Organic Cotton - An Overview - By: D.Gopalakrishnan
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
Organic Cotton – An Overview
By: D.Gopalakrishnan
1
Organic Cotton – An Overview
By: D. Gopalakrishnan
Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Institute of Textile Management, 1483, Avanashi road,
Peelamedu, Coimbatore – 641 004 Email: dgk_psgtech@yahoo.co.in
Cotton is the basic resource for thousands of consumer and industrial products
manufactured in throughout the world, and the contribution made by cotton to the food and
fiber industry continues to grow in importance. Cotton grown without the use of any
synthetically compounded chemicals (i.e. pesticides, growth regulators, defoliants, etc.) and
fertilizers is considered as 'organic' cotton. But it cannot be claimed as organic unless it is
certified as organic. Organic production can be defined in many ways but organic agriculture
is an ecological production management system that promotes and enhances biodiversity,
biological cycles and soil biological activity. It is based on minimal use of off-farm inputs and
on management practices that restore, maintain and enhance ecological harmony.
Organically raised cotton is gradually winning over new ground both on the farm and in the
marketplace. No toxins or synthetic fertilizers are used. Organic cotton is produced without
the use of harsh chemical bleaches or dyes, and is allergy free. Natural fertilizers, a compost
and soil amendment are used, and advances in natural pest control, such as ladybugs which
destroy harmful insects, have helped make raising organic cotton a viable enterprise. Organic
cotton clothing, unheard of a few years ago, is now available in many stores and online
businesses. A wide variety of products made from organically grown cotton is now available:
shirts and pants, socks, underwear, skirts and blouses, sheets and pillowcases, towels and
bathrobes. The range of styles can be somewhat limited, but new styles are being developed
to keep pace with the growing demand for organic cotton clothing.
Address for the Communications: 4/138, Middle shop street, Pattanam (post),
Ondipudur – via, Coimbatore – 641 016, Mobile: 0 9865853305
1. Introduction
Organic cotton is grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the
environment. Organic production systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use
of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilizers, and build biologically diverse agriculture.
Third-party certification organizations verify that organic producers use only methods and
materials allowed in organic production.
The conventional cultivation of cotton leads to massive environmental and
health problems. Around the world, more toxic insecticides are used on cotton than on
any other crop. A sustainable alternative is the certified organic cultivation of the
"white gold". The farmers have only a chance to convert their production into a
controlled organic cultivation of cotton if there is sufficient demand for organic
cotton. Consumers interested in the sustainable use of clothes and textiles will find the
opportunity to search for producers and retailers.
Cotton sold as "organic" must be grown according to the federal guidelines for
organic crop production. Soil fertility practices that meet organic certification
standards typically include crop rotation, cover cropping, animal manure additions,
and use of naturally occurring rock powders. Weed management is accomplished by a
combination of cultivation, flame weeding, and other cultural practices. A wide
variety of insects attack cotton. Management options include trap cropping, strip
cropping, and managing border vegetation to encourage high populations of native
beneficial. Certain biopesticides using bacteria, viruses, and fungal insect pathogens
are available as insect control tools.
2
1.1. The Problem with Conventional Cotton Production
Cotton provides about half of all global fibre requirements. In addition to the six big
producers (US, China, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Turkey) cotton is produced in over 60
countries. It is an important source of income for millions of small farmers and contributes
significantly to the national economy of many developing countries. The size of the global
cotton-growing area has not changed much since the 1930s but average yields have
increased threefold through the intensive use of synthetic chemicals, irrigation and the use of
higher-yielding plant varieties. Conventional cotton is very prone to insect attacks and large
quantities of the most toxic insecticides are used in its production. Cotton accounts for about
25% of the global insecticides market by value and about 10% of the pesticides market. The
intensive use of toxic insecticides and other toxic chemicals in cotton has caused serious
health and environmental impacts, including farmer and farm worker poisonings, water
contamination and bird and fish kills.
1.2. Organic Cotton Can Bring Health and Environmental Improvements
The negative impacts of chemical-intensive agricultural production, that momentum
for change has grown considerably in recent years. The trend toward more environmentally
friendly production methods is supported by a variety of interests including farmers wanting to
escape the chemical treadmill, enlightened companies under pressure of increased
environmental regulation and competition, and informed consumers calling for greater social
and environmental accountability. The burgeoning consumer interest in organic food
production has now expanded into other areas of organic production including cotton fibre
produced in organic systems.
Organic cotton is produced in organic agricultural systems that produce food and fibre
according to clearly established standards. Organic agriculture prohibits the use of toxic and
persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers, as well as genetically modified organisms. It
seeks to build biologically diverse agricultural systems, replenish and maintain soil fertility,
and promote a healthy environment.
