Travelling through time in Ervanários - DIVERSE & DELICIOUS: A CULINARY ODYSSEY BATTLE OF MACAO: 400 YEARS ON - Macao Magazine
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Travelling
through time
in Ervanários
DIVERSE & DELICIOUS:
A CULINARY ODYSSEY
BATTLE OF MACAO:
400 YEARS ON
Macao MOP 30 | Hong Kong HKD 30 | Mainland China RMB 30 | International USD 4 06/2022
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2 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022
Contents
28 64 70
COVER IMAGE
At the Rua de Ervanários, only a few steps
04 Health and development top agenda
at Forum Macao
Premier Li Keqiang urged stronger cooperation between
away from Macao’s most recognisable China and the Portuguese-speaking nations, with Macao
landmark Ruins of St Paul’s, decades-old playing a critical role as a connecting platform.
businesses sell antiques next to trendy
12
new cafes. Photo by António Sanmarful
Macao chief executive stresses urgency
of economic diversification
The Macao government is supporting the unemployed
by launching new initiatives such as a website with
information on vacancies and job-application procedures.
16 Old street, same story
A new generation of entrepreneurs is breathing life into
Rua dos Ervanários, fusing past and future together like
50 70
nowhere else in the city.
Beyond the brush Remembering the 1622 Battle of Macao
28
Ink art has a millennia-long history and it still Historian Ivo Carneiro de Sousa recalls the fierce battle,
Asia’s capital of gastronomy thrives today, thanks to a new generation of artists from the forces that sparked it to the slaves who saved
Over the past two decades, Macao has become a culinary drawing on varied sources of influence. the city and the revisionism that occurred in its wake.
destination to watch thanks to high-profile restaurant
56 80
openings, a prestigious UNESCO nod and a deluge of awards.
A boost for the board SEZs in Africa, a new track for
Sino-Lusophone cooperation
38
Chess in Macao was on its last legs until the
Rediscovering Macanese flavours Covid-19 pandemic renewed interest in the sport, Portuguese-speaking countries want to replicate the
Macanese dishes have long been a staple around many particularly among local youth. Now, the Macau success of China’s Special Economic Zones, a key part
Macanese family dinner tables. And now, it’s easier than Chess Federation sees hope for the game’s future of the Asian giant’s economic boom. A new academic
ever to find these treasured dishes at restaurants, too. in the city. book published in Macao helps explain how.
44 64 88
CORRECTION: In the article titled ‘Macao’s water,
now and in the future’ published in the Macao Making her mark Personal accolades are wins for all Macao Drones take the spotlight
Magazine April 2022 issue, it said that the Marine
Jovinia António is making an impression across Macao Young designer Au Chon Hin has won awards and The Drone Gala 2022 was held in May in the Nam Van
and Water Bureau “is currently funding RMB 8
with her budding textile business, selling bold-patterned attracted clients at home and overseas, but he has lake area with the theme “Macao for All Seasons”,
billion” for the Dateng Gorge Water Reservoir in
Guangxi. The correct amount should be “RMB 800 products based on personal stories and leading workshops his sights set on providing new opportunities for showcasing elements related to local festivals, events
million”. We apologise for any inconvience caused. that teach others her unique marbling technique. Macao creators. and architecture.
5
4 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022
POLITICS
Health and development top Text Gonçalo César de Sá
P remier Li Keqiang has called for
increased links between China
promoting the mutual development
and prosperity of all countries. He
agenda at Forum Macao
Photos António Sanmarful
and the community of Portuguese- also called for strengthening unity and
speaking countries, with Macao as a cooperation, defeating the Covid-19
key player. pandemic as quickly as possible as
Li made the appeal via video link well as promoting cooperation and
Premier Li Keqiang urged stronger cooperation between China and the from Beijing during the opening economic recovery.
Portuguese-speaking nations, with Macao playing a critical role as a ceremony in Macao of an extraordinary Li underlined that the current
Premier Li Keqiang ministerial meeting in April of the international situation is turbulent
connecting platform.
Macao-based Forum for Economic and and that the Covid-19 pandemic is
Trade Cooperation between China and still dragging on around the world.
Portuguese-speaking Countries (PSCs), He also warned that uncertainty
also known as Forum Macao. and instability in the world economy
The meeting’s theme, “Cooperating have risen significantly, while the
to Fight Against the [Covid-19] safety and security of all countries
Pandemic, Collaborating for Common are interrelated.
Development”, focused on enhancing China wants to increase
cooperation between China and the cooperation with the PSCs in vaccines
PSCs in the field of healthcare, and and healthcare more generally, Li
jointly promoting post-Covid-19 said, highlighting the setting-up of
economic recovery. the China-PSCs Epidemic Prevention
Li addressed the video meeting Exchange Centre in Macao as one
with participants across four of the forum’s initiatives, to improve
continents. Brazil’s Vice President global health governance.
Antônio Hamilton Martins Mourão The centre comes under the
and the prime ministers of Cabo Verde, combined jurisdiction of China’s
Guinea-Bissau, Mozambique, Portugal, Ministry of Commerce, National Health
São Tomé and Príncipe and Timor- Commission of the PRC and Macao’s
Leste also took part. The meeting was secretariats for Economy and Finance
held at the China-Portuguese-speaking and Social Affairs and Culture, and will
Countries Commercial and Trade be led by Forum Macao and Macao’s
Service Platform Complex on the Health Bureau. The centre will provide
Macao peninsula. technical support for pandemic
Trade between China and the PSCs prevention and control as well as
has exceeded MOP 810 billion (US$100 developing training programmes.
billion) for five consecutive years and “Let’s work together to make the
reached MOP 1.62 trillion (US$200 cake of cooperation bigger so that the
billion) last year. Li said China wants fruits of development can benefit the
to improve collaboration in advancing people of all countries,” Li said.
infrastructure connectivity, industrial The premier also reaffirmed
capacity, energy conservation, and Macao’s role as a “bridge” connecting
environmental protection with the China and PSCs, adding that the
PSCs and has called for enhancing central government will support
trade and investment regulations. Macao’s consolidation as a unique
The Chinese premier pledged service platform for business
that China will contribute even more cooperation between China and
to safeguarding world peace and the PSCs.
