Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand - Zegrahm Expeditions

Sub-Antarctic Islands
              of New Zealand
                            January 16 – February 2, 2020

            TA S M A N
               SEA

                                                   NEW Z EALAN D
                                      Milford
               Doubtful Sound /       Sound
               Bradshaw Sound
             Dusky Sound /
             Breaksea Sound
                                                Queenstown
                FIORDLAND
               NATIONAL PARK                         Dunedin
                  STEWART ISLAND /
                     ULVA ISLAND

                         THE SNARES

                            Enderby
                         AUCKLAND
MACQUARIE                 ISLANDS
 ISLAND
                                                CAMPBELL ISLAND

Saturday, January 18, 2020
Dunedin, New Zealand
 Having made our individual journeys to the lovely, southern city of Dunedin,
 the second largest city in the South Island, we found ourselves comfortably
 accommodated at the Distinction Dunedin Hotel, located in the center of the
‘old’ city, though older settlements were once located here. There are several
14th-century Moa-hunter sites along the Otago Harbor with a permanent site
 situated under the modern city. Maori called this village Otepoti.
Today, the population of New Zealand is around 4.794 million. Europeans
make up roughly 69% of the population with Maori comprising 15%. Asians
are the next largest group with 9% of the population, while other Pacific
Islanders comprise around 7% of the population.
After settling into our rooms, an optional visit to the Otago Museum, a
short 25-minute walk from the hotel, was suggested as a means of shaking
off travel stiffness, getting fresh air and sun to minimize jet lag, and an
excellent way of delving into a little bit of settler history.
In the evening we met with staff and fellow travelers for welcome drinks
and dinner.

Sunday, January 19
Dunedin / Embark Caledonian Sky
After a hearty breakfast, the first tour set off for Orokonui Gorge and Ecocentre.
Arriving at the Ecocentre, we split into groups and set out to explore the
sanctuary. As we strolled along, we heard about the various uses for native
grasses before seeing our first target species, the tuatara, an ancient lizard from
the dinosaur era. A few steps further we met the flightless, critically endangered
takahe and Otago skink with its snazzy black and white patterning. We saw
huge ancient trees that had survived being chopped down in the early settler
days because of their isolation. Multitudes of tui, bellbird, and kaka were easily
spotted, especially around the feeding stations. Walking tours finished at the
visitor center for lunch before we left for the albatross colony at Tairora Head.
There were thrilling views of Otago and spotted shags nesting on the cliffs.
A short, introductory film provided background information before the long
walk to the viewing room. Through windows, we could see four northern royal
albatross on nests and had good views of royal spoonbills flying past.
The second tour drove along the top road of the Otago Peninsula to visit
Larnach Castle, providing spectacular views of Otago Harbour. Preferring to
call his estate ‘The Camp,’ William Larnach began construction of his estate in
1871. He was a prominent entrepreneur and politician with the wherewithal to
acquire precious building and furnishing materials from all around the world.
We had a guided tour of the building’s interior before wandering the gardens
on our own. A lovely lunch awaited us in the dining room. While having a
rather decadent version of pavlova for dessert, a bagpiper and Scottish dancers
entertained the diners. Returning to Dunedin via the coastal route, we were
dropped off at the historic train station to begin a walking tour of the city.
Originally named ‘New Edinburgh,’ the city was established to remind the
founding settlers of their homes in Scotland. Today, the people of Dunedin take
pride in their heritage architecture, endeavoring to reclaim and restore several
of the historic buildings. The railway station, displaying its Flemish Renaissance
architectural splendor, with Royal Dalton mosaic tiles lining the interior, is no
longer servicing train schedules but remains a reminder of the once prosperous
city, built on the gold rush of the mid-1800s. Our tour finished at the Octagon,
the city’s town hall and St Paul’s Cathedral looming high on the upper terraces.
All on board, a mandatory safety drill complete, we enjoyed a glass of
‘champagne’ as we headed through Taiaroa Heads and out into the Pacific
Ocean, the bow of the Caledonian Sky pointed south.

