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RI V E R S C R U I S E D I A R Y 2019 | 2020 EUROPE | ASIA | AFRICA | USA | LONG HAUL | EXOTIC StowawayMedia.com
FREE FLIGHTS ON ALL RHINE RIVER CRUISES PLUS SAVE UP TO £1,850 PER COUPLE Book by 28 February 2019 Basel ~ Strasbourg ~ Rüdesheim Rhine Gorge and Lorelei Rock ~ Cologne Award-winning suites with Full-board dining with wine Private home open-air balconies and beer included pick-up service avaloncruises.co.uk | visit your local travel agent We are a member of ABTA and our flight-inclusive holidays are protected by the ATOL scheme. Prices shown are based on two people sharing a Panorama Suite. Free flights offer valid on all new Rhine cruise bookings made between 20 Dec 2018 and 28 Feb 2019, departing the UK between 1 Jan 2019 and 30 Nov 2019. Offer valid for bookings departing London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Birmingham or Glasgow airports, on either British Airways, KLM or EasyJet operated flights, subject to availability. Alternative airlines / flight times are available at time of booking for a supplement. Prices shown includes saving. Offer subject to READER stateroom availability; for full terms and conditions, see avaloncruises.co.uk/offerstcs. Good Housekeeping Reader Recommended survey of Avalon panoramic views, RECOMMENDED 112 Good Housekeeping readers, 2018. Prices correct at time of print (12 January 2019). UK 2019
CONTENTS What an amazing few years it has been for river cruising, with exciting new vessels launching and ever-growing demand as more and more British passengers discover this is a fine way to travel. In 2017 alone, numbers rose 24% to top 210,000 for the first time, according to Clia UK & Ireland. This year is shaping up to be another fantastic 12 months for Clia river cruise members, with more new river ships on the horizon and many cruises already so well sold that 2020 is already on sale to cope with the demand. What is the attraction? Quite simply being able to travel in a first-class floating hotel and discover spectacular cities and little-known towns and villages around Europe, Asia and the US that all have fascinating stories to tell. Want to know more? Take time to read our 2019 River Cruise Diary, which is packed with information about the rivers your clients could be enjoying, as well as offering hints and tips to help you increase sales. Keith Ellis, Publisher CONTENTS Why take a river cruise.........................................4 Europe ....................................................................13 The Lower Danube.............................................17 The Rhine and its tributaries..........................18 The Douro..............................................................20 The Rhône.............................................................22 The Seine...............................................................24 Russian Waterways............................................26 The Nile/Chobe...................................................27 The Mekong..........................................................28 The Ganges...........................................................32 The Yangtze/Myanmar....................................33 The Mississippi ................................................... 34 The Columbia & Snake Rivers ..................... 38 Brochure rack........................................................39 Published by .......................................... Keith Ellis, Stowaway Publications 10 Tadorne Road, Tadworth KT20 5TD Surrey +44 (0)1737 81 2411, kmellis@btinternet.com Written and Edited by: ................. Jane Archer ..............................................Janearc@aol.com Creative..... Andrew Reeves, Oddsock Design ......................Andrew@oddsockdesign.com Front cover image courtesy of Avalon Waterways StowawayMedia.com StowawayMedia.com | 3
W H Y TA K E A R I V E R C R U I S E River cruising is the holiday hit of the decade, gaining thousands of new followers each year who are drawn to the alluring mix of easy adventure and discovery that awaits on the world’s waterways. It is a very different style of travel to ocean Crucially, cruise fares now include a lot of cruising. The ships are smaller, carrying things that once cost extra. It does mean that an average of just 150 passengers, and they river cruising is not a cheap option, but it navigate rivers and canals rather than sailing is great value and very appealing to mature vast oceans, enabling passengers to really passengers (the majority of river cruisers get under the skin of places instead of just are retired) as they don’t have to think about visiting. extra costs while travelling. There is always something to see along the A seven-night Rhine cruise in June costs river banks - churches and castles in Europe, from £2,345 per person with Scenic and from remote villages in Asia - and when vessels £2,239 per person with Uniworld. Both are dock, it is often in the heart of a big city or among a few river cruise lines that include town. As they don’t need clearance by local everything from flights and transfers to authorities, once the gangway is in position, drinks, excursions and gratuities in the price. passengers can just walk ashore and discover new sights, sounds and tastes. Even those that are not all-inclusive usually incorporate one or two perks in the price, All that and the ease of just unpacking once whether it be free drinks at meal times, as your floating hotel glides from once place excursions or gratuities. Emerald Waterways to another. includes all three, but usually only one As the number of river cruise passengers has excursion per port (with others at extra cost); grown (the UK market alone rocketed 24% AmaWaterways includes drinks with meals in 2017 to reach a record 210,400 in 2017, and a choice of excursions. according to Clia UK & Ireland, and numbers from the US and Australia are way higher), so Saga includes drinks with meals and some the river ships and product have adapted to excursions, A-Rosa charges for excursions suit changing expectations. but includes drinks. Fred Olsen Cruise Lines charges for both drinks (beverage packages Most modern river ships now offer cabins with are available) and excursions. balconies, additional places to eat and larger spas. AmaMagna, a new vessel being built by Most include alternative dining where AmaWaterways and launching in May 2019, available as well as Wi-Fi. Exceptions include is twice the width of other river cruise vessels, the Vintage Room on Crystal Cruises’ river has four places to eat, a wellness studio and a ships, where a handful of passengers can rear watersports platform. The only other river enjoy wine-themed lunches and dinners ship of the same size is Crystal River Cruises’ for an extra fee, and the waiter-service Crystal Mozart. restaurants on A-Rosa vessels. StowawayMedia.com | 5
