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94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:41 Page 1
THE MAGAZINE FOR CHEFS AND FOOD LOVERS
BRINGING YOU FOOD FROM AROUND THE WORLD
Autumn/Winter 2019 £3.00
A
94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:41 Page 2
KOPPERTCRESS.COM
94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:41 Page 3
Patron:
Lady MacDonald O.B.E.
Chairman:
George McIvor
Membership Secretary:
Shaune Hall
Secretary:
Susan McGeever
Executive Committee:
Warren Brown, Shaune Hall, Gary Hunter,
Douglas Jordan, Vince Kelly, Ray Lorimer,
George McIvor, Clive Roberts,
Cyrus Todiwala O.B.E., DL, Len Unwin
and Lewis Walker
Honorary Vice-Presidents:
Andrew Bennett M.B.E., Jeff Bland,
Richard Bridgman, 7th Earl of Bradford,
Bill Bryce, Reg Gifford, Ann Long,
John McGeever, Melinda Renwick
Clive Roberts and Sonia Stevenson.
Meet our Patron
Honorary Members:
Sheena Buchanan Smith, D.S. Cameron,
Gilli Cliff, Nigel Crane, William Kerr,
John Jackaman, David McKown,
Lady MacDonald O.B.E.
Colin Pressdee and John Retallick
Food matters more than ever to us all. In these turbulent times, globally, what we eat
For membership/sponsorship is both of comfort, of great interest, and almost more important than any other aspect of
information and details of the work food - it is a way of uniting individuals. If this sounds extreme a statement, then just think,
and aims of The Master Chefs of Great
Britain, please contact:
sitting around a table, eating communally cannot but include communication, and that is
what unifies.
Susan McGeever
The Master Chefs of Great Britain
Woodmans
I am unashamedly greedy - I love food! I am passionate about learning how it is produced
Brithem Bottom and the conditions imposed upon many who do produce our food. The food produced here
Cullompton in the United Kingdom really IS the best to be found anywhere in the world. In our producers
Devon EX15 1NB
we have experience, dedication and, too often needed, determination in the face of adverse
Tel: 01884 35104 weather and political conditions.
Mobile: 07887 984849
Email: masterchefs@msn.com
Website: www.masterchefsgb.co.uk A visit to the blackface sheep sales at Dalmally in Argyll recently reminded me of just how
desperate many of our sheep farmers are in the financial plight inflicted on them by political
or contact the Chairman, George McIvor incompetence in getting their subsidies to them - often longer than a year out of date. The
Tel: 07900 843690
Email: george@thefullrangeltd.com variety of the food produced within the United Kingdom is wide and excellent, from our
meats - beef, lamb, pork - to our game, to fish, dairy produce, fruits and vegetables.
But however wonderful the food, it counts for so much less in the wrong hands in the
kitchens. Up and down the land, including the islands surrounding Great Britain, are to be
found Chefs of an increasingly high calibre. The skills creating delectable dishes using our
wonderful food is ever more appreciated by we who live in the United Kingdom, but it is also
the best advertisement for those wanting to visit our country. Chefs work so very hard.
I have mentioned the dedication needed by those who produce our food. Such dedication
is mirrored to an equal extent in the kitchens of restaurants, hotels, cafes and guest houses
the length and breadth of our country.
You are these Chefs. We respect and applaud you - and thank you, for such great dedication.
With warmest wishes
Front cover: Spring/Summer 2019 Claire Macdonald
3
94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:41 Page 4
Debbie Gooder
Andrew Green
Enrico Gusella
Shaune Hall
Grant Hawthorne
Paul Hart
The Peter Jukes
Memorial Fellowship:
Chris Hazleton
Kenneth Hett
Martin Hollis
Peter Howard
Chairman’s
Mark Allison
Andreas Antona
Frances Atkins
David Auchie
Andrew Bennett MBE
Neil Hudson
Ian Jaundoo
John Jeremiah
Gareth Johns
Letter
Douglas Jordan
Galton Blackiston
Rob Kirby
Keith Braidwood
Robert Kennedy
Tessa Bramley
John Kouphou
Trevor Brooks
George Kyprianou
Russell Brown
Bruce Lawrence
Dear Master Chefs
Philip Burgess
Tom Lawson
Mick Burke
Tom Lewis
William Curley
Simon Lilley
Welcome to your latest magazine.
Paul Gayler MBE
David Littlewood
Reg Gifford
Steve Love
Peter Gorton
On a personal note, it has always been a pleasure to write a few opening lines at
Scott Lucas
James Graham
Alisdair MacSween
this time - it is now almost a year since our last annual lunch celebration at Luton
Shaun Hill
Sunil Malhotra
David Hunt
Hoo, where has the time gone?
Chris Mapp
Gary Hunter
Lee Martin
Juan Martin
Grant Mather 2019 will see our much anticipated annual luncheon, celebrated at the historic and
Gary Maclean
Stephen Mather
Robert MacPherson
much acclaimed Trump Turnberry Hotel, Spa and Golf Resort in Ayrshire, Scotland.
John McGeever
Andrew McGeorge
Don McGovern
George McIvor
Steve McGuire
David Mutter
A hotel synonymous with exceptional standards in service and food, coupled with
Donald McInnes
Nick Nairn the finest quality accommodation. Our gracious, sincere thanks to General Manager,
Ed McLachlan
William Pike
John McMahon
Ralph Porciani, and his hospitality and catering teams for affording us the
Gerald Roser
Jeremy Medley
Neil Roseweir
opportunity to enjoy our day in such luxurious comfort.
Marek Michalak
Bruce Sangster
Craig Millar
Steven Saunders
Seymour Millington
Adam Simmonds
A dear and close friend, Ralph is an excellent ambassador for all that is good within
Julien Miran
Geoffrey Smeddle our industry. His current position as General Manager at Trump Turnberry should
Christopher Mouyiassi
Sonia Stevenson
Jim Mullen
serve as an inspiration to us all of what can be achieved through hard work,
Cyrus Todiwala OBE DL
David Murray
Wendy Vaughan
knowledge and dedication. As in his past career, his chef’s life involved being hands
Tim Neal
John Williams
Bob Oberhoffer
on, leading and guiding his service staff. Ralph’s most excellent management skills
David Wilson
Jacqueline O'Donnell
Michael Womersley
will be duly tested dealing with discerning customers every day.
Stuart Oliver
Master Chefs Tony Oxley
Robert Allen Alan Paton
This year, The Master Chefs of Great Britain is supporting SAMH. Mental health in
Stasos Anastadiades Ian Perkins the workplace is a subject very close to all our hearts and whilst not qualified to
Robin Austin Steven Pidgeon
Lindsay Prior
comment on the subject, I do know this particular issue is on the increase.
Daniel Ayton
Jean-Baptiste Bady Joe Queen
Ben Bartlett Charlie Ratcliffe Its many forms expressed as stress, anxiety, depression, anger, and / or loneliness.
Tony Baughan Eamonn Redden
John Benson-Smith Ian Rhodes
Unfortunately, the sufferer, unlike others with visual symptoms, will hide their feelings
Matthew Benson-Smith Clive Roberts from others. Often such an individual’s outward behaviour can be contrary to their
David Berry Rupert Rowley
Richard Rusyn
inward emotions. Thankfully, these days mental health is openly discussed.
