Tacoma Intermediate Alpine Climbing Handbook - The Mountaineers
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Tacoma Intermediate Alpine Climbing Handbook
Tacoma Intermediate Alpine Climbing Handbook
Table of Contents
Introduction .................................................................................................................................................................. 4
Tacoma Intermediate Program .................................................................................................................................... 4
Application Process and Sign-Up .............................................................................................................................. 4
Tacoma Intermediate Program Qualifier.............................................................................................................. 4
Intermediate Student Status ................................................................................................................................ 5
The Modules ............................................................................................................................................................. 6
Intermediate Snow Skills Module (Soft Snow) ..................................................................................................... 6
Intermediate Anchors and Self-Rescue ................................................................................................................ 6
Intermediate Rock – Traditional Single and Multi-Pitch Climbing........................................................................ 7
Intermediate Glacier Travel Module .................................................................................................................... 7
Intermediate Alpine Ice Module ........................................................................................................................... 7
Module Prerequisites ............................................................................................................................................... 8
Course Flow .............................................................................................................................................................. 9
Mentors and Mentor Nights ....................................................................................................................................... 10
Intermediate Program Volunteerism Requirements .................................................................................................. 11
Community Activity and Stewardship Requirements ............................................................................................. 11
Teaching Requirements .......................................................................................................................................... 12
Climb Leadership Development Requirements ...................................................................................................... 13
Leadership Activity Requirements .......................................................................................................................... 14
Graduation .................................................................................................................................................................. 15
Graduating from Individual Intermediate Modules ............................................................................................... 15
Intermediate Snow Skills Module (Soft Snow) Pass and Graduation Requirements ......................................... 15
Intermediate Anchors and Self-Rescue Pass and Graduation Requirements .................................................... 15
Intermediate Rock Module Pass and Graduation Requirements ....................................................................... 15
Intermediate Glacier Travel Module Pass and Graduation Requirements ........................................................ 16
Intermediate Alpine Ice Module Pass and Graduation Requirements ............................................................... 16
Graduating from the Intermediate Program .......................................................................................................... 17
Climbs ......................................................................................................................................................................... 18
Basic Climbs ............................................................................................................................................................ 19
Basic Rock Trips: ................................................................................................................................................. 19
Basic Alpine Trips: ............................................................................................................................................... 19
Basic Glacier Trips: .............................................................................................................................................. 19
Crag Climbs ............................................................................................................................................................. 19
Intermediate Climbs ............................................................................................................................................... 19
Prerequisites for Participation, Summits, and Credit for Intermediate Climbs .................................................. 19
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Intermediate Mountaineering Climbs ................................................................................................................ 20
Intermediate Rock Climbs................................................................................................................................... 20
Intermediate Ice Climbs ...................................................................................................................................... 21
Climb Leader Pathways............................................................................................................................................... 22
Basic Rope Leader Status Clubwide Standard ........................................................................................................ 22
Tacoma Intermediate Committee Interpretation and Recommendations for Basic Rope Leaders ................... 22
Basic Glacier Rope Leader Requirements and Recommendations..................................................................... 22
Basic Rock Rope Lead Requirements and Recommendations ........................................................................... 22
Basic Alpine Rope Lead Requirements and Recommendations ......................................................................... 22
Becoming a Climb Leader and Maintaining Climb Leader Status ........................................................................... 23
Basic Glacier Climb Leader Requirements .......................................................................................................... 23
Basic Rock Climb Leader Requirements.............................................................................................................. 23
Basic Alpine Climb Leader Requirements ........................................................................................................... 23
Applying for Basic Climb Leader ......................................................................................................................... 23
Mentored Lead Climbs........................................................................................................................................ 24
Applying for Intermediate Climb Leader ............................................................................................................ 24
Intermediate Climb Leaders Status Review and Approval Process .................................................................... 24
Intermediate Rock Leader .................................................................................................................................. 25
Intermediate Ice Leader ..................................................................................................................................... 25
Intermediate Mountaineering Leader ................................................................................................................ 25
Tacoma Intermediate Program Policies ..................................................................................................................... 26
Climb Leader Status Policy...................................................................................................................................... 26
Course Tracking Policy ............................................................................................................................................ 26
Equivalency Policy................................................................................................................................................... 26
Failure Policy ........................................................................................................................................................... 27
Intermediate Student Status Policy ........................................................................................................................ 27
Make-Up Policy ....................................................................................................................................................... 27
Physical Fitness Policy............................................................................................................................................. 28
Refund Policy .......................................................................................................................................................... 28
Additional Information ............................................................................................................................................... 29
AIARE Level 1 and Avalanche Awareness Seminar ................................................................................................. 29
Mandatory Lecture: Teaching and Trip Planning ................................................................................................... 29
Outdoor Leadership Seminar.................................................................................................................................. 29
Private Climbs ......................................................................................................................................................... 29
Wilderness First Aid ................................................................................................................................................ 29
Winter Camping Definition and Requirements ...................................................................................................... 30
Appendix ..................................................................................................................................................................... 31
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Required and Recommended Readings ................................................................................................................. 31
The Climbing Code .................................................................................................................................................. 32
Emergency Procedures ........................................................................................................................................... 32
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Introduction
Welcome to the Tacoma Intermediate Alpine Climbing Program!
The Tacoma Intermediate Alpine Climbing Program consists of a series of modules, which allow students to
progressively develop and solidify the skills necessary for leading routes at the Intermediate level (trad rock
routes at 5.6/5.7, and/or ~55-degree snow/alpine ice). In addition to technical skills, students will develop
leadership, self-assessment, and safety awareness skills, which will enable them to lead basic-level climbs and
participate on intermediate-level climbs.
