THE DISTILLED GUIDE TO: CLASSIC COCKTAILS
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VOLUME 05 JANUARY - MARCH I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H TOM SANDHAM & BEN MCFARLAND THINKING DRINKERS THE DISTILLED GUIDE TO: CLASSIC COCKTAILS
CLASSIC COCKTAILS WELCOME TO THE FIFTH EDITION OF 2019 SPIRITS SUPPLEMENTS FROM DISTILLED. 2019, a new year and onto edition five of our Limited Edition Guides from Distilled! 2018 saw four editions including American and Malt Whiskies, Gin, Rum and some winter 2 WELCOME favourites. 16 of the products that you loved so much made it 4 THE THINKING DRINKERS to the permanent Distilled range including Tanqueray Seville, 6 CREATING A CLASSIC Sipsmith Lemon Drizzle, Jinzu, Malfy con Limone, Warner Edwards Honeybee, Chase Pink Grapefruit Gin, Boë Violet, 8 DOUGLAS ANKRAH Bacardi Cuatro, Pampero, Barti Ddu, Baileys Almonde, Boë 12 MODERN CLASSIC Spiced Orange, Copper Dog, Cardhu Gold and Auchentoshan. 14 THE MARGARITA This year we want to bring you more choice and variety in the 18 THE MARTINI range aswell as some useful tips and guides to creating some 22 THE OLD FASHIONED great experiences in your venue. Our four Distilled Guides to... 26 ON THE MENU: EDINBURGH will cover a range of topics this year and some great products from all spirits categories. 32 THE DAIQUIRI Edition 5 (Jan to March 2019) includes some great advice 36 SEEDLIP NON-ALCOHOLIC from the Thinking Drinkers on drinks DNA and how classic cocktails are really important to get right. Brands such as And finally I am really excited to bring a new spirits 40 HAYMAN’S DRY GIN Hayman’s London Dry gin, Our/London Vodka and Belsazar category into the range for edition 5 with 2 non- 42 BOLS GENEVER Dry White Vermouth feature as great additions to creating a alcoholic spirits from Seedlip. As I am sure you 44 BELSAZAR classic Martini. Also look out for Belsazar Rose Vermouth in are seeing and hearing, consumers are becoming our permanent Distilled range to pair with the dry white on your more aware of what they are drinking. We all know 46 OUR/LONDON VODKA back bar. We cannot talk about the classic Martini without a the stats around younger consumers that are 48 GREY GOOSE LA VANILLE mention of the serve that has been fighting for the number choosing not to drink alcohol, but alongside this 50 HAYMAN’S OLD TOM GIN 1 cocktail spot more recently – the Pornstar Martini! Grey opportunity, moderation is becoming increasingly Goose La Vanille is a great choice of vanilla vodka for both the important for a number of reasons including 52 CAZCABEL REPOSADO TEQUILA Pornstar and Espresso Martini serves. health, driving and wanting to extend the amount 54 COINTREAU BLOOD ORANGE of time we spend enjoying great experiences in 56 CHERRY HEERING This edition also features some interesting twists on the the on-trade. Fed-up with soft drink and no/low classics such as a Blood Orange Margarita using Cointreau alcohol beers, Seedlip really have cracked it when 58 TAILS COCKTAILS Blood Orange and Cazcabel Reposado. I am delighted to have it comes to a range of drinks that taste great and an Old Tom back in the range from Hayman and a fruity Danish make you feel like you are as involved in a great classic dating back to 1818 – Cherry Heering, an essential in the drinking experience as friends enjoying a classic Singapore Sling. cocktail or G&T. Onto some further twists on the classics; a range of pre-batch We really hope you enjoy reading this guide from cocktails from Tails. Offering simplicity and consistency without Distilled and find some of our tips and selection losing the theatre and great tasting liquid – the Classic Mojito of products in the range useful. Remember, if you CHECK US OUT CALL US FOLLOW US and Berry Mojito, Pornstar and Espresso Martini pre-batch are love the range in this edition they may well feature certainly ones to consider if you are looking to develop into in our permanent range for the year!. FOR FULL EXTENDED CALL 0845 072 7092 some simple cocktail serves. CONTENT PLEASE VISIT TO PLACE AN ORDER WITH YOUR DISTILLEDUK DISTILLEDUK.COM SALES MANAGER DISTILLEDUK
CLASSIC COCKTAILS THE THINKING DRINKERS THE THINKING DRINKERS CLASSIC COCKTAILS C L A S S I C COCKTAILS Welcome to our Classics to you in this supplement, but if your own interpretations and twists, the now ubiquitous Porn Star Elsewhere, Jesse Estes, bartender The supplement is also packed Supplement, a booklet devoted to you take anything away from this helping you to sell it on your menu Martini, and offer some advice on and Ocho tequila ambassador with spirits suggestions for classics, helping you focus on the craft of publication, we hope it will be an with some added information. This how to approach your own attempt delves into the tall tales around the the likes of Cazcabel in the modern classic cocktails. enthusiasm for learning more. Rest helpful graphic is something we on creating a new classic. Margarita. Put some time aside to classic Tommy’s Margarita for assured, no bartender is a slave look forward to repeating with other enjoy the stories on this one. example, Grey Goose La Vanille Classics are a cornerstone in the to the classics, but the process classics in future supplements and We’ve also visited Edinburgh. Here for that Pornstar Martini, or some craft of cocktails and the bedrock of learning and perfecting many in our main brochure next year. is a classic city in every sense, the All classics are packed with quality Haymans Old Tom Gin to travel of a bartending business. This of these drinks will lead you down history, the architecture, the whisky, conjecture, and you could write a down the classic gin route. is not hyperbole. Talk to any bar new creative paths and enable you No supplement about classics it’s a beautiful place with plenty book on the Margarita. Hopefully professional who has made it in this to build innovative drinks that are would be complete without of drinks heritage. You’ll discover Jesse’s devotion to the history This is not an exhaustive tome, industry and you’ll discover they grounded in the basic principles of reference to the Martini and Old great classics being served right of this classic will inspire you to there are many classics that won’t are devoted to the principles of the flavour and balance. Fashioned, and both get a full across the city, so we’ve provided explore further reading. be mentioned on the pages, but classic cocktails. Why? Because appraisal. But as well as flagging up some recommendations for use it as inspiration to seek them these are drinks that have endured Amongst the drinks we celebrate these fine drinks, we present them anyone embarking on a drinking And we also take a closer look at out, revive the drinks that have lost on menus for decades, that in the following pages then, is in ways to help them pop out of pilgrimage there. Amongst the the non-alcoholic spirit Seedlip and their way and use the epic history combine the flavours so perfectly the Daiquiri, one of the most menus in your bar. It’s