SPOTLIGHT THE MILESTONE WATCHES OF CARTIER PRESENTED BY WATCHTIME MAGAZINE
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THE WORLD OF FINE WATCHES
SPOTLIGHT
www.watchtime.com
THE MILESTONE
WATCHES OF
CARTIER
PRESENTED BY
WATCHTIME
MAGAZINE
CARTIER
To those who love
fine jewelry, the
name Cartier has
always represent-
ed luxury and the
beautiful things in Stages of a colorful history
life. But there’s (clockwise): the firm’s
founder, Louis-François
more to this brand Cartier (1819–1904);
Alberto Santos-Dumont,
than jewelry. As a Cartier’s first wristwatch
customer; Cartier cigarette
maker of wrist- lighter; an advertisement
from 1988; Cartier’s store
watches, Cartier in London in 1909; the
manufacture caliber from
has been innova- the first central chrono-
graph (2009); Cartier rings;
tive in its designs a modern winding rotor
manufactured by Cartier
and technology
for well over a
century. Here we
visit 23 of its most
important accom-
plishments as a
watch brand.
CARTIER: By GisBert L. Brunner
The Milestones
MILESTONES
Cartier
1904/1911 1913/1928
SANTOS TORTUE
JEWELER LOUIS CARTIER (1875–
1942) was a perfectionist designer. When CARTIER UNVEILED the logical exten-
he stylistically emancipated the wrist- sion of the Tonneau in 1913. Unlike its
watch at the beginning of the 20th centu- elongated predecessor, this new model had
ry, this type of timepiece was still strug- a more compact shape and could accom-
gling to establish its right to exist. In this modate round movements with larger di-
era of pocketwatches, many people, espe- ameters. The new watch was appropriate-
cially men, were simply not interested in ly christened the “Tortue” because it re-
wearing watches on their wrists. But ex- minded people of a tortoise. Like the San-
ceptions prove the rule, and one such ex- tos, it had integrated strap lugs that clever-
ception was Alberto Santos-Dumont. ly extended the case’s arcing flanks. Start-
Born in 1873, this Brazilian bon vivant ing in 1928, Cartier equipped this watch
and his homemade flying machines were with an ultra-slim monopusher chrono-
the toast of Parisian high society. In 1904, graph movement: LeCoultre, the ébauche
the pioneering aviator complained to his specialist, had premiered its 11-ligne
friend Cartier that it wasn’t practical for a
pilot to consult a pocketwatch while flying
ébauche 11 JCCV one year previously in
1927. The European Watch and Clock 1917/1919
an airplane, and told him he believed he
could set new aviation records if a solution
to this problem could be found. That same
year, Cartier strapped a new timepiece
Co. delivered the completely assembled
movement. Automaker Edsel Ford was
among the many wearers of this innova-
tive chronograph.
TANK
around Santos-Dumont’s wrist. Two years LOUIS CARTIER MADE another impor-
later, the daredevil pilot, in his motorized tant contribution to the rise of the wrist-
“14-bis” aircraft, set new distance records watch during World War I. His design
while wearing this square-cased watch concept was sparked by the modern com-
with integrated strap lugs. It didn’t take bat tanks that English troops deployed in
long before other high-society types also the Battle of the Somme in 1916. Cartier
wanted to wear “Santos” models on their was so impressed by their martial appear-
wrists. A savvy businessman, Cartier be- ance that he used it as the template for a
gan making a small number of Santos
watches for privileged purchasers in 1908;
serial production followed in 1911.
1906 wristwatch, released in 1917, with a rec-
tangular case and elongated flanks. Ed-
mond Jaeger contributed to its creation.