W H Y TA K E A R I V E R C R U I S E WHO INCLUDES DRINKS (Clia members only) The following river cruise lines include all drinks in the prices: APT A-Rosa CroisiEurope Crystal River Cruises Pandaw (local brands only) Scenic Uniworld River Cruises Tauck The following river cruise lines include drinks with lunch and dinner: Amadeus River Cruises AmaWaterways Avalon Waterways Emerald Waterways Saga (exclusive charters only) FOLLOW THE TRENDS windows that are split horizontally and open Titan Travel The trend for more rigorous excursions and downwards at the touch of a button. In their Travelmarvel activities is growing fast among river cruise top suites, Scenic, Uniworld and Emerald companies as 60 becomes the new 40 and Waterways use a combination of panoramic lines look to attract a younger generation. windows and internal glass doors to create sun lounges. Companies including Uniworld, Crystal, AmaWaterways, Scenic and Emerald AmaWaterways’ vessels, which are also used Waterways carry bikes that passengers can by APT, have split balconies so passengers borrow for guided cycle rides or to explore can sit either inside or out, depending on the alone, and hiking tours increasingly figure weather. among the choice of excursions on offer. Avalon Waterways vessels have two decks Avalon Waterways has dedicated active of cabins with wall-to-wall glass windows cruises on the Rhine, Danube and, new that open two-thirds the width of the room for 2019, the Rhône in France, while (pictured above) and give the impression of a CroisiEurope has cycling and walking- balcony when opened up on sunny days. themed departures with 30-mile bike rides Tauck’s newest river ships, Joy, Grace, Inspire and hikes of five to eight miles most days. and Savor, have traditional French balconies AmaWaterways has wellness instructors that open to a fixed rail. Suites, which occupy on all its cruises this year. Those sailing the almost an entire deck on each of these vessels, Seine, Rhine or Danube with U by Uniworld have two such balconies and are about half can go kayaking and walking across the the size of a squash court. rooftops of Paris. Demand for suites is so high that Tauck, Family river cruises are also becoming more Scenic and Uniworld have created larger popular. Children can go on most cruises rooms on some of their vessels by knocking WHO INCLUDES GRATUITIES two cabins into three. The latest to get the with most lines, but Uniworld, Tauck and (Clia members only) A-Rosa have dedicated family departures refurb is Uniworld’s River Royale, which with special activities and excursions to keep relaunches in March with four new suites. APT youngsters amused. On A-Rosa, children Avalon Waterways Crystal River Cruises’ Crystal Mozart and aged up to 15 travel for free when sharing a Crystal River Cruises AmaWaterways’ new AmaMagna have suites cabin with an adult. Emerald Waterways that are more than three times bigger than an Pandaw ROOMS WITH A VIEW average cabin. Scenic Cabins on river ships all face the water but Most river ships have a handful of lower deck Tauck have a multitude of different designs. cabins that are below the waterline and have Travelmarvel On Scenic, Emerald Waterways, Uniworld a high fixed window. These are targeted at U by Uniworld clients on a budget and often designated as River Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Amadeus Uniworld River Cruises single cabins with no supplement. River Cruises, the rooms have panoramic 6 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019
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A PLACE FAM TRIP!* ON PLACE ON THE THE AMADEUS AMADEUS RIVER RIVER CRUISES CRUISES MEGA MEGA FAM FAM TRIP! * For For Reservations Reservations Call Call 0800 TRIP!* 0800 035 035 6411 6411 For Reservations Reservations Call https://www.amadeus-rivercruises.co.uk For | 0800 0800 035 035 6411 sales@fredrivercruises.co.uk Call| sales@fredrivercruises.co.uk https://www.amadeus-rivercruises.co.uk 6411 www.facebook.com/amadeusrivercruisestrade/ https://www.amadeus-rivercruises.co.uk || sales@fredrivercruises.co.uk *Subject to Terms and Conditions www.facebook.com/amadeusrivercruisestrade/ https://www.amadeus-rivercruises.co.uk sales@fredrivercruises.co.uk *Subject to Terms and Conditions www.facebook.com/amadeusrivercruisestrade/ www.facebook.com/amadeusrivercruisestrade/ *Subject to Terms and Conditions *Subject to Terms and Conditions
W H Y TA K E A R I V E R C R U I S E The Danube is best known for itineraries that tick off the cities of Budapest, Vienna and Bratislava, but clients can also venture to the lower reaches, visiting lesser-known towns and cities in Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia and Hungary, where Romans, Ottomans and the Soviet Union all left their mark. And in case clients can’t choose which to do, two-week itineraries between Amsterdam and Budapest tick off the Rhine, Main, Main- Danube Canal and Danube. Once they have done those, there are plenty of other rivers to explore. In France, the Rhône and Seine are the big two, but there are also one-week sailings on the Garonne, Gironde and Dordogne Rivers in Aquitaine that visit some of France’s leading wine-growing regions, and barge holidays along the Loire Valley. The Douro in Northern Portugal was Tauck’s Inspiration-class vessels each have 2017’s sales star, recording an incredible four lower deck Loft Suites (pictured above) 85% growth in the UK to a total 20,700 The Elbe with a raised seating platform and deep window that can be partially opened. passengers, according to Clia. Clients can choose itineraries that sail round-trip from Elbe river cruises operate Exceptionally, Crystal River Cruises has Porto or combine a one-way cruise from between Berlin and Prague got rid of lower-deck cabins altogether on Porto to the Spanish border at Vega de Terron and call at Wittenberg, the Crystal Bach, Debussy, Mahler and Ravel. with a few nights in Madrid. Either way birthplace of the Protestant All their cabins are above the water line they’ll have tours and tastings in port wine Reformation; Meissen, the and have panorama windows that open lodges and take in a flamenco show. town that gave its name to the horizontally. world-famous porcelain; and There are also spring-time cruises through Dresden, the city destroyed by Clients can expect cabins and suites on all the Dutch and Belgian waterways timed for heavy Allied bombing in the river ships to have hairdryers, safes and when the tulip fields are in bloom, voyages Second World War, but now en-suite facilities Most have showers rather along the Elbe between Berlin and Prague restored to its former glory. It than baths. Scenic