Of Th e Costumes Royal India - Exhibiting Fashion
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The
Costumes
of
Royal
India
Exhibition Checklist
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Modem India
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Costumes
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Royal
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A checklist to the exhibition
at The Costume Institute,
December 20, 1985, through
August 31, 1986
0 Ibim»m- i f - » * ' ' " - *—
HE MEÌnoPÒUTAN MUSFMM
OF ART '• .ARCHIVES
This exhibition is made possible by The Christian Humann Foundation and Ratti S.p.A. Additional support has been received from Air India and Mr. and Mrs. Vincente Minetti. Copyright® 1986 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Bradford D. Kelleher, Publisher John P. O'Neill, Editor in Chief Barbara Burn, Editor Michael Shroyer, Designer Printed and bound in the United States of America
Introduction The rich costume tradition of
India has long fascinated
Consideration must also
be given to the pragmatic
visitors and scholars alike. aspects of living in the Indian
How can it be that a nation climate. The geography of
actively contributing to and India varies remarkably from
participating in the modern the lush, green, mountainous
world has retained forms of regions of Kashmir to the hot,
dress as ancient as its arid lands of what is now
civilization? What is it in the Rajasthan, to the tropical
Indian cultural heritage that jungles of the south.
supports and sustains the use Temperature and humidity
of traditional clothing? In fact, shift dramatically from day to
there is no segment of Indian night and from region to
culture that does not reflect region. The wonderful
the depth and diversity of its warmth of the Kashmiri shawl
heritage and the varied is as welcome against the cool
traditions of its people. But in air of a desert evening as it is
costume we find a unique against the chill of higher
aspect of that culture, one that mountain elevations. The
lives today as vitally as it did saree and the turban, on the
generations ago. In ceremo- other hand, are unshaped
nies and festivals that mark lengths of fabric worn in such
special events, particular a way that, while the body is
attention is always paid to cos- protected from the heat of
tume, yet even the everyday direct sunlight, cooling air can
dress of Indian men and be captured and circulated
women is clearly based on through the folds of the
styles developed many years fabric. A number of costumes
earlier. in the exhibition are made of
O n e reason for the cotton, a fiber known for its
continuity of Indian costume advantages in hot weather.
is certainly the importance of The sheer cotton fabric called
textiles in the history of India, mull was manufactured in
which has produced exquisite India during the eighteenth
fabrics for both export and and nineteenth centuries and
domestic purposes for can be seen in the translucent
centuries. In fact, the white coats worn by princes in
Handicraft and Handloom many miniature paintings of
Export Company of India, a the time, as well as in Western
development agency of the European fashion.
Indian government, in order Social and religious life in
to support and encourage India also play an important
textile production of the part in the styles used for
highest quality, commissioned Indian clothing, which is
sarees especially for this exhi- comfortable and easy to wear
bition, a fine demonstration of compared to the restrictive,
the continuing tradition of tailored clothing of the West.
skilled weaving. Indian garments accommodate
the bending and kneeling unique costumes could not can represent the joining of
required by religious practices have been created The cos- the rivers Jumna and Ganges,
and the routines of everyday tumes in the exhibition, there- or it may symbolize the sun
life. The amount of cloth used fore, feature the.splendid and the moon. A motif
for draping the body and nature and diversity of the familiar to us in the Western
wrapping the head enables one royal courts of India, but they world is the paisley, which
to determine the wealth and also reveal characteristics was named after a town in
status of the wearer, as can shared by all Indian people—a Scotland where shawls imitat-
the style of wrapping. The love of symbolic color and ing those made in Kashmir
richness of the fiber, the color ornamentation, a preference were woven commercially.
and amount of decoration, and for motifs taken from nature, This motif in India can mean
the intricacy of the textile and a taste for the qualities of three different things—the
design also indicate the reflected light. mango, which implies abun-
wearer's social position. The Tradition is at the very dance; the almond, which
Costumes of Royal India readily heart of Indian costume. Not indicates good health; and the
reveals, through the sumptu- only have styles of dress sarpech, or turban ornament
ous display of silks, gold and persisted largely unchanged, worn by the ruler, to which
silver threads, and jewels, the but their symbolic and belong all the good attributes
extraordinary privilege spiritual functions have also of royalty. By incorporating
enjoyed by the ruling families. been retained. We have the paisley motif into a
As plans for the Festival sought, in the context of this costume, the maker seeks to
of India, a series of exhibitions exhibition, to explore some of invest the wearer with auspi-
celebrating Indian art and these traditional relationships. cious wishes for an abundant
culture held in the United For example, the first gallery life, good health, and good
States during 1985, were here represents the festival of character.
being formulated, and as the Divali, marking the financial The importance of nature
participation of The Metropol- New Year, which takes place in Indian life is also revealed in
itan Museum of Art was being in late October or early costume design. The color of
determined, the decision was November, after the monsoon the violet gallery represents
made to include in the Cos- season. During this festival, the fruit of the jamon tree,
tume Institute exhibition only the women of Rajasthan wear which in turn symbolizes the
costumes worn by the princely black costumes trimmed in holy scriptures of India. This
families. We wished to exhibit gold, silver, and red, and they is also one of the colors of the
examples of the very finest dance before the ruler, asking twilight that follows the
craftsmanship to be found in him to intercede with the gods monsoon. Indian culture is
the remarkable textiles and to ensure a bountiful harvest. deeply rooted in the shared
embroideries for which India Colors and motifs experience of natural pheno-
had been famed for centuries. decorating Indian costumes mena; the heat of the desert
The very existence of crafts- have symbolic as well as and jungle, the monsoon, and
men who wove textiles of fine decorative functions. Red, a the cycles of the sun, moon,
cotton, beautiful silk, and dye obtained from madder, and planets all play a role in
precious metals was depend- penetrates fiber deeply and forming Indian attitudes
ent on the wealth and patron- thus represents the love of toward life and art.
age of these families. Without Krishna and Radha, making it In this exhibition, we have
the demand generated by a an appropriate color for Hindu attempted to show the context
lifestyle of the greatest lux- brides. The use of both gold of Indian court life for which
ury, such skilled crafts would and silver in a piece of these costumes were made. In
not have developed and these embroidery or on a costume galleries devoted to women's
costumes, there is no more stronger in India. In particular, also gives the opportunity to
than one man represented, the influence of British civil express our appreciation to
because in the palace women uniforms can be seen in the the many individuals who
lived in the zenana, or women's style of the later embroideries. made such generous loans and
quarters, and the only man It is interesting to note, who gave so willingly of their
allowed to enter was the ruler however, that in this instance, time and talents to this
himself. In the gallery devoted as with the introduction of fourteenth exhibition con-
to men's costume, there are no so many other foreign ideas, ceived and organized by Diana
women present—they would the craftsmen absorbed the Vreeland. We would like to
have observed the men's essence with a traditionally express our deep gratitude to
ceremonies but from behind Indian interpretation, there- Bhawani Singh of Jaipur,
pierced screens in the by creating a composite without whose spontaneous
women's quarters. Only the expression. and unhesitating support this
rustle of silk or the glitter of The exhibition does not exhibition would not have
gold through the screens seek to represent all of India, been possible. O u r thanks are
would indicate their presence. or even a majority of the five due as well to the Develop-
Another aspect of Indian hundred princely states. ment Commission of Hand-
costume that the exhibition Rather, it seemed important to looms of the government of
seeks to demonstrate is the focus on the area of India India for its support and to the
diversity of styles. Often we where the political and HHEC of India for having
think of the saree as the most economic power had been administered the project so
common type of Indian concentrated for hundreds of completely. There can be no
clothing, but in fact styles years and where a strong adequate way to acknowledge
vary considerably from region tradition of patronage existed. the enormous contribution of
to region and according to the So it was in the northern Martand Singh, whose scho-
religious customs of the states that most of the larship and vision have been of
people. Muslim women wear costumes for the exhibition immense value to the devel-
bifurcated garments, meaning were to be found. opment of the exhibition, and
that pyjamas, or trousers, must Although the ruling our special gratitude also goes
be worn or that skirts must be families resigned their to the families who provided
divided, much like Western hereditary powers when India us with access to their per-
culottes. The same type of gained independence, they sonal wardrobes and store-
coat, the angarkha, is worn by continue to participate actively houses, from which many of
both Muslim and Hindu men, in the political and cultural life these extraordinary costumes
but the Muslims place the of India as private citizens. and objects have come.