important to many great bars there, we’ve the new revolution in non-alcoholic of cocktails to breathe new life into and still resonate with consumers important classic cocktails for any respect the classics but keep your put a bit of focus on Tigerlily and cocktails. Once a novelty act at your menu. today. Whether it’s a Margarita, bartender and a true benchmark concepts fresh. bartender Andy Latta, whose menu the back of a menu, these are now Manhattan or Martini, these your ability to balance sweet and maps out classic families and gives becoming innovative and creative classics deliver every time. sour. On pages 32 - 35 you’ll find It’s rare to create a classic, but consumers an easy instruction alternatives for non-drinkers, and an infographic devoted to the drink some have managed it, so we manual on flavours. Andy offers Seedlip suggests ways to use the You can’t put a number on how that will reveal how the drink came nod to a modern marvel as well. insights into his menu and explains classics as a starting point for many classics you should know to being, with some related drinks We caught up with the legendary why classics are important to him. some discerning drinks. and we can’t present them all and anecdotes to help you work on Douglas Ankrah, the man behind 4 5
CLASSIC COCKTAILS CREATING A CLASSIC CREATING A CLASSIC CLASSIC COCKTAILS Taste How to create Use your nose and tongue. Seems obvious, but taste the ingredients independently and regularly. Every day your palate is corrupted by something, you need to be tasting it all the time a classic to be sure. Taste as you build and taste every time you make it – make sure it is always as you expect it to be. Occasion Trends The Bloody Mary is the perfect brunch pick-me- Don’t jump on bandwagons for the sake of it, There are no hard and fast rules That said, thanks to social media But how do you create a classic? up. The Corpse Reviver No.2 combines aperitif try every new and on trend ingredient, but don’t to what makes a classic cocktail, and global connections, we Well, the best bar professionals style with a great name – Harry Craddock opt for fads and gimmicks, consider whether or unfortunately. You could argue can now see truly great drinks acknowledge there are certain described it as a drink to raise the dead, and not this ingredient really is going to be around in that to earn ‘classic’ status, a being shared wider and faster guidelines to getting started, and a dash of absinthe really makes it stand out. 100 years. cocktail needs to be on menus for than ever before. The Espresso while the competition means it The Espresso Martini, meanwhile, fits the post a significant amount of time. But Martini started life in the 1980s really is one in a million, if you start dinner lull. For the majority of classics, there is a then, if you create an overnight when Dick Bradsell was making with the basics then you stand a moment associated with them, so think where Create a drink success and it evaporates a his original vodka espresso better chance than most. your cocktail could fit into the pantheon of year later, it can never earn the and pharmaceutical stimulant occasion drinks. you enjoy all-important mantel of ‘classic’. cocktails, and that drink is now on True classics have been around for menus around the world – so there For the last few years, strong, stirred, aged decades, and so chances are, you is hope. Maybe you don’t need to Location spirit drinks have been popular with bartenders may not live long enough to enjoy wait 100 years to see if your drink around the world, which is great, but don’t your own success. is a classic. Not essential, but if you can give a drink a explore this concept if you don’t enjoy this style local feel, a connection back to your bar and its of drink. You are the best ambassador for your physical location, that might help. Don’t add a cocktail, so create something you’ll actually local ingredient no one will be able to get hold enjoy drinking. of, but with drinks like a Bellini, the Prosecco combines with a locally sourced peach puree to celebrate the romance of its Venetian Sell it surroundings. Assuming you’ve had positive feedback, make sure it’s high up on your menu. Then, Balance when customers ask for a recommendation, make them your drink. Stick with it, take it Mr Miyagi stressed this skill to Daniel-san in everywhere you go, suggest it to peers, enter Simple What’s in a name? the Karate Kid and he was right to. Balance is it into competitions. If you really believe in the crucial. Too strong and consumers won’t dig it. drink, it will only become recognised if you keep Simplicity is key, you want to make a drink all Quite a lot. The name is the brand. And to Too sweet and it might land with the disco kids, making it. bartenders can make, everywhere around the an extent, the brand is king. Try and make it but bartenders will dismiss it. Too sour and no world. Every bar needs to have, or be able to eye catching, and if it can help communicate one will want it. Hey, no one said it would be easy. quickly source or make the constituent parts. something about the drink then great. Take the Persevere The Espresso Martini can exist in the modern Bramble, an inoffensive and simple name that bar because most bars have coffee machines. also suggests a fruity drink, with blackberry Categorise Be prepared to be shouting about it for a while, The Penicillin included a house ginger syrup, being the obvious main ingredient, but also it’s likely to take decades. interesting at the time, but something we all now spring and summer in the same stroke. It’s such It might help to identify some key flavour families consider easy enough to make. Think about a strong name that one of the best bars in the to then move around and combine in different what equipment every bartender around the world is named after it. Think about the entire ways. A core list would include: strong (spirit), world will have to hand – don’t expect them to concept rather than choosing a catchy name for bitter (bitters), sweet (sugar, liqueur, sweet don a lab coat to create a single drink. the sake of it – have a reason behind the name vermouth), sour (citrus juices), dilution. But as and a story to tell. an extension also consider adding spicy, smoky and floral flavours into the mix. 6 7
