THE DACHSHUND THE DACHSHUND CLUB OF AMERICA HANDBOOK ON
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THE DACHSHUND CLUB OF AMERICA
HANDBOOK ON
THE DACHSHUND
PREFACE
This booklet is made possible by combining the previous work done for
DCA by Dee Hutchinson’s “The Dachshund Club of America, Inc.
Handbook” and Judy Goulder’s, “The Dachshund”.
This booklet is for the novice Dachshund owner to use as a guide, to
assist in general care, grooming, training, and to keep your dog happy
and healthy for many years. Your dog’s breeder, or a knowledgeable
breeder in your area, should be able to provide more detailed grooming
and training techniques and information.
–1–
THE DACHSHUND CLUB OF AMERICA, INC.
The Dachshund Club of America (DCA) is one
of the oldest breed club members in the
American Kennel Club, elected to membership
in 1895. Only eight other breed clubs have
greater longevity.
In 1934, the Dachshund Club of America pre-
sented its first single breed specialty show, held in New York City. The
judge was Mrs. C. Davies Tainter and there were 204 Dachshunds
entered. Between the years 1936-1941, the DCA specialties were held at
the Morris & Essex Show in New Jersey. Since 1960, the DCA Parent
Specialty has moved around the country using a regional schedule – East
coast, West coast, Midwest, Southwest, Southeast, Northwest and
Northeast. The National Specialties have an average entry of 400 dogs.
With over 1,200 members, the Dachshund Club of America is an active,
viable organization. There are few areas of interest that DCA is not
involved or interested in.
DCA is financially supportive of medical research on behalf of the
dachshund. Many research projects are ongoing: disc disease and pro-
gressive retinal atrophy are only a couple of the areas to which DCA
has contributed both financially and with member participation in
these studies.
DCA provides bronze plaques, medallions, and gold plated pins as
prizes at Parent and Regional Specialty shows, as well as Field Trials and
Obedience Trials. DCA also recognizes the versatility of our breed by
awarding Versatility Certificates. This certificate is awarded only to dachs-
hunds that perform meritoriously in multiple areas: Conformation,
Obedience, Field, Earthdog, Agility, Rally and Canine Good Citizen.
DCA also publishes a quarterly Newsletter for its members that are also
available to the dachshund loving public through subscription. The
Newsletter provides a forum for articles, interviews, show results and
kennel advertising.
Information regarding the Dachshund Club of America, Inc can also be
found on their web site at www.dachshund-dca.org.
–2–
There are over 50 active Dachshund Regional Specialty shows across the
United States. Through our secretary or our website, www.dachshund-
dca.org, we are able to refer you to a dachshund club in your region/area.
These clubs, in turn, can refer you to reputable members who have ani-
mals available for sale or can just answer your questions on the breed.
HISTORY OF THE DACHSHUND
It is difficult to say exactly where the dachshund as a specific breed orig-
inated. There are as many different opinions as there are experts on the
breed. Traditionally, the dachshund is thought of as a German dog, since
his name translate into “badger dog”. There is little doubt that the
Germans are responsible for considerable improvement in the breed and
that they have done much to further his capabilities.
It seems reasonable to assume that dachshunds are descended from the
basset hound. Early breeders, being desirous of a smaller dog that could
“go to ground”, used a breeding program that helped the dachshund
evolve into the breed which we recognize today.
Whatever his earlier origins, it is to the Germans that we look for specif-
ic records. In 1840, there were 54 dachshunds registered in the all-breed
studbook in Germany. In 1879, the first standard for the dachshund
breed was written. It is amazing how few changes have been made in the
standard since that time.
Lieutenant Ligner, the first president of that organization, formed the
Berlin Teckelclub in 1888. The first studbook devoted solely to dachs-
hunds was published in 1890 with 394 dachshunds registered. If one
chooses, one could trace present-day pedigrees back to famous foreign
kennels whose dogs were imported into the United States: von
Lichtenstein, von Luitpoldsheim, Asbeck, Flottenberg, Lindenbuhl,
Falltor and Holtzgarten.
The first dachshunds brought into the United States were Caesar and
Minka, imported in 1887. They were the first of many. From 1887 until
the beginning of World War I, there was a steady stream of dachshund
into this country. With the advent of the war and the resulting hysteria
over anything “German”, the dachshund lost much popularity and
German breeding and breeding stock became almost non-existent.
Under the capable guidance of a few dedicated individuals, dachshund
–3–breeding was reestablished in the United States. World War II again
brought disaster to German breeders. However, by then American breed-
ers were well established and the popularity of the dachshund continued
to increase. Today, the dachshund is consistently among the top ten
most popular breed in terms of AKC registrations.
The smooth and the longhair varieties have coexisted for centuries and
were even bred back and forth [although this is not common practice
today]. The wirehair is the more recent of the varieties, produced to fill
the need for a coat resistant to more extreme conditions.
WHY A DACHSHUND?
There are 153 different breeds recognized by the
American Kennel Club. What is there about the
Dachshund that makes him so desirable? First,
it is his versatility. The dachshund comes in two
sizes (standard and miniature) and three differ-
ent coats (smooth, longhair and wirehair), so
no matter what area of the country you live,
there is a dachshund to fit your environment.
The dachshund us quite intelligent, but he does have a mind of his own.
He responds well to training, although his innate stubborn streak may
sometimes exhibit itself. If you want a challenge, train your dachshund
in obedience work.
