Travel Guide Milan Fashion, football and finance
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Travel Guide
Milan
Fashion, football and finance
02 Quick view 07 Shopping in Milan 13 24 hours in ...
02 Italy 08 Restaurants 16 The great journey
04 Travel etiquette 08 Nightlife 19 Snapshot
04 Health 09 Calendar of events
05 Phone calls & Internet 10 Hotels
05 Getting around Milan 11 Crew Tip
05 Top 10 sights 11 Best of ...
© iStock/Thinkstock
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Quick view
Milan: Fashion, football and finance
International style capital, corporate hub, gourmet magnet and cultural mecca –
Milan is a city with many faces. Its importance to the global fashion industry has
given this chic Italian metropolis a reputation for trendiness, but style luddites will
find plenty to love beyond the constellation of big-name designer boutiques.
In the city centre, Gothic churches, palaces and art museums rub shoulders with
Michelin-starred restaurants and molecular cocktail bars. Spend the morning
admiring Old Masters, visit an international trade exhibition in the afternoon, then
book a seat at the opera or relax in a rustic trattoria with a smooth Negroni.
Italy
General Information
Country overview
Italy is an extremely popular tourist destination. Its stunning landscapes,
fascinating cities and unique cultural heritage are internationally renowned. But it
would be impossible to explore the entire country on a single trip. It’s better to
concentrate on a few highlights and enjoy the hospitality, style and spirit of the
region you choose to visit.
Italy’s diversity is a big part of what makes it attractive to visitors. Loud, lively
Naples; the gently rolling hills of Tuscany; the Renaissance treasures of Florence
– the country has an irresistible allure. And let’s not forget Italian cuisine!
Geography
Italy is divided into the Italian Alps, the northern Italian lowlands, the actual
Apennine Peninsula, and numerous islands. The most famous islands include
Sicily, Sardinia, Elba, Ischia and Capri. The Alps are located in northern Italy and
form a natural border with France, Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia. The country
borders the Mediterranean Sea to the south, southwest, and southeast. The
Apennines, with their tallest peak of 2,910 meters, stretch across the entire
peninsula.
Northern Italy is home to the Alps, the fertile, densely populated Po Valley, and the
Ligurian-Etruscan region of the Apennines. The Piedmont and Aosta Valley
regions include some of Europe’s tallest mountains and most beautiful skiing
areas. Numerous rivers have their source here; they flow through the Po Valley
and the Italian lake district. Lake Maggiore, Lake Como, and Lake Garda are
located here. The Po, Italy’s largest river, flows into the Adriatic Sea in the east.
Central Italy is actually located in the north of the Italian peninsula. Tuscany boasts
diverse and beautiful landscapes. Mountains, meadows, and hills await visitors to
this region, as do sandy beaches and numerous islands.
The region of Marche, between the Apennines and the Adriatic Sea, is a
mountainous area full of rivers and small, fertile plains. The mountainous regioni
(administrative districts) of Abruzzo border Marche to the north. Molise, located
south of Abruzzo, borders Puglia to the south. Lazio and Campania are situated on
the Tyrrhenian Sea and comprise the western border. Umbria, the “green heart of
Italy,” is full of hills and expansive plains.
Southern Italy extends from Baia Domizia to the Gulf of Naples. Campania is hilly,
with flat coastal regions. The southern Italian Apennines are lower than the
northern mountains, and the Appennino Neapolitano gently merges into the softly
rolling hills surrounding Sorrento. The islands of Capri, Ischia, and Procida in the
Tyrrhenian Sea also belong to Campania. In Puglia, volcanic hills and secluded
moors characterize the landscape. And there are still active volcanoes in southern
Italy: Mount Vesuvius to the east of Naples is one of the largest volcanoes in
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Europe. Calabria, the “toe” of Italy’s “boot,” is sparsely populated and heavily
forested.
General knowledge
Key facts
Area: 301340 sq km (116348 sq miles).
Population: 60.5 million (2015).
Population density: 204.0 per sq km.
Capital: Rome.
Language
The state language is Italian. South Tyrol is officially a bilingual province, where
German is the language mainly spoken. In Trentino, Ladin is taught in some
schools.
Currency
Euro (EUR; symbol €) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of €500, 200, 100,
50, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of €2 and 1, and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and
1 cents.
Electricity
230 volts AC, 50Hz. Plugs are of the two round-pin type.
Public holidays
In addition to public holidays, local feast days are held in honour of town patron
saints, generally without closure of shops and offices.
The public holidays for the period January 2020 to December 2021 are listed
below.