and Crystal River Cruises that combine stories of Martin Luther, is a brilliant itinerary, but the provide butlers for all passengers. Cabins porcelain and the World War Two bombing of river suffers from low water so and suites on Amadeus River Cruises and Dresden, and sailings on the Guadalquivir in passengers often end up being Crystal’s vessels have walk-in wardrobes. Spain and the Po in Italy. coached to the sights. In Russia, clients can combine a cruise on the EUROPE’S RIVERS The Rhine and Danube are the top-selling rivers, lakes and canals that link Moscow and rivers in the UK, between them attracting St Petersburg with a few nights in both cities. more than half of all British river cruise DISCOVERING THE REST OF passengers in 2017 on account of the many THE WORLD things to see and do along the way. Clients who are prepared to travel further The Rhine is popular for the many afield have even more choice. Voyages along castles along a deep gorge that runs 58 the Mekong River between Siem Reap and miles between Koblenz in the north and Ho Chi Minh City are the top-sellers when it Rudesheim in the south but returning comes to long-haul river cruises thanks to an passengers will find plenty to enjoy on exhilarating combination of ancient temples, itineraries that also explore its tributaries, the exciting cities and exotic markets. Moselle and Main. Staying in Asia, three or four-night cruises The Moselle is a narrow waterway that flows through the towering three gorges on the through one of Germany’s top wine-growing Yangtze in China offer a moment to relax regions and is lined with vineyards and on tours that take in the cities of Beijing and picture-postcard villages; the Main is also Shanghai. In Myanmar, golden pagodas, trips narrow and takes passengers to towns and to workshops and balloon rides over Bagan cities with centuries-old history and culture. await on voyages on the Irrawaddy. 8 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019
W H Y TA K E A R I V E R C R U I S E WHO INCLUDES EXCURSIONS What’s new for 2019 (Clia members only) AmaWaterways American Cruise Lines Amadeus River Cruises, Avalon Waterways, Riviera Travel and Viking River Cruises are all launching new river ships on the Rhine and Danube in 2019. APT Avalon Waterways Belmond AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna will be twice the width of other river ships and have Crystal River Cruises four complimentary places to eat including Chef’s Table, which serves a taster Emerald Waterways menu, Al Fresco, an outside/inside venue at the front of the ship, and Jimmy’s Pandaw Wine Bar. Riviera Travel Saga (selected tours only) Scenic Saga has a new 23-night river cruise through the heart of Europe, from Amsterdam to the Black Sea. The cruise, exclusively for Saga customers, is on Tauck the river ship Amadeus Royal on five dates next summer and includes a post- Travelmarvel cruise hotel night in Bucharest in Romania. U by Uniworld Uniworld River Cruises niworld River Cruises’ River Royale re-enters service on the Garonne, Gironde U The Po and Dordogne Rivers in spring after a massive refit that will add a pool, four suites and two dining venues. It will also have a new name, Bon Voyage. The Po is the longest river CroisiEurope, AmaWaterways and Viking are building new vessels to sail the in Italy, flowing 652 miles Douro in Northern Portugal in 2019, while A-Rosa is making its debut on the river from the Cottian Alps and with the new A-Rosa Alva. Starting 2020, Tauck will be cruising the river on the new emptying into the Adriatic Andorinha. south of Venice. However, river cruises sail only about 60 miles upriver to Polesella. Emerald Waterways is launching its first river ship in Asia. Emerald Harmony will As well as spending time in accommodate 84 passengers, have an outdoor pool and bar, two inside lounges Venice, there are excursions to and sail the Mekong between Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City. Padua, one of the oldest cities in Italy, Bologna and Ravenna, notable for the 5th and 6th- Passengers sailing the Seine with U by Uniworld can sleep under the stars on the century mosaics that adorn top deck of The B starting 2019. The €60 per person price tag for the ‘rooftop its churches and Basilicas. camping’ includes an evening cocktail and breakfast hamper. Ferrara, also visited, is a medieval town with ancient APT has seven new Signature Experiences in Europe for 2019 including a journey on the cobbled streets. Grand Empress steam train in Budapest on Magnificent Europe itineraries and a Lido de Paris dance show on Seine cruises. There’s a private cocktail reception at the Pont du Gard on the Rhône and cocktails and Fado music at Palácio da Bolsa on the Douro. CroisiEurope has new one-week culinary cruises on the Rhone with included tours to the Valrhona chocolate factory in Tain L’Hermitage and Les Halles in Lyon, and dinner (extra charge) at Paul Bocuse’s Abbaye de Collonges. Departures are weekly between April and October 2019. Crystal River Cruises’ 2021 itineraries include a new 11-night Eastern Danube Discoveries voyage round-trip from Vienna that visits Hungary, Serbia and Croatia, and includes a cruise through the Iron Gates Gorge. A-Rosa is putting 11 e-bikes on its Seine river ship A-Rosa Viva. It offers 3.5-hour bike tours to Monet’s Garden from Vernon and around Normandy. They cost extra and can be booked on board. StowawayMedia.com | 9
W H Y TA K E A R I V E R C R U I S E Those keen to get right off the beaten track can WHO INCLUDES FLIGHTS cruise the Upper Mekong in Laos, where days ( Clia members only) are spent exploring small villages, temples and markets, or the Red River in Vietnam, where APT they’ll visit Halong Bay and Hanoi. Avalon Waterways Emerald Waterways In India, cruises along the Ganges take Fred Olsen River Cruises intrepid travellers to mosques and temples Riviera Travel and the headquarters of the Hari Krishna Scenic movement. Further north, in Assam, voyages Saga along the Brahmaputra include elephant- Shearings back rides at dawn in search of tigers and often with the option of joining one for slow Tauck rhinos in Kaziranga National Park. walkers. Titan Travel Tours usually comprise a guided walk and After years in the doldrums, the Nile in Egypt Travelmarvel is back on the river cruise radar and demand time to wander alone. Tours that depart in the Uniworld River Cruises is growing fast as river cruise lines add morning will be timed to be back for lunch. If capacity and travellers again flock to see the they are in the afternoon, lunch will likely be ancient temples and tombs of the pharaohs earlier than usual. on cruises between Luxor and Aswan. How to For a very different Africa holiday, three and In cities such as Vienna and Strasbourg, river