Monday, January 20
At Sea
After an unexpectedly calm night at sea, we enjoyed a leisurely morning
before our lecture series was kicked off by Shirley Campbell and her
presentation, Maori Colonization of New Zealand: A Cultural Conquest of
New Lands. Brent Stephenson followed with his presentation, Seabirds of
the Southern Ocean. Those out on deck were treated to their first sightings
of southern royal and Campbell albatross, along with pintado, or cape
petrels. A delicious lunch outdoors on the Lido Deck provided fresh sea air
to invigorate our souls.
As the islands we plan to visit are now free of introduced, invasive species,
both animal and plant, we had to undergo a strict biosecurity inspection
of all gear going ashore to ensure that we didn’t inadvertently introduce
anything foreign to these pristine islands. The expedition crew thoroughly
scrutinized, vacuumed, and combed through our clothing and backpacks,
scrubbed and disinfected our boots and walking shoes before we went
through a final inspection to clear us to go ashore. Taking several hours, we
could be sure that no one would unknowingly introduce an invasive to the
delicate ecosystem on Campbell Island.
Yvonne Cook delivered our final lecture of the day with, The Shaky Isles:
Geology of New Zealand. In the evening we dressed for the Captain’s
welcome cocktails and dinner and met Captain Ulf-Peter Lindstrom and his
senior crew.

Tuesday, January 21
Campbell Island
This morning we sailed into the glassy, calm waters of Perseverance Harbour, the
largest of several fiord-like bays on the eastern side of the island. Lying 410 miles
south of Bluff, Campbell Island is New Zealand’s southern-most sub-Antarctic
island. Zodiacs ferried us to the landing, the odd New Zealand sea lion popping
up to investigate before slipping back into the tea-colored water. Hiking up the
narrow boardwalk, we snaked our way into the scrub hugging the slopes of
Beeman Hill. Lichen encrusted, stunted trees provided a vast array of greens
and yellows. A sea lion pup, perhaps only a month old, barely hid amongst the
shrubby undergrowth. Great delights were the magnificent collection of flowering
megaherbs, delicate gentians flowers, orchids, and Campbell Island daisies.
Fearless New Zealand pipits foraged underfoot and into the dense shrubs. Most
spectacular of all was the opportunity to observe southern royal albatross nesting
amongst the tussock grass. Adults and chicks sat quietly as we passed. From
the windless cliffs at the top of the two-mile climb, we had spectacular views
overlooking Northwest Bay to the west of the island.
Returning to the ship for lunch, the Caledonian Sky picked up anchor to sail
north along the coastline. Numerous lava flows, ash beds, conglomerates,
and dykes were visible. Rounding the northern cape, we could see spectacular
giant columns of basalt rising from the ocean.
The ship drifted while we set out in Zodiacs to explore the high cliffs. There
were several colonies of eastern rockhopper penguins crowding the steep
slopes of the western aspect. However, the star was the erect-crested penguin,
not expected in these waters. But here they were, three individuals looking
somewhat lost in a colony of smaller rockhoppers. We continued to cruise
some seven nautical miles further south along the coastline observing rafts
of Campbell cormorants, while a number of different species of albatross,
petrels, and elegant Antarctic terns soared above. We explored caves carved
into the now exposed 450-million-year-old mica schist, now colored with
more recent sandstone rock showcasing stunning pink, green, and gray
colorations. Below a very large rockhopper colony, great petrels were fighting
over the remains of what was presumed to be a hapless penguin. Bull kelp,
said to be the heaviest in the world by weight, clung to the rocks now exposed
by the low tide, while penguins clambered up from the water to find a secure
landing. Time recap and dinner, we turned our Zodiacs around and headed
back to the ship.

