WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? - Think - Urban Redevelopment Authority
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Think See Do Urban issues that matter The city in new light Tips on shaping the city WANDER MORE What makes Chinatown Chinatown? 1
We seek to stay Explore 03 07 11 15 curious with Croc meat and calligraphy Birds’ haven How do you revitalise a river? What if you could cycle this island? wanderlust Step inside clan The birds are flocking Re-experiencing Singapore’s Photographer Joseph Nair associations and wet back to Kranji Marshes, longest river, we catch a tries out 3 cycling routes markets to uncover what Singapore’s largest glimpse of its past and unveiling stunning views that makes Chinatown feel like freshwater marshland. We future. entice us to step on that bike Chinatown. find out why. again. and wonder in See understanding 21 23 26 28 Drawing the If Tin Tin Physical spaces Who is city: batman visits are more that guy our city. and dragons Singapore… than shells in white? 4 out of 33 artists reveal Inspired by Tin Tin and Artist Koh Hong Teng tells us How do you get people to personal glimpses of Doraemon, illustrator Lee why we need to tell stories remember forgotten places? Singapore’s cityscape with Xin Li draws us into an about buildings and places. By taking selfies…of a their works exhibited along the alternate universe of this different kind. sidewalks of the URA Centre island. celebrating Singapore’s 50th birthday in 2015. 31 35 Time Serangoon travelling with Road is not just Royston Tan ‘Little India’ Filmmaker Royston Tan 4 photographers and 30 on panda-hunting and students delved deeper to peel preserving memories. away the rich layers of this historic enclave in a year-long The physical and living spaces around documentation project. us are “not just shells that encase us, but are an extension of ourselves,” says Think comic artist Koh Hong Teng on what fascinates him about buildings and 39 43 46 48 places. They are imprints in time and Lessons from Designing for Making streets From cooking to space that hold stories and secrets of Tiong Bahru’s communities safer for the harvesting flies what was before and what is to come. block 55 disabled Intimately linked to who we are and What can a humble block Enabling Village’s people- Debra Lam, co-founder of Meet Ng Jia Quan, how we live, we seek to stay curious teach us about our past and centric design has been Society Staples, wants to create Singapore’s insect farmer at with wanderlust and wonder in future? bringing communities more conversations and wider Citizen Farm. together. sidewalks for people with understanding our city. It begins with disabilities. telling stories about our urbanscape. Do Wander More presents 16 stories from the e-magazine, Going Places Singapore, 51 54 that capture places in Singapore that 3 ways to live How to grow move us, buildings that teach us, waste free herbs at home individuals who inspire us to rethink Writer Michelle Ng A novice gardener puts her our physical spaces and ways we can get challenged herself to live green thumbs to the test started as active citizens. waste free for a week. by growing her own herb garden. Here are 4 things she learnt from the process. 1
Explore What makes Chinatown feel like Chinatown? How did Kranji Marshes attract the birds again? How do we revitalise Croc meat the longest river? and calligraphy What if we could cycle Step inside clan associations and wet markets to uncover what makes Chinatown feel like Chinatown. around the island? WRITER Daniel Seifert PHOTOGRAPHER Philipp Aldrup We walked, we cycled. local identity and traditions continue to Pop quiz: my shoes smell like a pungent And we stopped. mix of stingray, frog, rambutan and fresh pork meat. Where have I been walking? evolve and fascinate us. Some businesses and stakeholders have found ways to retain its rich soft heritage. The wet market at Chinatown Complex, To rediscover another of course! Sink your teeth into traditions We are on a mission to capture the side of familiar places essence of one of Singapore’s most well- known neighbourhoods. It is less about physical buildings, and more about the What makes this place so evocative is that it still smells like the things it sells. You also get a free show whenever you visit, a around Singapore. enclave’s ‘soft heritage’: an intangible mix of traditions, crafts and businesses that continues to make Chinatown intriguing. whirlwind of activities behind and around the counters. There is a butcher scraping a hog trotter free of its bristles, as lovingly Contrary to some of our perceptions of as a barber giving a high-class wet shave. Chinatown as being highly sanitised, its And in a corner, a cageful of frogs, placidly 2 3
“We want to bring tea culture to people help clans foster a more open mindset here, which is exactly what the founder that helps them put their message out of Pek Sin Choon wanted. If we didn’t to the world. want that so badly, we could have given up 20 years ago.” So how is the business “One suggestion,” Yan Chang says, managing to adapt to modern times? “would be to open up private events For one thing, it isn’t avoiding the online to the public.” While some clans still revolution — they now sell teas online, harbour a more private air, others and have become part of TimeTracks have embraced opening up, and now SG50, an interactive app that tracks a even accept members of different user’s GPS and tells stories behind nationalities, races and religions. local businesses. In fact one of our volunteer guides, Cleverly, none of these changes interfere signed up to be a member. I think she’s with the vintage look and feel of the American, but she can proudly say, shop, allowing for a sweet balancing act ‘this is my clan now’.” between old and new. But at the end of the day, “We have survived thanks to pure perseverance and passion,” says Eng Wah. Finding fresh faces But for me, I’m fine These small businesses still make up the with change. Things are Blogger Victor Yue prominent face of Chinatown, but there are other stakeholders that have faded always changing. All you can do is work hard. shares his love for Chinatown: into the background: clan associations. When Singapore experienced an immigration boom of mainland Chinese people over a century ago, the clans 1 were a vital support system, offering I have lived in or staring out from a sign that reads “4 for youngsters prefer to get out of the protection and contacts in a new city. around this area all $10”. They’re next to a stall that sells business and find other work.” Chinatown Nowadays, the government plays an A 21st century clan my life. As I grow older, I get more “live snake head” and “freshwater eels”. is changing, she admits. increasingly active role, says executive attached. Behind the counter is Yvonne, the third architect Lee Yan Chang, from the URA’s One clan that embodies just such generation in her family to run this stall. “But for me, I’m fine with change. Things conservation management department. a balance of tradition and openness, are always changing. All you can do is He and other planners have been focusing says Yan Chang, is the Gan Clan. 2 “Traditional dishes like this are still work hard.” more on outreach and place management Cleverly, they started a programme popular,” she says, proudly gesturing activities in conservation areas. It’s not that encourages young schoolchildren I love the typical chatting of to her mini-zoo of