EXCURSIONSSM A GUEST DIRECTORY - Birmingham Metro Area 2012-2013 - CityVision
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contributors Julie Mann – Writer Larry O. Gay – A Montgomery implant, Julie Photographer has called Birmingham home Larry is a freelance photog- for more than ten years. Work- rapher who pursued a formal ing for several arts and cultural education with a double major attractions in town including in Commercial Art and Photog- the Birmingham Museum of raphy from Bessemer Technical Art and Birmingham Civil College in Bessemer, Alabama. Rights Institue has given her an He loves to photograph a wide up close view of the city she now variety images, anything from calls home. A freelance writer scenic, nature, architecture, by night, she loves disclosing the citylife, people, abstracts, events hidden gems she’s found along and historic photos. Larry takes the way in her Magic City. inspiration from many great Josh Miller – Writer photographers including Ansel Jenny Adams – Josh Miller works on and off Adams, Galen Rowell and Writer with the EXCURSIONS crew, Eudora Welty. Follow him on Jenny Adams is a freelance writing and editing to help Facebook to see his recent works writer, living part of the year bring the book’s stories to life. or on his website at www.gay2. in Birmingham and part in the For the Birmingham edition, gotfamiliesonline.com. East Village in New York. She Josh interviewed local chef specializes in writing about George Reis, the culinary mas- cocktails, nightlife, food and termind behind Ocean and 26. travel, and you can find her “Interviewing George was a work in Food & Wine, Budget great experience,” Josh remem- Travel, Men’s Journal, and bers. “In the same breath, he is Coastal Living. She also pens a fiercely passionate and yet com- monthly column on great places pletely down-to-earth about his to grab a drink around the globe food. And boy, can he cook!” for the Miami Herald. Her When Josh isn’t writing for side hobbies include traveling, EXCURSIONS, he spends his eating, drinking and generally creative energy brainstorming making merriment. You can Zade fun culinary projects for Kitch- contact her at www.jennyad- Shamsi-Basha – enMischief.com, a biweekly amsfreelance.com Photographer food blog he co-authors. Zade is an up and coming play- er in the world of Birmingham photography. He has photo- Rachel Davis – graphed for several metropoli- Copy Editor tan and state magazines and his Rachel Davis is a 2005 work has taken him on assign- graduate of the University of ment to Canada and Europe. Alabama at Birmingham. She He is currently a student at currently freelance writes and Birmingham-Southern College edits from her home near majoring in Political Science. Birmingham. Michael Clemmer – Nate Dreger – Photographer Photographer The work of golf landscape Nate Dreger is a freelance audio photographer, Michael Clem- engineer and amateur photogra- mer [pages 80-83] who lives pher based in Birmingham, AL, in Birmingham, appears in all where he has lived for the past the national golf magazines. 10 years. A frequent traveler, michaelclemmer.com, is consis- Nate has shot all over the world, tently rated by Google & Bing but still finds plenty of inspira- as one of the top four websites tion in the Birmingham area. for golf course photography in He can be reached via Photo: the world. www. natedreger.com. 4 EXCURSIONS
Stephen McGhee – Writer Stephen McGhee is a freelance writer living in the Birmingham area. He most recently served as editor of Birmingham Works! magazine and also edited and designed the regional publication Fore: The South’s Golfing Monthly. Padraic Major – Photographer Padraic Major, is a highly committed and professional freelance photographer based in Central Alabama. His pas- sion for people and photogra- phy makes him sensitive to the natural beauty that is all around and he captures that in every picture. His talent as a photog- Somerby rapher has taken him around at St. Vincent’s the world. He photographs for One Nineteen a broad-spectrum of American Somerby at St. Vincent’s One Nineteen is an business, industry, weddings, active rental retirement community with in- environmental portraits, and Jeffrey Rease – Photographer dependent living, assisted living, memory care sporting events. is a photographer and an art director in Birmingham, and respite accommodations. The community For the past ten years, he has AL. He has a wide variety of award-winning photogra- offers maintenance-free living complemented been covering NASCAR races phy in his portfolio, ranging from sports and landscapes by resort-style amenities and restaurant-style at the Talladega Superspeed- to natural light lifestyle portraits of children, teens, mod- dining. Services include weekly housekeeping way for the Associated Press. els and families. Visit his website at and linen service, social and educational events, His work has been published www.jeffrease.com. and scheduled transportation. Somerby at St. in Street and Smith Sports An- Vincent’s One Nineteen exclusively incorpo- nuals, Winston Cup Scene and rates Masterpiece Living into its culture by pro- major sporting websites. His viding residents an opportunity to create their corporate client list includes: own plan for aging successfully. Residents are ESPN Regional Television, offered a defined health care benefit program Hewlett Packard, AT&T, and receive priority access to on-site assisted Birmingham Chamber of living, memory care and respite accommoda- Commerce, The City of Bir- tions, if ever needed. The community is owned and managed by Somerby Senior Living, the mingham, Alabama Sports senior living services subsidiary of Dominion Foundation, Buffalo Rock, Partners, located in Birmingham, Alabama. The Miller Coors, Ford Motor Co. principals of Dominion Partners, headquartered and NASCAR Public Relations in Birmingham, have been actively involved in Department. the ownership and development of senior living • Official Photographer Magic communities for more than 20 years, including City Classic 2000, 2003, communities located in Alpharetta, Ga., Mobile, 2006-2009 Al., and Mt. Pleasant, SC. • Official Photographer Papa- Johns.com Bowl 2006-2010 Mary Thompson – Photographer 200 One Nineteen Blvd. • Official Photographer Meac Mary Thompson graduated from UAB with a degree in Birmingham, AL 35242 Swac Challenge 2005-2010 communication studies in 2004 and is now pursuing her Call 205.408.6005 or visit • Official Photographer 76 master of library and information science degree at the www.somerbyatstvincents.com Basketball Classic 2009 University of Denver. Although she is a librarian, Mary for more information. • Official Photographer SWAC does not wear glasses or believe in shushing and she only Photo: Football Championship 2009 has one cat. EXCURSIONS 5