CLASSIC COCKTAILS DOUGLAS ANKRAH DOUGLAS ANKRAH CLASSIC COCKTAILS Do you remember when We’re sure you’ve been asked you first had the idea for this hundreds of times but what the Pornstar Martini? inspired the Pornstar name? A lot of people mistakenly think Ha ha. I have been asked this a lot and every that I invented the drink at LAB but time I have to make it clear that the name has it was actually an idea I had when NEVER been anything to do with porn! When I I was putting together the menu was writing my book “Shaken & Stirred” in South at Townhouse in Knightsbridge, Africa, the solitude often got a bit much so I IT’S BEEN which I opened in 2002. Back then, people were gradually moving away from things like the Cosmopolitan and were looking for would occasionally frequent a rather louche gentleman’s club called Mavericks in Cape Town. NEARLY something a little different. I knew it was a great drink but I didn’t know quite how big it was When I got back to London, I wanted to add a cocktail to the menu that was a bit naughty, and initially called it the Maverick Martini (which is the cocktail’s more suitable pseudonym if TWENTY YEARS going to be. I’m a massive music fan so I compare it to writing a great song, you have a strong feeling that you’ve created something special you are wanting to order it in the presence of parents or elderly relatives!). I then described it as the kind of cocktail that would be ordered by a pornstar and the name stuck. It’s really more SINCE DOUGLAS but you don’t really know if innocent than people think. it’s going to be a hit – but then people immediately embraced it. ANKRAH OPENED THE Can you set the record straight and What was the drinking specify what the measurements, occasion and the ‘drinker’ ingredients and method are for the original Pornstar Martini? ICONIC LAB BAR (London you had in mind? I don’t think you can be too With pleasure. Here’s how to make it properly. prescriptive about the drinker or Academy of Bartenders) the occasion because, regardless The ingredients are 40ml of vanilla vodka (either of your intentions, the customer ‘Cariel’ or ‘Grey Goose La Vanille’); 15-20ml will ultimately decide for Passionfruit liqueur (Passoa); and 2 x flat bar themselves when they want to spoons of homemade vanilla sugar (I have my IN SOHO, BUT ITS drink it. own secret formula to making this that I can’t possibly share!). When I was designing it, I wanted to create a cocktail that could be *Editor - “You can use Teissiere LEGENDARY LEGACY consumed a few times over an Gomme instead!” evening. It’s a liquid dessert and a great after dinner drink, but people Shake all the ingredients for between 15-20 order it throughout the evening. seconds; fine strain into a chilled 7oz martini LIVES ON. It’s got a sweetness that people glass; garnish with half a passion fruit and have really embraced – some provide a teaspoon for eating the passionfruit. drinks serve a particular purpose Then serve a 60ml glass of chilled Champagne or period of the evening, but the next to it. Pornstar Martini hasn’t been pigeonholed in that way. The way to drink it is to eat a bit of the A cornerstone of the capital’s thriving cocktail scene throughout the noughties, LAB not only launched passionfruit by scooping out the flesh using the careers of an array of illustrious industry figures (including Dre Masso, Alex Turner, Tim Stones, the teaspoon, then sip the martini and then sip Andrea Montague and the late Gregor de Gruther) but also popularised the legendary Pornstar Martini, the Champagne – and then go back and forth a modern classic cocktail first invented by Ankrah back in 2005. between the three experiences. 8 9
CLASSIC COCKTAILS DOUGLAS ANKRAH DOUGLAS ANKRAH CLASSIC COCKTAILS Do you have a preference When you see a Pornstar Martini on when it comes to the the menu in bars that you visit, do Champagne? you always order it? Good question! Any Champagne Not really. Now and again. Some bartenders will do. A lot of bars serve it with When you first created get nervous when serving me my own drink and Prosecco now but back in 2005, the Pornstar Martini, did you think others try and introduce a twist. It’s interesting Prosecco was seldom seen outside but it’s a bit like redesigning a two-piece suit; it’s Italian restaurants. In fact, the it had the potential to become a been done already! Pornstar Martini has been a major modern classic? factor in driving sales of Prosecco No. I liked it, but never dreamed it would become as it’s a cheaper alternative – it’s what it has. I’ve created thousands of drinks and my gift to the world! I wouldn’t say this is one of my favourites – it’s like when Nile Rogers from Chic talks about “Let’s Dance” by David Bowie, he’s always surprised that it was such a big hit. If you look at What is the most common the Rolling Stones and The Beatles, their most What do you believe constitutes mistake bartenders make successful songs are seldom the best ones. a ‘modern classic’? when mixing it? Why do you think the Pornstar Taking shortcuts. I’ve seen bars using apple juice, lime juice and Martini captured the imagination IT HAS TO BE orange juice instead of passion fruit liqueur but that makes it a totally different drink. It’s often at and became a classic? SIMPLE, EASY TO REP- the behest of the bar owner rather than the bartender so I don’t blame The ritual, the theatre of the serve and the simplicity of the flavours. People just embraced LICATE AND IT HAS TO the guys behind the bar, they are it during what was a very magical time for the just trying to make it cheaper. But if you’re not going to do it properly, London cocktail scene. Every bartender looks back at his 20’s and thinks those were the best HAVE A MEMORABLE don’t do it at all. Like all classics, it’s a beautiful drink when done days of their lives but when we were running LAB and Townhouse, they truly were beautiful times NAME. THEATRE IS properly – but an awful one when done badly. Don’t take shortcuts. to be in bars – and I really enjoyed myself! Now, the Pornstar Martini has become my nemesis! IMPORTANT People call me the Pornstar guy when I walk into bars and that’s not always a good thing! TOO – IT NEEDS TO Why do you think there have been STAND OUT. MAKE A so few ‘classics’ created in the last DRINK THAT decade or so? So, what is the drink you’re most proud of creating? It’s really difficult to create a classic in this age PEOPLE WILL TRY TO I THINK THAT WOULD BE THE of the internet. But I also think that the role of bartenders has changed – so many are working MAKE AT HOME… BUT as consultants, for big hotel groups and in close “RUBY TUESDAY” AND THE “BLACK association with the big spirits companies. This is fine but there’s not the freedom of creativity CAN’T EASILY. that you get with actually owning and running STAR LINER”. CHECK THEM OUT. your own bar. If you own the bar you can happily break the rules. There’s no-one telling you what you can or can’t do – I did what I wanted to do, that’s for sure. 10 11