ships stay docked for a day or overnight. In increase your four-night safari cruises on the Chobe River other places, once everyone on board, you’ll set river cruise in Botswana or Lake Kariba on the Zambezi River include daily excursions in small boats off for the next destination. This is the time to relax, enjoy the views, listen to a talk about the sales in search of elephants, giraffe, leopards and a myriad of other wildlife. river, watch a cooking demonstration or join a beer or wine-tasting session. There will be arget ocean cruisers T commentary sailing through the Rhine Gorge In the US, paddlewheel boat cruises along the and Wachau Valley in Austria. looking for smaller vessels Mississippi and Columbia and Snake Rivers or a change of scenery. Afternoon tea is served in the lounge, then bring to life stories about the history of rock Switch-sell escorted tour and pop music, the American Civil War and there is time to shower and get changed passengers to a river cruise. Mark Twain. For the ultimate adventure, before returning to the lounge for pre-dinner They’ll still be touring but three-week voyages explore the American drinks and the tour director’s presentation only have to unpack once heartland all the way between St Paul in about the next day’s tours and activities. and enjoy the comfort of a Minneapolis to New Orleans. Dinner is served at 7pm, usually with open river ship. A TYPICAL DAY ON THE RIVER seating so you can sit with whoever you like. Attract non-cruisers by Although river cruising is a leisurely way to Around 9pm, the evening entertainment packaging a river cruise into travel, the days are busy with sightseeing, starts – maybe a quiz, a classical concert or a land-based itinerary, for cookery demonstrations, talks and quizzes. local folk dancers. Other times the resident instance a tour of Southeast pianist will keep the music going until the last Asia with a week on the Breakfast is usually from 7am to 9am, but person is standing. Mekong or the Ganges with lying-in is not an option as morning tours a tour of India’s Golden start early. Passengers are split into groups, And next day it starts all over again. Triangle. Get to know the destinations so you can talk with confidence about them and inspire clients to want to visit. What to pack There are no dress codes on the rivers Suggest an Asia river cruise so passengers just need to pack for the to clients planning their climate. As a guide, advise light clothes for first long-haul holiday but summers in Europe, warmer attire for the nervous of travelling alone. shoulder seasons and warm coats, boots, Grab every opportunity gloves, hats and scarves for Christmas offered by Clia and its river markets cruises. Asia is warm year round cruise members to get on but clients will need wet-weather gear board their river ships so if they are visiting during rainy seasons. you get first-hand product These differ from country to country. Smart knowledge. casual is fine for evenings. Most cruise lines ask that no shorts are worn to dinner. 10 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019
THE BEST NEVER GOES ON SALE Welcome aboard... where the ambiance is charming... the exclusive shore excursions go beyond the ordinary... and if it means a better travel experience, it’s included. I N S P I R E D B Y T H E D E S T I N AT I O N On Tauck river cruises, deep destination knowledge and longstanding local relationships create exclusive cultural experiences ashore. Delivering truly inspirational travel experiences has defined Tauck for 90+ years... and Tauck river cruises connect you with people, places and daily life along Europe’s great rivers – with you at the very heart of it. 2019 itinerary details are available at tauck.co.uk or call your preferred travel agent or Tauck on 0800 810 8020 w w w. t a u c k . c o . u k CLASSIC LAND JOURNEYS • RIVER CRUISING • SMALL SHIP CRUISING • F A M I LY A D V E N T U R E S
W H Y TA K E A R I V E R C R U I S E WHO GOES WHERE - EUROPE (Clia members only) Dutch water- Guadalquivir ways/Rhine Bordeaux Danube Rhone Russia Douro Seine Elbe Po Cruise line Website Amadeus River Cruises ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ amadeus-rivercruises.co.uk AmaWaterways ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ amawaterways.co.uk APT ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ aptouring.co.uk A-Rosa ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ arosa-cruises.com Avalon Waterways ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ avaloncruises.co.uk CroisiEurope ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ croisieurope.co.uk Crystal River Cruises ✔ ✔ crystalcruises.co.uk Emerald Waterways ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ emeraldwaterways.co.uk Fred River Cruises (GSA) ✔ fredrivercruises.co.uk/volga-dream Fred Olsen River Cruises ✔ ✔ fredolsencruises.com Riviera Travel ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ rivieratravel.co.uk Saga (exclusive whole season ✔ ✔ ✔ saga.co.uk charters only) Scenic ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ scenic.co.uk Shearings (exclusive whole ✔ ✔ shearings.com season charters only) Tauck ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ tauck.co.uk Titan Travel ✔ ✔ titantravel.co.uk U by Uniworld ✔ ✔ ✔ ubyuniworld.com Uniworld River Cruises ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ uniworld.com WHO GOES WHERE - REST OF THE WORLD (Clia members only) Columbia River Brahmaputra Chobe/Lake Mississippi/ Irrawaddy Ganges/ Mekong Yangtze Kariba Nile Cruise line Website AmaWaterways ✔ ✔ amawaterways.co.uk APT ✔ ✔ ✔ aptouring.co.uk Avalon Waterways ✔ ✔ avaloncruises.co.uk Belmond ✔ belmond.com CroisiEurope ✔ ✔ croisieurope.co.uk Emerald Waterways ✔ ✔ emeraldwaterways.co.uk Fred River Cruises (GSA) ✔ ✔ fredolsencruises.co.uk Pandaw ✔ ✔ ✔ pandaw.com Riviera Travel ✔ ✔ ✔ rivieratravel.co.uk Scenic ✔ ✔ scenic.co.uk Uniworld River Cruises ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ uniworld.com 12 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019