wares. “Do you Things certainly are changing: a frog’s just the built heritage that architects and to serve as tour guides for a new Cantonese (like sell crocodile meat too?” jokes the leap from her stall is a beautifully planners care for, it’s the soft heritage too. heritage centre that tells the story old times) mixed photographer. “Of course! It’s in the antiquated shophouse next to a sign that of the Gan clan. It is a great way to with other Chinese languages. Of fridge,” she laughs, kicking the humming says “Free Wi-Fi. Log on to wireless@ As part of efforts to revitalise the profile of nurture the next generation to share course, there’s unit with wet sandals. chinatown.” – Chinatown’s delicate dance Chinatown’s many still-existing clans, Yan clan stories from a young age. English and the with tradition and modernity. Chang led walking tours around several other foreign languages too. Turns out she’s not joking. “Do you want associations. These tours are now led by Such measures are largely thanks to the address where I get the meat?” She Yuen Eng Wah, assistant general manager URA volunteers. Stepping inside these Gan Ee Bee, vice honorary secretary of whips out her mobile and promptly at Pek Sin Choon, embodies the hard fascinating associations, he said visitors the association. Previously, the centre 3 recites the location of a crocodile farm work Yvonne espouses. Working at one of “realised there are so many clans over consisted of a quiet, austere room based in Singapore. Who knew? Singapore’s oldest tea merchants takes 100 years old here, still actively serving stuffed with thick curtains and solemn There is still the old (It’s at 321 Neo Tiew Crescent, in case motivation. For Eng Wah, that stems from the community in terms of organising ancestral portraits. Now, a S$500,000 aroma of the typical hawker food, you’re peckish). providing a service to everyday people. events.” But, often clinging to traditional redesign has seen the centre although more “It’s not about what Chinatown needs, ways, these clan associations struggle to brimming with audio-visual materials northern Chinese Are other stalls here multi-generation it’s about what the store can provide for attract new members in a modern world. and historic artefacts (like a roof tile food aromas are taking over. too? Some, she says, but not all. “Many customers,” he says. Hence one of Yan Chang’s remits was to from Confucius’s grandfather’s house). 4 5
“At the same time I feel we should work with social enterprises that support arts and crafts, maybe done by handicapped groups. I think that’s something that really engages the community and draws attention.” Havens of traditional skills Most importantly, perhaps, Ee Bee feels that clan associations embody age-old traditions that they can pass on to the younger generation. Like dialect language skills, music or calligraphy. “Chinatown has so many associations. If each clan could adopt a school by introducing some unique cultural programmes that would be great. That way a premise isn’t left vacant, and it helps clans survive,” he says. It’s worth pondering the link between Chinatown and the deep reservoir of Birds’ haven Chinese traditions and skills held by its residents. The clans are a bastion of this tradition, but if they don’t pass on their skills, the loss of Singapore’s soft heritage The birds are flocking back to Kranji Marshes, could be felt throughout the island. “For Singapore’s largest freshwater marshland. example the lion dancers: their art is We find out why. passed through many generations,” says Yan Chang. “The father is a member of a troupe in a clan and brings his children to WRITER events, which gets them exposed early in Timothy Msir life. They’ll take part and pass on the art PHOTOGRAPHER Image above: URA Coupled with events that appeal to a to the next generation.” Mark Teo executive architect Yan Chang leading younger generation like networking and a tour at Ying Fo wine tasting nights, the clan is hoping to With organisations like the Gan Clan Fui Kun. inject fresh blood into the group. “The adapting to the modern era, whilst current demographics of membership are embracing their roots, Chinatown’s arts quite worrying,” says Ee Bee. and festivals should be able to survive Stepping into Kranji Marshes in the early overhead. It is a sanctuary for migratory and thrive. As we are about to leave the morning is like entering another world – and shore birds, and a respite from the The clan has even rented out part of its building, the photographer asks if we new sounds, smells and sights. I imagine city for the rest of us. premises to a high-end restaurant, a should close the rolling partitions which this must be what Singapore’s landscape clever way to reroute young professionals Ee Bee rolled back to reveal the view of looked like before it was transformed into Marshes are waterlogged low-lying land and families who come for a meal, and Bukit Pasoh. “No, you can leave them like a dense metropolis. areas that flood during wet seasons or are then intrigued by the heritage tour that,” she smiles. “Sometimes it’s good to during high-tide. They support a wide right next door. There are even plans open up.” Lying on the northwestern shore of Kranji range of aquatic plants, including reeds to potentially work with designers who Reservoir, there’s plenty to look out and grasses that function as natural imbibe the rich, 2,500-year-old history URA has been collaborating with the for in Kranji Marshes in the 20-minute habitats and shelter for a variety of fishes, of the Gan clan, then design attractive community to organise free walking walk through Neo Tiew Woods, from amphibians, invertebrates and birds. products that weave in that heritage. “I tours and cultural activities at the visitor’s centre at Kranji Gate to the While the public might be familiar with think it could be something meaningful Chinatown. To find out more, visit Marsh Station and core conservation wetlands because of the Sungei Buloh that people want to keep,” Ee Bee beams. http://uraconservation.eventbrite.com. area, including insects, monitor lizards Nature Reserve, a brackish (saltwater) and birds perched atop trees or flying mangrove swamp, the freshwater Kranji 6 7
4 things to do at Kranji Marshes: 1 Enjoy stunning sky-high views from Kranji Marshes’ raptor tower. Look out for landmarks such as the Moorhen pond and the BBC shortwave relay station. 