From My Perspective: The Future of Clothing

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From My Perspective: The Future of Clothing
Joseph Coates

CLOTHES ARE A CONUNDRUM FOR THE FUTURIST. They are nearly universally worn and a worldwide industry spends tons
of money to present the new, must-have stuff to would-be customers. And yet, there have been no significant studies of the
future of clothing.

The history and the anthropology               century and the early 20th century,            rather dramatically in the last three
of clothes are in good shape, but              there were black armbands for men              decades made even more common
when one looks out a decade or                 that announced bereavement.                    “dressing down,” rather than
more, the situation is worse than              Those cultural elements marking                dressing up, especially outside
“anyone’s guess,” it is a matter of            the end of a life have, in the United          work. Steadily, however, leisure
complete indifference. The movie               States, almost disappeared except              and recreational garb are making it
and television industry, which have            that one wears conservative clothes            onto the business scene. Today,
nearly unlimited money to put into             and most, if not quite all, people             Forbes, Fortune, and Business
making high-quality films, reflect             dress in their Sunday best for a               Week show the few surviving new
the same lack of insight into the              funeral.                                       tycoons of Silicon Valley in
future. Consider the characters on                                                            extremely relaxed garb. Changing
                                               As part of culture there is the
Star Trek; they all dress in                                                                  attitudes toward a more congenial,
                                               inevitability of social change.
metalized long johns. Films of                                                                stress-free workplace has given us
                                               Women’s entry into the workforce
combat in the future are barely                                                               dress-down Friday. That has not
                                               on a large scale has happened twice
more than comic parodies of                                                                   escaped corporate regimentation.
                                               in the lifetime of many readers. The
medieval knights in their metallic                                                            All clothiers at noticeable cost
                                               first in WWII when all of the Rosie
clothing speckled with fantastic                                                              provide the new regimented
                                               the Riveters adopted men’s
gimcracks and push buttons of                                                                 garments suitable for dress-down
                                               industrial coveralls and overalls
uncertain functions. Let us explore                                                           Friday, making it barely a step
                                               and made only one significant
this intellectually arid landscape to                                                         ahead toward loosening up the
                                               concession to femininity, a colored
look at what is shaping the future                                                            workplace.
                                               bandana to keep their long hair out
of clothing.
                                               of harm’s way. That did not survive            The trend toward more comfort
First of all, there is the question of         the war. The need to celebrate                 and informality will move men to
fashion. Fashion and clothing are              victory and to enjoy the emerging              wear short pants during the
so intimately linked that we must              prosperity of the country made                 summer season and at other times,
consider them as twins joined at               women’s clothes more lavish and                in white-collar work. The trend
the hip. Fashion may move rapidly              generous in fabric, in ways not seen           toward working at home,
or slowly, but always in the context           for 30 years. The more drastic                 particularly for those people who
of culture, which moves at a far               change in women’s dress as well as             spend some time in a conventional
slower pace. Culture is an                     in young men’s began in the 1960s              office and some time at home, will
especially potent factor in clothing,          when middle-class women entered                push more informality and comfort
and is in turn, influenced by                  the work force in massive numbers.             at both places.
climate, the annual cycle of weather           Now, they are in the workforce
                                                                                              Pants for woman have now become
change, and local raw materials. In            almost in parity of numbers with
                                                                                              acceptable in all work contexts.
the modem era, changes in clothing             men. The new jobs for women were
                                                                                              More significant is the radical
occurred with cultural transitions             not primarily blue-collar but white-
                                                                                              reduction of age differences in
from the 18th to the 19th and from             collar and office work, which
                                                                                              choice of clothes. Most old people,
the 19th to the 20th centuries. For            commits them to more formal
                                                                                              i.e., over 50, function as if they
example, clothes associated with               clothes. Clothes distinguish a
                                                                                              were 10 years younger than they
death and funerals were invariably             woman who has a white-collar job
                                                                                              are chronologically. Their better
black and worn for a very long time.           from those who do not and further
                                                                                              health also contributes to their
In the 18th century, a middle-class            mark the upwardly mobile in their
                                                                                              dressing in the clothes of a younger
widow’s weeds were worn for 21                 “dress for success.” On the other
                                                                                              crowd. Older women are dressing
months. Then, during the 19th                  hand, social changes going on

From My Perspective: The Future of Clothing from Technological Forecasting & Social Change (vol. 72, no. 1 • Jan. 2005)   Page 1 of 8
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in stylish pants like their younger            showed up in the postwar decade,               any hint of the effeminate.
sisters, and in many regards like              radically altered, in all men’s wear.