Xinhua News Agency
6 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Politics | 7
ANTI-PANDEMIC FIGHT
Chinese Minister of Commerce,
Wang Wentao, who also spoke at
the video conference, said that since
the establishment of the Forum
Macao in 2003, the platform has
Macao will fully exploit its own
played a "core role" in promoting advantages, and work actively
economic cooperation between with Forum Macao, to improve
China and PSCs.
Wang noted that over the 19 cooperation between China and
years of the Forum’s existence, Portuguese-speaking countries.
economic cooperation has increased
enormously. The value of trade – Chief Executive Ho Iat Seng
between China and the PSCs has
increased about 20 times compared
to 2003 while the value of non-
financial direct investment has
increased more than 50-fold.
Minister Wang also highlighted
international cooperation in
fighting the pandemic. “China has
provided around 170 million doses
of the vaccine against Covid-19
to Portuguese-speaking countries
and remains available to share
technology and productive capacity circulation development strategy of
in the field of vaccines with the domestic and international markets
member countries of the Forum, so that the territory can serve as
supporting local production and its a bridge between the mainland
distribution,” he said. and the PSCs, and help build a
Wang said that the Macao community with a shared future.
platform should raise cooperation “Macao will fully exploit its own
with the PSCs to “a new level” and advantages, work actively with the
assured that Macao and Guangdong Forum, to improve cooperation
province will be supported in the between China and PSCs … The
construction of a Sino-Lusophone setting-up of the Guangdong-Macao
international trade centre in Intensive Cooperation Zone in
Hengqin island. Hengqin will bolster Macao’s role,”
the chief executive said. Chief Executive Ho Iat Seng
SINO-LUSOPHONE PLATFORM Ho and Fu Ziying, director of speaks at the opening ceremony
the Central People’s Government
During the conference, Macao Liaison Office in the Macao Special
Chief Executive Ho Iat Seng said Administrative Region, unveiled
that Macao will further improve a plaque for the new China-
its role as a platform linking China Portuguese-speaking Countries
and the PSCs and that it will speed Exchange Centre for Epidemic
up integration into China’s dual Prevention at the same ceremony.
8 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Politics | 9
OPINION
The Future of Forum Macao
A vision for the next 20 years
asked for China's support in
the “development of productive
technologies”. This was seconded by
the prime minister of Mozambique,
Adriano Maleiane, who emphasised
the need for stronger cooperation
between the countries represented
at Forum Macao.
Prime Minister Jorge Bom Jesus
of São Tomé and Príncipe asked for
financial support and the Timor-
Leste prime minister, Taur Matan
Ruak, recalled the “devastating
effects of the pandemic”, but said
he was convinced that Chinese aid
and the economic opportunities
that exist in the Guangdong-Hong
Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area can
contribute to a solution.
Lastly, Angolan Minister of
State for Economic Coordination,
Manuel Nunes Júnior noted the
importance of Chinese investment FRANCISCO JOSÉ LEANDRO
in his country and the important Associate Professor and Associate Dean of Institute for Research
political reforms underway there in Portuguese-Speaking Countries at City University of Macau
Extraordinary ministerial POST-PANDEMIC SUPPORT FOR Portuguese Prime Minister as well as the economic measures
meeting takes place at PORTUGUESE-SPEAKING COUNTRIES António Costa spoke about support aimed at reducing the nation’s The Chinese initiative to establish the Forum Macao
Forum Macao
for businesspeople from the dependence on oil revenue. has proved its effectiveness, but it has yet to realise its full
At the extraordinary ministerial countries represented at Forum Forum Macao also welcomed potential. In its nearly 20 years of existence, Forum Macao has
meeting, the PSCs asked for more Macao and explained that Portugal Equatorial Guinea as its 10th evolved steadily, widening its membership and extending into
Chinese investment to support the is a gateway to the European Union member country, the African new areas of activity, besides the core interests of economic
post-Covid-19 economic recovery as its ports are connected to global country’s membership formalised and trade cooperation.
and called for a strengthening of maritime routes and have privileged through a joint resolution. Aside Since 2003, Forum Macao has reinforced the presence
relations between the member links with Latin America and Africa. from China and Equatorial Guinea, as well as the contribution of the eight PSCs, now numbering
countries of Forum Macao. Prime Minister of Cabo Verde Forum Macao includes Angola, nine with the recent acceptance of Equatorial Guinea into
The vice president of Brazil, Ulisses Correia e Silva said that Brazil, Cabo Verde, Guinea-Bissau, membership. The aim is to strengthen trade cooperation
Hamilton Mourão, highlighted the biggest current challenge Mozambique, Portugal, São Tomé and communication between China and the PSCs and boost
the economic potential of is “to overcome the pandemic” and Príncipe, and Timor-Leste. Macao’s role as a platform for this cooperation.
Portuguese-speaking countries and that joint efforts, within the As the first online-offline event Forum Macao has carried out several organisational
which are “inserted in differentiated framework of Forum Macao, can to be organised by the Forum adjustments to increase China’s national engagement and
commercial blocks” with millions of be an opportunity to attract private Macao on such a grand scale, commitment to provide more information about the Greater
consumers and important maritime investment. the ministerial meeting brought Bay Area market in general and, more specifically, the
and mineral resources, and the need Nuno Gomes Nabiam, premier together leaders from around the Guangdong-Macao Intensive Cooperation Zone in Hengqin.
to promote trade and investment of Guinea-Bissau, invited investors world and a turnout of around 200 China has also pushed for new ideas and new
exchanges. to visit the African state and participants in Macao. cooperation areas, with the support of all PSCs.
