Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 - Global report - Deloitte
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Contents 3 Preface Methodology and contents 5 Key takeaways 7 Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry 11 M&A Deal Monitor 2019 23 Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 33 Glossary and contacts 54
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Preface Preface During 2019, Fashion & Luxury (F&L) continued to grab COVID-19 spread will strongly affect the balance technologies and the digitalization of the business the attention of PE funds and Investors. Some have for 2020, which will likely be one of the most testing and luxury worlds are already affecting its key players raised special vehicles to be on top of trends and to years in recent memory; not since financial crisis and their business models. recognize the best assets in the industry. of 2008/09 has so much uncertainty pervaded In this context, global investors interested in the the market so quickly. The unstable global trading, During 2019 we oversaw a globalization slowdown, Fashion & Luxury industry are reviewing their political and macroeconomic environments, provide the rise of populism in developed nations and expectations and strategies for the next years. a major challenge for Fashion & Luxury players, prominent geo-political instabilities affecting the whose strategies, sales channels, supply chain and In order to analyze and measure market trends and global economic scenario. employees will likely be stressed to varying degrees. expectations on M&A activities, Deloitte has launched In this context, despite market challenges and record The repercussions of this changing global landscape are the fifth edition of the “Global Fashion & Luxury high valuations, the F&L industry remained a major quickly setting the bases for sharp changes in the F&L Private Equity and Investors Survey”. priority for PE funds and Investors. industry, where the increasing presence of disruptive 3
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Methodology and contents Methodology and contents The study considers more than ten sectors of the F&L industry, of which three are Personal Luxury Goods. F&L INDUSTRY BUSINESS M&A DEAL PRIVATE EQUITY AND SECTORS COVERED MARKET SEGMENTATION PERFORMANCE MONITOR 2019 INVESTORS SURVEY 2020 Personal Luxury Goods CONTENTS • Sales and margins performance • Size of M&A deals by F&L sector • F&L market outlook and by sector • Target company profiles Covid-19 impact Price point analysis Consumers’ perception • Analysis of F&L sectors’ • Investor profiles • Exit and investment strategies attractiveness for investors in 2020 Absolute • Analysis of global deals • Covid impact assessment by sector, • Investors’ current portfolio of focusing on Personal Luxury goods F&L assets Apparel & Cosmetics & Watches & SCOPE GEO Global Global Global Accessories Fragrances Jewellery Absolute Aspirational • Company annual • News and reports • Online survey based Primary Primary Primary financial reports and data level from major media on Computer Luxury data level data level DATA SOURCE presentations providers Assisted Web Aspirational • Interviews with • Investor press Interviewing (CAWI) C-level industry releases • Interviews with Accessible Furniture Private Yachts Luxury Electric experts • Company press Private Equity Jets Cars Cars • Deloitte expertise releases funds’ top management REMARKS • The investors’ survey targeted senior members within private equity funds, with a substantial knowledge Fashion of the F&L industry Digital Luxury Luxury Luxury Luxury Hotels Cruises Restaurants Goods Fashion Full secondary data Full primary data The study considers more than ten sectors of the F&L industry, of which three are Personal Luxury Goods 5
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Key takeaways Key takeaways Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Business Performance of the F&L industry in 2019 Fashion & Luxury outlook from market (PLG) the impact of Covid will be initially less severe perspective with market projected to achieve 1.1 times the 2019 Within its analysis on F&L industry business level by 2025 (~ +1.9% CAGR 2019-25F). The Other performance, Deloitte aims at assessing sales and The Covid-19 pandemic is expected to have a significant Luxury sectors are instead expected to suffer more the profitability growth by each segment to highlight the impact on F&L industry with different immediate Covid-19 impact (especially luxury Hotel and Cruises), most attractive sectors for investors. The analysis has effects between Personal Luxury Goods (PLG) and with an average drop of -25% in 2020/21, followed by a been conducted on a panel of 81 players with a total Other Luxury sectors. For the Personal Luxury Goods robust recover that will bring the market to 1.2 by 2025 sales of 633B$, 44 of them operating in the Other (~ +2.4% CAGR 2019-25F). Luxury sector and generating ~66% of sales, while the other 37 players belonging to the Personal Luxury In terms of sectors, the market expects Luxury Hotels, Goods sector and generating ~34% of sales. Cruises, Watches & Jewellery and Furniture to be the most affected sectors by the pandemic, while Overall, the panel of companies in the Personal Luxury Cosmetics & Fragrances and Private Jets will be the Goods sector reached in 2019, 1.3 times the 2015 sales least affected. In terms of post Covid recovery speed, level, growing at a +5.7% CAGR 2015-19, with a slight Luxury Hotels, Apparel & Accessories and Cosmetics & increase in profitability (+0.1%). On the other hand, Fragrances will be at the forefront, benefiting from the companies in the Other Luxury sector, reached in 2019, re-open of borders and the increased focus on online 1.2 times the 2015 sales level, growing at a +4.1% CAGR sales. 2015-19, with a slight decrease in margin of -0.2%. Within the PLG sector, the market expects Europe and Average EBITDA margin in Luxury sectors was +15.2% the Americas to suffer a longer demand contraction in 2019 (-0.1% vs 2015), with the Personal Luxury Goods with an expected drop in sales from 30 to 40% and sector outperforming the industry (+19.1% avg. EBITDA expected recovery time from 12 to 18 months. The margin). Apparel and Cruises are the top performing mostly adopted strategies to overcome the crisis will be sectors in terms of profitability (+24.6% and +23.3% online distribution channels focus, digital marketing and EBITDA margin), confirming with Cosmetics, the highest promotion and environmental sustainability. sales growth in the F&L industry in 2015-19 period. 7