2020
Capodanno (New Year’s Day): 1 January 2020
Epifania (Epiphany): 6 January 2020
Pasqua (Easter Sunday): 12 April 2020
Lunedì dell’Angelo (Easter Monday): 13 April 2020
Festa della Liberazione (Liberation Day): 25 April 2020
Festa del Lavoro (Labour Day): 1 May 2020
Festa della Repubblica (Republic Day): 2 June 2020
Assunzione di Maria Vergine (Assumption): 15 August 2020
Tutti i santi (All Saints’ Day): 1 November 2020
Immacolata Concezione (Immaculate Conception): 8 December 2020
Natale (Christmas Day): 25 December 2020
Santo Stefano (St. Stephen’s Day): 26 December 2020
2021
Capodanno (New Year’s Day): 1 January 2021
Epifania (Epiphany): 6 January 2021
Pasqua (Easter Sunday): 4 April 2021
Lunedì dell’Angelo (Easter Monday): 5 April 2021
Festa della Liberazione (Liberation Day): 25 April 2021
Festa del Lavoro (Labour Day): 1 May 2021
Festa della Repubblica (Republic Day): 2 June 2021
Assunzione di Maria Vergine (Assumption): 15 August 2021
Tutti i santi (All Saints’ Day): 1 November 2021
Immacolata Concezione (Immaculate Conception): 8 December 2021
Natale (Christmas Day): 25 December 2021
Santo Stefano (St. Stephen’s Day): 26 December 2021
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All information subject to change.
Travel etiquette
How to fit in
Social conventions
The Roman Catholic church still plays an important role in Italy and has a strong
influence on the country’s social structures. Family ties tend to be much stronger
here than in many other European countries.
Casual clothing is common, but beachwear belongs on the beach. Appropriate
clothing is expected when entering a church. Written invitations generally indicate
whether a suit or a tuxedo/evening gown is required.
Smoking is prohibited in all public buildings and on public transportation in Italy, as
well as in movie theaters, restaurants and bars. Bars and restaurants are permitted
to set up smoking areas, however.
Tipping is not common in restaurants. Service charges, VAT and tourist tax are
included in hotel bills. However, a tip of around €5 per week for chambermaids is
customary. Restaurant bills generally include a standard charge for the tableware
and bread (pane e coperto). Particularly satisfied customers are welcome to leave
an additional tip on the table. Tipping is not expected in taxis, either.
Formal wear is usually indicated on invitations. Smoking is prohibited in public
buildings, transport and cinemas. When visiting an Italian home for dinner, bring a
small gift of sweets or chocolate, and dress well. Let your host lead when sitting
and starting the meal. Take a small portion of what’s on offer as you will surely be
cajoled into having another helping. If you do not want more wine, leave your glass
full so it cannot be refilled.
Health
Health
Main emergency number: 112
Food & Drink
Tap water is generally safe to drink. Bottled water is available. The inscription
'Acqua Non Potabile' means water is not drinkable. Milk is generally pasteurised
and dairy products are safe for consumption. Past outbreaks of brucellosis in
southern regions means unpasteurised buffalo mozzarella is best avoided. Local
meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are considered safe to eat.
Other Risks
The World Health Organisation (WHO) also recommends vaccinations for
measles, mumps, rubella, polio and hepatitis B.
Contractual physician of Lufthansa
Dr. Fasulo, Norberto
Via S. Francesco Di Assisi 10
20122 Milano
Italy
Tel. + Fax +39-02-5830-0825
Please note that Lufthansa accepts no responsibility for the treatment nor will it
bear the cost of any treatment.
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Phone calls & Internet
Telephone & Internet
Telephone
Country code: +39
Mobile telephony and Internet
Since June 2017, EU citizens traveling within the EU, and also in Iceland, Norway
and Liechtenstein have been able to use their cell phones and surf the Net without
incurring any extra charges: In other words, customers pay the same price for
phone calls, text messages and data volume as they do at home. Restrictions do
apply to the constant use of SIM cards abroad, however, and caps may be set on
data packages. For full details, contact your mobile telephony provider in your
country. Travelers using a SIM card from a non-EU state do not benefit from the
new arrangement.
Free Internet access via Wi-Fi is possible in many busy tourist spots. When using
public Wi-Fi networks, it is a wise precaution to ensure encryption of all
passwords, credit card details and banking TANs entered. Use of a VPN app or
security software to check the safety of a hotspot is recommended.
Getting around Milan
Getting around
Public transport
A slick and extensive public transport system operated under the aegis of Azienda
Trasporti Milanesi (tel: 02 4803 8345; www.atm.it) makes it easy to get from A to B.
The integrated ticketing system covers the metro, bus, trolleybus and tram, with
tickets available from metro stations, bus stops, cafés and newsagents. Passes
can be purchased at ATM rail offices and are valid for one or two days.
Taxis
Milanese taxis are famously difficult to hail, so it’s best to book over the phone with
a reputable company such as Radiotaxi (tel: 02 6969) or Autoradio (tel: 02 8585).
Tipping isn’t usually necessary.
Top 10 sights
Top 10 sights in Milan
Pinacoteca di Brera
Home to works by Raphael, Caravaggio and Mantegna, this is one of the most
impressive collections of artistic masterpieces in Italy.