welcome PUBLISHER’S LETTER as possible during your stay. Each year we EXCURSIONS. We are also very grateful strive to bring you relevant information to our hotel partners for placing EXCUR- about our city, our sponsors and our people. SIONS in your guestroom. In 2011, we lost an Alabama icon, Kath- I would also like to thank Mr. Jim ryn Tucker Windham. Mrs. Windham’s Smither, President of the Greater Birming- books were among the most read in elemen- ham Convention & Visitors Bureau for sug- tary schools all across our state and I recall gesting that we create this publication three vividly the stories she wrote about Alabama years ago. His belief and support of all the and its ghosts. It was probably during this services CityVision provides to the travel- time that I discovered a love for reading ing community is invaluable and greatly and sharing stories. It is, therefore, fitting appreciated. that I dedicate this edition of EXCUR- Most of all, my staff and I would like to SIONS to the memory of Kathryn Tucker thank you for reading EXCURSIONS. Windham. Her influence on Alabama cul- We hope that we have provided you with a ture will be forever treasured. tremendous number of recommendations September 2010, Railroad Park opened for how to spend your free time while visiting and has become the epicenter for residents Birmingham. Please visit us again soon. and visitors to enjoy the outdoors in an ur- W ban setting. Be sure to read Jenny Adams’ Safe travels! elcome to the third edi- article about Railroad Park. tion of EXCURSIONS We are particularly proud of this edition – A Guest Directory for because it boasts the greatest number of Birmingham Metro. advertisers and sponsors than any past edi- This edition is packed tion. We are so thankful to our advertisers full of the best our town has to offer in din- and sponsors for investing in this publica- Brent Boyd ing, shopping, attractions and night life. I tion and we hope that you will let them PUBLISHER invite you to visit as many of our sponsors know that you saw their advertisements in Follow me on Twitter @CityVisionInc 6 EXCURSIoNS
contents ON THE COVER: Birmingham’s Railroad Park offers spectacular views of the city and a beautiful location for events and festivals. photography by Brent Boyd 8 Of Stage and Page 36 Groomed for Greatness 68 Birmingham’s Kathryn tucker Windham shaped Butler’s Grooming helps you step up Craft Breweries Alabama with her words. your style in a space designed with a two spots worth visiting in man in mind. the Magic City. 10 The Magic City’s Heart of Green 38 Magic City Charm 72 Birmingham Nightlife Railroad Park honors the past, while Birmingham’s neighborhoods and From cocktails and cigars to live promising big things for the future. suburbs vary as widely as their music and beer, find the spot visitors and offer something for that’s perfect for you. 14 Main Attractions every taste, interest and personality. the Birmingham Metro area offers 80 Southern Draws a broad range of attractions worth getting out of your hotel room. 54 An Ocean of Flavor Alabama’s prestigious golf courses Chef George Reis serves and state parks offer a variety of seafood in style. fun — and challenges — for all. 22 Performing Arts No longer an industrial giant, 56 Love at First Bite 86 Annual Events Birmingham’s new “magic” is in the From art shows, parades, music From casual dives to some of the thriving arts community. festivals and football to bass fishing, country’s best fine dining, NASCAR and motocross, Birmingham 28 Get Ready, Get Set, Shop! Birmingham’s culinary hotspots are sure to delight. has something every month this town offers shoppers a run for of the year. their money. EXCURSIONS – A Guest Directory is published annually and is a registered service mark of CityVision, Inc., 3021 Sixth Avenue South, Birmingham, Alabama 35233. (205) 595-0809. Copyright 2012-13 by CityVision, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without express written permission of CityVision, Inc. EXCURSIoNS 7
in memoriam Of Stage & Page Kathryn Tucker Windham Shaped Alabama with Her Words By Jenny Adams S he was the definition of storytelling.” That is one of In typical small-town fashion, the paper was owned by Earl Tuck- the ways Dolores Hydock, acclaimed actress and sto- er, Kathryn’s cousin. Earl paid her for her movie reviews with free ryteller, remembers the Alabama legend, Kathryn tickets to more movies. Tucker Windham. There are other things Her early home life was also devoted to writing and rheto- that come to light when Hydock speaks ric. Growing up as the youngest, Kathryn loved listen- about her friend—memories of her ing to her father, James, a banker by trade and a great standing on stage for hours with- storyteller by talent. out so much as a notecard, unraveling stories “When you look at her role models, I’d say that kept thousands spellbound time and time she felt inspired by Julia Tutwiler, and she again. There are memories of Windham’s was close to her older brothers,” offers Jake humble home and quick wit, and of her en- Reiss, close friend and owner of the Home- couraging nature. For Alabamians, and wood bookstore, Alabama Booksmith— many far beyond our state, Windham where Windham would later often host is remembered as a prolific author, a book signings. “But her daddy…man, talented photographer and one of the he was her biggest hero in the world.” last great, old-fashioned storytellers, She made her hero proud, no capturing even a generation plied by doubt, when she graduated in 1935 iPods and cellphones. When Kath- from Thomasville High School as ryn Tucker Windham passed away valedictorian of her class. The fol- in June of 2011 at the age of 93, she lowing fall, she moved to Mont- left behind a legacy for the state of gomery for college. Alabama and these parting words “Money was scarce in her fam- from her last moments on stage. ily during that time,” offers Hilley. “Everybody here has stories “My mother’s father, James Wil- to tell…to tell to someone you son Tucker, had been president of love. And now is the time to tell the Bank of Thomasville, which of them.” Her craft of storytell- course dissolved with the onset of ing let the public in on who she The Depression. Mother was for- was as a person. Her devotion to tunate to get a scholarship to attend journalism, photography, writing Huntingdon College.” and rhetoric let the world in on her Kathryn minored in history prowess far beyond the Alabama and majored in English, joining the state lines. honorary literary society known as Chi Delta Phi. She edited the college Her Early Years newspaper as well, and, it probably Kathryn Tucker was born to Helen wasn’t a huge surprise, when she gradu- Gaines Tucker and James Wilson Tucker ated in 1939 and began looking for a job on an early June day in 1918 at the