                                                                                              I wore my first blue jeans while
their adult children. At the other
                                               Prisoners’ garb has made its way               working as a laborer on a railroad
age extreme, small children are
                                               into the general dress of young                in the late 1940s. They were
now dressing much like adults,
                                               men. The transition is quite clear             virtually unknown in urban
except for both girls and boys on
                                               since prisoners are not allowed to             America then and were looked at as
formal occasions when they tend to
                                               wear belts; their clothes tend to be           a strange garment. Collegians
dress as everyone did in an earlier
                                               loose and easily become low-slung.             adopted jeans in the 1950s. They
generation.
                                               This was picked up by younger                  spread like wildfire when the baby
The autonomy people feel is broad              boys in the ghetto and has now                 boomers became prominent as
in its effects. Clothes have become            made its way into the general                  activists and protesters.
more functional, more                          market as tremendously oversized
                                                                                              The media, particularly films and
comfortable, and less specific to              clothes hanging very loose, baggy,
                                                                                              TV, have continually shaped
occasions. Clothing less and less              and slung quite low; maybe
                                                                                              clothing fashion. As the world
marks class distinctions, unless you           overwhelming comfort for the sake
                                                                                              globalizes, American dress, to a
have a particularly acute eye for the          of style to the point of
                                                                                              greater extent than French dress,
subtle measures of quality and                 uncomfortable and inconvenient.
                                                                                              has become the style leader of the
hence, of cost in men’s and                    Physical trickledown is also real.
                                                                                              world. In numerous pictures, we
women’s clothing. How many                     During the French Revolution,
                                                                                              saw of Kosovo with adults and
readers could spot a US$300 pair               some 90 percent of clothes that
                                                                                              children fleeing the urban
of shoes on the street or a US$1500            were bought were in the
                                                                                              battleground, with only one or two
business suit?                                 secondhand market. Today, a big
                                                                                              minor adjustments in children’s
                                               market for worn jeans from the
Trickle down in style is a long-time                                                          clothes, one could have placed
                                               United States feeds the Japanese
cultural phenomenon. In the last 50                                                           them anywhere in America. The
                                               market. Apparently, the Japanese
years, upward flow has also been                                                              younger adults were in a similar
                                               are too inhibited in public to age
more frequent as the street clothes                                                           position. It was only the older
                                               new jeans for 2 or 3 years to a
of youths, blue jeans, have                                                                   adults who revealed that they came
                                               stylishly ragged state.
gradually and steadily moved                                                                  from a place far removed from the
upscale and become ubiquitous.                 Bill Cunningham frequently had a               origins of the new styles. Today, the
They are the universally worn                  half page in the Sunday New York               media flows primarily from the
garment by man and boy, woman                  Times dramatically showing how                 United States and the West to the
and girl. However, they now                    ordinary people innovate in                    rest of the world. However, the
acquire their own class                        clothing. Each of his articles has a           world’s largest film industry, in
distinctions. One can pay                      theme, e.g., yellow, fur, hats, party          Bollywood, India, is growing as it is
incredible prices, often hundreds of           dress, belts, etc., illustrated by 8 or        in many other countries.
dollars, for designer jeans usually            10 photos taken in public places.              Immigration will give us fresh
conspicuously decorated and rarely                                                            exposures to full-fledged foreign
                                               Occupations seen as glamorous or
worn thin or holey.                                                                           garb that may influence styles, but
                                               daring lend to copycat clothes. The
                                                                                              the overwhelming trend for the
The flow upward also occurs as a               lumberjack, for example, has given
                                                                                              next couple of decades will be a
result of adoption of different                us a number of forms of winter
                                                                                              worldwide adoption of American
occupational garb as discussed                 clothing. The soldier has not only
                                                                                              styles.