Wednesday, January 22
At Sea
We spent the day sailing west of Campbell Island, passing over a deep, oceanic trench which separates it from Macquarie Island, some
430 miles southwest. The first activity of the day was an early yoga session with Shirley followed by a presentation by Lloyd Esler, Human
History of the Sub Antarctic. Tom Hiney followed with his presentation, Importance of Islands. Brent invited us to Deck 4 to see a diving
petrel that had landed on the ship before being thrown back into the winds. Those out on deck also had good sightings of southern royal
and Campbell albatross, as well as several cape petrels. Later in the afternoon we had a second biosecurity check in preparation for our
landings on Macquarie Island. Brent delivered the last lecture of the day, Penguins of the Southern Oceans.

Thursday, January 23
Macquarie Island, Australia
Australia’s sub-Antarctic island, Macquarie, lies 54 degrees south of the equator. Twenty-one miles long and three miles wide, this is the only
other landmass at the same latitude as South America. This makes the island extremely exposed. The Caledonian Sky sheltered on the eastern
side of the island where the weather was relatively calm, despite a 30-knot wind that kept the island’s rangers on shore. We disembarked
for a tour of the low-lying isthmus separating the east and west coasts. The Australian Antarctic research station has nestled here since
1948. Elephant seals of all ages groaned and belched as we carefully walked in single file past them, trying hard not to attract too much
attention. Small groups of king penguins went about their business well away from the seals. There were spectacular views from atop a small
knoll looking back to the station and along both the east and west coasts. Along the western beach were gentoo penguins, a splash of white
above their eyes contrasting with their black backs. We witnessed the flying of a weather balloon set off at exactly the same time as several
others around the world twice a day to collect valuable weather information. We also enjoyed the renowned Macquarie Island scones with
jam and cream together with a hot cuppa (Aussie for a ‘cup of tea’).
Back on board with our rangers, we lifted anchor and sailed south to anchor off Sandy Bay. Landing in what could only be described
as ‘penguin heaven,’ we had the opportunity to explore this penguin wonderland. To one side, quirky royal penguins preened as they
socialized, while on the other, elegant king penguins waddled masterfully along the beach. The latter prefer to keep their breeding
colonies close to water, thus avoiding expending extra energy while moving from feeding areas to their chicks and partners. A huge
breeding colony congregated at the far side of the beach, several parents patiently standing still with an egg tucked into their brood pouch,
nestled atop their feet. Many other non-breeding penguins stood in groups chatting to each other and occasionally extending to their full
size, displaying. These large penguins, the second only to emperor penguins, were very curious. Several came close to investigate what
must have seemed to them like overgrown, inelegant alien species! Towards the other end of Sandy Bay, the royal penguin ‘highway’
accommodated the comings and goings of these little creatures. Displaying goofy, above-the-eye crests, these little penguins prefer to
breed well away from the beach, clambering long distances up the island’s slopes to breed and rear their chicks. We climbed a boardwalk
to one of these colonies to observe these boisterous birds while ‘at home.’ There were thousands of them, all protecting tiny territories
not more than a few inches away from their neighbors. Young chicks huddled together to keep warm and to find some protection from
swooping skuas looking for lunch. One poor fellow had been plucked from the colony and was being dismantled by giant petrels, and
then skuas while we watched. We had a good three hours at Sandy Bay amongst the few elephant seals and many penguins, returning to
the ship at 7:00 in the evening.

Friday, January 24
Macquarie Island
This morning was calm, the ship hardly moving at all. However, there was a 20-knot
wind outside and fog had descended, enveloping the island within its misty embrace.
Nevertheless, most of us donned wet-weather gear and brazenly braced for a Zodiac
cruise off Lusitania Bay. Surrounded by hundreds of thousands of king penguins stood an
infamous Digester, used in the early 20th century to ‘boil up’ first king penguins, and then
royal penguins. The island’s penguin population was decimated before it was stopped by
outraged naturalists. At the peak of the industry in 1905, the Digester could process 2000
penguins at one time, with each penguin producing up to 17 ounces of oil. Returning to the
ship, we had our final biosecurity check and lunch. Just as we pulled up anchor, six orcas
were spotted off portside. They entertained us as we slowly sailed away.
Enjoying an after-lunch snooze, the ship rocked more than we had yet experienced.
At 3:00 in the afternoon, we ventured into the Lounge to view a short documentary on
the fight to eradicate all invasive species from the island, followed by a presentation by
Brad Climpson, The Southern Ocean: Unique and Plentiful.