Via Brera 28 Opening times:
20121 Mailand Tues, Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun 0830-1915
Italien Fri 0830-2115
Tel.: 02 7226 3264 Mon closed
brera-beniculturali.it
Duomo di Milano
It took an incredible 500 years to construct Milan’s Duomo – the world’s largest
Gothic cathedral and undoubtedly the most spectacular building in the city. Visitors
can see the roof, with its 3,500 statues and 135 spires, as well as explore a
network of underground chambers.
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Piazza del Duomo 16 Opening times:
20122 Mailand Daily 0700-1840
Italien
Tel.: 02 7202 3375 www.duomomilano.it
Teatro alla Scala
This famous opera house is at the heart of Milan’s cultural scene. Nab an
affordable seat at one of the world-class performances here by visiting the box
office before noon on the day of a performance and requesting a gallery ticket.
Via Filodrammatici 2 Opening times:
20121 Mailand Various
Italien
Tel.: 02 88791 www.teatroallascala.org
Castello Sforzesco
Built in the 15th century for the Sforza-Visconti ruling families of Milan, this regal
red-brick castle today houses three municipal museums. Make a beeline for the
Museum of Historic Art, where you’ll find Michelangelo’s unfinished Pietà
Rondanina.
Piazza Castello Opening times:
20121 Mailand Daily 0700-1900 (summer)
Italien 0700-1800 (winter)
Tel.: 02 8846 3700
www.milanocastello.it
Santa Maria delle Grazie
This UNESCO World Heritage-listed church is most famous for housing Leonardo
da Vinci’s epic masterpiece The Last Supper.
Via Giuseppe Antonio Sassi 3 Opening times:
20123 Mailand Tue-Sun 0815-1900
Italien
Tel.: 02 4676 1125 www.cenacolovinciano.org
San Siro Stadium
Visit during the Italian Premier League season for the chance to see home teams
AC Milan and Internazionale play at this world-renowned football stadium. The
museum is also worth a visit for its vast collection of memorabilia.
Piazzale Angelo Moratti Opening times stadium:
20151 Mailand Various
Italien
Tel.: 02 4879 8201 Opening times museum:
daily 0930-1700
www.sansiro.net
Cimitero Monumentale
When the Milanese pace of life gets too hectic, take some time out to stroll around
the peaceful Monumental Cemetery. Illustrious residents include Toscanini,
novelist Alessandro Manzoni and poet Salvatore Quasimodo.
Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale Opening times:
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20100 Mailand Tue-Sun 0800-1800
Italien
Tel.: 02 8846 5600
Civico Museo Archeologico
Containing a stretch of the old Roman city walls, as well as a miscellaneous
collection of ancient Roman and Greek artifacts, this archaeological museum
spans the entire history of Milan.
Corso Magenta 15 Opening times:
20123 Mailand Tue-Sun 0900-1730
Italien
Tel.: +39 02 8844 5208 www.comune.milano.it
Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio
This monumental church is one of the world’s few remaining intact Roman
basilicas. The highlight is a decorative canopy with Byzantine Lombard
stuccowork.
Piazza Sant'Ambrogio 15 Opening times:
20123 Mailand Mon-Sat 1000-1200 and 1430-1800
Italien Sun 1500-1700
Tel.: 02 8645 0895
www.basilicasantambrogio.it
Biblioteca Ambrosiana
Bibliophiles will love this historic library, which is also home to an art gallery
packed with Old Masters.
Piazza Pio XI 2 Opening times:
20123 Mailand Tues-Sun 1000-1730
Italien
Tel.: +39 02 806 921 www.ambrosiana.eu
Shopping in Milan
Shopping in Milan
Key areas
One of the linchpins of the international fashion scene, Milan is a shopaholic’s
dream destination. The city’s designer stores are clustered around the golden
highway that is the Via Montenapoleone – here, big names like Armani and
Versace rub shoulders with super-luxe Italian boutiques. Stroll around the
surrounding streets of Via della Spiga and Via Sant’Andrea for more designer
retail therapy, or head to the more affordable Corso Vittorio Emanuele to find top-
end, high-street labels.
Markets
Every Saturday, wharf-side Viale d’Annunzio is packed with stalls selling
everything from old furniture to second-hand clothes for the Fiera di Senigallia flea
market. If you’re in town for the last Sunday of the month, the antique exhibition
market along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande is well worth a look.
Shopping centres
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The Galleria Vittoria Emanuel II is the oldest mall in the world, and the most
famous in Milan. Other shopping centres worth a visit include La Rinascente and
10 Corso Como.
Restaurants
Restaurants in Milan
Whether you’re looking to relax in a rustic osteria, indulge in some world-class
haute cuisine orsimply relax on the pavement with a glass of wine and watch the
world go by, Milan has an eatery to suit your tastes.
Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia
Recently awarded two Michelin stars, this restaurant showcases traditional Tuscan
cuisine at its best.
Via Privata Raimondo Montecuccoli 6 Price: Expensive
20147 Mailand
Italien
Alla Cucina delle Langhe
Reportedly fashion designer Tom Ford’s favourite eatery, this is a hipster hangout
serving classic Italian food.
Corso Como 6 Price: Moderate
20154 Mailand
Italien
Ristorante Brellin
A romantic, candlelit restaurant on the edge of the Grand Canal.
Vicolo dei Lavandai; Ecke Alzai Price: Moderate
Naviglio Grande 14
20144 Mailand
Italien
Luini
This pint-sized restaurant-cum-bakery is famous for its scrumptious panzerotto
(folded pizza dough stuffed with cheese and tomatoes).
Luini Panificio Prise: cheap
Via S. Radegonda 16
20121 Milan, Italy
Nightlife
Nightlife in Milan
Surprisingly for a fashion industry hub, the nightlife scene in Milan revolves around
good food and drink ratherthan clubbing and debauchery. Still, there are plenty of
places to go if you really want to let your hair down.
Dolce & Gabbana Gold
Start your night with an aperitif at this perennially chic bar and restaurant.
Via Carlo Poerio 2/A
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20129 Mailand
Italien
Trattoria Toscana
Soak up the Italian ambience and rub shoulders with a hip crowd at this lively little
trattoria.
Corso di Porta Ticinese 58
20123 Mailand
Italien
Nottingham Forest
This modern molecular cocktail venue was recently voted among the world's top
50 bars.
Viale Piave 1
20129 Mailand
Italien
Discoteca Alcatraz
A vast, sprawling dance venue with regular live concerts.
Via Valtellina 25
20159 Mailand
Italien
Calendar of events
Calendar of events
Mercatone dell’Antiquariato
This big antiques market is held along the banks of the Naviglio Grande canal
every last Sunday in the month. The more than 200 stalls sell furniture, clocks,
china and a whole lot more. The boutiques and bars along the canal are open on
market days, making the antiques market a popular gathering place.
January – December 2020
Venue: Naviglio Grande
Milan Fashion Week
The international fashion scene gets together twice a year at Fashion Week in
Milan. Spectacular presentations of the new collections make it a mammoth event.
February and June 2020
Venues: various
Salone del Mobile Milano
This event used to be called “I Saloni” but was given its new name when the
general concept for Milan Design Week was updated. Among the exhibits are
furniture and utility design, and the trade fair also includes Fuorisalone, a program
featuring art installations and evening events.
April 21 - 26, 2020
Venue: Rho Fiera Milano
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Festa dei Navigli
The Festa dei Navigli, a big summer festival held on the canal banks with street
artists, concerts and an antiques market, takes place on the first Sunday in June.
The festivities end with a spectacular torch procession.
June 1 - 10, 2020
Venue: Navigli
Milano Film Festival
The Milan Film Festival airs independent movies of different genres. What’s
special at this festival is that the films are shown in public spaces: in theaters,
museums, and galleries and even on parking lots and in parks.
September - October 2020
Venues: various
Hotels
Hotels in Milan
From plush pads catering for travelling executives to achingly hip backstreet
boutiques, Milan’s hotel scene is geared towards the luxury endof the market.
Budget finds are thin on the ground, but there are some charming hidden bargains
if you know where to look.
Bulgari
The epitome of understated glamour is well worth splashing out on.
Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b Price: Expensive
20121 Milan
Italy
Hotel Straf
Design hotel Straf is a favourite with the international fashion aristocracy.
Via San Raffaele 3 Price: Expensive
20121 Milan
Italy
Townhouse 31
This converted 19th-century Palazzo is one of the cosiest places to stay in Milan.
Via Carlo Goldoni 31 Price: Moderate
20129 Milan
Italy
Sunflower
This business-centric hotel combines good facilities with rock-bottom prices.
Piazzale Lugano 10 Price: Cheap
20158 Milan
Italy
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Crew Tip
My Milan
If you enjoy romantic dinners as much as I do, you should try to reserve one of the
coveted seats in the ATMosfera, a historical streetcar that has been turned into a
restaurant, which slowly winds its way through the city in the evenings.
(reservations at atm.it)
© Deutsche Lufthansa AG
Best of ...
cafés
© Frank Bauer
There’s more to Milan than a fashion and design metropolis. When it comes to
savoring coffee, the Milanese are veritable masters of the art. A caffeine guide to
the city’s most appealing cafés.
Let's get started with some essentials: To order an espresso in Milan, you say “un
caffè, per favore.”If you want a coffee, you ask for an “americano.” Cappuccino is
drunk only in the morning. After noon, the milky beverage tends to be frowned
upon.
Now all you need to do is address your wishes to the barista in a good strong voice
so that they will be heard – this is no place for false modesty.