opening on the left side, the Within their families, on
Hindus on the right. special occasions such as wed-
Although the majority of dings, many of the women still
the costumes in the exhibition wear the costumes on display Jean L. Druesedow
date from the late nineteenth here, not only because they Associate Curator in Charge
and early twentieth centuries, are appropriate and tradi- The Costume Institute
there are a few examples tional, but also because they
nearly a hundred years older are festive and beautiful.
which provide an opportunity This booklet, prepared
for us to observe the changes from label copy in the exhibi-
that took place in design and tion, is intended to serve as a
ornamentation as the influ- guide through the galleries as
ence of Western Europe grew well as a permanent record It
flowers and circles, striping in
Entrance Stairway Yellow Gallery gold ribbon appliqué
Photographs (counterclockwise from right) Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
(New Delhi)
Maharaja of Nabha Woman's Costume from Sikar
Woman's Costume from
c. 1880 20th century
Chamba
Dupatta (veil) of black cotton
20th century
Maharaja of Jodhpur embroidered with gold
Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton
c. 1880 metallic thread with red
trimmed with red silk and gold
paisley corner appliqués and
and silver ribbon appliqué
Maharaja of Alwar red trimming; matching kurti
Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
c. 1880 (tunic) and choli (bodice) with
(New Delhi)
gold trimming and floral
Maharaja of Rewa appliqués; matching lahenga
Mandap (canopy) from
C. 1880 (skirt) with gold ribbon
Gujarat
appliqué striping and border
19th century
Raja of Deo and Son Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
Elephants, apraras (female
c. 1880 (New Delhi)
celestial beings), and finials of
silver; poles of silver on wood
Maharaja of Baroda Child's Costume from Lent by Makwan Arts Private
C. 1880 Chamba Ltd. (Gujarat)
20th century
Begum of Bhopal Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton
Lamps from Jaipur
C. 1880 striped and appliquéd in gold
19th century
and silver ribbon
Silver
Nawab of Bahawalpur and Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
Lent by Bhawani Singh of
Attendant (New Delhi)
Jaipur
c. 1880
Child's Costume from
Woman's Costume from
Young Prince from Central Chamba
Chamba
India 20th century
20th century
c. 1880 Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton
Kurta (tunic) of black cotton
trimmed with metallic gold striped and trimmed in gold
Maharani of Baroda and and silver ribbon appliqué and silver ribbon appliqué
Ladies Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
c. 1910 (New Delhi) (New Delhi)
Maharana of Ihalawar Woman's Costume from
Woman's Costume from
f. 1880 Chamba
Chamba
20th century
19th century
Maharaja of Gwalior Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton
Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton
f. 1880 trimmed in red silk and gold
with gold, red silk, and silver
ribbon appliqué
ribbon appliqué and
Artist unknown Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
embroidery in gold metallic
Maharaja of jodhpur (New Delhi)
thread
O i l o n canvas
Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
Lent by Gaj Singh of Jodhpur Woman's Costume from
(New Delhi)
Chamba
20th century
Kurta (tunic) of black cotton
with vertical pattern of
cotton striped with gold Woman's Costume from
Violet Gallery appliqué Kashmir
(clockwise from left entering Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari Early 20th century
from Yellow Gallery) of Kotah Dupatta (veil) of yellow-
orange silk with silver ribbon
Woman's Costume from Woman's Costume from Sikar appliqué; Dogra kurta (tunic)
Chamba 20th century of yellow-orange velvet
20th century (dupatta and pyjama); Dupatta (veil), kurti (tunic), embroidered with metallic
19th century (peshwaz) choli (bodice), and lahenga silver
Dupatta (veil) of pink silk (skirt) of magenta silk striped Lent by Mrs. Yasho Karan
appliquéd and trimmed in gold and trimmed with gold ribbon Singh (New Delhi)
ribbon; peshwaz (coat) of appliqué
magenta silk satin Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Woman's Costume from
embroidered with gold (New Delhi) Kashmir
metallic thread; pyjama Early 20th century
(trousers) of jade green and Woman's Costume from Dupatta (veil) of pink silk
pink striped cotton Kotah embroidered in gold with gold
Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Early 19th century (odhini, kanchli, ribbon appliqué; Dogra kurta
(New Delhi) and ghagara); late 19th century (tunic) of magenta silk with
(kurti) metallic gold embroidery;
Woman's Costume from Odhini (shawl), kurti (tunic), pyjama (trousers) of green silk
Chamba kanchli (bodice), and ghagara striped in red
20th century (dupatta and pyjama); (skirt) of yellow cotton Lent by Mrs. Yasho Karan
19th century (peshwaz) embroidered with gold ribbon Singh, New Delhi (kurta and
Dupatta (veil) of yellow silk appliqué pyjama); Tikka Rani of Nabha
with multicolored silks, and Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari (dupatta)
gold and silver ribbon of Kotah
appliqué; peshwaz (coat) of Woman's Costume from
yellow silk embroidered in Tilly Kettle Kashmir
silver metallic thread; pyjama British, 1735-1786 Early 20th century
(trousers) of green and yellow Young Woman with Hookah Dupatta (veil) of orange
striped silk Oil on canvas, 1772 chiffon with silver appliqué;
Lent by the Yale Center for Dogra kurta (tunic) of orange
Lent by Hem Singh, Bangalore
British Art, New Haven, The silk satin embroidered in
(dupatta); HHEC of India Ltd.,
Paul Mellon Collection silver; pyjama (trousers) of
New Delhi (peshwaz and
pyjama) blue silk striped with red
Woman's Costume from Lent by Mrs. Yasho Karan
Woman's Costume from Chamba Singh (New Delhi)
Kotah 20th century (dupatta and pyjama);
Early 20th century 19th century (kurta) Woman's Costume from
Odhini (shawl), kurti (tunic), Dupatta (veil) of lavender silk Rampur
kanchli (bodice), and ghagara with gold ribbon appliqué; Late 19th century
(skirt) of orange cotton kurta (tunic) of brown silk Dupatta (veil) of gold tissue
embroidered in gold ribbon with floral designs in gold embroidered and appliquéd in
appliqué embroidery; pyjama (trousers) gold; matching waistcoat and
Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari of yellow and red striped kurta (tunic); Farshi pyjama
cotton (very long culotte) of purple
of Kotah
Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. and gold silk brocade banded
Child's Costume from Kotah (New Delhi) in gold, orange, and green
Mid-20th century Lent by Mrs. Saba Ahmed
Angarkha (coat) of orange (New Delhi)
Woman's C o s t u m e from Bed S w i n g from Gujarat Woman's C o s t u m e from
Rampur 19th century Amritsar
Early 20th century Wood covered in silver Early 20th century
D u p a t t a (veil) of c r e a m chiffon Lent by M a k w a n A r t s Private D u p a t t a (veil) of m a g e n t a silk
e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h r u b y and Ltd. (Gujarat) jacquard e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h
emerald beads in crescent- gold metallic t h r e a d and gold
m o o n p a t t e r n , gold metallic Throne Cover ribbon appliqué border; k u r t a
t h r e a d , gold appliqué b o r d e r , 19th century (tunic) of blue silk w i t h silver
and fringe; k u r t a (tunic) of Gold, pink, and g r e e n silk ribbon appliqué; pyjama
pale g r e e n silk e m b r o i d e r e d to brocade ( t r o u s e r s ) of pink silk striped
m a t c h d u p a t t a ; Farshi pyjama Lent by Jam S a h e b S h a t r u with green
(very long culotte) of deep red Shalya Singhji of J a m n a g a r Lent by M r s . Yasho K a r a n
silk satin e m b r o i d e r e d in gold Singh ( N e w Delhi)
metallic t h r e a d including a Hookah
b a n d of sun motif 19th century Child's C o s t u m e from Nabha
Lent by M r s . H a m a n a Silver Mid-20th century
K h a t o o n (Pirpur) Lent by B h a w a n i Singh K u r t a (tunic) of pink silk satin
of Jaipur brocaded in w h i t e and
Woman's C o s t u m e from lavender w i t h gold e m b r o i d e r y
Lucknow Man's C o s t u m e from Gwalior and ribbon appliqué; m a t c h i n g
Early 20th century Early 20th century pyjama (trousers) and k a n t o p
D u p a t t a (veil) of g r e y silk A n g a r k h a (coat) of o r a n g e and (hat)
tissue w o v e n with silver, w i t h gold silk tissue brocaded in Lent by B e g u m M e h t a b
gold c u t w o r k , gold appliqué, gold w i t h e m b r o i d e r y in gold Z a m a n i Ali K h a n ( R a m p u r )
and gold sequins; k u r t a (tunic) and silver metallic t h r e a d and
of grey silk w i t h gold sequins Woman's C o s t u m e from
e m b r o i d e r y and sequins; Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. Chamba
Farshi pyjama (very long (New Delhi) 20th century (dupatta and pyjama);
culotte) of peach silk satin 19th century (peshwaz)
w i t h gold e m b r o i d e r y a n d Woman's C o s t u m e from P e s h w a z (coat) of m a g e n t a silk
sequins Jaipur satin e m b r o i d e r e d in gold
Lent by M r s . H a m a n a Mid-19th century metallic t h r e a d , pearls, and
K h a t o o n (Pirpur) D u p a t t a (veil) w i t h a t t a c h e d emeralds; pyjama (trousers) of
saree and g h a g a r a (skirt) of beige and m a g e n t a striped silk
Woman's C o s t u m e from blue tie-dyed c o t t o n t r i m m e d Lent by H H E C of India Ltd.
