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Enjoy life in and around the place you live Summer/Autumn 2013 The future issue Made for me Product design gets personal Watch this space Space tourism blasts off sMARTLY DRESSED Fashion meets function
Take Sound The future issue Editors Chris Abel SeriouSly Nick Jones Deputy Editor Katie Park Design director Matt Hill London has always been a city at the forefront of progress and innovation. Digital design From the adventurers who departed the city in search of new lands, to Simon Hodgkinson today's digital 'explorers' dreaming up the latest technological advances. Picture editor Sarah Moor St James is a company dedicated to innovation. Harnessing the very latest Production manager Cynthia Duku-Asamoah in design, technology and construction to create unique lifestyles that are Writers truly world-class. This year, in particular, sees the launch of two schemes – Hayley Ard Josh Sims Merano Residences and The Corniche – both of which will afford a living Rebecca Hattersley experience unlike anything seen in the city before. We are a proud member Claire Walsh Harriet Cox of the Berkeley Group of companies, one of the UK's most respected Publisher residential developers. Totality UK Ltd Cover So it seems fitting that we dedicate this edition of Homes & London to our The Corniche, Albert Embankment, London. seemingly ceaseless pursuit of the new – those ideas, inventions, experiences Computer generated image. and services that enrich every aspect of our lives. From culture to cuisine, entertainment to business, we celebrate the best of today and look forward to tomorrow. Printed by Park Communications on FSC® certified paper. This document is printed on Core Silk, a paper containing 100% virgin fibre sourced from well managed, responsible, FSC® certified forests. The Homes & London pulp used in this product is on your tablet bleached using an elemental chlorine free (ECF) process. Available on your iPad or Android tablet. Search Homes & London to download the The views expressed by latest edition. contributors are not necessarily shared by the St James Group. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without permission. Homes & London is published on behalf of the St James Group by Totality UK Ltd. A proud member of the Berkeley Group of companies All rights reserved. Introducing BeoLab 14 – a redefinition of surround Computer generated images sound and living proof that amazing sound matters are indicative only. bang-olufsen.com Homes & London – 01
p12 p04 The future issue Contents Contents Summer 2013 p19 04 Seed capital 52 Fast forward The St James collection Through research, global networks, number- Meet the experts whose job it is to predict 76 Places to live with St James crunching data, and high and low-tech what we might want, need or desire, long processing, the Kew Royal Botanic Gardens' before the idea even enters our head. From 78 Merano Residences Millenium Seed Bank Partnership is saving fashion to food, technology to travel, come 82 Kew Bridge West the world, one seed at a time. and gaze into the crystal ball. 86 Riverlight 12 Watch this space 59 A more social life Today, anyone who can afford the price tag St James is a company at the cutting 90 Queen Mary's Place can buy a ticket for a real-life space adventure. edge of lifestyle design – creating a host 92 Roehampton House We explore what it’s taken to make that dream of experiences to enjoy within world-class p43 a reality. places to live. We explore the rise of these 93 Langham Square so-called ‘third spaces’ and discover what 94 Wye Dene 19 Smartly dressed it takes to create the very best. The things we wear are becoming intelligent. 95 Kennet Island “Travelling into space is to enter From internet-enabled glasses that sense 62 Smart solutions 96 Hurlingham Gate what interests us, to workout clothes designed Welcome to our selection of the latest gadgets and the greatest unknown.” to improve posture. We discover how style gizmos designed to improve your everyday life. 100 Emerald Square Eugene Cernan is getting smarter. 65 Sensory sensations Coming soon 23 Movers + shakers London is being revived by a new wave 101 Brewery Wharf London has always been a magnet for creators of restaurants, cinemas and olfactory events and entrepreneurs. We meet five of todays that tantalise the senses. Homes & London 102 The Corniche brightest and best. uncovers the capital’s most unusual experiences. p43 104 Butlers Court 30 The diary 69 Made for me Plan your future with our pick of the most In a world driven by mass production interesting events taking place across the we explore the rise of the one-off, and how capital this Summer. we as individuals are becoming the new designers and manufacturers of tomorrow. 39 Bank of tomorrow Born out of London's defunct industrial 73 All hail! framework, springs a brand new quarter Few British tech companies have gathered on the river and right in the heart of the city, such a devoted following as Hailo, the mobile home to some of the most cutting edge phone app that lets users virtually hail a taxi. architecture in the world. A quarter of a million passengers worldwide use the on-demand taxi service, an idea which 43 Space age style p52 Visions of science and tomorrow have long emerged over tea and toast in a small café. “It’s an unbelievable story,” co-founder Russell inspired the way in which we style the places Hall tells Homes & London. we live. From soft flowing sci-fi curves to the precision of molecular geometry, our home styling choices will transport your home back to the future. 47 City of culture London is a grand canvas for public art. The wealth of work on show today ranges p62 from sculpture sited on historic plinths, to unique contemporary pieces commissioned p59 p23 by St James. This is our guide to what to see now and what to look out for in the future. 02 – Homes & London Homes & London – 03
The future uniqueissue issue Spiritcapital Seed of London seed ca p i ta l Protecting the world’s diverse and threatened wild plant species is the mission pledge of Kew Royal Botanic Gardens' Millennium Seed Bank Partnership (MSBP). Through research, global networks, number-crunching data, and high and low-tech processing, the MSBP is saving the world, one seed at a time. Writer Claire Walsh – Photography Jon Stevens Illustration David Young 04 – Homes & London Homes & London – 05