TONNEAU The following year, to express his grati-
tude for the liberation of France, Cartier
gave the first few of these watches to Gen-
AT THE BEGINNING of the 20th centu- eral John Joseph Pershing, supreme com-
ry, wristwatches began differentiating mander of American troops in France, and
themselves from pocketwatches by bid- to other high-ranking officers in the U.S.
ding adieu to traditional round cases. Army. These military men could take
Fashion-oriented women, to whom the pleasure in the exclusivity of their new
wristwatch owes its genesis, were becom- wristwatches for only one year, however,
ing bored with round timepieces. Recog- because serial production of the Tank be-
nizing the tremendous potential, Cartier gan in 1919.
in 1906 presented a barrel-shaped watch
and called it the “Tonneau,” French for
barrel. Thanks to its cleverly designed
curvature, the case conformed to the con-
tours of its wearer’s wrist. The model pic-
tured dates from 1907.
MILESTONES
Cartier
1921 1922
TANK CLOCHE
CINTRÉE UNVEILED IN 1922 and repeatedly
modified in ensuing years, the Cloche
single lug at 12 o’clock and surrounded
a conventional dial; in the second ver-
attracted particular attention thanks to sion, the case and dial were turned 90
THANKS IN PART TO Louis Cartier’s its asymmetric case, which was shaped percent to the right. When the latter
contributions, the wristwatch grew in like a church bell. The Cloche (French model was taken off the wrist, it could
popularity. Between 1906 and 1918 alone, for “bell”) was usually made only by stand by itself, with one flat flank
his store on Rue de la Paix in Paris sold al- special request. Two versions were downward, atop a desk or nightstand.
most as many wristwatches as all other available: the case of the first version The version shown here, with vertically
timekeepers combined: customers bought was connected to its upper strap by a oriented case, was built in 1925.
2,789 wristwatches, compared to 3,119
pendant and brooch watches, pocket-
watches and table clocks. The unconven-
tional Tank was one of the best sellers, and
Cartier created a new evolution of this
model in the early 1920s: he stretched the
square case into an elongated rectangle
and gave it an attractive and practical cur-
vature so that the watch, despite its overall
length of more than 45 mm, was very
1928
comfortable to wear. The narrowness of
the case imposed strict limits on the di-
mensions of its hand-wound movement,
TANK À
which was supplied by the European
Watch and Clock Co. The dancer and ac- GUICHETS
tor Fred Astaire famously numbered
among the wearers of the Tank Cintrée. FOR CENTURIES, time displays had a
universal design: hands rotating above a
fixed dial. Eventually, innovative watch-
makers invented timepieces that indicated
the hours and minutes digitally, via printed
disks rotating beneath windows in the di-
al. The fronts of these watches’ cases could
now be made almost entirely of metal, so
watchmakers could dispense with the
large, flat and shatter-prone glass crystals.
The small apertures were also made of
glass, but small enough to withstand the
1922 hard knocks they’d encounter during vig-
orous sports. Cartier released the Tank à
Guichets in 1928. This rectangular watch
TANK CHINOISE was aimed primarily at customers who
regularly subjected their wristwatches to
rough treatment, so Cartier positioned the
JUST ONE YEAR after the debut of the beyond the case’s flanks. This design ele- vulnerable crown between the two upper
Tank Cintrée, Cartier launched the next ment called to mind the portals of Chinese strap lugs, where it was best protected
version of his rectangular watch. To ac- temples, so the new model – which con- against impacts. The model shown here
centuate the square shape of the original tained a 9-ligne, hand-wound movement – was sold to Sir Bhupinder Singh, the ma-
model, the two horizontal bars above and was given the name “Tank Chinoise” soon haraja of the former Indian principality of
below the dial were lengthened to extend afterward. Patiala.
MILESTONES
Cartier
1931 1943/1985
WATER-RESISTANT PASHA
WATCHES CARTIER STARTED OFFERING watch-
es with water-resistant cases in the 1930s,
but their insulating systems were so com-
NEEDLESS TO SAY, water resistance was that would prevent water from penetrating plex that the protection they offered lasted
an important topic at Cartier in the late at the sharp corners of a non-circular case. only a relatively short time. Although
1920s and early ’30s, when society’s upper To fully protect the movement, models like Louis Cartier died in 1942, his namesake
crust vacationed at the Côte d’Azur and this baguette watch from 1931 were given brand continued to strive for technical in-
other seaside spots. Rolex made its mark in an additional locking system for the manu- novation and design evolution. Realizing
this area in 1926, when patent protection al-winding components. One particularly that it was easier to ensure and sustain wa-
was granted to its water-resistant Oyster prestigious customer who ordered a time- ter-reistance in a round case, Cartier
case. In 1931, Cartier and its watchmaking piece of this type from Cartier in the mid- launched a round, gold model with central
partner Jaeger set out to create a rectangu- 1930s was the Pasha of Marrakesh, who strap lugs and a screwed back in 1943.
