Europe's best co-ops Many hands make light work, and in the case of wine co-operatives it also makes practical and financial sense, enabling ...
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Europe’s
best co-ops
Many hands make light work, and in the case of wine co-operatives it also makes
practical and financial sense, enabling members to produce good-quality and
good-value wines. Christelle Guibert looks at the concept of the co-op before
our regional experts pick their top wines from France, Italy and Spain
Imagine that you’ve inherited half a collective investment, which in many areas
hectare of village-level vines in a classic region often attracts government subsidy, resulting in
renowned for its affordable wines. Let’s say better equipment and facilities as well as the
you’re in Mâcon, or Trentino, or Valencia. expertise of a professional winemaking team
While you may be keen to continue the family supported by specialist viticulturists. The
legacy, you already have a full-time job and co-operative is also often the ideal forum in
lack the time and inclination to produce, which to share the opinions and expertise of
bottle and market your own wine. Joining the its members, a continual improvement in
local winemaking co-operative is an attractive quality being the collective goal.
and practical solution, and many vineyard When we think of co-ops, though, we
owners have gone down that route. shouldn’t always imagine big and unbranded.
Today, co-ops are responsible for a large True, many supermarkets’ own labels are
proportion of the total wine production in supplied by co-operatives, but some hugely
most of the classic European wine regions. It’s popular brands are co-ops in disguise –
hard to put an exact figure on their Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte and Vignobles
importance but, according to the Oxford Foncalieu in the Languedoc are examples
Companion to Wine, since 1975 more than half – while Iuli, the Cantina Viticoltori del
of the wine produced in France has come from Monferrato in Piedmont, has just three
Photograph: Morsa Images/Getty Images
co-ops. The figure is even higher for Italy. members working 18 hectares of vines.
While some originated in the 19th century, Preconceptions of quality are equally to be
most were established in the 1930s, with avoided, as wines produced by co-operatives
France’s first cooperative, Vignerons Libres in can offer superb value for money at different
Maraussa in the Hérault department, founded Christelle Guibert is price points – the Mâcon-Villages from Cave
in 1901. Today, by joining forces with Decanter’s tastings de Lugny, for example, or Château Grenouille
neighbouring vineyard holders, growers and director who has from La Chablisienne. On the following pages
regions alike have more chance to make an worked in wine for our experts highlight some of France, Italy and
impact with their wines. It also allows for more than 20 years Spain’s most consistently reliable co-ops. ➢
D E C A N T E R • F e b r u a r y 2 016 | 57
France
James Lawther MW is a
Decanter contributing editor,
the DWWA Regional co-Chair
for Bordeaux and an author,
lecturer and wine guide based
in Bordeaux
Co-ops play a huge role in France’s wine
scene. The figures speak for themselves: 619
co-ops with 85,000 affiliated growers account
for half of the country’s total production Above: the Corbières- the growers guaranteed providing they follow
(excluding the Charente’s Cognac-based based co-op of Cave specifications. The cellars have been extended
industry). Generating an annual turnover of d’Embres-et- and the co-op’s image modernised through
about €6 billion, their social and economic Castelmaure is one of innovative packaging and labelling. The wines
clout is enormous. But the big question is: do the role models in have a kiss of the garrigue, generous fruit and
they produce decent wine? Languedoc-Roussillon refined tannins.
Thirty years ago the answer would have been In the northern Rhône, the Cave de Tain
a resounding ‘no’, but now there are co-ops at Top: half of all Crozes- has been one of the leading producers in the
the cutting edge of French wine production Hermitage production region for some time. Half of all Crozes-
making wines that are clean, compelling and is made by the Cave Hermitage production comes from here, and
representative of origin. They are often good de Tain with 31ha of the 136ha of Hermitage under its
value, too. Investment in modern facilities and control (including the 23ha Gambert de Loche
equipment is part of the answer, but the real estate), this co-op is second only to Chapoutier
go-getters are those coaxing quality fruit from in the production of this prestigious wine.