Intermediate skills can be used on thousands of routes in the Cascades, Sierras, Tetons, Canadian Rockies, and
other ranges around the world. The course provides a good foundation for continuing education to more
advanced skills such as leading long multi-pitch alpine rock routes, waterfall ice, mixed, and aid climbing. It is our
hopes that the program not only helps to enrich the lives of its students, but also of the community around them.
Tacoma Intermediate Program
In 2019 for the first time, it is possible to take the Intermediate Program as standalone course modules. Taking
individual modules allows students more time and flexibility to complete the whole program (if desired), or to
focus on specializing into either rock or snow related activities. All students will need to apply and be accepted
into the Tacoma Intermediate Program in order to take any Tacoma Intermediate modules.
Application Process and Sign-Up
The application process, to get into the Tacoma Intermediate Program, starts in the fall with filling out an
application on the course website and gaining initial acceptance. To gain initial acceptance applicants are
expected to have the following badges and experience:
Must be at least 18 years old.
Have graduated from the Basic Climbing Course or gained Basic equivalency.
Have met a minimum experience requirement (2 successful climbs with one being a basic rock or basic
glacier climb, and have at least attempted a third climb or have extensive rock leading experience).
Scrambles and alpine climbs do count towards experience, the more experience the better.
Be very comfortable scrambling on 3rdclass, 4th class, and steep-snow terrain.
Have a current navigation or equivalent badge.
Have a current WFA or equivalent badge.
Have a low-impact recreation badge
Have participated in volunteer activities with The Mountaineers or other non-profit organizations.
Once granted initial acceptance, applicants will be required to pay the $50 (non-refundable) Qualifier Fee and will
be given the opportunity to participate in the Tacoma Intermediate Program Qualifier.
Tacoma Intermediate Program Qualifier
The Tacoma Intermediate Program Qualifier is a 2 day test of an applicant’s physical fitness and knowledge of the
Tacoma Basic Climbing skills. During the test applicants must show complete comprehension of the Critical and
Essential skills learned in the Tacoma Basic Climbing Course, and show adequate physical conditioning by
completing a hike of Mount Si, to the bottom of the haystack, in under 2 hours with a 35lb pack. If you pass the
Qualifier, you will gain Tacoma Intermediate Student status and acceptance into the Tacoma Intermediate
Program.
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Intermediate Student Status
Tacoma Intermediate Student status means that you have been give an Intermediate Student Badge on your
Mountaineers profile. This badge allows students to take any of the Tacoma Intermediate Program modules, to
sign-up as an instructor at any of the Tacoma Basic field trips (assuming there is capacity), to sign-up for
Intermediate-level climbs, and access to both basic and advanced climbing seminars. Please make sure to read
the Intermediate Student Status policy to understand badge expiration dates and continuation requirements.
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The Modules
The Tacoma Intermediate Program consists of five modules, which can be taken individually, but only by Tacoma
Intermediate Students at this time. Each module has its own cost, prerequisites, pass criteria (including a technical
and written exam), and graduation requirements. A students does not have to take every module this year,
however they will potentially have to retest into the Program every two years to maintain their Intermediate
student status. It is also important to note that some modules are prerequisites to other modules, and students
will be required to meet the prerequisites of each module before they will be allowed to sign-up and participate.
Intermediate Snow Skills Module (Soft Snow)
The Intermediate Snow Skills module builds on a student’s knowledge of Basic Climbing Course skills, and teaches
them to be competent rope leads on Basic Glacier climbs. It also provides the foundation for the Intermediate
Glacier Travel Module. Topics covered include: camping in emergency snow shelters, snow/glacier travel, snow
anchors, snow belays, basic hauling systems, and introduces 2-person glacier travel and 6:1 hauling systems.
Required Reading:
Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th Edition, Chapter 3, 16, 17, 18, and 27
Handouts and the Manual
Recommended Reading:
Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain, 2nd edition, Bruce Tremper, ISBN 1594850844
Snow Sense, J. Fredston and D. Fester, ISBN 0964399407
Prerequisites:
1. Tacoma Intermediate Program Student
2. If new to the program, you must be signed up and teach at one of the following basic field trips: FT1
Prep, FT1 or FT2. If you are not new to the program: you must be caught up with all other module
teaching requirements and/or ahead by 1 credit, or signed up to teach at one of the above field trips.
Intermediate Anchors and Self-Rescue
The Intermediate Anchors & Self-Rescue module teaches the basics of anchor building and equalization (not
including placing protection), rescuing a follower (counterweight rappels), various other techniques (saddle bags
and tandem rappels), and a refresher on crag lead-climbing with bolted protection. It prepares students for the
Intermediate Rock, Glacier Travel, and Alpine Ice modules.
Required Reading:
Self-Rescue, 2nd edition, David Fasulo, ISBN 0762755334
Climbing Anchors, 2nd edition, John Long and Bob Gaines, ISBN 0762723262
Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition
Part II Climbing Fundamentals
Part V. Leadership, Safety, and Rescue
Handouts and the Manual
Recommended Reading:
High Angle Rescue Techniques. Tom Vines and Steve Hudson, ISBN 0323019145
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, any edition
Prerequisites:
1. Tacoma Intermediate Program Student
2. If new to the program, you must be signed up and teach at one of the following Basic field trips: FT1
Prep, FT1 or FT2. If you are not new to the program: you must be caught up with all other module
teaching requirements and/or ahead by 1 credit or signed up to teach at one of the above field trips.