As a sporting dog, he has an excellent nose for trailing and his disposi-
tion and conformation contribute to his skill as an underground work-
er. He is agile, persistent, and has exceptional hunting instincts. He is
particularly well adapted to working rabbits.
Around young children, the dachshund is a splendid choice. He is dedi-
cated and protective as well as affectionate and playful. His size, cleanli-
ness, and lack of “doggy” odor are characteristics that please the woman
of the house.
Dachshunds are alert watchdogs. They will loudly proclaim the
approach of any stranger. The dachshund is easy to love, but he gives
much more than he gets. He is courageous to the point of rashness. His
delightful antics will provide you with hours of pleasure.
–4–Without a doubt, the dachshund will be a clever, playful and lively addi-
tion to your family.
WHY BUY FROM A BREEDER?
Some years ago, researchers at McGill
University in Montreal found that the
home raised animals are both physically
and psychologically superior to caged
animals and have remarkably fewer
behavior problems. Therefore, a reliable
show breeder is preferable to a pet shop (or puppy mill) when searching
for your dachshund.
Pet shops and puppy mills are profit oriented. They do not consider
improving the breed and puppies are turned out on a production line
basis at the lowest possible cost. This means that the animals are caged
and minimum expenditures are made for both health care and nutrition.
Breeders, on the other hand, are dog lovers. Dachshund show breeders
strive to produce dogs that most closely approach the ideal described
in the standard. More often than not, these litters are raised in their
homes and are accustomed to a loving family life before they are ready
to go to their new homes. Breeders are happy to give a reasonable
health guarantee knowing they have given their pups the benefit of
good nutrition and necessary veterinary care. Most of the puppies pro-
duced by breeders are not destined to become show dogs but they do
possess the character, personality and body type described for the
breed. Puppies purchased from show breeders are soon welcome and
loved members of the family.
CHOOSING A PUPPY
No one can guarantee champions, for that would require the ability to
look into the future. Much of a grown dog’s good qualities, no matter
how well bred or raised before you became its owner, will disappear if
one does not continue with proper nutrition and health care.
Most potential buyers want a 6 to 8 week old puppy. Most reliable breed-
ers will not part with a puppy that young for good reasons. At 12 weeks,
the puppies are more independent, having been away from their moth-
–5–er for a longer period of time. At 12 weeks, they tend to be attentive to
training in general and ready to be house-trained. The younger puppy
cannot control himself well. The 12-week-old puppy will have had inoc-
ulations that are so important to his adult well-being. At this age, he is
ready to bond with his new owners with all the love his little body can
produce.
Decide first what size and variety you want. If there are young children
in the family, a standard might be a better choice. Do not be deterred by
the size of the puppy. The big, happy, floppy puppy may grow up to be
a coarse adult, while the smallest in the litter may turn out to be the bet-
ter dog.
Usually it is wise to choose the puppy that comes to you. The little one
that sits back in the corner may just being quiet and shy or have been
bullied by siblings. You do not want a shy puppy.
When you pick up the puppy, he should feel hard and firm in your
hands, He should have good, heavy bone. If he does not have it at three
months, he won’t have it later. He should have straight front legs and a
strong square rear. Check the puppy’s bite: the dachshund should have a
“scissors” bite in which the inside of the top teeth touch the outside of
the bottom teeth. Look for a puppy with a dark brown or black eye, the
darker the better. A light eye or light nose is not desirable. The pigmen-
tation on the nose should be black in most cases.
When you have made your choice, ask the breeder for a pedigree (it
should be a minimum of three generations) and the puppy’s AKC regis-
tration certificate. Sometimes the certificate is not yet available. In that
case, get the names of the sire and dam, their AKC registration numbers,
the litter application number and the date the litter was whelped. It is
also a good idea to get in writing what inoculations have been given and
when, as well as what the puppy has been eating. It is not wise to change
a puppy’s diet too abruptly.
Then, take your puppy home and begin a wonderful relationship!
–6–VETERINARY CARE
In addition to visits for illness and emer-
gencies, all dogs should be seen by a vet-
erinarian on a regular basis for periodic
check-ups, control of parasites and immu-
nization against all serious illness.
Almost every dog has worms at one time or another. This should not be
a bad reflection on the breeder in the case of puppies but the problem
does need to be resolved. Some worms are virtually unavoidable. Round
worms are the most common and can sometimes be seen in feces.
However, other and more dangerous worms can be present which are
only detectable with the aid of a microscope. Examinations of stool sam-
ples should be part of a program of regular veterinary care. If detected
early and treated properly, most intestinal parasites can be controlled or
eliminated without great difficulty. In many areas, heartworm, a parasite
carried by mosquito’s, is prevalent. Let your veterinarian set up a pro-
gram for prevention. Heartworm is difficult to treat, especially in older
dogs. Most worm medications are specific for one type of parasite and
not be used indiscriminately. Worm medications are toxic…enough to
kill worms while not enough to kill the dog. Follow your veterinarian’s
advice to the letter.
Fleas, ticks and other external parasites can be controlled with any num-
ber of preparations available through your veterinarian. It is no shame
for your dogs to catch fleas but there is no excuse for these parasites set-
ting up housekeeping there. Your veterinarian can recommend the best
remedy.
Before weaning, puppies get immunity to many serious diseases through
their mother’s milk. After weaning, this immunity rapidly disappears. The
breeder of the litter will provide you with all information about the puppy’s
inoculations and worming. Early inoculations only give temporary immu-
nity to disease. Follow your veterinarian’s advice on gaining permanent
immunity to canine distemper, hepatitis, and leptospirosis. This will involve
a series of vaccinations between 12 and 15 weeks of age and an annual
booster thereafter. [More recent studies indicate that annual boosters may
not be necessary in older dog. Discuss the medical routine best suited for
your pet with your veterinarian.2006] Your veterinarian will also suggest the
best time for rabies vaccination, which is also required for licensing.