1.3. Certification of Organic Cotton
Certification of organic cotton production adds credibility to the final product assures the buyer
of the organic status of the product and encourages payment of premium prices to farmers
who engage in organic practices. Certification is a system which sets standards, ensures that
organic standards are met and communicates compliance to consumers through appropriate
labeling. When a grower or processor is "certified organic," an independent organization has
verified that the company meets or exceeds defined organic standards. Certified organic
farms are inspected regularly and must maintain comprehensive records of their production
methods.
Certification programmers and standards vary, especially in response to regional
differences, although there are general underlying concepts. The International Federation of
Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM) has produced Basic Standards covering organic
production and also textile processing which provide a minimum basis upon which standards
in many countries have been based. The International Organic Accreditation Service (IOAS)
also exists to accredit certification systems. There are many certification agencies worldwide
for organic cotton production but far fewer for certifying cotton processing to assure reduced
health and environmental impacts. Several sets of processing standards exist in Europe and
others are being developed in Europe and in the United States.
31.4. Cotton production by the organic process
In all stages of cotton production the organic process uses natural alternatives to conventional
chemical intensive means:
1.4.1. Seed Preparation
Conventional seed preparation the seeds are usually treated with fungicides and
insecticides, in many cases using genetically modified (GM) seeds. The organic processes
seek alternative chemical free solutions to insecticides (as mentioned below) and use
untreated non-GM seeds.
1.4.2. Soil Quality
Synthetic fertilizers are applied to the soil in conventional cotton farming, where there
is usually a mono-crop farming culture. Organic farming encourages naturally productive sold
as a result of crop rotation, and does not rely on synthetic fertilizers to boost yield.
1.4.3. Watering
Far less water is used in the production of cotton on organic farms, where organic
matter is used in the soil to retain water efficiency rather than rely on the intensive irrigation
required on conventional farms.
1.4.4. "Pest" Control
Conventional farming heavily relies on toxic pesticides and insecticides to control
"pests", often using blanket aerial spraying techniques that can drift onto neighboring
farmland and wildlife. Organic control methods recognize beneficial insects and maintain a
balance between "pests" and their natural predators to aid a healthy. Natural soil
environment.
1.4.5. Weed Control
Organically farmed land employs the physical removal of weeds and continues to
control weeds through cultivation and hand hoeing. The organic approach eliminates the need
for the mass of chemical herbicides used in conventional cotton farmland.
1.4.6. Harvesting
Organic methods wait for defoliation to occur from natural seasonal freezing, or
stimulate defoliation through water management. Conventional farming defoliates through the
use of toxic chemicals.
Organic farming improves the soil fertility, is better for wildlife and causes less pollution
from sprays. Raw materials such as leather and skins would have to be produced to Soil
Association standards. And no system of farming has higher levels of animal welfare
standards than organic farms working to our standards. The sustainable farming practices
used to grow organic cotton do not pollute groundwater, surface water, soil, or air. In fact, soil
quality is actually improved by the production of organic cotton. Organic cotton is safer for
farmers, for the environment, and for all the other creatures.
2. Organically raised cotton
Organically raised cotton is gradually winning over
new ground both on the farm and in the marketplace. No
toxins or synthetic fertilizers are used. Organic cotton is
produced without the use of harsh chemical bleaches or
dyes, and is allergy free. Natural fertilizers, a compost and
soil amendment are used, and advances in natural pest
control, such as ladybugs which destroy harmful insects,
have helped make raising organic cotton a viable enterprise.
Organic cotton clothing, unheard of a few years ago, is now
available in many stores and online businesses.
4A wide variety of products made from organically grown cotton is now available: shirts and
pants, socks, underwear, skirts and blouses, sheets and pillowcases, towels and bathrobes.
The range of styles can be somewhat limited, but new styles are being developed to keep
pace with the growing demand for organic cotton clothing.
3. Organically colored cotton
Colored dyes are still a problem, even with organically grown cotton. Dyes are toxic
chemicals, and their use and disposal has harmful effects on the environment. New methods
are being developed to address this problem. Organically colored cotton is being developed
to address this problem, and earth tones are now available which use no dyes whatsoever.
Today, colored cotton is grown "on the stem" in shades of brown, reddish brown, green and
yellow. The cost of naturally colored cotton is also estimated at 20 to 40% lower than
chemically dyed cotton. Colored cotton is also suitable for chemically sensitive people. Color-
grown cotton doesn’t fade like dyed does; the color will actually deepen when you wash it.
4. Recycled Cotton
Recycled Cotton is another more earth-friendly choice in cotton clothing. Recycled
cotton is cotton fabric which has been made from recovered
cotton that would otherwise be cast off during the spinning,
weaving or cutting process. A trade name for recycled cotton is
Eco Fibre; there are no harsh chemicals used in the processing
of this fabric. The clothing business is big business, and there is
big resistance to change from chemically-dependent processes
to organic processes of clothing manufacture. The bottom line is
demand. Manufacturers will do what the consumer dictates, and
so the change to environmentally responsible, organic cotton
clothing begins with you the consumer.