3. Supply a lead-belay card from a climbing gym or have passed the sport climbing course.
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Intermediate Rock – Traditional Single and Multi-Pitch Climbing
The Intermediate Rock module teaches fundamental trad climbing skills. It starts in a single pitch setting where
students practice placing protection and leading on gear, and then progresses to building gear anchors and
swinging leads in a multi-pitch setting. This module prepares students to be rope leaders on Basic-level rock
climbs and partners on Intermediate-level rock climbs.
Required Reading:
Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition, Part III. Rock Climbing
Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, 2nd Edition, Craig Luebben, ISBN 978-1-59485-862-8
Handouts and the Manual
Recommended Reading:
How to Rock Climb, 5th Edition, John Long, ISBN 0762755342
Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide, Craig Leubben, ISBN 1594850062
Single-Pitch Prerequisites:
1. Tacoma Intermediate Program Student
2. Lead on sport at 5.7/5.8 or harder routes
3. Have accumulated a minimum of 3 teaching credits and be in good standing with the Intermediate
Committee
4. Have attended an Avalanche Awareness Seminar or have an AIARE 1 certificate
Multi-Pitch Prerequisites:
1. Tacoma Intermediate Program Student
2. Pass Single-Pitch
Intermediate Glacier Travel Module
Intermediate Glacier Travel module teaches the fundamentals of climbing on 40-70 degree hard snow and alpine
ice. Topics include ascending and descending hard-snow routes, building and equalizing snow anchors, and two-
person glacier travel and rescue techniques. This module prepares students to be Basic Glacier climb leaders and
provides a foundation for the Intermediate Alpine Ice module.
Required Reading:
Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 9th edition, Part IV. Snow, Ice, and Alpine Climbing
Prerequisites:
1. Tacoma Intermediate Program Student
2. Lead on sport at 5.6/5.7 or harder routes
3. Have accumulated a minimum of 4 unique teaching credits (be in good standing with the Intermediate
Committee).
Intermediate Alpine Ice Module
The Intermediate Alpine Ice Module teaches the fundamentals of alpine ice climbing. Topics include building ice
anchors, ascending descending ice route, and swapping leads on 40-70 degree alpine ice. This module prepares
students to be partners on Intermediate alpine ice climbs.
Required Reading:
Alpine Ice: Jeff Lowe’s Climbing Techniques Video, Jeff Lowe
Ice and Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique, Will Gladd, ISBN 089886769X
Prerequisites:
1. Pass the Intermediate Glacier Travel Module
2. Be in good standing with the Intermediate Committee
NOTE: The Intermediate Committee has final ruling on all Prerequisites, pass requirements and graduation
requirements, these requirements can be updated by the Committee at any time.
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Module Prerequisites
Successful completion of specific Intermediate modules is a prerequisite for participation in subsequent
modules, participation in Basic Climbs, and participation in Intermediate Climbs. The order in which the modules
need to be taken is not random. The following matrix depicts the Intermediate modules that must be completed
prior to participation in these other activities.
Anchors &
Snow Sport Glacier
X = Required Current Avy Leadership S. Rescue Rock Alpine Ice
AIARE 1 Skills Climbing Travel
(X) = Recommended WFA Awareness Seminar
Module Course
Module Module
Module
Module
Snow Track
Int. Snow Skills (Soft X X
Snow) Module
Rope Lead Basic Glacier X X (X) X X (X) (X)
Rock Track
Anchors & Self-Rescue X (X)
Module
Rock Module X X
Rope Lead Basic Rock X (X) (X) (X) X X
Basic Rock Climb Leader X X X (X) X X (X)
Participate in Int. X X (X) (X) X X (x)
Rock Climbs
Alpine Track
Basic Rope Lead Alpine X X (X) X X (X) (X (X)
Participate in Int. X X X X X X X X
Mountaineering
Ice Track
Anchors & Self-Rescue X (X)
Module
Int. Glacier Travel (Hard X X X X
Snow) Module
Alpine Ice Module X X X X X
Basic Glacier X X (X) X X (X) X
Climb Leader
Participate in X X X X X (X) X X
Alpine Ice Climbs
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Course Flow
The following diagram is a different representation of the same information under Module Prerequisites.
Intermediate Course Structure Application
Key:
Course outside of
Intermediate Intermediate Course
Skills Qualifier Test
Part of the Passed?
Intermediate
Program Yes
!!
Intro Lecture:
Goal you would
Teaching and Trip
like to attain
Planning
Intermediate Snow Anchors &
Skills Module Self-Rescue Module
Intermediate Glacier
Travel Module Intermediate Rock:
Avalanche Single and Multi-pitch
Awareness Climbing
AIARE
Seminar
Level 1
Intermediate Alpine
Ice Module Leadership
Seminar
Able to go on Able to go on
Intermediate Ice Basic Glacier Basic Rock Intermediate Rock
climbs* Rope Leader Rope Leader Climbs*
* Even though you are able to sign-up for Intermediate climbs, you are expected to only choose
routes and climbs that are safely within your abilities.
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Mentors and Mentor Nights
Students are encouraged to seek out mentors. This is a great way for students to not only solidify their skills, but
to have a more experienced member of the community show them various other tips and tricks (which are
typically only learned through necessity or experience). If a student is unsure of whom might be able to be a
mentor, they should first attend a mentor night, and then reach out to the Intermediate Committee.
Intermediate mentor nights have been set up for each module to provide students with a dedicated evening to
work with instructors and practice skills. The evenings are not meant to be structured; it is up to the student to
utilize the time as they see fit. For example, mentor nights could be utilized as a one-on-one mentoring
opportunity by some students, or as a more open-forum practice space for those more confident in their skills.