Joe Berry
Paul Bloxham Graham Singer Employers and HR departments are now aware of these issues and can help with
Paul Boorman Carol Schnegg confidential referrals to various forms of counselling, such as SAHM, who are there
James Brown Mathew Shropshall
Warren Brown Michael Smith
to help.
Bill Bryce Ross Sneddon
Tony Budde Eric Snaith
Shona Sutherland
As chefs, we have daily employment goals to achieve and can only meet these
Andrew Burton
Tracy Carr Neil Taylor targets with the combined efforts of our work colleagues. Work is good for one’s
Murray Chapman Roy Thompson general health and self-esteem. We should strive to encourage and promote
Tim Cheevers Len Unwin
John Chomba Helen Vass
kitchens and hospitality environments that are tolerant, understanding and
Rob Cox Garry Watson supportive of fellow colleagues when they are vulnerable and in need.
Aaron Craig Graeme Watson
Darren Curson Chris Wheeler
Jasbir Dawar Matt Wilby The 22nd Skills for Chefs Conference held in July in Sheffield was again a huge
Willie Deans Andrew Wilkie success. Many congratulations to our now, OBE David McKown, for another
Tim Dover Craig Wilson
John Feeney Russell Williams
marvellous and inspirational networking event that has been established as "a must
Mark Fletcher Jonathan Wright fixture" in our diaries. From recent social media activities, it is noted that David has
Stephen Frost Darren Wynn
Mike Zietek
the planning for the 23rd conference well under way.
Andrew Gabbitas
4
94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:41 Page 5
Associate Members Churchill
Gordon Cartwright Elite Hotel
Alistair Fowlie Enotria
Colin Guthrie Falcon
Ram Jalastrum Fresh Connect
This year, as on previous occasions, the final of Young Restaurant of the Year Carole Lindsay Harvey & Brockless
Donna Pegler Koppert Cress
Lewis Walker Lakeland Dairies
2019 competition was held at Sheffield College. Gracious thanks to all who
made the competition such an enormous success. This competition goes Kenneth Widdowson Oliver Harvey
from strength to strength and we were so fortunate to have from Lisbon, Franziska Williams Ponthier
Gary Williams Total Produce
Paul Williams Town & Country Fine
2 Michelin star Chef Henrique sa Pesssoa providing his judging expertise.
Congratulations to eventual competition winners Radmoor Restaurant from Foods
College Williams Refrigeration
Moray College UHI
Loughborough College.
and all those who
The Master Chefs of Great Britain Young Pastry Chef of the Year and David Corporate Members kindly offer their
and Major Sponsors support in so many
ABP ways for our
Lyell Scholarship has this year again been kindly sponsored by David Bentley,
Managing Director of Town and Country. A competition going from strength Border Biscuits competitions, events
Campbells Prime and the Annual Lunch.
Meats
to strength, attracting record entries. The efforts for this event’s successes do
not go un-noticed. Much appreciation to the driving forces behind the scenes
of Murray Chapman and Shaune Hall for the management and administration
of Young Pastry Chef of the Year.
Following on the heels of our annual Young Pastry Chef of the Year, was Young
Master Chef of the Year. Another competition that was well subscribed with a
good number of quality entries received. Committee Member Warren Brown
led the way in ensuring all was running smoothly leading up to the event,
supported by our Secretary Sue McGeever. 2019 has seen some growth for
this event and we are hopeful to attract even more entries for 2020.
Food fraud, there will always in life be an opportunity for fraudulent behaviour
and catering, unfortunately, is no exception. Food fraud is despicable,
dishonest and unlawful with potential to be a major food safety issue, extreme
examples being mislabelled allergens or fake alcohol containing dangerous
substitutes. To avoid becoming complicit, caterers should ensure all food and
drink suppliers are thoroughly vetted.
At The Full Range we recognise Food Safety Audits are a crucial component
of maintaining standards and certification, we carry out these regularly and
only trade with suppliers who meet our standards. Becoming the victim
of food fraud can prove catastrophic to any of us in the hospitality business
and indeed it is estimated to cost the food and drink industry up to £11billion
a year.
As ever on behalf of the MCGB, with realisation that I say this every year,
I whole-heartedly and most sincerely from the bottom of my heart thank all our
sponsors, and private individuals who so generously support our organization.
Your generous funding is vital in all that we do for developing our young
people of tomorrow.
Your generosity of spirit and endorsement is never taken for granted.
Thank you.
Every good wish to you all,
George
94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:41 Page 6
Contents
3 Meet our Patron
4 Chairman’s Letter
6 Contents
8 Meet Callum Dow of Trump Turnberry
10 Prestonfield’s D-Day Menu
16 Andrew Green of Hotel Indigo
18 Young Pastry Chef
24 Hunter Gather Cook
29 Obsession
34 Feathers
38 Stephen McLaughlin of Andrew Fairlie’s
40 Skills for Chefs
43 Young Restaurant Team
50 Zest Quest Asia
54 Passion to Inspire
60 Young Master Chef
64 Out and About
68 Sheffield College
70 The Master Chefs of Great Britain
Front cover picture:
Young Restaurant Team of the Year 2019
94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:42 Page 7
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0207 720 4126
94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:42 Page 8
Callum Dow ExECUTIvE CHEF AT TRUMP TURnBERRY
We are really looking forward to our Annual Lunch on 11th November 2019 and so we
thought you might like to meet the chef behind the delicious menu our guests will enjoy …
Callum joined the hotel as Chef De Cuisine in 2017 and was quickly promoted to Executive
Sous Chef within six months, before recently taking on the Executive Head Chef role across
the resort’s dining portfolio, which includes the signature 1906 restaurant, the Grand Tea
Lounge & Bar, The Duel in the Sun, The Lighthouse Halfway House and the Chef’s Table.
Having worked in top kitchens across the UK since 2001, Callum has over 17 years of
experience – including two years as Executive Head Chef at Balbirnie House – and brings
a wealth of knowledge to the resort.
Callum previously spent a year working as the Head Chef at the prestigious Gleneagles
Deseo restaurant and enjoyed time at Airth Castle, The Mytton & Mermaid, Shrewsbury,
and one Michelin star restaurant, Longueville Manor, Jersey.
With a strong passion and drive for the industry, Callum takes inspiration from chefs he has met during his career, including
Trump Turnberry’s Director of Culinary, Justin Galea, who has been an integral part of Callum’s success to date and was a
former Executive Chef at the hotel. He also cites Adrian Badlands and John Badley – who he met during his time at The
Mytton & Mermaid – as two of the most influential chefs he has worked with.
Taking advantage of the resort’s unrivalled coastal location, and views stretching for miles, Callum take inspiration from the
land and sea to produce the dishes found on the indigenous menus across the resort, and works closely with local suppliers
to showcase the best of Scottish ingredients.
8
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Here is one of Callum’s favourite recipes …
Lobster Bisque-1906
Makes 10 portions Add in the vegetables and aromatics and continue to cook until
soft. Gently break down lobster with a heavy spoon or spatula.