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Key takeaways M&A Deal Monitor 2019 2019 Global M&A deal overview Other relevant acquisitions in 2019 involved Cosmetics & Fragrances, Restaurants and Apparel & The Fashion & Luxury industry proved to be fertile Accessories companies: soil for M&A activities with #271 deals registered in 2019, presenting a slight but stable increase of #6 • Coty, Inc. by JAB Holdings B.V. (~1.7B$ for 20%). deals compared to the previous year. Personal Luxury • Cooper's Hawk Winery & Restaurants (~700M$ for Goods deals have decreased (-53 deals versus 2018) 100%). with Cosmetics & Fragrances (12,5% of total) decreasing by #10 deals, and both Watches & Jewellery (4%) and • Roberto Cavalli SpA by Damac Properties Co. LLC Apparel & Accessories (17%) decreasing by #17 and #26 (~160M$ for 100%). deals respectively. The Hotels sector, which represents 43% of total, was the best segment in terms of deals M&A features and strategies growth with respect to the previous year, increasing by #40. M&A deal volumes in other sectors increased, Of the M&A deals completed, 55% were carried out by with activity in Restaurants (+7) and Jets (+2) growing Top deals in 2019 Strategic investors (1%pts less than in 2018). Financial compared to the previous year. The average deal value investors, involved in 45% of the total, increased only Acquisitions in Watches & Jewellery, Hotels and has decreased at $164m in 2019, with a $69m decrease slightly the number of deals (+5 YoY). Automotive sectors drove numbers in 2019: from 2018. Strategic sellers were involved in 67% of the • Tiffany & Co. by LVMH (~16B$ for 100%). M&A deals in Europe slightly decreased (-4 deals), whilst transactions (vs.56% in 2018). Generally, bidders’ North America increased (+5 deals) and Asia-Pacific • Strategic Hotels & Resorts by Mirae Asset Global investments focused equally on a buyout and remained almost flat. Investments Co (~5.8B$ for 100%). consolidation strategy (32% and 34% of the times respectively). Luxury Cars deals significantly increased during 2019 • Rivian Automotive, LLC by 4 round fundings (~2.9B$ (+6 deals), driven by the very active electric car’s for 100%). industry. 8
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Key takeaways Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 COVID-19 Impact from investors’ perspective 2020 investment strategy Within its Private Equity Survey, Deloitte focuses on 70% of funds are considering investing in an F&L understanding investors’ perceptions of the potential asset in 2019, with notable interest rising in: Apparel & growth in the F&L market in coming years. Due to the Accessories (+28 pts), Cosmetics & Fragrances (+15 pts), spread of Covid-19, investors expect to make changes Digital Luxury (+53 pts) and Furniture (-17 pts). in the way they invest. In terms of sectors, in the next Interest across these categories is increasing compared three years investors expect Cars, Hotels, Restaurants, to previous year, mostly noticeable at Digital Luxury Cruises and Retailing to be the most affected sectors Goods. by the pandemic. Apparel, Watches, Yacht and Private jets are foreseen to remain stable while Cosmetics & Both current investors and newcomers are more Fragrances and Furniture will show a slight increase. attracted to consolidated sectors within the F&L Digital Luxury will be the sector most benefitting from industry (such as Apparel & Accessories and Cosmetics the pandemic and that is expected to sharply grow in & Fragrances) where market knowledge is widespread. the next three years Newcomers seem more interested in Digital Luxury Goods. With respect to 2019, the continuous In terms of geographical areas, Asia and Middle East consolidation of the F&L industry is moving investments are expected to have a strong growth in the F&L towards medium-sized companies (+17 percentage industry, thanks also to a faster recovery from Covid-19 points), where investors plan to boost performance pandemic. North America and Japan are expected to by implementing internationalization, new production remain stable in the next three years, while Europe development (+14 percentage points) and digital and Latin America are foreseen to suffer more from strategy design (which grew by 11 percentage points). Covid-19 impact and therefore to have a decrease phase. The consensus is that forecast returns will range from 21 to 30%. 9
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Apparel & Accessories Watches & Jewellery Cosmetics & Fragrances Perso 111 57 55 Apparel & Accessories Cosmetics & Fragrances G Market Insights: Deloitte Fashion & Luxury panel in 2019 Watches &24% Jewellery 12% Personal 17%Luxury Watches &20 11 6 111 57 55 Players Players 39% Players Goods 37 Apparel & Accessories Jewellery Cosmetics 12%& Fragrances Personal 17% Luxury 40% 24% 20 11 6 111 57 76% 55 Players Players 39% Players Goods 37 12% 17% 49% 40% 42% 24% Tot. on Tot. sales.Tot. Players The Fashion & Luxury industry business performance Players analysis was conducted 111 76% B$ PlayersSales a 20 39% panel of 81 companies, 56.5B$ totalizing 49% Players almost Sales 40% Players 633B$ of B$ 55.4 Sales 11 6 34% 37 Players 42% Players Players Tot. Tot. Tot. of 111 76% B$ 56.5 B$ by area 55.4B$ by area 34% by area Top Players Map FY2019 Sales Players 49% Sales Players 42% Sales Players turnover Tot. Tot. Tot. of Apparel & Accessories 111 B$ Watches & Jewellery 56.5by Luxury B$ area Cosmetics & Fragrances Cars 55.4Luxury by B$ area Personal Luxury Hotels 34% turnover by area Private Jets Top Players Map FY2019 Sales Sales 357 Sales 32 8 111 Players 57 Players 55 Players Ot by area Luxury Cars Goods Private Jets 4% by area 12% 357 by area Luxury 6% Hotels 17% 32 Top Players Map FY2019 S 10 4 2 24% 8 37% 20 11 6 PlayersOther F&L Players 14% Players Players Players 39% Players 37 2 Luxury Cars 40% 4% 6% Luxury Hotels 32 94% Private Jets Sectors 10 4 357 8 Players 82% 37% 76% Players Players 14% Players Other F&L 63% 6% 49% Tot. 4% 42% Tot. Tot. Tot. Tot. Tot. of Sectors 56.5B$ SalesTot. Players357B$ 31.7B$PlayersSales 8.2B$ 94% 10 4 2 34% 82% 37% 111B$ Sales Players 55.4 B$ 14%Sales Sales Players 63% Sales 44 Players Players Tot. Players Tot. turnover Players Players by area 357B$ Sales by area 94% 31.7 82% B$ by area Sales by area 8.2 B$ 63% by area Sales by area Top Players Map FY2019 44 Tot. Players Tot. PlayersTot. Players 66% Players Luxury Cars 357 B$ Luxury Hotels Sales 31.7 32 by area B$ Luxury Cruises Private Jets Sales Players 5 8.2Furniture by area B$ Sales Players 4 by area Yachts 5 44 5 357 Players 8 Other F&L of 66% by area by area 29% by area Players 6% Luxury Cruises 4% 5 Furniture Yachts Sectors38% 4 8 16 37% 4 turnover 10 Players Luxury 94%Cruises 4 Players 14% 29% Furniture 2 Players Players Yachts 38% Players 66 % of Players 4 8 16 5 82% 4 100% 5 turnover Players Players 63% 62% Players Tot. 29%Tot. Tot. Tot. 3.9B$PlayersTot. 