Mentor nights are not a mandatory requirement. However, students should keep in mind participation does
provide an additional channel to meet more experienced peers and other climb leaders. In addition, it allows for
people to solicit feedback on a student’s progress and capabilities, which is invaluable when awarding climb
leader status and when selecting rope leaders from the pool of students.
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Intermediate Program Volunteerism Requirements
Intermediate students are the life-blood of the Tacoma Climbing community. As so, the Intermediate Committee
believes it is important to give back, not only to our courses, but to our communities and land as well. Therefore,
we find it necessary for an Intermediate student to have additional volunteer service either with a non-profit
organization doing trail work and/or to help other Tacoma activities be successful.
Community Activity and Stewardship Requirements
Community activities are activities that benefit the Tacoma Mountaineers greater community. These activities
typically include instructing at other activities (ex Scrambles, Navigation, Sport Climbing, etc.) field trips.
Acceptable community activities vary by module, and can be identified using the table below.
Stewardship activities are conservation-related activities. The goal is to make a positive contribution in an area
where there is great need, and to spark an awareness and interest in conservation. The types of work parties are
pretty open-ended; trail maintenance, work in local, state, and national parks, wilderness areas, etc. are
acceptable stewardship activities. One important point is that these activities are coordinated with the managers
of the sites where the work parties will take place, and that there will be a site representative on hand to identify
the tasks and provide any how-to instructions. Washington Trails Association holds trail maintenance activities
year-round.
Guidelines for Community and Stewardship Activity Credit:
Community activities must benefit the Tacoma Mountaineers climbing community.
Students are responsible for being signed up for the activity on the Mountaineers website
Students must provide documentation of participating in a stewardship activity if done outside of the
Mountaineers.
You can double-dip:
o You can receive teaching credit for instructing at a field trip of another activity.
o You can instruct at a winter camping field trip and satisfy a winter overnight experience (for the
snow skills and ice modules).
o You can use your community activity to help you gain leader status in another activity (ex – it is
typically a requirement to help at a snowshoe or scrambles field trip to gain snowshoe or
scrambles equivalency, which then only requires a mentored snowshoe or scrambles lead to get
leader status and satisfy a leadership requirement too).
In order to teach at another activity’s (ex. Scrambles, snowshoe, navigation, etc) field trip, you must reach
out to the leader to understand:
A. If they want/need your help.
B. Skills you are expected to know and teach, and any other actions expected of you. If you do not
understand and/or cannot teach the material, let the leader know and choose a different activity.
C. If you are deemed unhelpful or disrespectful, you will not receive credit for the activity.
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Tacoma Community Activities by Module
Activity Snow Skills Anchors & Rescue Rock Glacier Ice
Stewardship activity through The Mountaineer's X x x X x
or another organization (ex WTA)
Instruct at a winter camping field trip X X x
Instruct at a snowshoe field trip X X x
Instruct at a sport climbing field trip x x
Instruct at a scrambles field trip X x x X x
Instruct at a navigation field trip X x x X x
Leading additional Basic or Intermediate field X x x X x
trips can replace doing a community activity
Committee member of a non-climbing activity X x x X x
Instruct at a non-climbing activity X x x X x
The Intermediate Committee has final ruling on stewardship and community activity credit(s). For questions
regarding receiving credit, please contact the Intermediate Climbing Committee.
Teaching Requirements
The Mountaineers is a volunteer-driven organization, and all instruction is done by volunteers. Thus, in order to
function as an educational organization we need to ask all our students to instruct, at least in proportion to the
amount of education they receive. However, instruction should not be viewed as chore or a requirement. Most of
our instructors do so because they love the outdoors and they are passionate about passing on their love to the
next generation. Instructing is one of the main avenues for developing leadership skills and meeting new friends.
Teaching enhances the grasp of concepts and techniques as well as the interpersonal skills in working with less-
confident climbers.
Each Intermediate module has a specified number of instructional credits required to participate in, and graduate
from, the module. Although Intermediate students are not expected to be experts, they should be comfortably
familiar with the techniques they are teaching. No credit will be given if students show up unprepared for
instructional activities.
Guidelines and number of credits received by an Intermediate student for instructing at activities related to the
following courses and modules can be seen below. Intermediate students who have passed an Intermediate
module may also instruct at the same module the following year for credit. Please note, students taking the
modules who are specializing in either rock climbing or mountaineering should focus their volunteer activities in
the subcategory in which they are specializing in. For example, a student specializing in glacier climbs should
volunteer for the snow field trips of the Basic Alpine Climbing Course.
General guidelines for instructional activities include:
The event must be an official Tacoma Mountaineers activity and listed on The Mountaineers’ website.
You must be registered for the event as an instructor and show up for the event.
You will not receive credit for teaching at the same field trip twice in the same year (if applicable).
You can double-dip and receive teaching credit while also fulfilling a community activity credit.
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The following activities do not count and will not receive credit for:
Climbs
Leading a basic field trip (that is a leadership activity).
Activities not sponsored by the Tacoma Climbing Committee.
Mountaineers activities that are not posted on the Mountaineers website
Teaching Credits
Basic FT Credit Earned Intermediate FT Credit Earned Other Courses Credit Earned
FT 1 P 0.5 FT1/2 2 Winter Camping 0.5
FT 1 1 FT3 1 Scrambles FT 0.5
FT 2 1 FT 4 1 Sport Climbing 0.5
FT 3 2 FT 5 1 Snowshoe FT 0.5
FT 4 P 0.5 FT 6 1 Navigation 0.5
FT 4 1 FT 7 1
FT 5 1 FT 8 1
FT 6 P 0.5 FT 9/10 2
FT 6 1 FT 11/12 2
FT 7 1 Int. Lecture 0.5
The Intermediate Committee has final ruling on teaching credits. For questions regarding receiving credit for
volunteer activities, please contact the Intermediate Climbing Committee.