2 kg lobster bodies Then add in the tomato purée and cook out whilst scraping the
2 large white onions bottom of the pot to remove any caramelization.
1 leek 2 bulbs fennel
4 sticks celery 1 bulb garlic Deglaze the pot with the alcohol and flambé to remove the harsh
½ tbsp caraway seed ½ tbsp coriander seeds taste of the alcohol. Add in chicken stock and cook out for 4 hours
½ tbsp fennel seeds 1g saffron frequently skimming the top to remove impurities.
3 sprigs of fresh thyme 2 bay leaf
3 ltr chicken stock 100 ml brandy Remove the lobster stock from the heat and blitz all ingredients
100 ml Pernod 100g tomato purée together before passing through muslin cloth, or a clean tea towel
400g butter 500 ml cream to remove any bits of shell and vegetables.
Roast half the lobster bones in the oven at 160°C for 30 minutes. To finish the bisque reduce stock by half add 500 ml cream and
whisk in 150g of cold diced butter add a splash of kummel just
In a heavy based pot melt 250g of butter over a medium heat and before serving.
sweat down the remaining lobster bodies, followed by the roasted
lobster bodies. Serve as shown with a lobster tail and a touch of toast.
9
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D-Day
Dinner at
Prestonfield House
This year marked the 75th Anniversary of D-Day and events were held
all over the country to commemorate this very special day and one
Master Chef involved was John McMahon …
Major Charles Dunphie DL, Scottish Director of ABF The Soldiers
Charity organised The Scottish D-Day 75 Dinner and wrote:
“D-Day was one of the most complex and remarkable invasions in
history. On the 6th June 2019, exactly 75 years to the day, we
remembered this event with a gala, black-tie dinner at Prestonfield
House in Edinburgh. During what is likely to be the last major
commemoration in living memory of the veterans who took part, there
will be no better wayto mark this anniversary, where our very history
hung in the balance for those fateful days.”
2019 also marks the 75th anniversary of ABF The Soldiers’ Charity,
which is the national charity of the British Army. Set up to provide a
lifetime of support to soldiers, veterans and their immediate families
when they are in need, it was original founded to ensure that soldiers
returning from World War Two were well cared for.
Since then, the welfare of soldiers, past and present, and their families
has been at the heart of everything the charity does. Over £102,000
net was raised at the event and goes to support the charity’s
continuing work.
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JOHN McMAHON
ExECUTIvE HEAD CHEF
OF PRESTOnFIELD, EDInBURGH
Born in Glasgow, John has been at the heart of the hospitality industry
since a young age, whether that was working in a family pub, in
country hotels or as Head Chef at celebrity hotspots such as Skibo
and James Thomson’s Prestonfield.
Hugely passionate about every aspect of food, John is a keen
supporter of an army of small local suppliers, foragers and artisan
producers who flock to the kitchen door at Prestonfield. Always
learning, he sought experience with some of the best in the business,
and is now passing that back, developing young chefs.
John now manages the hugely successful high-profile culinary
undertaking that is one of a few 5 red star hotels in Edinburgh -
Prestonfield. Recognised as being among the best in the business,
John is Scottish Executive Chef of the Year and the title of Banqueting
Chef of the Year sits among his many other awards and accolades.
John regularly cooks for Royalty and Heads of State and has fed a
host of celebrities including Leonardo Di Caprio, Jack nicholson and
Ewan McGregor. He has also cooked for a conclave of Cardinals
during a Papal visit to Edinburgh, John loves using locally sourced
seasonal fair.
Leading a young and talented brigade of over twenty, John oversees
Prestonfield’s entire and varied culinary operation; from the fine dining
of the acclaimed Rhubarb Restaurant, to an exceptionally busy
afternoon tea, inventive room service menu and the most popular
private dining rooms in the city. Alongside the twenty-four hour
demands of a five-star hotel, Prestonfield is also one of Scotland’s
highest profile events venues where John regularly creates gourmet
dinners for up to 500 guests a day.
A keen walker, John is founder member of Prestonfield’s Hill Walking
club and has also completed fundraising walks along the Great Wall
of China, and Machu Picchu.
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Here is John’s menu for this prestigious event …
Prestonfield's classic hot-smoked salmon, charred asparagus, sauces Maltaise and vierge
45 covers For the sauce Maltaise
800g unsalted butter
3kg salmon 8 lion brand egg yolks
splash tarragon vinegar reduction
For the brine mix: juice and zest of 2 blood oranges
9 lt water
100g salt Make as per a hollandaise sauce.
100g sugar
15g fennel seed For the sauce vierge
5g bay 45 vine cherry plum tomatoes
5g thyme 70 gordal olives
Whisky to brush the fish with juice of 3 lemons
100 ml olive brine
Make the brine and allow to cool, skin the salmon and brine for 24 1 tbs capers
hours. Pat dry and allow to become tacky, brush the sides with 600 ml olive oil
whisky and smoke using two briquettes, approx. 2hr. once smoked 1kg banana shallots
trim and portion, brush with whisky a second time then tray up for 300 ml white wine vinegar
service cook to 50°C and serve immediately. 150 ml water
150g sugar
For the charred asparagus 40g basil with stalks
135 asparagus spears
pomace oil Pick the basil and store on a damp jay cloth for service, simmer
salt the basil stalks with, sugar, water and vinegar for 10 minutes and
pass onto the shallot rings, quarter the olives and tomatoes then
If the asparagus is tender enough remove the stalks and fibrous deseed the tomatoes store until service, make a dressing by
shoots, if the asparagus is not young and tender peal the whisking together lemon juice, olive brine and olive oil and store
asparagus, oil and season the asparagus and char in small batches in a sauce bottle.
then place into a deep container and cover with cling film to
continue the cooking.
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Roast rump and smoked rib of Scotch beef, Jersey Royals, spinach and crowdie pithivier,
shallot and morel marmalade, watercress, salsa verde
45 covers For the shallot and morel marmalade
3.5kg banana shallot 40g dried morels
Ingredients: 400g fresh morels brown sugar
10kg Jacob’s ladder 1 tsp cep powder dash morel essence
For the brining process and in a muslin bag:
1 part salt to 12 parts water bay thyme
6 tbs mustard seeds 4 cinnamon sticks orange zest garlic
100g thyme 8 bay leaves
10 cloves 1 tbs juniper Soak the dried morels overnight then sweat the shallots slowly in
10 cloves garlic oil with the muslin bag for an hour, add the brown sugar, cep
powder and the rehydrated morels with liquid and simmer gently
Toast all the spices and combine with the rest of the ingredients for a further hour, slice the fresh morels in rings and add to the
then brine the beef on the bone for 4 hrs. marmalade, cook for 30 minutes and season with the morel
essence and remove the muslin.
For the cooking process
10kg brined beef 4 charred carrots For watercress salsa
2 charred onion 2 sticks charred celery 6 bunches watercress
1 charred fennel 6 lts beef stock 50g fine grated horseradish
5 bay leaves 10g thyme 1 tbs glucose
100 ml vegetable stock
Submerge the beef in the stock and mirepoix and cook at 86°C
overnight, when cooked remove the bones and press. Blanche and dry the watercress then blend with the other
ingredients. Then mix with diced green chilli, green pepper,
When the beef is cold portion then crisp up on all 4 sides in a hot asparagus, courgette, cucumber, mooli and sibeos.
pan with beef dripping for service.