EUROPE Europe JOURNEY: THROUGH THE HEART OF FIND IT for those on a return visit, the Van Gogh or This journey starts in Holland and ticks off Rijksmuseum, and the house, now a museum, four other countries (Germany, Austria, where Anne Frank wrote her diary while in Slovakia and Hungary), three rivers (the hiding from the Nazis, are excellent. Scenic Rhine, Main and Danube) and one man- offers guided walking or bike tours around the made waterway (the Main-Danube Canal). canals. Avalon has an optional culinary tour. APT has tours to Zaanse Schans, a Dutch THE CRUISE village with windmills and cheese. This is the big one when it comes to river cruising in Europe – a full-on two-week THE RHINE voyage from Amsterdam to Budapest (or From Amsterdam river ships sail south along vice-versa) that takes passengers through the Rhine, first stop Cologne, a German scenic valleys and countless locks, visits city best-known for a magnificent Gothic medieval towns, world-class cities and cathedral that survived the World War glittering palaces, and lays on walking tours, Two bombing while all around the city was wine-tastings and classical concerts. If destroyed. time allows, an extra week can be added to A miracle? Who knows but as it took 630 selected departures for a journey all the way years to build and it was only finished in 1880, from Amsterdam to Romania and the Black it would have been a shame if it had been hit. Sea (see page 17). Most visitors marvel at the interior; those GETTING THERE feeling active can climb the 533 steps to the Flying in or out of Amsterdam and Budapest top for great views over the city and river. is the only sensible option. Walking tours are a good way to get to know WHAT TO SEE the city. For those interested in World War Assuming a north-south cruise from Two history, the NS-Documentation Centre Amsterdam, the trip will probably start with in the former Gestapo headquarters is highly an overnight on board so clients can settle in recommended. The Chocolate Museum, and explore the city the next day. For first- close to where the river ships dock, is a treat timers, a canal cruise is a good introduction; for those with a sweet tooth. StowawayMedia.com | 13
EUROPE THE MAIN RIVER A little way south of Rüdesheim, river ships turn left into the Main River. This is narrower and more picturesque than the Rhine but as there are 34 locks to navigate the sundeck will be closed most of the time while sailing. On most vessels that means there will be limited outside space. Key attractions along the Main include Miltenberg, a pretty town with half-timbered houses and a beautiful Renaissance fountain, and Würzburg, where city tours usually visit the baroque Bishop’s Residence to see its ornate staircases, acres of stucco and one of the largest frescos ever painted. A few river cruise lines alternatively offer tours from Würzburg to Rothenburg. It’s about 45 minutes’ drive away along what’s known as the Top tip: ‘Romantic Road’, and a fairytale-like town Cabin balconies really come enclosed by thick into their own on cruises on the Main and Main-Danube Canal walls that’s full of as passengers have their own medieval houses and outdoor viewing space even has a Christmas shop though the sundeck is that’s open all year. closed. Koblenz, at the confluence Cruises also visit of the Rhine and Moselle, is Bamberg, a town famous recognisable for the enormous for a strange smoked beer and equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I architectural gems including a town hall at the Deutsches Eck, or German Corner. covered with tromp d’oeil frescoes. Walking tours visit the statue and the narrow streets, squares and churches in the old city, THE MAIN-DANUBE CANAL but it’s a small place and easy to explore Bamberg marks the start of the Main-Danube alone. A cable car goes across the river to the Canal, a man-made waterway that opened in Ehrenbreitstein fortress, 118 metres above 1994 to enable ships to sail all the way from the river. the North Sea to the Black Sea. There are another 16 locks along the canal so again the Koblenz marks the start of the Rhine Gorge, sundeck will be closed most of the time. the most scenic stretch of the river with more than 40 castles and fortresses that date back The main attraction on the canal is to the Middle Ages. Cruise directors point Nuremberg. Tours go to the Nazi rally out the sights during the sailing, and also tell grounds and Documentation Centre in the legend of the Lorelei, a beautiful maiden Hitler’s unfinished Kongresshalle, which said to have thrown herself to her death over a charts the rise of the Nazi party. In the faithless lover who then lured sailors to their city, many visit the courtroom where the deaths with her hypnotic singing. war crime trials were held at the end of the Second World War. In Rüdesheim, a small town at the southern end of the gorge, tours visit Most river cruise lines stay a day in the city Siegfried’s Mechanical Musical Cabinet, an so there is also time to explore the medieval extraordinary collection of music machines centre. A castle, the vast market square, the from years gone by. If that doesn’t appeal, Church of our Lady and the local Nuremburg a cable car goes over the vineyards to the rostbratwurst are among attractions. monumental Germania statue that celebrates the foundation of the German Empire. THE DANUBE Guides will point out the Drosselgasse - a At Kelheim, the canal flows into the Danube narrow street lined with bars, cafés and River. Cruises visit Regensburg, a town with souvenir shops. narrow medieval streets, towers built by 14 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019
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EUROPE Top tip: Don’t miss a drive around Vienna’s Ringstrasse after rich merchants to show off their wealth and extravagant dark. It is fabulous by day, but a beautiful 12th-century stone bridge, and Mozart spectacular at night when the Passau, where walking tours visit St Stephen’s and Strauss palaces, opera house and Cathedral and potter through the cobbled concerts. parliament are lit up. streets and alleys. Those happy to explore alone can see Some river cruise lines offer all-day tours Klimpt’s famous painting from Passau to Salzburg, the Austrian town The Kiss at the Belvedere Palace, where Mozart was born and scenes from the splash out on coffee and Sacher Tort at the movie The Sound of Music were filmed, or Sacher Hotel and ride the big Prater Wheel Cesky Krumlov, a picture-postcard medieval made famous in the film The Third Man. city in the Czech Republic with a large castle and narrow streets made for exploring. Next up it’s Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, the fourth country of the cruise. The Old Once past Passau, river ships enter Austria. Town is easy to explore alone – it’s very small From Melk, tours visit a baroque Benedictine and just a five-minute walk from where the monastery dripping with gold decoration, boats dock – but there are walking or hiking acres of marble, grand frescoes and a library tours around the centre and up to the castle that stores 100,000 books. that sits above the city. This is the start of the Wachau Valley, a Last stop is Budapest, the capital of Hungary, scenic 24-mile stretch of river with vineyards, where itineraries usually include an overnight ruined castles and picturesque villages. stay so there’s time to see the sights before Several river cruise lines offer guided bike going home. rides through the valley to Dürnstein, a