lar watch case with a similar level of water- wanted a wristwatch that he wouldn’t The crown had a protective locking mech-
resistance. It was much more difficult, of need to remove before taking a dip in his anism that could be screwed shut after the
course, to develop an insulating system swimming pool. owner had used the crown to wind the
watch or set its hands. To prevent the loss
of this protective cap, a small chain kept it
safely attached to the case. The crystal was
covered with a grille that resembled those
on military wristwatches from the World
War I era. Incidentally, the claim that this
watch was created to fill an order placed
by the Pasha of Marrakesh is nothing
1922 more than an oft-repeated fairytale. Not
until 1985, when Cartier began serial
manufacturing of this model, was it given
TANK BASCULANTE this name, though the Pasha was among
Cartier’s foremost aficionados in his day.
DURING THE ROARING TWENTIES,
the active lifestyles of Cartier’s deep-pock-
eted clientele posed enormous challenges
for the brand. Shattered crystals, broken
dials, and hands that fell off their staffs
were common problems. In 1926, Cartier
applied for a patent to protect the intellec-
tual property of its case-cum-bracelet con-
struction in which the crystal spent most
1960s/1986/1991
of its life facing safely toward the wrist,
but could also be briefly pivoted into full CRASH
view whenever the wearer wanted to read
the time. The system was simple but not ANOTHER LEGEND SURROUNDS the most famous works depicted limp, mis-
entirely practical, so Cartier and his expe- creation of Cartier’s “Crash” model, shaped and “melting” watches) had
rienced partner Jaeger went back to the culante” is French for “rocking”). The which has a case that looks as though it nothing whatsoever to do with the cre-
drawing board. Spécialité Horlogères SA new system let the watch’s wearer rotate had been smashed in a serious automo- ation of this wristwatch. Cartier pro-
was granted a patent in 1932 for a case the case through 180 degrees, thus quickly bile accident. Although its bizarre ap- duced only 15 pieces of the Crash in the
construction with a clever tilting mecha- putting the watch’s covered dial against pearance prompted would-be connois- 1960s. A second edition was added in the
nism, which was incorporated into a the wrist and out of harm’s way when, for seurs to nickname it the “Dalí,” the 1980s, followed by a limited edition of
watch called the “Tank Basculante” (“bas- example, its wearer played a round of golf. Spanish surrealist painter (one of whose 400 gold watches in 1991.
MILESTONES
Cartier
1973/1976 2002
LES MUST DE CARTIER TORTUE
CARTIER’S WATCH division was hit of Must’s CEO in 1973. Meanwhile,
MONOPOUSSOIR
hard when the brand split into three Cartier’s U.S. subsidiary had since 1971
houses (Paris, London and New York). A been selling a less expensive, gold-plated AS LATE AS 1998, Alain-Dominique Per- mechanical movement. Lacking its own
small revolution was the only solution. version of the Tank for $150 via a net- rin, who had since been promoted to pres- developmental capabilities, the brand
When Alain-Dominique Perrin joined work of somewhat dubious dealers. This ident of Cartier, was still focusing more on turned to the specialists at Techniques
Cartier Paris in 1969, he and then-presi- tarnished the brand’s image, which was his watches’ external design than on their Horlogèrs Appliquées SA (THA) in
dent Robert Hocq set out to revitalize the further harmed in 1976 by the sudden movements. This began to change in 2002 Sainte-Croix, Switzerland, who designed
business. In 1973, Perrin presented the appearance of large numbers of counter- with Cartier’s re-release of the Tortue a column-wheel caliber that was a mere
“Les Must de Cartier” concept, which feits. When the New York subsidiary re- monopusher. First unveiled in 1928, this 3.8 mm thick. Like its predecessor from
was intended to take into account the on- joined the Cartier family, Perrin put a historical chronograph had become a col- LeCoultre in 1928, hand-wound Caliber
going societal upheaval and the resulting stop to the questionable practice, but lectors’ item. For its 21st-century re-issue, 045 has a diameter of 24.8 mm. Cartier
change in the public’s attitude toward wasn’t willing to abandon Cartier’s Cartier did not settle for a run-of-the-mill holds all legal rights to it.
