Nature. People. Culture - Boundless Southern Africa
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Introduction to GLTFCA 02 Getting Around 04 Limpopo National Park Mozambique: Limpopo National Park; e-mail: pnlimpopo@gmail.com Banhine National Park; Zinave National Website: www.pnlimpopo.gov.mz Park and the Greater Libombos 06 Call: +258 (0) 84 3011 726 Conservancy (GLC) South Africa: Kruger National Park and 18 Kruger National Park the Greater Kruger area e-mail: reservations@sanparks.org Zimbabwe: Gonarezhou National Park 24 Website: https://www.sanparks.org and adjacent CAMPFIRE areas and Call: +27 (0)12 428 9111 conservancies Cross-Border Adventures 30 Gonarezhou National Park e-mail: reservations@gonarezhou.org Website: gonarezhou.org Call: +263 779788811 Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area Website: www.greatlimpopo.org 3 1
A World Without Boundaries… The evidence of iron-age implements and stone- Culture, Community and Living Heritage © Ryan James age artefacts speaks to the presence of humans The ground-breaking Great Limpopo Transfrontier in the area - the San were early inhabitants, who In addition to incredible wildlife experiences Conservation Area (GLTFCA) is a conservation left numerous rock-paintings scattered across and bush adventures, the GLTFCA has a collaboration between three countries – the region, followed by Bantu tribes about 800 fascinating cultural heritage, and traditional Mozambique, South Africa and Zimbabwe. years ago. Visitors to the area can explore the experiences and community-based activities are history and heritage of the region at various an added highlight for any traveller to the region. Measuring almost 10 000 000 hectares, the sites and attractions. For those visiting the area, immersive cultural GLTFCA is an extensive area and encompasses experiences provide insight into the traditional the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique, the Wildlife in Abundance and contemporary cultures of the people who Kruger National Park in South Africa and the live in and around these wildlife areas. Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe. The The region draws together vast conservation Wild animals don’t see the lines on maps, they region also includes the Banhine and Zinave areas in Southern Africa and forms one of the follow ancient migratory trails led by instinct in National Parks in Mozambique, as well as largest protected areas in Africa. a wilderness that reminds all who pass through various privately, community and state-owned that everything is interconnected... conservation areas in all three countries. There is an abundance of wildlife in the GLTFCA, which is home to 147 species of The region is one of the few remaining parts mammal, 116 reptile species, 49 species of fish, of Southern Africa that still contains natural 34 species of frogs, 500 or more bird species, in undeveloped areas with little human impact and addition to at least 2,000 species of plants. influence. It is an extensive area of mostly flat savannah bisected from north to south by the It is possible to see all the iconic African big game, INTRODUCTION imposing Lebombo Mountains and drained by including elephant, black and white rhinoceros, four river systems flowing from west to east: the lion, leopard, giraffe, zebra, buffalo and many Limpopo, Olifants, Save and Komati. antelope species. 2 3
Bazaruto Traveller Highlights (At A Glance) Getting Around the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area 1 Chilojo Cliffs – incredible sandstone mountains (landscape) The GLTFCA is an exciting destination for any traveller, with a range of activities and options 2 2 Malilangwe Conservation Area – Kambako Living Museum (cultural) on offer, but this is not a formulaic destination by any means – the real value of the destination 1 3 lies in the massive biodiversity of the region: Samalema Gorge (natural attraction) the fascinating living heritage of the area and 4 an authentic African experience far from the 12 4 Zinave – route for 4x4 travellers to the beaches of Bazaruto (bush & beach) madding crowd. Itineraries should be carefully 3 planned to incorporate travelling times and the vast expanse of mileage that will be covered 6 5 7 Banhine National Park – unique wetlands (prolific birdlife) on any trip incorporating the three countries. While there are some incredible market-ready 6 excursions and attractions, tour operators and The Sengwe-Tshipise Corridor – gateway to adventure - where three countries meet 5 travellers should bear in mind that some of the attractions and experiences are currently being 7 10 Thulamela – linked to the ancient Kingdom of Great Zimbabwe (cultural) developed and fall into the future vision of the region. This brochure will give you the highlights 8 of the different regions, but there are always the Tsendze Rustic Campsite – 4x4 camp (accommodation) 8 hidden gems worth exploring, the unexpected meetings and pleasures found along the way. 9 Immersive Cultural Experiences (community) 11 12 10 Shingwedzi Cliffs – 4x4 route (natural attraction) 11 9 Massingir Dam – Excellent tiger-fshing (activity) 12 The magnificent beaches of Mozambique (bush & beach) 12 4 5
© Ryan James Limpopo National Park Zinave NP Known for amazing scenery, friendly people The Limpopo National Park is a popular half-way and beautiful beaches, Mozambique is also stop for travellers on bush and beach excursions home to some incredible wilderness areas, en route from South Africa to Mozambique. It including a number of notable national parks is a source of national pride for the people of and conservation areas. Limpopo National Park Mozambique. Situated strategically alongside the (LNP), Banhine National Park, Zinave National Kruger National Park, this massive trans-border Banhine NP Park and the Greater Libombos Conservancy conservation area allows for the large herbivores (GLC) all form part of the GLTFCA. such as elephant and buffalo to roam freely, as they did in the past. Limpopo NP MOZAMBIQUE 6 7