2 Have a one-of- a-kind outdoor learning experience at the Kingfisher Burrow. And climb to its arch for an instagram-worthy shot. 3 Construction began in 2014, and it took Bird-watch from blinds and hides. Image above: Marshes is dominated not by trees but by to return, they need the area to have a almost 2 years to clear and develop Spot shy birds Second Minister for National grasses, sedges and ferns, resulting in an good balance of exposed water area and the area. like the Common open landscape. vegetation,” Tuan Wah explained. Moorhen or the Development, marshes’ signature Desmond Lee, Former URA executive architect Lim Chu bird, the Purple spotted many birds at the opening of “Freshwater habitats are very rare in Opened to the public in 2016, Kranji Hwai who worked on the project said the Swamphen. the Kranji Marshes. Singapore, and at 57 hectares this is the Marshes is substantial and harbours a agency approached the site differently biggest one accessible to the public, so very rich array of marshland wildlife, in from how it plans parks or its other 4 you’ll see a lot of interesting birds not particular birds. The area is an important projects, as the primary user at Kranji found anywhere else”, National Parks roosting and feeding area for migratory Marshes is nature – birds in particular. Indulge in your Board (NParks) director of conservation shorebirds between August and April, “In this rather urbanised setting, parks inner child with Wong Tuan Wah said. The marsh was and is home to more than 170 species are usually man-made where you can sticks and stones. Kids and adults created in the early 1970s with the of birds, 54 species of butterflies, and 33 put in structures and plant lots of things alike love the many damming of the Kranji River that flooded species of dragonflies. One can also find to recreate nature. But here is a natural twig structures the low-lying catchment area. It functions threatened species of birds like the Purple landscape formed over time, left intact lying around the marshes. Think as a natural filtration system, cleaning Swamphen, Red-wattled Lapwing and and nature has claimed it back, so the of all the fun and filtering sediment-heavy water from Purple Heron here. consultants and engineers to restore primary idea is to keep and sensitively possibilities. several canals that flow into the marsh and enhance the existing habitats, restore this old and pristine landscape before draining into the Kranji Reservoir. A concerted effort provide public amenities and facilitate for the natural inhabitants. And only Left untouched for many years, the visitors to learn more about the area’s after achieving that, to provide public area became a habitat for many types Nature Society (Singapore) has managed biodiversity. “This is a very good example amenities and access so that the public of wildlife, but the vegetation has since 2 ponds in the area since 2008, when of the ‘three-Ps’ model where nature can enjoy this area,” he said. become overgrown, cutting off the it adopted the marsh under Public conservation involves the engagement of water surface and preventing birds from Utilities Board (PUB)’s Active, Beautiful, the three sectors of the community – the The project team also engaged nature foraging and hunting for food sources. Clean Waters Programme, but the public, private, and people, resulting in conservationists and ornithologists. “This restoration of the marshes saw the the successful long-term conservation is important because there are some very “If not maintained, the water surface involvement of public agencies like URA, of a substantial nature area,” Nature rare species here, and freshwater marshes areas will not be left open for long, as NParks, PUB, and groups like Nature Society (Singapore) vice-chairman of the have birds that are disappearing from water weeds grow very quickly. For birds Society (Singapore), as well as experts, conservation committee Ho Hua Chew said. Singapore altogether. Once the baseline 8 9
of the flora and fauna of the area was set, the scarcity of land, the government we determined where the important areas has set aside about 10 percent of the are, and fine-tuned the development country’s land area for nature, including plan: where to put the footpaths, bridges nature reserves and parks. “In terms of and hides, as we know where the sensitive biodiversity, it is important to have a areas are to avoid,” wildlife consultant variety and network of different habitats Subaraj Rajathurai, who also monitored complementing and supporting each the bird and wildlife population of the other to form a rich and complex whole, habitat monthly during its refurbishment, otherwise, fragmented parks and greens said. “We made sure not to cut down are generally weaker and have less certain trees, like the albizias, which are biodiversity on their own,” Chu Hwai said very good for birds,” he added. about the importance of wetlands in Singapore’s urban fabric. To minimise disturbance to wildlife and the marsh, an amphibious excavator was To minimise visitor and human impact on used to clear overgrown vegetation in the reserve, parts of the core conservation the ponds and to form new islets. They area will gradually be opened for public created different habitats in the area, access, depending on how the birds react. such as islands for birds and other places “We’re not just talking about a dense city for them to perch, what Sungei Buloh itself, but a dense city with lots of greens, Wetlands Reserve deputy director How and different types of greens. Success for Choon Beng calls “mixed-use housing”. this particular project is how much nature How do you we retain, and how many birds we’ll be The amenities and facilities, mostly able to keep at the end of the day,” URA pre-fabricated offsite, include the 11-m director (projects) Teo Chong Yean said. tall lookout tower, floating boardwalks and 8 blinds and hides for bird watching Subaraj said he noticed a rapid increase revitalise a river? and observing wildlife at close quarters. in bird life and other biodiversity as The eco-friendly and sustainable soon as the habitat was cleared. “So far, Re-experiencing Singapore’s longest river, we catch a glimpse of its past and future. infrastructure and amenities – skylights, based on the variety I’ve found – I’ve green roofs, and benches made from just did a survey a few weeks ago and recycled tree trunks – blend seamlessly found 68 species of birds in one morning into the natural surroundings. – indicates that it’s been successful,” WRITER he said. “The fact that URA is willing to Jennifer Eveland Giving wildlife a boost come to a nature area to do planning and PHOTOGRAPHER design here, and got us [Nature Society] Wilson Pang Singapore has proven that a high-density to give advice and consultation shows the living environment does not have to government’s commitment to preserving come at the expense of nature – despite this place as a nature area for the public to enjoy, which is a good thing. The enhancement they’ve done will definitely From Lower Pierce Reservoir in the the steady flow of time and the ever- bring a larger variety of wildlife, birdlife centre of the island, the Kallang River changing nature of life itself, the Kallang especially, to the area,” Hua Chew said at Success for this the opening of begins its journey, winding its way past high-rise heartland neighbourhoods River is it. particular project is how the reserve. and low-rise industrial estates. It flows We re-experience the river’s rich history much nature we retain, According to him, the best times to dutifully through lush parks and concrete canals alike, under massive bridges and and biodiversity and learn how it can continue to stand the test of time. and how many birds visit are at the crack of dawn and in the evenings, as there are more chances to expressways with ubiquitous acronyms Otters and purple heron like CTE (Central Expressway) and PIE we’ll be able to keep at spot the rare birds then. (Pan Island Expressway) and a heritage the end of the day. Visit Kranji Marshes 11 Neo Tiew Lane 2 bridge named for merdeka, the call for the nation’s independence. Singapore’s An oasis of lush growth amid the cityscape, Bishan-Ang Mo Kio Park is longest river is 10 km long, but if ever a more than just an idyllic site for a river river symbolised the power of nature, to run. It’s a testament to the will and 10 11