tiny Did you know? town where attractions include wine, apricots The city has many claims to fame - the oldest and a ruined hill-top castle in which Richard underground rail network in Europe after the Lionheart was once held captive. London, the largest Jewish synagogue in Almost 16,000 British river cruisers sailed the Rhine/Danube Europe and the third-largest parliament But the jewel in the Danube’s crown has to itinerary in 2017, up almost 50% building in the world (it’s trumped by the be Vienna, the glorious capital of Austria, a on the previous year, according to Palace of the Parliament in Bucharest and the city of music, art and palaces, from where the Clia UK & Ireland. Palace of Westminster in London). Habsburg emperors and empresses ruled the Austro-Hungarian empire for some 700 years. There are walking, cycling and Segway tours, First-time visitors will want to ride around an amphibious bus, which drives around Pest the spectacular Ringstrasse, a three-mile before plunging into the Danube and thermal circular boulevard lined with grand palaces, spas for those who want to relax. Tour museums and government buildings, and highlights include Heroes Square, an area peek into the royal family’s Hofburg Palace. laid out in 1896 to mark Hungary’s 1,000th anniversary, and Fisherman’s Bastion, a There are also tours to the Schönbrunn lookout spot in Buda with great views of the Palace, the Habsburg’s summer residence, and river below. 16 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019
THE LOWER DANUBE Lower Danube JOURNEY:ALONG THE FIND IT River cruise lines itineraries generally account of its grand Belle Epoche buildings. The Danube flows from the Black Forest include an illuminations cruise through Budapest after dark so passengers can see From Rousse, tours visit Veliko Turnavo, in Germany to the Black Sea in Romania, the city by night. They then set sail, heading the capital of Bulgaria before the Turkish passing through Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, east through Hungary. invasion in the late 1300s, and Arbanassi, Serbia, Croatia, Bulgaria and Romania a village with six tiny churches along the way. The Lower Danube runs First top is either Pecs, a city plastered with ornate from Budapest to the Black Sea. founded by the Romans frescoes. An Orthodox THE CRUISE some 2,000 years ago, Top tip: choir performance in the The top-selling voyage is seven nights, or Kalosca, from where Church of Archangel The most interesting sailing from Giurgiu, the port for Bucharest excursions visit the Michael and Gabriel is a sights on the Lower Danube in Romania, to the Hungarian capital of Hungarian puszta, highlight of the tour. are not along the river bank Budapest (or vice-versa), visiting Croatia, of prairie, to watch a so passengers should be Serbia and Bulgaria, and usually including traditional horse show. Veliko Turnavo is about prepared for long an extra pre-cruise hotel night in Bucharest. In Hungary that means two hours’ drive from transfers most A few cruises also visit the Danube Delta, whip-cracking cowboys days. Rousse. For those who don’t where the river flows into the Black Sea. who gallop their steeds wish to stray so far, most river without spilling glasses filled cruise lines offer alternative tours GETTING THERE with wine. to Ivanovo, 30 minutes from Rousse, Clients sailing between Bucharest and to visit two churches hewn into rocks some Budapest will fly in or out of each city. Novi Sad in Serbia or Osijek in Croatia are 900 years ago and decorated with frescoes next, then there’s a full day to explore the and icons. WHAT TO SEE Serbian capital of Belgrade. Tours visit This is a fascinating journey through five Tito’s mausoleum and the impressive St Giurgiu, the port for Bucharest, is on the Eastern European countries that visits Sava Orthodox church but it is just as easy other side of the river from Rousse. Cruises forts, castles, Roman archaeological sites to explore alone as river ships dock right by mostly end here but include a tour of the and spectacular rock formations. It also the city centre. capital - a vast palace built by former includes a transit through the scenic Iron dictator Nicholas Ceausescu that now Gates Gorge. Soon after Belgrade, river ships enter the houses the Romanian Parliament is the Iron Gate Gorge – a series of four canyons main attraction – and a hotel night in the A few river cruise lines offer three-week that run for 90 miles. A 40-foot-high rock city before passengers fly home. voyages all the way from the North Sea to statue of King Decebalus, the erstwhile the Black Sea. For details of the journey ruler of Dacia, in what is now Romania, CroisiEurope, A-Rosa, Fred Olsen and as far as Budapest see pages 13 to 16. The marks the eastern end of the gorge. others cruise further east and include bird- following continues the journey from spotting trips in the Unesco-listed Danube Budapest to Romania, but itineraries also Most itineraries call into Rousse in Bulgaria, a Delta Biosphere Reserve where the river operate in the other direction. town known in its heyday as Little Vienna on meets the Black Sea. StowawayMedia.com | 17
THE RHINE AND MOSELLE Rhine and Moselle JOURNEY: ALONG THE Top tip: It’s worth adding a couple of hotel nights in Amsterdam to the start or end of the cruise as there is so much to see. There are long FIND IT queues for the city’s museums day from London to The Rhine flows and Anne Frank House so Amsterdam (three from from Switzerland advise clients to book June 2019). The return to Holland, passing tickets online. journey requires a change through France and in Brussels. Germany along the way. The Moselle rises in north-east WHAT TO SEE France and flows through Luxembourg and If it’s spring again, it has to be tulips from Germany, joining the Rhine at Koblenz. Amsterdam. All the Dutch and Belgium waterways’ cruises in spring include tours to THE CRUISE the Keukenhof Gardens in Lisse, Holland, One-week sailings between Amsterdam and where seven million tulip, daffodil and Basel in Switzerland navigate the Rhine orchid bulbs are planted each year, creating Gorge and call into Cologne, Koblenz, themed displays (it’s Flower Power in 2019) Rüdesheim, Speyer, Strasbourg and Breisach. that attract millions of visitors. The gardens Some itineraries start or end in Cologne or are open from mid-March to mid-May. Dusseldorf; a few operate round-trip from Cologne. Longer cruises combine the Rhine These cruises call at Arnhem, to visit the with the Moselle. There are also one-week Airborne Museum that remembers the 1944 spring-time cruises around Holland and Battle of Arnhem, and Veere or Middelburg, Belgium round-trip from Amsterdam. for tours to an enormous storm barrier built after devastating floods in 1953. GETTING THERE There are scheduled and low-cost flights Dutch waterways itineraries also visit Antwerp direct from the UK to Amsterdam, and Ghent in Belgium, offer excursions to Dusseldorf, Basel and Cologne. Clients Bruges and call at Rotterdam in Holland, joining a spring-time cruise from from where there are outings to Gouda, Delft Amsterdam might like to consider travelling and Kinderdijk, where visitors can go inside a by train. Eurostar has two direct services a windmill and learn how they operate. 18 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019