CLASSIC COCKTAILS MODERN CLASSIC MODERN CLASSIC CLASSIC COCKTAILS Can you name a classic cocktail created in the It’s a similar issue with themed menus. By last ten years? It’s difficult isn’t it? We posed this continually evolving and innovating with the look, exact question to a number of leading figures in feel and tone of the menu, bartenders don’t give the industry, a lot of head-scratching ensued. themselves the time to perfect a cocktail or the patience to play around with the formula to a For many, the most recent drinks that could truly point that it can potentially achieve greatness. be considered classics dated back to 2005. These were “The Penicillin”, a peaty Scotch And then, of course, there’s the scourge sipper by Sam Ross of Milk & Honey in New of social media. Michael Butt, founder of York; and the “Pornstar Martini” a drink originally Soulshakers and creator of the “Pieces of Eight” designed by Douglas Ankrah in London – yet aka “Treasure Chest” while at Mahiki, blames now widely available in canned form on the the rise of the phone camera for stopping his shelves of major supermarkets. brilliant idea becoming a modern classic. Butt was responsible for breathing life back into Other industry folk had to cast their minds back the classic “Fish House Punch” but its fame, to the 80’s when the renowned Dick Bradsell spread globally by the proliferation of pictures created both the Bramble and the Espresso on social media, meant bars could simply swap Martini – currently enjoying quite phenomenal the treasure chest for a different vessel – and popularity in bars up and down the country. the move to ‘modern classic’ was made all the more unlikely. MODERN But why is it that during the last fifteen years, That said, any original drink that captures CLASSIC no cocktails have been ushered into the the imagination of both fellow bartenders and unofficial cocktail hall of fame? Well, perhaps customers, one that is easy to replicate, served time is a factor. There may be contemporary with charm and theatre, and priced in a way that drinks being drunk out there that will only be is affordable for the customer yet profitable confirmed as classic as time passes and with for the bar still has the potential to be a the benefit of hindsight. ‘modern classic’. Perhaps it’s because everything has been done What’s more, just like the old school classics, before. After all, there’s only so much you can modern classics such as the Espresso Martini do with a drink – playing around with different and the Pornstar Martini; the Bramble and the proportions of alcohol, sweet, bitter and sour. No Penicillin, are reassuring markers on the menu matter how great a drink tastes or how original and proven profit generators – but only if they’re it appears, there will be a historian of hooch done well. that will blow the dust from a weighty cocktail tome and reveal that, actually, something very ESPESSO similar was created some centuries before. In M ARTI NI short, we’re simply using the same notes but in a different order. 12 13
CLASSIC COCKTAILS THE MARGARITA THE MARGARITA CLASSIC COCKTAILS Jesse Estes is one of the world’s leading tequila experts. As well as a Danny Herrera claimed to have invented the Margarita in the late London-based bartender and author he 40’s at the Rancho La Gloria Hotel, is a brand ambassador for Tequila Ocho located about seven miles south of Tijuana in Baja California. that has spent years learning about the As the story goes, he created the spirit. Here he gives us his take on the drink for Marjorie King, a showgirl fabled story of the Margarita, a drink and star of the silent screen. She had claimed to be allergic that’s drenched in mystery. to every type of alcohol except tequila, although she couldn’t drink it straight or with lime and This storytelling goes hand in hand salt. Herrera mixed three parts with a classic cocktail, and while there tequila, two parts Cointreau and isn’t always time to regale the one part fresh lemon juice, serving it in a stemmed glass rimmed with customers with tall tales, every now rock salt, and named the drink and then, a bit of historical context can ‘Margarita’ – Spanish for Marjorie. When, later in his life, Herrera make a drink more compelling when was asked when exactly he had introduced for the first time. first mixed this drink, he thought it would have been in October or November of 1947 or 1948, adding The that: “Three things happen when you get old. You lose your memory, and I can’t recall the other two.” Margarita The Margarita is indisputably south of the Mexican border – or One story goes that Margarita Sames, a Texas socialite, tequila’s most famous incarnation at a Texas socialite’s house in originally came up with the Margarita during the 1948 as a mixed drink, and arguably Acapulco; that it was named after a Christmas holiday at one of her parties in Acapulco, Mexico. one of the most widely – and bartender’s girlfriend who had her She was attempting to mix tequila with Cointreau and wildly – popular beverages of the head shot off; and that it was made eventually added lime and a salt rim. According to Sames, second half of the 20th century. for a silent movie star who simply the drink remained unnamed or was simply referred to Yet for such a ubiquitous libation, couldn’t stomach her tequila any as ‘Margarita’s drink’ until her husband gave her a set of the Margarita’s true origins remain other way. As the publication Texas champagne glasses with her first name engraved on them, largely uncertain, though many Monthly put it memorably in an and the drink’s name was born. The cocktail’s recipe was theories, conjectures, and legends issue: “Who created the Margarita, spread by many of the social matron’s influential friends, prevail. They range from its and when? It would be easier to among them John Wayne and the Hilton family. This is the creation taking place in different identify the missing link between inception story that the French triple sec producer Cointreau hotels or bars – on, north, or man and ape.” has officially adopted, and frequently included in their advertising and marketing campaigns. 14 15
CLASSIC COCKTAILS THE MARGARITA THE MARGARITA CLASSIC COCKTAILS ‘King Cocktail’ Dale DeGroff identifies the roles of Sames and Herrera as being the most “key or instrumental”, if not in the Margarita’s creation, then at My preferred least almost certainly in MARGARITA its proliferation. Next there’s the story told by Vern Underwood Sr., then president of Young’s Market Co., which 50ml Tequila Ocho Blanco had acquired the Californian distribution of Jose Cuervo in the 1930’s. Underwood credited Johnnie Durlesser, at the time a bartender at the Tail of the Cock in Los Angeles, as 25ml freshly squeezed having created the Margarita, after he asked lime juice Durlesser to recreate a drink he had tried in Mexico. Durlesser allegedly named the drink he created after his wife Margaret (hispanicised to Margarita). Underwood began marketing 25ml Ferrand Dry Curaçao this “new-found’ drink, taking out full-page advertisements made famous by the slogan “Margarita, more than a girl’s name.” Regardless of whether Johnnie Durlesser actually created Glass: Rocks the first Margarita, Underwood’s ad campaign helped to boost the drink to superstardom and possibly even had an influence in propelling the Garnish Cuervo brand to the market leader position it now enjoys. Half salt rim (ideally Maldon An earlier theory surrounds Danny Negrete, brand salt flakes) and optional who claims to have invented the Margarita in lime wedge 1936. The story goes that Negrete created the drink for his girlfriend at the bar he had opened Looking to the earliest mentions of the Margarita with his brother in the Garci Crespo hotel, in in print, we find the December 1953 