3 things to know the ability of people to reclaim their our natural heritage by literally digging about Kallang river’s history: natural heritage. Where the river once deeper under the river itself. passed through a gaping concrete gash In the NSS 2007 feedback on Bishan-Ang of a canal, it now feeds 62 hectares of Mo Kio Park ABC Waters Programme, in 1 parkland frequented by wildlife, thanks which Hua Chew was involved, the society to the Active, Beautiful and Clean Waters advocated for the removal of concrete The Kallang river in its early days was Programme (ABC Waters) by the Public from the entire river bed and not just the Utilities Board (PUB) and National Parks banks. “The uncovering of the mud-bed The greening home to different communities, one Board (NParks). of the former canal, even to some extent, of the river of which was the orang laut (sea would attract wildlife that haunts the gypsies), who lived “The greening of the river along this softer mud-beds at the shallow waters in the vicinity until 1848. stretch is very effective in terms of as well as the river-bottom,” he says. along this stretch is biodiversity and aesthetics,” says Dr Ho “This will make the river more alive Hua Chew, vice-chair of the Conservation and interesting as well as ecologically 2 Committee at the Nature Society (Singapore) (NSS). Speaking from his own beneficial.” very effective “Kallang” could be a variant of the experience, he’s noticed more marshland Living by the river’s edge in terms of Malay word, kelang, meaning “mill” or birdlife feeding along the river and the marshy banks. More than 800,000 residents live within biodiversity “factory”. Industrial activities were “Very significant is the appearance of a 2 km from the river. Gently down the stream in Geylang Bahru, residents and aesthetics. prevalent near the mouths of various family of smooth otters, and the nesting can be seen fishing every day and, on rivers in the 1820s. of a purple heron on an angsana tree by rare occasions, kayaking. When the Ng the riverside,” says Hua Chew. “Frequent family moved here in 2007 they had no and that’s enough.” conservation in 2008. The airport was and regular otter sightings indicate that idea how much they would enjoy the Singapore’s first purpose-built civil airport 3 they have made their home here and not river. They chose their block, which is Rich with landmarks commissioned by the British colonial Kallang River just visiting or exploring. The nesting of nestled in a fork where a canal branches government in the 1930s. When it first became highly the purple heron is a first for Bishan-Ang off towards Whampoa, in part for the polluted until the To see Kallang Basin now, it’s hard to opened, it was touted as one of clean-up in the Mo Kio Park and is very important, as unobstructed view that follows the path imagine the swamplands where early the most modern airport of its time 1970s and 1980s. nesting sites of this species are rare in of the river where it runs to the sea. On Javanese settlers, the orang kallang, with revolutionary facilities. Its runway Untreated waste Singapore. It’s a good sign of the health a clear day you can spy tiny cargo ships and sewage from lived on boats over 200 years ago. They is now Old Airport Road; its control hawkers and and viability of the wetland at this on the horizon. This wouldn’t be possible were resettled long before decades of tower vacant. market vegetable stretch.” if not for the river, says Bernard Ng. He land reclamation began in the 1930s, vendors used to spends time with his family by the river be dumped into permanently changing the river’s course. Remembering the old Kallang Gasworks, the river. Hua Chew believes we can dig further into jogging, scooting and fishing. The 1960s saw kampong houses making Lim Leong Seng, the sculptor created way for Housing & Development Board The Spirit of Kallang, using pipes “In Singapore, there is so much water flats and industrial blocks. By the late and other fittings from the gasworks. around us, but there is comparatively very 1970s, the water had turned to filth, Kallang Gasworks was built in 1862 by little interaction with the water,” he says. prompting a clean-up that would spark the Singapore Gas Company to supply There’s a lot of safety concerns about Singapore’s water story. piped gas for street lighting. Many locals getting into the water but that issue can would avoid the Kallang area due to the be explored progressively. “There’s no Over time, the area grew rich with strong stench of gas and fears of the plant need for planned water activities, either,” landmarks. Still today, the circa-1888 exploding, giving it the name “fire city”, he adds. “Just go in and dip your feet in Sri Manmatha Karuneshvarar Temple or huay sia in Hokkien. After over 130 welcomes Hindu devotees, and the years of service, supplying the nation’s Merdeka Bridge, built in 1956, connects first piped gas to fuel streetlights and the riverbanks via Nicoll Highway. The employing generations, it was phased former Kallang Airport that hasn’t seen out in 1998. “Preserving memories of a plane since 1955 is now used for these public places is important since sports, recreation, offices or other forms it highlights the social obligation of of community uses in the interim. The the citizenry and gives them a sense terminal building has been gazetted for of belonging despite a relative short 12 13
historical heritage,” says Leong Seng. The river’s future The kallang wave The river offers fresh possibilities for more to enjoy its meandering streams, strolling, cycling and mingling As the river nears the sea, its banks widen through neighbourhoods and communities and living and to form the Kallang Basin, a large body of working close to the water’s edge. And for more to come water made fresh after the construction out to play, with a wider range of sporting activities and of the Marina Barrage in 2008. It’s hard community spaces, celebrating its spirit and beauty. to miss the Singapore Sports Hub, the massive complex built to house virtually URA planners reimagined the river’s future with these top every sport facility Singaporeans can 10 ideas revealed in 2017. What if imagine. Kallang has been synonymous with sports since the 1973 opening of the Green Corridor original National Stadium. The new mega sporting complex which replaced it in 1. Bishan-Ang Mo Kio Park to Gardens by the Bay – greenery along 2014 will build on that legacy. the river can be enhanced, tapping on the rich biodiversity within these two parks. you could “It’s unlike other stadiums which are built 2. Underpass below the Central Expressway (CTE) – this space for the sole purpose of hosting major could be turned into a vibrant community space with better games,” says Chin Sau Ho, Singapore headroom, lighting and seating. Sports Club senior director of corporate communications and stakeholder Bridging Neighbourhoods management. “We have a long-term cycle this vision of serving as a catalyst for the 3. Across Kallang Bahru and Upper Boon Keng Roads – possible emergence of sport in Singapore.” underpasses could be developed across these roads for seamless access for pedestrians and cyclists. Around the shores of the basin, joggers run through shady parks and kayakers 4. Below Sims Avenue – a possible underpass link can be developed launch their boats from palm-lined for greater connectivity along the riverfront to the Sports Hub. beaches, and not a day passes without island? 