38% Tot. 357B$ 4 31.7B$ 4.7B$ 8.2B$ Sales 8 16 4.9B$ 100% Sales Players Sales Players 62% Sales Players Sales Players Sales Players 44 Players Players Players Tot. Tot. by area by area 4.7B$ Sales 100% by area Players 3.962% B$ by area Sales Players 4.9B$ Tot. Players by area Sales Players by area Tot. by area Tot. by areaTot. of 81 66% 4.75 B$ 3.9 B$ 4.9 B$ by area ~ 633B$ Luxury Cruises Furniture 4 Deloitte Yachts Sales F&L Sales Players by area Panel: 5 Players Sales by area Players Playersturnover by area Turnover ~ 633B$ 29% 4 Players Deloitte 8 PlayersF&L Panel: 38% 16 81 PlayersPlayers Turnover 62%81 ~ 633B$ Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Rest of the World North America Deloitte F&L Panel: 100% Source: ElaborationPlayers on Company Financial Report data Turnover Tot. Tot. at constant exchange rate Notes: Values reported Tot. Rest of the World North America Europe 4.7B$ Players 3.9B$ Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data 4.9B$ Sales Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Sales Players Sales Players Source: by area on Company Financial Report data Elaboration by area byRest areaof the World North America Europe ~ 633B$ Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Deloitte F&L Panel: 81 Players Turnover Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Rest of the World North America Europe 11 Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Market Insights: Sales performance 2015-19 The F&L top players sales index in 2019 is 1.3x the 2015 value. Personal Luxury Goods show a positive growth (+5.7% CAGR 2015-19) with a stable EBITDA %. Other luxury sectors are growing less (+4.1% CAGR 2015-19), with a slight decrease in profitability. 2015-19 F&L Sales 2015-19 F&L SalesIndex Indexevolution evolution (Index of Sales Sales2015=100, 2015=100, Percentage) CAGR (Index of Percentage) 2015-19 Personal +5. 7% 125 Luxury Goods Other Luxury +4. 1% Sectors 117 1.3x 1.2x 100 % change 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2015-19 EBITDA % 19.0% 18.5% 17.3% 18.4% 19.1% +0.1 PLG EBITDA % 13.4% 12.6% 12.6% 13.1% 13.2% -0.2 Other Lux Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data and Desk analysis Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data and Desk analysis 12
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Market Insights: itability performance 2015-19 Average EBITDA margin in Luxury Sectors is 15.2% in 2019 (-0.1% vs 2015), with Personal Luxury Goods (+19.1%) outperforming the overall industry. Apparel and Cruises are the top growing sectors in terms of sales growth and those with the highest profitability. 2019 Average EBITDA Margin by Sector (Percentage) 2019 Average EBITDA Margin by Sector (Percentage) Personal Luxury Goods Other Luxury Sectors Average Personal Luxury Goods 24,6% Avg. +19.1% 23,3% F&L 2015 +15.3% 16,6% 16,2% Avg. 15,1% F&L 2019 12,2% 11,9% 11,3% +15.2% 5,3% Apparel & Watches & Cosmetics & Cruises Hotels Private Jets Furniture Cars Yachts Panel Accessories Jewellery Fragrances Average % change 2015-19 +2.4 -1.0 -1.1 -4.7 +0.6 +1.7 +2.1 -4.5 +3.3 -0.1 % change 2018-19 +1.9 -0.6 +0.7 +0.1 -1.4 +0.1 +3.8 -1.8 +0.1 +0.3 Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data 13
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Market Insights: Business performance analysis 2015-19 Cruises and Cosmetics are the most attractive sector for F&L investors, with the highest sales growth and margin. Apparel & Accessories is still the top performing category in terms of marginality. F&L Sectors business performance map F&L Sectorsbusiness performance map (Percentage) (Percentage) 28 High profitability Best in class Other F&L sectors Apparel & Accessories Cruises Personal Luxury 20 Goods Watches & Jewellery Total Sector 18 (Percentage – 2019) EBITDA Margin Hotels Sales 2019 16 AVG 14 Cosmetics & Fragrances Private Jets 12 Furniture 10 Cars 8 6 Yachts 4 2 Underperformers Fast growing – low performing AVG 0 0 2% 4% 6% 8% 10% 12% 14 Sales growth (Percentage – CAGR 2015-19) Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Notes: Values reported at constant exchange rate Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data 14
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Covid impact on Luxury sectors – Market perspective SECTOR PRE-COVID COVID IMPACT POST COVID RECOVERY TREND Global sales expected to drop significantly in 2020 Apparel and accessories is the category that most Apparel & Focus of next slides (-20%) because of store closing and economic benefit from online sales, driving the growth in the Accessories slowdown during Covid pandemic after Covid recovery period High Covid impact (-20/25% on sales) during the Slow recovery is expected, since this category rely Watches & lockdown phase, since this category has not benefitted a lot on tourists flow and on a consolidate in-store Jewellery from online sales purchasing process Covid negative impact on Cosmetics has been slower Fast recovery focusing on online sales-channels and Cosmetics & with respect to other Personal Luxury Goods categories skin care products Fragrances (-11%), with major effects in Europe Customers will be more aware of natural ingredients, with more attention on healthcare Luxury The luxury segment is expected to be less impacted After Covid it is expected a solid recovery, in line with from Covid thanks to a non-Chinese based value chain pre-Covid trend Cars and high-level target customers Luxury Hospitality is the most affected sector by Covid and The luxury segment is expected to boost fast as also the luxury hospitality segment is suffering a lot borders re-open and people will be allowed to Hotels from travel limitations travel Private Expected increase in demand due to the shutdown The growth is expected to continue. Customers will prefer private means of transportation to avoid law Jets of commercial aviation because of Covid restrictions restrictions and preserve health Luxury High impact from Covid due to travel restrictions The impact of Covid is expected to affect sales for a long time, particularly in the Asian market Cruises and health security issues related to this business It is expected a longer recovery time with some Furniture The industry is highly suffering the impact of Covid concerns as expressed by some Luxury interior designers and furniture brands Immediate negative impact due to travel restrictions After Covid, it is expected an increasing interest in Yachts Potential positive impact on demand due to prices private charters over group charters or cruise lowering from suppliers holidays, boosting the recover Historical market trend: Negative Stable Positive Post-Covid recovery: Strong Fast Gradual Very slow Covid impact: High Low Source: Elaboration on Desk analysis and interviews with industry experts 15 Source: Elaboration on Desk analysis and interviews with industry experts