5. Benefit of Organic process
Organic agriculture protects the health of people and the planet by reducing the
overall exposure to toxic chemicals from synthetic pesticides that can end up in the ground,
air, water and food supply, and that are associated with health consequences, from asthma to
cancer. Because organic agriculture doesn't use toxic and persistent pesticides, choosing
organic products is an easy way to help protect the people. Acreage estimates for the 2005
U.S. cotton crop show approximately 6,577 acres of certified organic cotton were planted in
the United States. Internationally, Turkey and the United States are the largest organic cotton
producers. Demand is being driven by apparel and textile companies that are expanding their
100% organic cotton program and developing programs that blend small percentages of
organic cotton with their conventional cotton products.
6. Importance of organic cotton production
Organic Cotton is buttery-soft, and gets even softer with each washing. It's stronger
and more durable than most other fabrics. Color-grown cotton (un dyed) actually gets bolder
in color over time. Organic Cotton is a better long-term value than other fabrics and the future.
Cotton uses approximately 25% of the world's insecticides and more than 10% of the
pesticides (including herbicides, insecticides, and defoliants.). (Allan Woodburn) It takes
roughly one-third of a pound of chemicals (pesticides and fertilizers) to grow enough cotton
for just one T-shirt. (SCP)
7. Involvement of apparel industry with organic cotton
Apparel companies are developing programs that either use 100 percent organically
grown cotton, or blend small percentages of organic cotton with conventional cotton in their
products. There are a number of companies driving the expanded use of domestic and
international organic cotton. As a result of consumer interest, organic cotton fiber is used in
everything from personal care items (sanitary products, make-up removal pads, cotton puffs
and ear swabs), to home furnishings (towels, bathrobes, sheets, blankets, bedding),
children's products (toys, diapers), clothes of all kinds and styles (whether for lounging, sports
or the workplace), and even stationery and note cards. In addition, organic cotton seed is
used for animal feed, and organic cottonseed oil is used in a variety of food products,
including cookies and chips.
5Conventional cotton is often promoted as a "natural" product; however, it is one of the
most heavily sprayed crops, utilizing more than 25% of all the insecticides in the world--yet it
is farmed on only 3% of the world's farmland. In the USA alone, an estimated 800 million
pounds of pesticides are used on cotton each year. In addition, conventional cotton textile
manufacturing involves bleaches, formaldehyde, and other chemical finishes, as well as other
chemical processes. Almost 1/3 pound of synthetic chemicals is utilized for each pound of
conventional cotton. Traces of these chemicals remain in the finished product, even after
repeat washings. The chemicals used to grow conventional cotton may have serious adverse
effects on human health and the environment.
Organic cotton farmers tend to grow on a smaller scale and do not use expensive
harvesting machines or large quantities of chemicals like conventional cotton growers. As a
result of farming organically, some farmers are reporting higher incomes. Organic cotton is
grown on a smaller scale and is generally handpicked. This a more accurate way of
harvesting than using machinery - allowing workers to select the best quality cotton. Organic
farming improves the soil fertility, is better for wildlife and causes less pollution from sprays.
8. Genetic Modified Cotton
There are two main types of GM cotton, one is herbicide tolerant and one has insect
resistance. Monsanto is the main developer of GM cotton globally. The same problems are
emerging with GM cotton as with other GM crops: the use of sprays is not necessarily
reduced; pesticide resistance is a possibility, as is contamination with other crops. No GM
products will be allowed in organic textiles.
9. Need ness of Organic processed cotton
The textiles industry is one of the largest polluters in the world. We need an alternative.
One that is not dangerous and doesn’t cause such destruction to our environment. Around a
quarter of the world’s insecticides are used to grow conventional cotton and at least 8,000
chemicals are used to turn raw material into clothes, towels, bedding and other items that we
put next to our skin every day. Shockingly, some of the most widely used chemicals have
been associated with cancers and birth defects. And some have hormonal and reproductive
effects - for example male fish when exposed to certain chemicals have started to develop
female characteristics.
While finished goods made from polyester, nylon, etc. are generally cheap, due to
artificially maintained low petroleum prices, the actual cost to the environment of acquiring,
transporting refining and manufacturing these materials is seldom taken into account by
consumers. The amount of water and energy resources alone, if known, would turn off many
buyers. Factor in the pollution these processes cause.
9.1. Pesticides kill more than pests
Today's pesticides are very effective. However,
to be as effective as they are, they're extraordinarily
strong, and long lived. They pollute the ground for years,
draining it of natural nutrients, forcing the use of more,
and more dangerous, fertilizers and eventually making it
unsuitable for farming use. This is the heart of
"unsustainable" agriculture. The pesticides pollute the
groundwater, making its way to health problems at
extreme risk for cancer and many other diseases. The
bleach is even worse than the pesticides. These are not
short-term problems. Once these pesticides are
introduced, they'll be around for three generation to deal
with.
