                                                                                              emerged as a result of a change in
                                                                                                              values in Western society. Clean
                                                                                                              beauty is the new positive version
                                                                                                              of free-from. Some strict clean
                                                                                                              beauty standards exclude the use
                                                                                                              of synthetic UV filters.
                                                                                                              ICADA has issued a black list of
                                                                                                              about 3,000 ingredients that are
                                                                                                              viewed as critical. Thus, the poten-
UV filters without any concerns are virtually non-existent                                                    tial ED list mentioned above is ex-

24 l COSSMA 1–2 I 2020                                                                                                               www.cossma.com
You can also read