When the park was first established, it was will be very beneficial to the economy and “Where else in the world on a million-hectare hunting concession the communities that live in and around the with very little infrastructure apar t from a park. A community resettlement programme can you stand with one foot in few hunting tracks and poor roads. Through a par tnership between the Government of is currently underway, and government has a long-term plan to attract visitors to the South Africa, the other in Mozambique via the National Administration region and to make them stay and enjoy Zimbabwe and have your for the Conservation Areas (ANAC) and the the range of tourism experiences and Peace Parks Foundation an ambitious plan oppor tunities available from 4x4 and walking shadow fall on the soil was put in place to jointly develop the park. trails to fishing safaris and the best possible of Mozambique?” bush and beach experiences. The Giriyondo Tourist Access Facility was established as the main ar tery from South ANAC making great strides Dr Bartolomeu Soto, World Bank Africa into the Limpopo National Park, and an impor tant thoroughfare for visitors. Established in 2011, ANAC is a State institution responsible for the conservation of Over the years advisors from Peace Parks biodiversity and the sustainable development Foundation have provided technical support to of the country’s ecotourism. Its main develop the basic infrastructure – creating an activities are the planning, coordination and essential foundation for further development execution of activities in the conservation of the region and making it more attractive areas, in par tnership with local organisations to tourists. and communities. The conservation areas administered by ANAC represent around A Dream in the Making 25% of the national territory, including seven National Parks and 70 game-hunting areas Developing tourism in the park is par t of divided into 20 official game reserves, nine the ambitious vision for the region. Tourism hunting blocks, 13 community projects and development based on key wildlife products 31 game farms. 8 9
Landscape Taking a Stand Against Wildlife Crime A percentage of revenues - gate income, The diversity of landscapes in this part of the world Implementing effective anti-poaching strategies camping fees and all concession fees - are is unmatched, with large swathes of sandveld, over the one million hectares of the Limpopo paid over to the government and are then covered by mopane, ironwood and broadleaf National Park is no mean feat. Leveraging repatriated to the communities for projects savannah making up this pristine wilderness. limited resources continues to be a challenge. and development of infrastructure aimed Limpopo National Park is bounded by both the The conservation of wildlife resources is at benefitting the community. Limpopo and Olifants Rivers, with the Shingwedzi a priority, and Peace Parks Foundation has flowing through its centre. In the south is the provided the support needed to stabilise the Massingir Dam, a popular area for tiger-fishing. area. A number of anti-poaching milestones The evocative landscape and vistas are a must for anyone with a keen eye for photography, and have been reached since 2015 including the introduction of improved communication “Our dream is to reconnect © Ryan James travellers will enjoy driving through the imposing systems; improved aerial surveillance and Africa’s wild spaces to Shingwedzi River Valley with its incredible cliffs, monitoring; skills development and training varied topography and diverse vegetation. initiatives for staff; these and an increase in create a future for man in patrolling efforts have all shown great success in harmony with nature.” Wildlife terms of wildlife conservation and will continue over the years to come. With wildlife resources ravaged during the civil Peace Parks Foundation war and later by poachers an extensive restocking Community Livelihoods programme became necessary. As a result of this programme over 5000 animals were introduced One of the key objectives of the Transfrontier to the area.To date, wildlife numbers are slowly but Conservation Areas is to improve the lives of surely continuing to grow, and the park is home to communities in and around wildlife areas, and find elephant, leopard, rhinoceros, spotted hyena, Cape new ways to use natural resources in a sustainable buffalo, kudu, giraffe, zebra and antelope. There is manner to create alternative livelihood options also considerable birdlife and the region is known as and tackle poverty head-on. Dealing with wildlife a formidable crocodile breeding area. and human conflict is key to this process. 10 11
© Ryan James The Government of Mozambique and The to take shape, visitors will begin to spend more “The sense of space is Peace Parks Foundation have facilitated the time there, thus creating jobs and opportunities resettlement process of eight villages, giving for the local communities to play a major role in incredible, when you drive large benefits to the communities with limited being part of the tourism product of the region. here you really feel agricultural opportunities.These include modern homes, training, access to basic needs, and in the like you are long term will provide job creation as well as The Giriyondo Tourist Access Facility was in the wilderness.” access to markets for their produce and goods. officially opened by the Heads of State on August 2006. The other entry points occur at Pafuri, Mapai, Massingir and Sengwe. Peter Leitner, Tourism Experiences Project Manager, Parque Nacional do Limpopo The diversity of tourism experiences is currently Visitors can enter the park via South limited, but there is great potential for the Africa (Kruger National Park), through development of tourism activities. There are either the Giriyondo or Pafuri border gates and from Mozamibique via the few places in the world where one can truly get Mapai or Massingir gate. The R71 from away from it all and Limpopo National Park is Phalaborwa goes into Kruger National one such place. The houseboats and tiger fishing Park past the Giriyondo border post into at Massingir Dam are popular. 4x4 routes offer Limpopo National Park. wild adventures and the scenic landscapes and sense of space in places that feel untouched are Maputo International Airport, Mozam- a drawcard. As different parts of the park begin bique (250km to Limpopo National Park). 12 13