The future issue commissioned and opened in 2000 to house the Seed capital MSB’s expanding work and collection. Designed by architects Stanton Williams, the low-level I construction features barrel-vaulted roofing t was British designer Thomas Heatherwick’s and acres of glazing inside and out, to both echo Seed Cathedral – the startling UK Pavilion and enable the visibility that the MSB promotes created for the 2010 Shanghai Expo – that, for in its operations. me, spotlighted the important work being done It’s a ‘belt and braces’ approach below by the MSBP. The Cathedral featured 250,000 ground, with the two main cold stores – seeds sourced from the Kunming Institute of the actual seed bank – being located in an Botany, in China (a member of the MSBP). underground vault, behind a heavy reinforced- The seeds were cast in 60,000, seven and half steel door. Although the door is a little dramatic, metre long acrylic rods, which protruded out and more appropriate for protecting bullion, of a small box-like building. It resembled a it is a reminder of the serious work the MSBP giant seed head, shimmering in the daylight, undertakes, safeguarding essential wild-plants and illuminated at night. The pavilion was for all our futures. visited by 7 million people, and won the expo’s On the ground floor, laboratories line gold medal. It made Heatherwick a global a public central space. Probert tells me he star and catapulted the work of the MSBP into advocates the upper level of the building public conscience. being so accessible; “the general public can I’m in Wakehurst, the National Trust estate walk straight in and see into the labs and see in West Sussex, where Kew’s Millennium Seed Exhibition hall at the MSB visitor centre scientists going about their day-to-day work”. Bank (MSB) is located, and I am expecting There are around 70 technicians, graduate boiler suits, hydrochloric arms and iris scientists, and post-doctorial researchers screening. I sign in, with a regular paper and working here. Many are linguists, so as to pen, and am met by my guide Robin Probert Seed Cathedral, UK Pavilion at the 2010 Shanghai Expo aid communication with the 120 partner – the knowledgeable and affable head of organisations, located in 50 countries. conservation and technology at the bank. As we Gone is the Empire attitude of exploitation, make our way through the building, he explains global partners now identify the seeds they the scene here is an “active operation”. The wish to collect, be it because they are rare MSBP’s humane pledge of conservation is underpinned by human involvement at every The MSB is referred to as the and endangered, or incredibly useful. Seed collections are focused on alpine, dry lands, 'mothership' by partner organisations. stage of their operations. Robin Probert coastal and island ecosystems, as these are most Kew had always collected and stored seeds, Head of Conservation vulnerable to climate change. but after National Lottery investment in 1996 & Technology MSB it was able to establish the MSBP and expand MSB visitor centre seed sculpture Seeds on exhibit Seeds on exhibit their horizon. The biggest environmental problem facing us today is land conversion for agriculture or development, and it is intensified by climate change. Due to this, Probert believes, “a significant proportion of the world’s plant species will go extinct this century”. It is a scary prospect, but he says there is no real reason why they should. “We have the tools to save most species. It is very simple technology: dry it; seal it; freeze it, and most seeds will stay alive for many, many years.” The 250,000 seeds used by Heatherwick in the UK pavilion seem like relative small fry in comparison to the precise 19,429,446,500 banked in Wakehurst (as of 26 June 2013). There are 33,176 species here; that’s over 10% of the world’s wild flora and fauna, and the aim to conserve 25% by 2020. The MSBP, Probert explains, concentrates on wild plants: “they are incredibly important for nutrition, medicine and habitat”. The famous Svalbard Vault, cut into the permafrost in Northern Norway, stores samples of the world’s cultivated crops. These total just 300 species; “we are preserving the other 99.9%,” he counters. The MSB is referred to as the ‘mother ship’ by partner organisations. Thanks to an injection of funding a specifically designed building was Canisters for storing the billions of seeds 06 – Homes & London Homes & London – 07
The future issue Seed capital The -196°C storage facility Probert is confident seeds should live for hundreds if not thousands of years Inspecting seeds at The Great Seed Swap Storing seeds in -10°C Seeds are cleaned by hand; high-tech equipment eases the work, but technicians rely on lo-fi sieves and rubber-bungs; chain-mail gloves Packing away specimens in Tasmania, Australia Collecting seeds in Mali and secateurs are used for particularly tough customers. Once clean, batches are x-rayed, to check When needed, MSB staff will join precisely for damage, or larvae infection. They vary massively planned collecting expeditions overseas; “we in size and temperament. Orchid seeds are don’t just randomly drive around a country!” “Some of the notoriously short lived, and are so small they appear says Probert. Trip essentials include a pick- grizzlier seeds are like dust. In contrast a palm seed can be as big up truck, GPS, satellite telephones and all the collecting paraphernalia. To collect seeds you hard to get to and as a fist. Once passed as healthy, seeds are counted, shake plants, pick pods and ripened fruits. With we often employ moved to another drying room and packed into ideal collections numbering 10,000-20,000 seeds of a single species, sending tons of bigger local climbers to airtight containers. Le Parfait, the ubiquitous French glass storage jar, is preferred (the fleshier fruits back to the UK is not an option, get to the tops scientists here have done their research, and so these are cleaned in the field. of trees.” know what is really airtight). Labelled with “Sometimes it can be hazardous” Probert barcodes and serial numbers – embedded with tells me. “Some of the grizzlier seeds are hard to Robin Probert – MSB critical data – the seeds are filed away into get to and we often employ local climbers to get The drying process one of two shelf-clad cold stores, for a freezing to the tops of trees.” Expeditions occasionally -20˚C deep sleep. For some species, this is not camp out in the bush, but more often than not cold enough, these are instead kept in liquid MSB scientist at work scientists forego a night under canvas, for an nitrogen, cryogenically frozen at -196˚C air-conditioned hotel room – spreading out The only time these now dormant seeds their seed bounty, to start the drying process. are woken is if a sample is requested, or for Batches collected in the field are sent to routine germination (every 5-10 years). To the bank by regular couriers. Probert says that germinate, seeds are taken to labs lined with only occasionally they have had exotic bugs scores of incubators, set anywhere between fly out, assuring me, they are swiftly dealt 0-40˚C. Planted in agar (a sticky gel derived with, i.e. ‘destroyed’. Wrapped in cloth and from seaweed), they are monitored and scored. paper bags, seeds begin their drying process, When necessary germinated seeds make it out in an initial room set to 15% relative humidity of the Petri dish and into a planter, fulfilling and 15˚C, roughly the same atmosphere as their potential in the MSB’s greenhouse. an aeroplane cabin during landing. Although Just how long can seeds live for? If kept in a most can, Probert tells me not all seeds can be cold store, Probert is confident seeds should live dried. Usually it’s the big fleshy seeds from the for hundreds if not thousands of years. Some of tropics that don’t respond. But nor do seeds the oldest seeds in the bank’s possession can be of UK natives like oak, chestnut or sycamore. dated to 1802-03. They were found at London’s This is the law of the wild; there are no hard National Archive, in the wallet of a Dutch or fast rules. merchant from the period. Counting seeds for the stores Seed canisters The germination process 08 – Homes & London Homes & London – 09