10 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Politics | 11
THE FORUM MACAO SPATIAL MARKET REACH (1+9 STATES)
China – Belt and Road Initiative (1.4 Billion) 9 Portuguese-speaking countries (2.9 Billion)
(9 Cities + 2 SARs) GBA (≥70 million) Portugal European Union – 447 Million Since its inception, Forum Macao has become The longstanding pillar of Forum Macao is the
deeply involved in many activities such as enhanced mutual perception of cooperative advantages. This
Macao Special Administrative Region trade and investment facilitation, collaboration to takes into consideration the potential of the PSCs and
One integrated web portal
Angola advance key infrastructure projects, promote connectivity, the GBA working together, in the context of access to
One Center Mozambique African Continental Free Trade Area encourage higher levels of industrial capacity, develop all kinds of markets, including raw and manufactured
Guangdong- Tourism Cabo Verde energy security options, supported cultural exchanges, materials, finding solutions for energy security,
Macao One Platform São Tomé e Príncipe African Economic Regional and also boosted health and environmental protection infrastructure development, improving the quality of
Intensive
Goods Equatorial Guinea Communities – 1.5 Billion with all the PSCs. This approach demonstrates China’s banking and health services, facilitating technology
Cooperation
Zone in MICE Guine-Bissau desire to improve international cooperation and at the transfer, promoting culture exchanges and education,
Hengqin SME same time the potential of Forum Macao to contribute investing in human capital, and strengthening people-
One Base significantly to China’s global vision of “a community to-people bonds. Therefore, Forum Macao can no
For Exchange and Education Brazil MERCOSUR – 295 Million with a shared future”. longer focus merely on the promotion of economic
Consequently, the natural evolution of the Forum and trade cooperation.
is its transformation from an economic and trade In this vision, Forum Macao will become a
Other Chinese regions or provinces Timor Leste (ASEAN) – 661 Million cooperation body with a 10-state (9+1) framework acting truly multilateral institution, extending economic
as a quasi-multilateral institution, into a truly multilateral cooperation across the world, adopting new
association of sovereign states. management instruments, such as common decision-
This new organisation configuration will be making and common budgets, and devoting itself to
designed to elevate the level of sustainable development, smart planning for development, cultural exchanges
in an integrated (multi-actors and multi-space), and education for mutual benefit.
intertwined (different areas of cooperation), and Forum Macao should be an institution advancing
multi-layered (different levels of cooperation) manner. into a common economic space for exchange and able
Forum Macao Furthermore, Forum Macao can and should enlarge its to engage in a new world of the following 10 themes:
headquarters
geographical reach, using the PSCs to access economic
communities worldwide as the image illustrates. 1. Cooperation for development, instead of
The potential of the GBA is enormous as it is economic and trade
composed of the Hong Kong Special Administrative 2. Blue economy instead of maritime
Region, the Macao Special Administrative Region, and cooperation
nine cities in Guangdong Province in southern China. 3. Energy and food sustainability instead of oil,
This covers approximately 56,000 square kilometres, with gas and agriculture projects
a combined population of 70 million inhabitants, and a 4. Social economic sustainable investment
GDP of MOP 13.7 trillion (US$1.7 trillion). instead of foreign investment
The Macao SAR, as a World Class Tourism and 5. Spatial development initiatives associated to
Leisure Centre, and a Service Platform for Trade quality criteria instead of key infrastructures
Cooperation and as an exchange and cooperation base 6. Tandem education to develop cultural literacy
for education in the GBA, offers a remarkable support and technological skills instead of a stand
framework for Forum Macao. alone technical expertise
Training and education should be other important 7. Corporate social responsibility instead of
parts of Forum Macao’s future. Macao as a cooperation shareholders engagement
platform and as a centre of education, which allows 8. Commercial and investment amicable
for mutual recognition of academic degrees, joint disputes, instead of adjudicatory justice
professional certification as well as promoting 9. Interculturalism instead of multiculturalism
bilingualism and the promotion of cultural literacy 10. Facilitation of flows of people, goods, services
is regarded, by China and the PSCs, as one of Forum and ideas, instead of meetings, conferences,
Macao’s most promising assets. exhibitions and tourism.
13
12 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022
POLITICS
Macao chief executive stresses
urgency of economic diversification
The Macao government is supporting the unemployed by launching new initiatives such
as a website with information on vacancies and job-application procedures.
Text Gonçalo César de Sá
Photos Government
Information Bureau
M acao’s Chief Executive
Ho Iat Seng said in April
that Macao still heavily relies
millions of visitors a year, as well as
local residents, which is why local
businesses continue to suffer under
on the gaming sector and on this current pandemic.
mainland visitors which is why Ho explained that the average
Macao is suffering from a negative daily number of visitors to Macao
“synergy” from both factors amid had increased to around 30,000
the Covid-19 pandemic. earlier this year; however, at
Chief Executive Ho Iat Seng Ho noted that the Covid-19 this point, various areas in the
responds to legislators' pandemic has reduced the mainland are being hit by a surge
questions at Q&A session
number of visitors to Macao to of local Covid-19 transmissions,
in April
the level around the time when decreasing the number of
the Macao Special Administrative mainland tourists visiting the city.
Region (MSAR) was established Ho pledged that once the
in December 1999. The 2021 Covid-19 wave in the mainland
visitor numbers stood at around recedes, Macao authorities
7 million. will discuss with the central
“The tourism sector needs to government the resumption of
reposition itself and open up to organised tour groups to Macao
other source markets, it cannot which have been suspended since
depend exclusively on mainland the beginning of the Covid-19
Chinese tourists,” Ho emphasised. pandemic in early 2020.
The chief executive noted Chief Executive Ho said that
that in 2000 there were around Macao health officials have been
5,400 retail outlets, restaurants, discussing the latest Covid-19
eateries and other catering developments worldwide with
venues, employing around 22,000 mainland experts. They pointed out
people in Macao. In 2020, the that no new Covid-19 variants have
number of these venues has been detected in Western countries
risen to around 9,600, employing over recent months and as a result
nearly 74,000 people in Macao. they concluded that the Covid-19
Prior to the pandemic, these epidemic in the mainland would
retail and catering outlets served stabilise later this year.