Rampur in gold ribbon appliqué N e w Delhi (dupatta and
Mid-20th century Lent by B h a w a n i Singh pyjama); H e m Singh,
D u p a t t a (veil) of violet silk of Jaipur Bangalore (peshwaz)
chiffon w i t h gold e m b r o i d e r y
and b o r d e r , gold fringe; k u r t a Woman's C o s t u m e from Woman's C o s t u m e from
(tunic) of violet silk with gold Jaipur Chamba
e m b r o i d e r y ; Farshi pyjama Late 19th century (dupatta); mid- 20th century (dupatta and pyjama);
(very long culotte) of red- 19th century (kanchli and ghagara) 19th century (peshwaz)
violet and gold silk brocade D u p a t t a (veil) of gold fabric; D u p a t t a (veil) of bright pink
w i t h b a n d s of g r e e n , pink, and kanchli (bodice) of r u s t - silk e m b r o i d e r e d in gold;
purple satin, gold e m b r o i d e r y colored cotton appliquéd w i t h p e s h w a z (coat) of b r o w n silk
and appliqué gold metallic t h r e a d and satin jacquard e m b r o i d e r e d
Lent by M r s . N o o r K h a n fringe; m a t c h i n g g h a g a r a w i t h peacock motifs in gold
(New Delhi) (skirt) p a t t e r n e d in gold metallic t h r e a d ; pyjama
Lent by Bhawani Singh ( t r o u s e r s ) of blue striped silk
of Jaipur Lent by H H E C of India Ltd.
( N e w Delhi)t r i m m e d w i t h gold braid Pair of Nagara (war drums)
Blue Gallery w o v e n w i t h o r a n g e and blue from Gujarat
(clockwise from left e n t e r i n g Lent by B h a w a n i Singh Mid-18th century
from Violet Gallery) of Jaipur Copper
Lent by M a k w a n A r t s Private
Man's C o s t u m e from Patiala Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur Ltd. (Gujarat)
19th century Early 19th century
C h o g a (coat) of p u r p l e velvet A n g a r k h a (coat) of b r i g h t pink Throne Cover and C u s h i o n s
appliquéd w i t h large motifs of and gold silk brocade t r i m m e d Early 20th century
metallic gold e m b r o i d e r y a n d w i t h gold ribbon w o v e n w i t h Blue-green velvet e m b r o i d e r e d
multicolored velvets p u r p l e and o r a n g e w i t h metallic gold, pearls, and
Lent by A m r i n d e r Singh of Lent by B h a w a n i Singh semiprecious s t o n e s
Patiala of Jaipur Lent by Jam S a h e b S h a t r u
Shalya Singhji of J a m n a g a r
Man's C o s t u m e from
Man's C o s t u m e from Benares
Sanganer
Late 19th century Thomas Daniel
Early 19th century
C h o g a (coat) of purple silk British, 1749-1840
Bagalbandhani (coat) of beige
brocaded in gold metallic Sir Charles Warre Malet, Bart, the
quilted c o t t o n w i t h purple,
thread British Resident at the Court of
g r e e n , red, a n d w h i t e p a t t e r n
Lent by S h r i m a t i G o u r i Poona, in the year 1790, concluding
in handblock p r i n t
P a r w a t i Bayi ( T r i v a n d r u m ) a treaty in Durbar, with Souac
Lent by M e h r e n g a r h Fort
Madarow, the Peshwa or Prince of
M u s e u m (Jodhpur)
Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur the Mahratta Empire
Late 19th century Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur Oil on canvas
C h o g a (coat) of m a g e n t a , Early 19th century Lent by Colonel Sir E d w a r d
purple, and gold silk brocade C h o g a (coat) of g r e e n c o t t o n Malet, Bart. O.B.E.
with woven borders and printed and quilted
paisley motifs Lent by B h a w a n i Singh Man's C o s t u m e from Kotah
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh of Jaipur Mid-19th century
of Jaipur A t u m s u k h (robe) of red silk
Man's C o s t u m e from Kotah satin brocaded in gold
Man's C o s t u m e from Benares Mid-19th century Lent by Shri C. B h a r a n y
Late 19th century A t u m s u k h (robe) of red silk ( N e w Delhi)
C h o g a (coat) of p u r p l e silk satin brocaded w i t h gold
brocaded in gold metallic Lent by Shri C . B h a r a n y Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur
t h r e a d and m a g e n t a silk ( N e w Delhi) Late 19th century
Lent by S h r i m a t i G o u r i A t u m s u k h (robe) of yellow
P a r w a t i Bayi ( T r i v a n d r u m ) Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur silk satin brocaded w i t h red
Late 19th century and g r e e n
Tilly Kettle A t u m s u k h (coat) of red and Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
British, 1735-1786 metallic gold silk brocade of Jaipur
Shuja-ud-Daula of Oudh Lent by H H E C of India Ltd.
Oil o n c a n v a s , c. 1772 ( N e w Delhi) Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur
Lent by t h e Yale C e n t e r for Late 19th century
British A r t , N e w H a v e n , T h e Child's C o s t u m e from Jaipur B a g a l b a n d h a n i (coat) of g r e e n
Paul Mellon Collection Mid-19th century silk satin brocaded w i t h red
A n g a r k h a (coat) of red and and gold
Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur gold silk brocade t r i m m e d Lent by Shri C. B h a r a n y
Early 19th century w i t h gold ribbon w o v e n in ( N e w Delhi)
A n g a r k h i (coat) of deep-pink o r a n g e and p u r p l e
and gold silk brocade w o v e n in Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
vertical zigzag p a t t e r n , of JaipurMan's C o s t u m e from Jaipur Man's C o s t u m e from Punjab semiprecious s t o n e s in floral
Early 19th century or Afghanistan pattern
A n g a r k h a (coat) of dark pink, 19th century Lent by H H E C of India Ltd.
g r e e n , and gold silk brocade C h o g h a (robe) of multicolored ( N e w Delhi)
w o v e n in stripes and t r i m m e d silk and metallic gold brocade
w i t h gold braid w o v e n w i t h on b r i g h t blue satin g r o u n d Man's C o s t u m e from
o r a n g e and purple Lent by T R H Prince and Hyderabad
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh Princess Michael of G r e e c e Early 20th century
of Jaipur C h a u b a g h l a (coat) of gold
fabric e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h gold
Janet Hawkins metallic t h r e a d ; pyjama
Portrait of Maharaja Duleep Singh Red Gallery (trousers) of m a g e n t a and gold
of Elveden, after Winterhalter (clockwise from left e n t e r i n g silk brocade
Oil on canvas from Blue Gallery) Lent by B e g u m N a h e e d
Lent by O s c a r de la R e n t a Fazaluddin K h a n (Hyderabad)
Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur Child's C o s t u m e from Child's C o s t u m e from
Mid-19th century Hyderabad Chamba
A n g a r k h i (coat) of quilted Early 20th century 20th century
g r e e n silk satin brocaded w i t h P e s h w a z (coat) of silver fabric C h o g a (coat) of d e e p - r e d
o r a n g e , blue, and w h i t e , e m b r o i d e r e d in gold metallic velvet e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h gold
t r i m m e d w i t h gold ribbon t h r e a d and beetle-back metallic t h r e a d , pearls, and
w o v e n w i t h o r a n g e and purple Lent by Sahibzadi Moinissa semiprecious s t o n e s in floral
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh B e g u m (Hyderabad) pattern
of Jaipur
Lent by H H E C of India Ltd.