The future issue Seed capital 01 Bank your own Seeds My own knowledge of botany is restricted to the boarders of the small patch of land that I work, with varying success, during the warmer months each year. Yes I grow from seed but these seeds are bought online, or from supermarkets. I have no idea how to gather, clean and store my own seeds. I am assured it is fairly straightforward. Although there are kits available to aid the The Proteaceae grown from a 200+ year old seed harvesting and drying process – the Millennium Seed Bank of course sells it’s own – anyone can use these lo-fi methods to get started. 02 01 Collect at the right time. Leave plants to go to seed. Collect when pods are dry and fruits are fully ripe. Stick to non-hybrid and wild species, and collect from the healthiest looking plants. C 02 M Collect different species in their own paper or cloth bag, labelling as you go. Keep species Y The merchant – Jan Teerlink – was aboard separate at all times. CM a ship, captured by the British, off the coast of 03 South Africa, and thrown into jail. It is thought 03 MY he had collected seeds on the mainland, and Scoop the seeds out of fleshy fruits and separate CY put them with his papers for safekeeping. the pulp. Spread them out to dry somewhere CMY Teerlink’s wallet contained 33 species, and well ventilated. Likewise leave your other of them the MSB managed to germinate just collections in breathable packets somewhere K three. A beautiful tall and exotic Proteaceae cool and dry. (Leucospermum) grown from 200+ year old seed is now maturing in the bank’s greenhouse. 04 A seed signifies the beginning of life, but in the Remove outer pods and clean seeds of debris case of the MSB’s collection, it is not the start using a sieve. Dry again. Desiccant aids can be of their story. used to aid this process. Consider placing seeds 04 in a porous bag above rice or charcoal – use three parts desiccant to one part seed. 05 Once dry put each species in a sealable jar, label with name, month and year of harvest. Add a self-indicating silica gel packet; they contain a methyl violet indicator which changes from green to orange when relative humidity is below 05 20-25%. If orange you are good to go. 06 Keep seeds in a cool, dry environment. Collecting and storing is worth it, as these seeds will be better quality than those bought in humid garden centres; they promise more shoots, leaves, fruits and blooms. Please Enjoy Perrier-Jouët Responsibly 10 – Homes & London
The future issue Watch this space Today, anyone who can afford the price tag can buy a ticket for a real-life space adventure. We explore what it’s taken to make that dream a reality. Writer Josh Sims A conceptual illustration of Virgin Galactic astronauts 12 – Homes & London Homes & London – 13
The future issue Watch this space “ Look at the airline industry now: originally it was an expensive government programme that certainly didn’t haul people in the affordable way it does today, and the same change will take place with space travel,” argues Eugene Cernan. “The fact is that it’s an imminent natural evolution for us to realise we can’t ignore space any more.” Cernan might well have more appreciation than many as to how the idea of everyday spaceflight is now taking, if not giant leaps, then clearly more than small steps. He was, after all, the last man to walk on the moon. The sci-fi notion of holidays in space – a trip to the Costa del Solar, if you will – may be some generations away, despite demand: when, 16 years ago, Thomas Cook started taking names for prospective space tours, ostensibly as a PR stunt, it had to close the list after 10,000 applications were made. But the chance to temporarily leave the planet at least now looks to become a reality. By 2015, Richard Branson’s Virgin Galactic will, assuming all goes to plan, have taken paying passengers into low- orbit, allowed them to experience a zero-gravity environment, and returned them home. Home, in this new age, being Earth. A trip on Galactic will cost around $250,000. But, importantly, that is a price accessible to millions of people rather than to just a handful – the likes of Dennis Tito, the aptly-named Mark Shuttleworth and other space tourists so far who have paid tens of millions to go into space on Soyuz missions. “I’ve grown tired of people regarding [mass] space tourism as unachievable,” says Peter Diamandis – the man who lit the fuse with his X-Prize, an American national contest begun in 1996 and offering a $10m award to the first private company to develop an RLV – re- useable launch vehicle, an acronym you can expect to read a lot in years to come – capable of taking passengers into sub-orbital space. That prize was won by the US company Scaled Composites, with which Branson has joined forces to launch his new service. “Some people still think of it all as fanciful – but 100 years ago the idea of hopping on a 747 was unimaginable,” Diamandis adds. “There’s only one marketplace to get space travel moving: self- loading carbon payloads. People, in others words. SpaceShipTwo Flight Path Tourism will drive space travel.” 14 – Homes & London Homes & London – 15
The future issue Watch this space Whether bigger, bolder ideas come to return, as fantastic as possible. “The first reaction entrepreneur Elon Musk, which last year became pass nobody can yet say: Bigelow Aerospace, one might have to the idea of going into space is the world’s first privately-held company to send formed by Robert Bigelow, owner of Budget ‘wow!’ – so from the designer’s point of view it’s a cargo payload to the International Space Station. Suites of America, is working on a research and about recognising how passengers need to feel Then there is XCOR, a US company that has development programme for a space cruiser. The in this position,” explains Richard Seymour, co- tested the first privately-built rocket-powered Space Island Group wants to use 12 spent Space founder of London-based Seymourpowell, which airplane, and which is also developing its Lynx Shuttle fuel tanks to build a space hotel 400 miles worked on the visualisation of the interior design spaceplane. Reaction Engines has brought its above the Earth. John Spencer, founder of the for Galactic. “It’s really all about the emotional Skylon pilotless craft to the proof-of-concept LA-based Space Tourism Society, argues among the growing billionaire class, the search for the ergonomics of the design. Spaceflight like this is an incredible experience. Even for me getting this phase. And Bristol Spaceplanes has published a design for what it says is a workable re-useable “ There are no words to describe being on the moon, you have to feel it. If you want to get imaginative ultimate brand sponsorship opportunity and the close to the Galactic project has been intoxicating. low orbit spaceplane based on affordable demand for ever more extreme vacationing will I flew on Concorde. That was amazing. And that technology proven since the 1960s. lead to the likes of orbital super-yachts within 15 was just a plane. Imagine what this will feel like.” Space, it seems, is set to be big business. And