14 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Politics | 15
GAMING OPERATORS FULFIL executive explained that the
THEIR CORPORATE SOCIAL Macao government is supporting
RESPONSIBILITIES the unemployed by launching
new initiatives such as a website
Ho Iat Seng recognised that with information on vacancies
the six gaming operators have and job-application procedures;
been shouldering their corporate which to date has included more
social responsibility by not laying than 6,000 vacancies, covering a
off their local staff and that even variety of posts. Ho encouraged
though some staff members have members of the public to consider
had to take unpaid leave or half- fresh employment paths and
paid leave amid the Covid-19 opportunities.
pandemic, none of the operators In addition, the Macao
have carried out any major lay- government plans to optimise its
offs of local staff. paid-internship programme for
Ho went on to say that the higher-education graduates, as
gaming operators are employing well as the subsidised-training
a disproportionate number of programme, allowing more
staff members in relation to Macao residents to participate in
the current visitor numbers, such programmes and increasing
but they have adhered to the the number of training courses.
basic principle of not laying
off their local staff. Still on the GOVERNMENT OFFERS
topic of gaming operators, the FINANCIAL SUPPORT
government has pressed ahead
with reducing the quota of non- Chief Executive Ho Iat Seng
resident workers in large-scale also announced a new round
gaming resorts and managing of electronic consumption In addition to the new round handouts to spend it on boosting the the Islands District Medical Complex Chief Executive
non-resident worker quotas to benefits with the aim to relieve of the electronic consumption local economy. is expected to complete basic Ho Iat Seng
improve local people’s work residents’ financial hardship and benefit scheme, Ho said, the Ho noted that all local residents’ construction this year, with interior discusses tools
and programmes to
opportunities. support local businesses. Ho government is also studying other cash handouts amount to around MOP decoration to begin by the end of the address continued
Ho stated that the latest underlined that the government measures that can support SMEs, 7 billion (US$87 million) equivalent to year. He also said that the government economic difficulties
unemployment rate among local is aware that the “prolonged” such as subsidising water and the current monthly value of the city’s will allow two additional international
residents has increased to 4.3 per Covid-19 pandemic has had electricity bills. retail sales. He added that this amount schools to be established in Macao,
cent and this was partially due various repercussions on Macao’s Ho also noted that local could help support many SMEs’ to help attract outside talent. Lastly,
to the closures of some junket economy and civil society, and residents started to receive this business operations and stabilise Ho said to protect our environment,
companies and satellite casinos understands the difficulties that year’s MOP 10,000 (US$1,235) residents’ employment. government departments would use
over the past few months. residents and small and medium- “wealth-sharing”, urging those Broaching a few other topics at only electrically-powered vehicles in
During the session, the chief sized enterprises (SMEs) face. who have received the cash the end of his speech, Ho said that the future.
17
16 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022
Text Miguel Luigi Enriquez
Photos Denzel Calangi U nder the shadow of the Ruins of
St Paul lies an unassuming street
called Rua dos Ervanários. Despite
globalisation was commonly adopted.
For hundreds of years, merchants
took advantage of this prime location,
only being a flight of steps away from their customers able to pick from
Macao’s most recognisable landmark, porcelain vases from the mainland to
it’s often overlooked by passersby. intricate ornaments from Portugal.
If you detour down this street, you Antique store owner Ian Siu Pou
Can you teach an old get a sense of being between worlds. has been in business in the area since
street new tricks? Rua Decades-old businesses sell antiques the 1970s, when he took over his
dos Ervanários is seeing
next to trendy new cafes, locals who father’s business. “At the time, Macao
a resurgence as a wave of
modern businesses move in
call the street home play mahjong with had many old houses so we would
to the historic area their neighbours while camera slinging buy old furniture from there and sell
tourists trod past, and cobblestone it at our store,” he says.
streets are juxtaposed with modern The 75-year-old can still recall
street art. Despite its small size, this a time when the area was teeming
street provides a great snapshot of both with traders who would carry around
Macao’s past and future. baskets full of goods hanging from
bamboo shoulder poles. But he says
RICH WITH HISTORY Ervanários has changed completely
over the past 50 years. Street traders
The area surrounding Rua dos now prefer to sell their goods in more
Ervanários has attracted merchants formal settings or over the internet.
and traders since the 16th century. In Ian’s clientele has also changed.
his book Macao Streets, historian César Before Portugal handed over the city’s
Nuñez wrote that the street became the administration to China, most of his
SOCIAL AFFAIRS
de facto centre for goods coming in and customers were Western, the bulk of
Old street, same story
Time stands still at Rua dos Ervanários
out of the city, which at the time was a
burgeoning Portuguese trading port.
While the street’s name is taken
from the Portuguese word for herbalist,
presumably after the traditional
them Portuguese, coming to him for
sturdy vintage furniture made with
blackwood and rosewood from India,
Vietnam and Thailand.
At the dawn of the new
medicinal herbs that were sold in millennium, however, Ian noticed
the area, its Chinese name, 關前正街 more customers from the mainland.
A new generation of entrepreneurs is breathing life into Macao’s (Gwan Chin Jing Street), comes As Beijing reforms created newfound
historic merchant’s street, fusing past and future together like from the customs services that used wealth for Chinese citizens, many
to oversee Macao’s foreign trade became interested in antique goods
nowhere else in the city.
from here, according to the Macao to display in their homes.
Government Tourism Office. “The environment [here] is really
With the customs building right changing. But I can’t say whether I
next door, traders set up on the street miss the old times or not. All I know
displaying goods from all over the is that it’s changing. You just have to
world, a global marketplace before make your living,” he says.18 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Social Affairs | 19
NEW NEIGHBOURS (Opposite page) Artist Fortes About a year later, Wallace Chan handmade goods on the streets,
Pakeong Sequeira’s fond moved in across the street. In the harking back to the street’s history
Aside from the existing memories of the street as a building that used to house Macao’s as a centre for traders.
kid made starting his business
antique stores and incense shops, here a no-brainer. “People
customs services, he opened Ho Ho More recently, Ervanários
Rua dos Ervanários remained [here] would stop you and chat Market, a store that sells creative business owners have capitalised
relatively under the radar until with you for half an hour even goods from places like Taiwan and on the city’s cafe craze. There are
about five years ago, when real if you don’t know each other” Japan. Selling imported items in the nearly a dozen cafes in the area. If
estate investors set eyes on the same place where all imported and you are nearby and need a pick-
Taiwan-raised Wallace Chan
neighbourhood. hopes his store Ho Ho Market
exported items once passed through me-up, you’ll have an abundance
When musician and artist can inspire locals to create “felt like fate”, he says. of options, from late hangout Meta
Fortes Pakeong Sequeira was products that embody Macao’s From then on, Rua dos Ervanários Coffee to pet-friendly Woofpetsion.
shown available spaces in the rich history and traditions developed a reputation as a hub for Chan muses that Ervanários
neighbourhood, he said it was creative endeavours. Today, it’s home is beginning to be colloquially
like a homecoming. “I have very to everything from Portuguese eatery referred to as “cafe street”.
good memories of this street as a Food Truck Company, whose claim Sequeira adds that the
child. I remember walking through to fame is being home to Macao’s naysayers who warned him just five
here with my parents. It has a very best Portuguese beef steak sandwich, years ago have changed their tune,
communal feel. People would stop to crystal healing shop Gems too. “Business has changed and we
you and chat with you for half an Awakening. have a good connection with our
hour even if you don’t know each The street also hosts a bi-weekly neighbours and the vibe is different
other,” he says. crafts bazaar letting locals sell their from before.”