© Peace Parks Foundation © Trevor Landry Zinave National Park Tourism Situated in Inhambane province, Mozambique, A network of good 4x4 tracks have been “Another world is not only Zinave National Park is a vast area of pristine opened, specifically on the eastern side; these possible, she is on her way. bushveld. It was declared a protected area in are more accessible during the rainy season On a quiet day, 1972, but the civil war in Mozambique ravaged than those on the western side. Situated close the region for 16 years, having a devastating to one of Mozambique’s tourism development I can hear her breathing.” effect on the wildlife and habitat. In 2015, nodes, the exquisite Vilanculos-Bazaruto Arundhati Roy a co-management agreement was signed Archipelago – known for its fantastic beaches with Peace Parks Foundation to jointly - once developed, Zinave could become a develop the region as par t of the visionary sought-after tourist destination. GLTFCA. Covering an area of 400 000 hectares, Zinave extends to the south of the Save River – and offers visitors an extraordinary There are two self-sustainable campsites, oppor tunity to explore roads less travelled. one inside the sanctuary and one amongst large baobabs outside the sanctuary.There Wildlife are also eight self-catering dome tents with very basic ablution facilities next to the This relatively unknown corner of the Universe is Save River. Accommodation offerings are experiencing a rebirth. A rewilding strategy that sparse at this stage, but steady progress is was introduced in 2017 is well underway. The being made and the big vision is that the potential relocation of the Big 5 is being planned area will attract travellers who will not only with carnivores from conservation areas in enjoy the spoils of this magnificent addition Mozambique, South Africa and Zimbabwe, being to the GLTFCA but will also uplift the local introduced from 2020 onwards. communities who live in the park. 14 15
© Peace Parks Foundation Banhine National Park People and Parks Greater Libombos Conservancy Located in central southern Mozambique, As with Limpopo National Park and Zinave Mozambique has become the first country since the 700 000 hectare Banhine National Park National Park, uplifting communities through the signing of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier is a unique wilderness area where thousands tourism development is high on the agenda. The Park (GLTP) Treaty in 2002 to add an area of migratory birds flock en masse during the communities living within and alongside Banhine to the GLTFCA with the establishment of rainy season. The expansive plains and crystal- National Park depend on subsistence farming the Greater Libombos Conservancy (GLC). clear lagoons make it unique as an important to earn a living, and tourism will bring much- The 240 000 hectare conservancy is the first ecological pathway between the Limpopo and needed economic activity into the region. privately managed area to be included as Zinave National Park within the GLTFCA. part of the GLTFCA and comprises a total of nine properties in Mozambique on the Wildlife The tourism offering is currently very eastern boundary of the Kruger National Park. limited. The 4x4 tracks are in good In the early 1970s, abundant ostrich and condition, but the roads leading into giraffe populations roamed the area freely, the park (via Mapai) are difficult but as with the other national parks, they to navigate during the rainy season were eradicated during the civil war and due when campsites are accessible only to poaching in the region. However, as the from the south-east. park becomes more secure, there are plans for rewilding the region, which in turn will While Banhine has a long road ahead revitalise the entire ecosystem and attract in terms of development, this national travellers seeking adventure and experiences park is an unsung gem for the traveller on their way to other attractions within the looking for wide open spaces and a GLTFCA. real sense of being at one with nature. 16 17
“Tourism has changed the lives © Ryan James of people in our community.” One of Africa’s best-loved parks, no visit to the continent is complete without a trip to “The Kruger”. Tintswalo ‘Melba’ Dlamini, The biggest of South Africa’s national parks, the Nourish Eco Village Kruger National Park stretches for approximately 350 kilometres along the Mozambique border to where the two countries meet Zimbabwe at Pafuri The Kruger National Park in the far north. The Kruger National Park was first proclaimed in 1898 as the Sabie Game Reserve by the then President of the Transvaal Republic, Paul Kruger. In 1926, the Shingwedzi and Sabie Game Reserves were merged, and the Kruger National Park was born. Kruger NP SOUTH AFRIC A 18 19
Traversing nearly 2 000 000 hectares, the Kruger The Little Five National Park is one of the world’s most famous parks, boasting diverse landscapes and wildlife, There are a number of smaller species to be as well as a rich African cultural heritage. With found in the Kruger National Park, including mountain ranges and koppies (hills), savannah, the Little 5 – Buffalo Weaver, Elephant Shrew, and riverine forests, the Kruger teems with Leopard Tortoise, Ant Lion and Rhino Beetle. animal and birdlife. The vast landscape has enormous botanic biodiversity: mopane veld stretches for miles north of the Olifants River, while in the south, thornveld predominates. The South African National Parks flora supports myriad creatures and you will (SANParks) offers 27 different camps “… I rest in the grace of the find Marula, Mopane, Baobab and Fever Trees in Kruger National Park, with varying world, and am free.” in various sections of this national park. The © Frans van Heerden levels of accommodation offerings, waterways are hives of activity and include the from rest camps and bush lodges to Luvuvhu, Shingwedzi, Letaba, Timbavati, Olifants, overnight hides. There are numerous Wendell Berry, Sabie and Sand Rivers. private game lodges in and around The Peace of Wild Things the Greater Kruger Area – including Wildlife a number of luxury high-end lodges in the nearby Sabi Sands Reserve. The Kruger is a top game-watching destination with an estimated 1400 lion, 17 000 elephant, 48 000 Kruger Main Rest Camps: Berg-en-dal; buffalo and 1000 leopards. About 147 mammal Crocodile Bridge; Letaba; Lower Sabie; species occur in the park and guests are bound Mopani; Olifants; Orpen; Pretoriuskop; to see hippopotamus, giraffe, buffalo, warthog, wild Punda Maria; Satara; Shingwedzi and dog, cheetah and spotted hyena. Skukuza. 20 21