–7–NUTRITION
This is such an important part of your dogs overall state of health and
contribution to his longevity, please consult with your breeder and vet-
erinarian for their guidance and recommendations.
Dogs require at least forty-three nutrients in very specific ratios for ideal
nutrition. Almost all dog foods sold today are better for your dog than
table scraps and are more economical than anything you might prepare.
Major dog food companies follow strict guidelines based on extensive
research to produce nutritionally sound products. Nutritional deficits
can be found with owners who indulge their pets with inadequate foods
or over-diligent owners who add supplements to carefully formulated
commercial diets thereby disturbing the balance. A product labeled com-
plete and balanced from a reputable manufacturer and plenty of fresh
water is the best approach to feeding your dog.
The method of feeding most widely used is the portion feeding method.
Self-feeding method may also be preferred by some owners. In either
case, follow the recommendations of the breeder when a puppy leaves
the litter for his new home. Then gradually make a transition to any
other complete and balanced food you select and the method of feeding
you prefer.
The newly weaned puppy should be fed quite moist food and it should
be served four times a day. A good rule of thumb for feeding is 1 ounce
of food per pound of body weight per day. At three months of age, the
food can be drier and crunchier and three meals per day should be suf-
ficient. The five to seven month old, or adolescent, puppy needs two
meals a day; at ten months to a year, physical maturity, one feeding a day
will do. With the self-feeding method, food at the proper consistency is
left before him at all times with plenty of clean fresh water so that he
may eat at will. This method has many advantages in that it cuts down
on preparation time, eliminated the need to meet a feeding schedule and
may even save a rug or chair leg by being reduced by the dog’s boredom.
Most animals raised with this method will not eat more than the
amount needed to meet caloric needs.
For the dog fed with the traditional portion feeding method and the dog
that cannot adjust to the self-feeding, the responsibility for monitoring
weight falls to the owner. Every dog has its own nutritional needs and
–8–one may be “roly-poly” on the same amount that might leave another a
“rack of bones”. Seldom is undernourishment a problem with the con-
scientious dog owner. There are certain stress conditions such as puppy-
hood, pregnancy and nursing, hard work and cold weather, which will
cause a nutritional need for a higher protein and greater caloric intake.
Dramatic increases in protein can lead to problems in the urinary tract.
The dietary problem that is found most often in dogs is obesity.
Although fat puppies are cute, too much weight can adversely affect nor-
mal growth and development. Obesity in the dog has been shown to
lower resistance to viral and bacterial infection, impair cardiac function,
increase susceptibility to skin conditions and is associated with repro-
ductive problems as well as shortened life span.
Watch your dog’s profile. Adjust the quantity of his rations to keep him
trim and healthy. It is much easier to fatten a thin dog than it is to slen-
derize a “fatty”. A report from Ralston Purina by Robert Mohrman of Pet
Nutrition and Care research states that a twenty percent reduction in
calorie intake will encourage a good rate of weight reduction in the
obese Dachshund depending on the severity of the condition and the
advice of your veterinarian.
Special prescription diets are available for dogs with special nutritional
needs due to kidney, heart or liver disease, obesity and even allergies.
Your veterinarian can advise you best on any special dietary needs your
dog might have.
EXERCISE
Every dog needs to exercise to maintain
good health and muscle tone. Provide
your Dachshund with an outdoor area
safely enclosed where he can move
about freely and enjoy the fresh air and
sunshine. See that he has fresh water
and a shelter where he can get out of the
sun or wind. Most Dachshunds are
hardy and can go out in all weather. However, your dog should not be
made to stay out in extreme cold or heat. Your Dachshund should have
some controlled exercise on a leash as well. A good working trot to see
new places and people will benefit him both mentally and physically as
well as offering some benefits to the person on the other end of the leash.
–9–KENNELING AND THE CRATE METHOD OF HOUSEKEEPING
Every dog should have a place of his own where he can retreat for undis-
turbed rest while feeling safe and secure. This is especially important for
the new puppy. An airline create or folding metal rate will feel this need
nicely and, in addition, will give you a nice useful tool in housetraining.
There are those who feel crating a dog is cruel. On the contrary, any dog
will seek a secluded and protected nook for his place of rest. You will be
doing your puppy a favor by providing him with a place where he can
feel snug and safe.
To housebreak your dog effectively you must follow a routine for at least
two weeks. Before you retire in the evening, take your puppy out and
turn him loose in his exercise yard. He will feel less restricted off leash.
If he does his duties, praise him and return him to his crate indoors. His
natural instincts will tell him to keep is quarters clean. The very first
thing in the morning, carry him to his exercise yard. He should respond
quickly since he has held it all night. More praise and back indoors for
free run of the room where you will be - -not the whole house. Enjoy
each other’s company for a while and then give him breakfast. As soon
as his last bite is gone, take him outside again. Again, praise for the right
behavior and return him indoors to his crate for a couple of hours while
you go about your usual routine. Towards noon, take him out of the
crate and back to the exercise yard. More praise and in the house for
some freedom in the room where you will be then back to his crate for
awhile. The same routine is repeated for his noon meal and supper.
Remember, put him outside as soon as he has finished the last mouth-
ful. Give him free run of the room where you are during the evening with
a quick trip out at 8:30pm or so and again just before bed.