luxury goods. Twelve different watch flourishing business in America. His so-
models, initially available only in solid lution was the new Tank Must de Carti-
gold cases, were sold only in Cartier’s er, a watch with a gold-plated silver case,
“Must” boutiques and at selected jewel- manufactured in two different sizes and
ry stores. The new concept was success- selling for the relatively low price of
ful and Perrin was promoted to the post $500. The watch was a huge success.
2003
ROADSTER
CHRONOGRAPH
1978 CARTIER DECIDED to launch a sporty
version of the Tortue in 2001. With a
SANTOS SPORT date magnifier that extended over the
crown, the first Roadster wed tradition
with modernity. Cartier followed it up
TO FOLLOW UP the success of the Tank Santos Sport featured a steel case and with the release of a chronograph version
Must de Cartier, Robert Hocq and Alain- bracelet, a golden bezel, and an eye-catch- in 2003. The watch was equipped with
Dominique Perrin began developing an- ing design highlighted by the prominently an ETA automatic movement and three
other new model that would meld Carti- slit heads of numerous screws. This interchangeable wristbands: a steel
er’s easily recognizable design with a watch, with its automatic movement, was bracelet, a calfskin strap, and a sailcloth
soupçon of sportiness. They found the a hit, and soon distinguished itself as one strap. As one would expect of a watch in-
ideal candidate in the Santos. Until that the world’s most popular luxury wrist- spired by motorsports, its dial is
point, that model had been available on- watches. This model’s design, and its in- equipped with a tachymeter scale that
ly in precious-metal cases. But Cartier’s teresting history, prompted the Musée de works with the elapsed-seconds hand to
new philosophy of affordable luxury in- l’Air et de l’Espace in Paris to put the enable its wearer to quickly calculate av-
spired a strategic rethinking. The first watch on display. erage speeds.
MILESTONES
Cartier
2004 2008
SANTOS 100 SANTOS
IN 1904, when Louis Cartier presented the
Santos as the first watch conceived specif-
TRIPLE 100
ically for the wrist, large wristwatches, like
those of today, were nearly a century in the CARTIER HAS ALWAYS given ample at-
future. Small, fine, and, above all, elegant tention to its watch dials; after all, the dial
were the watch words. Cartier manufac- a customer chooses is the one he or she
tured only about 800 pieces of the Santos will have to live with for life, right? Not in
up through 1973. But the number of units the case of the Santos Triple 100, intro-
began a steady climb starting in 1978. To duced in 2008. This watch’s appeal derives
celebrate the 100th anniversary of the San- not only from its white-gold case, adorned
tos, Cartier unveiled the impossible-to- with numerous gemstones, but also from
overlook Santos 100, with its generous di- its unusual trilogy of dials. Thanks to
mensions of 42 by 51 millimeters, strap moveable prisms, a simple turn of the 100 in a somewhat less glamorous triple
lugs included. The movement is the reli- crown is all it takes to change from the version debuted soon afterward. It invites
able ETA 2892, which is produced in large classical Cartier look with Roman numer- its owner to choose between a black dial, a
series. The case is made of steel or gold or als, to a second dial totally encrusted with white dial, or a view into the skeletonized
a combination of both metals. diamonds and sapphires, to a third dial manufacture Caliber 9611 MC. In this in-
with a portrait of a tiger. Another Santos stance, the case is made of palladium.