Saturday, January 25
At Sea
Sleep throughout the night was challenging. Nevertheless, a new day dawned, promising a
full educational experience from the Expedition Staff. The morning started with Yvonne and
her lecture, Islands of Fire. Lloyd’s presentation, Whaling and Sealing in the Southern Ocean
completed our ‘University at Sea’ morning. Following lunch, Shirley led a Yin Yoga class,
moving and stretching stiff bodies. Immediately following yoga, popcorn enticed more into
the lounge to watch a program tracing the fateful shipwreck of the Invercauld off Auckland
Island. Our final presentation of the day was Sam Riley’s, New Zealand Birds: A Story of
Fascinating Species, Catastrophic Declines and Hopeful Recoveries.
We made good time sailing from Macquarie to Auckland Island and so managed to
sneak into Carnley Harbour in the afternoon. These waters cut through the southern part
of the island, separating it from the smaller, southern Adam’s Island. There is a narrow,
and treacherous passage at the southwest extremity separating the two. It was wonderful
to have quiet waters around the ship. We took full advantage, gathering on Lido Deck for
drinks and to admire the beautiful landscape. Later, we anchored between Auckland, the
main island, and Enderby overnight to enjoy a restful sleep.

Sunday, January 26
Enderby Island, New Zealand
It was a glorious morning, overcast and slightly warmer than what we had
experienced at Macquarie, lying only 50.5 degrees south. After breakfast,
disembarkation began with the long, six- to eight-mile walk designed for the
hearty, trekking through the center of the island and along the eastern edge.
Medium walkers followed by leisurely walkers disembarked shortly after. We all
had to wait at the landing for yellow-eyed penguins to make their way down to
the beach along the ‘penguin highway.’ We also had to make our peace with
the renowned New Zealand sea lions, determined to let us know that it was their
territory we were in. Once past the beach full of pups, females, and juvenile males,
we had relatively free passage up the slope to a boardwalk at the entrance to
a ‘hobbit-like’ forest. The rata forest is like walking into Shakespeare’s Forest of
Arden; the twisted trunks creating a graceful, but eerie sense of otherworldliness.
Some of the rata was in flower, casting a reddened blush over the forest and upper
reaches of the island. We walked along the boardwalk through the forest before
emerging into colorful shrubland followed by tufted, tundra-like grasslands.
The boardwalk led towards the northern cliffs of Enderby, beautiful little
Enderby Island gentian flowers peeking from patches of mossy puffs clinging
to the more exposed soils. We saw tomtits, pitpits, and bellbirds through the
forest and into the shrubland.
Reaching the northern cliffs, we sat and looked out to sea while Enderby shags
and royal albatross showed off their balletic abilities. Back on the beach,
free time enabled us to quietly observe the sea lions, watching the males try
to sustain control of already pregnant females. These bulls were probably
unlucky breeders practicing their skills as harem keepers, their successful
counterparts, having ensured their genetic longevity, already back at sea
feasting. Moms with their pups tried to stay away from overzealous males
while younger males practiced keeping harems by rounding up stray pups
whose mothers were out to sea feeding. It was all very entertaining!
After lunch we spent the afternoon cruising along the shoreline. Yellow-eyed
penguins were still on the march, to and from their breeding and feeding
grounds, while New Zealand shags dried their wings on rocky ledges. We
saw Auckland Island teal, red-crowned parakeet, and many gulls. The crowning
glory was hands down the pair of light-mantled sooty albatross on their
nest, and a large chick sitting alone on a nearby nest probably waiting for its
parents to return.