below. In the United States, the               given us camouflage recently, but
underclass and the ethnic groups               after both World Wars, they gave               In the 1930s, Clark Gable, in the
are often style leaders initially in           us leather jackets. Eisenhower                 film It Happened One Night,
the extreme, but gradually after               jackets appeared briefly and then              appeared bare-chested, causing a
being toned down, their styles enter           disappeared while the Navy’s pea               measurable decline of sales in
the general society. One sees this             jacket is still with us. WWI brought           men’s undershirts. This probably
from the post-WWII lavish zoot                 us the wristwatch and basically                was a factor leading to the
suits with the incredibly large                killed off the pocket watch. A pilot           abandonment of tops for men’s
shoulders, the enormously puffy                could not reach the watch in his               swimwear. Marlene Dietrich
trousers, and the jackets halfway              pocket. The wristwatch was a                   introduced the world to women in
down the thigh that gradually                  practical innovation and overcame              pants. Earlier, the opera star

From My Perspective: The Future of Clothing from Technological Forecasting & Social Change (vol. 72, no. 1 • Jan. 2005)   Page 2 of 8
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Fedora gave us the onetime                     rise of the middle class by both               1920s flapper era, clothes acquired
familiar, snap-brimmed hat for                 stimulating and providing the base             an incredible flamboyance, i.e.,
men.                                           for displaying status. The city does           colorful displays and clothes to
                                               something that small towns and                 match women’s new freedom. The
Hip Hop and rock groups have
                                               rural living cannot do. The urban              flapper threw over many of the
influenced America, most
                                               environment offers an endless                  literal as well as social constraints
conspicuously in making grunge
                                               passing parade of models who whet              of the late Victorian period, moving
the order of the day for millions of
                                               the urban passion for being up-to-             towards less physical support like
young people.
                                               the minute. (See the paragraph                 corsets, but committed to
The textile industry, as it evolved,           above on Bill Cunningham.)                     simplicity in the sense of
produced low-cost cloth. The                                                                  unconstraining garb. All of that
                                               Immigration is important since we
availability of industrial sewing                                                             disappeared in the Great
                                               are a nation of immigrants. Each
machines and the resulting mass                                                               Depression and styles became
                                               new wave has brought fresh
manufacturing dropped the cost of                                                             much more formal and more
                                               variations in lifestyles. That pattern
production of clothing. The                                                                   utilitarian. A similar cycle repeated
                                               will continue. It is likely that Asian,
complement to that was the rise of                                                            itself with the shortages of material
                                               Middle Eastern, Central European,
the department store. More                                                                    in WWII and the pent-up demand
                                               and Latin American immigrants
recently, in the mid part of the 20th                                                         for new things released in the
                                               will bring more color, wider choice
century, the chain store came                                                                 postwar era. It will be interesting to
                                               in decoration, perhaps even more
along, which thrives on economies                                                             watch early in the current decade
                                               flamboyant gestures and body
of scale and puts high value on                                                               what the effects will be if the
                                               language, which in turn, will all be
uniformity in production, style, and                                                          economic recession continues. As
                                               reflected in clothing. On the other
manufacture, with low-cost                                                                    unemployment rises, we can
                                               hand, immigration can have a
marginal variations in decoration                                                             anticipate a more sober turn in
                                               profound effect on the immigrants
and color, producing the widely                                                               dress.
                                               moving from old-world customs to
desired diversity.
                                               those of the new world. This shows             To a great extent style changes in
Advertising is a big factor in social          up most strongly with children,                fashion are not for economic
change. Cheap paper in color off               teenagers, and youths who are                  reasons. It is the constant striving
high-speed presses gave us                     committed to rejecting their                   to be up-to-the-minute, to be
magazines and newspapers and                   parent’s old-world ways, manners,              different, but not too different. It is
low-cost catalogs in the early 20th            and customs as they integrate into             sometimes attractive to jump back
century. They introduced the                   the new world.                                 a generation or two to adapt what
population at large to changes in                                                             had been fashionable. The “retro”
                                               Foreign clothes will enter into style.
clothing styles. Low-cost                                                                     becomes new simply for the sake of
                                               Saris, as they are or modified, will
manufacturing and new sales                                                                   newness but is often accompanied
                                               become popular as we see how
outlets, notably the department                                                               by a feigned nostalgia- “things
                                               attractive they are on immigrant
store, made clothes in wide variety                                                           were so much better and more
                                               Indian women. Pajamas, kimonos,
available to everyone.                                                                        exciting in the 70s.”
                                               and saris also have desirable
The rise of the middle class created           features: highly functional,                   Politics have their effects,
an extremely important influence               comfortable, eye-catching, and                 sometimes in simple dramatic
on clothes. The middle class was at            displays varying degrees of                    dress like the Italian Black Shirts.