Child's C o s t u m e from ( N e w Delhi)
Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur
Rampur
Mid-19th century
Early 20th century Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur
A n g a r k h a (coat) of ivory silk
K u r t a (tunic) of pale pink and Early 19th century
brocaded w i t h gold, g r e e n , and
gold silk brocade e m b r o i d e r e d Kaba (coat) of d a r k - b l u e silk
coral; pyjama (trousers) of
w i t h gold metallic t h r e a d , seed brocaded in silver and gold
pink and gold striped brocade
pearls, and colored metallic w i t h fur collar, t r i m m e d w i t h
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
t h r e a d ; pyjama (trousers) of gold ribbon w o v e n w i t h
of Jaipur
g r e e n silk satin e m b r o i d e r e d in o r a n g e and p u r p l e
Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur gold Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
Mid-19th century Lent by Begum M e h t a b of Jaipur
A n g a r k h i (coat) of red silk Z a m a n Ali K h a n ( R a m p u r )
satin brocaded with yellow Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur
and g r e e n and t r i m m e d with Cradle from Jodhpur Early 19th century
gold ribbon w o v e n w i t h blue 19th century A n g a r k h i (coat) of metallic
and o r a n g e ; pyjama (trousers) Wood covered with m i r r o r s ; gold silk brocaded w i t h silver,
of yellow silk brocaded in silver and gold brocade red, and g r e e n
silver, red, and g r e e n bolsters Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh Lent by M e h r e n g a r h Fort of Jaipur
of Jaipur M u s e u m (Jodhpur)
Carpet from Surat
Chair Child's C o s t u m e from 19th century
19th century Chamba C o t t o n with metallic gold
Silver r e p o u s s é on carved 20th century embroidery
wood; u p h o l s t e r e d seat and C h o g a (coat) of deep-red Lent by Jam S a h e b S h a t r u
back velvet e m b r o i d e r e d with gold Shalya Singhji of J a m n a g a r
10 Lent by Nesle Inc. metallic t h r e a d , pearls, andMan's C o s t u m e from Jaipur t r i m m e d w i t h gold and silver Man's C o s t u m e from Gwalior
Mid- 19th century metallic t h r e a d e m b r o i d e r y Early 20th century
A n g h a r k h i (coat) of quilted and sequins; sadri (vest) of A n g a (coat) of w h i t e silk
violet silk brocaded in silver, pink and silver silk tissue brocaded in gold, e m b r o i d e r e d
gold, and red, t r i m m e d w i t h t r i m m e d w i t h silver metallic w i t h gold and silver metallic
gold ribbon w o v e n w i t h braid t h r e a d and sequins; sadri
o r a n g e and purple floral Lent by Shri M a d h a v Rao (vest) of w h i t e and silver silk
pattern Scindia of G w a l i o r brocade t r i m m e d w i t h silver
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh metallic braid and silver
of Jaipur Man's C o s t u m e from Gwalior paillettes
Late 19th century (dupatta); early Lent by Shri M a d h a v R a o
Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur 20th century (anga and sadri) Scindia of Gwalior
Early 19th century D u p a t t a (veil) of yellow-
A n g a r k h i (coat) of black, red, o r a n g e and gold striped silk Woman's C o s t u m e from
and gold silk brocade t r i m m e d tissue; anga (coat) of o r a n g e Bharatpur
w i t h gold braid w o v e n w i t h and gold silk jacquard t r i m m e d Early 20th century
o r a n g e and purple w i t h gold metallic t h r e a d and O d h i n i (shawl), choli (bodice),
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh silver and gold sequins; sadri and g h a g a r a (skirt) of red and
of Jaipur (vest) of peach and gold floral gold silk brocade w i t h animal
silk jacquard t r i m m e d w i t h motifs and gold, g r e e n , and
Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur gold metallic braid and sequins red b o r d e r
Early 19th century Lent by Shri M a d h a v Rao Lent by Tikka Rani of N a b h a
Kaba (coat) of purple silk Scindia of G w a l i o r
brocaded w i t h silver, red, and Woman's C o s t u m e from
gold w i t h fur collar, t r i m m e d Zari Patta (belt) from Gwalior Jaipur
w i t h gold ribbon w o v e n w i t h Early 20th century Early 20th century
o r a n g e and purple Gold silk tissue G h a g a r a (skirt) of yellow silk
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh Lent by Shri M a d h a v Rao satin e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h gold
of Jaipur Scindia of G w a l i o r and silver metallic t h r e a d and
gold sequins
Man's C o s t u m e from Gwalior Man's C o s t u m e from Gwalior Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
Early 20th century Early 20th century of Jaipur
D u p a t t a (veil) of pale peach D u p a t t a (veil) of light b l u e -
c o t t o n w i t h metallic gold g r e e n c o t t o n and silk Palki (carriage) from Jaipur
brocade border; anga (coat) of c r o s s b a r r e d w i t h gold and 19th century
offwhite silk tissue striped in silver w i t h gold brocade Wood covered in silver and
silver and gold and t r i m m e d border; anga (coat) of gold silk gold; red velvet c u s h i o n s and
w i t h gold and silver metallic tissue brocaded in silver, gold, bolster, gold fringe
e m b r o i d e r y , w i t h b r i g h t pink and multicolored silks in leaf Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
b o r d e r s ; sadri (vest) of gold motif, and t r i m m e d w i t h gold of Jaipur
and w h i t e silk brocade and silver metallic e m b r o i d e r y
t r i m m e d in gold metallic braid and sequins; sadri (vest) of Woman's C o s t u m e from
w i t h m a g e n t a and gold striped gold, cream, and blue silk Jaipur
border brocade t r i m m e d with gold Early 20th century
Lent by Shri M a d h a v R a o braid G h a g a r a (skirt) of pale pink
Scindia of Gwalior Lent by Shri M a d h a v Rao silk satin e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h
Scindia of G w a l i o r gold and multicolored metallic
Man's C o s t u m e from Gwalior t h r e a d and sequins
Early 20th century Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
D u p a t t a (veil) of pink cotton of Jaipur
w i t h silk metallic gold border;
anga (coat) of pink silk 11Woman's Costume from Woman's C o s t u m e from Elephant Howdah from Jaipur
Jaipur Kotah 19th century
Early 20th century Early 20th century Wood covered in silver and
G h a g a r a (skirt) of blue silk D u p a t t a (veil) of red silk gold; red velvet u p h o l s t e r y
satin e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h gold e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h gold ribbon e m b r o i d e r e d in s u n and lion
and multicolored metallic appliqué and multicolored motifs of metallic gold
t h r e a d and sequins, b o r d e r silks; k u r t i (tunic), kanchli Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
design of birds, fish, and (bodice), and g h a g a r a (skirt) of of Jaipur
peacocks b l u e - g r e e n silk e m b r o i d e r e d in
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh star p a t t e r n of gold ribbon Elephant Trappings from
of Jaipur appliqué Jamnagar
Lent by S h r i m a t i Shiv K u m a r i Early 20th century