issue of Puebla, Mexico, naming the drink after her – Esquire proclaiming “She’s from Mexico, and her Method comprised of equal parts tequila, triple sec, and name is the Margarita cocktail,” with the recipe lime juice, served in a rocks glass over crushed quoted as one ounce of tequila with a dash Shake all ingredients vigorously ice. However, according to Salvador Negrete, Daniel’s son, his father created the drink in of triple sec and the juice of a lime or lemon. However, the article doesn’t credit anyone as before double straining into honour of his sister-in-law at his brother David’s being the original creator of the Margarita. rocks glass over cubed ice wedding (you can probably guess her name). It is Long story short, will we ever know the also noteworthy to add that Danny Negrete went Margarita’s true origins? Like all the best on to work at a number of other bars in Mexico, legends, it is probably best to take these one of which being the Agua Caliente racetrack different accounts of the drink’s alleged creation in Tijuana – yet another venue claiming to be the like you would a nice cold Margarita – with a birthplace of the drink. generous pinch of salt. 16 17
CLASSIC COCKTAILS THE MARTINI THE MARTINI CLASSIC COCKTAILS No other drink captures that The Martini may have had more moment, when the short arm twists than a Chubby Checker strikes six (or indeed five if you’ve tribute night but in its most had a really horrible day) more classic configuration, the key is to magnificently. Staggeringly simple capture the conversation between yet deceptively difficult to master, the gin and the vermouth while the Martini is unashamedly brazen simultaneously striking the right in its booziness, transparent in both balance between dilution and appearance and intention; clean- temperature. lined yet complex, a v-shaped salute to the tribulations, trudge Keep it cold. As cold as possible. and tyranny of modern life – and The shaker, the gin, the vermouth rightly considered as the king of the and the glasses. Everything. classic cocktails. Freshness, as ever, is fundamental. As American essayist Bernard Steeped in a colourful history, DeVoto contests in his book “The the memoirs of the Martini are, as Hour: A Cocktail Manifesto” - “You ever, the topic of much contention can no more keep a Martini in the among cocktail historians. Some refrigerator than you can keep a contend the cocktail’s beginnings kiss”. In this current era of ‘mindful date back to the Martinez during drinking’, it is worth noting that the goldrush in the 19th Century DeVoto warns against making while others claim the forefather Martinis too strong – drinking How can you do business without to the Martini was the Marguerite – one should give you the belief booze? After all, alcohol has been first mentioned in 1900. that “at any moment we may see oiling the wheels of commerce the unicorn. But it would not be a for more than a century, drink is Over the years, the Martini has Martini if we should see him”. the driving force behind modern become progressively drier and Capitalism and, let’s be honest, no developed into a drink that, today, other cocktail has fuelled the free- deftly dovetails with the current market economy more famously ‘gin-aissance’. No other cocktail THREE MARTINI and fervently than the Martini. captures the true character of LUNCH a gin, or indeed vodka, more Back in the 1960s and 70s, the concisely than a Martini - gently Last year, Lloyds of London, one “Three Martini Lunch” was a regular laying botanicals bare and of the oldest and most iconic ritual for those working on Wall ruthlessly revealing the spirit’s of British insurance institutions, Street and Madison Avenue in New flavour and, indeed, flaws. announced it was forbidding its York. It was an American imbibing employees from indulging in the institution when business folk iconic ‘liquid lunch’. would go out for lunch and have a Martini before the meal, a Martini A couple of bottles of clarets with during the meal and a Martini after clients? A swift half with Susan the meal. Clients would become from Finance? Not anymore. companions, any devil in the “Drinking alcohol affects individuals detail of prospective deals would differently,” announced an internal magically disappear, and binding email sent to its 800 staff. “A contracts would be drawn up zero limit is therefore simpler, and signed on bar napkins. And more consistent and in line with the best thing about it? It was tax the modern, global and high- deductible. performance culture that we want to embrace.” In the late 1970s, President Gerald Ford said, “The three-Martini As news of its outright ban on lunch is the epitome of American boozing between nine and five efficiency. Where else can you get spread, pints were spluttered onto an earful, a bellyful and a snootful pinstripes throughout the City. at the same time?” 18 19
CLASSIC COCKTAILS THE MARTINI THE MARTINI CLASSIC COCKTAILS DIRT Y MARTINI WITH OYSTERS This is, apparently, how Franklin D Roosevelt SIMPLE SUGGESTIONS: Alas, times have changed, preferred his Martini – made using a special set of and asking the taxpayer to silver shakers and famously sipped after he signed subsidise a liquid lunch is no the 21st Amendment that ended prohibition. Made longer deemed acceptable with a bar spoon of olive brine, this is ideal with the on either side of the Pond. sea-swept saltiness of a fresh oyster. It really works, DUKES MARTINI But of all the ways to reduce shuck it and see. HERE ARE SOME the UK’s trillion-pound Drinking a Martini at Dukes Hotel in Mayfair is an deficit, breathing life back Martini glass unforgettable imbibing experience. The hotel bar, into the iconic “Three Martini whose renowned regulars included Ian Fleming of Lunch” is certainly the most 60ml gin James Bond fame, has become synonymous with a enjoyable – much more signature, old-school serve. fun than austerity (albeit 5ml olive brine arguably less effective). At Dukes, the martini is brought to the customer on 7ml vermouth a classic Rosewood drinks trolley. Its preparation Of course, given the harks back to the fifties and was created originally sensible sipping times in Method by the legendary Salvatore Calabrese. A huge, which we now live, drinking Stir the ingredients with ice and strain into the glass. frozen V-shaped Martini glass is thinly coated three Martinis over lunch Garnish with an olive with very little vermouth and then filled with either is no longer considered freezing cold vodka or, preferably, freezing cold acceptable. But that doesn’t CLASSIC MARTINI juniper-led London dry gin. There’s no stirring. And prevent bars bringing it certainly no shaking. back – why not spread To be enjoyed alone without any interference from anything three different Martinis edible, the Classic dry martini is the ultimate aperitif, capable Crucial to the classic at Dukes is the Amalfi lemon across smaller serves and of stimulating salivary glands from a hundred yards and the twist – introduced by Duke’s esteemed head accompany