HAUTE COUTURE AUTUMN WINTER 2020-2021 - LOOKBOOK - Azzi & Osta
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HAUTE COUTURE AUTUMN WINTER 2020 – 2021 RÊVE FLAMAND T R AV EL, EV EN THRO U G H DR EAMS : Drift and get carried away. The pandemic that The AZZI & OSTA Autumn Winter 2020-2021 ‘Rêve Flamand’ evoques optimism and hope. 01 distanced us from the outer world last spring, collection has been overtaken by the shared The collection was almost ready when the C O LLE C T I O N inspired AZZI & OSTA’s duo designers to passion of the two creators for Art History. explosion at the Port of Beirut devastated the The pandemic that distanced us from the outer world escape closed doors through their unparal- Among the faille and the silk organza, the studio. Dedicating their new creations to their last spring, inspired AZZI & OSTA’s duo designers to leled imagination transporting them to crepe, the tulle, the lace and the velvet, the shattered city as much as to the world escape closed doors through their unparalleled navigate the endless canals of Amsterdam. grandmasters of an imaginary museum were disoriented by the pandemic, AZZI & OSTA are imagination transporting them to navigate the endless This obsessive escape was first centered invited. committed more than ever to their mission to canals of Amsterdam. around the tulip, its vivid colors, its fascinating The Lowlands took over with captivating give shape to a bright future, and to bet on frills and then extended to the infinite palette charm like a spell infiltrating the collection’s happy days. of colorful fields and the joy it sparked for the fabric, in colorful landscapes. 21 two creators to contribute to the enchant- ment their world. NEW BEGINNINGS From the same spirit, white parrot tulip petals in organza and tulle imitate a bouquet of feathers on a T H E CO LLECTI O N sculptural dress in translucent Chantilly lace, embroidered with patterns of branches and stems on Rembrandt plays in the depth of black a medieval flare with its mid-length, flared and A 50s pleated train cape, held in place by a which sparkles a dew of crystals. golden chiaroscuro which complements embroidered sleeves, supported by a knotted belt, completes the ensemble with velvet with velvet. Embroidery in golden signature shoulder in large stylized knots. majesty. threads, lit with pearls, are sown on an ‘Mer du Nord’ the deep blue of the collection, The ribbon bow belt plays in this collection the oversized jacket with large lapels, dropped an ultramarine jumpsuit embroidered with role of a red thread borrowed, out of admira- shoulders and puffed sleeves reminiscent of indigo tulips, extended by a cape lined with a tion, from the Trompe-l’œil of Samuel Van the ‘Queen of night’ tulips, a fairyland where stream of frilly blue tulle imitating the Hoogstraten, painter of the 17th C. known for petals, dragonflies and pineapples coexist in freedom of crushing waves… his hyperrealistic assemblages of motley harmony. objects held by cords. Trompe-l’œil elements This sumptuous piece is accompanied by a ‘Vincent’s Vase’, how can you go wrong with appear through the collection in tactile black jumpsuit adorned with complementary this immersion in the iconic ‘Vase of Roses’, a collages inspired by Flemish tiles on a white patterns, ending with an imposing choker vibrant still life by Van Gogh where the painter organza coat. collar, embroidered with crystals and applied a combination of the most beautiful The House of Orange is represented by an baroque pearls. The whole is called greens to wrap the white-touched heckling of asymmetrical dress cut in an abundance of “Rembrandt Gold”. a disheveled bouquet. silk faille from the bright orange of the ‘Orange The blues in the collection are unmissable: princess’ tulip, short from the front and long ‘Bleu de Delft’ is embodied in a sumptuous A couture tribute to this masterpiece is a from the back in an impressive ball gown long dress with a ball petticoat and precious three-piece, hourglass-cut silhouette dominated by an oversized jacket embroi- hand-painted petals. reminiscent of a vase, carved out by a soft dered with shimmering crystals in a cross ‘Letter to Vermeer’, a wide dress in powdered green peplum corset embroidered with silk pattern. sky, in a contemporary silhouette offsetting its organza flowers, topping an ankle-length skirt. 1.
V I NCE NT’ S V A S E 7.
HO L L A N DE 11.
P UR P L E P R I N C E 12.
P A YS - BA S 13.
T UL I P E NO I RE 7.
T UL I P E NO I RE 15.
B LE U D E D E LF T 16.
TR O MP E - L ’Œ IL 17.
R E MBR A N DT G O L D 18.
16.
MA TI N F L A MA N D 20.
N E W B EG I NNI NGS From the same spirit, white parrot tulip petals embroidery of threads and gold chains in organza and tulle imitate a bouquet of concentrated on the corset then further feathers on a sculptural dress in translucent scattered, accompanying a slow fall of petals Chantilly lace, embroidered with patterns of on the princess skirt to the hem… More than a branches and stems on which sparkles a dew motif, the tulip is here a lucky charm and a of crystals. A heavy cream satin train sculpts talisman. the shoulders and long sleeves, emphasizing on the richness of the piece like a frame. In the absence of any exterior, the collection has been photographed in the old-fashioned The ‘White Parrot’ set is part of a small series of charm of the Maison de Gournay, rue wedding dresses created in the spirit of Trabaud, in Beirut. There, the walls covered renewal and joy that underlies the collection. with paper or fabric, painted or embroidered One, with a short corset and butterfly sleeves with landscapes of floral or bucolic inspira- in white satin, flares out in tulle to the ground tion, some borrowed from the great currents under a shower of silk petals. of interior design or from artists of all eras, offered an ideal field to develop around The other is a tulle sheath embroidered with dresses of endless narratives. Between wall tulip motifs sprinkled with gold under an coverings, porcelain, fabrics and curtains imposing pleated tulle drop, highlighted by a made by creatives and craftsmen, de large pastel pink bow. The last is a flow of Gournay signs interiors whose philosophy transparent white tulle exceeding a petticoat responds to Baudelaire’s Invitation to a of corolla tulle, short in front, long from the Voyage, precisely inspired by Holland. back, structured by an embroidered corset. Finally, mimicking the final chapter from an Andersen tale, ‘Gold dust’, the ultimate wedding dress, at the crossroads of dreams and traditional know-how, bare shoulders, pointed neckline, puffed Julliette sleeves, draped diagonally over the bust and waist, rain of tulips veined with light gold on ivory silk, 21.
W HI TE S P L E N DO R 22.
WHITE SPLENDOR 19.
P E R R O Q UE T BL A N C 7.
P E R R O Q UE T BL A N C 25.
GO L D D US T 26.
G OLD D U ST
W W W .A Z Z I A ND O STA . CO M couture@azziandosta.com
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