Climb Leadership Development Requirements
Leadership development is a major focus of the Intermediate Program, and a requirement for graduation.
Leadership is essential for being self-sufficient and safe in the mountains. Leadership skills are comprised of
technical competence, interpersonal skills, and the ability to make sound decisions. Among those, technical
competence is usually the most easily acquired skill, since this is what is explicitly taught in the Intermediate
modules.
Interpersonal skills include self-awareness, self-leadership, clear, open and honest communication with the
climbing party, being patient and considerate, the ability to gain the trust and followership of the climbing party,
as well as humility and a sense of humor. Students need to be self-directed and interested in becoming better
leaders in order to improve their interpersonal skills. Teaching at beginner-level field trips and acting as a rope
lead on Basic climbs are activities that foster the development of these skills.
Good judgement comes with experience, and experience takes time. Going into the mountains frequently, for
extended periods of time, and with different groups of people helps with gaining this experience. Often it is close-
calls or near-misses that provide the learning environment. It is also possible to learn from the bad experiences of
other climbers. “Accidents in North American Climbing” is a yearly publication by the American Alpine Club
depicting actual climbing accidents that is intended exactly for this purpose.
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Leadership Activity Requirements
As noted above, and worth repeating, a major focus of the Intermediate Program is on leadership development.
Leadership activities are club-related activities that benefit the Tacoma Mountaineers climbing community via a
direct leadership role. Below is a list of activities that you can use to gain leadership credit. These activities can
include leading field trips, becoming a climb leader, or assisting on a committee. Acceptable leadership activities
vary by module, and can be identified using the table below:
Leadership Activities by Module
Activity Snow Skills Anchors & Rescue Rock Glacier Ice
Lead a Basic FT X X X X X
Lead an Intermediate FT X X X
Climbing Program Committee Member X X X X X
Become a snowshoe leader X X
Become a scrambles leader X X X
Become a Basic Rock Climb Leader X
Become a Basic Glacier Climb Leader X X
The Intermediate Committee has final ruling on leadership credits. For questions regarding receiving credit for
leadership activities, please contact the Intermediate Climbing Committee.
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Graduation
Graduating from Individual Intermediate Modules
Graduation from individual Tacoma Intermediate modules means that you keep the skills badges earned after
successfully passing a module. These badges will expire in 3 years if you have not graduated from the module.
NOTE: Pass requirements and graduation requirements will be updated by the Intermediate Committee as
needed.
Intermediate Snow Skills Module (Soft Snow) Pass and Graduation Requirements
Intermediate Snow Skills Module Pass Requirements:
1. Complete AIARE level 1
2. Pass the field trip skills test
a. Spend the night in an emergency snow shelter
b. Show proficiency in the 6:1 drop loop haul system
3. Pass the written exam
Intermediate Snow Skills Module Graduation Requirements (you have 3 years to finish requirements 3-7):
1. Pass the module (meet all the pass requirements).
2. Two years to accumulate 3.5 unique teaching credits – 2.5 credits should be Basic FTs
Recommended activities: FT1 Prep, FT1, FT2, FT3, FT6 prep, FT6, FT7, Int. lecture, and IFT1/2
3. Rope lead on a total of 2 Basic glacier climbs
4. Complete one winter overnight camping trip
5. Complete one leadership activity
6. Complete one community activity or stewardship activity.
7. Submit a graduation application (found on the course website in the course materials tab) to the
Intermediate Climbing Committee Records Chair and Chair.
Intermediate Anchors and Self-Rescue Pass and Graduation Requirements
Module Pass Requirements:
1. Pass the field trip skills test
a. Safely lead and clean a route by lowering - on a 5.6 or harder single-pitch sport route.
b. Safely lead, clean, and rappel a 5.6 or harder single-pitch sport route.
c. Safely belay a leader on two sport routes.
d. Show proficiency and knowledge of skills in the self-rescue field trip.
2. Pass the written exam
Anchors and Self-Rescue Module Graduation Requirements (3 years to finish steps 3-5):
1. Pass the module (meet all the module pass requirements)
2. You have 2 years to accumulate 3.5 unique teaching credits – at least 2.5 credits should be Basic FTs
Recommended activities: FT1 Prep, FT1, FT2, FT4 prep, FT4, Int lecture, IFT3, and IFT4
3. Complete one leadership activity
4. Complete one community or stewardship activity
5. Submit a graduation application (found on the course website in the course materials tab) to the
Intermediate Climbing Committee Records Chair and Chair.
Intermediate Rock Module Pass and Graduation Requirements
Single-Pitch Pass Requirements:
1. Safely lead 2 single pitch routes (approved by the Intermediate Climbing Committee) on traditional
gear at a grade of 5.6 or harder at Single Pitch Field Trip 6.