first primarily an urban                       ostentation.                                   More recent is the mythic bra
phenomenon. For most of its                                                                   burning in the 1960s. There never
                                               The state of the economy is a well-
members at the turn of the 20th                                                               was any bra burning, but it became
                                               established factor in changing
century, status was shown through                                                             a slogan that substantially changed
                                               fashion. In lush times, clothes
dress even more than in owning an                                                             the upper torso garb of women,
                                               become more elegant and daring;
automobile. The ability to dress                                                              leading to two attractive or
                                               on the other hand, in distressed
one’s family in the height of fashion                                                         attracting developments: wet T-
                                               times, clothes become conservative
and display the most recent new                                                               shirt contests and more bare
                                               and utilitarian to subtly
style was a near-universal class                                                              bosoms and female nudity in the
                                               demonstrate that the wearer is
goal.                                                                                         popular arts, entertainment, and
                                               somewhere between comfortable
                                                                                              magazines. Where women go, men
Urbanization complemented the                  and well fixed. As we saw in the

From My Perspective: The Future of Clothing from Technological Forecasting & Social Change (vol. 72, no. 1 • Jan. 2005)   Page 3 of 8
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are not far behind.                            from wrinkle-free and is easily                becomes fully integrated with
                                               damaged, making the choice of                  clothes, not as a pendent or a belt
The desire for freedom from
                                               linen for any garment a bit                    attachment, but woven or pressed
constraints is perpetual and nearly
                                               pretentious.                                   into the fabric of clothes.
universal in the United States. It
may merely be the migration from               The home sewing machine, now                   Medical knowledge has its effects
the small towns to the big city or it          almost passé, gave millions of                 on garments. Women throughout
may be tied to a social movement.              women the opportunity, in all                  the Victorian era carefully guarded
The bohemians in the early part of             households, to imitate what they               their skin against the sun with
the 20th century rebelled against              had seen in catalogs, magazines, or            broad-brimmed hats, recognizing
social constraints in general, while           on their neighbors’ backs. This                that the sun aged the skin at a
the flower children and the                    promoted style consciousness.                  merciless rate. The term “redneck”
protesters in the 1960s and 1970s                                                             for the rural outdoor worker,
                                               Not all technology affecting
were against war, in favor of peace,                                                          especially the farmer,
                                               garments is in their manufacture.
for women’s liberation and for                                                                acknowledges the badly burned,
                                               For example, the bicycle as a
equality of all sorts. They were                                                              crinkled, and sun-scarred neck
                                               popular mode of practical and
joined together in these causes                                                               from long, daily exposure. Suntan
                                               recreational travel led to bloomers
advocating that the common                                                                    lotions and sun blockers were
                                               and other derivative changes in
underlying causes of their unrest                                                             symbiotic with ever shrinking
                                               women’s undergarments. At the
must go. Much of this showed up                                                               beach wear. As new medical
                                               same time, the early open top
symbolically and naturally in the                                                             knowledge confirms the bad effects
                                               automobile called for dusters,
reduced constraints in dress as a                                                             of excessive sun exposure, tanning
                                               which were virtually unknown
hallmark of the urgency to relax                                                              is in temporary decline, but the
                                               outside the Western cattle range.
more serious social constraints.                                                              beauty of a tanned body persists.
                                               Chemical industry changes such as
                                                                                              Women especially are caught up in
Prominent and admired people can               dyes or new materials for making
                                                                                              striking a balance between risk and
have their effects. Jacqueline                 buttons and other decorations at
                                                                                              beauty, with various kinds of
Kennedy was known for her pillbox              low cost have influenced style. New
                                                                                              putative defenses mediating their
hats, which became quite popular,              closures are a recurrent
                                                                                              decisions.
as did her low-heel shoes. More                opportunity for invention and
recent presidential wives have not             creativity in clothes. The zipper              As beachwear comes to cover less
had that striking effect, not even             and, more recently, Velcro added               and less of the body, the skin may
Mrs. Reagan, who truly was a high-             new flexibility, convenience, and              acquire decorations that could
fashion clotheshorse.                          diversity to clothes including shoes.          amount to a body cover, ie.,
                                                                                              clothing. There are now fabrics
Science and technology are                     Sports as recreation or an
                                                                                              transparent to ultraviolet light. In a
wellsprings of change in clothes.              occupation lead to new clothes. The
                                                                                              few years, those fabrics may be
Rayon and nylon have dramatically              broad-scale participation in golf
                                                                                              broadly patterning skin with the
changed the quality, appeal, cost,             and tennis has expanded our
                                                                                              summer sun to create abstract,
and durability of clothes.                     wardrobe. Admiration of sports
                                                                                              concrete, animal, or biological
Technology also introduces                     figures also does. The technological
                                                                                              patterns all over the body, creating
changes, which get overdone and                changes in sports shoes adopted
                                                                                              the equivalent of a new garment.
then fall into a generally accepted            from basketball have led to broad-
                                                                                              Skin as clothing will become more
pattern. One sees this with                    scale adoption of athletic shoes by
                                                                                              popular. The extensive uses of
Permapress, which came to mark a               the general public, particularly
                                                                                              tattoos or simulated tattoos are no
cheap garment. Now garments that               children and young adults.