years and the America’s Cup Off-World within 20. “The cycle of response to these ideas is to While much of the interest in space travel is fueled by the aim of getting satellite and other many of its leading players, as David Ashford, founder of Bristol Spaceplanes and author of about it, it’s like being on God’s front porch, faced laugh, then say it can’t be done, and then do it,” he says. “And the likes of the Galactic is important in technologies into space more affordably, or by that of cutting journey times between spots on the forthcoming ‘Space Exploration: All That Matters’ (Hodder), notes, embody “the pioneer with the endlessness of time and space.” making people realise just what might be possible. Earth to a matter of minutes rather than several approach – that’s what is driving the evolution It will only take the first international celebrity in hours, Virgin is not alone among the private of space travel now. Government agencies have Eugene Cernan space, then the first honeymoon in space, to keep ventures – and adventurers – seeking to get more the budget streams but are too entrenched in building desire and interest.” people out of this world. Among those set to prove habits of thinking, notably giving up on the crucial Certainly Virgin is thinking in ways akin to competitors for the company are the likes of idea of re-useable spacecraft. And, of course, the five star hospitality industry, bringing in a Boeing’s Orbital Express project, Sierra Nevada’s they’re hampered by anxiety about the total re- host of big name designers – Richard Rogers, Dream Chaser, Paul Allen’s Stratosphere plane, conception of space and how it is used that will Philippe Starck, Seymourpowell – to make the and the Falcon vehicles from Space X. This is follow these companies getting more and more entire trip, from spaceport stay to Galactic’s the space transport company founded by PayPal people up there.” WhiteKnightTwo and SpaceShipTwo in the Spaceport in Mojave. Photo by Mark Greenberg/Virgin Galactic 16 – Homes & London Homes & London – 17
The future issue Space tourism 2010 Virgin Galactic’s VSS Enterprise, 2016 The Dream Chaser, a crewed Watch this space past, present & future the world’s first commercial suborbital and orbital manned spaceship launches spaceplane being developed For the likes of Ashford, Galactic will be but 1996 for the first time – climbing to by Sierra Nevada Corporation The X Prize space competition an altitude of 45,000ft (13,716m). Space Systems, plans to carry a “good stepping stone”. The real excitement is announced (later renamed the up to seven people to and from begins when sub-orbital craft are superseded by ‘Ansari X Prize’). 26 teams from 2011 low Earth orbit. low-orbital craft – which must achieve the more around the world participate, The Virgin Galactic Gateway ranging from volunteer advanced feat of speeding at 17,500 mph to break to Space is declared open 2018 hobbyists to large corporate- Earth’s gravity, a feat that requires vastly more at Spaceport America, New Planned launch of Dennis Tito’s backed operations. Mexico – the world’s first privately financed spaceflight energy than a sub-orbital flight. “The first re-useable private spaceport designed to Mars. low-orbit spaceplane would revolutionise space 2001 by Foster + Partners. travel much as George Stephenson did land travel Space Adventures Ltd, a USA- 2020 and the Wright brothers did air travel,” he says. based space tourism company, 2012 The Space Island Project kicks-off the private spaceflight “To get space travel really off the ground we have Falcon 9, a rocket owned plans to have 20,000 people industry with the flight of the by SpaceX, a private space on their ‘space island’, with the to go fully orbital.” world's first space tourist, company, carries the unmanned number of people doubling Indeed, the quest to go further and further Dennis Tito. Dragon capsule into space each decade. into space, rather than simply skim its edge, is – marking the first time a 2004 private company has sent a growing too. Tom Shelley is president of Space 2023 The Ansari X Prize is won spacecraft to the space station. Adventures, a company developing its own sub- Plan for four humans to land on by Scaled Composites SpaceX anticipates that Dragon Mars for permanent settlement orbital programme but better known for organising using the experimental could be qualified for human – the first stage of Mars One. all eight space flights by private individuals to date, spaceplane SpaceShipOne – spaceflight within 3 years of the later joining forces with Richard receipt of NASA Commercial and which will be shooting singer Sarah Brightman Branson to launch the Virgin Crew Development funding 2028 to the stars – for some $50m – in October 2015, the Galactic service. (due mid-2014). Predicted start of extreme- same year Galactic takes off. And is it going further vacationing by billionaire class still, planning a mission passing around the dark 2005 Mars One is announced – in ‘orbital super yachts’. side of the moon for 2017. One person is already The Personal Spaceflight a private spaceflight project, Federation (PSF) is conceived led by Dutch entrepreneur 2033 under contract for that with a second expected by a group of leaders in Bas Lansdorp, to establish Mars One predicted to have to sign this year, at $150m a pop. the newly emerging private a permanent human colony 20 settlers in its colony and, “There are huge amounts of money now going spaceflight industry. on Mars. an America’s Cup ‘Off-World’ into development to allow people to get into space,” competition to be in the 2006 2013 sporting calendar. says Shelley. “Going into low Earth orbit is not Space Adventures Ltd begins Dennis Tito announces his that difficult anymore, so the likes of NASA are offering a spacewalk option to intention to send a privately less concerned about controlling the technology. its clients travelling to the ISS. financed spaceflight to Mars. And the whole scene has become much more The spacewalk would allow In 2018, the planets will participants to spend up to align, offering a unique orbit entrepreneurial. This kind of change always seems opportunity to travel to Mars 1.5 hours outside of the space just a couple of years away but sub-orbital travel is station and costs about US$15 and back to Earth in only absolutely going to happen now. In fact, space travel million (in addition to the price 501 days. is going to be huge – the market will be opened up of the space flight of approx. US$20 million). 2015 to millions of people around the world and the Virgin Galactic plan to start S m a r t ly next 15 years or so will see a dramatic increase in Anousheh Ansari becomes taking paying passengers vehicles to take them there. Then we need to tackle the fourth (and first female) into low-orbit – allowing them ‘proper’ spaceflight, which will require a step change space tourist. to experience a zero-gravity in technology – a space elevator, a new kind of environment. propulsion, bigger vehicles. That’s in the future.” 