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Covid-19 impact on Personal Luxury Goods (1/4) – Market perspective “How “How do you think do you thinkCovid Covidwill willaffect affect demand demand and and offer offer in your in your sector sector by 2020?” by 2020?” Key insights from C-Level of (Percentage range) (Percentage range) PLG companies KEY INSIGHTS FROM C-LEVEL OF PLG COMPANIES “… Europe and Americas will suffer longer the impact of Covid leading to a North America Europe demand contraction “… Europe because and Americas will of the longer the impact suffer 20-25% 25-30% pandemic of Covidlockdown downturn leading toand …” the economic a demand contraction because of APAC the pandemic lockdown and the economic downturn …” 15-20% “… “… As As part of of thetheSpring part SpringSummer Summer collection is still collection is still unsold in store, wethe unsold in store, we are reducing areproduction for China & Japan reducing the production for the Fall the Fall Winter anticipating the expected decrease in Latin America 5-10% Winter anticipating the expected demand, until the business will recover …” decrease in demand, until the business 20-25% will recover …” “… Our company, which is more focused on accessories and leather goods, is not reducing the production “… Our company, which is more focused RoW since we can count on a rising demand from the on accessories and leather goods, is 15-20% notonline sales reducing channel the …” production since we can count on a rising demand from the online sales “… Since channel luxury …” companies could no longer count on the high flow of tourists’ consumption, we are dedicating “… Since luxury companies could no more attention on local customers …” longer count on the high flow of tourists’ consumption, we are dedicating more attention on local customers …” Strong decrease Decrease Lower decrease Source: Elaboration Source: on Desk Elaboration analysis on Desk analysisand andinterviews withindustry interviews with industry experts experts 16
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Covid-19 impact on Personal Luxury Goods (2/4) – Market perspective “How do you think Covid will impact your business in 2020 in terms of sales’ “How do you think Covid will impact your business in 2020 in terms of sales’ contraction?” Key insights from C-Level of contraction?” (Percentage on respondents) KEY INSIGHTS FROM PLG companies C-LEVEL OF PLG (Percentage on respondents) Expected drop in sales COMPANIES “… We expect sales to be more affected from 0% to 20% in the European and American Europe From 20% to 30% market, “… We the while expect APACsales more affected in the to bewill market 5% suffer less due to a faster recoverymarket, European and American time while the APAC From 30% to 40% 15% …” market will suffer less due to a faster recovery time …” > 40% 30% “… It is expected a boost in the online “… It is expected sales channel, a boostthe that will sustain in the online sales channel, 50% that will especially market demand sustain theduring market demand especially during the lockdownthepandemic lockdown phase …” phase …” pandemic “… Companies that don’t have a “… Companies that don’t have a fragmented footprint fragmented footprint and build solid relationships withsolid and build relationships suppliers will be with suppliers will be capable to better sustain their business during the capable to better sustain their business APAC during the Covid Covid period period …”…” Americas 5% 5% “… Store closing in Covid phase 1 and 20% 10% “… Store closing 20% sanitary precautions thatinwill Covid phase 1 and sanitary be taken in phase precautions 2, will have athat will be strong taken in phase 2, will have impact 30% on physical retail impact a strong and wholesale on physical retail and wholesale 45% 55% channelschannels (-20% to (-20% -30% on sales).on sales). However it is to -30% 55% However expected it is expected a boost on a boost on digital retail (+16%) and digital digital retail (+16%) and digital wholesale (+12%) channels…” wholesale (+12%) channels…” Source: Elaboration on Desk analysis and interviews with industry experts Source: Elaboration on Desk analysis and interviews with industry experts 17
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Covid-19 impact on Personal Luxury Goods (3/4) – Market perspective “When it is expected the normalization period and how Covid will affect the “When it is expected Geographical the normalization period and how Covid will affect the footprint?” Key insights from C-Level of Geographical footprint?” (Percentage on respondents) KEY INSIGHTS FROM PLG companies C-LEVEL OF PLG (Percentage on respondents) Expected recovery time COMPANIES “… Normalization period in Europe is from 3 to 6 months Europe expected“… gradually in 6 to 12 Normalization months. period in Europe is expected from 6 to 12 months In America we forecast a longer 5% gradually in 6 to 12 months. In America we forecast a from 12 to 18 months recovery period (over the year) while 5% longer recovery period (over the year) while the Asian the Asian market will recover faster. > 18 months However market will recover a pre-Covid situationfaster. will be 40% 50% possible only with athe However vaccine situation pre-Covid …” will be possible only with the vaccine …” “… In Europe, companies more focused on Northern countries that have been “… In Europe, less impacted from Covid,companies will have more focused on Northern countries higher benefits …”that have been less impacted from Covid, will have higher benefits …” “… Luxury shopping is likely to restart first in China if the virus remains under Americas APAC “… Luxury control there. shopping Continued is likely to restrictions onrestart first in China 5% if the virus remains travel will also mean that many under control there. Continued 0% 10% 15% 20% purchases that would restrictions have been on travel will also mean that many made abroad will happen purchases that wouldin China, have been made abroad will 45% since Chinese shopping counts a happen in China, since Chinese shopping counts a significant slice of luxury consumption 45% significant slice of luxury consumption …” …” 60% Source: Source: Elaboration on Desk Elaboration on analysis and and Desk analysis interviews withwith interviews industry experts industry experts 18