their growers on a regular basis. A Syrah specialist (although white versions
The Languedoc-Roussillon has always been of Crozes-Hermitage, St-Joseph, St-Péray and
dominated by co-ops (69% of the region’s Hermitage are also produced), Cave de Tain
production), one of the role models being the produces 5.5 million bottles annually. In 2014
Cave d’Embres-et-Castelmaure. In the 1980s it invested €10 million in new vats and grape
a large part of this co-op’s Corbières-based reception equipment. ‘When the grapes are
vineyard was replanted with Syrah and ripe, time is of the essence and we can now
Grenache and the decision taken to soften the harvest in eight days if necessary,’ explains
often muscular tannins of Carignan using general manager Xavier Gomart. The
carbonic maceration. ‘We’ve advanced step by individual selections have greater depth and
step, with quality the overriding objective,’ character, but throughout the range the fruit,
says Bernard Pueyo, manager and winemaker freshness and spice of Syrah is prevalent.
at Castelmaure since 1983. Further west in Bordeaux, the Union de
These days the 400 hectares that annually Producteurs de St-Emilion, founded in 1931,
produce two million bottles are managed on a is the oldest co-op in the Gironde but took a
plot-by-plot basis. A series of special selections serious plunge into the modern era in the new
has been introduced with remuneration for millennium. A gravity-fed winery complete
58 | F e b r u a r y 2 016 • D E C A N T E R
co-ops
Lawther’s eight to try: French co-ops
Mailly Grand Cru, Blanc de Astrum Wine, Cambridge Wine Merchants, £21.90 (2011) Bottle Bank, D Byrne & Co
Noirs, Champagne NV Hercules Wine Warehouse, The Vintner Firm, dark and fresh with spicy fruit and
90/100 Floral, acacia bouquet with citrus notes. a hint of vanilla oak. Finishes young and
£40 Marks & Spencer Pure, ripe and fruity with a refreshing zip tannic, so needs food. 2016-2021 Alc 13%
100% Pinot Noir. Rich and of acidity. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 12.5%
biscuity on the nose, then the Cave d’Embres-et-
palate is full, round and Cave de Tain, Gambert de Loche, Castelmaure, La Pompadour,
structured with a note of Hermitage, Rhône 2013 91 Corbières Languedoc-
brioche. This is a full- £54.99 (2009) All About Wine, Jolly Vintner Roussillon 2013 86
flavoured, harmonious and Powerful and brooding. Restrained nose £9.50-£14.20 Bottle Bank,
effervescent Champagne. with hidden depth and complexity. Invinity, Vinatis, Vinoa
Drink 2016 Alc 12% Chocolate, spice and dark fruit nuance Hearty and generous with
on the full and dense palate. Solid tannic plum and dark cherry notes
La Chablisienne, Côte de frame. A wine to age. Drink 2019-2030 and the laurel and thyme
Léchet 1er Cru, Chablis Alc 13.5% nuance of the south. Grippy
Burgundy 2012 89 finish. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14%
£20.27 Astrum Wine, Christopher Cave d’Embres-et-Castelmaure, No3
Keiller, Vinatis de Castelmaure, Corbières, Union de Producteurs de St-Emilion,
Subtle bouquet with mineral Languedoc-Roussillon 2013 90 Waitrose, St-Emilion, Bordeaux 2014
and citrus notes. Clean, long £19 (2012) The Wine Society 86
and structured. Elegant Classy Syrah-Carignan-Grenache blend. £13.49 Waitrose
weight and style. Drink Melds intensity of flavour with quality Fresh and fruity with blueberry and
2016-2022 Alcohol 13% texture and tannins. Lovely balance for a cherry notes. Medium-bodied. Light,
big wine. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14.5% fine tannins. Dry finish. Very drinkable.
La Chablisienne, La Pierrelée, Chablis, Drink 2016 Alc 12.5%
Burgundy 2013 87 Cave de Tain, Esprit de Granit,
£13.50-£14.99 (2012) Addison Wines, St-Joseph, Rhône 2013 88 For full details of UK stockists, see p89
with 141 stainless steel vats co-op, the success of La Left: the busy bottling
was constructed, along with Chablisienne resides in the line at the Union de
a cellar that holds 5,300 quality of fruit. ‘There’s Producteurs de
barrels. In the vineyard, the nothing particularly special St-Emilion
150 members are now about the winemaking –
assessed with respect to most of the ageing is done in
yields and other criteria and tank – but we work closely
remunerated accordingly. with our 225 members to
Twenty years ago the produce the best grapes
Union sold half its production possible,’ says general
in bulk, but now everything manager Damien Leclerc.
is sold in bottle. St-Emilion The wines have attractive
grand cru and St-Emilion fruit and finesse as well as
wines provide the lion’s the tension and minerality
share, but generic Bordeaux, associated with Chablis.
Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux Champagne has 138
and St-Emilion satellites are also produced. co-ops and one of the smallest is Mailly Grand
Photograph: Jean-Bernard Nadeau/Cephas
As well as the Union’s flagship brands, Royal Cru with 80 growers, 73ha and a yearly
St-Emilion and Aurelius, and own-label production of 450,000-500,000 bottles. The
supermarket brands, there are 50 château wines are produced exclusively from grapes
labels that are vinified separately. The style of grown in the grand cru village of Mailly with
the wines is classic St-Emilion, apart from the Pinot Noir (which represents 75% of
more obviously modern Aurelius. production) the speciality. Ten different
Moving into Burgundy, La Chablisienne Champagnes are made, the non-vintage Brut
produces nine million bottles annually from Réserve representing two-thirds of production.
1,280ha. This represents 25% of the total All are rich and full in style but exude
production of Chablis. Another benchmark harmony and balance. ➢
D E C A N T E R • F e b r u a r y 2 016 | 59
Italy
Ian D’Agata is a DWWA
Regional co-Chair for Italy,
scientific advisor to Vinitaly
International and award-
winning author of The Native
Wine Grapes of Italy
Italy is the world’s largest wine producer (it
vies for first or second position with France on
a yearly basis) and so inevitably co-ops play a
huge role in the country’s wine economy.
Of Italy’s 122 largest wine producers with
annual revenues in excess of €25 million, 41 all the cheap plonk
are co-ops. Four of these are in the top 10, and and tried a slightly
Cantine Riunite in Campegine (near Reggio more expensive
Emilia) is numero uno, with an annual income Pinot Grigio such as
in 2014 of €536m. Tramin’s.
The majority of Italy’s many co-ops produce Cantina Terlan
large volumes of decently made if not especially (143 members,
exciting wines, but are remarkably successful, 165ha, 1.4 million
reporting a 7% increase in annual income in bottles a year)
2014 (as opposed to only 6% for wine estates) makes Italy’s
– a noteworthy improvement on their 3.8% longest-lived white
annual average for the previous decade. In wines (many from
addition, co-ops posted a lofty 11% increase in the 1960s are
export sales. splendid), and easily
So which are Italy’s best or most exciting Above: Alto Adige’s Italy’s best Pinot Bianco. Additionally, its
co-ops? The good news is that there are almost Cantina Terlan and the Porphyr Lagrein Riserva and Quarz Sauvignon
too many to count (that said, it’s only fair to 380ha of vineyards Blanc are also among Italy’s top two or three
admit there are remarkably bad ones, and farmed by St Michael- wines made with those varieties. Cantina St
rather well-known ones among them). Eppan’s 350 members Michael-Eppan (350 members, 380ha, 2.2
If Piedmont’s Produttori del Barbaresco (top) make some of million bottles a year) is famous for its top
(52 members, 110ha and 480,000 bottles a Italy’s best white Sanct Valentin bottlings, the Sauvignon of
year) isn’t Italy’s best co-op, then it’s certainly varietal wines which has long been viewed by Italian wine
the best at making red wines. Indeed, lovers as Italy’s best wine from that variety.
Barbarescos this good are hard to come by Cellarmaster Hans Terzer deserves credit not
even at family-run estates. General director just for producing exceptionally high-quality
Aldo Vacca is a walking encyclopedia on wines in relatively large volumes, but also for
Nebbiolo and Barbaresco, and he produces not being the spiritual leader of a new generation
just a delicious and very fairly priced entry- of young and talented winemakers for whom
level Barbaresco, but a bevy of Barbaresco crus he sets an example. Last but not least in Alto
that rank with the best wines in Italy. Adige, Kellerei Nals Margreid and Cantina
It is generally accepted that Italy’s best Valle Isarco also produce a host of unbeatable
co-operatives are Alto Adige’s, just south of the wines when it comes to price for quality.
