ROAD TRIPS AMALFI COAST - Cristian Bonetto, Brendan Sainsbury - Lonely Planet
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
AMALFI
COAST
ROAD
TRIPS
Cristian Bonetto,
Brendan Sainsbury
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Symbols In This Book
Reviews
In the Destinations section: KTop Tips Food &
Drink
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ Link
preference, starting with their most Your Trips Outdoors
preferred option. Additionally:
Tips from Essential
Sights are arranged in the geographic Locals Photo
order that we suggest you visit them and,
within this order, by author preference. Trip Walking
Detour Tour
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by
price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, History &
within these ranges, by author preference. Culture 5 Eating
Family 4 Sleeping
Map Legend
Routes
Trip Route
Trips
Trip Numbers
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
Trip Detour
Linked Trip Trip Stop
r Beaches 5 Eating
Walk Route
Tollway Walking tour 2 Activities 6 Drinking
Freeway
Primary Trip Detour C Courses 3 Entertainment
Secondary
Tertiary Population T Tours 7 Shopping
Lane Capital (National)
Unsealed Road
Plaza/Mall
Capital
(State/Province)
z Festivals
& Events
Information
8 & Transport
Steps City/Large Town
Tunnel Town/Village
Pedestrian
Overpass Areas
Walk Track/Path Beach These symbols and abbreviations give
Cemetery vital information for each listing:
Boundaries (Christian)
International Cemetery (Other)
State/Province Park % Telephone # Pet-friendly
Cliff Forest number g Bus
Reservation
Hydrography Urban Area
h Opening hours f Ferry
River/Creek Sportsground p Parking j Tram
Intermittent River n Nonsmoking
Swamp/Mangrove Transport d Train
Canal Airport a Air-conditioning apt apartments
Water Cable Car/ i Internet access d double rooms
Dry/Salt/ Funicular
Intermittent Lake Metro station W Wi-fi access dm dorm beds
Glacier Parking s Swimming pool q quad rooms
Train/Railway
v Vegetarian selec- r rooms
Highway Markers Tram
tion
Autostrada s single rooms
State Highway E English-language
Regional Highway menu ste suites
Provincial Highway Note: Not all symbols c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
Other Road displayed above appear on
the maps in this book tw twin rooms
CONTENTS
West of Sorrento.............................78
PLAN YOUR TRIP Massa Lubrense..............................79
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi.............. 80
Marina del Cantone........................81
Welcome to the Amalfi Coast.......... 5
East of Sorrento............................. 82
Amalfi Coast Map............................. 6
Vico Equense.................................. 82
Amalfi Coast Highlights................... 8
Capri................................................ 83
Naples City Guide............................10
Amalfi Coast.................................... 85
Need to Know...................................12
Positano.......................................... 85
Praiano.............................................91
ROAD TRIPS Marina di Furore............................ 92
Amalfi.............................................. 92
Ravello..............................................97
1 Amalfi
Coast 7 Days............17 Minori.............................................101
Cetara.............................................102
2 Shadow
of Vesuvius 2–3 Days....... 27
Vietri sul Mare...............................103
3 Southern
Larder 3–4 Days....... 37
Salerno & the Cilento....................104
Salerno...........................................104
Cilento
4 Coastal Trail 4–5 Days....... 45 Paestum.........................................107
Agropoli .........................................109
Cilento Coast.................................110
DESTINATIONS Palinuro..........................................112
Naples & Pompeii........................... 54
Naples............................................. 54
ROAD TRIP
South of Naples............................. 64 ESSENTIALS
Herculaneum (Ercolano)............... 64
Mt Vesuvius.................................... 66 Italy Driving Guide.........................115
Pompeii............................................67 Italy Travel Guide..........................120
Sorrento & Around..........................72 Language....................................... 129
Sorrento............................................72 3©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS THIS BOOK
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson This 2nd edition of Amalfi Coast Road Trips was
BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map researched and written by Cristian Bonetto and
of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Brendan Sainsbury. The previous edition was
Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. written by Cristian, Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy,
Illustration pp68–9 by Javier Zarracina Robert Landon and Helena Smith. This guidebook
Cover photographs: Front: Atrani, Anna Biancoloto/ was produced by the following:
Shutterstock ©; Back: Ravello, Aygul Sarvarova/ Destination Editor Anna Tyler
Shutterstock © Senior Product Editor Elizabeth Jones
Regional Senior Cartographer
Anthony Phelan
Product Editor Katie Connolly
Book Designer Gwen Cotter
Assisting Editors Gabrielle Stefanos, Fionnuala
Twomey, Simon Williamson
Cover Researcher Meri Blazevski
Thanks to Will Allen, Imogen Bannister, Sasha
Baskett, Alexandra Bruzzese, Gemma Graham,
Martin Heng, Jenna Myers, Kirsten Rawlings, Joe
Revill, Sophia Seymour, Jo-Ann Titmarsh, Brana
Vladisavljevic
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and
a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and
Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime
– across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It
took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and
stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia
on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies.
Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin,
Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a
great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
131©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
INDEX
art 96 car insurance 115
A art galleries, see museums & car travel, see driving
accessible travel 121-2 galleries Castelcivita 47
Acciaroli 48‑9, 110‑11 ATMs 125‑6 Castellabate 48, 110
accommodation 13, 122‑3 Atrani 23 Castellammare di
activities, see individual Auditorium Oscar Stabia 34
activities Niemeyer 99 castles
Agerola 40 Castel Nuovo 58
Agropoli 47, 109 B Castello di Arechi 105
air travel 120 Baia di Ieranto 78, 81 Il Castello 109
Amalfi 9, 21‑3, 40‑1, 92‑7, 93 bathrooms 127 Catacombe di San
Amalfi Coast 17‑25, 85‑103, Biblioteca Nazionale di Gennaro 59
17, 18‑19 Napoli 58 cathedrals, see churches &
archaeological sites & ruins Blue Ribbon drive 21 cathedrals
Complesso Monumentale boat travel 120‑1 Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea
di San Lorenzo 21‑3, 92‑3
Bomerano 40, 94
Maggiore 55 caves
border crossings 116, 120
Herculaneum 29‑30, 64-5 Grotta Azzurra
Boscoreale 33, 66
Napoli Sotterranea 55 (Capri) 50, 83
budget 13, 58
Oplontis 32, 66 Grotta Azzurra
business hours 126 (Palinuro) 113
Paestum 42, 108
Parco Archeologico di Elea Grotta del Biscotto 94
Velia 50 C Grotta dello Smeraldo
Pompeii 9, 33‑4, 67-71, cable cars 83 40, 94
68-9, 70 Camo 24 Grotte di Castelcivita 47
Stabiae 34, 66 Campania Artecard 58 cell phones 13, 127
Terme Suburbane 65 Campi Flegrei 30 cemetries 59
Villa Jovis 83 Capo Palinuro 50 centro storico
Villa Romana Capodichino 64 (Sorrento) 73
Antiquarium 102 Cappella delle Crociate 105 Ceramica Artistica
architecture 60 Solimene 24
Cappella Sansevero 11,
area codes 127 54‑5 Certosa e Museo di San
Martino 11, 57-8
Capri 40, 83‑4
Cetara 24, 41, 102‑3
000 Map pages car hire 12, 115‑16
Chiostro del Paradiso 23
132churches & cathedrals discount cards 34, 58 Grotta Azzurra (Palinuro) 113
Basilica di Santa Chiara 54 diving 81, 109, 110 Grotta dello Smeraldo 40, 94
Cappella Sansevero 11, driving 115‑19, 120 Grotte di Castelcivita 47
54‑5 car hire 12, 115‑16 Gusta Minori 102
Cathedral (Ravello) 98 documents 115, 116
Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea driving licence 115 H
21‑3, 92‑3 emergency numbers 12, health 124‑5
Chiesa & Chiostro di San 127
Francesco 72‑3 Herculaneum 29‑30, 64‑5
fuel 12, 119
Chiesa di Santa Maria hiking
INDEX C-M
insurance 115
Assunta 85‑6 Capri 84
language 130
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Ravello 24
maps 116, 117
Grazia 79 Santa Maria del Castello
parking 118 Circuit 87
Chiesa di Santa Teresa a
road distances 119 Sentiero degli Dei 20, 94‑5
Chiaia 60
road rules 116, 117‑18 Sorrento Peninsula 78
Chiesa di Sant’Agata 80
safety 116‑17, 119 Spiaggia di Fornillo 91
Chiesa San Matteo
Apostolo 40 websites 117 holidays 126
Chiostro del Paradiso 94 Duomo (Naples) 55
Duomo (Salerno) 41-2, 104‑5
Duomo (Naples) 55 I
Duomo (Salerno) 41‑2,
insurance 115
104‑5 E internet access 13, 125
Duomo (Sorrento) 73 electricity 123‑4 Italian language 129‑30
Pio Monte della emergencies 12, 127
Misericordia 55‑6
Ercolano 64‑5
Cilento, the 45‑51, 110‑12 L