Pasticceria Marchesi
Coffee has been ground here since the early 19th century – and the staff almost
look as though they had been around right from the start. You won't find a table
here, but you will be able to feast your eyes on panettone and delicious cookies
while you sip your coffee at the bar.
Via S. Maria alla Porta, 11/a pasticceriamarchesi.it
20121 Mailand
Italien
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Pasticceria Cucchi
Many Milanese swear by the coffee and croissants served at Cucchi. The café has
been in the family since 1936, and Signor Cucchi, the patriarch, still presides over
the till. After a stroll on Corso Genova, it's good to stretch your legs on the terrace
here and savor an espresso or an aperitif.
Corso Genova, 1 pasticceriacucchi.it
20123 Mailand
Italien
Pasticceria Taveggia
Candelabras hang from the ceiling, long green drapes create a cozy atmosphere,
and the glass display cases of the old-established Pasticceria Taveggia are
crammed full of delicious cakes and fragrant paninis. The bar is the best spot to
enjoy the truly excellent coffee in the morning. Afternoon guests are advised to take
a seat at one of the tables, relax and sample the budino di riso – the rice pudding is
simply out of this world!
Via Uberto Visconti Di Modrone, 2
20122 Mailand
Italien
Pasticceria Gattullo
If you like crowds, you'll like Gattullo. The café close to Bocconi University is
always packed. So if you would like to get a seat, the morning is the best time to
come. If you’re a nostalgia or retro fan, you’ll also love the look because this place
still has its original 1960s decor. Well worth sampling: the paninis.
Piazzale di Porta Lodovica, 2
20136 Mailand
Italien
Pasticceria Bastianello
The charm and splendor of the 1950s await guests at the Bastianello. In fact, it
would almost be a shame just to drink a coffee here. Although the cappuccinos are
among the creamiest in town, the tartlets and cakes are simply too heavenly to
resist temptation.
Via Borgogna, 5
20122 Mailand
Italien
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24 hours in ...
Milan
© adisa - Fotolia.com
10:00 a.m. - Brioche and espresso
Breakfast? No, the Milanese don’t need breakfast. A quick espresso grabbed on
the hoof, a swift cappuccino at the bar, perhaps a brioche – and the day can begin.
Anything else would just be a waste of time.
A stylish way to start the day is at Princi, Milan's first-rate bakery on Piazza
Venticinque Aprile, where you can watch the bakers through the glass showcase,
busily kneading dough, and see the editors of neighboring Feltrinelli publishing
house or fashion designers from any of the many showrooms in the area deep in
conversation. Really eye-catching: the staff uniforms which, by the way, were
designed by Georgio Armani.
Via XXV Aprile 5
Mailand
Italien
12:00 p.m. - A stroll through trendy Tortona
The path to hip heaven crosses a rusty old pedestrian bridge covered with graffiti
and trendy Tortona awaits the blessed on the other side. Once an industrial,
working class district, it now boasts the greatest density of Milan's hot specialties:
Nowhere else is so much fashion, art and design to be found in so small an area.
The walk from one end to the other takes no more than 15 minutes – unless the
three main parallel streets, Via Savona, Via Tortona and Via Solari, are completely
congested, which is actually no rare occurrence. After all, this is where most of the
big fashion and design events take place. But any other time, too, you will see
models (with their mother), artists (with hat and/or beard) and designers (with a
briefcase of their own styling) bustling over the cobblestones, jostling their way to
auditions or sputtering on their moped toward their drawing board, where yet more
collections are designed behind gigantic computer screens and bales of cloth. But
the best thing of all here is that aside from the marketing departments, showrooms
and press offices of the likes of big brands Closed, Diesel and Stella McCartney,
Tortona still has some of those small studios and avant-garde creative workshops,
specialist boutiques and traditional restaurants that lend the district its very special
charm.
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Via Tortona, 35
20144 Mailand
Italien
02:00 p.m. - Lunch at Luini
Luini’s panzerotti are legendary. Signor Luini has been serving the snack, which
looks rather like a calzone, since 1949. Back then, he had only just arrived in the
fashion center, bringing with him the tasty specialty from his native Apulia.
Generations upon generations have been beating a path to his little shop just a few
steps away from La Scala and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele every lunchtime ever
since. You may to bring a little patience for the wait in line, but your palate will
thank you for it.
Luini Panificio www.luini.it/
Via Santa Radegonda 16
20121 Mailand, Italien
03:00 p.m. - (Window-)Shopping
Milan is Italy's fashion city, so it would almost be a sin to fly home without getting
yourself at least one of those fancy designer shopping bags. For a first impression,
take a stroll down Corso Venezia, where you can gaze into the windows of Prada
and Dolce & Gabbana and watch the chic fashion set mince down the street on
stilettos. Once arrived at the “Golden Triangle,” fashion addicts will be spoilt for
choice: Via Montenapoleone, Via Andrea, Via Gesù? Whichever street you take,
luxury boutiques await you - from Armani and Ferragamo to Gucci and Versace. In
early January especially, the crush is so great that lines form outside the stores and
sales assistants have to close the doors: That’s when the saldi, the winter sales
begin, with price reductions of up to 50 percent.