                                                                                              longer the exclusive domain of the
hold their creases, resist wrinkles,           Unconventional shoes are now
                                                                                              tough crowd, but catching on
and have a good drape are quite                worn by people of all ages. The
                                                                                              throughout society at all ages for
popular.                                       football jersey has become a
                                                                                              men and women.
                                               standard walking billboard in many
One-upping people is by no means
                                               young men’s wardrobes.                         Imitation sharkskin in the form of
dead. It may be characteristic of our
                                                                                              V-shaped scales was worn by
species. We see it now with the rise           Science and technology has already
                                                                                              swimmers at the Sydney Olympics
in the use of linen in women’s wear,           given us the cell phone, and it is
                                                                                              to reduce drag and turbulence and
particularly in jackets. Linen is far          only a matter of time before it
                                                                                              thereby improve their performance.

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As the body is more often less
dressed, the trend is to push the
edge of daring in terms of what can
be revealed in public and what can
be displayed in a theatrical
performance. We see the umbilicus
as the latest hot thing pushing the
edge. It is unlikely, however, that
modes of skin decoration popular
in other cultures will move into the
West. Cicatrices and other forms of
scarification, which can be quite
beautiful, are not likely to be
popular because they are painful to
acquire and irreversible.
Permanence is unacceptable in a
style-conscious society where style
changes at lighting speed.
Regarding status, having a fur coat                                       Figure 1. Factors affecting clothing
often is not enough, but having one
from an exotic animal is more of a
showpiece. Not just having fine
luggage, but having fine luggage               example, the day before this                        Markers of these socially central
obviously tagged, marked, or                   writing, my wife and I encountered                  conditions will be reflected in the
labeled is what counts for many of             two people about whom we                            ways the drivers of change,
us. For the extremely wealthy, their           independently puzzled as to                         discussed below, show up.
displays are carried on in a much              whether they were men or women.
                                                                                                   The military and sports worlds
more muted and closed                          Ornamentation is outside the scope                  come together in interest and in the
environment among the wealthy                  of this essay. Therefore, I skip over               availability of money to pay for
themselves. This is carried to an              such things as haircuts and                         research, development, test, and
extreme in conservative Islamic                hairstyles, pins, bracelets, and                    evaluation of new clothing
countries where the wives of the               related adornments.                                 concepts. The military is the big
very wealthy may be, by any                                                                        moneybags. It seeks clothing to
criteria, splendidly dressed in the            Clothing in most societies is for the
                                                                                                   protect the soldier, to provide
latest of Paris fashions, but go               purpose of announcing wealth,
                                                                                                   better safeguards against dangers-
about in their limited public                  status, occupation, fertility, and
                                                                                                   not just firearms, but explosives,
movement completely covered to                 gender. Those goals of garb will
                                                                                                   poisons, biological attacks, heat
hide, as their culture requires,               dominate for the projectable future,
                                                                                                   and cold, as well as vermin and
themselves and their grandeur.                 shaped and embellished by the
                                                                                                   disease. Clothing also has to
                                               secondary factors discussed above.
Occupation of course is still with us                                                              withstand falling and flying
in the form of work clothes, but               Having identified and illustrated                   objects. All these capabilities have
their expansion into more general              the factors changing clothing up to                 their parallel in the civilian sector
clothes for specific occupations               the present and into the future (Fig.               among emergency workers, police,
continues. Demonstrating                       I), let us turn more explicitly to                  and firefighters with wider
potential fertility is, often                  future garb.                                        applications to the clothes and
unconsciously, a number one                                                                        equipment for sports.
                                               The cultural universals in time and
priority item in women’s clothes               space will continue to dominate                     People in dangerous jobs and
with a strong tendency to expose               fashions in clothing to illustrate                  sports could use smart clothing,
more and more of the richness of               status, wealth, group                               that is, clothing that can sense the
the young nubility. Gender                     memberships, affiliations, age,                     wearer’s condition or situation, and
differences do persist, but they are           fertility, health, well-being,                      in turn, modify its own structure to
fading to a small degree. For                  profession, occupation, and power.                  protect him or her-for example to

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keep the body warm or cool.                    and for people on safari, when the             physical, total body cosmetics will
Clothing will be able to change                ability to wash and to change                  deal with behavior, the way one
color to blend into, or to contrast            clothes as frequently as one would             walks, talks, expresses oneself, and
with, the external environment in              like is impossible. The antibacterial          one’s body language. All people are
the chameleon-like way or it may               effects would eliminate both the               candidates for a total body
respond to specific signals that the           consequences of sweat becoming                 makeover.
wearer imposes on the clothes.                 objectionable and bacteria causing
                                                                                              Clothes designed to fit the new
                                               skin inflammation or infection.