Woman's C o s t u m e from of Kotah
Kotah Gold c o t t o n w i t h floral
Jaipur e m b r o i d e r y and multicolored
Early 20th century Woman's Costume from tassels
G h a g a r a (skirt) of pale blue- Kotah Lent by Jam S a h e b S h a t r u
g r e e n silk satin e m b r o i d e r e d Early 20th century Shalya Singhji of J a m n a g a r
w i t h gold and multicolored O d h i n i (shawl) of red
metallic t h r e a d and sequins g e o r g e t t e e m b r o i d e r e d and
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh b o r d e r e d in gold ribbon
of Jaipur appliqué; g h a g a r a (skirt) of red
silk satin e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h Coral Gallery
Woman's C o s t u m e from gold ribbon appliqué and (clockwise from left e n t e r i n g
Jaipur multicolored silk t h r e a d from Red Gallery)
Early 20th century Lent by S h r i m a t i Shiv K u m a r i
G h a g a r a (skirt) of yellow silk of Kotah
satin e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h gold Elephant Howdah
and silver metallic t h r e a d and Woman's Costume from 19th century
sequins Chamba Wood covered w i t h silver;
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh First half 20th century y e l l o w - o r a n g e satin
of Jaipur D u p a t t a (veil) of g r e e n silk u p h o l s t e r y , yellow and red
w i t h gold ribbon appliqué; satin flounce, gold and silver
Woman's C o s t u m e from k u r t a (tunic) of m a g e n t a silk brocade bolsters
Jaipur w i t h gold ribbon appliqué, Lent by M e h r e n g a r h Fort
Early 20th century gold e m b r o i d e r y and sequins; M u s e u m (Jodhpur)
G h a g a r a (skirt) of pink silk pyjama (trousers) of p u r p l e
satin e m b r o i d e r e d with gold and yellow striped silk Representative Shoes of India
and silver metallic t h r e a d and Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. Lent by Bata S h o e M u s e u m
sequins (New Delhi) ( T o r o n t o ) , Begum M e h t a b
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh Z a m a n i Ali K h a n ( R a m p u r ) ,
of Jaipur Elephant Trappings from B h a w a n i Singh of Jaipur, and
Jaipur Shri M a d h a v Rao Scindia
Child's C o s t u m e from Nabha 19th century (Gwalior)
Mid-20th century Silver and silver gilt w i t h lion
K a n t o p (hat), k u r t a (tunic), s c u l p t u r e s and plaques Francesco Renaldi
and pyjama (trousers) of r e p r e s e n t i n g Lord G a n e s h a , British, 1755-1799
e m e r a l d - g r e e n silk d a m a s k K r i s h n a and Radha, Lord Indian Girl with Hookah
w i t h gold metallic t h r e a d R a m a , t h e sun, t h e m o o n , a Oil on canvas, 1789
e m b r o i d e r y and ribbon peacock, and t h e goddess Lent by t h e Yale C e n t e r for
appliqué Laxmi British A r t , N e w H a v e n , T h e
Lent by Begum M e h t a b Lent by B h a w a n i Singh Paul Mellon Collection
12 Z a m a n i Ali K h a n ( R a m p u r ) of JaipurWoman's Wedding C o s t u m e (trousers) of pale blue silk Woman's C o s t u m e from
from Rampur satin e m b r o i d e r e d and Jaipur
Early 20th century t r i m m e d in gold metallic 18th century
D u p a t t a (veil) and k u r t i (tunic) t h r e a d a n d sequins G h a g a r a (skirt) of gold
of b r o n z e and gold silk tissue Lent by S h r i m a t i Brijraj Singh metallic fabric e m b r o i d e r e d
e m b r o i d e r e d in gold metallic of K o t a h w i t h silver paillettes and
t h r e a d , banded by gold beetle-back
e m b r o i d e r y and silver and gold Woman's C o s t u m e from Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
metallic fringe; Farshi pyjama Kotah of Jaipur
(very long culotte) of light- Early 20th century
g r e e n and gold c o t t o n brocade O d h i n i (shawl) of pink and Elephant Howdah
banded in red, yellow, g r e e n , gold silk tissue w i t h gold 19th century
a n d p u r p l e heavily e m b r o i d e r y and sequins; Wood covered w i t h silver; red
e m b r o i d e r e d in floral and fish- kanchli (underbodice) of velvet c u s h i o n s , yellow and
scale designs in gold metallic o r a n g e silk and gold metallic red flounce
thread brocade w i t h multicolored silk Lent by M e h r e n g a r h Fort
Lent by Begum M e h t a b and metallic gold e m b r o i d e r y M u s e u m (Jodhpur)
Z a m a n i Ali K h a n ( R a m p u r ) and sequins; m a t c h i n g k u r t i
(tunic) and g h a g a r a (skirt) Robert H o m e
Henry Jamyn Brooks Lent by S h r i m a t i Shriv British, 1752-1834
British, b. c. 1865 K u m a r i of K o t a h King Chazi-ud-din Haidar of Oudh
The Last Ceremony, Lord Roberts at Oil o n c a n v a s , c. 1820
Osborne Woman's C o s t u m e from Lent by J e a n - P i e r r e M a r q u e ,
Oil on canvas, c. 1901 Kotah London
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Early 20th century
O d h i n i (shawl), k u r t i (tunic), Elephant Howdah from
Woman's C o s t u m e from kanchli (bodice), and g h a g a r a Gujarat
Lucknow (skirt) of gold silk tissue 19th century
Late 19th century e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h gold Wood covered in silver; red,
D u p a t t a (veil) and k u r t a metallic t h r e a d and red silk gold, and silver brocade
(tunic) of pale-pink and gold Lent by S h r i m a t i Shriv cushions
tissue w i t h gold c u t w o r k , gold K u m a r i of K o t a h Lent by M a k w a n A r t s Private
appliqué, and gold and silver Ltd. (Gujarat)
fringe; Farshi pyjama (very Man's C o s t u m e from Benares
long culotte) of pink and gold 19th century Woman's C o s t u m e from
flowered silk brocade with Achkan (coat) of metallic and Hyderabad
wide lower band of g r e e n satin yellow fabric e m b r o i d e r e d 20th century
e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h gold and w i t h beetle-back and gold Khada d u p a t t a (veil) and choli
silver metallic t h r e a d metallic t h r e a d (bodice) of pink and gold silk
Lent by M r s . H a m a n a Lent by S h r i m a t i G o u r i tissue e m b r o i d e r e d w i t h gold
K a h t o o n (Pirpur) P a r w a t i Bayi ( T r i v a n d r u m ) sequins and t r i m m e d w i t h
sequined gold braid
Suite of Furniture Dupatta (veil) from Jaipur Lent by M r s . Z a i n a b K h a n
19th century Late 19th century (Hyderabad)
S e t t e e and t w o chairs of silver Deep rust-red cotton woven
r e p o u s s é on carved wood; w i t h diagonal gold stripes and
u p h o l s t e r e d seat and back appliquéd w i t h gold paisleys,
Lent by Nesle Inc. gold sequins, and fringe
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
Child's C o s t u m e from Kotah of Jaipur
Mid-20th century
A c h k a n (coat) and pyjama 13Woman's Costume from Lent by Tikka Rani of Nabha Representative Turbans from
Hyderabad (odhini and kurta); HHEC of Rajasthan
20th century India Ltd., New Delhi (pyjama) 20th century
Khada dupatta (veil) of red Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
and gold silk tissue bordered Woman's Costume from (New Delhi)
with appliqué of gold metallic Nabha
thread embroidery; kurti Mid-20th century Philip de Laszlo (Philip
(tunic) and choli (bodice) of Odhini (shawl), kurta (tunic), Alexius de Laszlo de Lombos)