© Ryan James Activities and Experiences GLTFCA Co-operative Partnership For travellers visiting KNP by road, there are The Kruger really is all about seeing the incredible In December 2018, a co-operative partnership nine main gates: Crocodile Bridge; Kruger; wildlife: self-drives, game drives, guided walks agreement was signed by SANParks and various Malelane; Numbi; Orpen; Pafuri; Phabeni; and 4x4 eco-trails are all on offer.The main bush conservation areas located on the western Phalaborwa; and Punda Maria. Travellers should check opening and closing times camps are well equipped with braai areas and border of the Kruger National Park, including (these differ between seasons). some boast swimming pools, an ideal way to private reserves and state and communal areas There are daily flights from Johannesburg cool off after a day out viewing the animals. within the Greater Kruger area. to Skukuza, Phalaborwa and Hoedspruit, as well as daily flights to Skukuza from The Letaba Elephant Hall gives visitors insight into The collaborative agreement is aimed at Cape Town. There is also a flight from the habits of these great creatures. For those who addressing conservation matters and socio- Cape Town to Hoedspruit. The Kruger/ want to take Africa back with them, the community economic benefits through creating an open system Mpumalanga International Airport (KMIA) arts and crafters have their work on display at the – connecting communities, the private sector and has daily flights from Cape Town, Durban Numbi, Hlanganani Phalaborwa and Skukuza outlets. conservation partners to make a real difference to and Johannesburg. the lives of people who live outside the park. Highly sophisticated African cultures already existed by the 16th century, as evidenced by the In addition to the Kruger National Park, other ruins of Thulamela, Albasini and Masorini. There partners include: Makuleke Contractual Park, are also a number of community projects that Makuya Nature Reserve, Letaba Ranch, Gidjana celebrate local culture in and around the vast Conservation Area, Balule Nature Reserve, expanse of the Kruger. Klaserie Nature Reserve, Timbavati Nature Reserve, Umbabat Nature Reserve, Thornybush Nature Reserve, Kempiana, Manyeleti, Sabi Sand Wildtuin, Mala Mala and Mjejane Game Reserves. 22 23
Gonarezhou National Park © Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge Save Conservancy Zimbabwe’s second largest national park, Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve Gonarezhou, is located in a spectacular corner © Singita Gonarezhou NP of Masvingo Province in the south-east of the country along the Mozambican border. It is connected to the Kruger through the Sengwe- Tshipise Corridor in Zimbabwe. © Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge Landscape Called “The Place of Elephants”, Gonarezhou National Park in the south-eastern lowveld of This is one of Zimbabwe’s most scenic parks, Zimbabwe covers over 500 000 hectares of with rugged unspoilt landscapes that include spectacular scenery, including vast woodlands, alluvial flood plains, dense mopane woodlands, snaking rivers and the breathtaking Chilojo Cliffs. magnificent baobab trees and the iconic Chilojo As the name suggests, elephants are in abundance Cliffs. These spectacular sandstone columns in Gonarezhou, with approximately 11 000 stand as ancient sentinels surveying a timeless pachyderms that call the place home. landscape, offering incredible clifftop views over the Runde River and the plains below. © Singita ZIMB ABWE 24 25
© Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge A Serene Wilderness Fishing is available for overnight visitors at specifically designated campsites along the Runde The peace and tranquillity found in this remote and Mwenezi rivers. There are also a number of landscape are hard to beat. Most visitors picnic sites and viewpoints throughout the park. access the park via self-drive 4x4s and its very remoteness speaks to how special it is that travellers can virtually have the place to Gonarezhou offers a variety of accommo- “The park could also be themselves. They will, however, have to share dation options, from remote wilderness their space with the elephants, leopard, wild campsites with no facilities to the comfort Africa’s epicentre of baobabs. dogs, antelope and over 453 species of birds. of the chalets at Swimuwini. The focus, There are thousands of these however, remains on immersing oneself in The Gonarezhou Conservation Trust (GCT) the experience of being in nature through arboreal grandfathers is an innovative model for protected area camping. The three developed campsites, near Tembwahata Pan, management – a creative collaboration between (Chipinda Pools, Chinguli and Mabalauta) the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management have multiple sites and are well equipped. we counted 60 Authority and the Frankfurt Zoological Society. There are three fully appointed Mananga within sight of us.” Since the 1st of March 2017, the trust has been Camps available, sustainably built and directly responsible for the management of the decorated by women from the local park and will be for a period of 20 years community. For those who prefer bricks Scott Ramsay and mortar, the chalets at Swimuwini are Getaway Magazine Activities and Attractions a great option. The fully furnished tented camp at Chipinda Pools is also popular The main activities include game-viewing from with those who enjoy a more comfortable vehicles and limited walking. Some of the stay. Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge is another main roads in the park, such as those around option, elevated over the Save River with Mabalauta and the track down to the Chilojo views for miles, and further afield in the Cliffs, are accessible for 2x4 vehicles but, for Malilingwe Reserve, guests can stay at travellers who want to venture a bit further off Singita Pamushana Lodge, a wonderful mix the beaten path, a 4x4 vehicle is a requirement. of exclusive luxury and wildest Africa. 26 27
Community Engagement Robert Gabriel Mugabe International © GCT A critical aspect of the Trust’s community Airport, Harare, Zimbabwe (448km to engagement is the employment of people from Gonarezhou); communities directly adjacent to the park. Over Joshua Nkomo International Airport, 86% of GCT’s staff are employed from within Bulawayo, Zimbabwe (370km to the Chiredzi District (75% from communities Gonarezhou); around the Park). Buffalo Range Airport, Masvingo, Zimbabwe (60km to Gonarezhou) There are numerous community projects to ensure that communities play a role in Kruger National Park leads to the Pafuri the vision of this great park. The Trust, along Teba border post going into Gonarezhou, with the community established the Mphfuka Zimbabwe, and from Pafuri into Movement, a formal platform of communication Mozambique and through the Sango that allows the Park and communities to border post directly into GNP. find common ground and develop mutually beneficial solutions to issues. Through the Mphfuka Programme, GCT © Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge © Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge engages with communities to find solutions to the most pressing problems. The collaborative programmes mean that key solutions are community-led. Mphfuka means “journey” in Shangaan and reflects the fact that communities and the Park need to walk this journey together to build a sustainable future for all. 28 29