5. Across the Pan Island Expressway (PIE) – What if you can cycle or spotting a dragon boat plying the calm jog across the PIE? A possible cyclist-friendly crossing over the PIE waters. “Kallang is the main venue for can make this a reality. our events,” says Jason Chen, founder of Dragon Boat Innovate, an events company that organises corporate dragon boating New Homes & Communities activities. For over 20 years Jason has 6. Kallang Distripark – close to the upcoming Geylang Bahru MRT, been a competitive paddler, coach and this private industrial estate can be transformed into a quality dragon boat advocate. “I live for dragon residential precinct in future, with park and recreational spaces. boating,” he says. He launches his events 7. Kallang Industrial Estate – this 73 ha estate can be turned into from a few of the parks surrounding Photographer Joseph Nair tries out 3 cycling routes unveiling a vibrant mixed-use precinct with high-rise facilities to meet Kallang Basin, which he says are very modern industrial needs, closely integrated with future residential stunning views that entice us to step on that bike again. impressive to his clients, meetings, developments along the waterfront and parks. incentives, conferences and exhibitions (MICE) travellers. “They also get to see the 8. Kampong Bugis – a stone’s throw away from the Lavendar and WRITER / PHOTOGRAPHER Kallang MRT stations, the area is planned to be an attractive Joseph Nair Central Business District from the middle precinct that supports active mobility and environmental of the Kallang Basin, and the natural side sustainability. of Singapore they don’t get to see from the inside of a hotel room,” he says. Enlivening the River 9. Jason remembers when paddlers had the Kallang Riverside – this area is envisioned to be a vibrant mixed freedom to travel upriver all the way to use district in the longer term. In the interim, the conserved Bishan, exploring the network of canals Kallang airport terminal can be re-used for community sports and that go through distinct neighbourhoods recreational activities. 10. from the water’s vantage point. It is an Waterfront along Jalan Benaan Kapal – a possible 8 ha play zone unforgettable experience for him. with recreational and sporting facilities for all ages is being studied 14
Route 1 I don’t own a car, so getting from point A to B always meant a bus, taxi or MRT ride. Cycling has never been an option for me. Cycling, or so I thought, was only for the Dutch and the Lycra-clad. But with LOOP, an app designed by students from the Singapore Management University, a journey planner and route tracker designed for recreational and newbie cyclists like me, I borrowed a foldable bike, dug up a helmet and hit the streets. Thankfully, one cannot forget how to ride a bike. 1 2 3 The commute test (route 1) The first step: test how practical LOOP is for a commute. Queenstown and Aljunied seemed a reasonable distance, so off I went. I fired up the app, entered the coordinates, and picked between the ‘shortest’ or ‘safest’ route. The latter felt more suitable for me, the almost- never cyclist, but I went a step further and divided the route into two: from Queenstown to Raffles Place, and then to 4 5 Sims Drive, where I had arranged to meet a friend. Once everything was keyed in, 4 off I went. The map on LOOP marked the shop out the moon”) is popular for those seeking 6 things you at a corner of a HDB block nearby. So I love. A few photographs later, I set for From the eastern can see/do on cycling route 1: Unfortunately, there wasn’t a ‘Scenic wheeled the bike over and accessorised, Sims Drive to Marina Barrage before bank of Kallang Basin, take a photo Queenstown, Meander’ mode on LOOP – but that’s happy that the app creators added crossing over to the eastern side of the of Marina Bay Raffles Place, where my photographer’s instincts kicked that very useful little touch. Soon, the Kallang Basin. Sands, Art Science Sims Drive: in. So for my first scenic stop, I climbed skyscrapers of the Central Business District Museum, the Singapore Flyer, up to the roof garden on the 47th floor (CBD) loomed over me. I decided to pay a Here, I found an amazing, and little-known, with office towers 1 of SkyVille @ Dawson. From this vantage visit to Yueh Hai Ching Temple or “temple vantage point: from the eastern bank of in the backdrop – point, Indonesia’s Riau Islands peeked out of the calm sea”. the Kallang Basin, you can capture the 6 all in one frame. Catch glimpses from behind the blocks of Telok Blangah, Marina Bay Sands, Art Science Museum of Indonesia’s Riau Islands from and to the north, the city of Johor Bahru Tucked in a corner off Raffles Place, this and the Singapore Flyer, with the CBD 5 the 47th floor of was visible. small temple has been standing here towers lined up behind them – all in one SkyVille @ Dawson. since the 1820s. It’s now dwarfed by office frame. Even the Geylang River and its wide in time. Enjoy the beautiful After scouting out the rooftop – there’s towers, but back then it was the first port- park connector were unexpectedly pretty. Geylang river and its wide park 2 a jogging path encircling it – I took of-call for migrants from the Chaoshan Once home to boatyards and traders, the I stopped at the junction of Lorong connector. the lift down, hopped on the bike and region of Guangdong, China, after their river is now a lined canal. Bachok and Geylang Lorong 19 to see this Check out the continued my journey. Or at least tried to. long sea voyage. shophouse, with its iconic painted plaster jogging path also on the 47th floor. The seat of my bike was too hard, and I I also got to meet, by chance, the people reliefs. A Sepoy sergeant in pre-World War 6 knew I needed to do something about it. Figures from Chinese mythology stand on who keep the waters clean. The Waterway II puttees and a Sikh guard adorn the front Stop by the Fortunately, I met a bicycle courier while the temple’s roof – these were only added Watch Society organises regular clean-ups, of this well-maintained 1929 shophouse. A junction of 3 waiting for a traffic light who pointed me after the temple underwent renovations like this one with students from Damai strange menagerie of animals plays across Lorong Bachok to a bike shop nearby where I could find a in 2014. Among the deities the temple Secondary School. Leaving the slick park its beautiful façade. That was my last stop and Geylang Visit the Yueh Hai Lorong 19 to Ching temple at the padded seat cover. honours, Yue Lao (literally “old man under connector and entering Geylang, with before dinner and a train ride home – so admire a 1929 corner off Raffles its five-foot-ways, small temples and far, so good. Tomorrow, I would test out shophouse with Place, around since labyrinth of back alleys, was like a trip back the cycling routes that LOOP users have its iconic painted the 1820s. plaster reliefs. contributed to the database. 16 17