red cotton net embroidered and pyjama (trousers) of British, 1869-1937
with silver metallic thread and cream silk satin jacquard with Study for a Portrait of the Maharaja
trimmed with gold and silver gold ribbon appliqué of Jaipur
metallic thread embroidery; Lent by Tikka Rani of Nabha Oil on canvas, 1935
pyjama (trousers) of gold silk Lent anonymously
brocade Woman's Costume from Delhi
Lent by Mrs. Haidar Hussain Early 20th century Elephant Howdah from Jaipur
(Bombay) Dupatta (veil) and matching 19th century
kurta (tunic) of red and gold Wood covered in silver and
Woman's Costume from silk tissue with gold and silver silver gilt, upholstery of red
Chamba mango-shaped appliqués and satin, cushions of gold and
20th century border of purple, red, green, silver brocade
Peshwaz (coat) of green silk and yellow triangles Lent by Bhawani Singh
embroidered and trimmed in embroidered in gold and silver of Jaipur
gold ribbon appliqué with gold ribbon appliqué;
Brijendra Singh of Chamba shaluka (jacket) of blue silk
(dupatta); HHEC of India Ltd., brocade; Farshi pyjama (very
New Delhi (peshwaz) long culotte) of yellow silk
satin with purple border with Orange Gallery
Woman's Costume from gold ribbon appliqué (clockwise from left entering
Hyderabad Lent by Mrs. Saba Ahmed from Coral Gallery)
Late 19th century (New Delhi)
Khada dupatta (veil), kurti
(tunic), and choli (bodice) of Child's Costume from Saree from Chanderi
yellow silk crossbarred in Lucknow 1985
silver and trimmed in gold Mid-20th century Black cotton and silk with
embroidery and appliqué; Gharara (ankle-length culotte) metallic gold
pyjama (trousers) of of blue satin with gold Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
turquoise-blue cotton and silk embroidery and sequins, and (New Delhi)
brocade pink and yellow appliqué in
Lent by Sahibzadi Moinissa geometric pattern Saree from Benares
Begum (Hyderabad) Lent by Begum Shenshah 7985
Husain (Lorepur) Rose silk tissue and metallic
Woman's Costume from gold
Nabha Lady's Dumbbells Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
Mid-20ih century (odhini and 19th century (New Delhi)
kurta); 20th century (pyjama) Wood painted and inlaid with
Odhini (shawl) of yellow- ivory Saree from Benares
green cotton brocade with Lent by Mehrengarh Fort 1985
gold appliqués; kurta (tunic) of Museum (Jodhpur) Silk tissue of rust silk warp
green silk with gold and silver and metallic gold weft
appliqués; pyjama (trousers) of Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
brown and green striped (New Delhi)
14 cottonFrank O w e n Salisbury Saree from Benares Saree from Kanjipuram
British, 1874-1962 7985 7985
The Sen Sisters W h i t e c o t t o n and silk brocaded D a r k red silk and metallic gold
Oil on canvas w i t h metallic gold Lent by H H E C of India Ltd.
Gift of t h e artist, 1954 Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. ( N e w Delhi)
( N e w Delhi)
Saree from Baroda
Early 20th century Saree from Benares
Rtarli m t t o n with multirnlorpn
LtlClV. IS. V. V^l I V_ri 1 VV 1 1 1 1 111 LI 1 l I V - V y l U l ^\A 7985
brocade and metallic gold Multicolored silk brocade and Pink Gallery
Lent by Ranjit Singh G a e k w a d metallic gold (center platform, t h e n
, (Baroda) Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. clockwise a r o u n d platform and
( N e w Delhi) rest of room)
Saree from Dholpur w o v e n in
Benares Deanshker
Early 20th century The Rajmaia of Jaipur, Ayesha Man's C o s t u m e from Jaipur
G r e e n silk striped and Oil on canvas, 1949 Mid-20th century
brocaded in metallic gold Lent by G a y a t r i Devi of Jaipur Jama (coat) of w h i t e c o t t o n
Lent by Srimati V a s u n d h a r a Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
Raje (Dholpur) Saree from Kanjipuram of Jaipur
7985
Saree from Kanjipuram Bright t u r q u o i s e blue Patka (sash) from Paithan
7985 brocaded w i t h gold 18th century
D e e p red silk c r o s s b a r r e d in Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. G r e e n silk w i t h red and gold
gold w i t h yellow silk b o r d e r s ( N e w Delhi) stripes and wide t a p e s t r y -
Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. woven border
( N e w Delhi) Saree from Benares Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
7985 of Jaipur
Saree from Dholpur w o v e n in Rust-colored silk striped in
Benares p a t t e r n e d gold brocade Dupatta (veil) from Benares
Early 20th century Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. Mid-19th century
O r a n g e silk multicolored ( N e w Delhi) Black and gold silk brocade
brocade and metallic gold w i t h red and gold b o r d e r
Lent by Srimati V a s u n d h a r a Saree from Kanjipuram Lent by B h a w a n i Singh
Raje ( D h o l p u r ) 7985 of Jaipur
Bright g r e e n silk with metallic
Saree from Baroda gold Throne Cover and C u s h i o n s
Early 20th century Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. from Jodhpur
D e e p - p i n k silk c r o s s b a r r e d in ( N e w Delhi) Early 20th century
gold w i t h multicolored Gold, pink, and g r e e n silk
brocade Saree from Kanjipuram brocade
Lent by Ranjit Singh G a e k w a d 7985 Lent by M r . S u n d e r Singh
(Baroda) Black silk c r o s s b a r r e d in gold (Jodhpur)
Lent by H H E C of India Ltd.
Saree from Benares ( N e w Delhi) Chandelier
7985 English, 19th century
C r e a m - c o l o r e d silk brocaded Philip de Laszlo (Philip R u b y and w h i t e crystal, ruby
in multicolored silks and Alexius de Laszlo de Lombos) crystal trim, etched-glass
metallic gold British, 1 8 6 9 - 1 9 3 7 h u r r i c a n e shades, sixteen
Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. Maharani of Cooch Behar lights
( N e w Delhi) Oil on canvas, 1925 Lent by Nesle Inc.
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y 15Carpet Weights from Jodhpur Man's Costume from Gwalior Man's Costume from Kotah
19th century Early 20th century Early 20th century
Ivory carved in lotus-bud Angarkha (coat) of white Chapkan (coat) of white
shape and painted cotton with white embroidery cotton embroidered in white
Lent by Mehrengarh Fort and cutwork Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari
Museum (Jodhpur) Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. of Kotah
(New Delhi)
Man's Costume from Gujarat Shawl from Kashmir
Early 19th century Shawl from Kashmir Mid-19th century
Jama (coat) of offwhite cotton Early 19th century White wool with multicolored
embroidered in red silk Indigo-blue wool woven with mango-shaped motifs woven
Lent by Mehrengarh Fort border of multicolored floral in border
Museum (Jodhpur) motifs Lent by Bhawani Singh
Lent by Bhawani Singh of Jaipur
Bernard Boutet de Monvel of Jaipur
French, 1884-1949 Man's Costume from
Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar of George Willison Lucknow
Indore British, 1741-1797 19th century
Oil on canvas, 1934 Muhammad Ali Khan, Nawab of Chapkan (coat) of white
Lent anonymously Arkot, with Attendant cotton woven with diagonal
Oil on canvas, c. 1795 floral stripe
Man's Costume from Lent by Inchcape PLC, London Lent by HHEC of India Ltd.