Longtime local shop owners
discouraged him from investing
in a space on Rua dos Ervanários,
however. They told him their own
businesses weren’t doing well, but
Sequeira decided it was worth the
risk and leased a building that used
to be a blacksmith’s workshop.
In 2017, he opened A Porta Da
Arte, which means ‘The Door of
Art’ in Portuguese, a cafe and retail
space showcasing locally made
goods and vintage clothes. He
named items on the cafe’s menu
after metalworks and retained
some of the building’s original
brickwork to speak to its history.20 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Social Affairs | 21
Pedro Esteves’ Food Truck WEATHERING THE STORM Kong soon. His restaurant used to Additionally, more than a dozen
Company is widely believed attract many customers from the stores, including Ho Ho Market, are
to be home to the city’s best
The street’s revitalisation has not neighbouring city and he finds it running exclusive promotions, and
prego, a Portuguese beef steak
sandwich, but a lack of tourists
been immune to the pandemic. Being difficult to turn a profit from local customers can take part in a virtual
is putting his business at risk so close to the Ruins of St Paul used to patrons alone. lucky draw offering prizes such as
guarantee steady footfall for businesses In an attempt to drive more iPhones, iPads and hotel stays.
(Opposite page) Ian Siu Pou on Ervanários. But border closures people to Rua dos Ervanários, local Organisers say they hope the
has been doing business in
have significantly cut off tourism, the associations, including the Industry activities can help shops boost
Ervanários since he took over
his father’s antique store back
city’s main source of livelihood, and and Commerce Federation of Macau business by as much as 40 per cent. It
in the 1970s. “The environment pushed most business owners to the Central and Southern Districts is already paying dividends for some.
[here] is really changing. But brink of closure. and the Macau Historical Districts “This activity has helped my
I can’t say whether I miss the Pedro Esteves was among the first Developments Promotion Association, business,” says Chan. “Just the other
old times or not. All I know
business owners to move into the area have organised an open-air fair that day a couple spent around MOP 400
is that it’s changing. You just
have to make your living”
when he opened Food Truck Company will be hosted on the street until 24 here and I gave them some lucky
in 2017. He has been in the restaurant June. In addition to promotional draw coupons and they won a hotel
business for over 16 years, but he campaign drives on social media, reservation at Lisboeta. They were
says Covid-19 has been his toughest organisers have also incorporated really happy.”
adversary yet. augmented reality (AR) attractions to
Esteves hopes that Macao encourage locals and visitors to explore PAST AND PRESENT COLLIDE
can reopen to visitors from Hong the street and learn about its history.
Sequeira admits the influx of new
businesses in Rua dos Ervanários
could eventually transform the street’s
original character. But the 44-year-
old thinks change is inevitable and
should be embraced. “This is a new
generation and people are changing
and so is the culture. All I can do is
what I’m good at and what I love.”
From his humble store at the
end of the street, Ian watches as
buildings he’s known most of his life
get fresh coats of paint and house new
merchants. He still comes to the store
everyday – “No days off,” he declares
– sitting among the furniture and
antiques that have provided him with
a living for so long. He says trendy
new stores and cafes don’t impact
his business as they don’t cater to
his customers.
Next door, in another storefront
Ian acquired in the ’80s, his son runs
Scan the QR
a small supermarket, continuing the
code below
family’s half-a-century presence in to watch the
Rua dos Ervanários and providing video:
proof that while the street continues
to evolve, some things will remain
the same.22 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Social Affairs | 23
1
A Porta da Arte
What is it? A four-storey building building’s history. On the street level PRO TIP
that houses a cafe, leather goods is a cafe which stocks Macao-brewed
If you happen to
store and its owner’s personal coffee beans, upstairs a local leather run into Sequeira,
workshop. worker’s products are displayed for ask him to let you
sale, on the third floor is a vintage up the building’s
Store story: A Porta da Arte was shop, and Sequeira’s office and rooftop where you
among the first wave of new shops studio are perched on the top floor. can enjoy your brew
that moved into the neighbourhood The sofas peppered across the store with a bird’s-eye
back in 2017. The building it’s in are perfect for lounging, making view of Ervanários.
used to be a blacksmith’s workshop. this space feel more cosy than
“When I first came here, it was like commercial. “I’m not a natural born
an abandoned space. It was so businessman. I’m an artist. I paint, I
messy but I loved it!” says owner sing and I compose. I just wanted a
Fortes Pakeong Sequeira. The local space to do my work and also gather
artist spruced up the spot but kept some of my friends to sell their
certain elements intact, including handicrafts and artwork.” Mission
an exposed brick wall, to honour the accomplished.
The Ervanários area (which
includes its namesake street and
nearby Rua da Tercena and Rua
de Nossa Senhora do Amparo) is
home to an abundance of shops
from some of Macao’s most
creative minds. Some merchants
have also been doing business
here for several decades, making
this an exciting way to experience
the Macao of past and present.
Keep an eye out for the craft
market fair, held every other
weekend, when local vendors
line the street with pop-up stalls
and sell their handmade goods.
Don’t miss the Ervanários Fair,
held until 24 June, either. Use your
phone’s camera to experience
Ervanários through AR and
unlock exclusive deals – you might
even get lucky and win a prize.
To get you started on your
adventure, here are five of our
favourite spots to hang out and
shop in Ervanários, from the
new and exciting to the old and
historic. Now get exploring!24 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Social Affairs | 25
2
Ho Ho Market
What is it? As its name suggests, a
market for all things good and useful.