2. Show good judgement of lead climbing ability at Single Pitch Field Trip 6.
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Multi-Pitch Pass Requirements:
1. Safely and efficiently swing leads on one approved multi-pitch route graded 5.6 or harder
2. Pass the Intermediate Rock Module exam
Rock Module Graduation Requirements (3 years to finish steps 3-7):
1. Pass the module (meet all single and multi-pitch pass requirements)
2. You have 2 years to accumulate 6.5 unique teaching credits - 1.5 credits must be Basic FTs
Recommended activities: BFT 2, BFT 4P, BFT 4, BFT 5, Int. lecture, IFT3, IFT4, IFT5, IFT6, IFT 7 and IFT 8
3. Complete one leadership activity
4. Complete one community or stewardship activity
5. Be a rope leader on 2 listed Basic rock climbs
6. Complete 2 listed Intermediate rock climbs
7. Submit a graduation application (found on the course website in the course materials tab) to the
Intermediate Climbing Committee Records Chair and Chair
Intermediate Glacier Travel Module Pass and Graduation Requirements
Module Pass Requirements:
1. Pass the module skills test
a. Swing leads on 40-70 degree hard snow
b. Show complete competence in the 6:1 haul system
c. Show complete competence in building and equalizing snow anchors
d. Show proficiency in ascending out of a “crevasse”
2. Pass the Intermediate Glacier Travel written exam
Module Graduation Requirements (3 years to finish steps 3-6):
1. Pass the module
2. You have 2 years to accumulate 3.5 unique teaching credits -1.5 credits should be Basic FTs
Recommended activities: BFT 2, BFT 3, BFT 6 Prep, BFT 6, BFT 7, Int. lectures, IFT1/2, and IFT9/10
3. Complete one leadership activity
4. Complete one community or stewardship activity
5. Complete one mentored rope leader of a listed Basic Glacier climb that you have not done before.
6. Submit a graduation application (found on the course website in the course materials tab) to the
Intermediate Climbing Committee Records Chair and Chair.
Intermediate Alpine Ice Module Pass and Graduation Requirements
Module Pass Requirements:
1. Swing leads on 40-70 degree alpine ice
2. Show complete competence in building and equalizing ice anchors
3. Pass the Intermediate Alpine Ice written exam
Module Graduation Requirements (3 years to finish steps 3-6):
1. Pass the module
2. You have 2 years to accumulate 3.5 unique teaching credits – 1.5 credits should be Basic FTs
Recommended activities: BFT 2, BFT 3, BFT 6 Prep, BFT 6, BFT 7, Int. lectures, IFT1/2, IFT9/10, and
IFT11/12
3. Complete one leadership activity
4. Complete one community or stewardship activity
5. Complete 2 listed Intermediate Ice climbs
6. Submit a graduation application (found on the course website in the course materials tab) to the
Intermediate Climbing Committee Records Chair and Chair.
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Graduating from the Intermediate Program
Graduation from the whole Intermediate Program is a major accomplishment. Many students starting the
program find the level of commitment required to graduate exceeds the amount of time and effort they can or
want to invest. Gaining the Intermediate Badge is an indicator of technical competence on rock, snow and ice, as
well as leadership.
The following requirements must be met to graduate from the whole Intermediate Alpine Climbing Program:
1. Attend the Teaching and Trip Planning Lecture
2. Graduate from all modules
3. Participate in the Mountaineers Outdoor Leadership Seminar
4. Complete at least six (6) basic climbs as a rope leader or mentored leader in a safe and competent
manner, including at least two (2) rock and two (2) glacier climbs. Each climb must be of a separate and
distinct route. This is the total number of climbs required for graduation from the Tacoma Intermediate
program; some of these climbs will be completed as part of various modules.
5. Complete seven (7) intermediate climbs, including at least two (2) alpine ice and two (2) alpine rock
climbs. Four (4) of these climbs must be posted on the Mountaineers website before the event takes
place. The student must have been registered for the climb, and each climb must be a separate and
distinct route. This is the total number of climbs required for graduation from the Tacoma Intermediate
program; some of these climbs will be completed as part of various modules.
6. Maintain Wilderness First Aid certification or equivalent during while in the Intermediate Course.
7. Submit graduation application (found on the course website in the course materials tab) to the
Intermediate Climbing Committee Records Chair and Chair.
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Climbs
Basic and Intermediate-level climbs are the Intermediate student’s opportunity to apply a wide range of skills. The
following is the Mountaineers Club-wide Activity Standard’s definition of these types of climbs and trips.
Class refers to a rating for rock climbing difficulty using the Yosemite Decimal System as described in the most
recent edition of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. The class of a climb indicates the difficulty of the hardest
move on the hardest pitch of a climb. The class descriptions are as follows:
2 Simple scrambling, with possible occasional use of the hands - such as on a talus slope
3 Steep scrambling, some exposure, hands are used for balance; a rope might be carried
4 Simple climbing, often with more exposure. A rope is often used. A fall could be fatal. Typically
natural protections can be found.
5 Technical rock climbing, involving a rope, belaying, and protection (natural or artificial) to protect
the leader from a long fall
5.0 - 5.4 There are two hand and two foot holds that become smaller as the class increases.
5.5 - 5.6 Two hand and two footholds are there, obvious to the experienced, but not necessarily to the
beginner.
5.7 The move is missing one hand or foothold, strenuous.
Ratings for specific routes may be found in Cascade Alpine Guide, Volumes I, II, and III and other climbing
guidebooks.
Grade refers to a rating of a climb’s overall difficulty using the National Climbing Classification System. Difficulty of
the entire climb and is represented by Roman numerals I through VI. The factors in a grade assignment include:
length and difficulty of the approach, ease of escape from the route, availability of protection, objective hazards,
amount and difficulty of technical climbing, and the time and degree of “commitment” required for the climb.
Generally, a competent party can complete the technical portions of a:
Grade I Climb in several hours,
Grade II In half a day,
Grade III In most of a day,
Grade IV In a very long day (possible bivouac and if rock at least 5.7),
Grade V In more than one day (bivouac and if rock at least 5.8),
Grade VI Several days with major technical difficulties.
Ratings for specific routes may be found in Cascade Alpine Guide, Volumes I, II, and III and other climbing
guidebooks.