Preventing your pup from doing his duties indoors and praising his
relieving himself outside, good habits will be fairly firm in a couple of
weeks. As you feel these habits are more and more firmly established,
allow your pup longer periods of freedom and introduce him to other
rooms. Should he have an accident during these periods of freedom, a
loud “NO!” followed by a quick and unceremonious trip to the exercise
yard will refresh his memory.
You will probably, after a few days, notice that your pup retreats to his
crate on his own during periods of freedom. Great! A dog who will stay
– 10 –happily in his create on his own during the night and when the owners
are away gets into far less mischief, is much easier to take traveling and
will certainly be more welcome at hotels and motels.
airline approved – hard plastic wire – folding/collapsible soft-side / collapsible
TOYS FOR CHEWING
Puppies need something to chew while cutting teeth. Older dogs also
need something to chew for aid in teeth cleaning and sometimes to
relieve or prevent boredom. In order ro prevent the destruction of furni-
ture, rugs and other possessions, you must provide your dog with some-
thing suitable on which he can chew.
The first thought is bones. Six-inch lengths of round beef shin bones are
the only safe natural bones since all others can be broken or splintered
and swallowed. Sharp pieces may pierce the intestine, cause blockage
and upset digestion and, if not detected early, may even cause death.
Plastic and rubber toys are easily reduced to pieces by most puppies and
dogs. If swallowed, these pieces can be as lethal as breakable bones.
There are, however, rubber toys which as virtually indestructible. Please
be sure to check the labels and consumer reports. Also available in pet
supply stores are chewable products by NYLABONE, which will not
splinter or break. It is claimed that any nylon fibers, if swallowed, break
down easily by stomach secretions.
Rawhide chew toys are among the safer of the chew toys. Certainly they
are preferable to an old shoe which may have nails and eyelets which can
be swallowed. However, there have been reports of dogs strangling on
bits of rawhide which become lodged in the throat.
Dog biscuits are probably the safest thing for dogs to chew but they are
bound to disappear with amazing speed. Too many biscuits could dis-
rupt a carefully balanced diet. In short, you will have to settle on the
– 11 –item about which you feel best, the least of the evils, when choosing
your dog’s chew toy.
GROOMING
Before attempting the specialized grooming, which will enhance the
characteristics of the variety of Dachshund(s) you own, there are basic
grooming steps which need to be taken.
Brushing and Combing:
Before you attempt to bathe, scissor or trim your Dachshund it is essen-
tial that you completely brush or comb the coat. This stimulates the flow
of the natural coat oils and removes any tangles, which may be in the
coat of the Longhair or the Wirehair. It also removes any dead hairs prior
to bathing. For the Longhairs and Wirehairs, pay particular attention to
the heavily coated areas. Regular brushing encourages a healthy coat.
comb flea comb slicker brush
Teeth:
You can keep your dog’s teeth clean by using a
mixture of equal parts baking soda and salt. There
are also tooth paste/cleaner for dogs available
through pet supply vendors. Moisten a corner of a
terry wash cloth (or use a tooth brush designed for
canine application), dip into mixture and rub on
each tooth. This will help keep plaque and tartar
from building up and causing discoloration
tooth scaler
and/or premature loss of teeth.
If tartar (hardened yellowish-brownish material) does become evident
on your dog’s teeth, you can use a dental scaler to remove the tartar in
much the same way as your dentist does. Scalers are available from most
of the large animal supply places. To use the scaler, place it parallel to the
– 12 –tooth on which you are working and at the edge of the gum line. For the
upper teeth, draw the scaler down from the gum line to the tip of the
tooth, using firm pressure. For the lower teeth, draw the scaler up from
the gum line to the tip of the tooth. Once all the teeth have been scaled
in this manner, use the baking soda and salt mixture to remove any tiny
bit of matter that you may have missed. (Take care to not cut the gums
with the scaler. If you feel unsure or, uncomfortable performing this task,
most veterinary offices offer this service.)
Ears:
Dog’s ears need to be cleaned on a regular basis, Remember, they are sen-
sitive, so you should not probe too deeply, or you may cause injury. A
cotton tipped swab dipped in Baby Oil does a nice job on the ears. Make
sure you use the swab gently.
Anal glands:
(*Note: In addition to these instructions, ask your veterinarian to show
you the correct approach the first time, as you may cause extreme pain
or injury if not done correctly)
These glands are located in either side of the rectal opening and secrete
fluid, which aids the dog in moving his bowels. Sometimes the anal
fluid builds up and hardens to the point where impaction and/or
abscess occur. This can be very painful for the animal, and will require
veterinary attention. To help avoid this situation, you should periodical-
ly empty these glands. The frequency will depend on how quickly mat-
ter builds up. When the anal glands are full you can actually feel the
semi-hard sacs on wither side of the rectum. The contents of the anal
gland have a very vile odor, so it is best to empty them immediately
before bathing the dog, or have soap and water solution available to
sponge bathe the rectal area as you empty the glands.