Sanganer (New Delhi)
Early 18th century Man's Costume from Kotah
Bagalbandhani (coat) of peach Mid-20th century Shawl from Kashmir
cotton with green and white Angarkha (coat) of white Early 19th century
pattern in handblock print cotton Pale coral wool woven with
Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari multicolored floral pattern
Museum (Jodhpur) of Kotah Lent by Bhawani Singh
of Jaipur
Man's Costume from Shawl from Kashmir
Sanganer Early 19th century Man's Costume from Rampur
Early 19th century Red wool woven with pattern Early 20th century
Jama (coat) of beige cotton of multicolored floral motifs Angarkha (coat) of white
with purple, red, and metallic Lent by Bhawani Singh cotton muslin woven white on
gold pattern in handblock of Jaipur white in striped floral and vine
print patterns and embroidered
Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Patka (sash) from Paithan with silver metallic thread;
Museum (Jodhpur) 18th century opening on left side indicates
Red and gold silk brocade with Muslim wearer, opening on
Man's Costume from wide tapestry-woven border right side Hindu
Sanganer Lent by Bhawani Singh Lent by Begum Mehtab
Late 18th century of Jaipur Zamani Ali Khan (Rampur)
Angarkha (coat) of offwhite
cotton with purple, green, red, Man's Costume from Jaipur Shawl from Kashmir
and metallic gold pattern in Late 19th century Early 19th century
handblock print; quilted Jama (coat) of white cotton Orange wool woven with
Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Lent by Bhawani Singh multicolored floral pattern
Museum (Jodhpur) of Jaipur Lent by Bhawani Singh
of Jaipur
16Man's C o s t u m e from Powder Horn
Lucknow Vitrine Indian, Mughal period, 18th
19th century (left to right, t o p to b o t t o m ) century
C h a p k a n (coat) of w h i t e Nephrite
striped c o t t o n w o v e n w i t h B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e ,
d a g g e r motif Shield 1935
Lent by H H E C of India Ltd. Indian, Mughal period, 18th 36.25.2416
( N e w Delhi) century
W a t e r e d steel, gold, and Matchlock H u n t i n g Gun
Shawl from Kashmir turquoise Indian, Mughal period, 18th
Mid-19th century B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e , century
W h i t e wool w i t h floral p a t t e r n 1935 Steel, painted w o o d , and gold;
in red and g r e e n 36.25.597 w i t h s q u a r e d barrel, stock
Lent by B h a w a n i Singh painted w i t h animals
of Jaipur Blunderbuss B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e ,
Indian (Seringapatam), dated 1935
Man's C o s t u m e from Kashmir 1793/4 36.25.2153
Late 19th century M a d e for Tipu Sultan of
S h e r w a n i (coat) of red, w h i t e , Mysore. Shield
and pink diagonally striped Steel, gold, and w o o d Indian (Rajasthan), 19th century
wool w i t h w o v e n g r a p e - a n d - B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e , Hide covered w i t h lacquer;
vine and floral p a t t e r n s 1935 silver bosses
Lent by Safdar Ali K h a n 36.25.2227 B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e ,
(Patna) 1935
Ceremonial Lance 36.25.592
Man's C o s t u m e from Kashmir Northern Indian, Mughal period,
Late 19th century 18th century Sabre w i t h Scabbard
A c h k a n (coat) of c r e a m wool Bone carved and dyed, w i t h Indian (Jaipur?), Mughal period,
w i t h paisley p a t t e r n w o v e n in steel rest and tip dated 1819
black, red, and g r e e n Bequest of G e o r g e C. S t o n e , Steel, silver, and e n a m e l
Lent by Safdar Ali K h a n 1935 p r e s e n t e d in 1819 by Sir
(Patna) 36.145.2070 W a r r e n H a s t i n g s to o n e of his
officers
Man's C o s t u m e from Kashmir Crutch Dagger B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e ,
Late 19th century Indian, 19th century 1935
C h o g a (coat) of wool in D a g g e r blade hidden in shaft 36.25.1302
multicolored stripes w i t h N e p h r i t e , silver, and jewels
w o v e n paisley and floral B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e , Powder Horn
patterns 1935 Indian, Mughal period, 17th to
Lent by Safdar Ali K h a n 36.25.1001 18th century
(Patna) Ivory, carved w i t h animals
Dagger w i t h Scabbard B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e ,
Hilt and blade (?) Indian, Mughal 1935
period, 18th century (blade dated 36.25.2424
1703)
Scabbard Ottoman, 19th century Powder Horn
Steel, n e p h r i t e , rubies, and Indian, Mughal period, 17th to
gold 18th century
Gift of Giulia P. M o r o s i n i , in Ivory, carved w i t h animals
m e m o r y of her father, Bequest of G e o r g e C. S t o n e ,
G i o v a n n i P. M o r o s i n i , 1923 1935
23.232.3 36.25.2423 17Dagger w i t h Scabbard Dagger Blade inscribed in U r d u
Indian, Mughal period, 18th Indian, Mughal period, 18th Gift of Giulia P. Morosini, in
century century m e m o r y of h e r father,
Steel, rock crystal, gold, Steel, gold, rubies, e m e r a l d s , G i o v a n n i P. M o r o s i n i , 1923
rubies, d i a m o n d s , e m e r a l d s , and rock crystal 23.232.7
and silk Bequest of G e o r g e C. S t o n e ,
B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e , 1935 Dagger w i t h Scabbard
1935 36.25.655 Hilt Indian, Mughal period, 19th
36.25.69 century
Sabre w i t h Scabbard Blade Persian dated 1732
Dagger w i t h Scabbard Indian, Mughal period, early 18th Scabbard Ottoman 19th century
Indian, Mughal period, 18th century Steel, n e p h r i t e , agate, gold,
century Steel, silver, enamel, and emeralds, diamonds, and
Steel, n e p h r i t e , gold, rubies, velvet rubies
silver, and leather Bequest of G e o r g e C. S t o n e , B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e ,
B e q u e s t of G e o r g e C. S t o n e , 1935 1935
1935 36.25.1623 36.25.994
36.25.1086
Gold Service Dagger w i t h Scabbard
19th century Hilt and blade (?) Indian, Mughal
Dagger w i t h Scabbard
R o u n d platter, serving bowls, period, 18th century (blade dated
Hilt and scabbard Indian, 19th
and d e c a n t e r in 2 4 - k a r a t gold 1703)
century
Blade Indian dated 1739? Lent by H a r r y W i n s t o n , Inc. Scabbard Ottoman 19th century
D a g g e r : n e p h r i t e w i t h pierced Steel, n e p h r i t e , rubies, and
blade and scales of s h a g r e e n Comb gold
Scabbard: n e p h r i t e , rubies, 19th century Gift of Giulia P. M o r o s i n i , in
e m e r a l d s , d i a m o n d s , gold, and Gold, jade, d i a m o n d s , rubies, m e m o r y of h e r father,
and emeralds G i o v a n n i P. M o r o s i n i , 1923
copper
Gift of Giulia P. M o r o s i n i , in Lent a n o n y m o u s l y 23.232.6
m e m o r y of h e r father,
Bowl
G i o v a n n i P. Morosini, 1923 Dagger Hilt
19th century
23.232.8 Indian, Mughal period, mid-17th
Rock crystal, d i a m o n d s ,
century
rubies, s a p p h i r e s , and gold
Dagger Nephrite
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y
Indian, Mughal period, 18th R o g e r s Fund, 1915
century 15.150.1 Oval Box
N e p h r i t e w i t h pierced blade of 19th century
steel d a m a s c e n e d w i t h gold Dagger Rock crystal, rubies, e m e r a l d s ,
Bequest of G e o r g e C. S t o n e , Indian, Mughal period, late 17th to s a p p h i r e s , and gold
1935 early 18th century Lent a n o n y m o u s l y
36.25.993 Steel and n e p h r i t e
Bequest of G e o r g e C o e Cup and Cover
Dagger G r a v e s , 1930 19th century
Indian, Mughal period, 18th 30.120.162 Rock crystal w i t h rubies,
century e m e r a l d s , and gold
N e p h r i t e w i t h pierced blade of Dagger Lent a n o n y m o u s l y
steel d a m a s c e n e d w i t h gold Hilt and blade Indian, Mughal
Bequest of G e o r g e C. S t o n e , period, late 17th to 18th century Bowl
1935 Scabbard Ottoman, 19th century 19th century
36.25.993 Steel, n e p h r i t e , gold, emerald, Rock crystal, rubies,
sapphires, rubies, and d i a m o n d s , e m e r a l d s , and gold
18 diamonds Lent a n o n y m o u s l yOctagonal Box and Plate Cup and Cover Choker Necklace
19th century 19th century 19th century
Rock crystal, s a p p h i r e s , rubies, Rock crystal w i t h rubies, D i a m o n d s , e n a m e l , pearls, a n d
and gold e m e r a l d s , and gold emerald drops
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Lent a n o n y m o u s l y
Bowl Archer's Ring Sarpech (turban ornament)
19th century 19th century and T w o Bracelets
Rock crystal, rubies, e m e r a l d s , Rubies, gold and e n a m e l 19th century
s a p p h i r e s , and gold Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Rubies, d i a m o n d s , and e n a m e l
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Lent a n o n y m o u s l y
Choker Necklace
Bowl 19th century Bracelet
19th century D i a m o n d s , enamel, and gold 19th century
Rock crystal, rubies, Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Gold, e n a m e l , d i a m o n d s , and
d i a m o n d s , e m e r a l d s , and gold pearls
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Chain and Pendant
Lent by M m e Pierre
19th century
Schlumberger
Gold, d i a m o n d s , and e n a m e l
Rectangular Box
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y
19th century Bracelets
Rock crystal, gold, pearls, and 19th century
Hand-held Ornament
rubies Gold, rubies, and e m e r a l d s
19th century
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Lent by H a r r y W i n s t o n , Inc.