You’ll find whimsical (yet functional)
objects, products from your childhood
and even exotic succulents.
Store story: Macao-born, Taiwan-raised
Wallace Chan values a good story. He set
up Ho Ho Market in 2018 (that’s 好好,
ho ho, as in ‘good good’ in Cantonese)
after noticing a lack of creative goods
in Macao that incorporated the city’s
rich traditions. “At the time, most of the
cultural products here lacked meaning.
I wanted to see more goods with a story
and items that embody local traditions
so I decided to import them from
abroad to inspire locals.” Chan says the
products need to have visual appeal
to get people’s attention but they also
have to be useful. As a result, Ho Ho
Market is a hodgepodge of all kinds of
items from around the world, ranging
from utilitarian Japanese officeware to
quirky Taiwanese homeware. There are
products that evoke nostalgia, like a
label maker from Penco, and stuff you BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE
never thought you needed, like a candle
that replicates the smell of a campfire.
True to its mission statement, the store
The second floor is home to a
personal interest of Chan’s: rare
succulents. Neatly lined up under
3
Gems Awakening
also stocks locally designed goods
bright lamps, some of these botanical
from streetwear to egg tart-shaped and wonders look so obscure, they seem
-scented candles. If you’re after a unique as if they’re from another planet. What is it? Holistic wellness store that energy, and that can help you in different
gift for someone, Ho Ho Market is sure Chan painstakingly imports them specialises in crystal healing. areas of your life,” says Arthur. They source
to have something for you. from arid places in Africa and the their stones from different suppliers
Americas. His pride and joy: the many Store story: Gems Awakening is Macao’s around the world, including those in the
agave plants he has on hand, though first crystal healing shop. Owned and US, Brazil and Madagascar. Enter the
he doesn’t plan on going into the operated by married couple Carol and store, and you’ll be greeted by the smell
tequila business anytime soon. Arthur Lim, the shop has been in business of incense and the occasional hum of a
since 2020, preaching the benefits of the singing bowl. Whether you buy into the
alternative wellness practice. “With this purported healing properties of crystals or
shop we want to educate people about not, this shop is well worth a visit for the
the thousands upon thousands of stones sensory experience alone. Who knows?
out there. Different stones have different You might just learn something new!26 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Social Affairs | 27
4
Veng Heng Cheong
What is it? Family business selling His parents taught him how to DID YOU KNOW?
joss sticks that has served Macao make incense when he was in
Joss stick manufacturing
worshippers for decades. middle school. His mother would was once one of Macao’s
take him to the factory to learn biggest industries, along
Store story: Conveniently located the trade, and when he was 17, he with matchstick and
near several temples, the Ervanários apprenticed with a master incense firecracker production. At
area is a prime spot for selling goods maker. Now 70, Tam continues one point, there were more
for worshipping. The Tam family to run the family business, one of than 40 incense factories in
saw this as a business opportunity
back in 1968 when they opened their
incense store, Veng Heng Cheong.
the last joss stick stores in Macao,
but he’s unsure how much longer
the tradition can last. “If I am no
the city but the opening of
the mainland market in the
’80s ramped up competition
and the local industry was
5
Son Kei
Tam Kin Hong says the store was longer in good health, I will have
not able to keep up.
named after his father, Tam Veng. to stop doing this.”
What is it? Antique store stocking
rosewood furniture and ceramic
kitchenware.
Store story: From a young age, Ian
Siu Pou knew he wasn’t cut out for
school, so he started trailing his
father, who ran an antique store.
When he was only seven years old,
he stopped going to school. He and
his father would go to old houses
and buy furniture there to sell in
their store. Ian eventually took over
the business in the early 1970s. He
recalls mainly catering to a Western
clientele in the 1980s and 1990s,
but since the new millennium, he
has started seeing more customers
from the mainland. The furniture he
sells is made from sturdy blackwood
and rosewood sourced from the
mainland and South Asia. He isn’t
sure how old some of the pieces
are but says people value them for
their quality and design. Now in
his 70s, Ian continues to run the
store. Despite the slowdown in
business these past two years, he’s
not worried, as his son runs a small
grocery in the property he acquired
next door.29
28 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022
Text Inara Sim
W hen it comes to food,
Macao brings a lot to the
table: regional Chinese specialties,
year 2000, Macao had a total of
9,000 hotel rooms; today we
have over 44,000.”
traditional Portuguese fare, seasonal So how did this once quiet,
Italian, authentic Japanese kaiseki humble territory transform into
meals and transcendent French what Forbes Travel Guide has
Three-Michelin-starred cuisine. Whether you’re looking for a described as the “world capital of
Robuchon au Dôme is quick bite at a 24-hour noodle bar or Five-Star dining”? It comes down to
nestled in the dome a luxurious 12-course tasting menu, a mix of rapid and robust tourism
crowning the Grand
there’s something for everyone. development, the emergence
Lisboa Hotel, which
opened in 2007 But Macao hasn’t always been of outposts by internationally
a dining mecca. Before the days acclaimed chefs, and evolving
of integrated resorts and booming clientele who grow hungrier for
tourism, the sleepy Portuguese diverse, sophisticated flavours with
territory was better known for its each passing year.
quaint antique shops, charming
Portuguese buildings and local A SERIES OF CULINARY CATALYSTS
casino scene. In the 1980s, the
concept of fine-dining was limited to Macao’s transformation began
the ‘Excelsior’ (now Artyzen Grand in 2002 when the 40-year gaming
Lapa) and Hyatt Regency (now monopoly held by Hong Kong
Regency Art Hotel). When the late casino mogul Stanley Ho came to an
Joël Robuchon was invited to bring end, and the city opened its doors
his award-winning French cuisine to international companies such as
to the city at the turn of the century, Las Vegas Sands and Wynn Resorts.
the chef later told the South China Ho set the tone for a new era of
Morning Post that he couldn’t even Las Vegas-style haute gastronomy,
find Macao on a map. having brought in “Chef of the
Of course, the past is the past. Century” Robuchon a year earlier to
Now, any ambitious chef worth launch Robuchon a Galera at Casino
their salt knows exactly where to Lisboa (which later relocated to the
find Macao. The city has evolved at a Grand Lisboa Hotel and became
rapid clip in just two decades, Robuchon au Dôme).