To empty the glands, stand the dog on a firm surface with his hindquar-
ters toward you. Grasp the dog’s tail with one hand and hold it up. With
the other hand place a piece of cotton, gauze pad, or several tissues over
the rectal area and, with your thumb and forefinger, press slightly inward
(towards the dog’s body) on either side of the rectal opening. Gradually
squeeze your fingers together toward the rectal opening and outward,
away from the dog’s body. Repeat this procedure until no more fluid is
expressed. *
– 13 –Nails:
It is important to keep your dog’s nails short, both for his comfort, and
to prevent his feet from splaying which allows debris and stones to catch
between his pads. The Dachshund has a compact foot designed for cross-
ing tough terrain while in pursuit of game. To help keep the foot this
way, short nails are a necessity. From the standpoint of the house pet,
short nails do not scratch your furniture, catch on clothing, rugs, bed-
ding or upholstery. The easiest nail clipper to use is a RESCO NAIL CLIP-
PER. This is a guillotine-type blade instrument available at most pet sup-
ply places. Most people are afraid to cut the dog’s nails for fear of mak-
ing the dog bleed. Powdered nail clotting material is also available from
most pet supply dealers. (Have your breeder or veterinarian demonstrate
the best length and technique if this is your first time.)
trim the pointed tip guillotine style plier style grinder
The dog’s nail has a very broad base and then a definite point where the
nail suddenly begins to taper. It is at this point that the nail should be
cut. If you do cut the nail too short and it begins to bleed, take a pinch
of the powdered nail clotting material and press it on the end of the nail.
This powder is an coagulant and will stop bleeding quickly. The freshly
cut edges of the nails can be smoothed with a nail file. Some breeders
will use small handheld grinders instead of tail trimmers. This enables
them to grind the nail short and smooth. It may take a few sessions for
the dog to become accustomed to the noise and vibration but leaves a
nicely groomed appearance to the nails and feet.
Bathing:
Place a rubber mat in the bottom of the bathtub or sink to provide sure
footing for the dog. Place a drop of mineral oil in each eye to protect
against the possibility of irritation should you accidentally get shampoo
in the eyes. A spray hose attachment facilitates wetting and rinsing the
dog; a sponge or wash cloth will allow you to wash the head, ears and
muzzle without getting shampoo in the eyes.
– 14 –Select a good quality shampoo to use. Wet the dog’s coat with tepid
water, apply the shampoo and work into a rich lather. The dog will enjoy
a brisk massage with the shampoo and it is good for his coat and skin.
Rinse and shampoo again. Be sure to rinse the dog thoroughly since any
shampoo residue will cause dryness, flaking and itching. Towel dry the
dog, or you may use a hair dryer set on the lowest setting to complete the
drying process.
Special Bathing Procedure:
For dry/flaking skin; apply baby oil or bath oil (or breeder recommend-
ed product) and brush it into the coat thoroughly. Leave this on for a few
hours, then bathe the dog as usual. Dry or brittle coat on the Longhair
Dachshund; use the same procedure as outlined above, but follow the
bath with a good quality crème rinse. Leave the crème rinse on the coat
for 2 to 3 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
SHOW GROOMING OF THE
LONGHAIR DACHSHUND
Curly, wavy or fly-away coat of
the hair on the back of the front
legs should be combed toward
the back of the body. If the coat is
too profuse and tends to protrude to the sides, use thinning shears until
the coat does comb back. It is also helpful to frequently dampen this
hair and comb it back in order to train the hair growth.
The hair on the back of the thighs should also be long and full, but not
protruding outward to the side of the legs. Use the thinning shears to
blend this coat into the upper thigh area.
Feet:
Cut the hair on the bottom of the feet even with the pads. With the foot
placed securely on a firm surface, trim the foot with a straight scissor.
The desired look is a rounded, compact foot. You may have to scissor the
top of the foot in the area of the nails to remove wispy hairs which stick
up over the nails. Do not cut the hair in an outline around the nails;
rather, cut so as to blend this hair into a fully coated rounded appear-
ance.
– 15 –Tail:
The coat of the Longhair Dachshund should reach its greatest length on
the underside of the tail. Therefore, little is done to the tail other than
combing and brushing to maintain its condition.
PET GROOMING OF THE LONGHAIR DACHSHUND
Combing the back of the neck and body with a MAGNET STRIPPING
BLADE on a regular basis will remove dead hair and undercoat and keep
the coat in good condition. Scissor the hair on the bottom of the feet
even with the pads to keep dirt and debris from accumulating. Use a
thinning shear to shorten the hair on the sides of the neck where the coat
growth from the back of the neck joins the front of the neck.
Regular, but not frequent, bathing followed by a crème rinse and lots of
brushing will keep the coat in good, shining condition.
comb curved edge straight-edge straight-edge thinning shears
blunted tip pointed tip
SHOW GROOMING OF THE
SMOOTH DACHSHUND
The Smooth (short haired)
Dachshund has a short, thick,
shiny coat. Very little grooming is
required in order to show this
variety.
Head:
Use a straight shear with rounded tips to cut the whiskers on the muzzle
(optional), over the eyes, on the cheeks, and on the underside of the jaw.
These whiskers should be cut very close to the skin.
– 16 –Neck:
If the dog has a particularly thick coat, you may have to scissor the stray
hairs on both sides of the neck where the coat growth from the back of
the neck joins the growth from the front. You may also have to trim the
wispy hairs that may protrude at the point of the breastbone. This may
be done with either straight edge scissors or thinning shears. Cut slow-
ly and carefully so that you do not leave a bare spot or sharp line where
you have scissored.
Tail:
If the hair on the underside of the tail is thick and unkempt looking trim
with scissors or thinning shears to give a sleek tapered look.
Feet:
Trim any hair that may protrude on the underside of the feet so that the
hair is even with the pads.
A light spray of coat dressing oil, or a small amount of baby oil rubbed
on your hands and then applied to the coat, will add luster and sheen to
the coat.