© Singita Pamushana Lodge © Kambako Living Museum At the heart of the vision for the GLTFCA is the creation of a conservation area that not only benefits wildlife, but communities as well. We live in a time when collaboration and collective action are not only desirable but necessary, © GCT creating a situation in which everyone wins. Transboundary travel has just become a lot The traveller to this area is definitely on a more accessible due to the collaboration winning streak, with a number of cross-border between the three countries that make up opportunities available that add to the layers of the GLTFCA. There are some fantastic cross- an exciting adventure in southern Africa. border tourism opportunities on offer for tour operators and travellers, and many other The most popular cross-border regions include: collaborative initiatives are in the making. Gonarezhou and beyond – to Zinave, Banhine and the beaches of Mozambique; the Sengwe-Tshipise Corridor; the combination of Kruger National Park and Limpopo National Park en route to Maputo and/or the fantastic coastline of Mozambique. CROSS-BORDER © GCT This is a destination in progress, and the vision is to create a lot more activity and products as the existing cross-transfrontier tourism ADVENTURES opportunities grow/mature and activities and attractions emerge to thrill the traveller in search of a layered and thrilling adventure. 30 31
Gonarezhou and beyond… Natural Bounty There are very few places one can go in the The Chilojo Cliffs are a major highlight of a “Gonarezhou is unique. world that are unspoilt and untouched by over- visit to Gonarezhou, and a defining signature tourism. Gonarezhou is quite the opposite. One of nature on this remote wilderness. The cliffs The work we’ve been doing of Zimbabwe’s best-kept secrets, the gift of Gonarezhou is its remote location. As one travel rise some 200 metres above the Runde River floodplain and the views are remarkable. From here has transformed it for writer stated, it’s the kind of place where you get a lofty vantage point at the top of the cliffs, everyone living here. “that goosebump wilderness feeling…”. one can observe the terrain of the area, and of course it’s the ideal place for photographic The rugged south-eastern lowveld of Zimbabwe safaris. The spectacular Tembwahata Pan lies It has turned conflict into provides opportunities for developing unique near the confluence of the Runde and Save tourism experiences.While the southern portion of Rivers and attracts scores of wildlife, including co-operation and everyone has the Gonarezhou National Park opens opportunities antelope, buffalo and, of course, elephant. South benefited. The Shangaan are to visit the communal areas, the northern part of the Runde River, the Machaniwa Pan is a great focuses its richness on the magnificence of the spot for birders, with its abundance of fish eagles happy, the park is happy, and the animals are happy.” © Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge Chilojo Cliffs, leading to the Chilo Gorge and its and saddle-billed storks. Travellers must take community-owned 5-star lodge. note that the pans are seasonal. Popular Route Accommodation Clive Stockil, Conservationist Travellers need a 4x4 to navigate the roads. Gonarezhou offers a variety of accommodation A popular route is through the far northern options, from remote wilderness campsites to Kruger National Park, heading into Mozambique the comfort of chalets to luxury safari lodges. first (at Pafuri) and then crossing over into The camping option is a popular choice, offering Zimbabwe. There are scheduled flight options an up-close and personal experience with to Buffalo Range for guests staying at Chilojo nature.There are a limited number of wilderness Bushcamps, Singita Pamushana Lodge and Chilo campsites. For those who prefer a bit of extra Gorge Safari Lodge. comfort the chalets at Swimuwini are on offer. 32 33
© Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge The fully furnished tented camp at Chipinda Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge Singita Pamushana Lodge and Malilangwe House The Malilangwe Trust CAMPFIRE Pools is well established, and as with Swimuwini, all power is solar, and solar geysers supply hot On the edge of Gonarezhou National Park, this Located on the 130 000 hectare Malilangwe The MalilangweTrust is a wholly Zimbabwean non- The Communal Areas Management Programme water. Gonarezhou Mananga Camps are a good elegant and spacious lodge offers every home Wildlife Reserve in the remote southeast profit organisation that focuses on harmonising for Indigenous Resources (CAMPFIRE) was place to lay your head. In 2019, the GCT opened comfor t and spectacular views. Travellers can of Zimbabwe, Singita boasts ultra-luxury conservation activities, community development initiated in 1989 by the Zimbabwean Government three solar-powered camps in the park. What also enjoy other accommodation options: accommodation in a unique setting. The area programmes and ecotourism. It gives support to to support community-led development and is special about these camps is that the camp Chilo Gorge Tented Camp (semi-luxury is rich in heritage and wildlife with over 100 local Zimbabweans in support services, tourism, sustainability. The programme allows community structures were built using the traditional techniques seasonal camping); Nhambo (a self-catering rock ar t sites as well as being home to the Big conservation and anti-poaching roles. members to earn income on communal land of mud-brick walls and natural floors and are product for the self-drive market) and Ivory 5 (including black and white rhino). through the sustainable use of the environment decorated with natural paints, all made by women Trail Adventure - a mobile camping experience Muange Private Nature Reserve and wildlife through various tourism-led initiatives. from the surrounding