border with Austria. Is anyone making better Still in Italy’s north, in the Valle d’Aosta on
white wines in Italy than Alto Adige’s Cantina the border with France, is another of Italy’s
Tramin? Perhaps only another Alto Adige truly great wine producers, Cave Mont Blanc
co-op, Terlan; and many would argue that de Morgex et de La Salle (80 members, 14ha,
St Michael-Eppan is at the same quality level. 140,000 bottles a year). It is responsible for
The Nussbaumer from Cantina Tramin (290 most of the winemaking in the northern third
members, 235ha, 1.5 million bottles a year) is of the region (the Alta Valle), producing a
Italy’s best Gewurztraminer, and its Unterebner series of magnificent still and sparkling white
is one of the country’s three best oaked Pinot wines – both by the tank and the traditional
Grigios – a clear-cut example of just how noble method – from the local white Prié grape. The
a wine Pinot Grigio can be. If only importers co-op also deserves credit for its innovation
and wine lovers outside Italy stopped buying and research: thanks to president Mauro
6 0 | F e b r u a r y 2 016 • D E C A N T E R
co-ops
D’Agata’s eight to try:
Italian co-ops
Cantina Terlan, Quarz Cantina Gallura, Canayli
Sauvignon Blanc, Alto Vermentino di Gallura Superiore,
Adige 2013 93/100 Sardinia 2014 90
£39-£46 AG Wines, £22 Exel
Astrum Wine, Farr Fresh and citrussy, with a delicate
Vintners, Highbury herbal twist and noteworthy saline
Vintners, Woodwinters and balsamic strokes on the long,
Deep, pure and zippy finish. Drink 2016-2018
concentrated – a rare Alc 13.5%
example of oaked
Sauvignon that is more Cantina Santadi, Terre
than the sum of its parts. Superb. Brune, Carignano del
Drink 2016-2025 Alcohol 14% Sulcis Superiore,
Sardinia 2010 93
Cantina Tramin, Nussbaumer £38-£42 AG Wines, Eclectic
Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige 2013 Tastes, Exel, Great Western
93 Wine, Hedonism, Slurp
£24.50-£32 Corking Wines, Dense, rich and suave,
Drinkmonger, The Drink Shop with polished, chocolatey
Rich, deep and complex. A Gewurz plum and smoky dark
that can stand up to the best from berry aromas and
Alsace, but in a much drier style. flavours. A real beauty.
Drink 2016-2023 Alc 14% Drink 2016-2026 Alc 14%
Cantina St Michael- Produttori del Barbaresco,
Above: the riddling racks for the traditional- Eppan, Sanct Valentin Montestefano Riserva,
method sparklling wines made at Cave Mont Blanc Sauvignon, Alto Adige Barbaresco, Piedmont 2008 93
de Morgex et de La Salle in Valle d’Aosta 2013 92 £39 Astrum Wine
£25-£31 Christopher Keiller, Notes of rose petals with sour red
Jacod, technical director Nicola Del Negro, and Eurowines, Ministry of Drinks cherry and sweet spices on this
in association with Dr Provino Lale Demoz of Sage, yellow melon and high-acid, classically styled and
the Institut Agricole Régional, a wine is now green fig notes – rich and ageworthy Barbaresco. Very fine.
also made from a rare and mostly forgotten suave. A serious Drink 2016-2035 Alc 14%
local red variety called Roussin de Morgex. It’s Sauvignon, between the
a delicious red bubbly that spends about 18 oakiness of Pouilly-Fumé ArPePe, Valtellina,
months on its lees. and the grassiness of New Zealand. Lombardy 2013 91
Clearly, not all of Italy’s great wine co-ops Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14% £40 Noble Fine Liquor
are located in the north. Sardinia’s Cantina 100% Nebbiolo. Dense
Santadi produces about 1.7 million bottles a Cave Mont Blanc de Morgex et de and precise aromas and
year, and among those are two of Italy’s top La Salle, Rayon, Valle d’Aosta flavours of red cherry,
100 red wines: the magnificent Terre Brune, a 2013 91 mountain herbs and
Carignano del Sulcis Superiore; and Rocca £22 Exel liquorice. Mouthwatering
Rubia, a Carignano del Sulcis Riserva. Now Made from the local Prié grape. acidity keeps your palate
that Carignan is suddenly becoming Bright, juicy and floral, with yellow interested. Drink
fashionable, it is only fair to point out that for apple and lime flavours that last and 2016-2021 Alc 14%
decades it was this co-operative that showed last. Hard to put the glass down!