PET GROOMING OF THE SMOOTH DACHSHUND
The Smooth Dachshund who is not being shown requires practically no
grooming to be the ideal house pet. He should be bathed occasionally
and brushed often to keep the skin healthy and the coat glowing.
SHOW GROOMING THE
WIREHAIRED DACHSHUND
According to the Breed Standard
for Dachshunds, “With the
exception of the jaw, eyebrows,
and ears, the whole body is cov-
ered with a perfectly uniform, tight, short, thick, rough, hard coat, but
with finer shorter hairs (undercoat) everywhere distributed between the
coarser hairs”, resembling the coat of the German Wirehaired Pointer.
There should be a beard on the chin. The eyebrows are bushy, on the ears
the hair is shorter than on the body, but in any case conforming to the
rest of the coat. The general arrangement of the hair should be such that
– 17 –the Wirehaired Dachshund, when seen from a distance should resemble
the smooth haired.
In grooming the Wirehaired Dachshund, you are attempting to enhance
the Dachshund shape of the body and emphasize the wire characteristics.
There are basically two methods of grooming the Wirehaired
Dachshund ~ plucking and stripping, or a combination of both.
Plucking consists of using the thumb and index finger to pull out the
longer coat hairs. Stripping is done with a “stripping” knife. There are
many types of stripping knives available. You must find the one most
comfortable for you to use. Stripping is done by placing the knife against
the coat, catching a small amount of hair against the blade with your
thumb and pulling the longer hairs out of the coat. With either method,
small amounts of hair should be done at a time and the hair should be
pulled in the direction of coat growth with quick jerking motion. Never
pluck or strip the hair against the direction of coat growth.
When you plan to remove a great deal of the coat, referred to as “taking
the coat down”, you should do the major work eight to twelve weeks
before the date of the show. The rate of coat growth differs from dog to
dog, so you might have to experiment to determine the best time sched-
ule for your dog.
Once you get the coat in show condition, you can maintain it by strip-
ping or plucking the longer hairs on a weekly basis. This removes any
dead hair and allows for constant new growth of hair. This method is
called “rotation of the coat”.
Head:
The head should be stripped or plucked from just behind the eyebrows,
over the top of the skull and down into the neck area, between the eyes,
and the cheek area from the outer corner of the eye to the corner of the
lip. Stray hairs at the inner corner of the eye should be removed and the
eyebrows should be longer at the inside corner of the eye tapering to the
outside corner of the eye where they are flush with the skull structure.
The eyebrows should be short enough to allow the eyes to be readily
seen.
Since the overall head structure should be uniformly tapered, it may be
necessary to thin out the beard to achieve this look. It is also possible to
– 18 –remove some of the coat from the center of the under jaw to allow the
beard to lie closer against the muzzle.
Since the overall head structure should be uniformly tapered, it may be
necessary to thin out the beard to achieve this look. It is also possible to
remove some of the coat from the center of the under jaw to allow the
beard to lie closer against the muzzle.
Ears:
Remove all the longer hairs from the outside and underside of the ear.
This will leave a very short undercoat on the ear. Usually this hair has to
be removed only once or twice; it does not tend to grow back. The hair
on the inside of the ear where the ear joins the cheek should be scissored
very close to the skin to allow the ear to lie flat against the cheek.
Neck:
The longer hairs on the neck should be stripped or plucked under the
chin and down the throat to the breast bone, along the sides of the neck;
and on the back of the neck, blending into the shoulder area.
Body:
The body coat is kept a little longer that the head and neck ~ about ? to
? inches long. Stripping or plucking should be done from the neck area
along the topline and sides to the tail. The underside of the body should
be plucked or stripped to conform to the rest of the body. Do not leave
great length of coat here is it will look like a skirt. If the dog does not
have a deep chest, groom the coat on the underside of the body so that
the chest area is slightly longer, and taper it up into the loin area.
Tail:
The tail should be plucked or stripped to give an even tapered look.
Since the underside of the tail may be sensitive, you may wish to use
thinning shears on this area. When using any type of scissor always cut
with the growth of the hair, never against it. Be sure to cut the hairs
around the anus for a neat appearance, which conform with the rest of
the grooming.
Legs:
The hair on the legs should conform to the body coat, but may be just a
little longer, Judicious plucking or stripping of the longer hairs should
be done to enhance the full wire coat growth.
– 19 –Feet:
Use straight scissors to trim the hair on the bottom of the feet even with
the pads. With the foot place securely on a flat surface, use a straight edge
scissor to trim the hair around the foot. The desired effect is one of a
rounded, compact foot.
PET GROOMING OF THE WIREHAIR DACHSHUND
You can achieve the same result in the appearance of the dog by using a
clipper. However, in most instances, you will not be able to maintain the
harsh texture of the coat with this method. Clippering is a time saving
method of keeping the dog neat while general conforming to the desired
look of the Wirehaired Dachshund.
Follow the same pattern of grooming as outlined above using the follow-
ing blades:
HEAD, UNDERSIDE OF THE NECK and EARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .#10
BACK OF THE NECK, BODY and TAIL . . . . .#5 (leaves hair 1/2” long)
Or #7 (leaves hair 1/4” long)
EYEBROWS and BEARD . .Scissor these to the desired shape and length
stripping tool
TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED YOUR DACHSHUND
This decision demands a great deal of thought. Aside from the fact that
having a litter will not make “Gretchen” a better dog and that accurate
bookkeeping on the cost of a litter will reveal a deficit rather than
enough profit to put the kids through college, the outstanding fact
remains that the world does not need more dogs. Reports estimate that
annually more than twenty million pets are euthanized for reasons that
are not medical. Most of these were produced by the “casual breeder”, if
you will, or the non-responsible pet owner. Will your litter contribute to
the problem of the burgeoning numbers of unwanted pets? Will your lit-
ter be a credit to the breed? The world does not need more dogs and the
– 20 –Dachshund fancy only needs better Dachshunds. The mating of pure-
bred dogs should be aimed towards producing improved quality in both
temperament and body structure. It should also be based on a thorough
knowledge of the breed and the principles of sound breeding. If these
factors are not present then the breeding should not be carried out.