community. The thatching where adventurous travellers can enjoy some Kambako Living Museum CAMPFIRE has been implemented widely across grass is also purchased from a locally empowered of the less visited areas of the park. The GLTFCA team is working hard to incorporate Zimbabwe with indirect benefits for communities women’s group, which harvests the grass inside the The Kambako Living Museum is adjacent to Muange Private Nature Reserve into the bigger including the building of schools and clinics and the park. Each of the camps has a central kitchen or Tiyiselani Women’s Group Malilangwe and to the north of Gonarezhou picture. Muange Private Nature Reserve is creation of jobs/entrepreneurial opportunities. dining / boma area, as well as four bedroom units National Park. The fascinating museum honours situated on Mozambique’s northern border with The first CAMPFIRE Programme was started that each accommodate two adults, either in a king- Since 2012, a programme of supervised grass- Shangaan culture in an immersive way. The Gonarezhou, Zimbabwe. It is an area that is being in the Mahenye area, where Chilo Gorge Safari size or twin split-bed configuration. harvesting by community members has been Living Museum is aimed at teaching the rehabilitated and restored to a natural wilderness Lodge is located and its principles have since been © Singita run in the north-western sector of the park. youth traditional bush skills and knowledge, through serious conservation work. replicated across Africa and the rest of the world. Chilojo Bushcamp A special feature of the programme has been and is a popular excursion for visitors. the formation of the Tiyiselani Women’s Group Shingwedzi Cliffs to Gonarezhou A tented camp nestled on the banks of the Runde – a group of 25 disadvantaged women from the The Shangaan were hunter-gatherers and River, with vistas of the Chilojo Cliffs. The camp is Chitsa community. their traditional way of life is demonstrated in The Shingwedzi Cliffs are a must-see for travellers unique in that it is marketed and sold through a an interactive way in this outdoor museum. going from Limpopo National Park to Gonarezhou. select group of private guides who offer stripped They can either sell the thatching grass they Activities include water-divining, smelting and There is a waterfall and beautiful views in an area back luxury, with a steadfast focus on creating once- harvest or use it at their own homes. The bulk forging iron, basketry, making fire, identifying rich in wildlife, community and conservation. in-a-lifetime experiences and etching memories in of the grass is purchased by tourism operations tubers and roots, as well as traditional song There is a basic campsite for visitors and there the minds of their guests. in and around the Park. and dance. are plans to expand the accommodation offerings. 34 35 © GCT
The Wonders of Pafuri Awe-Inspiring Natural Features Pafuri is at the heart of the GLTFCA. With its The region around Pafuri offers ever-changing fever tree forest, stoic baobab trees, dramatic landscapes, where riverine forests transform into © RETURNAfrica gorges, abundant wildlife and rich cultural bushveld; where mountains fall to floodplains; heritage, the Pafuri/Sengwe corridor has huge where baobabs stand strong in an area also potential for further growth in the area. known for fever trees. No wonder the area is rich in bird and animal life. Highlights of the There are plans to create annual adventure- region include a visit to the famous Crooks’ spor ting events to attract visitors to the area. Corner where the Luvuvhu and Limpopo Rivers This is the region that connects nor thern converge – a place where three countries meet. Limpopo National Park, nor thern Kruger National Park (including the Makuleke Places to Stay Area) and the Sengwe Area in Zimbabwe. The Sengwe-Tshipise Corridor links the far There is a variety of accommodation, including “Where else in the world nor thern Kruger to Gonarezhou National award-winning luxury lodges, family bush-style can you visit three countries Park, sometimes known as the “Pafuri Triangle”. accommodation, 4x4 camps and various campsites. in just one day?” © RETURNAfrica This is authentic Africa, with its big-game The Outpost and Pel’s Post hunters and legendary adventurers of the bush Godfrey Baloyi, Makuleke Contract Park that the author T.V. Bulpin wrote about in his The stylish Outpost is something of an architectural book, “The Ivory Trail”. The region attracts a stunner and accommodates 24 guests in 12 open- special kind of traveller - lovers of nature and plan, en-suite luxury spaces beautifully appointed © Piet Theron the environment seeking authentic adventures. on a hill overlooking the Luvuvhu River. The eco-luxe Pel’s Post is also part of the Rare Earth Currently, the only places to stay in the portfolio at Pafuri. With four exclusive suites and corridor are the Manjinji Pan that is still in views extending as far as the eye can see over development and the Bosman’s Tented Camp the Luvuvhu River, guests can truly experience the on the boundary of the Park. solitude of the region in ultimate comfort and luxury. 36 37
RETURNAfrica’s Pafuri Collection Alongside the socio-economic history of the of their traditional ceremonies, with its waters region, the evolution of conservation practices is being sought by traditional healers in all three RETURNAfrica’s Pafuri Luxury Tented Camp narrated by the landscape across the two major countries. The Pafuri area is still used by the two stretches along the Luvuvhu River on raised natural divides - the Lubombo Mountains and the clans for coming-of-age ceremonies and other wooden walkways. The camp has 19 designer Limpopo River. traditional events. tents with en-suite bathrooms, including indoor and outdoor showers. There are seven “family © RETURNAfrica Ancient Kingdoms Collide, Thulamela The Makuleke © Ryan James tents” that sleep families of four. Baobab Hill Bush House is another option; once the ranger’s Visitors can book a place on the SANParks One can’t visit Pafuri without going away with residence, the house has been renovated Thulamela Trail, a fascinating adventure into the additional gift of learning about the Makuleke and is beautifully put together, offering ideal the incredible history and heritage of the far- who live there. The Makuleke people were accommodation for families. north region of the Kruger National Park. The forcibly removed from their land in the park in © Ryan James © Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge stone-walled late Iron Age site of Thulamela 1969 but have reclaimed the northern reaches Pafuri Walking Safaris run from April to October. dates back about 450–500 years before present of the Kruger National Park in South Africa. The Guests stay over at the makeshift bush camp (BP). Thulamela forms part of what is known as Makuleke Contract Park is a contractual park (seasonal) and spend days with experienced the Zimbabwe culture believed to have started within the boundaries of Kruger National Park, field guides getting to know more about the at Mapungubwe. It is said that the decline of and many of the people working and managing bush and the animals, visiting rarely explored Mapungubwe coincided with the growth of the lodges in the area are from the Makuleke places and experiencing the bush in unique ways. Great Zimbabwe. When Great Zimbabwe was community and receive benefits from tourism. “The whole is greater abandoned some 300 years later, a number of than the sum of its parts.” For accommodation across the border in groups migrated south across the Limpopo river Events and Activities Gonarezhou, options include Chilo Gorge Safari into South Africa (and northern Kruger) and Lodge, Singita Pamushana Lodge and Gonarezhou established new smaller chiefdoms. It is believed The region has held many successful events in Aristotle Bush Camps, as well as various campsites. Read that Thulamela was one of these chiefdoms. the past, and there are big plans for events in pages 33 and 34 for more information. the future. The pilot GLTFCA Trans-Limpopo Walking Trail & Shangaan Festival, held in © RETURNAfrica A Strong Cultural Heritage A Sense of History September 2013 and 2014, was a great success The Parfuri area is the focal point of the two and bodes well for further planning of additional The Pafuri/Sengwe region is rich in history and Shangaan clans still holding traditional rule across events and activities to take place in the region. heritage sites are scattered in the natural landscape the three borders, namely: The Makuleke and These include the establishment of the annual from Kruger National Park into the communal Sengwe clans.The site of the confluence between Trans-Limpopo Walking Trail & Shangaan Festival areas of Mozambique and Zimbabwe. the Limpopo and the Luvuvhu Rivers is the core and the Tour de Limpopo mountain biking event. © Joep Stevens 38 39
© Ryan James The Kruger/Limpopo National Park Combo Hoedspruit with Heart The Giriyondo Tourist Access Facility, which was In and around Hoedspruit, there are some opened in December 2005, allows visitors easy excellent community projects, and visitors are access from Limpopo National Park to Kruger invited on educational tours, including: National Park and the surrounding lowveld with its many tourist attractions. Visitors to Kruger The Nourish Eco Village Immersion Tour: now have direct access to the tourism facilities participants visit a permaculture project, a sewing of Limpopo National Park, as well as a shorter initiative, a cooking scheme (feeding kids at the route to the magnificent Mozambican coastline. local creche) and various recycling projects. There is also the Shick Shack Village Walking Community Tourism Tour run by Shik Shack Backpackers & Tours which supports households in the area as well While both Limpopo National Park and the as Nourish Eco Village. On this tour, guests learn Kruger National Park have dedicated community about Shangaan culture, visit beading and mat- upliftment programmes, the initiatives in weaving projects; learn how peanut butter is made Mozambique are still in progress as communities - the organic way - and visit the village sangoma. are currently being relocated to new living areas within the park. Hlokomela is a local non-profit healthcare organisation that looks after the health and For those visiting central Kruger National Park, wellbeing of farmers and hospitality staff in the there are some good opportunities to not only Kruger to Canyons area. Tours with Hlokomela get to learn more about local cultures, but also offer visitors insights into social change and to make a difference in the lives of the numerous development driven through sustainable communities who live in and around the park. community projects. Many of the upmarket lodges near the park have dedicated community initiatives, which mean Guests can also book a tour with the the tourist rand or dollar goes a long way in Timbavati Bush School to find out more about contributing to permaculture gardens, creches, the incredible work done in the area by the clinics and livelihoods in these communities. Timbavati Foundation. 40 41
Places to Stay – Central Kruger Tsendze Rustic Camp Site Through the Limpopo National Park © Ryan James In the Kruger National Park there are different The Tsonga word for “tsendzeleka” or “to Visitors are advised to book accommodation in © Ryan James types of accommodation. For travellers going ramble around like someone lost in the bush”. advance before driving through the Giriyondo through the central section of the GLTFCA – This a relatively new accommodation offering Tourist Access Facility between the Kruger and enter the Kruger National Park at Phalaborwa in the Kruger National Park. Located south Limpopo National Parks. gate and head to Shimuwini Bushveld Camp. of Mopani Rest Camp, this is a rustic camp, a Shimuwini is the Shangaan word for “Place favourite with self-drive tourists and a fantastic Accommodation © Ryan James of the Baobab Tree”. The camp is so named camp for birdwatchers. The owls in the area because the nearby Letaba River, which fronts are a sight to behold, according to local camp While accommodation offerings are currently the cottages, is lined with these huge trees, one manager Rodgers Hobyane. limited, guests can stay over at Campismo of them estimated to be between 2 000 and Albufeira, close to the Massingir Entrance Gate, “Listen and you will realise 3 000 years old. Two prominent seasonal water courses, the as well as the Massingir Dam wall. LNP is still that we are not made from Tsendze River and Nshawu Creek, run through in the process of developing accommodation Letaba Rest Camp is another favourite for this area, which is known for the large buffalo products. Machampane used to be a popular cells or atoms; those making their way to Limpopo National Park.This idyllic camp is situated on a sweeping herds and many elephant bulls that occur here. Guests