Serve with roast rump of beef, buttered Jersey Royals and
For the filling for the pithivier red wine jus.
wilted spinach bound with Kate Rodgers crowdie and grated
nutmeg.
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Clotted cream parfait, almond meringue, mixed Perthshire berries, lime syrup
45 covers Put all the ingredients into the thermo mix and cook on 45°C for
5 minutes speed 3.
For the clotted cream parfait
750g clotted cream For the berry compôte
600g whipped whipping cream 500g strawberries cut in half
100g honey 200g blackberries cut in half
500g Italian meringue 200g blueberries
350g raspberries
Blend the clotted cream, honey and semi-whipped cream then 800g raspberry purée
fold into the Italian meringue and then pour into desired mould 200g caster sugar
and freeze. 3 lime zest
50g lemon juice
For the almond meringue
200g egg white Mix all the ingredients together.
500g caster sugar
flaked almonds Serve as shown.
Whip the sugar and egg until stiff pipe top with flaked almonds
and bake at 105°C for 35 minutes.
For the lime syrup
300g fresh lime juice
5 lime zest
150g water
300g caster sugar
1 tbs ultratex
2g ascorbic acid
14
M94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:42 Page 15
Culinary Qu
uery?
O ch
Our h f can h
hef help
lp!!
Our Product Development Chef Shaune
Hall has worked in the fo ood service
industryy for over 25 year
y rs. His p primaryy role
is to get the very best fro
om our products
through using the equipment, cleaning it
and doing everything a typical chef would d
do, day in and day out. Itt provides him wiith
an intimate knowledge o of all our products.
ts.
Shaune is on hand
and to help you
get the most fro
om your Falcon
equipment. Thiss includes:
Product Se
| election
Kitchen Lay
| yout
Product De
| emonstrations
Hands-on Training
| T
Menu Deve
| elopment
Recipes and Timings
|
Cleaning Advice
|
A
If you ha
ave any queries, don’t hesitate to ask Sha
aune
e.
There’s lots of ways to ge
et in touch:
07
07770
7770 963446 01786 455296
455
5296
chef@falconfoodservice.com
@FalconDevChef shaunevhall
www.ffalconfoodservice.com
MCGB ad
MCGB ad - Shaune
Sh
haune indd
h in
ndd 3 044//10//2018 11:29:04
04/10/2018 11:229:0494729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:42 Page 16
Andrew Green of Hotel Indigo, Manchester
Hotel Indigo is the latest hotel form the IHG group and the newest hotel on the block in Manchester
situated just behind the old Victoria Station. The hotel itself is located on the City Buildings site together
with the addition of an impressive cylinder offers 187 stylish rooms and the, of course, Mamucium. Tastefully
created it makes much of exposed brick and the features of the original building and provides some
stunning view of the city.
There is no doubt that the city itself has provided inspiration for the decor beautiful fabrics from
the Manchester Cotton Mills era to ‘Made in Manchester’ coat hooks. IHG say that they like to bring the
city experience to guests and that is definitely true in this case. The hotel has everything you would expect
from a top class establishment – boutique bedrooms with comfy beds and spa-inspired bathrooms.
But our interest is always the food and Andrew Green, the Head Chef, who runs the Mamucium Restaurant
is no stranger to Manchester having taken up the challenge of creating a brand new restaurant from his
previous post at The Lowry and has spent most of his culinary career within the city’s boundaries.
Andrew writes, “Our journey started off with inspiration from the first Roman fort built in Manchester called
Mamucium. As Executive Chef, my vision was to bring this heritage into the present day by celebrating
different ways of thinking, and our specially selected seasonal dishes represent our passion for innovation.
We’ve coupled classic ideas with unique Mancunian flavours to allow you to indulge in something a little
different. Our neighbourhood is a place where anyone with an idea can change the world, and this is what
we wanted our food to reflect. We serve exceptional, locally-sourced ingredients, artfully prepared in our
open kitchen; from signature dishes to family favourites recreated with a Mancunian twist, there’s something
here for everyone, all day long.”
And that is certainly true of Mamucium’s menu which looks to use locally sourced ingredients from the
starters through to the desserts. Heart- warming Lancashire Onion Soup combining lamb, braised onions,
lamb broth and Lancashire cheese croûte , Manchester Smokehouse Salmon or Local black pudding, pea,
tomato, crisp Cumbrian ham all sound extremely tempting.
I remember my grandmother’s Lancashire Hotpot – here there is a much more refined version with cannon
of locally reared Lamb, confit leg parcel, shallot, potato pearls, carrot, lamb jus. Cheshire beef with ox cheek
suet or the wonderful sounding Mr Green’s Pie – a combination of Lancashire cheese, onion and butter
poached potato pie, short crust pastry, celeriac, pickled baby onions. If you wish to really indulge then there
is Baked Lancashire Beef Wellington.
When it comes to dessert, the northern flavour continue to shine through with Mamucium Manchester
Tart (fresh custard tart, homemade raspberry jam, banana crisps, shaved coconut), Bakewell Steamed
Sponge with vanilla pod ice cream or wonderful Yorkshire Rhubarb and Custard!
All that said and done, Andrew’s signature dish is Cheshire Beef Hash, its topped with a Burford Brown
Sous vide Egg, spiced Ketchup and smoked at the table on oaked chippings under a glass cloche.
1694729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:42 Page 17
Here is the recipe …
Cheshire Beef Hash
Serves 1
200g slow braised Cheshire salt beef brisket
20g caramelized onions in beef fat
10g crispy potatoes
5g chives
50 ml beef jus
1 Burford brown egg
spiced ketchup
roasted plums, with five spice, sherry vinegar, sugar and apple
Slow braise the salt beef for 5 hours at 150°C until soft and tender, it
should pull easily apart.
Caramelise the onions in beef fat until very golden brown in colour and
drain off the excess fat. Add the salt beef to the caramelised onions and
combine with some shallow fried potatoes, chives and beef jus.
Sous vide egg in the shell at 62°C for 1 hourr, crack and place on top of
the presented hash.
Pipe the spiced ketchup around the plate close to the beef hash. Smoke
under a glass cloche with oak wood chips and present. Allow the beef to
sit in the smoke for at least 60 seconds to take on the Smokey taste.
17
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TH E D A V I D LY E L L S C H O L A R S H I P
Young Pastry Chef
of e Year 2019
After 4 hours of intense creativity Julien Piveteau from the London Hilton Park Lane was crowned
Young Pastry Chef of the Year 2019. Julien received his prize in front of a stellar panel of judges
comprising giants of the pastry chef world - Ross Sneddon, Benoit Blin, Mick Burke, Liam Grime,
Mark Poynton and Jerome Dreux.