them with food? perfect way to prepare your palate for the food ahead. bartender Alessandro Palazzi. A big slice of the large citrus fruit is gently squeezed between finger A great way to showcase Given that customers will most likely have experienced a and thumb which creates a thin layer of oil atop of the versatility of the Martini classic Martini before, why not serve up a softer and sweeter the chilled spirit. As the gin becomes more viscous is by celebrating its kinship version to start? Swap the dry vermouth for the acutely when almost frozen, the citrus oils don’t sink and with cuisine. Cocktail and aromatic and eye-catching Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, a the temperature also numbs the smell of the spirit food pairing can often be dark violet-hued vermouth more readily associated with – allowing the Amalfi lemon to really come through contrived but it can really Negronis and Manhattans. Rich in autumnal fruit, orange zest on the nose. work when done well. and warming spice but with all the bitter appetite-inspiring essentials you’d expect from an aperitif, it works wonderfully You need large lemons too as there are five shots Even when confined to in a Martini and contains enough character to simply sip of alcohol in a Dukes Martini. And they cost £19.50. using the core ingredients over ice. Hence the house rule that no-one can have more in a Martini, the bartender GIBSON MARTINI than two. has the tools to tailor it to a Martini glass specific dish. With a glass of Martini glass wine, for example, there’s not 60ml gin Instead of an olive or lemon twist, this robust relation that same level of freedom of the classic Martini calls on the face-contorting A few dashes of white, dry vermouth to play around with flavours. 3 teaspoon dry vermouth/Cocchi Vermouth di Torino pickled onion as its garnish. This is superb with steak tartare, slicing through the meat and lifting the A few drops of Amalfi Coast lemon oil By pairing the following Ice cubes fatty texture off the palate with ease. Martinis with different 1 slice lemon rind from lemon dishes, and in less potent Olive or lemon zest twist Martini glass quantities, customers Frozen gin or vodka can experience the iconic Method 60ml gin “Three Martini Lunch” yet Stir the ingredients in a mixing glass with ice still be able to walk out of the and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with an 15ml vermouth venue unaided. olive or lemon zest twist Method Stir all the ingredients with ice and garnish with a pickled onion 20 21
CLASSIC COCKTAILS THE OLD FASHIONED THE OLD FASHIONED CLASSIC COCKTAILS The Old Fashioned is a classic FA SHIONED OLD cocktail that should really adorn every cocktail menu. Not content with a whole heap of history behind it, arguably more than any other classic, a competently made Old Fashioned is a reliable rubberstamp of quality for customers. If a bar can make an excellent Old Fashioned, The simplicity of the Old Fashioned chances are that the other drinks may open itself up to interpretation, on the venue’s list can be deftly but it certainly doesn’t suffer delivered too. foolishness and frippery gladly. The past has proven that frivolous It’s a badge of honour among The search for the origins of the But now the Old Fashioned is in twists that depart dramatically modern bartenders. In fact, the Old Old Fashioned has remained a the midst of a revival, revelling from its core components are Fashioned has been consistently frustratingly futile exercise for in a renewed respect among rarely well-received. named as the most asked for cocktail historians – no-one knows bartenders who, in a wider quest cocktail among the venues that or perhaps will ever know where it for authenticity, and inspired by Muck about too much with this make up the “World’s Top 50 Bars” was first served - but the earliest a revival in Rye whiskey, have cornerstone of the bartenders art – proof that it truly is a calling card written appearance of the recipe returned to the original recipes that and your customers, just as they of quality. comes from a chap in Chicago first earned it its reputation as a did after Prohibition, will soon be called Theodore Proulx, who true classic. asking for a “Whisky Cocktail” the As arguably the oldest recorded having bartended at a drinking Old Fashioned way. cocktail, first appearing as the establishment called Chapin & As well as making it the way it is “Whisky Cocktail” in Jerry Thomas’ Gore, wrote a cocktail book in 1888 meant to be made – a combination Bartenders Guide back in 1862, the called the “Bartenders’ Manual”. of water, Whiskey, sugar and Old Fashioned has a whole load of bitters – bartenders have riffed history behind it and its origins, as While a staggeringly respectfully on the classic without ever, is the topic of much debate. straightforward serve in theory, demeaning it as a drink; playing the Old Fashioned has sadly around with different bitters and been subjected to all manner sugars, substituting whiskey with of unnecessary interpretations other spirits including reposado since its inception more than 130 tequila, aged rum, single malts years ago. Silly squirts of soda and blended Scotch, cognac water, insufficient and inferior ice, and armagnac, calvados or even muddling of fruit and less than genever. The Old-Fashioned recipe wonderful whiskey have all too is a template that one can apply to often reduced it from a wonderfully most spirits. austere, unembellished drink to a rather silly concoction undeserving In fact, the Oaxaca Old Fashioned, of the Old Fashioned name. created by Phil Ward in New York, is a cocktail that opened bartender’s eyes to agave spirits while the Benton’s Old Fashioned, designed by Don Lee of “Please Don’t Tell”, was the first drink to introduce fat-washing spirits. 22 23
CLASSIC COCKTAILS THE OLD FASHIONED THE OLD FASHIONED CLASSIC COCKTAILS Sazerac The Sazerac is the strong, strapping sibling to the Old Fashioned. For American whiskey enthusiasts, or indeed those with a fondness for a spicier Rye whiskey, both these classic cocktails will put a smile on your face - but only the Sazerac will put hairs on your chest… and also other parts of the body where you wouldn’t normally expect them. It’s the rinse of absinthe that sets this short and stirred spirit-forward cocktail apart from the Old Fashioned. Benton’s The wild Green Fairy liquid from France may only make a fleeting appearance but it lifts the drink wonderfully and is Old Fashioned a nod (or perhaps a Gallic shrug) in the direction of its New Orleans’ roots. 