Route 2 4 things you can see/do on cycling The air was much cooler route 2: Punggol Park, Sungei Serangoon, Lorong Halus: here, thanks to 3 the casuarina 1 woodlands, and is filled with Enjoy the popular Punggol Park, with Pokémon hunters, #fitspo people and instagram birdsong in the boyfriends. 1 2 4 evening. The Route 3 sandy main trail crunched under 2 Check out the iconic Lorong Halus bridge and my tyres. take a shot at the popular photo spot amongst the reed wetlands. 3 Pedal along Sungei Serangoon to reach 1 2 3 Coney island with cooler air, filled with birdsong and sandy trails. 3 things you can see/do on cycling 4 The crowdsourced route test (route 2) Over the Lorong Halus bridge, the The navigation test (route 3) Sidled alongside the reservoir, the golf route 3: Yishun, temperamental sky almost forced me course of Seletar Country Club makes Seletar Country Encounter monkeys Club, Punggol In addition to recommending routes based to call off my trip. Further down from To test the navigation capabilities of LOOP, for some surreal night photography. along the way Barat island: via the western on coordinates you key in, LOOP has a the bridge, the reed wetlands of Lorong I decided I’d go on a night ride around LOOP has no robotic voice squawking causeway. library of cycling routes that have been Halus are a popular photo spot when somewhere unfamiliar: Yishun. I set the out directions, which I appreciated for crowdsourced from other cyclists. Users dry. They serve as natural filters of water app for Khatib MRT and set off. Crossing not disturbing the quiet of the night. It 1 can rate and comment on these routes, and that flows out the now-disused Lorong Pulau Punggol Timur, I passed migrant did give me a clear path to follow, but the app ranks them by popularity. I picked Halus landfill into the Sungei Serangoon. workers as they made video and phone didn’t call me back to the route when Discover the lesser known Punggol the “North Eastern Riverine Loop”, a 16-km calls or brought groceries back to their I did wander off, which was often the Barat island. route across park connectors in Sengkang I pedalled down from the wetlands dormitories. Directions on the app brought case on these 3 routes. and Punggol. to emerge on Coney Island. The air me to a long, lonely path along Seletar was much cooler here, thanks to the North Link, over to Punggol Barat Island As a photographer in search of new 2 Starting at Punggol Park, I weaved around casuarina woodlands, and is filled with and near Seletar Airport. I had no clue places and angles to shoot, the Relax at Yishun Pokémon hunters, #fitspo people and birdsong in the evening. The sandy islands like that existed until I saw them recommended routes feature let me Dam, where many Instagram boyfriends. The route traced a main trail crunched under my tyres. marked out on the LOOP map. plan (at least a little) in advance. And families and portion of the length of Sungei Serangoon, a After cycling about 2.4 km around the fact that the app displayed nearby couples sit and mingle. river dammed up to form a reservoir. Pandan the island, I made my way off it via I took a break to enjoy the strong breeze services – like the bike store on my plants along the park connector made for a the western causeway while a troop at Yishun Dam, where many families and first trip – meant that maybe, cycling pleasant ride. However, the popularity of the of moneys watched. And then it was couples had driven to sit in the quiet and might not only be for the Dutch and 3 route was also its undoing – I found myself back to the Sunday throng on the park take in the view. The navigation LOOP Lycra-clad. stuck in pedestrian and bicycle traffic. I connector. My final stop on the route: provided was surprisingly accurate so far, Indulge in some surreal night decided to test the journey-tracking function Punggol Point, to catch the last rays of taking me around the area without much Download LOOP on Google Play and photography at of the app, so I turned off the suggested path sunlight dancing across the surface of fuss. From the Dam, I followed the tree- iTunes. Seletar Country into the quieter Lorong Halus. the water. lined Yishun Avenue 1 to Lower Seletar Club’s golf course. Reservoir Park. 18 19
Drawing the city: See batman and dragons 4 out of 33 artists reveal personal glimpses of Singapore’s cityscape with their works exhibited along the sidewalks of the URA Centre celebrating Singapore’s 50th birthday in 2015. “I wanted to just draw places, WRITER Serene Tng people and memories that I have of Singapore. It makes me realise How did you get started? how much I miss home,” says artist It was my mum’s drawing of a Power Ranger for my birthday and finding a stack of old (maybe hidden?) comic Andre Wee who reconstructed a book superhero sketches by my dad that inspired me to pick up the pencil to draw. My time in the army has also helped. They version of Singapore from memory used to say in Hendon Camp, “the only easy day was yesterday!” in a whimsical piece. Andre Wee ARTIST, ILLUSTRATOR, VIRTUAL REALITY WORLD BUILDER Tell us more about this piece. You have Real and imagined, from Batman included Batman! Why? I wanted to just draw places, people to Tin Tin and carpark wardens, and memories that I have of Singapore. Without a fixed plan of the drawing in mind, there was room for nuance 6 artists, 1 filmmaker and 5 and play. I reconstructed a version of Singapore out of memory, as I had been Elliot away for some years, depicting both the photographers are doing more than real and factual with the imagined and playful. Working on this image has been STUDENT, PATHLIGHT SCHOOL therapeutic, making me realise how Tell us more about this piece and what just capturing poignant aspects much I miss home! Batman is a reference I associate with Singapore. Whenever I inspires you. walk pass Parkview Square, it reminds This is a Merlion. I used the Singapore flag of our evolving cityscape. me of Gotham City, home to the comic character Batman. I always imagine colours of white and red, as well as blue to represent the sea, befitting of Singapore’s Batman perched at the top. Not many origins as a trading port. I am inspired by people know its actual name but smile anime and cartoons. Drawing helps me to instantly with clarity when the ‘Batman relax but sometimes I just draw because I building’ is mentioned. feel like it in the moment. 20 21
If Tin Tin visits Singapore Inspired by Tin Tin and Doraemon, illustrator Lee Xin Li draws us into an alternate universe of this island. WRITER Serene Tng Alice Lim REGULATORY SPECIALIST (LET’S DRAW! SINGAPORE) You drew a familiar scene from a HDB flat. What’s the story there? I wanted to share this gorgeous view from a nearby Housing & Development Board Don Low (HDB) flat in Marine Parade where I live. ILLUSTRATOR AND DESIGNER (LET’S DRAW! SINGAPORE) This is the view you enjoy while waiting for the lift. I slightly distorted it to include Why did you draw this particular things that residents keep outside their location? flats like potted plants, clothes hangers and bicycles. It is a way of revealing a It’s where I grew up. I walked this street peek into people’s lives. to school every day when I was a student. Back then, the shophouses were mostly What inspires you to draw? residential and they looked pretty old. My mum still lives nearby at Block 6 Everton I just need a pen and some paper Park, which sits on a mound overlooking to start drawing. It is a great use of this street. It was where I stood to draw waiting or traveling time. I like to seek this place, which explains the higher out interesting shop fronts, signages vantage point on this sketch. The white and buildings with unusual facades in building on the left has remained fairly historical areas. Details excite me because the same till now despite going through I love to capture everything I see. My several refurbishments. I like how the philosophy is “If I can see it, I will draw it.” current owner lined the five-foot-way I like it when people look at my sketches corridor with pots of plants, giving the and comment how they had left out these building a human touch against its white- details even though they had known the washed walls. place all along. Tell us more about yourself. What inspires you to draw? I used to be an engineer but my love for Illustrator Lee Xin Li’s works draw you in with his imaginative art compelled me to become an artist. I layers of Singapore, blending the real and the dreamlike. am currently self-employed as a freelance Self-taught, he started producing illustrations in 2013. He has illustrator and designer, working in both drawn iconic buildings from the former Kallang Airport, the digital and traditional mediums. I also National Theatre, to Tanjong Pagar Railway Station. Perhaps teach part-time as a drawing and painting his most poignant work is of a jubilant Mr Lee Kuan Yew at the instructor. Drawing provides me a means to Commonwealth Close Estate, based on a photograph taken by express myself freely without having to find photographer Larry Burrows from LIFE magazine. words for my thoughts or feelings. I like how my drawings can help record a moment in We catch up with him on his drawings and how we can we keep time in our ever-changing world. our heritage alive. 22 23