Julien produced a Mandarin and Chocolate dessert and an Easter All the contestants showed a great level of skill, understanding
Egg surrounded by Pate de Fruit Exotic and Moulded Ganache and pastry craft.
and Praline Chocolates. He said on winning “I went into
the competition focused and gave everything I could and thank Following the competition, Milton Keynes hosted a reception for
you for a fantastic day, your welcome, your accessibility and over 80 guests with stunning theatre canapés presented by
your kindness." George Spires, Sarah King, Richie Carter and MK College
Students and Apprentices, Seymour Millington MCGB
The competition organised by The Master Chefs of Great Britain (Chesterfield Football Club), Fern Donovan (Infusions Group) and
and supported by Town and Country Fine Foods offered a Jason Bayton.
glittering array of prizes including an all expenses paid, once in
a life time trip, to The Felchlin Condirama in Switzerland. The winners were presented with their prizes by the MCGB
Chairman George McIvor and David Bentley Managing Director
The paper judging of 20 fantastic entries took over 36 hours with of Town and Country Fine Foods.
Ross Sneddon, Mick Burke and Murray Chapman meticulously
working through the ingredients, methods and costings of each The winner Julien Piveteau received a trip to Felchlin in
entry to decide on the finalists who would compete in the Claire Switzerland, to attend their brand new Condirama course; an
Clark Academy at Milton Keynes College. engraved silver salver, a £250 cash prize and a Chefi knife case.
The finalists were: Runner-up Ance Kriston received a cash prize of £150 and third
Fiona Bailey - Orchard House Patisserie; placed Jess Rawlins a cash prize of £100.
Chahna Davies - Mosimann Club;
Chloe Hammond - Claire Clark Academy - MK College; Koppert Cress’s inspirational use of ‘The Living Ingredient
Ance Kristone - Glasgow College; Competition’ went to Chahna Davies who received a 2 day trip
Julien Piveteau - London Hilton Park Lane and to Koppert Cress in the netherlands, A Cressperience with 14
Jess Rawlins - Ashridge Estate/West Hertfordshire College. tasting dishes and a tour of their greenhouse presented by
Franck Pontais. All flights, hotel and transfers were included for
Each Finalist had to produce a plated restaurant dessert for a maximum of 3 guests.
4 covers, a chocolate egg (18 cm high) set on a chocolate base
and decorated with a chocolate ribbon and 18 moulded praline
chocolates and 10 pate de fruit.
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Here’s what the judges and organisers had to say …
Murray Chapman from the Master Chefs of Great Britain said, “Planning and
executing the competition at The Claire Clark Academy at MK College has been
a fantastic experience which will hopefully inspire many more young pastry chefs
of the future. One of the main reasons for holding the final in Milton Keynes was
the fantastic facilities available to chefs and supporters who were able to see
precisely what contestants were doing and to taste their wonderful creations at
the end. Congratulations to Julien who is a worthy winner.”
Benoit Blin (MCA), Chef Patissier of Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons commented
"This is a fantastic competition that helps promote and develop young pastry
chefs in the industry and we really had excellent standards in the final this year."
Tony Oxley MCGB from Milton Keynes College said “The Young Pastry Chef
competition at Milton Keynes College demonstrated that there is great young
talent in this field waiting to come through. I would like to thank all those well
renowned and industry specialists who took time out of their busy schedules to
judge such a fantastic competition and present quality feedback to all
competitors where they can reflect and evaluate their next steps.”
George McIvor, Chairman of The Master Chefs of Great Britain commented, "As
Chairman of The Master Chefs of Great Britain I have watched with great pride
this competition grow in stature it was heart-warming to see the skills showcased
by our young chefs in the 2019 Young Pastry Chef final. What an absolute
privilege to embrace the depth of young pastry chef talent we have in the UK.”
Maria Bowness - Head of School for Hairdressing, Beauty Therapy, Catering,
Hospitality and Events said "On behalf of Milton Keynes College I want to thank
the Master Chefs of Great Britain for giving us the chance to host the David Lyell
Scholarship, Young Pastry Chef of The Year competition in the Claire Clark
Academy.”
David Bentley, MD Town and Country Fine Foods commented “The talent on
display at this year’s Young Pastry Chef of the Year was outstanding. I continue
to be impressed and inspired by the next generation of pastry chefs. I was
delighted to present first prize and the David Lyell Scholarship to Julien,
a worthy winner.”
Cpl Liam Grime MBE, The Royal Air Force said "I would like to take this
opportunity to firstly thank all the finalists for such an enjoyable day, the skills
and professionalism that were shown throughout the day was of the highest
standard. It’s so exciting to see such young talented chefs coming through in the
pastry section. The level of skills that were shown on the day get better and
better every year. It is truly not easy to achieve what all these finalists did on the
day under such pressure. I would like to congratulate all of the chefs and
I truly look forward to hopefully working with you in the future."
Jess Rawlins, Finalist commented "I had such an amazing experience entering
this competition. I have learnt so much about myself as a chef and as a person
by entering this. I was over the moon with the food I produced but besides that
I had such a fun day. Everyone made me feel so relaxed and welcome and the
judges were both friendly and formal. I met so many great competitors, judges
and people. A massive thank you."
Such competitions cannot take place without the help of our sponsors and
supporters and we would like to thank Chefi, Felchlin Chocolate, Koppert Cress,
Oliver Harvey, Ponthier and Town and Country Fine Foods.
Photography by Jonika Kinchin of MK College.94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:42 Page 20
Here are Julien’s winning recipes …
Moulded Ganache
For the chocolate moulding Boil the passion fruit purée. Add sugar and pectin mix, return to boil.
0.120 kg Maracaibo Dark 65% Cool until 20°C. Mix with a blender. Garnish the mould at 1/3.
0.050 kg White Chocoloate 36%
0.050 kg cocoa butter For the mango ganache
0.010 kg yellow colouring 0.031 kg Maracaibo Dark 65%
0.005 kg dark colouring 0.031 kg Maracaibo Milk 38%
0.063 kg mango purée
Clean the chocolate mould with cotton. Mix 20g of melted white 0.020 kg syrup glucose
chocolate with 20g of melted cocoa butter and add the black 0.020 kg butter
colouring. Temperate and splash the black cocoa butter in the mould.
Boil the mango purée with the glucose. Pour the hot purée on the
Prepare the yellow spray mix (50/50 white chocolate and cocoa butter chocolate and mix with a blender. Cool until 20 – 25°C. Add the soft
+ yellow colouring), temperate and spray the mould. Temperate the butter and mix. Finish to filling the moulds with the ganache. Close
dark chocolate and mould the chocolate shell. the bonbon with temperate dark chocolate. Demould when
is cold.
For the passion gel
0.050 kg passion fruit purée
0.010 kg inverted sugar
0.001 kg pectine nH
Moulded Praline
For the old style praline 60% Clean the chocolate mould with cotton. Mix 20g of melted white
0.031 kg whole almond chocolate with 20g of melted cocoa butter and add the white
0.023 kg whole hazelnut colouring. Temper and splash the white mix in the mould. Prepare a
0.016 kg whole pecan-nuts dark spray mix (50/50), temperate and spray all the mould. Temperate
0.007 kg whole pistachio the milk chocolate and mould the chocolate shell.