Monday, January 27
Snares Islands
The seas were relentless during the night, those sleeping port-side could hear the pelting of rain on the windows in the early hours of the
morning. Although we had hoped to reach the island by 6:00 a.m. to see sooty shearwaters fly from their nests before dawn, our forward
progress was curtailed by the strong winds and swell. Swells continued to be 12 to 13 feet high while winds swept the sea’s surface into a
frenzy, making it too dangerous to put Zodiacs in the water. We did manage, however, to see the endemic Snares crested penguins from
portside decks or from the dry comfort of the ship’s windows. We could just make out the penguin ‘slides,’ used by these little penguins to
clamber up to the more forested areas of this desolate island to breed. Penguins were also in the water as we slowly made our way along
the east coast. Lots of diving petrels darted over the boiling surface together with the graceful gliding of Buller’s albatross.
Shirley presented her lecture, Ta Moko: The Art of Maori Tattoo and after lunch led another, more energetic yoga session. Lloyd followed
with his introduction to Fiordland, in Fiordland History. He entertained us with a quiz on maritime literature, offering up 29 questions. Tom
completed the day with, The Intelligence of Wildlife.
Arriving at Bluff for immigration and clearance into New Zealand, we had to say goodbye to Jo Hiscock, our Department of Conservation
official, as she departed the ship, but we welcomed the Jensens back on board to share with us the remainder of the trip.

Tuesday, January 28
Ulva Island / Stewart Island
Waking to a beautifully quiet morning with the Caledonian Sky anchored in Paterson’s Inlet, we prepared to go ashore on Ulva Island, the
southernmost bird sanctuary in the world. Dividing into groups, we set off with guides to explore the many paths that lead through the
understory. The island is a beautiful example of temperate rainforest, managed by the Department of Conservation, and is a predator-free
sanctuary for many species of endangered wildlife. Not only did the guides point out the magnificent 500-year-old rimu trees, and totara (the
wood used by Maori for canoes and carvings), but we also noted the smaller ferns and mosses lying amongst the undergrowth. There were
good sightings of the South Island saddleback, red- and yellow-crowned parakeets, riflemen (New Zealand’s smallest bird), bellbirds, and an
unexpected surprise, the morepork, a small brown owl confined to Tasmania and New Zealand. Perhaps the most endearing encounter on
the forest floor was the South Island robin. This little bird, although plain to look at, was quite unafraid while exploring the leaf litter under our
feet. We walked the tracks of the island all morning before returning to the ship for a quick lunch while the ship repositioned to Halfmoon Bay,
anchoring in the deeper waters of Foveaux Straight.
Transferring from the ship to the charming little township of Oban, we began to explore Stewart Island, or Rakiura. Maori used these southern
islands as seasonal camps to exploit the rich food resources that could be found here. Titi, or sooty shearwaters, stopping to regain strength
and nest after their long return migrations from north of the equator and back, were a favorite food. They likewise harvested seals and
sea lions. European sealers, missionaries, miners, and settlers married local Maori women, building the strongly-knit community that we
experienced today. Our local guides showed us some of the special sights of the island while recounting the history and on-going community
spirit that binds the island’s population of 500 or so. We learned of their slow-paced life, but also the difficulties that face a small, remote
community. Some of our group chose to walk the two- to three-mile trek to Ackers Point lighthouse, passing several shearwater nesting
burrows. The weather was stunning, the water unruffled, and the sun warming. We had time to shop in the small craft shops in the township
of Oban and to wander through the Historical Museum and the Rakiura National Park Visitor Centre.