06:00 p.m. - Aftershopping-Aperitif
At 6pm, it's closing time for Milan’s stores – and the time when city folks breathe a
sigh of relief and head for their favorite bar. These golden hours are collectively
known as “aperitivo,” something on the lines of the “happy hour” popular in other
countries but without the cut-price connotation. The after-work principle: The
cocktail, glass of bubbly or, not so common, mineral water, is served with antipasti
ranging from plates of cheese and olives or prosciutto with buffalo mozzarella to
substantial buffets. If, as a typical Milanese woman, one were not figure conscious
for one thing and heading out to a dinner date later on for another, one could
already eat one's fill here. Professionals take things a little slower and head on
over to the current epicenter of chic, the 10 Corso Como. Sure, other bars would be
cheaper and offer a more select choice of antipasti, but that is not the point. To
experience the ultra hip Milan, you have to slip into your most expensive high
heels, shake out your hair and flash a smile at the security guard on the door.
Inside the courtyard amid the lush greenery, small, fine-limbed tables and equally
fine-limbed beauties dressed in astronomically expensive outfits, there is as much
to see as at a regular fashion show.
Corso Como, 10 10corsocomo.com/
20154 Mailand
Italien
08:00 p.m. - For connoisseurs
The best Italian restaurant in town right now is not Italian at all, it's run by a
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Hungarian. Not that you would know it, looking at chef Matias Perdomo, and
anyway, after over ten years here, he is as good as naturalized now. When he first
arrived in the city, the creative young chef took over the traditional restaurant Al
Pont de Ferr on Naviglio Grande and transformed it from a “good Italian” into a
place of pilgrimage. The restaurant has lost none of its original charm – its
unpretentious entrance looks like an oversized window with iron bars dividing it
into glass squares. Pieces of paper stuck to the panes inform guests about the
lunchtime menu or the available wines. Above the entrance, in art nouveau
lettering, stands the legend “Osteria con Cucina.” Inside, the gourmet diners sit on
wooden chairs at tables laid with paper place settings. What is new, however, is
what arrives on the plate. A dessert shaped like Lego pieces, for example, or a dish
called “Admiration for Miró,” consisting of boiled squid garnished with eggplant and
parsley that looks deceptively like one of the famous artist’s paintings. But then,
any of the dishes here could pass for an artwork. Milan appreciates such
inventiveness, so advance reservation is a must.
Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 55 pontdeferr.it/
20143 Mailand
Italien
10:00 p.m. - It’s Partytime
After ten is when Milan requests the pleasure of a dance. Buffets are cleared away,
tables pushed to one side and the music turned up. Some places even close for
half an hour while the bar morphs into a small club. There are plenty of options for
this last stage of the evening. One of them deserves the attribute “legendary,” and
that's the Plastic. After a two-month break, the club has reopened on new premises
and from Friday to Sunday draws a colorful crowd, from 6-foot drag queens, the full
spectrum of supermodels and the super-rich down to eccentric street artists.
Emanating from the speakers inside, you won't hear any droning Italian boom-
boom disco music, but the finest in electronic music – and the three dance floors
tremble beneath the feet of the partygoers who, with arms stretched high and wild
moves, pay homage to the DJ. But to be clear on one thing, while visiting Milan and
leaving this club out is not a punishable offence, it certainly constitutes gross
negligence.
Via Gargano, 15
20139 Mailand
Italien
11:00 p.m. - Something else?
Where to now? If you prefer to behave like a sensible grown-up with style, then the
Salumeria della Musica, deemed by Down Beat magazine to be one of the world's
100 best jazz clubs, will be right up your street. Around half past ten at night, big
names like Danilo Rea, Giovanni Tommaso and Flavio Boltro warm up for the final
act of a magical night. Those women of the world – and now we are talking about
the typical Milan night club – who favor a tantalizing combo of VIPs, magnum
champagne bottles and a scintillating atmosphere, will don a little black dress and
seek out the trendsetter when it comes to sheer decadence: the elegant Bobino
Club. With its dark leather sofas and magnificent terrace, it is worth every cent of its
12-euro drinks. Musically speaking, the style here is more middle-of-the-road to
traditional: lounge music, guitar sounds and mellow Italian balladeers live – these,
too, can be the ingredients for a notte magiche.
Via Antonio Pasinetti, 4 lasalumeriadellamusica.com
20141 Mailand
Italien
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The great journey
Aeolian Islands
The great journey: Italy's
most beautiful islands
© iStock
Glowing lava, bubbling mud pools, enchanting scenery: The gods created seven
islands off the northern coast of Sicily. Each one is very different from the next, but
all have a direct line to the underworld. The Aeolian Archipelago, declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, is part of a volcanic chain stretching from
Mount Vesuvius to Mount Etna. Join us on a trip through the islands, where we
encounter fishermen, fire spewers and a pool of stars fallen from the sky.