Union in serious journalism. What would sur- Street Hospital in Selma. Although the cou- prise the world was her choice of coverage. ple lived in Thomasville, some 60 miles south- west, they made the trek to a larger city for better The Alabama Journalist hospital facilities. She took a job at The Alabama Journal in Montgom- “My grandmother came up to Selma from her ery as a reporter and became the first female to cover home in Thomasville a month in advance of mother’s the police beat for a major daily. While her talents definite- birth,” explains Kathryn’s daughter, Dilcy Hilley. “My grand- ly helped her succeed at the role, she was aided in landing the father’s first wife, Annie, died in childbirth with my mother’s half- job by another force. During these years, the second World War was brother, Wilson. Her father married Annie’s younger sister Helen, and quickly stripping America of its male workforce. Kathryn filled shoes he didn’t want to take any chances with pregnancy complications.” no woman before her had been allowed to occupy. Kathryn quickly made a name for herself in the world, starting at As the war escalated, Kathryn moved to Birmingham and accept- the tender age of 12, when she landed her first job reviewing movies ed the role of publicity director for the Alabama War Bond Commit- Photo: for The Thomasville Times. tee from 1942 to 1944. She devoted the subsequent two years to work- 8 EXCURSIONS
in memoriam ing for The Birmingham News as a reporter, and would—during those personal truths to audiences in 28 states, as well as overseas. years—meet her future husband, Amasa Windham. Her best-selling books, centered around unique subjects, felt close Amasa, an acclaimed reporter, had, like so many others, been at home for Kathryn and for her daughter, Dilcy. She wrote several pulled overseas to Japan to serve in the Navy. Their daughter, titles pertaining to a spirit that lived in her Selma home—a ghost Dilcy, remembers a humorous anecdote about the way her parents named Jeffrey. Her ghost stories became modern classics for Ala- finally met. bama children and adults, alike. Jeffrey was a very real, very lasting “Mother said when she started work there, all she heard was, presence in the Windham house in Selma. ‘Amasa this,’ and ‘Amasa that.’ And ‘Oh, won’t we be glad when “In the mid-1960s … Mother decided she would write a cook- Amasa gets home,’” Hilley explains. “He was widely adored by book. Treasured Alabama Recipes became an instant big seller, largely friends and co-workers. Mother said she was sick to death of hear- because of the stories that accompanied the family collection of ing about Amasa. One afternoon while she was working away at her recipes. About this same time, unexplained occurrences began in typewriter, the elevator doors opened at The Birmingham News, and our house,” recalls her daughter, Dilcy Hilley. “I was the only child out stepped a dashing man in full white Navy regalia. Everyone in still at home, my older sister and brother by then off at college. the newsroom jumped up and went running to greet Amasa, who One afternoon, Mother and I were in the kitchen rolling out cookie had finally come home from the war. My mother continued typing dough. At that very moment we heard a ruckus in the living room while everybody else fawned over him.” unlike anything I’ve ever heard since, loud and scratching noises Amasa was apparently smitten with Kathryn from the onset, yet that seemed to come not from one particular area of the room, but his first attempts to ask her out were met with blatant rejection. Ac- rather from a room filled completely with an unsettling sound. We cording to Hilley, when Windham asked Tucker to join him and his looked at each other, startled, and moved quickly to investigate. friends for a drink after work, she replied coldly, “I wouldn’t be the At the first movement of the doors, the room became totally si- least bit interested.” lent. No, eerily silent. We went back into the kitchen. As soon as the “My daddy joined the staff of The Birmingham News upon his return,” dough was almost thin enough to make acceptably crisp cookies, it Hilley continues. “One day he sent a copy boy over to deliver a note to began again, this time louder and with more force than before as if my mother. It read: ‘Would you be the least bit interested in joining me the room was holding an earthquake within its walls. In the weeks for dinner tonight?’ Three months later they were married.” and months that followed, the unaccountable goings-on contin- Kathryn and Amasa had three children—Kathryn Tabb (Kitti) ued. We were amazed, entertained and puzzled, but we were never Windham of Selma, Amasa Benjamin (Ben) Windham of Tuscaloosa frightened.” and Helen Ann (Dilcy) Windham Hilley of Birmingham—and when he died of a heart attack in 1956, Kathryn was faced with the role of The Final Chapter single mother. True to form, she tackled the job head on, even turn- Amazed, entertained and puzzled are all actually fitting when look- ing the hard lessons into enlightening journalism through a weekly ing back at the life and work of Kathryn Tucker Windham. column called “Around Our House.” The column was so popular, it “Apparently there’s a verse in the Bible that says ‘we are granted was syndicated in newspapers across the state. three score and ten years,’” her publisher Randall Williams recalls. From 1959 until 1973, Windham served The Selma Times-Journal “So, when Kathryn got around to her 70th birthday, she commis- as a reporter. She won several Associated Press awards for reporting sioned a local carpenter to build her casket. She lived another 23 and photography, and, through her lens and her words, the world got years, so that plain pine casket sat on a sawhorse in her little carport a glimpse of the racial turmoil of the state and the South. garage alongside the house. She kept her china in there, which she “She was an accomplished photographer,” recalls her publisher, almost never used. She was lovely and also eccentric in funny and editor and friend Randall Williams. “The first thing many people endearing ways.” would notice about her was that she was an extremely curious wom- Windham certainly had a talent for wrapping people up in to an. She had a highly evolved sense of curiosity about people, the her world. She had a gift for making her tiny corner of Alabama a world she lived in, her home state and her home region. That curios- place shared with audiences so that they too felt they “lived” there. ity showed up in her work as a journalist, I’m sure, and it definitely That last story of her simple pine casket, along with many others, was showed up in her books that I had the fortune to read and edit.” published posthumously in Kathryn’s final book, She: The Old Woman Who Took Over My Life. In it, she addresses