We already have widely used                                                                   body or new persona should boom.
                                               Many of these anticipated changes
Kevlar to protect against heavy                                                               A recent TV program imported
                                               will not necessarily change
impact. New materials and weaves                                                              from England aggressively and
                                               anything radically in the shape, cut,
will have further safeguards along                                                            often cruelly reviews the total
                                               or design of garments.
those lines. Coming out of recent                                                             image of people, particularly
research is the promise of super-              Technology has many dimensions                 women, and tells them what needs
strong natural silk, factory-                  to it. The improvements in material            to be done to get themselves into
manufactured. The super-strong                 may lead to more disposable                    presentable shape. We see total
silk, in principal, several hundred            garments, particularly underwear,              body cosmetics as a diagnostic
times stronger than steel, may                 handkerchiefs, sportswear, and                 service becoming a successful,
provide the military with cheaper              sweatbands. Specialty garments in              small business, perhaps even a
lightweight materials for wrapping,            terms of material or function may              franchised, small business,
packaging, rappelling, and tying up            become cheaper and more                        providing a service tree of any of
prisoners, and drastically reduce              convenient to dispose of rather                the articles, products, or
bulk in safety gear, nets, and                 than to clean. Disposability will              intervention services that might
parachutes. In numerous other                  have applications in both military             bias the analysis. Ages 14, 25, 44,
applications where strength is                 and recreational activities. On the            and 60 may be the peaks at which
limited by weight, super-strong silk           other hand, disposables may also               men or women seek total body
will reduce that limitation.                   move upscale and allow one to have             advice and move on from there to
                                               dresses, shirts, shorts, stockings,            rehabilitation, rejuvenation and
Inner and outer garments as well as
                                               socks, and other garments, which               reform.
weather gear will be enhanced by
                                               after some reasonable number of
new materials. Going beyond the                                                               The total body makeover
                                               uses will simply be discarded.
new strength and camouflage                                                                   counseling will bring attention to
                                               Disposability depends upon the
elements will be the introduction of                                                          adornments and ornaments such as
                                               balance among price, functionality,
electrical conducting polymers,                                                               shoes, hairdo, and jewelry; a
                                               and attractiveness.
which will be able to sense virtually                                                         situation ideal for small businesses,
any kind of changes that one can               Technology is coming together to               and if perfected, for an Internet
imagine: heat, moisture (sweat),               influence not just clothes directly,           consulting service.
anxiety, chemical and biological               but moving into what I call “total
                                                                                              Linked to an aspect of a total
material, and then                             body cosmetics.” There will be no
                                                                                              makeover is the change in
electromechanically change the                 part of the body or persona that will
                                                                                              population, especially aging. One
structure of the garment, or signal            elude the promise of a makeover.
                                                                                              can now accept with full confidence
the skin and alert the wearer or an            We already have hair dye and
                                                                                              the notion that aging Americans
attached signaling device. Much of             enormous ranges of facial
                                                                                              now act, behave, and see
this is already in advanced                    cosmetics and the puffed-up look
                                                                                              themselves as if they were a decade
development by the military. Early             from breast and lip augmentation.
                                                                                              younger than they are
models will probably be available in           Botox injection removes wrinkles,
                                                                                              chronologically. Among the
the next year or two at high prices.           at least for a while. We are moving
                                                                                              geriatrics and the emerging
However, volume production will                in directions that are more radical
                                                                                              geriatrics, clothing for those who
take care of the price of anything             in body alterations. We already
                                                                                              are not caught up in makeover is
that is successful.                            have technologies to remove
                                                                                              becoming larger and more
                                               saddlebags and rubber tires.
New strategies for applying                                                                   comfortable and at the same time
                                               Implants in other parts of the body,
antibacterial material to clothing                                                            becoming more youthful.