Why do you draw? Drawing enables me to go deeper to rediscover colours, shapes and flavours; from the seemingly common kueh (local snack), to going on an imaginative journey back into an alternate Singapore where Neo Tiew remains a quaint little estate, or if Tanjong Pagar Railway Station became a high-speed railway station. Who is your inspiration? Herge’s Adventures of Tin Tin and the Fujiko Fujio’s Doraemon series. Tell us about your favourite drawing. It’s Neo Tiew (image on the top right) – because it meant so much to me when I was a child. Neo Tiew is a small public housing estate in Lim Chu Kang built in 1979. The estate is now being used for military training. But back in those days, my mum and relatives used to work at the coffee shop there, selling drinks and food such as chicken rice. My dad would drive my siblings and I in his van to Neo Tiew where we would play at the circular playground. It has a small village feel, quite like Changi Village. It is a pity that the place is no longer inhabited after 2002. The drawing itself is an alternate universe of what Neo Tiew could have been. How do we balance between managing change in our landscape and keeping our heritage alive? We need to continue to be sensitive to the historical context and present circumstances beyond pragmatic needs and superficial applications. There is also a need for active and effective engagement with stakeholders like architects, historians and residents. I am envious of what I see in Kyoto in Japan or Yilan in Taiwan, but I don’t think it is possible to simply take their model and plant it in Singapore. We need to develop our own unique model for Singapore that can accommodate both our development aspirations and create a landscape with a soul at the same time. 24 25
Physical spaces are Tell us about your growing up years. more than shells I grew up in Kampong Chai Chee in the early 1970s, living in a big compound, in wooden houses with attap and zinc Artist Koh Hong Teng tells us why we need to tell roofs. When I was 6, I moved to Bedok stories about buildings and places. New Town where my family operated a provision shop. That was where I WRITER first came across a hawker centre as Serene Tng it was situated just next to the row of shophouses I lived in. It was there that I had the wonderful experience of eating Mee Rebus for the first time. imprints in time and space. We ask ourselves why a particular How has your neighbourhood building was designed this way. We can influenced your work? also learn to identify the period when it was built by looking at the architectural There was a tailor living next to our style. It gives suggestions to the type of shophouse and I remembered playing dwellers and users of this space and how hide and seek with his son and other they maximise their use and comfort. kids in the neighbourhood. He had a full What is interesting to me is that these length window that displayed his clothes spaces are not just shells that encase us, on half torso mannequins dressed with but rather an extension of ourselves. ‘洋服’ (yang fu), meaning Western-style clothes. There were other fascinating You say it’s important to tell stories shops in the neighbourhood which was about our buildings and places. Why? Image above: A drawing of the old the major influence when I created the National Stadium painting series “BLKS&NOS” depicting It is important because it is not just your as remembered these unique shop spaces. Sadly, some of personal memory when you tell them, by ex-national footballer Malek the shops I painted like the watch shop but it becomes a collective memory when Awab, featured in and television repair shop are no longer others get to read them. And we can grow the book, “Building around. as a community only if we share and care Memories – People Architecture for one another. So I would say the best Independence” What is one building you would like to way to get started is the willingness to and a No. 01-667 bring back? share. Of what tools and techniques to (BLKS&NOS Series), Acrylic on Canvas, employ are secondary. The important 900 x 1200 mm Definitely the old National Stadium. It thing is the authenticity of your story and (bottom) holds wonderful memories for two of my passions: football and art. I remembered watching Au-Yeong Pak Kuan, Terry Pathmanathan and Malek Awab playing when my grandfather brought me to the stadium for the first time. As for art, it was the venue for the art competition hosted by Singapore Airlines that I took Image above: Comic artist and illustrator Koh Hong Teng is known for part in when I was in the second year of Comic pages from “The Prodigy”, with tackling issues close to Singaporeans’ hearts from hawkers Junior College. writer Dave Chua. to generational gaps between parents and children. He combines fact and fiction in thought-provoking graphic Architecture is the backdrop where forms that reflects our changing urban landscape. He talks things happen. What fascinates you about how the neighbourhood he grew up in influences his about it? work and suggests that telling stories about our physical spaces can help us grow as a community. When we look at an architecture, we see 26 27
Who is that guy in white? How do you get people to remember forgotten places? By taking selfies…of a different kind. WRITER Serene Tng Tell us about your 50th shot. (image on the left) This is my grandparents’ old Housing & Development Board block at Bukit Merah View. I was raised by my grandparents for the first 2 years of my life, spending my childhood at this very block. My time was spent playing games of chase and catch, and hide-and-seek with my brother and cousins along the corridors. I even remember riding my bike down the stairs and falling, resulting in a very bad swollen bump on my forehead. I started the Yesteryear project inspired by my grandparents’ flat, wanting to recapture such places with vivid memories. It is apt that I am ending the series with this personal space. This single image sums up the entire series. What are some of your most memorable shots? The 41st image is one of them. This place has one of the last un-dammed rivers in Singapore. It used to be a kampung before the villagers were evicted in 2007. It is a mangrove forest and the villagers used to build their houses along the mudflats and river, rearing prawns and fish. It was quite an experience for me to navigate my way through in the mangroves, with my feet What started out on just a simple whim to ‘cure boredom’ has completely submerged in the mud. It turned into a memorable Yesteryear project that has captured felt like it took forever just to walk a few people’s imagination about forgotten places in Singapore. A steps forward. It was slippery and there liberal arts student from the Nanyang Technological University, were shells, rocks, and crabs that made Sean Cham took 50 surreal photographs of abandoned places walking in the mud much harder. I had my in 2015 as a tribute to Singapore turning 50. Why surreal? Sean toe stubbed in the process of taking the places himself in all of the photos, dressed in all white from photo, standing in my own pool of blood head to toe. He does everything by himself, from researching as I viewed the images on my camera. and selecting each place to planning and capturing each shot. The project has helped him gain a new appreciation for places and spaces as vessels of memories. 28 29