Day 1 – Tour of Salina: An
island with real character
© Heike Ollertz
Clara Rametta’s guardian angel must certainly have its hands full. Why? Because
Clara, as everyone on Salina calls her, still drives a car – or at least what’s left of
her 20-year-old Suzuki Santana. Inside, the plastic fittings are full of holes; outside,
the rust has eaten through the white paint in many places and the tires are so bald
they are just crying out to be replaced. “I love my Jeep,” the dynamic 61-year-old
protests, revving the engine. With Clara at the wheel, every cat and dog on the
streets of Salina had better run for cover because the mother of two drives fast and
takes little notice of traffic signs.
Clara runs the Signum hotel in Malfa. She also organizes a caper festival and a
film festival, and co-founded the Museum of Emigration in Malfa. “I just can’t sit
still,” she explains “I never could as a child, either.”
Clara grew up on Salina, then moved to Rome and to the United States, but
couldn’t shake her homesickness, which only grew stronger. So she returned to the
greenest of the Aeolian Islands, the only one with natural freshwater springs.
Today she is on her way to see Salvatore D’Amico in Leni for some shopping. The
64-year-old produces capers, olive oil and wine. The lava soil on Salina is very rich
in minerals. “Wine produced from grapes grown here has lots of character,”
D’Amico says, “I can taste the difference.” Some evenings, Rametta drives out to
Pollara, a village on the west coast of Salina. Here, some 13000 years ago, a
volcanic crater tipped halfway into the sea, creating a natural amphitheater. The
movie Il Postino: The Postman was filmed in Pollara in the 1990s. Clara comes
here to find peace. Her guardian angel must enjoy it here, too.
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Day 2 –
Salina/Panarea/Stromboli:
Warm greetings from the
underworld
© iStock
It’s early morning, and the water laps gently against the quay in Santa Marina
Salina as a hydrofoil appears in the distance. These fast boats connect the Aeolian
Islands with each other, serving people as buses. But when the weather is bad,
they sometimes don’t run for days on end. Luckily, it’s a nice day today. Tourists
and local people board, some of them bound for Panarea, the smallest of the main
Aeolian Islands, but most are heading for Stromboli, the only active volcano in the
archipelago. It actually spits out lava every 20 minutes or so, and you can spot the
clouds of smoke above the crater from a long way off.
“We have a lot of respect for Stromboli,” says Domenico Russo, “we know how
dangerous it can be.” The 91-year-old is sitting on the terrace of the La Sirenetta
hotel, not far from the Dolce & Gabbana estate. Russo experienced the raw force of
the volcano when it erupted on September 11, 1930, spewing smoke that turned
the sky black, shrouded the island in ash and killed three people.
Russo never willingly climbed the volcano, but on two occasions, when high winds
forced his ship to land on the far side of the island, that was the only way home.
Russo married the island doctor’s daughter, became a teacher and moved to
Rome, but has always returned each summer to Stromboli. “I know many islands,
but this one is special. Everywhere, you can sense its power and energy,” the old
man explains, “I feel a lot fitter when I’m here.” It was the movie Stromboli, starring
Ingrid Bergman, that turned the island into a legend. Russo actually met the actress
in 1949, when she came to the island for three months and rented his sister’s
house. During the shoot, she and director Roberto Rossellini began their famous
love affair – an absolute scandal because both of them were married. “She was so
young and pretty, we couldn’t understand what she saw in Rossellini,” Russo
recalls.
Day 3 – Stromboli/Lipari:
Spurred on by anger
© Heike Ollertz
A new day breaks and we visit a new island: Lipari. Its volcanoes have been
dormant for 1300 years, but there’s a bright sparkle in Francesco D’Ambra’s eyes.
The blond, curly-headed 54-year-old (stage name Figliodoro, golden son) is sitting
in a cafe in the fishing harbor, trying to put his life into words. This is no easy task
because it has taken so many twists and turns. As a young man, D’Ambra left
Lipari, the largest of the Aeolian Islands, and went to Cannes. He worked as a
dishwasher, met Anthony Quinn and began to dream of becoming an actor. Back
on Lipari, he set fire to the town hall. “I wanted to protest against injustice,” he
explains, “I was a very angry young man.” He was arrested, served his time and on
his release, began working as a fisherman – until he started feeling sorry for the
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fish he caught. After trying all kinds of odd jobs, he opened a barbeque on Praia
Vinci beach, but the beach has been closed since 2010, when a couple of tremors
caused some rocks to fall.