Cimitero delle Fontanelle 59 language 129‑30
climate 12
F LGBT+ travellers 125
Complesso Monumentale di ferries 120-1
festivals 59, 61
San Lorenzo Maggiore 55
food 13, 81, 110, 124
M
Complesso Monumentale di
football 63 Maggio dei Monumenti 59
Santa Chiara 54
fuel 12, 119 maps 116, 117
Conca dei Marini 40
Furore 21, 92 Marina del Cantone 20, 81‑2
Convento del Deserto 20, 80
Marina della Lobra 79
convents 20
Marina di Equa 82
costs 13, 58 G Marina di Furore 21, 92
accommodation 122 galleries, see museums & Marina Grande 73
food 124 galleries
Massa Lubrense 79‑80
credit cards 125‑6 gardens, see parks &
Massaquano 82
currency 12, 125 gardens
measures 121
gas 12, 119
medical services 124-5
D gay travellers 125
Mediterranean diet 110
dangers 116‑17, 119, 127 gelati 76
Minori 24, 101‑2
disabilities, travellers with Grotta Azzurra (Capri)
50, 83 mobile phones 13, 127
121-2
133Moiano 82 Museo Virtuale della Palazzo Murat 87
monasteries Scuola Medica Palazzo Reale 58
Certosa e Museo di San Salernitana 105 Reggia di Portici 29
Martino 11, 57‑8 Paestum museum 47, 108 Palinuro 50, 112‑13
Complesso Monumentale music 119 Parco Archeologico di Elea
di Santa Chiara 54 Velia 50
Convento del Deserto N Parco Nazionale del
20, 80 Cilento e Vallo di
Naples 10‑11, 28‑9, 54‑64, 56
Villa della Quercia 21 Diano 47
accommodation 11, 61
money 13, 125‑6 Parco Nazionale del
INDEX M-P
discount cards 58
Monte Panormo 47 Vesuvio 66
drinking 63
motorcycle travel, see parking 118
entertainment 63
driving parks & gardens
festivals & events 59‑61
Mt Vesuvius 31‑2, 66 Giardini di Augusto 84
food 11, 62‑3
museums & galleries Villa Cimbrone 98
itineraries 55, 60, 60
Basilica del Crocefisso 94 Villa Rufolo 23-4, 97-8
medical services 64
Camo Museum 24 passports 128
nightlife 63
Certosa e Museo di San petrol 12, 119
Martino 11, 57‑8 sights 11, 54‑9
Pimonte 39
Gallery Celentano 73 tourist information 11, 64
Pioppi 49‑50, 110, 111
Herculanense travel to/from 64
Pisciotta 50, 111
Museum 29 travel within 11, 64
planning 12-13
MADRE 57 walking tours 60, 60
Pompeii 9, 33‑4, 67-71,
MAV 65 Naples International Airport 68-9, 70
Museo Archeologico (Capodichino) 64
accommodation 71
Nazionale 11, 29, 54 Napoli Teatro Festival
food 71
Museo Archeologico Italia 61
sights 67‑71
Provinciale 105 Nastro Azzurro drive 21
tours 71
Museo Bottega della Tarsia national parks
travel to/from 71
Lignea 73 Parco Nazionale del
Cilento e Vallo di Portici 29
Museo Correale di
Diano 47 Poseidonia 107
Terranova 72
Parco Nazionale del Positano 9, 20, 85-90, 86
Museo del Corallo
Camo 100 Vesuvio 66 accommodation 88
Museo del Palazzo Nocelle 21, 95 activities 85‑7
Reale 58 drinking 90
Museo della Carta 94 O food 88‑9
Museo della Ceramica nightlife 90
opening hours 126
24, 103 sights 85‑7
Oplontis 32, 66
Museo dell’Osservatorio tourist information 90
Vesuviano 30-1 travel to/from 90
Museo di Capodimonte P Postiglione 47
11, 58‑9 Paestum 42, 46‑7, 107‑9 Praiano 20‑1, 91‑2
palaces public holidays 126
Palazzo Mannajuolo 60
000 Map pages
134Sorrento 19, 34, 38‑9, tourist information 128
R 72‑8, 74 train travel 121
radio 119 accommodation 75-6 transport 13, 120‑1
Ravello 23‑4, 97‑101, 98 activities 73 trekking, see hiking
Ravello Festival 99 drinking 77 TV 121