40ml bacon fat-infused bourbon* There’s considerable conjecture as to whether the Sazerac 5ml maple syrup was first conceived using Cognac instead of American 2 dashes Angostura aromatic bitters whisky, with New Orleans bartenders swapping the brandy for bourbon after the pesky phylloxera bug laid waste to Method French vineyards. Stir the bourbon and maple syrup in a mixing glass with ice. Then add the bitters and stir. But what is beyond doubt is that other essential ingredient Strain into a chilled Old Fashioned glass filled to a classic Sazerac - Peychaud bitters. Invented by New with ice. Garnish with an orange slice. Orleans resident Antoine Amedee Peychaud back in the 1830s, these slightly sweet bitters, adorned with a lovely *To make the bacon-infused bourbon: anise aroma, are an indispensable, unwavering element of a Take four strips of smoky bacon and fry in a true Sazerac. pan. Take 30ml of bacon fat and strain it into a Old Fashioned container filled with 70cl of bourbon. Leave it to steep in the whiskey for 6-8 hours or overnight at room temperature before placing 1 teaspoon of sugar syrup the bottle in the freezer. Once the fat has 2 dashes of Angostura bitters congealed in the bottle, strain the bourbon into a 75ml bourbon whiskey new, clean bottle. Orange zest to spritz Method Place the sugar syrup and bitters in a glass, 60ml Bourbon add one ice cube and stir. Add some of the Sugar cube bourbon with another ice cube and continue 1 x Peychaud’s bitters stirring. Keep adding ice and bourbon 10ml Absinthe alternately, while stirring, until all the bourbon 1 x Lemon zest has been added. Stir again, then squeeze the oil from the orange zest over the drink, drop in the Method zest and continue stirring. The whole process Fill the glass with ice. In a mixing tin, soak the sugar cube with should normally take a few minutes, but if the ice four decent dashes of Peychaud bitters, then crush the cube is wet make sure you taste as you go to avoid and add the Rye Whiskey. Empty the ice from your glass, add over-dilution. the absinthe, swirl around the glass and discard. Stir your whiskey mix on ice to chill then strain into to the glass and spray lemon zest on the top of the glass. 24 25
CLASSIC COCKTAILS ON THE MENU: EDINBURGH ON THE MENU: EDINBURGH CLASSIC COCKTAILS EDINBU RGH BRAMBLE If you need evidence of its brilliance then note that Bramble regularly features on industry polls and picks up the top bar gongs. The team’s unwavering integrity and commitment to a grounding in skills like the classics, earns the plaudits. A Martini is often a benchmark for the Edinburgh is one of the Thinking Drinkers, and whenever we’ve had one great drinking cities on here, it’s been immaculate, so we recommend the planet. Tourists pour in you start any classic cocktail tour here. from the four corners and shelter from weather with Jason Scott and Mike Aikman, the legends whisky or local gin in hand. behind Bramble, also launched The Lucky Pubs once offered the Liquor Co., another excellent bar within walking safest of havens, and they distance, and once again, you’ll discover bar still provide a welcome staff well versed in the classics. But after a retreat, but today the classic, try one of the Lucky Liquor menu city also boasts some of drinks - their approach provides an interesting the best cocktail bars on experiment in learning all you can from every the planet. Exceptional bottle on the back bar. “We’ve always worked ingredients, an eye for from this idea - we select thirteen bottles, design and a pool of create a menu with thirteen drinks, and run it for talented tenders all thirteen weeks,” they say. This is some feat, but ensure this is an essential they pull it off. pilgrimage for anyone hoping to learn more Mike and Jas also run the Last Word in the about cocktails, Stockbridge neighbourhood, again named after particularly classics. a great classic. The bar’s Last Word Revisited is a stunning cocktail, but the bar also excels Take Bramble for with it’s simple serves. It’s Quiquiriqui Matatlan example, a bar that even mezcal with Chartreuse goop and adopts its moniker from Ting grapefruit soda is an inspired highball. a great modern classic cocktail. The alumni of bar professionals makes for a long and impressive list, BON VIVANT amongst them the renown Ryan Chetiyawardana Elsewhere you’ll learn plenty from the Bon vivant, for example, but every the creation of Stuart McCluskey, another time one leaves, another splendid stalwart of the scene. Sours, cobblers, superstar takes their place. fizzes and mules all make it onto the menu in Edinburgh is like this, a a twisted form, there’s even a Scotch Colada fertile breeding ground for to show how classics have informed modern brilliant bartenders, and interpretations. Stuart also launched The Devil’s as the city’s spirits scene Advocate, a fantastic bar in Edinburgh’s Old continues to evolve, Town that is perfect for an Old Fashioned; El the numbers of bars Cartel, a great place for a frozen Margarita; and achieving the highest in 2019 he will have a new bar in the form of standards grows. Lady Libertine. 26 27
CLASSIC COCKTAILS ON THE MENU: EDINBURGH ON THE MENU: EDINBURGH CLASSIC COCKTAILS COCKTAILS ATTAINABLE SUNSHINE 9.5 Glenmorangie whisky, Rinquinquin, basil, bitters & London Essence tonic WALK OFF THOSE BLUES 34.5 HIGHBALLS & FIZZES Johnnie Walker Blue whisky, Champagne syrup & bitters EASTSIDE IRIS 8.5 Hendricks gin, lime, sugar, cucumber, mint & egg white BUZZ THE TOWER 10 TOM COLLINS Grey Goose vodka, Briottet Fraise, Solerno blood orange liqueur, lemon juice & sugar syrup 8.5 Bombay Sapphire gin, lemon, sugar & soda THROUGH THE GRAPEVINE 10 MORNING GLORY FIZZ Ciroc vodka, Briottet Banane, Aloe Vera water & soda, topped with Prosecco 9 Dewars 12 whisky, lemon, GREATEST ADVENTURE lime, sugar, Absinthe, soda & egg white 8.5 Whitley Neill Rhubarb gin, Cointreau, Cherry Heering liqueur, TheMAMIE TigerlillyTAYLOR 8.5 lemon juice & coconut cream, topped with bitter lemon menu is a NOale TURNING BACK 8.5 Copper perfect example Dog,oflime how a& gingerRoku gin, plum wine, lemon, Cocchi Barolo, bar can draw attention to Vida Mezcal, topped with bitter lemon A PLAIN OLD BISON classics cocktails. As well 8.5 Zubrowka as their vodka, Stolichnaya Salted Caramel vodka, own creations, lemon, ginger, apple, soda SOURS the menu clearly dissects & egg &whiteDAISIES classics styles and OLD CUBAN families, so that Sours 15 Flor de & Daisies areCaña DAIQUIRI bitters, mint & Veuve Clicquot Champagne 7 rum, lime, sugar, packaged 8.5 Bacardi Carta Blanca rum, lime & sugar together in one section, LIVENER while Highballs & Fizzes WHISKY SOUR 10 8.5 areWild Cat gin, lemon, raspberryNaked syrup, bitters Grouse whisky, & Veuve lemon, Clicquot sugar, bitters Champagne & egg white in another. COSMOPOLITAN 9 PALOMA Stolichnaya citrus vodka, Cointreau, lime juice & cranberry juice 9 IGERLILLY El Jimador Blanco tequila, grapefruit, lime, sugar & soda QUEEN STREET 8.5 Bacardi Carta Blanca rum, Martini Ambrato, DARK ‘N’ STORMY lemon, sugar, celery bitters & Islay whisky spray 8.5 Goslings rum, lime, sugar syrup, Angostura bitters & ginger beer CLOVER CLUB 9 Edinburgh gin, lemon, raspberry & thyme syrup, vermouth & egg white JIM BEAM HIGHBALL JIM BEAM AMARETTO SOUR 9 8.5 Jim Beam bourbon & Grand Marnier liqueur, Panda & Sons stands out for its fantastic But when it comes to an exhibition Disaronno Amaretto, Jim Beam Double Oak whiskey, lemon, sugar, bitters & egg white topped with