2008 Richard Garriott visits the Space Adventures Ltd plan Travelling further into deep space may in all ISS as the sixth self-funded to launch lunar missions to d r e ss e d reality not happen for centuries, or never happen tourist, returning 12 days later. circumnavigate the moon. at all: it would take four years to reach the nearest He becomes the second Pricing has been announced at person, and first American, US$100 million per passenger. star and that is at the theoretically-unsurpassable to be a second-generation speed of light; the impact on travellers’ physical and space traveller. Excalibur Almaz, a private psychological states may make it impossible. company based in the Isle But, in the meantime, even those lucky enough of Man, expects to undertake the first of their private voyages to catch a ride on Galactic should be prepared for a to the moon. life-changing experience. Cernan, of course, has experienced the ultimate in space travel yet known to man. “There are no words to describe being on the moon,” he says. “You have to feel it. If you want “ Travelling into space is to The things we wear are becoming intelligent. From internet-enabled to get imaginative about it, it’s like being on God’s enter the greatest unknown.” front porch, faced with the endlessness of time and space.” But he is in no doubt that even a taste of Eugene Cernan glasses that sense what interests us, to workout clothes designed that sparks feelings of awe and profundity. “You can walk the floor of the deepest ocean or stand on to improve posture. We discover how style is getting smarter. the highest mountain, but you’re still on Earth,” Writer Rebecca Hattersley he notes. “Travelling into space is to enter the greatest unknown.” 18 – Homes & London Homes & London – 19
The future issue Smartly dressed that features 100 tiny solar panels on the bag’s exterior, generating enough power for your TO BE AHEAD OF mobile device. Opening the bag also activates fibre optics to assist with finding your keys at THE GAME IS TO night. Snazzy. DEMONSTRATE Designer Richard Nicoll has fused fashion CAPABILITY, WHICH T he age of wearables is upon us. Fashion with technology in the form of a tote bag that can charge iPhone, Blackberry and Android designers and engineers are collaborating to develop smart garments that merge devices by plugging into a discreet pocket IN TURN OFFERS fashion with technology to great effect. No inside. An LED charm on the exterior of the bag flashes to alert the user of an incoming call. The RESILIENCE IN AN longer is identity and expression limited to our choice in clothing, but the sophisticated, even bag must be initially charged from the mains power via induction charging, using a cable that UNCERTAIN WORLD imperceptible, technologies embedded within. Technology touches every part of our lives, so it magnetically attaches to the outside, but once was only a matter of time before it aligned itself the battery is full, it will charge handsets and that eco fashion is no longer just a lifestyle on the fashion scape, shaping and influencing mobile tablets for at least two days. choice, but a smart choice that is working its way the wardrobe of tomorrow. In 2012 Nike brought us the FuelBand, into mainstream conscience. Of course, fashion would not be fashion a simple, lightweight device worn around the Wearable technology is advancing without the bold and attention seeking. In a wrist to track activity throughout the day. way beyond multitasking handbags and battle between function and innovation, it is Information is collected and sent to a profile in motivational talking trainers (Google). Colour- the designs that exceed limitations that drive order to capture, save and interpret the metrics changing couture dresses or strap-on cat’s ears demand. The arrival of wearable technology was in a meaningful way. LEDs indicate how far you that respond to the user’s brainwaves with an never going to be a quiet one. But there are also are towards your goal. The FuelBand, rather appropriate wiggle, flop or perk are available, the practical and relevant designs: tech fashions pleasingly, lights up with the word GOAL when should you so desire. But there is also evidence that are helping people to navigate their lives you’ve made it. A product with the potential to of more serious work being done: data gloves more easily. rival the FuelBand is the Armour39 monitoring that help to diagnose arthritis and GPS-enabled 03 garments designed with female safety in mind. Under the heading of wearable technology system from American sports brand, Under are three principal and interrelated platforms: Armour, currently being developed but Regardless of where the future takes us social interaction, health and wellbeing, and promising to be “the first true measure of there will always be those products and designs 04 sustainability. The designers that are really an athlete”. that verge on the weird and not so wonderful. getting it right are focusing on the inherent Move is a technology garment that guides Wherever fashion goes, novelty will surely technology within a product, enhancing user the user toward optimal performance and follow. Arguments will continue that such intelligence and seamlessly augmenting our precision in movement. The athletic top is products are catering for a supposed gap that suitable for a range of activities including doesn’t actually need filling – fine for celebrities personal needs and desires. THE DESIGNERS pilates, yoga and golf, helping to alleviate and athletes, but what about the rest of us. THAT ARE REALLY incorrect physical movement. The garment includes stretch and bend sensors located in But to be ahead of the game is to demonstrate capability, which in turns offers resilience in an GETTING IT RIGHT the front, back and sides, which together read uncertain world. A 3D printed dress is nothing your body’s position and muscle movement, if not ambitious. The designs of Iris van Herpen 02 ARE FOCUSING assess whether it is correct and provide real- are undeniably artful sculptures, resembling We are experiencing a revolution of time feedback to improve it. Move is still in something closer to body armour – a post- connectivity. Things have come a long way ON THE INHERENT development stage with electricfoxy, a Seattle- apocalyptic response, perhaps? Earlier this year since the humble calculator watch of the 1980s, based company that works to blend fashion, Nike unveiled their Nike Vapor Laser Talon, possibly one of the first universal examples of TECHNOLOGY technology and interactive design, but the built specifically for the 40-yard dash, using a technology driven fashion accessory. Google Glass, an internet-connected, voice-controlled WITHIN A PRODUCT, market for stylish workout gear that doubles as a personal trainer is clearly growing. a revolutionary 3D printed plate to provide optimum traction on football turf, helping computer and camera is without doubt one of this year’s breakout products, as seen on the ENHANCING USER There’s no escaping that consumer habits such as fast fashion are impacting on the footballers to achieve their full potential. 