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Covid-19 impact on Personal Luxury Goods (4/4) – Market perspective “Which will be the major drivers and“Which will bethat strategies the major drivers you will adopt Classy luxury Key insights from C-Level of to and strategies overcome thethat youcrisis?" Covid will adopt style KEY INSIGHTS FROM PLG companies C-LEVEL OF PLG to overcome the Covid crisis? COMPANIES High “… There won’t be a disruption in product categories but we expect a revamping “… of brand There identity won’t and the in product categories be a disruption valorization of classy luxury, with but we expect a revamping of brand identity and the customers seeking for elegant shapes Digital valorization of classy luxury, with customers seeking and neutral tones, reflecting a sober life Collections Marketing & for elegant consciousness …” shapes and neutral tones, reflecting a sober breadth and promotion life consciousness …” depth “… We are pushing more on the online sales channel, signing partnerships with e-commerce“… We are pushing platforms …” more on the online sales channel, Low signing partnerships with e-commerce platforms …” “… We are pushing a lot on digitalization to ensure the business “… We are pushing a lot on digitalization to ensure continuity, launching the first virtual showroom thetobusiness continuity, collect sales launching the first virtual orders …” showroom to collect sales orders …” “… It is necessary to anticipate shifts in Environmental consumer sentiment and behavior being sustainability more aware “… Itofissustainability necessary to anticipate and of shifts in consumer responsiblesentiment and behavior consumption. Under being this more aware of Products value for new framework, we are rationalizing sustainability and of responsible consumption. money awareness collectionsUnder and balancing prices …” we are rationalizing this new framework, collections and balancing prices …” Pre Covid Online distribution After Covid channels focus Source: Elaboration on Desk analysis and interviews with industry expert s Source: Elaboration on Desk analysis and interviews with industry experts 19
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Market Insights and Perspective of F&L Industry Market Outlook: Sales forecast – Market perspective After the drop in 2020 due to Covid impact, PLG is expected to achieve by 2025, 1.1 times the 2019 sales level (+1.9% 2019-25F CAGR). Other luxury segment will initially suffer more from Covid impact, and will reach by 2025, 1.2 times the 2019 sales level (+2.4% CAGR 2019-25F) thanks to a robust and faster recover. 2010-25F F&L sales index outlook 2010-25F F&L (Index on sales Sales index outlook 2010=100) (Index on Sales 2010=100) CAGR Other Lux idx growth: 1.2x 2019-25F PLG idx growth: 1.1x Other Lux idx growth: 1.9x 242 Personal Luxury Goods +1.9% PLG idx growth: 2.2x 216 Other Luxury Sectors +2.4 % Drop due to Covid impact, that will affect in particular other luxury sectors (avg. -25% YoY 19- 20) with main consequences on Hotels and Cruises Revenue 100 Forecast 2010 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020FC 2021FC 2025FC Notes: Covid assumptions under a basic scenario Notes:Source: Elaborationunder Covid assumptions on Company Financial Report data, Desk analysis and interviews with industry experts a basic scenario Source: Elaboration on Company Financial Report data, Desk analysis and interviews with industry experts 20
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | M&A Deal Monitor 2019 22
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | M&A Deal Monitor 2019 M&A Deal Monitor 2019 Fashion & Luxury M&A deals Overview of deals in 2018 by sector Top luxury deals of 2019 Stake Value 265 271 +6 Month Target Bidder (%) ($m) DEALS Nov.1 Tiffany & Co. LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE 100 16,192 DEALS IN 2018 DEALS IN 2019 Strategic Hotels and Sector Personal Luxury Goods (PLG) 2018 2019 Growth Sep. Restaurants Inc. Mirae Asset Global Investemnts Co., Ltd. 100 5,800 Apparel & Accessories 73 47 -26 Dec. Rivian Automotive, LLC. 4 funding rounds (1st led by Amazon.com, 2nd by Ford Motors, 3rd by Cox Automotive and 4th T. Rowe Ass) 100 2,850 Hotels 75 115 +40 Feb. Coty Inc. Jab Holdings B.V. 20 1,747 Watches & Jewellery 28 11 -17 Jun. Millenium & Copthorne Hotels Plc. City Developments Limited 35 987 Cosmetics & Fragrances 44 34 -10 Nov. Deutsche Hospitality Cooper's Hawk Winery & Huazhu Group Limited 100 780 Jul. Ares Management LLC. 100 700 14 19 Restaurants Furniture +5 May. Crown Resorts Limited Melco Resorts & Enterntainment Limited 20 608 Private Jets 9 11 +2 Nov. Kylie Cosmetics, LLC. Coty, Inc. 51 600 Yachts 8 4 -4 Sep.1 Byton, Ltd. China FAW Group Corporation Limited 100 500 Jun. Tatcha, LLC. Unilever Plc. 100 500 Cars (including Electric Cars) 6 12 +6 Oct. Sykes Cottages Limited Vitruvian Partners LLP. 100 481 Cruises 4 2 -2 Oct. Andaz Singapore Hoi Hup Realty Pte Ltd. 100 475 Restaurants 4 11 +7 Aug. Dream Cruises Holding Limited TGP Capital LP. 35 454 0 5 Jul. Freehand Hotels Queensgate Investments LLP. 100 400 Digital Luxury Goods +5 1) Still Pending | Note: the analysis considers both closed and announced deals during 2019 | Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data 23
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | M&A Deal Monitor 2019 M&A deals by region and sector 2019 Overview of deals in 2019 by Region KEY FINDINGS Europe North America Asia-Pacific Japan and Europe were -4 109 151 147 +5 59 58 63 +2 36 38 40 the regions which saw the 11 16 5 6 3 25 18 2 6 7 14 higher decrease of Fashion & 14 3 4 5 17 4 1 2 Luxury deals in 2019, with 5 18 16 6 16 12 17 6 2 8 10 and 4 less deals respectively. 21 15 12 10 50 54 8 5 31 North America presented a 10 2 slight increase (+5 deals) and 9 8 47 15 46 12 Asia-Pacific remained almost 37 14 14 7 8 1 flat with respect to 2018. 2017 2018 2019 2017 2018 2019 2017 2018 2019 Luxury Hotel and Apparel deals were present in all major regions, and were Middle East Japan Rest of the world notable drivers of M&A activity globally in 2019. +7 3 2 9 -5 4 8 3 +1 6 8 9 Middle-East presented a 1 2 1 1 1 3 good increase (+7) in F&L 1 1 1 2 deals since 2018, thanks to 3 1 1 the Hotels segment. 8 4 4 2 5 1 4 1 1 2 1 2017 2018 2019 2017 2018 2019 2017 2018 2019 Apparel & Accessories Cosmetics & Fragrances Hotels Private Jets Watches & Jewellery Yachts Others Variance 2018-19 # (Number of deals) Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data 24