can also look out for “Alexander”, a big choice but new ownership is currently under discussion. we are made from stories.” bend of the Letaba River, midway between tusker who sometimes visits the area. © Ryan James the southern and nor thern boundaries of At Aguia Pesqueira, there are chalets and Mia Couto the Kruger National Park. The name means Visit the Tropic of Capricorn camping and the site has great potential for “river of sand”, and the sandy riverbed is houseboats, but this is dependent on the an excellent location for game-viewing, The Tropic of Capricorn is a parallel line of successful resettlement of communities. © Ryan James © Ryan James par ticularly elephant, which thrive in the area. latitude at 23 degrees and 30 minutes and is Albufeira Chalets and Camping is close to Letaba is a green oasis amidst the surrounding the southernmost point where the sun can Massingir town and a good pit-stop for those mopane veld, and is a firm favourite with be directly overhead. This occurs at noon commuting to the coast. Excellent for groups visitors. At night, nature takes par t in a rousing on 21 December, Summer Solstice, the and those on self-drive trips. Once the tourism symphony - where owls, frogs, nightjars, longest day in southern Africa. The Tropic of product in the area has been developed further, crickets, cicadas (and the odd roar of a lion) Capricorn can be crossed north of Mopani Camp visitors will be encouraged to stay longer than join together in a pleasing harmony. and is a fun place for visitors to take photographs. the current one-night. 42 43
Covane Community Lodge – A Responsible Tourism Success Story © Ananatara Bazaruto Island Resort The lodge in Canhane, Gaza, offers lake-view chalets overlooking the Massingir Dam. Also on offer are traditional rustic huts, which are built © Ryan James from wood and thatch and have shade-cloth windows. Covane is all about community and a percentage of all accommodation fees go to the local residents; members of the nearby villages are employed by the lodge. There is also a programme in place that ensures that Covane Lodge is responsible for providing water to the nearby village. With every tourist dollar spent, “Do not go local villagers benefit. where the path may lead; Bush and Beach Tourism go instead where there is no path and From LNP, travellers can head off to any of the great beaches of Mozambique including leave a trail.” Bazaruto, Vilanculos and Inhambane or opt for time in Maputo to feast on prawns, drink cerveza, visit the local nightspots and Ralph Waldo Emerson food markets. Further afield, visitors can enjoy world-class game viewing in the Kruger National Park, Limpopo National Park and Gonarezhou National Park and then explore the best of marine eco-tourism by taking the roads less travelled through the Banhine National Park and the Banamana Wetland to visit the beautiful coastal resorts of the Gaza and Inhambane Provinces. © Chemucane Community Lodge 44 45
The Greater Libombos Conservancy Karingani In March 2017, the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Extending over an area of 150 000 hectares, Park Ministerial Committee Meeting held in Karingani represents the largest privately managed Maputo made several decisions which included tract of land in the GLC with a goal to restore, the incorporation of the Greater Libombos enhance and maintain the natural ecological Conservancy (GLC) as part of the GLTFCA processes and biodiversity through an effective and to enhance biodiversity conservation and sustainable partnership between the Mozambican community development. Government, private investors and participating communities. Through strategic ecological The GLC brings private concession land in the management, Karingani already displays wildlife “For to be free is not merely southern part of Mozambique into the whole GLTFCA project. carrying capacities comparable to well established, long standing reserves. The Xinghana Community to cast off one’s chains, Lodge will be opening in December 2020 as the first but to live in a way that The area gives travellers direct access to Maputo, and there are various options for ‘open to public’ tourism destination within Karingani. respects and enhances the accommodation on offer. The region is in Libombos and KNP freedom of others.” © Karingani the early development stages in terms of its tourism offering, but Sabie Game Park and Bush-lovers can spend time in and around the well- Nelson Mandela Karingani shows great potential: Sabie Game established lodges of the Sabi Sand Reserve and Park is a 30 000 hectare wilderness region then make their way through some of the popular that borders the Lower Sabie section of the Kruger National Park camps before heading Kruger Park. It takes its name from the Sabie towards the Greater Libombos Conservancy for River which forms the reserve’s southern- a few nights of rugged adventure. The beautiful most boundary. beaches of Vilanculos, Bazaruto and beyond await, or for those who want to explore further; The area has huge biodiversity with excellent they can drive through Limpopo National Park game viewing and birding opportunities. heading towards Gonarezhou. 46 47
The Gift of Freedom There are so many wonderful opportunities © Singita © GLTFCA 2020 for visitors to explore the expansive GLTFCA, © Images: Ryan James, iStock, Freepik, iStock, Peace Parks Foundation, Singita, Joep and there are big plans ahead to grow the Stevens, Trevor Landry, Chemucane Community Lodge, Piet Theron, Chilo Gorge Safari destination into a sought-after journey for Lodge, ReturnAfrica, Daniel Rosengren, Anantara Bazaruto, Gonarezhou Conservation Trust, Karingani, Sabie Game Reserve. Frans van Heerden/Pexels, Magda Ehlers/Pexels the more conscious traveller who aims to Project team: make a difference to the conservation and Project Leader: Netsai Bollmann preservation of wildlife, the upliftment of Project Coordinator: Nicholas Tucker Technical guidance and strategic input: Roland Vorwerk families surrounding the wildlife areas – and of GLTFCA International Co-ordinator: Piet Theron course as a gift to themselves. Like the herds of Editor/Writer: Denise Slabbert elephant and buffalo who traverse these plains Art Director: Melanie van Lier unhindered, here travellers too will explore the Maps: Willem van der Riet region and find their own sense of freedom. Special thanks to Wehncke van der Merwe © Karingani © RETURNAfrica 48 49
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