gastronomy
FOOD AND DRINK and so has its dining scene. Macao “One of the areas which the
was named a UNESCO Creative City hotels put a lot of effort into was
Asia’s capital of of Gastronomy in 2017, and many
of the city’s restaurants feature year
after year in the MICHELIN Guide,
getting more restaurants of the
highest standards to come into
Macao. Every one tried to bring
Forbes Travel Guide, Asia’s 50 Best signature restaurants, whether on
Restaurants and the Dianping Black a collaborative basis or with their
Pearl Restaurant Guide. own chefs, which uplifted the local
Over the past two decades, Macao has become a culinary destination to watch thanks to “Over the last 20 years, our fine-dining scene. F&B [food and
high-profile restaurant openings, a prestigious UNESCO nod and a deluge of awards. tourism numbers have just beverage] has always been one of
Photo courtesy of Grand Lisboa Hotel
continued to grow,” says Maria the strong points of our tourism
Helena de Senna Fernandes, offerings and one of reasons why
director of Macao Government a lot of people come to Macao,”
Tourism Office (MGTO). “In the explains Senna Fernandes.30 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Food and Drink | 31
STAR-STUDDED CITY
The seismic shifts in Macao’s
dining scene didn’t end there.
Senna Fernandes says the
international market is very
important when it comes to fine
dining. To be recognised as a
fine-dining destination, you need
global recognition – from facilities
to standards – and international
benchmarks, such as the MICHELIN
Guide or Forbes Travel Guide, are
essential to setting those standards.
When MICHELIN Guide
Hong Kong Macau launched its
debut edition in 2009, the ensuing
accolades thrust Macao firmly into
the culinary spotlight. That first year,
six restaurants in Macao earned
a Michelin star – a number that
Oswald Vas
continues to rise year after year.
Today, the city counts more than 20
Michelin-selected restaurants. Among
them, Robuchon au Dôme, The 8
Restaurant and Jade Dragon hold
three Michelin stars.
Maria Helena de In 2004, the first integrated resort experience. Restaurants with a vast wine Another influential awards list,
Senna Fernandes opened in Macao. Over the next few years, list are sure to win over luxury enthusiasts Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, launched
at the Macao
big-name resorts opened one after the and connoisseurs. in 2013 with a mission to celebrate
Institute for Tourism
Studies prior to an
next and with each opening, Macao’s “Guests at that time were a real mixed gastronomy across the region. Every
interview with culinary bar inched higher and higher. bag,” says Mathieu Gaignon, beverage year, the list is selected by a group
The Macao News The next major catalyst came in August director at The Seasons (Macau University of over 300 restaurant experts called
on the UNESCO 2008, when Macao scrapped its 15 per of Science and Technology Training the Asia’s 50 Best Academy. Macao
Sustainable
cent wine tax in a bid to become a more Restaurant) and former head sommelier restaurants have regularly made
Gastronomy Day
in June 2021
dominant and sophisticated culinary hub. at Robuchon au Dôme who was part of the appearances, with Robuchon au
Macao began to establish itself restaurant’s opening team in 2011. Dôme taking the 37th spot on the
(Opposite page) Le as a five-star dining destination, “Many VIPs would purchase the inaugural list in 2013. In 2022, Wing
Caviar dish served at catering to those looking to spend their most expensive bottles of wine. Then Lei Palace ranked 47th and has
Robuchon au Dôme
hard earned – and won – money on we had other guests who were more been on the list for four consecutive
Photo courtesy of Grand Lisboa Hotel
something truly special, be that premium knowledgeable about wine, and others years. Macao has hosted the awards
ingredients, artfully plated dishes or a that showed a real interest in tasting new ceremony three times so far, including
rare vintage of Bordeaux. To many, wine wines and learning more about what we the online 2022 Awards Ceremony,
is an inseparable part of a fine-dining had to offer.” which took place on 29 March.32 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Food and Drink | 33
(Inset) Mathieu Gaignon, In 2014, Forbes Travel Guide cut, of which 20 received Five-Stars. Braised lobster, chicken,
beverage director at The (formerly the Mobil Travel Guide) – And perhaps even more impressive ginger and spring onion
Seasons (Macau University in a claypot at Altira
the oldest travel guide in the US and are the restaurants’ consistent
of Science and Technology Macau's Ying restaurant
Training Restaurant) and
the only independent global rating commitment to quality: Four of the
former head sommelier at agency for luxury hospitality – further restaurants that received Five-Stars (Inset) Amanda Frasier,
Robuchon au Dôme burnished the city’s image. That first in 2014 – Aurora, Golden Flower, executive vice-president
year, Forbes Travel Guide showered Wing Lei and Jade Dragon – have of Standards & Ratings
A trio of bites — a steamed for Forbes Travel Guide
Macao with a total of 14 awarded maintained that status ever since.
scallop dumpling topped
with carrot millet and morel
restaurants: five Five-Stars and nine
mushroom, a jade dragon Four-Stars. REACHING FULL BOIL
dumpling, and a baked “Precision in service sets Macao
crabmeat puff — delights apart,” says Amanda Frasier, executive In 2017, Macao became one of
diners at three-Michelin-
vice-president of Standards & Ratings three cities in China to be listed
starred Jade Dragon at the
City of Dreams
for Forbes Travel Guide, when asked as a UNESCO Creative City of
what prompted the guide to venture Gastronomy. Recognised for its
into Macao. “When dining at the Five- 400-year-old legacy of Macanese
Star restaurants in Macao, you can cuisine and its emerging status as
expect everything from the a leading culinary destination in
plating to the service ware Asia, the accolade, says Senna
Photo courtesy of Melco Resorts
arrangement to be executed Fernandes, is about more than just
with the utmost attention delicious meals.
to detail.” “It’s about our history and how it
As the city’s dining relates to food,” she says. “We are a
scene expanded, so city of gastronomy not just because
too has its collection of we have good restaurants, but
star-rated restaurants. In because we have other things that
2022, 21 restaurants made can help the city become sustainable
the Forbes Travel Guide through food or gastronomy.”