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | M&A Deal Monitor 2019 Size of main M&A deals The F&L soil has continued to be a fertile one, with 271 M&A deals in 2019, showing a 2,3% increase from 2018. KEY FINDINGS Personal Luxury Goods (-11% pts YoY) represent 34% of all deals. Cars and Restaurants registered #6 and #7 deals more respectively compared Number of deals in 2019 – Breakdown by sector (Number of deals, Percentage) to 2018. Number of deals in 2019 – Breakdown by sector Apparel and Watches & (Number of deals, Percentage) Jewellery deals decreased by 267 #26 and #17 respectively. PLG YoY 2018-19 5 The Hotel sector has become 11 2 -53 11 4 12 34 more attractive to investors 19 % during 2019, becoming the 115 top gainer in terms of deal number (+40). 66 55% 34 % 11 47 Apparel & Watches & Cosmetics & Hotels Furniture Private Yachts Cars Cruises Restaurants Digital Total Accessories Jewellery Fragrances Jets Luxury F&L Sector % 17.3% 4.1% 12.5% 42.4% 7% 4.1% 1.5% 4.4% 0.7% 4.1% 1.8% 100.0% Var. -26 -17 -10 +40 +5 +2 -4 +6 -2 +7 +5 +6 # 2018-19 Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data 25
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | M&A Deal Monitor 2019 Average value of main deals by sector Deals related to the Cruises industry were the largest in 2019 as in 2018 with an average value of $436m. Cars and KEY FINDINGS Cosmetics were the next largest with average value of $370m and $277m respectively. The average deal value of PLG’s in 2019 was $140m*. Apparel saw their average deal value fall in 2019, while Averagevalue value per Cosmetics (+340%YoY) and Average perdeal dealinin 2019 – Breakdown 2019 by sector – Breakdown by sector Average ($m, value Percentage) per deal in 2019 – Breakdown by sector Restaurants (+509%) saw their ($m, Percentage) Number ($m, of Percentage) deals in 2019 – Breakdown by sector average value increase. (Number of deals, Percentage) F&L Average Cruises (-43%YoY), Automotive 436 F&L Average 267 Personal Luxury Goods (-61%% YoY), Hotels (-30%YoY), 436 Personal Luxury Goods Furniture (-93%), Private PLG YoY 2018-19 370 Other 5 Luxury sectors 11 Jets (-79%) and Yachts 370 2 -53 11 4 12 Other Luxury sectors 34 (-95%) recorded remarkable 277 19 % 115 decreases. 277 198 186 198 186 164 164 146 146 66 55% 34 78 64 % Avg. PLG 78 64 26 14 11 12 $140m Avg. PLG 47 26 14 12 $140m Digital Watches Private Cruises Cars Cosmetics Hotels F&L Avg. Restaurants Apparel Yachts Furniture Luxury Digital &Watches Jewellery Private Jets Apparel &Cruises Watches &Cars Cosmetics Cosmetics & Hotels Hotels Private Furniture Restaurants F&L Avg.Yachts Cars Apparel Cruises Restaurants Yachts Digital Total Furniture Luxury & Jewellery Jets F&L Accessories Jewellery Fragrances Jets Luxury Sector % 17.3% YoY 2018-19 4.1% 12.5% 340% N/A 42.4% 7% 4.1% 509% 4.4% 1.5% 0.7% 4.1% 1.8% 100.0% YoY (%) 2018-19 -43% -61% 340% N/A -30% 509% -59% -34% -79% -95% -93% Var. 0 -30% (%) -26 -43%-17 -61% -10 +40 0 +5 -30% +2 -30% -4 +6 -59% -2 -34% +7 -79% +5 -95% +6-93% # 2018-19 Note: The average deal value has been calculated based upon data of disclosed transactions Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data Note: The average deal value has been calculated based upon data of disclosed transactions * Tiffany & Co. Deal has not been taken into account for the calculations but it was the largest one (around $16bn). Source: Source: Elaboration Elaboration onon Deloitte Deloitte intelligence intelligence data data * Tiffany & Co. Deal has not been taken into account for the calculations but it was the largest one (around $16bn). Note: The average deal value has been calculated based upon data of disclosed transactions Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data * Tiffany & Co. Deal has not been taken into account for the calculations but it was the largest one (around $16bn). 26
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | M&A Deal Monitor 2019 Target company features Compared to the previous year, buyers slightly decreased the number of deals related to smaller sized firms, KEY FINDINGS delivering higher average multiple, with a significant increase of the >15x EV/EBITDA multiple (59% of deals in 2019, vs. 23% in 2018). In 2019, investors were still oriented towards lower- sized firms ($0-$51m) which accounted for 62% of deals in Target Targetcompany features- Sales company features - Sales Class Class andand Multiples Multiples the year, but less than in 2018 (Percentage, Enterprise (Percentage, Enterprisevalue EV/EBITDAmultiples) value - EV/EBITDA multiples) (65%). There was a slight increase in Target companies sales class CAGR Deal EV/EBITDA Multiple CAGR deals involving players in the 17-19 17-19 Medium Size market, between Big size $51m and $250m, by 7% pts 16% 17% 13% -9.9% (>$250m) 23% >15x +18.6% (-7.76% CAGR 2017-19). Medium size 42% Deals involving multiples 18% 25% -7.7% 29% ($51m-$250m) 59% superior higher than 15 times the EBITDA increased 35% (representing 59% of the total), while there was a decrease in 31% deals positioned on EBITDA 65% 62% Low size 14% 11x-15x -3.6% 55% ($0m-$51m) +6.4% multiples of both 5-10x 42% between 5x and 15x. 17% 5x-10x +26.6% 27% 10%
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | M&A Deal Monitor 2019 Investor profiles Financial investors were 45% of total bidders with Private Equity/Venture Capital representing 49% of them, while KEY FINDINGS the majority of Strategic investors (70%) were involved in Other Industries or Hotels related deal in 2019. Deals conducted by Strategic investors, mainly operating Main bidders’ profile in the Apparel & Accessories, Main bidders’ (Percentage, profile Number of deals) Hotels and Other sectors, (Percentage, Number of deals) represent 81% of total deals. The growth in the number Financial Investors +5 +1 Strategic Investors Watches & -10 of deals with respect to the previous year was mostly 4% Jewellery +4 -13 Other 15% 5% Cars driven by Financial investors investors Cosmetics & 9% (+5 deals). Fragrances -16 11% Apparel & Financial Accessories -18 +10 36% Services 30% Hotels +3 45% 55% Private Equity/ 49% +8 Other Venture 40% +34 Capital industries Breakdown by investor Breakdown by investor type core industry Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data Change in number of deals YoY 2018-19 Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data 28