Climbing trips will be rated with these categories, and the rating must be available to participants when they sign
up. Ratings are documented on The Mountaineers’ website’s route description, and participant prerequisite
badges are assigned accordingly. Participants must have the prerequisite skills as defined by the prerequisite
badges, and are responsible for signing up only for trips that are within their physical and technical capabilities,
wearing suitable clothing, and carrying appropriate equipment.
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Basic Climbs
Basic climbs are summit routes with a difficulty rating of Grade I and occasionally Grade II that involve:
Class 3, 4, or low 5th class rock; and/or
Steep and possibly hard snow with hazards that may require crampons & ice ax; and/or
Glacier travel
Basic Rock Trips: The route will include one or more pitches of class 4 to low 5th class rock.
Basic Alpine Trips: The route will include at least one of these challenges; steep or hard snow, Class 3-4
rock (usually with no more than one roped pitch) and/or glacier travel (less than one hour during the
ascent).
Basic Glacier Trips: The route will include one hour or more of glacier travel during the ascent.
Crag Climbs
Crag climbs are 5th class rock climbs on routes located within a short distance from a parking area.
Intermediate Climbs
Students wanting to graduate from the modules, or whole Intermediate Program, are required to participate in
Intermediate level climbs. Intermediate Climbs are routes with a difficulty rating of Grade II or higher, generally
with a summit as the destination. Some Grade II routes may be considered Basic Climbs. It is strongly encouraged
that students successfully serve as a rope lead on at least one Basic climb before they participate in Intermediate
level climbs. Intermediate climbs are of varying difficulty and students should make sure they only sign up for
climbs that match their current level of ability and confidence.
Prerequisites for Participation, Summits, and Credit for Intermediate Climbs
Although the mental focus of students is often on the technical rock and ice climbing involved, the whole
spectrum of mountaineering challenges may be encountered during the journey from trailhead to summit and
back. For many students, the best lessons on climbs have occurred on “epics” that never got close to the summit.
While these are valuable experiences, they are not climbs of the mountain.
All intermediate climbs require the attainment of the summit, even if it is technically easy. On many routes the
technical difficulties are way below the summit but completing the climb is part of the total mountaineering
experience. Almost all intermediate climbs require reaching the main summit. There are a limited number of
routes which naturally culminate at a subsidiary summit. For example, the climb of Mount Index, North Peak,
North Face route ends at the North Peak and does not require attaining the main summit of Index for credit.
Prerequisites to participating in Intermediate Climbs and receiving climb credit are:
Students need to meet the prerequisites listed in the prerequisite matrix in order to sign up.
Students are expected to lead at least half of the pitches, and may need to lead the crux. Students
should not sign up for a climb in hopes of leading only the easy pitches.
All climbs must be conducted in a manner consistent with the Climbing Code. Climbers must carry a
helmet, the Ten Essentials, as well as food, clothing and equipment appropriate to the climb.
Students must complete the entire trip in a safe and competent manner in order to receive credit. The
climb leader has the option of denying credit for the climb if the student did not meet these requirements,
even if the summit was reached.
Intermediate students are required to act as rope leads on Basic-level climbs and as partners on Intermediate-
level climbs prior to gaining climb leader status. On these climbs, rope leaders and partners are expected to:
Demonstrate technical competence, interpersonal skills and good judgement.
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Show up prepared as if they were leading the climb. This includes having all the gear needed for the
climb, detailed knowledge of the climbing route as well as the descent, ability to navigate on and off
trail, knowledge of potential hazards and how to mitigate them, and more.
Be courteous, patient, humble, and generally display good expedition behavior.
Assist the climb leader in organizing and managing the climbing party, route finding, setting up
rappels, accounting for whereabouts of students and each other, resolving conflicts, etc.
Students must complete the entire trip in a safe and competent manner in order to receive credit.
The climb leader has the option of denying credit for the climb if the student did not meet these
requirements, even if the summit was reached.
Intermediate Mountaineering Climbs
Activity Standards Definition of an IM Trips: The route may include rock, snow, or ice; but not enough to be rated
IR or II; some Basic climbs may be considered IM-rated climbs in winter conditions.
Intermediate Rock Climbs
Activity Standards Definition of IR Trips: The route will include multiple pitches of 5th class rock.
Intermediate Rock climbs are typically rated Grade II or III, 5.6 to 5.8, with a few climbs being longer or harder.
These climbs often include un-roped pitches of 3rd and 4th class scrambling. Intermediate Rock climbs vary from
very short (three pitches), to very long (twenty plus pitches). Third and fourth class sections that may require un-
roped climbing are often encountered. Many climbs involve long cross-country approaches (often with brush and
hard snow), that while not technical are certainly demanding. In the face of deteriorating weather, many climbs
are difficult to retreat from after a certain position has been reached.
On the other hand, the longer and more difficult the climb, the greater the potential for a satisfying alpine
experience. To be able to rapidly negotiate trail, brush, scree, snow, and 4th and 5th class climbing can be very
exhilarating. A bivouac on route under the stars can be savored for years. Certain practices have proved their
worth for Intermediate level climbers. Most Intermediate rock climbs are strenuous and require being in excellent
shape. Being well rested and used to carrying loads, having done several moderate climbs (such as Basic leads and
scrambles), having invested time in rock practice (especially in Leavenworth during the off-season), and being
organized and mentally prepared can all contribute substantially to your success and enjoyment.