Amsterdam to Basel cruises follow the same Speyer, to visit what was once one of the ON THE MOSELLE route as Amsterdam to Budapest itineraries biggest cathedrals in the western world and The Moselle is a much narrower and more but carry straight on when the latter turn left an 800-year-old Jewish mikveh, or purifying scenic river than the Rhine as it cuts through onto the Main River (see pages 13-16). That’s bath, and then it’s on to Strasbourg, the the heart of one of Germany’s main wine- at Mainz, where the chief attraction is the highlight of the whole cruise for many. growing areas and the banks are a carpet of Gutenberg Museum dedicated to the man verdant vines. who invented printing. The city is a mix of old and new architecture (the half-timbered houses in Petite France All Moselle cruises call at Cochem, a pretty Next stop is Mannheim, an industrial city vs the modern European Parliament and town of half-timbered houses and wine shops where Karl Benz built the world’s first European Court of Justice) and French that’s overlooked by the imposing Reichsburg motor car. Fred Olsen River Cruises has and German cultures due to the fact it has Castle. It’s a stiff climb up to the fort but walking tours of the city that visit a model changed hands between the two countries worth doing for the views over the river. of his first automobile but most river cruise five times since 1800. Itineraries also call at Trier, a city founded by the lines whisk passengers away on excursions Attractions include an astronomical clock Romans in 16BC, where the huge Porta Nigra to Heidelberg, a far more attractive town in the Gothic Cathedral that dates back (Black Gate) and the house where Karl Marx about 20 minutes away. to 1574 and still keeps perfect time, the was born are among attractions, and Bernkastel. It sits on the Neckar River and is overlooked cathedral itself (peek inside or climb the Avalon Waterways and AmaWaterways offer by a huge partly ruined red sandstone 332 steps to the top) and canal boat rides. cruises that start in Luxembourg. castle with a long history of conflict and destruction. Tours visit the castle, then Breisach, the last stop before Basel, is allow free time in the town. For those feeling active, AmaWaterways, APT and the gateway for excursions into the Black Forest (tours visit the Vogtbauernhof open Did you know? Avalon Waterways offer hikes up Holy air museum depicting life in the region, and Mountain on the other side of the river. there are hiking and biking trails) or Almost 50,000 British river cruise Their reward (apart from feeling righteous) to Riquewihr, a medieval village nestling passengers sailed the Rhine and Moselle in is great views of the castle. in the vineyards of Alsace that’s so picture 2017, making it the top selling river in the perfect it’s like stepping back in time UK, according to Clia. From Mannheim, river cruise lines call into 500 years. StowawayMedia.com | 19
THE DOURO Douro JOURNEY: ALONG THE Top tip: The Douro cruise is leisurely FIND IT weeks or more to get with fab scenery for those who dos Remédios in The Douro rises in north central Spain back as the vessels want to take it easy but those who September. and flows south-west and into northern had to be pulled by want to kick things up a gear can men and oxen. go walking through vineyards Most itineraries Portugal, emptying into the Atlantic at and canoeing with Emerald include local food Porto. Porto is a grand city with Waterways. and port tastings at a THE CRUISE narrow cobbled streets, quinta, or wine estate, There are two itineraries. The first, and grand squares and centuries of some have canoeing trips on most popular, is a voyage from Porto to history. Walking tours visit a 13th- the Sabor River, a tributary of Vega de Terrón, a distance of 210km (130 century cathedral, the São Bento railway the Douro. miles), an excursion to Salamanca in Spain, station, which is adorned with 20,000 tiles depicting Portugal’s history, and the bookshop But the highlight after Porto has to be and a cruise back to Porto. The second where JK Rowling wrote some of her Harry Salamanca, a Spanish city known as option is a one-way cruise between Porto Potter novels. the Golden City because its sandstone and Vega de Terrón sandwiched between buildings glisten in the sunshine. It’s a hotel stays in Madrid and Lisbon. Excursions often include a boat ride under two-hour drive from Vega de Terrón, but a GETTING THERE the bridges over the Douro that link Porto gorgeous day out (most excursions include Direct flights operate from London to with Gaia on the other bank and usually lunch with a flamenco show) and a chance Porto. Clients who want to add a few nights squeeze in a tour and tasting in one of the to discover Spain as it used to be, before in Lisbon can fly there and take the train to city’s port wine lodges. millions of tourists moved in. Porto, a journey of just two and a half hours. Top attractions along the river include Tours visit Plaza Mayor, one of the WHAT TO SEE Guimarães, where Portugal’s first king was biggest squares in Spain, a 12th-century The scenery is the star on these cruises, crowned almost 900 years ago, and the Romanesque cathedral, a ‘new’ Gothic- which either start or end with a tour of baroque Mateus Palace, the manor house style basilica built next door almost 300 Porto and then journey past acres of depicted on bottles of Mateus rosé wine, years ago and a bustling market where terraced vineyards that produce the grapes where tours show off a priceless collection stalls parade mouth-watering local Jamon used to make port wine and through deep of books, furniture and reliquaries. Iberico (cured ham), olives, oil and cheeses. valleys on the way to Vega de Terrón. The Douro Museum in Regua has an Vessels navigate five deep locks along the excellent exhibition about wine growing in Did you know? way. These were built between 1964 and the region. In Lamego, the top attraction 1985 to tame the river, which until then was is the Sanctuary of our Lady of Remedies, The number of Britons cruising the a raging torrent – so wild that in the days a pilgrimage church at the top of an ornate Douro in 2017 leapt 85% to 20,700, before roads and railways, it took wine- baroque staircase. There are some 680 making it the fastest-growing river growers two or three days to get their grapes steps that pilgrims climb on their knees in Europe, according to Clia. from Regua to Porto by boat but three during the festival of Nossa Senhora 20 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019