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | M&A Deal Monitor 2019 Portfolio exit strategies In 2019 there has been a slight decrease in financial sellers (33% vs 43% of 2018), with the most significant part of KEY FINDINGS the acquisitions carried out through buyouts and consolidations (32% and 34% of total respectively). There was a slight increase in M&A transactions carried out by “strategic” sellers in Exit types vs Investment strategies Exit types vs Investment strategies (Percentage, Number of deals) 2019 (67% vs. 57% in 2018). (Percentage, Number of deals) Furthermore, the exit patterns YoY of Financial investors slightly 2018-19 decreased from 43% in 2018 Exit types patterns Investment strategy by bidder type (deals) to 33% in 2019. 2% 3% 3% Other +5 There was a good growth 3% 1% 1% Turnover +2 Sponsor to 16% 3% 3% Turnaround +1 in investments through Financial 7% sponsor 25% Seller Consolidation (+22 deals) 34% 17% 33% 17% 34% Consolidation +22 and Acquisition Capital (+7), Sponsor to reflecting the higher number strategic 11% of deals carried out by 9% 55% Strategic investors. 26% Acquisition +7 28% 9% capital Strategic to sponsor 38% Growth -19 Strategic 18% 34% capital Seller 3% 67% 11% 39% 45% Strategic to strategic 25% 32% Buyouts -12 22% 23% 2017 2018 2019 Financial Strategic Total investor investor Notes: The deal strategy analysis has been performed based upon data of disclosed transactions Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data Notes: The deal strategy analysis has been performed based upon data of disclosed transactions Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data 29
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | M&A Deal Monitor 2019 Bidders’ investment stake Majority stake in the Personal Luxury Goods deals remained the same in 2019 reaching 85%, while both the Other luxury sectors (86%) and the Total F&L (90%) increased in 2019. The growth was driven by a larger percentage of Strategic investors. Investment stakes by sector Investment (Percentage) stakes by sector (Percentage) 47 11 34 19 115 11 4 2 12 11 5 271 9% 5% 9% 10% Minority 18% 18% 25% 25% 50% 91% 95% 91% 100% 100% 100% Majority 82% 82% 90% 75% 75% 50% App&Acc Wat&Jew Cos&Fra Furniture Hotels Private Jets Yachts Cruises Cars Restaurants E-commerce Total F&L platform PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS OTHER LUXURY SECTORS TOTAL LUXURY SECTORS 85% Majority 86% Majority 90% Majority +0%pts (change 18-19) +1%pts (change 18-19) +5%pts (change 18-19) Note: Undisclosed investment stakes deals have been excluded from the analysis Source: Elaboration on Note: Undisclosed Deloitte intelligence investment data stakes deals have been excluded from the analysis Source: Elaboration on Deloitte intelligence data 30
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 Fashion & Luxury market outlook from investors perspective Market Outlook: Key Investors foresee a significant Covid impact in the next three years with Cars, Hotels, Restaurants, Cruises and Retailing as the most negatively affected sectors. Apparel, Watches, Yacht and Private jets trends by sector – are expected to remain stable, while Cosmetics & Fragrances and Furniture will show an increase. Digital Investors perspective luxury will be the sector reaching the strongest increase thanks also to a positive effect of the pandemic. Expected F&L market trends for the next 3 years – Breakdown by sector Expected F&L market trends for the next 3 years – Breakdown by sector (Index on responses) (Index on responses) Strong Increase (> 10% per year) Increase (5-10% per year) Stable Decrease (< 0% per year) App&Acc Wat&Jew Cos&Fra Cars Hotels Restaurants Yachts Cruises Private Furniture Retailing Digital Total jets luxury F&L Personal Luxury Goods Other Luxury sectors 2019-20 change Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey and interviews with industry in sentiment experts Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey and interviews with industry experts 33
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 Market Outlook: Key trends by geographical area - Investors perspective Investors expect the Asian and the Middle Eastern areas to have a faster recover after the negative Covid impact, with a growth of the F&L industry. On the other hand, Europe and Latin America are expected to suffer more, showing a decrease in the next years. Expected F&L Expected market F&L trends market in in trends the next the 3 years next – Breakdown 3 years – Breakdownby byregion region (Index on responses) (Index on responses) Strong Increase (> 10% per year) Increase (5-10% per year) Stable Decrease (< 0% per year) Europe North Latin Japan Asia Middle Rest of Total America America East the World F&L 2019-20 change in sentiment = Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey and interviews with industry experts Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey and interviews with industry experts 34
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 Market Outlook: Covid-19 impact on F&L sectors – Investors perspective F&L sectors that will be mostly affected by the spread of Covid-19, will be Hotels (31%), Restaurants (22%), Cruises KEY FINDINGS (18%), Cars (13%) and Apparel & Accessories (9%). As it is predictable, those sectors related to tourism will be the mostF&L Main affected ones. sectors affected by Covid-19 “Out of the home” luxury Main F&L sectors affected by Covid-19 (Percentage of respondents) experiences as Luxury (Percentage of respondents) Hotels, Restaurants and Main F&L sectors affected by Covid-19 Cruises will be the most (Percentage of respondents) affected by the spread of Covid-19, respectively 31% according to 31%, 22% and 31% 18% of respondents. Cars and Apparel & Accessories 22% will also be affected but with 22% 18% a lower impact (13% and 9%). 18% 13% Other luxury sectors as Digital 13% Luxury Goods, Cosmetics & 9% Fragrances, Yachts, Watches 9% 4% & Jewellery, Private jets and 1% 1% 1% 4% Furniture will be the least 1% 1% 1% 0% 0% affected by the spread of Hotels Restaurants Cruises Cars App & Acc Watches & Yachts Digital Cosmetics & Other Covid-19. Hotels Restaurants Cruises Cars App & Acc Watches Jewelley& Yachts Digital Luxury Cosmetics Fragrances& Other Jewelley Luxury Fragrances Note: 1) “Other F&L sectors” includes: F&L retailing Source: Note: 1) Elaboration on Deloitte “Other F&L sectors” surveyF&L retailing includes: Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 24 24 Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 35