0.061 kg caster sugar
0.006 kg water For the praline filling
0.002 kg vanilla paste 0.012 kg milk chocolate Maracaibo 38%
0.055 kg cocoa butter
Roast the dried nuts (almonds, hazelnuts, pecan and pistachio) for 10 0.050 kg dark chocolate Maracaibo 65%
minutes at 110°C. At the same time make a syrup with caster sugar 0.020 kg white chocolate 36%
and water. When the syrup is at 118°C, stop cooking and add the 0.005 kg white colouring
dried nuts. Carry on mixing until the sugar is dark caramelised and
coats the dried nuts. Pour on a baking sheet. When the praline is Mix the praline with the melted chocolate and cocoa butter.
cold, add the vanilla paste and blitz with the robot coupe twice. After Temperate and fill the mould to ¾. Cut a half caramelised almond
blitz, pass the praline through the sieve. and put on the top of the praline. Wait until the praline is set. Close
the bonbon with tempered the milk chocolate. Demould when
For the chocolate moulding is cold.
0.030 kg milk chocolate Maracaibo 38%
0.005 kg cocoa butter
0.146 kg old style praline 60%
Pate De Fruit Exotic
0.125 kg exotic fruit purée Ponthier Heat the purée at 60°C. Add the caster sugar (1) and the yellow
0.017 kg caster sugar (1) pectin. Bring to the boil and add the other sugar (caster sugar (2)
0.004.5 kg yellow pectine glucose and inverted sugar). Cook at 107°C or 75°brix if you have a
0.113 kg caster sugar (2) refractometer. Add the solution of tartaric acid. Pour quickly in the
0.031 kg glucose moulds. Let cool down until set. When it cool, roll in the caster sugar.
0.005 kg inverted sugar
0.001 kg acid tartaric solution
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Mandarin and Chocolate Dessert
Serves 4 For the sablé
0.028 kg caster sugar
For the mandarin gel 0.014 kg egg yolks
0.025 kg mandarin purée Ponthier 0.016 kg unsalted butter (1)
0.050 kg caster sugar 0.042 kg flour T45
0.008 kg nH pectine 0.001.5 kg baking powder
0.003 kg vanilla paste 0.001 kg salt
Bring the mandarin purée to the boil. Mix the caster sugar and the 0.030 kg dark chocolate Maracaibo 65%
nH pectin together. Add little by little to the purée while mixing. 0.026 kg unsalted butter (2)
Return to the boil. With a dispenser pour in the moulds (small
spheres). Wait for the pectin to act and put in the blast freezer. In a stand mixer with the paddle cream the butter (1) and the caster
sugar. Add the egg yolks and mix. To finish, add the flour, baking
For the chocolate anglaise powder and salt. When the mixture is homogeneous put on a baking
0.030 kg caster sugar tray in small pieces. Bake at 180°C for 14 minutes (like a crumble).
0.100 kg whole milk When is cold, divide in two parts. Blitz a bit the first part and add the
0.100 kg whipping cream hot chocolate, mix and put on the side. Blitz a bit more the second
0.003 kg vanilla paste part and add the hot butter. Spread between two baking sheets and
0.032 kg egg yolks cut out small rings.
0.086 kg dark chocolate Maracaibo 65%
To plate
Make an anglaise with the milk, whipping cream, vanilla paste, egg Pipe 3 dots of chocolate anglaise (one the top, one of the middle, one
yolks and caster sugar. Cook the anglaise at 83°C and pour on the of the bottom). With a spoon make a comma (swag) with the points
dark chocolate 65%. Blitz to cool down and to obtain a good texture. of anglaise. On the side of each comma (swag) put a circle of butter
sable. On the sable put the mandarin gel. Sprinkle the chocolate
sable on the anglaise. Add the cress, chocolate deco and gold leaf.
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HUNTER
GATHER
COOK
ADVENTURES IN WILD FOOD
This book is about the journey from field to fork, the relationship that you build between the food we grow and
find, cook and serve and then eat. The magic of the countryside that provides a natural larder is a far cry from
the plastic-covered supermarket food that has become so much a part of our lives.
nick Weston is a hunter, forager, each type of meat. Slow cooked rolled shoulder of venison, rabbit
fisherman and chef from Sussex carpaccio (featured below), the wonderful sounding blowtorched
and for six months he lived pheasy with rosti and buttermilk sauce (featured below), partridge
completely off the land – foraging, terrine, dirty pigeon breast with peas and wild greens or cherry
fishing and hunting for all his smoked duck breast salad.
ingredients as well as tending a
small vegetable patch. He honed Man does not live by meat alone and all these recipes need
his skills to combine wild protein accompaniments which neatly leads into the next chapter Gather.
(think rabbit, venison, pheasant) There are many wild plants and mushrooms and the key as nick says
with wild plants - sorrel, wild in his book is “never eat anything unless you’re 100 per cent sure of
garlic, ground ivy – and wild what it is. As a wise man said, everything is edible once.”
mushrooms - truffles, chanterelles
and giant puffballs. There is a very useful plant directory taking you through the various
plants and providing a flavour profile, uses and harvesting notes. The
nick built his own treehouse in 2008 out of recycled materials and countryside larder is very seasonal and more varied than one might
started his adventure recording it all in his book Treehouse Diaries. first think with 34 plants that can be classed as herbs and salad leaves
There is probably a bit of nick in all of us, expressing that desire to - burdock, dandelion, horseradish, nettles and wood sorrel are
step out of the rat race and into a less materialistic life. Living off the examples and - fruits such as damsons, sloes, rose hips and
land is certainly that! So the initial chapter covers the raison d’être brambles. It is then on to truffles which usually require a trained dog
behind Hunter Gather Cook and how nick’s desire to learn from the to sniff them out and mushrooms which are visible to the eye. nick
land eventually turned into a business. For anyone who wants to lists 16 types from the well-known field mushroom and chanterelle to
learn about the natural world and the larder on our doorstep – look the slightly more obscure velvet shank and scarlet elf cup both of
no further. which I must admit I have never seen.
Of course, out in the woods there are no electric ovens and gas hobs This chapter tells you how to make such things as smoked wild garlic
but there is, as man discovered, fire which leads neatly onto the next salt, proper horseradish sauce and bourbon bacon jam (featured
chapter. We have been cooking with fire for thousands of years and below). And then comes the wild cocktails! The Pinito using sprigs
there is a whole range of possibilities, from creating an open fire to of pineapple weed, the Wild Bloody Mary using horseradish and
the underground oven. Knowing which wood to use is also ground ivy or my own particular favourite Smoked Applewood
important and this is all covered in one fascinating chapter so I am Whisky Sour (featured below).
now fully versed in such terms as tinder, primary, secondary and
tertiary fuel – no more throwing it all on at the same time. There is a There is no doubt that his book
fascinating insight into building a waterwheel spit. Unfortunately opens up a host of possibilities and
I have no nearby river but I am thinking about building my own clay for anyone who wants to get away
oven - it really doesn’t look that difficult and would be a lovely from the supermarket shelf this is
addition to the barbecue. an absolute find.