orange & Pandan soda classics section, including a Bamboo, Angel of classics on a menu, Tigerlily PENICILLIN 9 Face, Brown Derby and Between the Sheets. takes some beating, and provides STAR HILL SPRITZ 9 Copper Dog, Lagavulin 16 whisky, lemon, honey & ginger Meanwhile the twist on the Red Snapper is a useful example of how to present SIDECARlime juice & sugar syrup, 9 Makers Mark bourbon, Aperol, worth checking out mixing Tanqueray Gin, these drinks in the bar. Courvoisier VSOP Cognac, Grand Marnier, lemon & sugar topped with Prosecco & soda tomato juice, kaffir lime leaves, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, sriracha sauce and The bar at the hotel is another Guinness foam. Then there’s the Voodoo with an impressive list of past Rooms, which has an excellent twist on the Mai Tai with it’s Rye Tai - a mix of Bols Genever, blue bartenders, amongst them is Jamie MacDonald, who now FIXES & SWIZZLES There isn’t masses of information available for curaçao, lime and orgeat housed in crushed runs the excellent Black Dahlia in the cocktails, this is a high volume bar after ice, then topped with a prized layering of Edinburgh – yet another must-see. all, but by taking this approach the menu is Rittenhouse Rye. Jamie is one of the leading voices subtly leaving the customer with an insight into in the bar industry, with decades MOJITO classics. More importantly, the menu helps the 9 Bacardi Carta Blanca rum, lime, sugar, mint & soda And the recently opened Hawksmoor is also a of experience working and running bar understand what drinks actually perform. must-visit, again, the staff here have been drilled bars, he is also mentoring Andy Should the highball classics consistently in anything classic. The menu itself is based on Latta who now runs the bar at MINT JULEP perform then the team knows to draw inspiration 9 Bulleit bouron, sugar, mint & bitters a very classic concept and stands out as one of Tigerlily. Andy meanwhile, is an from this family of classics when creating our favourite menus of all time. emerging star of Edinburgh and CAIPIROSKA something new. 9 indeed potentially a future star of Ketel One Citreon vodka, lime & sugar the world cocktail scene, so he seemed like the perfect person to QUEENS PARK SWIZZLE 8.5 provide some insights into putting Appleton Rare Blend rum, lime juice, Falernum, demerara, mint & bitters classics on the menu. 28 29
CLASSIC COCKTAILS ON THE MENU: EDINBURGH ON THE MENU: EDINBURGH CLASSIC COCKTAILS The response to the menu has We start the menu with simple been really positive, people like highballs because opening with an how it’s laid out into sections. accessible drink always helps, no We’ve found customers can one likes to feel stupid reading find what they are looking a menu with ingredients they’ve ANDY’S ESSENTIAL for, regardless of whether they never heard of, the simplicity of a CLASSICS LIST: are seasoned cocktail drinkers highball provides a perfect starting or complete newcomers who have point. If customers are familiar with never picked up a menu before. almost every element of these MY FAVOURITE CLASSIC GOES BACK TO RUM AND IS THE PIÑA COLADA, Customers in general have a better drinks they are more likely to try BUT HERE’S A LIST OF CLASSICS EVERYONE SHOULD KNOW: base of knowledge than ever something new. ANDY before, because cocktail culture has had such a huge resurgence LATTA in recent years. While our SOURS – WHISKY SOUR customers are interested in classic OLD FASHIONED – OLD FASHIONED Learning the classics cocktails they are also hugely gives everyone the same interested in our originals as they MARTINI – MARTINI foundation to work from. allow people to try something new Classics also give you a starting that they can only get in Tigerlily. HIGHBALL – TOM COLLINS point when you are training new bartenders. Once you get the FIX – MOJITO fundamentals down it gives you a greater understanding of PUNCH – FISH HOUSE PUNCH how different flavours and ingredients work together. The first cocktail I ever made was a Treacle. I am a big fan of Rum and one of my friends wanted to introduce me to cocktails so Then we run the “House originals”, In terms of the information we put If you’re reading this trying to showed me how to make one, and these are important because it onto our menu, that has also been create your own classics, I this learning about all the classics allows us to showcase what we given plenty of consideration. We suggest you find a combination has subsequently helped inspire are doing as a bar. Although are a high-volume bar that sells of flavours you like and build other drinks. For example, one classics are very important to lots of cocktails every week and it from there. After that it’s all of our cocktails at Tigerlilly is the our menu we wanted to lead because of that we wanted to about ensuring it reads well Eastside Iris, which is just a simple with the concepts that make us give customers all the information on a menu and making sure it twist on a classic Eastside that we different to everyone else. they needed in the simplest way, is presented in a unique and added egg white to and paired with by doing this we can maximise interesting way. For example, the Hendricks, which works well with Then we’re into classics. It’s efficiency. We find it’s not really addition of ginger and a peated the flavour profile for the drink. important to keep an eye on these necessary to explain every detail whisky to the classic whisky sour drinks, even though classics have in Tigerlily, because the menu is completely changes the drink into The Bramble is our best seller, it endured. So, there are variations already broken down into different something that is unmistakably sells so well because we have been of Manhattans that don’t seem sections. This means people see a penicillin. experiencing a huge gin boom in to sell as well on our menu at the drinks they are familiar with which recent years and with the drink moment. I think this is maybe gives them an understanding for being a simple fix with fruit flavours because classics go in waves of most of the other serves. If they its accessible to most palates. popularity and Old Fashioneds are are interested in specifics we find what most people are drinking just they are quick to ask because But the main aim of the menu now – they’re looking for something they already have that basic was to break down what can be stirred down and boozy. Also flips understanding of drinks in that a challenging/ intimidating list of have never taken off as people category. And we don’t price drinks in a way that was easily get put off by the idea of a whole classics or originals any differently. approachable. It paired some egg. But you keep learning as you For us it is important to keep lesser known classics with drinks go and adapt. price consistency through our people are familiar with, to give whole menu. them an ability to try some new things but in a way that they would know what they can expect. 30 31
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