3D printing is just one example of how technology runway at Diane von Furstenberg’s Spring/ INTELLIGENCE planet with negative consequence. For some is working with the human body in pioneering Summer 2013 show. Apple’s iWatch is proof the future of fashion lies not in design but in new ways, admittedly with varying degrees that speculation is one of the most powerful AND SEAMLESSLY smarter fabrics. Textile innovator, Elisabeth of sensibility. marketing tools. Whilst still very much under de Senneville’s recent work has shown clothing In our needs-driven society we are always wraps, rumours include a 90s slap-band strap, AUGMENTING OUR lined with a thin layer of charcoal as a filter looking for a solution to a problem. Much like curved battery (for which a patent has been against pollution. Other work includes a light in fashion, needs are contrary, diverse and awarded) and an aesthetic appealing to both PERSONAL NEEDS weave of silver metal, which protects against ever changing. In an attempt to satisfy our sexes. Something we can be more certain of is heavy competition from other tech giants; AND DESIRES the magnetic waves omitted from mobile phone usage. And it doesn’t stop there. By using a continuously shifting demands, industry has responded with innovation. We have proven Smartphone manufacturer Samsung is also recipe of yeast, sweetened tea and bacteria, ourselves to be adaptive in the face of change, in the process of joining the Smartwatch 01 Electricfoxy Ping London-based designer, Suzanne Lee is literally possibly because of our preoccupation with bandwagon. 02 Eclipse solar bag growing clothes that are surprisingly attractive. the future. You need only observe the number Continuing with the theme of gadgets 03 Concept Apple iWatch design With the fashion textile industry desperately of people with a Smartphone, now a norm for but from more of an ecological angle is the by Esben Oxholm looking to reduce its carbon footprint, Lee’s most – an almost unconscious accessory. use of solar-powered accessories. Diffus, an 04 Diane von Furstenberg's S/S 2013 BioCouture has already gathered interest from Brace yourself – we are entering a high tech interactive design firm, have created a handbag show featuring Google Glass several global clothing manufacturers. It seems fashion future. 01 20 – Homes & London Homes & London – 21
Photograph by Chris Terry from Jelly with Bompas & Parr (published by Anova) movers+ shakers London has always been a magnet for creators and entrepreneurs. www.chateauforgeduroy.com We meet five of todays brightest and best. Email: jax@chateauforgeduroy.com Writer Claire Walsh Tel: +33 (0)553 088325 Mob: +44 (0)7967 592842 #chateaufdr Homes & London – 23
The future issue in your school dressing gown." Movers+shakers I don't entirely understand, MS Don't make compromises; but it's stuck with me. be concerned about doing good work. Is it the location – smack between east and west, with H&L The best professional advice the Greenwich meridian running dissecting the city in you would give? H&L And the best professional two? Or the scores of respected universities located here, SB Spend a couple hours a day advice you would give? Martina Spetlova’s AW13 collection attracting young bright minds? Or is it the idiosyncratic on the phone. wit and colliding cultures that makes London one of the best cities in the world to be a creative? Photograph by Nathan Pask H&L Where do you go in the city Don't make for inspiration? “Even in the US, you'd be stretched to find an example of a city that can boast of having all this in one place,” Q&A SB The Sir John Soane Museum, Q&A compromises; Martina Spetlova points out Seena Rejal, one of the London’s new wave Sam Bompas Designer and co-founder a strange house belonging to one of Britain's foremost Fashion designer be concerned of Internet entrepreneurs. “It's usually one or the other: financial capital, tech capital, or political capital.” of Bompas & Parr architects. It is a cabinet of Czech-born Spetlova is a trained about doing We spoke to five of London’s most exciting names Bompas & Parr cast culinary curiosities crammed full of architectural ornaments, looted chemist but switched her focus and home city of Prague, when good work. MS to find out what it is about the city that excites them wizardry all over London by from round the world. He even she moved to London to study and pushes them to create. designing and staging grand H&L Where do you go in the had a live-in mystic. at the city’s prestigious fashion scale experiential gastronomy city for inspiration? H&L And where do you go school of Central Saint Martins. Tata Naka, photo: Alexandra Constantinides events and installations. Their MS Of course I browse libraries, in the city to relax? “Londoners are cosmopolitan”, reputation for frivolity has go to exhibitions and get inspired SB The Barbican's secret jungle she says of her adopted home, attracted clients including by the city, but after that initial conservatory is one of the lushest “it is great for that.” Selfridges, Kraft Foods and research I start experimenting Courvoisier. Not bad for places in London combining The buzz surrounding the city’s with colour and texture. I am something that started life as Brutalist architecture, tropical fashion scene is tangible and very hands-on, and my best ideas “something fun to do on the plants and terrapins. it offers a young designer like come from working at my studio. weekend”, as Bompas puts it. Spetlova support and a showcase H&L When you are away from H&L And where do you go London what do you miss for her work, which features In the past they have flooded in the city to relax? most about it? woven, pleated and puckered 33 Portland Place with over MS I walk on the embankment SB The folk who live in the leathers in eye-watering bright four tonnes of alcoholic punch on a quiet day. city; beneath the steely veneer colourways. and cast London’s most prized Londoners have a kindness and H&L When you are away from architectural landmarks in jelly. H&L Where do you live in London humour that is totally missed London what do you miss This summer Bompas & Parr will and how long have you been somewhere like New York. most about it? transform the Palm House pond in the city? MS Good coffee. at Kew Gardens into the Tutti MS I moved here about 15 years H&L If you were mayor for the Frutti Lake – a giant fruit salad ago and I have always lived in H&L What is your most lasting day what would you do? navigable by rowboats. east London. memory of the city? SB Dye the Thames green. MS When I cycled The Parkland H&L How long have you lived H&L Where is work and what is H&L Best place for a breakfast Walk; it is an old railway line that in the city? the best thing about your office? meeting? runs from Finsbury Park all the SB I am a native, so my entire life. MS My studio is in Dalston where SB Albion restaurant. way to Edgware. I'm sharing warehouse space with H&L Where is work and what is H&L Best spot after hours? other designers/makers. The best H&L If you were mayor for the best thing about your office? SB There's joy to be found in thing is that it is 15 minutes' walk the day what would you do? SB Our studio is just between London's local pubs. The Lord from my house, but I look out MS Better cyclist roads please. Tate Modern and Borough Clyde is directly between my on a red brick wall. Market. We are blessed with fine H&L Best place for a breakfast studio and house, and is a beauty. ingredients and inspiration all the H&L Why did you initially choose meeting? year round. H&L Tell us a fact about the to set up