NAME Boutique river cruising through the heart of Europe There’s nothing quite like an Emerald Waterways river cruise. From Europe to Southeast Asia and beyond, we’ve put our stamp on deluxe river cruising, Exceptional combining state-of-the-art Star-Ships with meticulously planned itineraries, EmeraldVALUE plus our promise of exceptional EmeraldVALUE, so your customers can be sure of an unforgettable holiday that offers inspiring moments and excellent Enjoy all these inclusions… value for money. ■■ Return flights from a choice of up to 15 UK airports ■■ Stylish accommodation on-board our innovative Star-Ships ■■ All on-board meals in Reflections Restaurant ■■ Complimentary wine, beer & soft drinks with lunch & dinner ■■ Onshore excursions and Heated indoor pool† Sun Deck guided tours ■■ Extra-special EmeraldPLUS and EmeraldACTIVE experiences ■■ Complimentary on-board Wi-Fi ■■ Complimentary on-board bicycles† ■■ All port charges, taxes and transfer costs ■■ River Cruise Guarantee Cover Reflections Restaurant Enjoy included excursions PLUS ALL TIPS ARE INCLUDED Stylish Star-Ships Inspiring days ashore Exceptional EmeraldVALUE From the moment your customers step We take your customers to the heart of local Everything your customers could need is on-board one of our Star-Ships they’re culture with our included excursions and included in the price of their river cruise. surrounded by stylish, modern décor, with EmeraldPLUS activities, giving them authentic From return flights, to all on-board meals, every inch designed with comfort and experiences and ensuring they see the countless complimentary wine, beer & soft drinks with enjoyment in mind. highlights as they sail Europe’s rivers. lunch & dinner, onshore excursions and guided Guests can indulge in delicious and diverse On most of our Star-Ships we offer tours, complimentary on-board Wi-Fi and all dining in the Reflections Restaurant and enjoy complimentary bicycles†, allowing guests port charges, taxes and transfer costs. the cool river breeze with a glass of wine or to explore at their own pace. In addition, a crisp beer on the Sun Deck. Plus, unique our selection of EmeraldACTIVE included innovations like our heated indoor pool† that experiences are perfect for those seeking more transforms into an evening cinema. active excursions and activities. For more information, marketing support and training contact your dedicated trade team: 0161 233 1988 | agencysales@emeraldwaterways.com †Emerald Radiance on the Douro River does not have bicycles or an indoor pool/cinema, instead there is a spa-style Serenity Pool on the Sun-Deck. Emerald Waterways For full terms and conditions visit emeraldwaterways.co.uk. E&OE. Best River Cruise Line for Value StowawayMedia.com | 21
Cruising IN FRANCE 22 | RIVER DIARY | JANUARY 2019
THE RHÔNE AND SAÔNE JOURNEY: ALONG THE Rhône and Saône Top tip: One river is great but two is even better. Offer clients a FIND IT Michelin-starred Itineraries also call at Viviers, a once- combo pairing the Rhone with The Rhône rises in establishments or thriving town that now has just 1,000 the Seine. They are offered by Switzerland, flows Avalon Waterways, Uniworld so-called bouchon inhabitants and the smallest working into Southeast France River Cruises and APT. bistros that serve local cathedral in France, and Vienne, where and empties into the Lyonnais food. highlights include a 13,000-seat Roman Mediterranean south of amphitheatre and a temple built in honour Highlights in the city of Emperor Augustus and his wife Livia Arles. The Saône rises in include the white Basilica of more than 2,000 years ago. France. The two meet at Lyon, Notre Dame and remains of a nearby where the Saône flows into the Rhône. Roman theatre above the old town (tours In Arles, tours visit an even bigger Roman THE CRUISE will drive there but there is a funicular for amphitheatre with seating for 20,000 that Most are one-week sailings from Lyon to those exploring alone). Tours also visit is still used for concerts and plays, and pass Avignon or Arles or vice-versa that include Les Halles food hall and the traboules, scenes immortalised in oil by Vincent Van a couple of nights sailing the Saône as far the name given to alleyways built in Gogh when he lived in the town in 1888 as Chalon-sur-Saône. Some itineraries medieval times and hidden behind huge and 1889. operate round-trip from Lyon. A few wooden doors. include Paris at the start and end of the Some tours visit the asylum in St Remy cruise. The city sits at the confluence of the Rhône that he checked into after leaving Arles and and Saône. Head north towards Chalon- where he painted The Starry Night. A few GETTING THERE sur-Saône and there are excursions to also go into the Camargue, a region famous Lyon has its own airport; for Avignon Cluny, to see what remains of what was for cowboys, bulls and rice paddies. and Arles, passengers will fly in and out once the largest church in the world, and of Marseilles Airport, which is about an Beaune, where more than 500 years ago In Avignon, tours will likely visit the grand hour’s drive away. Clients can alternatively a hospital was opened to care for the poor Popes Palace, where seven pontiffs lived in travel by Eurostar train from London, and sick. It’s now a museum and one of the the 1300s, and head out to the Port du Gard, a transferring onto France’s high-speed TGV most visited sights in France on account of magnificent 160ft-high Roman aqueduct that train network in Paris. Journey time from its spectacular multi-coloured tiled roofs. was built almost two thousand years ago. Paris to Lyon is around two hours and from Head south on the Rhône and there are Those happy to go ashore alone, will Paris to Avignon just under three hours. days out in Tournon, a town across the find narrow streets to explore, mouth- WHAT TO SEE river from Tain L’Hermitage, where wine is watering produce in the Les Halles Lyon is France’s second-largest city and king. Naturally a tasting is on the cards, but market and what remains of the Pont the acknowledged gastronomic capital of there are also walking tours of Tournon and d’Avignon (it’s only half a bridge these France - some even say the world – for its several river cruise lines have guided cycle days because it was washed away so many multitude of restaurants including classy rides along the river. times they gave up rebuilding it). StowawayMedia.com | 23
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