old age, evoking fond mem- A Place in the Spotlight ories alongside frustrations with aging. Kathryn Tucker Windham’s body of work brought her dual recogni- Windham was inducted into the Academy of Honor in Montgom- tion. She published 29 books before her death, and she also took to ery before she passed, with a nomination by famed Alabama author the stage hundreds of times to perform, starting in the late 1960s. She of To Kill a Mockingbird, Harper Lee. Lee would, if willing to give an would continue to speak professionally right up until her death. interview, no doubt also speak about Windham as a dear and per- “She connected with an audience whether there were 20 people sonal friend, a legend among writers and a good ‘ole teller of stories. in the room or 200. She was always generous with her time and tal- Standing on a stage, with over 1,000 people gathered to hear her ent,” recalls actress, fellow friend and storyteller, Dolores Hydock. speak, you could always be assured of two things when Kathryn bent Hydock met Kathryn in 1974 at the National Storytelling Festival to the microphone. in Jonesborough, Tenn. “My story-telling style is very different from “She never, ever, in all the years I knew her, carried a notecard,” hers, because I didn’t grow up in same environment or in the South,” recalls Jake Reiss. “She would shoot from the hip and always enter- offers Hydock. “There’s a sittin’ on the porch, rockin’ and talkin’ tain. She also demanded that they introduce her with one simple line. style of storytelling. That was Kathryn’s. She loved to engage people ‘Please welcome Kathryn Tucker Windham. She’s from Selma, Ala- with the events of the day.” bama, and she tells stories.’” Nearly two dozen appearances at that festival followed for Kath- What a humble opener for a woman whose life closed bringing so Photo: ryn, and her lifetime would include recounting beautiful, moving, much to American history. ❖ EXCURSIONS 9
10 EXCURSIONS
The Magic City’s Heart of Green Railroad Park Honors the Past, While Promising Big Things for the Future B y J e n n y A dams G iles Perkins had his The vacant blight of rusted tracks running change makers in our community. It also two sons in tow—a 5 through downtown was beckoning. introduced a generation of emerging pro- year old and a 6 year “Friends of mine, living near the site, fessionals to the potential of this part of old—as he walked suggested I talk to a group called Friends of our city. through one of down- the Railroad District (FoRRD),” Perkins “I had seen similar projects in other town Birmingham’s recalls. “Some were urbanites living down- cities transform whole neighborhoods and most historic districts town, longing for green space. The others districts. This area of the city—on historic in 2003. The scene was not a vision honor- were really into trains. They all wanted to maps—is the Railroad Reservation,” she ing the past or a good omen for the future. build a string of parks through the area.” continues. “It was—along with the natural The trio looked out over a landscape that He became president of their board, resources of iron ore, coal, limestone, wood a century earlier held a train depot and and they eventually formed the Railroad and water—the reason for Birmingham’s marked an important center for Birming- Park Foundation. Between 2004 and 2007, founding in 1871. We are the only place in ham’s pride and joy—rail and steel. the group raised a staggering $23 million, the country with these ingredients, and so “There were two burned-out railroad moving ahead with a project that was both the joining of north/south and east/west rail cars and a trailer with a sign that read, privately and publicly funded. lines along Jones Valley created the city’s ‘Don’t knock unless you are police. I will This park was a dream for many long impetus of enterprise. I think in the early shoot,’” Perkins recalls. He quickly realized before 2004. It’s always been in the hearts days, that was a ‘place holder,’ because of that this was no place for children. Two of downtown dwellers and the civic-minded the name of the location. But, as work be- abandoned warehouses surrounded by bro- citizens, like Cheryl Morgan. As profes- gan in earnest, it was clear that people iden- ken glass, rusted tracks, signs of squatters sor and director of the Auburn University tified with that name, the place and with a and dead grass furthered that this was no Urban Studio, she’s lived and worked in love of our railroad history.” picnic spot for adults, either. the downtown area since 1997. The Urban Today, if you stand where Perkins Studio functions as an outreach component Getting Underway stood, your gaze travels across 20 acres of of the Auburn University School of Archi- Tom Leader, principal of Tom Leader Stu- green space, including hundreds of native tecture, Planning and Landscape Architec- dio, was contracted as the main architect trees, grasses, shrubs and flowers. You can ture, here in Birmingham. for the park. He’s a man with no short- hear the sound of a stream that feeds into “The Urban Studio was one of the age of accolades in designing community a recirculating water system, traverse the early champions of the Railroad Park,” spaces, including numerous commercial crushed stone path of a strolling garden, explains Morgan. “In the mid to late ‘80s, and public projects in cities like Denver and visit a strength/conditioning exercise area leaders in the city and planning/design San Francisco, and two under his direction or laugh with the kids enjoying a skatebowl. community began talking about the idea took home American Society of Landscape The fetid wasteland in the center of Bir- of a ‘central’ park that would capture the Architects (ASLA) Honor Awards—Lon- mingham that Giles Perkins once pulled his untapped potential of largely vacant or gacres Park in Seattle, Washington and children away from is now Railroad Park— under-utilized land at the heart of down- Asahikawa Riverfront Park in Hokkaido, Birmingham’s heart of green. town. Frank Setzer—founding director Japan. For Railroad Park, he worked on the of the Urban Studio—knew the potential master plan and hardscape park elements, Gathering Together of projects like this to create economic and locally with landscape architecture Perkins is the president emeritus of the development opportunities and a way to firm Macknally Land Design. Railroad Park Foundation. A lawyer by leverage other assets like the Civil Rights “The park is a partnership between City day, he’s also been a bit of a superhero where Institute, the Alabama Theater, UAB, the of Birmingham and the Railroad Park Foun- the Magic City’s community needs are Museum of Art and Sloss Furnaces. He dation, and it’s about a 50/50 split,” explains Photo: brent boyd concerned. After helping the struggling Bir- began to use the railroad corridor as a site Lea Ann Macknally, president of Macknally mingham Zoo find private funding (it’s now for numerous Urban Studio class projects. Land Design. “I think it’s a good case study, the largest attraction in Alabama, drawing These studies, along with mid-town hous- because things have been done like this on half-a-million visitors annually, thanks to ing studies, helped to keep the notion of smaller scales, but the sheer size of this park the deal), he felt a need for another project. Railroad Park visible to leadership and is a testament to what can be achieved.” ➤ EXCURSIONS 11