in London? MS Canal cafe on a sunny day. city that we might not know. MS After graduating from Central H&L Why do you think London is H&L Best spot after hours? Saint Martins it was an obvious a good city to be an entrepreneur MS Anywhere in Dalston or a start-up? The first over- choice to stay here. in general. SB The Greenwich Meridian H&L Why do you think London is arbitrarily runs through the ground train a good city to be an entrepreneur H&L Best view? MS At night, the top floor of capital. Over the past year we've been working in six of the seven that ran through or a start-up? MS London offers lots of support the Regents studio building, continents, so it's been helpful London was to young fashion companies. H&L Tell us a fact about the in terms of arranging phone calls. disguised as a It is also more challenging to stand out and to make a point city that we might not know. MS I just recently learned that H&L What is the best piece of professional advice you series of boats of difference. it was mostly women who built Waterloo Bridge. have received? SB The only advice I remember so it didn't alarm H&L What is the best piece of professional advice you is bewildering and was given people. SB have received? as I left. "Never commit adultery Strawberry Tender, photo: Nathan Pask Photography 24 – Homes & London Homes & London – 25
The future issue multi-disciplinary fields, and H&L How long have you H&L What does the city offer that H&L If you were mayor for Movers+shakers we draw on London's massive been in the city? you could not get elsewhere? the day what would you do? creative culture to feed web PO I’ve been here for over 12 PO London has influences from PO I would multiply the efforts developments. years, with a few stints abroad. absolutely everywhere and these to tackle the number of cycle collide with English wit. accidents in the city. Of all the H&L What does the city offer H&L Where is work and what is cities I have cycled in, London that you could not get elsewhere? the best thing about your office? H&L What is the best piece is by far the worst. SR A melange of leading PO I both live and have my studio of professional advice you universities, financial institutions, in the Brunswick Centre. The have received? H&L Best place for creative agencies, think tanks best thing about the space is the a breakfast meeting? and policy institutions, linked Q&A sunlight and glimpsing my small Stay on the Bus. PO Espresso Room on Great together by a comprehensive Pernilla Ohrstedt tree collection on the terrace. Ormond Street – amazing coffee, Q&A infrastructure and fused by London’s unique culture, which Architect and co-founder H&L Why did you initially choose Look up Helsinki plenty of seats, great people. of Pernilla-Asif Dr Seena Rejal is a mix of tradition, idiosyncrasy to set up in London? PO I came to study art and Bus Station H&L Best spot after hours? PO I like dancing. Notting Hill Internet entrepreneur Stockholm-born Ohrstedt works and CEO of 3D Industri.es and innovation. as an architect, designer and design at Saint Martins and then Theory for an Arts Club has never let me down. H&L What is the best piece Rejal is part of London’s new of professional advice you curator; “London has by far the most interesting scene right now architecture at the Bartlett. That took seven years! I got hooked on explanation. PO H&L Best view? Internet revolution. His start-up PO Regents Canal. Walk or cycle have received? for young architects,” she thinks. the city and found it hard 3D Industri.es is organising an H&L And the best professional eastwards in the morning and SR Sometimes it is better to ask She works in a collaborative to leave. internet of objects with a search advice you would give? westwards in the evening. for forgiveness than permission. partnership with Asif Khan, and engine that allows users to search H&L Why do you think London PO Stay on the Bus. together they designed the H&L Tell us a fact about the the web for 3D parts and plans. H&L And the best professional is a good city to be an celebrated interactive Coca-Cola H&L And where do you city that we might not know. “It's an exciting time to be here,” advice you would give? entrepreneur or a start-up? pavilion for the London 2012 go in the city to relax? PO The Eros statue on Piccadilly Rejal, a born Londoner explains. SR Always consult but have PO It has some of the best design Olympic Park. Visitors could play PO I stay at home! is in fact Anteros Agape, Eros’s “And it’s pre-saturation point, conviction in your eventual schools in the world that attracts the fractious and faceted red prudish brother. It is by Sir Alfred so it is on the rise.” He believes decisions. young talent. A lot of that talent H&L What is your most lasting box like a musical instrument. Gilbert, and is one of the first London’s location, perfectly stays. This means an endless memory of the city? H&L When you are away from Ohrstedt spent most of last statues to be cast in aluminum, positioned between east and potential to collaborate with PO Running with the Olympic London what do you miss most summer at the park; “some of the which is how it can balance west, will ensure it remains an creative clever people. torch last summer! about it? best months of my life,” she says. so elegantly on one leg. international hub. “When a man is tired of London” he says acknowledging the old adage, London! “he is tired of life!” Seriously, it's that H&L Where do you live in London and how long have you been mix of having in the city? SR Born and bred in London. everything, but Now I live in Pimlico, overlooking with the right the river. level of intensity H&L Where is work and what is the best thing about your office? – it's just right. SR SR I have a fantastic studio space adjoining my apartment. Our H&L What is your most building had a brief moment lasting memory of the city? of glory as a backdrop to scenes SR The Olympics of the summer in the latest Bond movie. gone is prominent. H&L Why did you initially choose H&L Best place for to set up in London? a breakfast meeting? SR It was emerging as an Internet SR The Wolseley or the hub and we wanted to be part Regency Café. of it. Resources seemed more H&L Best view? readily accessible. Also, London SR Waterloo Bridge at night, is a great brand and any business looking both up and down gains from that association. the river. H&L Why do you think London is H&L Tell us a fact about the a good city to be an entrepreneur city that we might not know. or a start-up? SR The Mitras temples found SR Start-up culture has now in the city are a direct link with well and truly arrived here. the Persians via the Romans. There is an enormous amount happening across intersecting Coca-Cola Beatbox by Asif Khan and Pernilla Ohrstedt, photo: Hufton & Crow 26 – Homes & London Homes & London – 27