SO YOU WANT TO SHOW DOGS
Because they are fewer in number, show quality Dachshund are likely to
cost more. Breeders are sometimes even reluctant to part with show
prospects in an outright sale and may offer co-ownerships or other
breeder’s terms. A true show prospect could be vital to the breeding pro-
gram the breeder has planned.
Once you have acquired your Dachshund with show potential, you can
be sure that the breeder will be helpful in getting you both into the ring.
Match shows are a good place to start for both you and your dog. Your
local kennel club probably sponsors at least one match a year, as well as
one point show. In addition to kennel clubs for all purebred dogs, there
are breed clubs specializing in single breeds. To find the kennel clubs
and Dachshund Clubs near you, contact the American Kennel Club, 260
Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10010, www.akc.org on the inter-
net or through the DCA web site at www.dachshund-dca.org. Through
these clubs, you will surely get all the help and information you need to
begin the quest for the championship title for your Dachshund.
ENJOYING A DOG SHOW
If you are attending a dog show for the first time, you will be fascinated
with the great number and variety of dogs that you will see. After a tour
of the benches, or the show grounds, you will be drawn to the judging
rings and wonder at the activity going on there.
Here you will see a number of dogs being posed, paraded up and down
by intense handlers, checked front and back individually, then against
each other by a very serious person who is the judge. Equally serious are
the people showing off their dogs, hoping to win his/her approval and
the coveted ribbons he/she will award. Finally, the judge indicates which
dogs have won and a burst of applause may greet his/her decision. You
may wonder why the cute little dog appealed so much and you did not
win anything….and you may wonder what it is all about. If you under-
– 21 –stand what is going on, what a dog show is all about and why it is so
important to the people who exhibit, you will certainly get more enjoy-
ment out of the show. That is the purpose of this chapter, to help you
understand and enjoy a dog show.
The primary purpose of a dog show is to enable dog owners to exhibit
their dogs in competition with others of its kind. The ultimate objective
is to improve the quality of all purebred dogs. An intelligent breeding
program, using the dogs, which have proven through such competition,
to be the better representatives of their breeds, achieves this goal.
A dog show is a huge elimination contest. There are many contests tak-
ing place in every dog show. These may be the winning of blue ribbons,
the winning of championship points, the Best of Breed and Best of
Group honors and awards.
A sanctioned, or licensed, dog show is for purebred dogs only and they
must be registered or eligible for registration in the American Kennel
Club. To be accepted, the entry form must show the dog’s individual reg-
istration number (or the litter registration number until the final regis-
tration process is completed). While dog shows are sometimes referred
to as “canine beauty contests” there is much more that just the surface
beauty to be considered. In 2006, there are 153 breeds of dogs are rec-
ognized by the American Kennel Club. Each of these breeds has its own
“standard of perfection”. The judge takes account of two main factors. He
judges the dogs against the “standard” for that breed and he judges the
dogs against each other. He tries to pick those dogs which are nearest to
ideal “type”, and which are sound both physically and mentally.
The rules require that the judge personally
examine each dog. He must check their teeth,
eyes, hair coat, and must determine that the
males have both testicles normally descended
into the scrotum. If a dog is limping in the
ring, it is mandatory that the judge excuse it
from further judging. Any dog that attempts to
bite the judge will also be excused.
There are “regular classes” for each breed.
MALES ARE JUDGED SEPARATELY FROM
FEMALES IN ALL REGULAR CLASSES. The
– 22 –classes are as follow: Puppy, Novice, Bred-By-Exhibitor, American-Bred
and Open. (In dachshunds, the Open classes are divided into Open
Miniature and Open Standard.) Puppy classes are divided by age: six to
nine months and nine to twelve months. The Novice class is for dogs six
months of age or over which have not won three first prizes in Novice
class, a first in Bred-By-Exhibitor, American-bred, or Open, nor one or
more points towards their championship. The Bred-by-Exhibitor class is
for dogs which are owned by the breeder and are shown by the breeder
or a member of his/her immediate family (husband, wife, father, son,
daughter, brother, sister). The American-bred class is for all dogs except
champions whelped in the United States by reason of mating that took
place in this country. The *Open class is for any dog, six months of age
or older, that has not completed its championship. *Foreign bred dogs
must enter this class, except that Canadian-bred puppies can enter the
Puppy class. Some breeds have the Open class divided by color as well
as miniature and standard, including Dachshunds.
The winner of each class gets a blue ribbon and is then eligible to com-
pete in the Winners classes. The judge picks the best male for Winners
Dog and the best female for Winners Bitch. A dog (or bitch) which has
been beaten only by the winner of the Winners class can then come in to
compete for Reserve Winners against the remaining first prize winners.
Best of Breed competition brings together already recognized AKC cham-
pions of sexes, plus the Winners Dog and Winners Bitch. The judge then
makes his choice from this group for Best of Breed. If his selection is a
male for Best of Breed, the judge then selects a bitch for Best of Opposite
Sex. If the Winners Dog or Winners Bitch is not selected as Best of Breed,
the judge then selects either the dog or the
bitch as Best of Winners. This same procedure
takes place in every breed entered in the show.