As the best things in life often do, this Something for Everyone teenth Street terminates into the main pla- one came with a resounding set of chal- While the challenges seemed to sprout za, which will accommodate special event lenges. from every possible corner of the park, set up.” There are also food service vendors “We started working with Tom in 2007, the teams pushed onward, never stopping and restrooms there. An improved pedes- when the park project got underway, and to even consider that this might not be a trian corridor providing connection from it definitely took longer than we imagined. reality. The original plans were redrawn UAB and Children’s of Alabama campuses There were some old deeds to the property and reworked with each challenge, with a to the south, is slated for 17th Street. that the railroad owned, and we had to final, realized dream of 20 acres spread- The crushed rock path that winds have agreements on those. We had chal- ing through central downtown opening in through the strolling garden on the south lenges like utilities that had been there for September of 2010. The dimensions of the end of the park affords guests the smells 80 years we had to work around, and we main park run from 14th Street South to and sights of bright Knockout Roses and had a major electrical transmission line that 18th Street South, encompassing the area ornamental grasses that change colors runs east west through the site. It provides between 1st Avenue South and the railroad throughout the seasons. Ongoing work with power to half the city, and you can’t move tracks that split downtown. At every inter- the Birmingham Museum of Art continues it. We also had a major water line that ran section, there’s a plaza for people to gather, for sculpture artists to add installations, and north south through the site that was in a each with a unique feature. the park’s two bridges allow visitors to expe- sensitive condition, and additional sewer “We have a Birch Grove in one, skate- rience the trains at the same level as well as and fiber optic cables to work around,” board bowls in another and small ponds to view the park and its stream system. The she recalls. “I think as far as the amount of fed by the stream system at each,” explains stream itself serves a purpose beyond mere coordination with the utilities and the rail- Macknally. “At the 14th Street plaza, there visual beauty. road, this was the most challenging project are exercise elements to use for strength “A lot of what we do is integrated storm to date not only for us, but for everyone training. I think a lot of the runners love to water management,” Macknally says of her involved.” use them before or after their runs. Seven- firm. “It’s just, in our opinion, a better way Railroad Park’s expansive lawn offers seating for movie nights and other events photograph by Larry O. Gay
to handle storm water and water conserva- ful, individual moments where friends meet “I think one of the most important tion. The small pond at 14th Street collects for lunch. George’s Boxcar Cafe opened things about Railroad Park is that it has water from the stream and pumps it back in spring of 2011, with beloved local chef shown this community that we can do it,” east to flow through a wetland area with George Sarris of city restaurants, The Fish continues Morgan. “It took many people, native plants. The wetland is the natural Market and DoDiYos, at the helm. the city, foundations and citizens to make it filtration system for the park.” Just as the flowers and trees are living happen, but it did. That is so confirming.” and growing, so is the park itself. The plans Giles Perkins can’t help but agree. For Coming Attractions still have more to come. him, thinking back on those days of angry, When the park opened, the landscape “The overall diagram done by Tom spray-painted words on a trailer and bro- architects requested that the city refrain Leader suggests that the park will be the ken bits of the city’s legacy scattered on the from large-scale events for a year to let the western anchor of a green corridor that ground, and now, to what has been realized new plants settle. These upcoming years runs east along Powell and First South to in the form of nationally recognized green however, will see new levels of traffic to the Sloss Furnaces,” explains Cheryl Morgan. space, he can’t help but be excited for the park. The western plaza is capable of outfit- “In some places this will be along the street next generations of Birmingham. ting a massive stage, and the lawn beyond it and right-of-ways. In other places, we ex- “I always tell my kids, ‘You can make can accommodate 50,000 people with full pect it will expand to deeper green places your community better,’” he says, thought- sightlines to performers on stage. Potentially, both passive and active. Many people envi- fully. “The best projects…the best ideas… Railroad Park could one day hold some of sion an adaptive re-use of the rail bed—the have bad moments. I hope that people with Birmingham’s larger events like the annual ‘cut’ that goes along 1st Street between 20th big dreams and big projects will come out Schaeffer Eye Center Crawfish Boil or a new and 24th as a good ‘next’ phase. The city here during the challenging times and look City Stages. Summer concert series, outdoor has a strategy for streetscape improvements around and realize what is possible. This theater, kids camps and movie nights are that will reinforce the concept of extending is possible. This is what determination can already happening, as well as those beauti- the “green” from 14th to 32nd Street. produce.” EXCURSIONS 13