2007
BALLON
BLEU DE 2009
CARTIER ROTONDE CENTRAL
CARTIER HAS always been known for
its watches with nontraditional (i.e., not
round) cases, but the brand introduced
CHRONOGRAPH
its own distinctive take on the round
watch with the introduction of the Bal- WITH THE ROTONDE de Cartier Cen- el is exclusively for the hours and min-
lon Bleu in 2007. Bernard Fornas, presi- tral Chronograph, Cartier’s designers utes; the middle is reserved for the
dent of Cartier until 2012, called the Bal- and watchmakers found a way to solve a elapsed chronograph minutes, which are
lon Bleu his brand’s most successful problem that besets conventional digitally indicated on a disk; and the top
watch, and said he regarded it as an icon- chronographs: namely, a chronograph’s level displays only the blue chronograph
ic model on a par with the Santos and the legibility is less than ideal because its seconds hand. All this is made possible
Tank. Like many other timepieces in hands sometimes overlap one another. by Cartier’s in-house column-wheel Cal-
Cartier’s history, the Ballon Bleu is con- On this watch, the hands that indicate iber 9907 MC, which is 25.6 mm in di-
sidered a unisex model. However, 70 per- the time never obscure the chronograph ameter, 7.1 mm thick, manually wound,
cent of all Ballon Bleu watches are worn hands because the displays are posi- and equipped with an energy-saving fric-
by women. tioned on different levels. The lowest lev- tion coupling.
MILESTONES
Cartier
2010 2011
ROTONDE ROTONDE ASTRORÉGULATEUR
ASTROTOURBILLON THE MOST IMPRESSIVE features of
this watch are ensconced inside its 50-
THE ROTONDE de Cartier Astrotourbil- mm-diameter case, which is light in
lon was one of the brand’s highlights of weight but high in performance because
2010. Its hand-wound movement runs it’s crafted from an alloy of titanium and
for 48 hours without re-winding. Caliber niobium. Four patents protect the mech-
9451 MC is 38 mm in diameter and 9 anism, which is not a tourbillon but nev-
mm thick. The balance oscillates at a ertheless compensates for the effects of
steady pace of 3 Hz while simultaneous- gravity on the movement. The fruit of
ly completing one orbit around the dial five years of development, its oscillating
every minute, thus serving as a seconds and escapement system, which is inher-
hand. In this way, the unconventional ently susceptible to positional changes, is
tourbillon does double duty. Five years borne atop a rotor with a heavy platinum
were invested in the developmental segment. Because of its heavy weight, the
work. The Rotonde’s gold case is 47 mm rotor always falls toward the Earth’s cen-
in diameter. ter, so fine adjustment in the hanging po-
sition was required only in one position
rather than in the usual four. The techni-
cal effort that resulted in this solution
was significant. An intelligent system
with two differential gear-trains compen-
sates for the relative velocities generated
by the to-and-fro motions of the escape-
ment assembly. The bipartite scale for
the seconds also moves along with the
rest of the assembly so the two-armed
seconds hand will always indicate the
2010
correct time. The twin mainsprings re-
ceive energy from the rotor in both its di-
rections of rotation. After these springs
are fully wound, the watch will continue
CALIBRE DE CARTIER to run for approximately 80 hours. The
entire movement requires about five
times as many components as a classical
TO MAKE ITS MARK in the watch while serving customers; only tourbillon.
competitive men’s watch male sales staff could wear the Calibre
market, Cartier needed a while at work. The exclusive, automatic
wristwatch with a boldly mas- Caliber 1904 PS MC indicates the sec-
culine touch. And that is precise- onds on a subdial and the date in a des-
ly what the brand presented in ignated window. Two barrels combine
2010 when it unveiled the Calibre de to provide about 48 hours of power re-
Cartier at the SIHH in Geneva. To en- serve. Cartier hoped that this powerful
sure the watch had no connection to movement would attract potential male
femininity, Cartier then-president customers to buy their first Cartier
Bernard Fornas issued an executive or- watch. The Calibre de Cartier collection
der instructing the saleswomen at Carti- has since expanded, with new models
er’s approximately 300 boutiques that have included a tourbillon and a
around the globe never to wear this chronograph.
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