                                               e.g., buttocks, will also become
may have great advantages in the
                                               common. Going beyond the                       It is no great news that Americans
field and for outdoor recreation,

From My Perspective: The Future of Clothing from Technological Forecasting & Social Change (vol. 72, no. 1 • Jan. 2005)   Page 6 of 8
A reprint from Joseph Coates Consulting Futurist, Inc.                                            www.josephcoates.com
  Call 202-363-7440 or e-mail us at info@josephcoates.com

are so alarmingly overweight that it           interesting propaganda to indicate             anthropometric study of the sort
is a priority in the public health             that one is with it, that is, one              done decades ago to layout the real
community to guide us all into                 understands the seriousness of the             body conformations of Americans
better eating, more exercise, and              need to accommodate to changes in              at various ages and of various
less smoking. This triad of advice             climate.                                       socioeconomic cultural
will surely catch on, and as it does,                                                         backgrounds. As most women now
                                               New materials and technology will
it will become increasingly                                                                   know, there used to be size 8, 10,
                                               go beyond improvement to
medicalized with much more                                                                    12, and 14 dresses and suits.
                                               introduce striking innovations. For
specific advice, even prescriptions                                                           Today, women may have to try on
                                               example, smart garments when
from physicians, and more intimate                                                            clothing three size ranges over in
                                               equipped with flexible plastic
links between physicians and                                                                  order to find something that
                                               electronics will allow clothes to
workout centers. As people succeed                                                            approaches fitting. The situation is
                                               become electronic billboards
in becoming remade, there will be a                                                           perhaps most dramatic in women’s
                                               announcing everything from your
market for clothes that are                                                                   clothing, but it has also affected
                                               political and sexual preferences to
changeable in size.                                                                           men with the movement toward
                                               insults, jokes, and compliments.
                                                                                              small, medium, and large, and with
Sports and recreation, as already              These e-textiles will more generally
                                                                                              sleeve lengths marked between two
noted, are a source for new                    permit instant changes in the color,
                                                                                              digits, 34-35 or 36-37. What one
demands for clothing, uniforms,                patterns and designs on garments,
                                                                                              finds is that men’s clothes are
and sports gear. As sports becomes             and all other textiles as well.
                                                                                              increasingly designed to fit no
more physically demanding, and in
                                               Fragrances, and more importantly,              known primate. The industry,
many regards, life threatening,
                                               pheromones will be available either            having distorted all sizes, has
specialized clothing will be
                                               impregnated into fabrics or dosed              created an obstacle to their own
required and will become more
                                               into fabrics. They will become a               success in marketing clothes
“civilianized,” for lack of a better
                                               truly new social tool, particularly            through catalogs and on the
term.
                                               for people searching for new                   Internet.
Environmentally, the most                      friends and companionship or
                                                                                              Bespoke clothing, the English term
important factor affecting the                 merely to strike up a social
                                                                                              for “tailor-made,” will become
future of clothing is greenhouse               relationship. The pheromones
                                                                                              more and more routine and
warming. Greenhouse warming                    could be released into fabrics in
                                                                                              popular. The closest thing that we
promises to smear out the seasons,             response to an electrical or
                                                                                              have to it today in mass marketing
with a general move of warmer                  electronic signal or it might be
                                                                                              are skintight jeans for women
zones toward the poles in each                 keyed to respond to change in one’s
                                                                                              where one only needs to supply
hemisphere. Weather will be more               physiology or body emission or a
                                                                                              three numbers, the waist, the hips,
spiky, with longer, hotter dry spells          potential pickup’s pheromones.
                                                                                              and the thigh measurements.
and episodes of heavier rain and
                                               New materials will give us                     Digital photography to collect size
snowfall. The combination of
                                               completely water-washable                      data from the individual will allow
overall warming, spikiness, and
                                               garments without any of the                    merchants to build a complete
smearing out of the seasons, will
                                               annoyances of shrinkage or                     archive of clothes styles, sizes, and
call for layered clothing of
                                               extensive wrinkling. There is no               so on for each customer. Factory
traditional styles, materials, and
                                               fundamental reason why most                    machinery will create a garment
design. Smart clothing that is made
                                               clothing could not be made water-              that will have a 98 percent correct
of intelligent materials will be worn
                                               washable.                                      fit with wrap-up changes made by a
over a wide range of temperatures.
                                                                                              human tailor. The implications of
                                               The fashion industry is enormously
The climate change to, on average,                                                            this are that once one has gotten
                                               clever but not particularly smart. It
warmer weather in the temperate                                                               information into the database, no
                                               has a short-term focus on
zones will bring back lighter                                                                 more visits to the department store
                                               immediate payoff, on novelty, and
weight, shorter, and in many                                                                  or to the clothing store will be
                                               innovation but really does not pay
regards, older styles, such as the                                                            needed.