A few special circumstances should be borne in mind. Many rock climbs, especially in the Cashmere Crags and
Washington Pass areas, can be done throughout the season (often when west side conditions are soggy). Other
climbs are more time and condition dependent. For example, many North Cascade climbs require long days,
adequate snow cover (over brush, gullies, loose rock, crevasses and ice), reasonable weather, temperatures that
allow for a light load (and still a bearable bivouac), and hard snow and stable ice conditions. Early in the season
(especially during high snow years and late springs) there may be snow masses and cornices perched on rock
surfaces that melt out from underneath and can suddenly discharge. Also in early and mid-season, rainy weather
and warm daytime temperatures can trigger wet snow avalanches. Hanging glaciers can be hazardous throughout
the season.
Much of the Cascades are composed of mediocre rock with loose debris and poor opportunities for protection.
Rain or rapid warming often triggers rock fall. Even the good granite of the Mt. Stuart region has much loose rock
in places. Finally, it is hard to overemphasize the importance of an early start (such as moving by first light) and
rapid progress, even on short climbs. Having thought through the climb and the time involved, you can assess
whether you are making it or not.
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Intermediate Ice Climbs
Activity Standards Definition of II Trips: The route will include multiple pitches of alpine or waterfall ice.
The technical sections of Intermediate Ice climbs generally consist of hard snow or glacial ice at angles of 40 to 70
degrees for 500’ to several thousand feet in length. It has been said that the charm of ice lies in its changeability,
it differs from hour to hour, day to day and month to month. Unlike rock pitches which are relatively unchanged
from year to year, ice climbs constantly evolve and may be “in condition” at only certain times of the year or
often only for certain hours of the day. As more experience on steep hard snow and ice is acquired, a sense of
what will work develops. A smooth relationship among tools, techniques and self-knowledge will enable the ice
climber to safely succeed when conditions are right. An understanding of mountains, the cycle of snow and ice,
and of weather and timing will enable you to sense when conditions are right.
Most Intermediate “Ice” climbs are a mix of snowfields and glaciers, hard snow and glacial ice, usually in the 35-60
degree range. Unlike the great ice faces of the Canadian Rockies and Alaska, the Cascades offer more moderate
but nonetheless challenging climbs, mainly on the slopes of the volcanoes and the hanging glaciers of the North
Cascades. Technical sections are mainly at angles of 40 to 55 degrees for five hundred to several thousand feet.
Often it is necessary to begin ice climbs very early (in the dark) to allow the party to get above certain hazards
before the first sunlight hits the slope. Many climbs on the volcanoes are best done in early season (June through
mid-July) before lots of rock and icefall develops. High freezing levels following rapid warming trends can render
many routes hazardous and they should not, as Beckey emphasized, be attempted. Conversely, other alpine ice
climbs bloom when the winter snow cover is reduced and hardened in late season. For this reason, a number of
ice climbs can only be done for ice credit after August 1st.
When planning for ice climbs keep in mind the snow pack that year, trends in spring melt, the recent weather
history (such as heavy snowstorm last week followed by hot weather), change in icefall and crevasse pattern and
the immediate weather conditions. The diversity of even summer weather is such that cold and severe storms can
arrive quickly and prompt a hasty retreat. As Beckey puts it “A number of tragedies have occurred because a party
underestimated the severity of such storms and ‘dug in’ or kept climbing with inadequate equipment.”
Practice and development of skills for ice climbing are somewhat harder to come by than for rock. The Nisqually
Glacier on Mt. Rainier and the lower Coleman Glacier on Mt. Baker are two common areas. Much practice can be
gained by actually doing modest climbs (such as Basic level and Mountaineering climbs) so that snow and ice
techniques come naturally and automatically when needed.
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Climb Leader Pathways
Becoming a Climb Leader is not a necessary step (or requirement) in order to graduate from the Intermediate
Course. While we encourage students to consider this as a great option to practice leadership skills and give back
to The Mountaineers, it is a personal choice. Taking less experienced climbers into the mountains is a great
responsibility and we want our leaders to make a deliberate decision to do so.
Basic Rope Leader Status Clubwide Standard
Graduation, Equivalency, or Student-status in the Intermediate Climbing Course with satisfactory
completion of the Self-Rescue field trip.
Graduation or Equivalency from both a Trad Rock Climbing Course and the Basic Climbing Course for a
Basic Rock-rated climb.
Demonstrated ability to travel 3 miles in 2 hours, gaining an average of 800’/mile, carrying at least 30 lbs.
Exception: With leader permission a Basic Graduate or Basic Equivalent can be a rope leader.
Tacoma Intermediate Committee Interpretation and Recommendations for Basic Rope Leaders
Successfully passed and have current badges for the following courses:
Outdoor Leadership Seminar
Navigation
WFA or equivalent
Basic Glacier Rope Leader Requirements and Recommendations
Required:
- Passed the Intermediate Anchors and Self-Rescue module
Recommended:
- Pass the Intermediate Snow Skills Module
- Successfully instruct at Tacoma Basic Field Trip(s): FT 3 (Basic Winter Overnight) and/or FT6/7
(Crevasse Rescue and Ice Axe Arresting Testing)
Basic Rock Rope Lead Requirements and Recommendations
Required:
- Passed the Intermediate Anchors and Self-Rescue module
- Pass the Intermediate Rock Module
- Successfully instruct at Tacoma Basic Field Trip(s): FT4 (Rock 1) and/or FT5 (Rock 2)
Recommended:
- Have attended an Avalanche Awareness Seminar in the past 18 months
- Passed the Intermediate Snow Skills module
Basic Alpine Rope Lead Requirements and Recommendations
Required:
- Passed the Intermediate Anchors and Self-Rescue module
- Gain Climb Leader approval, which may mean having passed Rock, Glacier, or both Modules
depending on the technicality of the climb.
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