Wednesday, January 29
Dusky Sound
This morning was calm and relatively mild. Although there
were low clouds and mist, the rain left us in peace. Not so the
little black flies that greeted us at the landing, Pickersgill Cove!
We had to cover as much flesh as possible to avoid these little
blood-suckers from feasting on us. Undeterred, we walked the
short boardwalk to the summit to view the lookout that greeted
Captain Cook and his crew in March 1773.
Captain Cook rested his men and made repairs to the
Resolution at Astronomer’s Point, after enduring 122 days in
the stormy, Southern Ocean. He had circumnavigated these
southern waters twice, looking for the fabled ‘Terra Australis
Incognita.’ Cook was finally able to put that quest to rest,
convincingly demonstrating that there was no such land mass,
but predicting that there was, instead, an icy continent deeper
into the icy sea. He just missed discovering Antarctica by an
estimated 150 miles. Exploring the surrounding area by Zodiac,
we found New Zealand fur seals, variable oystercatchers
feeding young on juicy oysters, and bottlenose dolphins playing
in the quiet waters. Through the misty views, to cloud-shrouded
peaks, the allure of Dusky Sound was contagious. During lunch
the ship repositioned to Facile Harbour and Pigeon Island where
we explored this part of Fiordland. The Zodiac cruise began in a
blanketing mist that soon turned into a driving rain, cutting short
our excursion. Nevertheless, one couldn’t help being in awe of
the beautiful, luxuriant forests.
Back on board, the ship lifted anchor and sailed slowly through
the magnificent scenery. The mists and low-lying clouds gave
the land and seascape a special, atmospheric charm, more
accurately reflecting the true character of Dusky Sound than
had it been a sunny day. The ship slid through the narrow
Acheron Passage into Breaksea Sound. From here we re-entered
the Tasman Sea, sailing north towards Doubtful Sound before
cruising through these quiet waters and entering into Bradshaw
Sound where we anchored overnight.

Thursday, January 30
Bradshaw Sound / Milford Sound
A monochrome morning greeted us with just a light mist; not
enough to deter an exploratory Zodiac cruise! Richly clad forests of
greens, with tinges of red, held back hanging clouds as we cruised
along the rocky shoreline admiring the coastal scenery. Waterfalls
adorned the steep slopes where keas, bellbirds, and long-tailed
cuckoos hung out. Back on board with Zodiacs secured, we slowly
made our way through the Sound admiring the scenery. Re-
entering the Tasman Sea, the ship headed north to Milford Sound.
Shirley gave the last presentation, Discovering Captain Cook,
finishing just as the ship turned into the narrow entrance to Milford
Sound. A pod of bottlenose dolphins greeted us, playfully leaping
in the ship’s bow-wake with their joyful display.
Milford Sound is a 10-mile-long glacial fjord with extremely steep
bedrock walls extending up to 6,500 feet above sea level and
dropping to nearly 1,000 feet below into the dark depths. The
sheer cliffs on either side of the entrance may be the reason Cook
did not enter the passage on his first voyage; it was another 42
years before Europeans first entered. Captain John Grono named
the Sound ‘Milford Haven’ after his homeland in Wales. The Maori
knew it well, of course, naming it Piopiotahi.
Today, clouds draped the taller peaks of the Sound, momentarily
revealing their magnificent peaks as the gentle breeze pushed the
clouds aside. Adorned with numerous waterfalls, the sheer sides
seemed to rise straight from the water. This picturesque part of
the South Island has been captured in countless photographs for
good reason! Stirling Falls, one of two permanent waterfalls in the
Sound, loomed in the distance; the classic U-shaped valley a clear
sign of recent glaciation. It features a 495-foot waterfall spilling
from its rim. The Captain took the bow of the ship close to the
falls for our group photo. Continuing further, towards Freshwater
Basin and the end of the fjord we turned the ship and returned
to the Sound’s entrance where the Captain positioned the ship in
the protected waters of Poison Bay for the night. We enjoyed the
Captain’s farewell cocktails and dinner before retiring on our last
night on board.