Having created the means to cook, it is now a question of what
to cook. Hunter Gather Cook is by nick
Weston and was published by
next up is the chapter entitled Hunter - an insight into the wild meat GMC Publications in May 2019.
available and how to prepare your chosen animal or bird through a ISBn 9781784944179.
series of step-by-step butchery guides. There are also recipes for Price £25.00.
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Here are the recipes that I have chosen to feature …
Rabbit Carpaccio
I sometimes call this dish ‘rabaccio’. It’s one of the first things I do with a glut of freshly shot spring bunnies. Not many people are aware
that rabbit can be eaten virtually raw but it can as long as the rabbit used is fresh, young and in good condition. If you are partial to meat
in the raw, this is definitely one to try. The texture is amazing and the mustard emulsion gives it a bit of a wasabi-like hit of heat. Served
with pickled carrot and a few leaves from the wild, this is the hedgerow, served straight up.
Serves 2 Put the parsley and ground ivy in a bowl and season with salt and
pepper. Roll each rabbit fillet through the herb mixture until well
Ingredients coated, then wrap them up tightly in plastic wrap, twisting the ends
4 rabbit fillets, trimmed until you have a firm sausage. Put them in the fridge for 10 minutes
1 handful of parsley leaves, finely chopped before cooking, or for up to 6 hours. Put the mustard and olive oil
1 handful of ground ivy, finely chopped in a small bowl and mix well.
2 tsp English mustard
1½ tsp olive oil Heat a pan over a high heat, or use a plancha (griddle). When it is
salt and freshly ground black pepper almost smoking, remove the plastic wrap from the fillets and drop
2 handfuls of wild leaves, such as baby sorrel and cuckoo the fillets straight on. Sear on all sides for 1–2 minutes, just to give
flower (lady’s smock) to serve them some light colour. Remove the fillets and slice them across
a few ground ivy flowers to serve the grain into 5mm (¼in) thick rounds.
For the Pickled Carrots Spoon the mustard emulsion onto two plates, put the pickled
1 carrot, peeled and thinly shaved carrot on top and then add the rabbit slices. Season with salt and
2 tbsp tarragon vinegar or apple cider vinegar pepper and serve with the wild leaves and flowers.
Method Tip
To make the pickled carrots, put the carrot in a small bowl, add a You can use a vegetable peeler or a box grater with a slicer on it
little salt and mix well, then add the tarragon vinegar and put in the to shave the carrot in this recipe.
fridge for 30 minutes to 1 hour to pickle. When done pickling,
remove the carrot from the liquid and drain on a paper towel.
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Blowtorched Pheasy with Rosti & Buttermilk Sauce
Cooking any kind of meat with a blowtorch might seem strange at first, but ‘torchin’ is actually a very good way to cook with a serious degree
of control, crisping the meat, rendering down fat and still being able to ensure a nice rare middle in the case of red meat.
Serves 4 Using your hands, shape the mixture into four equal-sized balls
and then, on your palm, flatten each one out into a 1cm (½in) thick
Ingredients cake, making sure each rosti is tightly pressed together.
4 pheasant breasts, each cut into
6 similar-sized pieces Heat a large frying pan over a medium-high heat and add the
4 tbsp pork fat, preferably Iberico goose fat. When it is hot, add the rostis and fry for 4–5 minutes on
leaves from 2 thyme sprigs each side until golden brown and crisp. Remove from the pan and
salt and freshly ground black pepper drain on a paper towel, then set aside in a warm place.
4 tbsp Bourbon Bacon Jam (recipe below), to serve
a small handful of vetch and crow’s garlic, to garnish To cook the pheasant, put the pork fat in a saucepan and heat it
over a medium heat until melted and clear, then remove from the
For the Ground Ivy Rosti heat. Add half of the thyme leaves, taking care because they will
450g/1lb waxy potatoes, peeled and grated spit and crackle as they infuse into the fat. Set the pan aside.
1 handful of ground ivy, finely chopped
4 tbsp melted butter While the fat cools a little, make the buttermilk sauce. Put the
2 tbsp goose fat or vegetable oil, for frying buttermilk and lemon juice in a small saucepan and season
with salt, then set aside until ready to warm it through just before
For the Buttermilk Sauce serving.
200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup buttermilk
juice of 1 lemon Season the pheasant pieces with a little salt, put them in the warm,
melted fat and roll them around to coat. Then, using a blowtorch,
Equipment cook the pheasant very gently for 3–4 minutes, moving the flame
blowtorch back and forth over the pheasant and shaking the pan to roll the
pieces over. You are looking to just brown the edges of the meat.
Tip When the meat is well browned, cover the pan with foil and leave
After cutting the pheasant breasts into pieces, blowtorch any extra it to rest for 1–2 minutes.
pieces of meat for a snack, or reserve them for another use.
Warm the buttermilk sauce over a medium heat for 1–2 minutes,
Method then put a spoonful of the sauce into each of the bowls. Top with
To make the ground ivy rosti, put the grated potatoes in the centre the rosti, followed by a couple of dollops of the bacon jam, then
of a clean dish towel, gather up all four corners of the dish towel arrange the pheasant on top. Sprinkle with the vetch, crow’s garlic
and, holding the towel over the sink, twist the corners together to and remaining thyme leaves.
squeeze as much moisture out of the potatoes as possible. Twist
and squeeze until the potatoes are dry, then transfer them to a
bowl. Add the ground ivy and butter and season with salt and
pepper, then mix thoroughly.
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Bourbon Bacon Jam
Since its inception around 1500 BC, bacon has been appreciated by kings and peasants alike. No one is too good for bacon, so why not turn
it into jam? This recipe is fairly quick and easy to make with a short list of ingredients. Ordinary smoked lardons will work just as well; try to chop
them down if you can so they are well distributed in the end result. The bourbon really helps to add some depth of flavour and gives it an aged
taste. The versatility of this jam is never ending and it works on so many levels, from topping burgers to spooning over poached eggs or even
spreading it on toast. It is absolutely incredible.
Serves 4 Return the lardons to the pan along with the coffee, vinegar and
sugar. Stir well, then cook over a medium heat for 35–45 minutes,
Ingredients stirring occasionally, until the liquid reduces and the consistency
300g/10½oz pancetta lardons is thick and jam-like.
3–4 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped Spoon the bacon jam into a bowl and put the pan back on the heat.
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup plus 2 tbsp strong black coffee Pour one of the bourbon shots into the pan and, using a spatula,
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup plus 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar scrape the bottom of the pan to deglaze it. Make sure you get all that
250g/9oz/1½ cups soft dark brown sugar, loosely packed goodness stuck to the bottom of the pan and add it to the bowl of
2 x 50ml/1¾oz/3 tbsp + 1 tsp shots of bourbon whisky bacon jam. Stir well, then spoon the jam into a preserving jar and
store in the fridge, where it will keep for up to 2 weeks.
Equipment
medium-sized preserving jar (about 500ml/17fl oz/2-cup volume), Take the other shot of bourbon, raise the glass and smash it back in
sterilized one, for you have just created one of the finest concoctions known to
mankind. Well done. Find someone and give them a high five.