Reggia di Portici 29 festivals & events 73
road rules 116, 117‑18 food 76‑7 V
nightlife 77
vacations 126
shopping 78
S Velia 50
INDEX R-W
sights 72‑3
safety 116‑17, 119, 127 Vesuvius 31‑2, 66
tourist information 78
Sagra del Tonno 102‑3 Vico Equense 19, 39, 82
travel to/from 78
Salerno 41-2, 104‑7, 106 Vietri sul Mare 24, 103
travel within 78
San Giovanni a Piro 50 Villa Cimbrone 98
Spiaggia della Gavitelli 91
San Marco di Castellabate Villa della Quercia 21
Spiaggia di Fornillo 91
110‑11 Villa Jovis 83
Spiaggia Grande 87
Sandulli, Paolo 96 Villa Romana
SS163 21 Antiquarium 102
Santa Maria del Castello
82, 87 Stabiae 34, 66 Villa Rufolo 23-4, 97-8
Santa Maria di Castellabate visas 12, 128
47‑8, 110 T
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi
19‑20, 80-1
taxes 122 W
Teatro San Carlo 11, 63 Walk of the Gods 20, 94‑5
Sapri 50 telephone services 13, 127 walking, see hiking
Scala 24 temples walking tours 60, 60
Seggiovia del Monte Paestum 42, 108
Solaro 83 weather 12
Tempio di Cerere 47, 108 websites 13
Sentiero degli Dei 20,
Tempio di Nettuno 47, 108 accessible travel 121
94‑5
time 121 driving 117
Settimana Santa 73
tipping 13, 125 LGBT+ travellers 125
Sicignano degli
Alburni 47 toilets 127 tourist information 128
Slow Food movement 88 Torello 24 weights 121
smoking 121 Torre a Mare 96 wi‑fi 13, 125
soccer 63 torta ricotta e pera 105 wine 29, 126
135©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR
WRITERS
CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY
Despite being the son of Born and raised in the UK in
northern Italians, Cristian a town that never merits a
has an enduring weakness for mention in any guidebook
Naples and Campania. It took (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan
one visit as a young backpacker spent the holidays of his youth
to get him hooked, and the Australian-born writer has caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t
been covering the region’s food, culture and lifestyle leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time,
for more than a decade. According to Cristian, no he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes
Italian city quite matches Naples’ complexity and precarious existence as a writer and professional
intrigue, and its ability to constantly surprise and vagabond. In the last 12 years, he has written more
contradict makes it a thrill to write about. The writer’s than 40 books for Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba
musings have appeared in publications across the to the canyons of Peru.
globe, and his Naples-based play Il Cortile (The
Courtyard) has toured numerous Italian cities.
Cristian has contributed to more than 30 Lonely
Planet guides, including Venice & the Veneto, New
York City, Denmark and Singapore. You can follow
Cristian’s adventures on Twitter (@CristianBonetto)
and on Instagram (@rexcat75).
Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited
CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-
2nd edition – Jun 2020 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
ISBN 978 1 78657 568 5 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-
© Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
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