The future issue Movers+shakers H&L What does the city offer that you can’t get elsewhere? TC It is such a cosmopolitan city. We are so near Europe and there are so many connections. H&L What is the best piece of professional advice you Deluxe room at The Zetter Townhouse have received? Q&A TC Work hard or look busy. Tony Conigliaro H&L The best professional advice Bartender and owner of you would give? 69 Colebrooke Row and TC Work hard or look busy. The Zetter Townhouse It is a good one to pass on. Born in Greenwich, Conigliaro H&L Where do you go has run some of the city’s best in the city for inspiration? bars. His experimental and TC There are loads of places. molecular approach to mixing The museums – the V&A is led him to co-founding the Drinks especially good; any number Factory, a creative lab for like- of the parks; or any number minded bartenders to come and of the restaurants. innovate the craft. Conigliaro loves London; “it is only when you H&L And where do you show others round your own city, go in the city to relax? do you realise how many great TC My back garden. things there are here.” With two H&L When you are away from successful bars already found London what do you miss most in the city, the entrepreneur set about it? his sites on the other side of the TC The Londoner’s sense channel and opened his latest of humour. venture, Le Cog, in Paris late last year. H&L What is your most lasting memory of the city? H&L How long have you lived TC There are too many to in the city? mention. When I think of London TC I’m a Londoner. I have lived I think of it as a sum of a whole north, west, south and east in the load of different parts. city but right now I live off the Gray’s Inn Road – it’s so central. H&L If you were mayor for I can get to work by walking, I can the day what would you do? get to the Eurostar by walking TC I’d take the day off! and I can get to a major airport H&L Best spot after hours? very easily. TC Drinking? We can’t condone H&L Where is work and what is that! One of the hotel bars. the best thing about your office? H&L Best view? TC We have a fantastic research TC The best view in London and development lab in the at the moment is from the Oblix Drinks Factory, which is located restaurant on the 32nd floor in an old building where Pink of the Shard. Floyd used to record. H&L Tell us a fact about the city H&L Why do you think London is that we might not know. a good city to be an entrepreneur or a start-up? TC I’ve lived here all my life. Stalin and It would have been strange to set up somewhere else. There Lenin met for REFLECT YOUR STYLE is such diversity and energy here; it can be very inspiring. the first time INTRODUCING THE STERLING COLLECTION on Clerkenwell Green. TC Luxury Leather Goods and Accessories Hand Crafted in the United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)20 8877 1616 Tony Conigliaro 28 – Homes & London
The future issue The diary Until 15 Sep 3 – 7 Jul 3 – 7 Jul Polo Henley Royal Regatta Boston Ballet Windsor Great Park, Henley-on-Thames London Coliseum Performance arts Events Egham, Surrey and River Thames The Boston Ballet Enjoy a season of polo Enjoy five days of returns to London Visual arts Museum Exhibition this summer at the Regatta racing from for the first time Plan your future with our pick of the Windsor Great Park top level to student in 30 years with a most interesting events taking place Sport Fashion in Surrey. www.guardspoloclub.com and junior level in the women’s and dynamic programme of classical and across the capital this Summer. Food & Drink Shopping men’s category. contemporary dance. www.hrr.co.uk/crews/ www.eno.org information/events Jaap Oepkes Until 5 Jul Until 7 Jul 9 – 14 Jul 9 – 14 Jul 10 Jul – 16 Feb 2014 Master Paintings Week The Championships Hampton Court Kew the Music Club to Catwalk: London Various Locations Wimbledon Palace Flower Show Kew Gardens Fashion in the 1980s Master Paintings Week highlights a wide selection Watch defending Hampton See Blondie, Victoria & Albert of European paintings dating from the 15th to the champions and Court Palace The Human Museum July 20th centuries. www.masterpaintingsweek.co.uk young hopefuls compete in the traditional The largest of the RHS flower shows is a rich source League and Jools Holland perform at the annual A tribute to London fashion in the 80s, with designs from Katharine grass-court tennis of inspiration outdoor summer Hamnett, Betty Jackson tournament. for professional music festival. and more. www.wimbledon.com and amateur www.kew.org www.vam.ac.uk gardeners alike. www.rhs.org.uk © Cesare Lampronti Art Broker Finance Ltd Heather Appleton © Saul Leiter HackelBury Fine Art courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery Until 27 Jul Until 18 Aug Until 1 Sep 11 – 14 Jul 11 – 14 Jul 12 – 13 Jul Saul Leiter Summer Exhibition Gary Hume and Coronation Festival Goodwood Festival of Speed First July Huckleberry Fine Art Royal Academy Patrick Caulfield Buckingham Palace Goodwood Park Weekend Raceday A London debut of Arts Tate Britain A four-day festival Thousands of motorsports fans flock to Sussex’s Royal Ascot for the retrospective The world’s An exhibition devoted in the gardens of Goodwood Park estate each summer to see Enjoy a competitive selection of Saul oldest and largest to two British artists; Buckingham Palace endurance racers and championship-winning cars. seven-race card on Leiter’s beautiful and open-submission Gary Hume, who has marks the 60th www.goodwood.co.uk Property Raceday exuberant paintings contemporary art won critical acclaim anniversary of the (Friday), and the Group and painted show attracts for his innovative use Queen's coronation. 2 Transformers and photographs picked more than 150,000 of colour and Patrick www.coronation Rectifiers Summer from his personal visitors each year. Caulfield, a painter and festival.com Mile on Saturday to collection. www.royalacademy.org.uk printmaker known for continue this summer’s www.hackelbury.co.uk his bold canvases. flat racing season. www.tate.org.uk www.ascot.co.uk John Bodkin © Royal Academy of Arts Tulips, 2009, © Tate Britain Ian Jones Maksim Toome / Shutterstock.com Until 1 Sep Until 1 Sep Until 15 Sep 12 – 14 Jul 12 Jul – 7 Sep 18 – 21 Jul Blumenfeld Studio IncrEdibles BP Portrait Wireless Festival BBC Proms Cirque du Soleil New York, 1941-1960 Kew Gardens Award Queen Elizabeth Royal Albert Hall Alegría, The O2 Somerset House Bompas & Parr is transforming National Olympic Park The eight-week True to its name Erwin Blumenfeld – a Berlin- the Palm House pond into Portrait Gallery The Wireless 2013 Proms season – Alegría means born dada artist-turned- the Tutti Frutti experience A showcase line-up includes can always be 'joy' in Spanish fashion photographer as part of the weird and of the best in headline acts Justin relied on to inject – this acrobatic became a leader in his field wonderful world of incredible contemporary Timberlake and Jay new life into spectacle when he moved to New York edible plants at Kew Gardens’ portrait painting Z, as well as some classical music. captures the in the 1940s. This exhibition summer festival. Enjoy a from across of the biggest www.bbc.co.uk/proms energy of youth. of more than a hundred works unique view of Kew and visit the globe. names in rap and www.cirquedu homes in on the decades. the giant Pineapple Island www.npg.org.uk hip hop. soleil.com www.somersethouse.org.uk at the centre of the pond. www.wireless www.kew.org/incredibles festival.co.uk Spring Fashion 1953 for Vogue ©The Estate of Erwin Blumenfeld Bompas and Parr Chris Christodoulou 30 – Homes & London Homes & London – 31
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