Method
Heat the lardons in a deep saucepan over a medium-high heat for
5 – 6 minutes to render the fat down and to get a bit of colour on
them, then spoon the lardons onto a plate and set aside, leaving
plenty of fat in the pan.
Reduce the heat to low and add the shallots and garlic to the fat.
Cook them for 10–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they start to
soften and caramelize.94729 Magazine - Winter 2019.qxp_Layout 1 08/11/2019 10:42 Page 28
Smoked Applewood Whisky Sour
Sours are an amazing concoction. Adding in a bit of smoke, especially with whisky, adds another dimension. During the shaking process,
the smoke clings to the egg white and gets absorbed into the drink, giving it a wonderful smoky finish.
Serves 1 Fill the smoke gun (see below) with applewood chips and light it,
then hold the tube of the smoke gun in the cocktail shaker and
Ingredients put the lid lightly on top. Once the cocktail shaker is really
1 slice of apple overflowing with smoke, whip out the tube and close the lid. Give
½ tsp brown sugar it a really good shake for at least 30–40 seconds and then pour
60ml/2fl oz/¼ cup unpeated whisky the mixture into the glass. Add the bitters and decorate with the
2 tbsp lemon juice Douglas fir sprig and the apple slice. Serve immediately.
4 tsp sugar syrup
1 egg white Smoke gun
a few drops of Angostura bitters The smoke gun is a curious contraption but worth buying if you
ice are a fan of a smoky drink. It can be used with food as well, such
as Smoked venison Tartare. Designed to get smoke into the places
Equipment you usually can’t, when it comes to cocktails, this bit of kit adds
blowtorch, old fashioned glass or tumbler, cocktail shaker, Douglas serious smoke and some awesome theatrics. There are all sorts of
fir sprig, smoke gun, applewood chips different wood chips that you can use with it, from fruitwoods to
those with a bit more spice. It works very well when the hose is
Method dipped into a spirit and just allowed to bubble through it for a
Put the apple slice on a baking tray and sprinkle it with half of the more intense smoke. Otherwise, fill a cocktail shaker with smoke
brown sugar, then blowtorch until the sugar has caramelized. prior to shaking for a delicate smokiness to finish with. For
Let it cool, then flip the slice over and repeat with the remaining presentation, brandy glasses are particularly grand receptacles –
sugar and set aside. If you don’t have a blowtorch, preheat the grill the smoke, when piped into the glass, will sit there quite happily
(broiler) to a medium-high setting and grill for 2–3 minutes on each until you take a sip.
side until the sugar is caramelized.
Put a handful of ice into an Old Fashioned glass and set aside. Fill
a cocktail shaker with more ice and add the whisky, lemon juice,
sugar syrup and egg white.
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I recently received a beautiful signed copy of Obsession 16 from
Nigel Haworth – a fabulous book which celebrates sixteen years of
culinary excellence at Northcote Manor.
northcote is a luxury, 26-bedroom hotel located in the Ribble valley,
Lancashire, and its award winning restaurant has held a Michelin star for
22 consecutive years. Established by nigel Haworth and Craig Bancroft
in 1984, northcote is an oasis of gastronomic excellence that, alongside
its award winning restaurant, also boasts a truly interactive cookery
school and chef’s table, a kitchen garden and a carefully curated wine
OBSESSION
cellar filled with unique wines. In October 2017, Chef Patron nigel
Haworth stepped away from the business to become its chef
ambassador, and northcote’s dedicated executive chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen assumed full
command of its celebrated kitchen.
But what of Obsession? Created by nigel Haworth and Craig Bancroft in 2001, Obsession began and continues
to be a celebration of the best of the culinary world. With chefs ranging from the UK’s best-loved household names
and ground-breaking newcomers to some of the world’s premier chefs from overseas, the festival has grown from
year to year to become one of the most well-loved and respected food festivals, with a format that is entirely
unique to Obsession.
In 2020, they are celebrating the 20th Anniversary of this world-renowned culinary extravaganza which will
bring 24 world-class chefs with 24 Michelin stars between them under one roof including such legends of the
restaurant industry as Rick Stein, Brian Turner, James Martin and Ken Hom. And for the first time, several chefs will
cook in pairs or trios and provide an opportunity to see combinations of chefs cook together in a one-off,
unmissable event.
On Saturday 25th January, Gareth Ward (Ynyshir), Tom Brown (Cornerstone), and Kirk Haworth (Plates) will create
a menu together whilst iconic two-Michelin-starred chef Sat Bains will be joined on Monday 27th January by
Paul Cunningham, Head Chef of Henne Kirkeby Kro in rural Denmark, who also has two Michelin stars to
his name.
northcote is also delighted to host Jacob Jan Boerma of 3-Michelin-starred Restaurant De Leest in vassen, The
netherlands on Sunday 2nd February, as well as two of Portugal’s most successful chefs: Dieter Koschina (vila Joya,
The Algarve) and Hans neuner (vila vita, Porches) on Sunday 26th January.
So I thought I would share my thoughts and some recipes from Obsession 16 to give you an insight into this unique
event. Obsession 16 is definitely one of those coffee table books and an absolute must for every foodie in the
country. It is not just a cookery book, it is a glimpse inside the culinary world introducing you to chefs and their
food from whatever corner of the world they may have travelled to northcote.
Matthew Fort’s introduction brings a smile for in 2016 he wrote ‘One of the remarkable things about this year’s chefs
is how many of them took their first faltering steps in food appreciation and cooking from their mothers.’ The chefs
made their way from France, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Peru, Poland, South Africa, Taiwan and not to be missed Jersey.
It is a lesson to us all perhaps that we should make sure that our sons and daughters are versed in the art of cooking
– not to the standard of these great chefs but able to cook a meal using fresh, seasonal produce and serve it to
their friends. The dining table provides us all with the ability to sit down and talk and share our hopes, our fears
and, of course, our cherished memories.
Those who have attended one of the so far nineteen Obsession festivals will certainly have memories of wonderful
food and superb wines enjoyed in the ambience that is northcote. The hotel has a renowned wine cellar and
Craig Bancroft enjoys discovering the wine flights that will match the food on offer.
But back to that fabulous book, I love the way that nigel Haworth introduces each of the chefs and then you learn
who was cooking on which night before each chef is given a section of their own. Here you learn more about the
chef and find the recipes for the dishes they presented.
Reading through the glittering array of names Jean-Luc Rocha, Mark Jordan, Tom Sellers, Annie Féolde, Aktar
Islam, Angelo Sabatelli and Marco Stabile, Lanshu Chen, André Garrett, Hideaki Matsuo, Peter Tempelhoff, Arnaud
Bignon, Robert Ortiz, Diego Hernández, Wojciech Modest Amaro and Lisa Allen and Chantelle nicholson you
realise just what a treat this book is going to prove. A global set of recipes from some truly great chefs and brought
to life by the superb photography of Allen Markey. You don’t just get the standard recipe photographs you can
follow each chef and their brigade at work in the kitchen.
As I read about each chef and turned over the 300 some pages of recipes in glorious technicolour, I was hard
pressed to decide what dishes I should use to bring you the true flavour of the book - in the end I decided to create
a global menu that would give reader’s a taste of Obsession ….You can also read