Friday, January 31
Milford Sound / Queenstown / Disembark
Bags out early, we relaxed over breakfast waiting for our
transfer to the boat terminal at Freshwater Basin. We could see
Lady Bowen Falls, the second permanent waterfall in the Sound.
The views were spectacular in all directions with snowclad peaks
looming inland, while, looking back towards the Sound, Mitre
Peak rose audaciously from its dark waters. We received word
that trees had been blown onto the road overnight by strong
winds, delaying our buses while operations were underway to
clear them. Finally, hearing that the buses had arrived, we said
our goodbyes to the crew and disembarked the Caledonian Sky.
Driving along the only road between Milford Sound and
Queenstown, both sides of the bus offered jaw-dropping views
of the glaciated landscape. Making a short stop at The Chasm,
we walked through tranquil native forest to dramatic views
over the Cleddau River. Thousands of years of powerful water
running along the gorge have sculpted the rock into smooth,
pillow-like shapes. From here we climbed up the steep sides of
the Southern Alps. Reaching the Homer Tunnel, we waited for
oncoming traffic to pass through before entering ourselves. The
tunnel was begun by a few men with pickaxes in the 1930s and
completed in 1953 using more sophisticated machinery.
Lunch was enjoyed at the Kingsgate Hotel on the shores of Lake
Te Anau, the largest lake on the South Island, and the second
largest lake in New Zealand. The drive from Te Anau provided
more stunning views of the Southern Alps, passing by several
deer farms and flocks of sheep. It took us another hour and a
half before reaching Lake Wakatipu, the third largest lake in
New Zealand. Soon we were able to see Queenstown in the
distance, at the far end of the lake. Before long we reached the
Heritage Hotel where we were shown our rooms. Relaxing in the
late afternoon, or wandering down to the town, it felt warm and
unusually civilized!

Saturday, February 1
Queenstown
Birders were off early this morning for a 2.5 hour drive to Mackenzie Basin
to see the black stilt. One of the world’s rarest wading birds, the kaki, as
it is known by Maori, is only found in New Zealand. Several sightings
rewarded those who made the long drive there and back.
The Dart River Jet Boat excursion attracted the majority of our group.
Driving to Mt Aspiring National Park, Glenorchy, and finally Paradise, we
had a walk through a beautiful beech forest before boarding the jet boats
to continue the tour along the Dart River. Jetting comfortably through deep
gorges and wide, sandy bends, the 50-minute ride provided many scenic
experiences. We finished the tour back in Glenorchy where we boarded
buses back to Queenstown for lunch.
The Wine Tour group set off a little later, heading to Central Otago for
some fermented grape juice. The climate in Central Otago is drier than
elsewhere in New Zealand, with a much shorter ripening season. The best
grapes for these conditions are pinots, the region specializing in pinot noir
and pinot gris. Our first stop was Kinross Winery to taste a variety of wines
from different wineries in the Gibbston area. A wonderful selection of local
cheeses, spreads, and dried meats provided a special lunch at Carrick
Winery in Bannockburn. Our last stop was at Aurum Winery, an organic
operation in Cromwell. Driving back to Queenstown, we made a small
detour to the historic Arrowtown, now a major tourist attraction with its
heritage-like shops.
We all had an opportunity to take a 1,400-foot ride up Bob’s Peak on
the Skyline Gondola. The top offers the best views over Queenstown and
Lake Wakatipu. Before our farewell dinner, we spent time on the hotel’s
rooftop overlooking the lake and city, glass in hand, reminiscing over our
wonderful experiences together during the last two weeks. We had traveled
1,876 nautical miles through rarely visited seas, walked quietly by elephant
seals and avoided as best we could the New Zealand sea lions. We saw
nine species of penguins (of the 18 species worldwide!), 54 land-based
birds, 10 waterfowl, nine albatross, eight cormorants/shags, eight petrels,
and three storm petrels, three shearwaters, and two prions. Finally, three
cetacean species swam near us as we cruised the Sub-Antarctic ocean.

Group photo by Brad Climpson

Mike Messick                      Lynne Greig                 Max Breckenridge                 Shirley Campbell                  Brad Climpson                  Yvonne Cook

       Lloyd Esler                      Tom Hiney                       Jo Hiscock                       Sam Riley                   Brent Stephenson

Photo log text by: Shirley Campbell                   Photography by: Brad Climpson, Tom Hiney, Brent Stephenson, Sam Riley & Mike Bertin
Produced by: Charlie Boyd

This photo log has been produced by Zegrahm Expeditions and is the property of Zegrahm Expeditions. Any unauthorized use of images included is hereby prohibited..