D’Ambra doesn’t need a lot of money to get by: “I’m rich,” he says, “because I have
nothing.” But his dream of acting has come true. He has played in a handful of
films, including Kaos, made by the brothers Paolo and Vittorio Taviani. He has also
worked with Vittorio’s daughter, Giovanna. If all goes to plan, he will play a
fisherman in her next film, and he would like to direct a movie about werewolves
someday. Until then, he’s content to bide his time and hope Praia Vinci will soon
reopen. Something will come up, it always does. D’Ambra is still angry, but today
his anger helps him to live his life, he says – it helps him to survive.
Day 4 –
Lipari/Alicudi/Filicudi/Lipari:
Fantastic islands and island
fantasies
© Heike Ollertz
Lipari awakens slowly. Small shops open up, tourists wander through the narrow,
winding streets leading from the old fortress down to the harbor, where the Eolian
Star is casting off. Its passengers have booked a tour of the islands: from Lipari to
Alicudi and Filicudi, and back to Lipari. Seen from the water, the island looks
surprisingly wild. In fact, the entire archipelago has lost none of its rugged charm:
everywhere the eye can see, lava rock formations and small houses and towns
dotted with cactuses, and orange, lemon and almond trees. No sign of highrise
hotels or other architectural sins. That’s because the Aeolian Islands have strict
laws stipulating that a new building may only be built on the site of an old one. This
is why it’s expensive to buy property on the islands, which have roughly 14000
inhabitants. Not that the islanders were always well off – far from it. Stricken with
poverty, thousands packed up and left.
An hour later, the Eolian Star docks in Alicudi, the most westerly of the main
Aeolian Islands, which has a total population of just 100. There’s just a handful of
cars parked on the quay because the island only has a couple of meters of asphalt
road. Donkeys carry sacks of cement to a building site. A path of lava rock leads up
the slope away from the water toward small shops and flat-roofed houses. It’s
wonderfully quiet up here, no sound except for the wind, the waves and the
twittering of birds. What would it be like to leave everything behind and move here
forever? The island makes you think about such things. It’s hard to resist its call.
Day 5 – Lipari/Vulcano: At
home on the sea
© Heike Ollertz
The lives of the the Aeolian islanders (Aeolus was the Greek god of wind), are
influenced by the elements – and it shows. “I love the sea, it gives you so much,”
says Bartolomeo Greco “if I spend too much time on land I start to feel
uncomfortable.” The 43-year-old fisherman and father of three sails his motor boat
along the coast toward Vulcano, apart from Stromboli the only active volcano in the
archipelago. Thousands of fragments of pumice stone float in the water, washed
there by the heavy rainfall several days before. Like the other fishermen here,
Greco doesn’t use a dragnet, but the fish in the deep waters around the islands are
nevertheless becoming scarce because of the vast quantities of plastic trash and
other waste that causes the death of dolphins and sea turtles, in particular. “What I
wish for most is for people to respect the sea and to protect it,” says Greco.
Greco is a religious man and always crosses himself before setting out in his boat.
He has often found himself at God’s mercy, when the wind whipped up giant waves
and each gust was stronger than the last. In the harbor of Vulcano, in Roman
mythology the forge of the god of fire, yellowish-beige boulders gleam in the
sunlight as we approach Vulcano harbor. Hot steam rises from giant holes in the
ground, the air smells like rotten eggs, like hell, like sulfur. Dozens of visitors are
lying in a natural fango pool, in hopes of feeling the mud’s therapeutic effect. This
volcano, Fossa, last erupted in 1890 and has been dormant ever since. A cloud of
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steam clearly visible above the cone indicates that the fire is still smoldering deep
in the earth.
Snapshot
Fun facts and events in Milan
© Alberto Fanelli
Milan Cathedral
Classic sightseeing: Milan Cathedral contains nearly 400 statues. It’s not the place
to just drop by on a whirlwind tour of the city.
Milan Cathedral www.duomomilano.it/en/
Piazza del Duomo
Milan
Italy
Fiera Milano
Giant grounds: The Fiera Milano exhibition site is among the largest in the world: It
has 345 000 square meters of covered space (equivalent to almost 50 soccer
fields).
Fiera Milano www.fieramilano.it/en
Viale degli Alberghi
20017 Rho Milan
Italy
Factory Outlet
Bargain hunting: Milan is well-known for its luxury goods. Factory outlets sell labels
such as Armani and Versache at a discount.
Factory Outlet
11 Via Ramazzini
20129 Milan
Italy
CityLife
Custom built: Architects Arata Isozaki, Daniel Libeskind and Zaha Hadid are
designing the new “CityLife” district, including a skyscraper each.
CityLife www.city-life.it/en/
20145 Milan
Italy
Giuseppe-Meazza-Stadium
Home advantage: Soccer clubs AC and Inter Milan share Giuseppe Meazza
Stadium (formerly San Siro). Seating 80 018, the stadium is the largest in all of
Italy.
Giuseppe-Meazza-Stadium www.sansiro.net/
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Piazzale Angelo Moratti
20151 Milan
Italy
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