                                               attention in a smart way to its own
shorts worn by the colonial officers
                                               long-term needs. The pressing                  Until you change shape or change
and shorter, lighter skirts, dresses,
                                               need of the clothing sector is a               in weight, everything will be
and shorts for women. The changes
                                               broad-scale national                           handled electronically through the
in clothing also becomes an

From My Perspective: The Future of Clothing from Technological Forecasting & Social Change (vol. 72, no. 1 • Jan. 2005)   Page 7 of 8
A reprint from Joseph Coates Consulting Futurist, Inc.                                            www.josephcoates.com
  Call 202-363-7440 or e-mail us at info@josephcoates.com

Internet. The market for better                have turned away from natural fur              higher rate than the pocketbook
fitting bespoke garments shows up              that lead to a boom in synthetic and           would tolerate. New technologies
particularly in men’s clothes. Half            artificial furs, the so-called faux            of fabric handling will reduce any
of the men one sees on the street              furs, running to about 200 million             risks of disease or contagion from
have shoulder seams on their                   US dollars in year 2000.                       rental clothes.
garments 3 or 4 inches down the
                                               The social trend toward androgyny              One of the long-term patterns in
arm. This style is responding to the
                                               carries at least two different                 the history of fashion since the
inability of the garment industry to
                                               implications. One is sex-                      middle of the 19th century is the
properly size clothes.
                                               indeterminate clothing. We have                recurrent style of retro: earlier
The Internet, in addition to                   already had a shot at that during              decade’s fashions revived or
becoming more important to                     the unisex movement. That will                 somewhat revived to create what is
marketing clothing, will also be a             undoubtedly continue and become                new. What we are familiar with
site for creativity. In spite of the           quite practical in some forms of               only in photographs and old-time
belief that the garment district               work and recreational clothing and             drawings will continue to be
would like to pass off on us, that             even become stylish for some forms             revived from time to time. The
clothing style begins with the high            of casual and even formal social               middle class, which dominates the
couture shops in New York, Paris,              occasions. An even more extreme                clothing and marketing industry, is
and London and then works down                 form amounting to cross-dressing,              in constant tension between the
through upscale to midscale and on             women adopting men’s garments                  intense desire to be different and
to downscale garments, a                       and men adopting women’s                       the strong desire to be safe, that is,
tremendous amount of creative                  garments, will continue what we                not to make a fool of oneself or be
innovation, as Bill Cunningham’s               have already experienced. The                  bizarre or outlandish. Fashion will
work shows, begins with ordinary               movement appears to be men’s                   continually find its opportunity at
people and first shows up on the               garments becoming women’s                      the midpoint of the new, the
street. The Internet, making                   garments with little flow in the               exciting, the up-to-the-minute, and
information available universally              reverse direction. There seems to              the safe and reliable. Safety in style
and virtually instantly, will lead to          be a nearly universal fear among               is a function of age, social status,
street developments being copied,              straight men of being mistaken for             class, occupation, and other factors
creating demand on manufacturers               being gay and therefore, avoiding              already discussed.
to innovate, or in their jargon, to            any association with female clothes
                                                                                              In fine, over the next generation,
respond to the market.                         because of the faulty belief that
                                                                                              our clothes will be more
                                               being gay implies femininity. In
Advertising will continue as a para-                                                          comfortable, better fitting, more
                                               addition, cross-dressing, men
mount factor in marketing clothes.                                                            durable, and easier to clean or
                                               dressed as women, now has a poor
The increasing size and falling cost                                                          discard. They will also guard our
                                               reputation in our society because of
of database services coupled with                                                             health and safety, respond to the
                                               its association with transsexual
the tools for bespoke garments will                                                           environment, improve our work
                                               prostitutes.
make markets of one person                                                                    and recreation, and communicate
practical.                                     One element of the general                     with people and things
                                               economy that may move into the                 automatically or at the wearer’s
Another effect will be to change the
                                               clothing sector is rental. Already a           discretion.
pattern of who buys clothes for
                                               substantial number of cars,
whom. Today, women buy 90                                                                     Enjoy it all.
                                               hardware, machinery, do-it-
percent of women’s clothes and 24-
                                               yourself equipment, and special-
30 percent of men’s.
                                               events clothing, such as tuxedos
Vegetarianism is slowly and                    and evening gowns, are often if not
steadily growing. If it continues to           usually rented by householders.
catch on for dietary needs, it may             That market could expand into
expand and turn many people away               everyday clothing where one has
from animal skins and animal                   the desire to satisfy personal
parts. We may find that                        idiosyncrasies or where one’s
vegetarianism leads to a turning               occupation makes it desirable to
away from natural leather, as many             rotate the personal wardrobe at a

From My Perspective: The Future of Clothing from Technological Forecasting & Social Change (vol. 72, no. 1 • Jan. 2005)   Page 8 of 8
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