attractions Main Attractions The Birmingham-Hoover area offers a broad range of attractions worth getting out of your hotel room. Alabama Adventure Alabama Sports Hall of Fame Theatre hosted the premiere of Sweet Home Gear up for a day of wet and wild fun for Over the last thirty-five years, the ASHOF Alabama during the Sidewalk Film Festival the whole family at this theme park and has become the benchmark for other sports in 2002. The Summer and Holiday Film water playground. Take a daring plunge museums across the country, with more festivals are also big draws, as are showings down the Acalpulco Drop or hold on as than 5,000 sports artifacts elegantly dis- of the classics around Christmas. Monday- you go down the Wild River Gorge. Classic played in the 33,000 square foot building. Friday, 9 am-4 pm plus film screenings rides like the Pirate Ship and Scrambler sit On ESPN’s list of the top 100 athletes of the and events. 1817 Third Avenue North, alongside newer, faster rides like the Space century, five out of the top fifteen are in the 205.252.2262, www.alabamatheatre.org Shot and Splashdown. Seasonal hours. ASHOF: Jesse Owens, Hank Aaron, Joe Admission charged. 4599 Alabama Louis, Willie Mays and Carl Lewis. This is Alabama Veterans Memorial Adventure Parkway, 205.481.4750, Alabama, so also expect to see Paul “Bear” Foundation www.alabamaadventure.com Bryant, James Ralph “Shug” Jordan and This memorial is a place to ref lect on the Joe Namath memorabilia. Monday-Friday, contributions Alabama veterans have Alabama Jazz Hall of Fame 9 am-5 pm. Admission charged. 2150 Rich- made to preserve our nation’s freedom. Located in the historic 4th Avenue Busi- ard Arrington, Jr. Blvd. North, 205.323.6665, Amid peaceful Alabama woodlands, you ness District inside the art-deco Carver www.ashof.org can peruse the names of Alabamians lost Theatre that has seen the likes of Duke to war. A timeline in the memorial walk- Ellington and Lionel Hampton grace the Alabama Theatre way outlines historic events and descrip- stage, the Alabama Jazz Hall of Fame of- The Alabama Theatre was constructed by tions of Alabama’s 23 Medal of Honor fers exhibitions honoring the Jazz greats Paramount Theatre in 1927 as the Alabama recipients in the 20 th century. In the court- Photo: ron blakely with ties to Alabama. Honorees include showcase for Paramount films. It was used yard, those Medal of Honor stories appear W.C. Handy, Ella Fitzgerald and Nat King primarily as a movie palace for 55 years, but on columns, along with artwork and let- Cole. Tuesday-Saturday, 10 am-5 pm. Ad- also hosted the annual Miss Alabama pag- ters. Closed major holidays. Liberty Park mission Charged. 1631 4th Avenue North, eant and the weekly Mickey Mouse Club. and I-459, 205.985.9488, 205.254.2731, www.jazzhall.com Still a haven for movie buffs, the Alabama www.alabamaveterans.com 14 EXCURSIONS
attractions Birmingham Museum of Art Aldridge Botanical Gardens Arlington Antebellum Birmingham Botanical Gardens Noted horticulturist Eddie Aldridge was Home and Garden Birmingham Botanical Gardens is Ala- hired to plant three magnolia trees at the Arlington is a fine example of Greek bama’s largest living museum with more Cox Family Estate in 1966. That planted Revival architecture dating from the than 10,000 different plants in its living the idea for a public garden in ever-growing 1840s, before the founding of Birming- collections. The Gardens’ 67.5 acres con- Hoover. Aldridge Botancial Gardens fea- ham. The house was built by Judge tains 25-plus unique gardens, 30-plus tures more than 175 hydrangea species and William S. Mudd, one of the 10 founders. works of original outdoor sculpture and cultivars growing among other plants on The house is furnished with a collection miles of serene paths. The Gardens features the 30-acre grounds. Of particular inter- of 19th century decorative arts. Arlington the largest public horticulture library in the est is the snowflake hydrangea, bred by is a center for historical, cultural and civic United States, conservatories, a wildflower Aldridge and his father and fellow horti- activities. Admission charged. Tuesday- garden, two rose gardens, the Southern culturist, Loren. Free admission. Seasonal Saturday, 10am-4pm, Sunday 1-4pm. Living garden and Japanese Gardens with hours. 3530 Lorna Road, 205.682.8019, 331 Cotton Avenue SW, 205.780.5656, a traditionally crafted tea house. Free ad- www.aldridgegardens.com www.informationbirmingham.com/arlington mission. Dawn to dusk daily. 2612 Lane Park Road, 205.414.3950, www.bbgardens.org American Village Barber Vintage Motorsports Join George Washington, Thomas Jeffer- Museum Birmingham Civil Rights Institute son, Benjamin Franklin and a host of oth- This architecturally spectacular museum The Institute tells the story and captures er early-American historical figures on a houses the world’s largest motorcycle col- the drama of the Civil Rights Movement tour of this replicated Revolutionary War lection, with more than 1,200 vintage and in Birmingham. Once coined “Bombing- town. The tour brings to life America’s modern bikes ranging from 1902 models to ham” for the violence that erupted in the quest for liberty and independence, focus- present day and from common street bikes city during this pivotal time in American ing on rekindling patriotism in children to rare, one-off Gran Prix race machinery. history, the permanent collection envokes by teaching American history, civics and The museum also showcases the largest col- emotion as guests are confronted with im- government in a hands-on fashion, in- lection of Lotus and other significant cars. ages of the firehoses blasting children in cluding participation in a mock election. It is located on a park that includes a world Kelly Ingram Park, tells the amazing story Admission charged. Monday-Friday, 10 class 2.38 mile track that houses the Porsche of local hero Reverend Fred Shuttlesworth, am-4 pm or by appointment. Driving School. Admission charged. Sea- and displays the original cell door that sonal hours. 6030 Barber Motorsports Pkwy, trapped Martin Luther King, Jr. as he Photo: 3727 Highway 119, 205.665.3535, www.americanvillage.org 205.699.7275, www.barbermuseum.org wrote the famous “Letter from a Birming- 16 EXCURSIONS
attractions ham Jail.” The journey ends with a view birmingham Public library circuit television. Free admission; Pay to of today’s continuing struggles for human The Birmingham Public Library, one of play. Opens 11 am daily. 1000 John Rogers rights. Admission charged. Donations only the largest and most well-respected library Drive, 205.838.7500, www.birmingham- on Sundays. Free on Martin Luther King, systems in the Southeast, consists of 19 racecourse.com Jr. Holiday. Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-5pm, branches and a main library located down- Sunday 1-5pm. 520 16th Street North, town. The main library downtown is com- birmingham Zoo 205.328.9696,www.bcri.org posed of two compelling buildings, the East The Birmingham Zoo is Alabama’s most Building, with its dramatic atrium, and the popular attraction, drawing more than birmingham Museum of art Linn-Henley Research Library, with its 500,000 visitors annually. Approximately The Birmingham Museum of Art houses beautiful wall murals, the Tutwiler Collec- 750 animals of 250 different species call a diverse collection of more than 24,000 tion of Southern History (named one of the the 122-acre Birmingham Zoo home, paintings, sculpture, prints, drawings and top 10 library collection for genealogists by including sea lions, kangaroos and en- decorative arts dating from ancient to Family Tree Magazine) and the Rucker Agee dangered species from six continents. The modern times. The collection presents a Map Collection. Free admission. Monday- “Trails of Africa” initiative is blazing new rich panorama of cultures, featuring the Tuesday, 9am-8pm, Wednesday-Saturday, trails in elephant conservation. Intended extensive holdings of Asian, European, 9am-6pm, Sunday, 2pm-6pm. 2100 Park to set new benchmarks for the care and American, African, Pre-Columbian and Place, 205.226.3600, www.bplonline.org breeding of endangered elephants, this Native American art as well as the Kress mixed-species exhibit also features red Collection of Italian Renaissance painting birmingham race Course river hogs, giraffes, rhinos, wildebeest and and sculptures. Best known for its collec- With more than 200 simulcast races on other animals of the continent in a more tion of Wedgwood, it also houses the finest Saturday alone, this race course presents natural habitat. Other popular draws collection of Vietnamese ceramics and the the best in simulcast wagering opportuni- are the Hugh Kaul Children’s Zoo, the only known collection of early 19th-century ties. Here, even the most ardent handicap- Lorikeet Aviary and the interactive Sea European cast iron objects in the country. per has the chance to “hit a big one.” From Lion Splash Show, as well as other daily Free admission. Tuesday-Saturday, tiered-table seating on the clubhouse level, shows featuring various species. Admis- 10am-5pm, Sunday, noon-5pm. patrons enjoy cocktails and Southern sion charged. Open daily 9am-5pm. 260 2000 Rev. Abraham Woods, Jr. Blvd., cuisine served with down-home hospital- Cahaba Road, 205.879.0409, 205.254.2565, www.artsbma.org ity while watching select races on closed www.birminghamzoo.com ➤ Rickwood Field Photo: MIChael WaDe eXCUrSIonS 17
attractions McWane Science Center Cahaba River everyone in the family will have a blast. in April of 1983, the International Mo- Grab your kayak or canoe and ride the cur- Admission charged. Monday-Friday, 9 am- torsports Hall of Fame and Museum is rent down this longest-free flowing river 5:30 pm, Saturday, 9 am-6:30 pm, Sunday, dedicated to the preservation of the history in Alabama. Both scenic and biologically 1 pm-6:30 pm. 5181 DeSoto Caverns Pkwy, of motorsports. It has experienced tremen- diverse, the river is home to the unique Ca- 800.933.2283, www.desotocavernspark.com dous growth, with its collection of racing haba Lily, 131 species of freshwater fish (18 vehicles and memorabilia, from 1902 to of which have not been found elsewhere), International Motorsports Hall of present, valued at more than $15 million, 40 species of mussels and 35 species of snail. Fame/Motorsports Museum and increasing every year. Admission The first provisional state capital, Cahaw- Spanning three buildings and the enclosed charged. Seasonal hours. 3198 Speedway ba, founded at its mouth in 1819, was the courtyard, this collection of history-making Blvd. (Talladega), 256.362.5002, hub of riverboat commerce on the Alabama vehicles includes more than six halls of www.motorsportshalloffame.com River. 2717 7th Avenue South, 205.322.5326, fame and a racecar simulator. Opened www.cahabariversociety.org Kelly Ingram Park This historic park was the stage for one of DeSoto Caverns the most pivotal scenes of the Civil Rights The cavern tour takes visitors through Movement. Under the direction of Public thousands of cave formations, making it Service Commissioner Eugene “Bull” one of the most concentrated collections in Connor, police and firefighters, armed America. The tour begins in a room that with high-powered water hoses and snarl- is 12 stories high and larger than a football ing dogs, met demonstrators. Many of the field. The caverns stays a comfortable demonstrators were children and images 60 degrees year round, but 100 percent spurred a national outcry for racial equal- humidity inside the caverns makes the ity. Today, dramatic sculptures depict the temperature feels closer to 70. With more infamous scenes. Charge only for audio Southern than 25 family activities, such as the three- Museum tour from the Birmingham Civil Rights quarter acre Lost Trail Maze, Panning Institute’s admission desk. Corner of 5th Photo: of Flight for Gemstones and Wacky Water Golf, Avenue and 16th Street North 18 EXCURSIONS
attractions Alabama Jazz Birmingham Hall of Fame Public Library McWane Science Center other unique natural features. It includes at Birmingham, the Reynolds Historical Fun and learning never end at this hands-on miles of hiking trails through unspoiled for- Library maintains a growing collection of museum and IMAX® Dome Theater. Four ests. Ideal for nature lovers, Moss Rock is a over 13,000 rare books and manuscripts floors of interactive exhibits celebrate sci- magnet for anyone who enjoys bouldering, pertaining to the history of medicine and ence and wonder — from an amazing collec- bird watching or just meandering through science, dating from the 14th to the early tion of dinosaurs to innovative environmen- the woods. Free admission. Preserve Park- 20th centuries. Free admission. Monday- tal showcases, imaginative early childhood way, 205.739.7141, www.hooveral.org Friday, 9 am-5 pm. 1700 University Blvd, playgrounds and an awe-inspiring aquar- 205.934.4475, www.uab.edu/reynolds ium. The excitement of discovery springs Oak Mountain State Park to life through an extensive daily lineup of As Alabama’s largest park, Oak Mountain Rickwood Field educational science demonstrations. The ad- provides 9,940 acres of pine-studded ridges Built in 1910, Rickwood Field is America’s venture intensifies in the IMAX® Dome The- and lush green hardwood bottoms. The oldest baseball park. During its heyday, ater, where visitors experience the sights and park offers vacation cottages, golf, improved Rickwood hosted baseball greats such as sounds of films on a five-story-tall screen camping, picnicking, swimming, boating, Jackie Robinson, Ty Cobb, Babe Ruth, surrounded bythree tons of high-intensity fishing, hiking, mountain bike trails, back- Lorenzo “Piper” Davis, Willie Mays and speakers. Admission charged. Monday- packing, a demonstration farm and horse- “Shoeless” Joe Jackson. Friends and fans Friday, 9 am-5 pm, Saturday, 10 am-6 pm, back riding facilities. Admission charged. eagerly await the annual Rickwood Clas- Sunday, noon-6 pm. 200 19th Street North, Open 7am-dusk, later for registered camp- sic, a game that pits the AA Birmingham 205.714.8300, www.mcwane.org ers. 200 Terrace Drive, 205.620.2520, Barons against a regular