The UNESCO honour fuelled even more Studio City Grand Ballroom, seven chefs
momentum behind Macao’s thriving dining from starred restaurants in the 2016 Hong
scene. “It certainly helped in providing Kong Macao guidebook presented an
awareness of Macao as a top dining city,” says extravagant six-course meal for 700 guests,
Alex Gaspar, executive chef at The Londoner complemented by top-rated wine selections
Macao. “But besides that, it also highlighted by RPWA.
the local Macanese cuisine, which is in the When Macao became a Gastronomy
spotlight much more now. It’s great to see – it’s member of the UNESCO Creative Cities
a fantastic cuisine, and it should be promoted.” Network, the government embarked on a
The new status raised the city’s gastronomic four-year action plan that kicked off with
profile and a series of international events the 2018 Macao Year of Gastronomy. In
soon followed, including Michelin-branded addition to celebrating the city’s culinary
dinners in November of 2017. The MICHELIN legacy, the initiative also highlighted
Guide partnered with global wine publisher international collaborations, walking tours,
Robert Parker Wine Advocate (RPWA) to host educational opportunities, and support for
Photo courtesy of Melco Resorts
a dining series in Hong Kong and Macao, food-centric events like the Macau Food
building up to the Michelin and RPWA Gala Festival, the Macao Gastronomy Carnival
Dinner. For the gala, which took place at the and cooking competitions.34 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Food and Drink | 35
Michelin
(Opposite page) Alex Gaspar,
executive chef at The Londoner If the 2022 MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong
Macao, has seen the industry Macau is any indication, Macao is fast
Photo courtesy of Sands China Ltd
grow from strength to strength
over the past years
by the Numbers becoming a powerhouse food city.
Helmed by celebrity master 51 selected restaurants:
chef Zhou Xiaoyan, Huaiyang
Garden at The Londoner Macao
serves stewed meatballs with
3 Three-Star
restaurants 5 Two-Star
restaurants 7 One-Star
restaurants 7 Bib Gourmand
restaurants
crab meat and crab roe
8 Street Food
establishments 1 MICHELIN Green
Star restaurant 20 MICHELIN Selected
restaurants
By 2018 Macao had become Frasier. “But the destination now lifetime” destinations. In 2022,
a magnet for some of the world’s has some of the most over-the-top the guide included 11 Macao
greatest chefs. Big names like restaurant designs in the world, restaurants, with Jade Dragon and
Umberto Bombana and Pierre such as Yí at Morpheus, designed Robuchon au Dôme earning three
Hermé had set up outposts in 2015, by Zaha Hadid, and newcomer diamonds.
while French great Alain Ducasse Palace Garden with an immersive “We have a close relationship
followed suit at Morpheus in 2018. art experience by Yang Yong Liang.” with Asia’s 50 Best and usually the
The city also welcomed Mauro That same year, the Black Pearl hoteliers [and integrated resorts]
Colagreco of Grill 58; Mitsuharu Restaurant Guide (which aims to bring in these sorts of brands
Tsumura, known for his Nikkei promote Chinese culinary culture and the MGTO works with them
(Japanese-Peruvian) menu at Aji; and perspectives) launched its first as a supporting entity. Through
Henrique Sá Pessoa of Portuguese issue and held a press conference these [events] and different kinds
Photo courtesy of Sands China Ltd
restaurant Chiado; André Chiang of to announce the winners. Of of cuisines, Macao’s profile as a
Sichuan Moon; and Gordon Ramsay, 330 listed, 13 were from Macao. centre of tourism and leisure will
although Gordon Ramsay’s Pub & Two of those – Jade Dragon and continue to grow. The branding
Grill has yet to open. The 8 Restaurant – achieved the of Macao as a city of gastronomy
“The top Macao restaurants have highest three-diamond rating, is very important to sustain,” says
always had impeccable style,” says regarded as “must visit once in a Senna Fernandes.Photo courtesy of Sands China Ltd
36 | Macao Magazine 70 June 2022 Food and Drink | 37
Macao restaurants of the future
will all have their own unique
selling points. And I’d love to see
a Macanese star-rated chef. Now
that would be something special.
– Maria Helena de Senna Fernandes
DIVERSE AND DELICIOUS Italian, Thai, Portuguese,
Shanghainese, Nikkei and elevated
Since Macao is a relatively small Macanese. “It was a real turning
city with just 650,000 people across point when resorts realised that
33 square kilometres, the explosion fine-dining restaurants could
of restaurants could have led to an focus on other cuisines besides the
oversaturated market. But Macao typical French or Cantonese,” says
avoided such a dilemma with Gaspar. “We have some wonderful
diversification, says Gaspar. restaurants now, showcasing
“It became very important, not Sichuan cuisine, Huaiyang
only for diversification, but also to cuisine, and a Thai restaurant in
differentiate between the resorts, to development. These kinds of things
give each one their own identity and were hard to imagine back when I
point of difference,” he says. “Our first arrived.”
senior vice president of F&B Tom Despite suffering setbacks
Connolly creates a wonderful theme during the Covid-19 pandemic,
and story for each new restaurant. the future of Macao’s dining
I then work within those frames scene is bright. “Post-pandemic
and try to bring it to life in terms of it will continue to grow and
kitchen design, finding the team, become even more important
and creating those key touch points in terms of promoting tourism,”
that make a restaurant very special.” continues Gaspar. “Sustainability
The city’s dining scene has is also something that everyone
evolved alongside guests and is talking about – I’m excited to
visitors, he adds. Gaspar, who came see how it keeps growing and
to Macao in 2007, says his guests gets incorporated into all facets
have grown more “discerning” and of restaurants from design to
are “looking for new experiences.” operations.”
Gaignon of The Seasons agrees. Senna Fernandes echoes this
“The younger generation wants to optimism, though she believes the
learn more,” he says. “The mentality boom is likely in the past. “There will
has changed – they have been be continuous development, just
travelling and been exposed to not at the same speed as before,”
other cultures, and they are a lot she says. “Macao restaurants of the
Braised streaky pork with
more curious.” future will all have their own unique
fish maw and preserved
cabbage at The Venetian
That curiosity has paved the way selling points. And I’d love to see a
Macao’s recently opened for a wider range of restaurants to Macanese star-rated chef. Now that
Pin Yue Xuan thrive, from Japanese to Sichuanese, would be something special.”You can also read