10. The Expanding Organic Cotton Market
Organic cotton is now grown in 18 countries but still represents only a tiny fraction of
the total global cotton production - less than 0.1%. The biggest producers in 2001 were
Turkey, the United States, India and Peru. There are also signs that organic cotton is moving
out of its niche market into the mainstream with increased interest on the part of
supermarkets and large companies. Some clothing and textile companies are becoming
interested in blending small quantities of organic cotton with conventional cotton. Purchase of
organic cotton for such programs expands organic agricultural production.
6Market retail leaders in after 2000 were Patagonia (USA - specialist outdoor clothing
company), Coop Schweiz (Switzerland - all types of clothing), Nike (USA - sports clothing),
Otto (Germany - large mail-order company) and Hess Natur (Germany - medium sized mail-
order company), other well known retailers such as Marks and Spencer (UK) or Migros
(Switzerland) are following. With Organic Exchange, there is another US-based movement
aiming to encourage more and more mainstream garment and textile companies to use
organic cotton. In addition, there are a large and increasing number of small companies
involved. The range of products available has also increased and their diversity. Products
now include all kinds of clothing for men, women and children, personal and healthcare
products, home furnishings (mattresses, bedding, bath items, table linens and accessories)
and fabrics, toys and nappies (diapers) - and even stationery and other paper goods.
The textile sector in general is facing price competition as never before. Many companies are
seeking comparative advantage in the quality of their products and in 'greening' themselves -
and organic cotton is a way of achieving these objectives. The challenge is to communicate
the health and environmental benefits of organic cotton production and processing to
consumers so that their interest will be expressed in their buying preferences.
Conclusion
Organic cotton farmers tend to grow on a smaller scale and do not use expensive
harvesting machines or large quantities of chemicals like conventional cotton growers. As a
result of farming organically, some farmers are gain higher incomes. Organic cotton is
produced in organic agricultural systems that produce food and fibre according to clearly
established standards. Organic agriculture prohibits the use of toxic and persistent chemical
pesticides and fertilizers, as well as genetically modified organisms. It seeks to build
biologically diverse agricultural systems, replenish and maintain soil fertility, and promote a
healthy environment. Further market development through greater consumer awareness and
scaling up production to meet increasing market demands are the next chapters in the
organic cotton story.
References
Allen Woodburn Associates Ltd. /Managing Resources Ltd., "Cotton: The Crop and its
Agrochemicals Market," 1995.
American Crop Protection Association, "1997 Total U. S. Sales by Crop Protection
Product Type and Market," 1998 ACPA Industry Profile.
California Department of Pesticide Regulation, "DPR Releases Data on 1999
Pesticide Injuries," 2001.
Sustainable Cotton Project, "Cleaner Cotton Campaign Tool Kit," Oroville, CA.
U. S. Department of Agriculture, "Agricultural Chemical Usage: 2003 Field Crop
Summary."
U. S. Environmental Protection Agency, "List of Chemicals Evaluated for
Carcinogenic Potential," 2001.
Organic Trade Association. 2003. 2003 Beltwide Presentation, Organic Cotton:
Production and Marketing Trends in the United States and Canada - 2001 and 2002.
Organic Trade Association. 2004. 2003 U.S. Organic Cotton Production & the Impact
of the National Organic Program on Organic Cotton Farming.
http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/summaries/cotton.html
Organic Consumers Association "Fact Sheet on U.S. Cotton Subsidies and Cotton
Production"
http://www.ota.com/organic/mt/organic_cotton.html
http://www.pan-germany.net/baumwolle/en/hintergrund.htm
7 http://www.icac.org/cotton_info/tis/organic_cotton/documents/english.html
www.organiccottonalts.com
http://www.i-sis.org.uk/OCBBCI.php
About the author:
I am doing PG Diploma in Home Textile Management.i did my Diploma in
Textile Technology & B.Tech in Textile Technology from PSG College of
Technology & Polytechnic College. After my diploma I worked as a
Production & maintenance Supervisor in Cambodia Mills (NTC)
Coimbatore, after three years of experience I came back to my B.Tech.I
did 17 paper presented in various technical symposiums, national &
international confrences in all over india and i participated in various
technical workshops & innovative project works. I published several
articles in journals,magazines.
Area of Interest: innovative textiles, Technical textiles
Coimbatore-641 004, Email dgk_psgtech@yahoo.co.in
To read more articles on Textile, Fashion, Apparel, Technology, Retail and General please
visit www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article
To promote your company, product and services via promotional article, follow this link:
http://www.fibre2fashion.com/services/featrued-article/featured_article.asp
8You can also read