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 Market Outlook: Covid-19 negative impact on 2020 revenues and future investments – Investors perspective KEY FINDINGS Despite the fact that for 40% of investors the impact on revenues will be between 21 and 30%, and that for 32% of Covid-19 is expected to have them will be between 31 and 40%, 79% of them will continue investing or scouting in the F&L industry in the future. heavy impacts on companies’ Impact on 2020 Revenues of F&L Companies Will continue investing in F&L industry revenues, 40% of investors Impact on 2020 (Percentage Revenues of F&L Companies of respondents) Will continue (Percentage of investing respondents) in F&L industry will have an impact between Impact Impact (Percentage on on20202020 Revenues of respondents) ofF&L Revenues of F&LCompanies Companies Will Willcontinue investingininF&L continue investing (Percentage of respondents) F&Lindustry industry (Percentage (Percentageofofrespondents) (Percentage 21 and 30% and 32% of them respondents) (Percentageofofrespondents) 40% respondents) predict to have an impact 40% on revenues between 31 40% and 40%. Despite these high 32% 21% 21% impacts, 79% of investors 32% 21% admit they will continue 32% investing in the F&L industry. 57% 57% 21% 57% 21% 14% 21% 14% 14% 7% 7% 4% 7% 4% 4% 4% YES YES (with restrictions) 4% 4% NO NO YES YES (with restrictions) 0-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% > 50% NO YES YES (with restrictions) 0-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% > 50% 0-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% > 50% Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 25 25 Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 25 36
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 Market Outlook: Covid-19 impact by geographical area – Investors perspective F&L geographies that will be mostly affected by the spread of Covid-19, will be Europe (53%) which is predictable, KEY FINDINGS due to the fact that a large amount of the F&L companies are based in this region, North America (18%), Japan (8%), Asia (10%) which is an growing geography for F&L and Latin America (5%). Europe and North America are expected to be the regions most affected by the spread Main geographies affected by Covid-19 of Covid-19, respectively with (Percentage of respondents) Main geographies affected by Covid-19 53% and 18% These results (Percentage of respondents) are predictable due to the fact that a large portion of the Fashion and Luxury 28% companies are based in these 25% regions. Japan is also expected to be affected although on a 18% smaller percentage. 10% 8% 5% 6% Southeast Northwest North America Asia Japan Latin Rest of the Europe Europe America World Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 26 Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 37
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 2019 Investment and Exit Strategy Expected new investments in 2020 KEY FINDINGS Personal Luxury Goods remain the most attractive sectors for investors, with Apparel & Accessories and Cosmetics The sectors considered to & Fragrances being the most prominent ones. Investments in Digital Luxury Goods are expected to increase. be most attractive based on survey respondents are: Apparel & Accessories (107%), 100% Most attractive sectors for investors Change in 2019-20 Cosmetics & Fragrances (93%), (multiple choice questions) (Percentage points) Furniture (40%) and Digital 30% No Luxury Goods (60%). Interest Apparel & across sectors is decreasing Accessories 107% 28pts compared to last year across Cosmetics & Fragrances 93% 15pts almost all the sectors. Digital Luxury Goods on the other Digital Luxury Goods 60% 53pts hand (60%) increased by 53 70% percentage points. of PE Yes Furniture 40% -17pts funds F&L Retailing 20% -9pts Watches & Jewellery 13% -22pts Will your fund Restaurants 7% -14pts acquire an F&L asset in 2020? Other 1 7% -36pts Personal Luxury Goods Other F&L sectors Notes: 1) Other includes Hotels, Private Jets, Cruises, Yachts and Cars Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 27 Notes: 1) Other includes Hotels, Private Jets, Cruises, Yachts and Cars | Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 38
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 F&L sector attractiveness Both Apparel & Accessories and Cosmetics & Fragrances are remarkably attractive to investors. Digital Luxury has KEY FINDINGS shown a notable increase since previous years, becoming a star sector for potential investments in the coming year. The Digital Luxury Goods Map of investor attraction in F&L sectors sector seems to attract more investors compared to last Map of investor attraction in F&L sectors year, resulting in a positive 60 delta from last year’s result. Digital Luxury Apparel Apparel & Accessories, as well 50 Goods & Accessories as Cosmetics & Fragrances Cosmetics are the two sectors that 40 & Fragrances remain the primary choice for 30 investors, attracted by higher margins. Change in 2019-20 20 (Percentage points) Both sectors show an 10 Selective investment propensity above Retailing 90% in 2020. 0 -10 Furniture -20 Watches & Jewellery -30 -40 Other1 -50 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100% 110% Investment propensity 2020 General investor propensity Previous year position (Percentage of respondents) Note: Note: 1) 1) Other includesHotels, Other includes Hotels,Private PrivateJets, Jets, Cruises, Cruises, Yachts Yachts andand CarsCars Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 39 28
Fashion & Luxury Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 | Private Equity and Investors Survey 2020 Sector attractiveness: current vs potential investors Both current and new F&L investors are willing to invest in consolidated sectors such as Cosmetics & Fragrances KEY FINDINGS and Apparel & Accessories. Even though newcomers seem attracted also by other segments such Digital Luxury and Furniture. As the most established Map of investor attraction in F&L sectors – Current vs potential investors sectors, Cosmetics & Fragrances and Apparel & Map of investor attraction in F&L sectors – Current vs potential investors Accessories remain the main target for all investors. 120 Attractive sectors for new Furniture has become a highly 110 investors attractive sector for new 100 investors in 2020, in line with Cosmetics & previous year's trend. New F&L investors’ propensity 90% Apparel & Fragrances Accessories New investors will especially (Percentage of respondents) 80% target innovative segments 70% such as Digital Luxury. 60% 50% Digital Luxury 40% Goods 30% Furniture 20% Selective 10% Restaurants Retailing Attractive sectors for 0% Other Watches and Jewellery current investors -10 -10% 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100% 110% 120% 130% Current F&L investors’ propensity General investor propensity (Percentage of respondents) Previous year position Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey Source: Elaboration on Deloitte survey 40 29
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