Any interesting stories behind the places? So places to you are like vessels of memories. Time travelling Each place has its own unique story and contributes to the larger Singapore story. The success of Singapore in transforming from a third-world country to a first-world with Royston Tan There was a shoot-out between the police metropolis in a mere span of over 50 Filmmaker Royston Tan on panda-hunting and 2 convicts in the cemetery featured years is an incredible one. We owe this and preserving memories. in the 44th photograph. Both convicts success to our forefathers and the pioneer subsequently committed suicide with generation, without which we would not WRITER gunshots to their heads. As for the 31st be able to enjoy gleaming skyscrapers, Vicki Yang shot, it was rumoured that the Japanese beautiful streets and greenery in our city soldiers used prisoners of war as chess today. We have progressed so much as a pieces; hence I recreated this in the nation. But as with progress, there will be photograph. And in my 43rd image, it change. It is important for us to strike a was actually taken within the National balance between embracing change and University of Singapore campus, right preserving the old. Every single building, behind the Science block. I doubt many place, and space has its own unique story, students will know about that. This place a story forged by the people who live witnessed the grotesque battle of Bukit and work there, a story of the change it Chandu where the Malay Regiment fought has undergone, a story of the events and against the invading Japanese army. happenings revolving around it. Filmmaker Royston Tan is charged with a mission: to document the passing of things before they become history. His feature-length film, 3688 (2015), gives the much-maligned local parking attendants their day in the sun — for the first half of the film at least. Parking attendant Fei Fei, played by singer Joi Chua, is constantly undermined by a wily band of ‘summon aunties’, as parking attendants are known in local lexicon, as they patrol in the Dakota Crescent neighbourhood. Soon, the plot unfurls the uneven road to stardom as Fei Fei joins a singing competition. But it isn’t about the transformative dreams of a girl from the suburbs (or car park) that takes precedence on screen. The film’s preoccupation is with the forceful march of time — the reminiscences of Fei Fei’s dementia-ridden father, his ritual of hawking Rediffusion radios as a former door-to-door salesman and the ‘summon aunties’ retrenched and replaced with electronic gantries. 30 31
“A lot of people summarise the film as the of time came to Royston during a lunch something Royston repeats constantly as when the 7-year-old left the kampong life passing of an era and the ownership of at Maxwell Food Centre. “This parking we chat and chronicle his filmography. of Lorong Kinchir, today Lorong Chuan in the past generation,” surmises Royston. attendant came in and everyone ran away From documentaries of old landmarks the Serangoon district, to HDB life in the One scene that found particular favour very fast, screaming ‘Fong Fei Fei’ and and suburban shops in Old Places (2010) early 1980s. with the older generation was what he all kinds of names, but she only went to and Old Romances (2012), to a short called ‘the simple sound design’ of the the toilet to change into another outfit film on the oldest Hokkien opera troupe “I was from the transitional period — the Rediffusion radio knob being turned by so that she can buy lunch!” says the like Sin Sai Hong (2006), one might infer last generation to stay in the kampong, Fei Fei. “It triggered something in many filmmaker, almost desperately. “A lot of that Royston’s filmography is deeply the transition from non-digital to digital,” people.” times, I find them sitting in the back alley, entrenched in nostalgia. However, he says the filmmaker. “It was traumatising eating lunch where I like to go to shoot for doesn’t shoot with rose-tinted lens. To the for me to move. The air was different, the Race against time my Instagram. If not, they will be getting filmmaker, these works aim to highlight people would not talk to each other, the stares and all kinds of verbal abuse. I one’s roots for those who have forgotten. doors were always closed. I grew up with Included in this archive of sounds from thought: “they do have a story to tell.” fresh water from the well, and when there long ago in 3688 is the yelling of the “I cannot fight the change but I can was water coming from the tap, it felt very name, “Fong Fei Fei”, a reference to Co-written with writer Lim Fong Wei, document these things before they are strange,” he recalls. the famous Taiwanese songbird from saw the shadowing of 2 parking gone,” says Royston. “Right now, people the 1970s, known for her multitude of attendants to observe their day-to-day in Singapore are very desensitised, like From one generation to another, the hats. More importantly, it’s yet another encounters. That was when Royston it’s better not to feel. But when you stop reminiscences of kampong life have been name hat-clad parking attendants realised that these female street wardens feeling, that’s the moment you start passed down verbally (aside from a visit are known by. It’s also used as a were being replaced by machines and dying. That’s why I’m doing this.” to Pulau Ubin or Lorong Buangkok), so call in neighbourhoods to warn the men. “Those we spoke to had the attitude I ask him to draw the village map from unsuspecting public who are away of ‘let’s take one day at a time’. A lot of The village boy his memory. from their cars, a trait of “a distinctive things were changing, so I thought I have Singapore culture” to Royston. to archive this as soon as possible, don’t The loss of places is something Royston Under a pen dripping ink, the lines of the wait already!” feels most keenly about, in part due to a houses and trees blur into each other, but The idea to create a film around a parking consequential episode in his childhood Royston is only too happy to go into the attendant haplessly against the march This ‘don’t wait already’ phrase is details of the sketch (image below) from left to right: the communal toilet that was very scary to visit in the dark (“sometimes got pervert”); the Teochew neighbour who sold tau suan and other desserts with the use of fresh tapioca from the trees around; Royston’s family provision shop fronted by tables surrounded by old uncles drinking beer, “just chatting 32 33
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