Southern League www.alapark.com/oakmountain rival. Team members dress in vintage uni- Moss Rock Preserve forms, and people come from around the The 250-acre beautiful nature preserve is Reynolds Historical Library country to celebrate baseball history. The abundant with trees and plants, rock out- A part of Historical Collections at the Lister authenticity of Rickwood is being care- croppings, streams, waterfalls, wildlife and Hill Library at the University of Alabama fully preserved by the Friends of Rickwood Vulcan Park and Museum Vulcan Park is home to the world’s largest cast iron statue and features spectacular panoramic views of Birmingham. Located atop Red Mountain, Vulcan Park tells the story of Birmingham’s past, present and promise for the future. Vulcan, the Roman god of fire and forge, was originally built in 1904 as Birmingham’s entry in the World’s Fair contest. Vulcan won first place. A 10-acre urban green space surrounds the 56-foot high statue and observation balcony that sits upon a 124-foot pedestal. Photo: (TOP LEFT) Larry o. Gay Visitors to the Vulcan Center find interactive exhibits and displays that give insight into the region’s history and industrial growth. Vulcan Park is open seven days a week from 7 am - 10 pm. Vulcan Center and Tower Observa- Vulcan Park tion Balcony is open Monday - Saturday, 10 am - 6 pm and Museum and Sunday 1 pm-6 pm. EXCURSIONS 19
attractions Alabama Veterans American Village Memorial Foundation Birmingham Sixteenth Street Botanical Gardens Baptist Church Field, a non-profit organization devoted to Samuel Ullman Museum that it awakened the city and the nation and the restoration and upkeep of the historic For years, Samuel Ullman (1840-1924) and was a turning point in race relations. The ball field. Open Monday – Friday, 8am – his prose poem “Youth” have been admired sanctuary features a beautiful stained-glass 5pm. Check events schedule for expanded by the Japanese, but the man and his work window, a gift from the people of Wales. hours. 1137 2nd Avenue West. 205.458.8161. are largely unknown in the United States, Tours are given 10 am-4 pm, Tuesday- www.rickwood.com even in Birmingham where the German-Jew Friday and by appointment on Saturdays. spent the last 40 years of his life. “Youth” of Groups should call to make arrangements. Ruffner Mountain Nature Preserve course is not a poem only for the Japanese 1530 6th Avenue North, 205.251.9402, Just ten minutes from downtown, this but more a directive for the way one should www.16thstreetbaptist.org 1,011-acre nature preserve is a quiet get- live life. Japanese visitors commonnly make away for nature lovers. Easy to moderate pilgrimages to the Samuel Ullman Museum, Sloss Furnaces National hiking trails lead through a Southern created to advance Ullman’s civic, educa- Historic Landmark upland forest with its diversity of plant tional and religious ideas and endeavors. Sloss is a 32-acre blast furnace plant and animal life including resident and To schedule a tour or meeting space call where iron was made for nearly 100 years. migratory birds. Find a spectacular view 205.934.3328 or email isss@uab.edu. Now a museum of history and industry, at Hawk’s View overlook. Beautiful spring 2150 15th Avenue South, www. main.uab. the site preserves an extraordinary col- wildf lowers and autumn color highlight edu/sites/UllmanMuseum lection of buildings, industrial structures the seasons. The new Visitors Center of- and machinery. These industrial artifacts Photo: (Bottom Left) Nate dreger fers lessons in nature and the environment Sixteenth Street Baptist Church typify the first 100 years of Birming- and has exhibits including raptors, turtles National Historic Landmark ham’s history and the technology that and other native Alabama wildlife. The The church is the site of the most horrific drove America’s rise to world industrial visitor center is open Tuesday – Saturday, occurrence of the American Civil Rights dominance. Sloss is the only 20th century 9am – 5pm; Sunday, 1pm – 5pm. Hiking Movement, when a bomb shattered the blast furnace in the country that is being trails also open daily, dawn to dusk. Do- quiet of a Sunday morning and took the preserved as a museum. It is rumored that nations welcome. 1214 81st Street South. lives of four young girls in September 1963. Sloss is haunted by Theopholus Calvin 205.833.8264. www.ruffnermountain.org If any good came of the bombing, it was Jowers, who died in the Alice Furnace and 20 EXCURSIONS
attractions Talladega Superspeedway swore as long as there was a furnace in Talladega Superspeedway tools, clothing, jewelry, knives, furniture Jefferson County, he would be there. Sloss Talladega Superspeedway is the biggest, and other treasures. Admission charged. also plays host to a number of local events fastest, most competitive motorsports facil- 12632 Confederate Parkway, 205.477.5711, throughout the year. Tuesday-Saturday ity in the world. Records for both speed and www.tannehill.org 10 am-4 pm, Sunday noon-4 pm. 20 32nd competition have been established at Talla- Street North, 205.324.1911, dega. Two major races during the year draw Vulcan Park and Museum www.slossfurnaces.com thousands of fans from across the country for See Sidebar Page 18. 1701 Valley View Drive, the heart-thumping action. The Internation- 205.933.1409, www.vulcanpark.org Southern Museum of Flight/ al Motorsports Hall of Fame and Museum Alabama Aviation Hall of Fame is adjacent. Admission charged. 3366 Speed- Wildlife Center at Explore the miracle of flight. Take off to way Boulevard, 256.362.2261, Oak Mountain State Park the Southern Museum of Flight where www.talladegasuperspeedway.com Located in Oak Mountain State Park, the visitors can view eight decades of avia- center is Alabama’s oldest and largest wild- tion history through aircraft, models and Tannehill Ironworks life rehabilitation center. The center is open memorabilia of some of the country’s great- Historical State Park to the public for self-guided tours and fea- est aviation pioneers. The new Tuskegee At Tannehill Historical State Park, the old tures the Treetop Nature Trail. A beautiful, Photo: Getty images Airman exhibit is a must see for all fans. ironworks and a large collection of 19th elevated walkway in the woods, the trail of- Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9:30 am-4:30 century cabins give visitors a glimpse into fers close-up views of non-releasable hawks pm. Admission charged. life in the 1800s. The third weekend of each and owls in natural habitat enclosures built 4343 73rd Street North, 205.833.8226, month (March-November), shoppers and among the trees. Oak Mountain State Park, www.southernmuseumofflight.org swappers come to Trade Days in search of 205.663.7930, www.awrc.org ❖ EXCURSIONS 21
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