Thus, if there were ten different Hound breeds
entered, there would be ten Best of Breed win-
ners. These ten would then be called back into
the ring to be judged against each other, to
decide which dog is the one best qualified to
represent all of the Hounds. The one placed
first, as in the other six breed groups, becomes
eligible to enter the finals for that highest of
dog show competition, Best In Show.
– 23 –The seven outstanding specimens are now paraded before the judge who
must decide on just one of them for the coveted Best Dog In Show! In
this way a show that started with 3,000 dogs ends up with one grand
champion at that event!
To become a champion, a dog must win 15 champion points. Points are
earned only by placing first in the Winners class (Winners Dog or
Winners Bitch). However, the dog chosen Best of Winners is entitled to
the higher of points won in the two sexes. Championship points are
awarded on a scale drawn up by AKC. The country is divided into four
groups, the points for each breed are figured on the basis of national reg-
istrations and previous show entries for that area. All show catalogs are
required to carry the “scale of points” for all breeds in the section of the
country where the show is held. This may vary for dogs and bitches in
the same breed. Five points is the largest number that can be won at any
show. There is one other way in which a dog can win championship
points, If a dog comes through the classes, wins Best of Breed, then wins
First in his Group, he is entitled to the maximum number of points
awarded to any other dog in that group. A check system to prevent
“cheap championships” is set by the provision that a dog must win two
shows with three points (also referred to as a Major) or more under at
least two different judges. Thus, a dog must be shown in stiff competi-
tion before it can win the coveted title of “Champion”.
It is important to note, again, the versatility of the Dachshund. Do not
forget that the Dachshund can compete in other areas such as
Obedience, Rally, Agility, Tracking, Field trial and Earth dog events.
Whether you choose to compete in conformation shows or not, these
other areas are challenging and fun. The reward of seeing your dog using
the keen hunting skills for which he/she was bred and/or demonstrate
his/her ability as a trained companion is beyond words. (If you choose
to have your dog neutered or spayed, you can still compete in these
areas.) Working with your dog in any or all of these performance events
will also result in a bond that is hard to break. Training tips and articles
are available in DCA’s booklet, “Versatility Certificate”, an award pro-
gram designed by DCA to recognize the achievements of the Dachshund.
– 24 –Tracking Obedience
Rally
Agility Earthdog
If you wish to enter a dog show, check
with one of the national dog magazines,
AKC web site (www.akc.org), DCA web
site (www.dachshund-dca.org) or DCA
Newsletter for the list of upcoming
shows. This list will give the dates of the Field
shows, the superintendent, one or more of the club officers and their
address. You then write for entry blanks and premium lists, which have
all the pertinent information on judges and prizes offered at the shows.
Lists are distributed six weeks ahead of the show date and entries closed
three weeks prior to the show. Fix to six days before the show you will
receive a receipt for your entry, which will serve as identification which
you must present for you and your dog to enter the show. If the show is
benched, stalls will be provided in which the dog(s) must be kept dur-
ing show hours. Your identification will show your stall number and the
deadline hour for getting your dog into the show. If the show in
unbenched, the dog(s) may be kept with you anywhere on the show-
grounds (there may be specific Club instructions). Your identification
slip may tell you that you may leave as soon as you are not needed any
longer.
The AKC recognizes 153 breeds, which are divided into seven groups.
They are classified, more or less, by the kind of work the dogs were
intended to perform. In addition, there is a Miscellaneous Classification
for breeds known to be purebred but which are so rare in the United
– 25 –States that no place for them has been made in the stud book. As the
breeds become more popular, the AKC may assign them to a regular
class.
BREED AND VARIETY PHOTO SECTION
Miniature - Longhair
Longhair- black and Longhair - red - miniature Longhair - chocolate and tan -
tan - miniature Dapple
Longhair Dapples - Longhair - Sable Longhair - Brindle
chocolate and tan left/right) (Note: looks black and tan but when the hair is part-
black and tan (middle) ed, base of hair shaft coloration proves this is sable)
Longhair (and a wire) -
Cream
– 26 –Standard - Longhair
➜
Longhair -
Black and Tan
➜
Longhair -
Clear Red
➜
Longhairs -
Adults and Pups
Longhair - clear red and reds
with dark overlay
Recessive Longhair
Miniature - Smooth
Smooth - Miniature -
Chocolate and Tan
Smooth - Miniature - ➜
Black and Tan Dapple Smooth Miniature -
Brindle
– 27 –Miniature - Smooth
Miniature -
Chocolate and Tan Dapple
Standard - Smooth
Red (adolescent)
➜
Standard Smooth
headpiece
➜
Black and Tan ➜
(Adult) Black and Tan
Miniature - Wire
Miniature - Wire - Red
Miniature - Wire -
Miniature - Wire - Wheaten Black and Tan
– 28 –Miniature - Wire -
Black and Tan
Standard - Wire
Wire - Pups
Standard - Wire - Standard - Wire -
Wild Boar Wild Boar
Wire puppies hunting Standard - Wire - Wild Boar
Smooth and Wire puppies playing
– 29 –Thank You
DCA wishes to thank members and others who contributed to this
booklet:
• DCA members and DCAWeb Site – breed photo contributors
and Illustrated Standard drawings
• DCSAV for show and performance photos
– 30 –Notes – 31 –
Notes – 32 –
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