C a r v e d e m e r a l d s , e n a m e l , and
gold
Bowl Bangle Bracelets
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y
19th century 19th century
Rock crystal, rubies, sapphires, Necklace D i a m o n d and blue e n a m e l
d i a m o n d s , and gold 19th century Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd.
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y D i a m o n d s w i t h emerald d r o p ,
e n a m e l e d back Court Necklace
Octagonal Box Lent by H a r r y W i n s t o n , Inc. Late 19th century
19th century Rubies and d i a m o n d s
Rock crystal, rubies, Sarpech (turban ornament) Lent by H a r r y W i n s t o n , Inc.
d i a m o n d s , e m e r a l d s , and gold 19th century
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Emeralds, d i a m o n d s , e n a m e l , Pair of Bangle Bracelets
and gold 19th century
Incense Bottle Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Gold w i t h d i a m o n d s
19th century Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd.
Jade w i t h enamel, gold, Mango-shaped Toy
e m e r a l d s , d i a m o n d s , and 19th century Bracelets
rubies Gold, e m e r a l d s , and rubies 19th century
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Emerald w i t h animal heads in
gold w i t h rubies, and e n a m e l
Oval Box Pair of Earrings Lent by H a r r y W i n s t o n , Inc.
79//¡ century 19th century
Rock crystal, rubies, and gold D i a m o n d s , pearls, and e n a m e l Chain and Pendant
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Lent a n o n y m o u s l y 19th century
Rubies, enamel, and gold
Oval Box Pendant Lent a n o n y m o u s l y
19th century 19th century
Rock crystal, gold, and rubies Emeralds, pearls, and gold
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Lent a n o n y m o u s l y 19Hand-held Ornament Shield (Delhi) Pair of Miniature Sandals
19th century Indian, Mughal period, 19th century?
D i a m o n d s , gold, a n d pearls 19th century Gold, silver, a n d g r e e n glass
Lent a n o n y m o u s l y Pierced steel d a m a s c e n e d w i t h (placed as an offering o n a
gold t e m p l e altar)
Necklace Gift of William B. O s g o o d Lent by Bata S h o e M u s e u m
19th century Field, 1902 (Toronto)
Gold w i t h cabochon rubies 02.5.4
Lent by T R H Prince a n d Pair of Statuettes from Jaipur
Princess Michael of Greece Pair of Sandals from 19th century
Hyderabad Silver and silver gilt
Ring 19th century? Lent by B h a w a n i Singh of
19th century Silver Jaipur
Gold and d i a m o n d s Lent by Bata S h o e M u s e u m
Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. (Toronto) Pair of Arm Bracelets
19th century
Bracelet
Necklace and Earrings Gold w i t h d i a m o n d s
19th century
19th century Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd.
Gold w i t h d i a m o n d s and
Rubies, d i a m o n d s , and pearls
pearls
Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Pair of Sandals
Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd.
19th century?
Pair of Bracelets Ivory
Necklace
19th century Lent by Bata S h o e M u s e u m
19th century
Gold w i t h d i a m o n d s (Toronto)
Emerald beads and briolette
diamonds with emerald drop Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd.
Lent by H a r r y W i n s t o n , Inc. Mirror
Pair of Child's Sandals 19th century
Pair of Foot Bracelets 19th century? Jade w i t h gold, d i a m o n d s ,
19th century Silver e m e r a l d s , and rubies
Gold w i t h rubies, e m e r a l d s , Lent by Bata S h o e M u s e u m Lent a n o n y m o u s l y
and d i a m o n d s (Toronto)
Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Set of Buttons
Pair of Child's Sandals from 19th century
Hand and Finger Jewelry Uttar Pradesh A g a t e , gold, a n d d i a m o n d s
19th century 19th century? Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd.
Enamel, d i a m o n d s , and gold Silver
Lent by M m e Pierre Lent by Bata S h o e M u s e u m
Schlumberger (Toronto)
Pair of Sandals Earrings Green Gallery
7 8 ^ century? 19th century (left side of r a m p e n t e r i n g
Wood covered with silver Pearls, e m e r a l d s , d i a m o n d s , from O r a n g e Gallery)
Lent by Bata S h o e M u s e u m and gold
(Toronto) Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Ghagara (skirt) from Kutch
Mid-19th century
Dhokas (symbols of Pendant Earrings Yellow silk satin w i t h e l e p h a n t
monarchy) from Gujarat 19th century and h o r s e motifs e m b r o i d e r e d
19th century Pearls, d i a m o n d s , e m e r a l d s , in chain stitch and a floral
Fish, lion, and e l e p h a n t of and rubies border
silver and silver gilt Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Lent by Smt. H a r s h a d K u m a r i
Lent by M a k w a n A r t s Private ( N e w Delhi)
20 Ltd. (Gujarat)Dupatta (veil) from Jamnagar Woman's Costume from Woman's Costume from
Early 20th century Jaipur Jaipur
Red chiffon with tie-dyed Mid- 19th century Mid-19th century
pattern in yellow, green, and Dupatta (veil) of yellow cotton Dupatta (veil) and ghagara
white with gold ribbon with silver appliqué; ghagara (skirt) of rust and offwhite tie-
appliqué (skirt) of rust and yellow tie- dyed cotton with gold ribbon
Lent by Smt. Harshad Kumari dyed cotton with silver appliqué
(New Delhi) appliqué Lent by Bhawani Singh
Lent by Bhawani Singh of Jaipur
Ghagara (skirt) from Chamba of Jaipur
19th century Woman's Costume from
Red cotton printed in gold, Man's Costume from Rampur Jaipur
silver, and black Mid-20th century Mid-19th century
Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Jama (robe) of gold and orange Dupatta (veil) and ghagara
(New Delhi) silk tissue with gold (skirt) of rust-colored cotton
embroidery and sequins; embroidered with metallic
Odhini (shawl) from Nabha matching batwa (bag); sash of gold thread, ribbon appliqué,
Mid-2Oth century magenta, gold and silver sequins, and fringe
Red cotton embroidered in red brocade; pyjama (trousers) of Lent by Bhawani Singh
and silver with border of gold red, gold, and silver silk of Jaipur
ribbon appliqué brocade; shamla topi (turban)
Lent by Tikka Rani of Nabha of gold and silver tissue Simon Elwes
Lent by Begum Qamar Laqa, British, 19037-1975
Ghagara (skirt) from Chamba Patna (jama); HHEC of India Maharaja of Patiala
19th century Ltd., New Delhi (pyjama) Oil on canvas
Red cotton printed in silver Lent by Amrinder Singh of
and green Woman's Costume from Patiala
Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Rampur
(New Delhi) Early 20th century
Dupatta (veil) and matching
Odhini (shawl) from Jodhpur kurti (bodice) of pink and gold
Black cotton printed in gold silk tissue striped and banded
Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. with gold metallic embroidery,
(New Delhi) with gold and silver fringe;
Farshi pyjama (very long
Ghagara (skirt) from Chamba culotte) of gold and silver silk
19th century brocade banded in gold
Red cotton printed in silver on embroidered appliqué and
dark green purple, red, yellow, and green
Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. satin embroidered with gold
(New Delhi) metallic thread
Lent by Begum Mehtab
Ghagara (skirt) from Kutch Zamani Ali Khan (Rampur)
Mid-19th century
Yellow silk satin with Tamzan (palanquin) from
multicolored floral and bird Jodhpur
motifs embroidered in chain 19th century
stitch Wood covered with painted
Lent by Smt. Harshad Kumari metal
(New Delhi) Lent by Mehrengarh Fort
Museum (Jodhpur)
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