the world (certainly France and Spain) just Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5% For full UK stockist details, see p89
how noble this variety can be. Founded in
1960, Santadi boasts more than 200 members
who farm more than 600ha of prime vineyard
land on the island. Emilia Romagna’s standout Lambrusco wine
In fact, there are many other Italian co-ops producers Cavicchioli and Chiarli 1860, and
worthy of an honourable mention: Lombardy’s Sardinia’s Cantina di Mogoro, Cantina
ArPePe, Abruzzo’s Cantina Tollo (which has Gallura and Cantina del Vermentino-Monti
almost single-handedly has kept the families immediately spring to mind. Seek them out –
of the Chieti province afloat over the years), their wines will surprise you. ➢
D E C A N T E R • F e b r u a r y 2 016 | 61
Spain
Sarah Jane Evans MW is a
DWWA Regional co-Chair for
Spain. In 2010 she was made a
member of the Gran Orden de
Caballeros de Vino for services
to Spanish wine
Spain is still overrun with small co-ops.
Often named after the Virgin Mary or Jesus
Christ, they had – and many retain – a
powerful social function in supporting the Underlying the bulk
community. For some, the integration with the production is a vision.
outside world remains slow. Others have Bodegas Patrocinio,
specialised, and focused on wine. formed in Rioja Alta in
These can be hard to spot, as they often 1985, notes: ‘We have a
hide behind brands. Few would recognise huge responsibility to
Cevipe in Penedès, although it’s a very our families, our town,
significant supplier of base wine to producers Rioja, and Spanish
of cava. Furthermore, if you have ever enjoyed wine in general.
a very low-priced Garnacha, then it’s more Co-operativism has
than likely to have come from a co-op. Great- been crucial for the
value Garnacha and Monastrell is something survival of many
that the co-ops have done very well. What they small-scale grape
have been less good at is offering ‘aspirational’ growers – the incentive
wines – ones that can be sold at a higher price of individual interest is
and create more value for their members. Above: harvesting replaced by collective effort and compensation.’
This is not entirely surprising, for in Godello grapes at Its UK importer gave its wine the name Dos
contrast to France and Italy, Spain’s co-ops are Martín Códax in Galicia Cientos (200) to symbolise the co-op’s 200
still in transition; the country only joined the growers with their 525ha of vineyards.
European Union in 1986. Nevertheless, progress Top: in Rioja, Bodegas Certainly it is in marketing that many of
has been made. Take Bodegas del Rosario. Patrocinio has 525ha of the co-ops fall down, not yet able to build
Accounting for some 85% of the Bullas DO vineyards farmed by profiles for themselves and invest in export.
production, it had little incentive to change. 200 growers Bodegas Borsao in Campo de Borja is a good
Yet it is choosing to focus on building identity example of early success in brand building.
in what has been an overlooked region. Representing almost a third of the DO, the 650
Co-ops are supposed to be all about (large) members with 2,500ha of vineyards have a
size, and few can be larger than Anecoop. This strong emphasis on Garnacha – it’s almost
multi-faceted Valencian business is said to be two-thirds of production.
the largest seller of oranges in the world. While Catalonia retains many smaller co-ops that
wine is a mere 6% of its business, it adds up to were an essential support to villages during
a substantial number. Winemaker Norrel the hard aftermath of the Spanish Civil War.
Robertson MW, who works with co-ops across Today they represent Catalan dynamism.
Spain, notes two of Anecoop’s specific quality Celler de Capçanes in Montsant was one of
projects: its work with the co-op in San Martín the early co-ops to show entrepreneurial skill.
de Unx in Navarra, and its ‘exciting’ winery La Its diversification began when it was
Viña, in Font de la Figuera, Valencia, working approached by the Jewish community in
with old-vine Monastrell and Alicante Bouschet. Barcelona to make a kosher wine. Primavera,
Covinca in the Cariñena DO, founded in the wine created, is a classic brand today, and
1987 with a production today of seven million there are now six wines in the kosher portfolio.
bottles, is another co-op that is better known Around this is an extensive collection of
among consumers by its brands than its own wines, produced by the 150 members. Today
name. Its Extra Special Old Vine Garnacha (£5) they reflect their origins, offering fascinating
made for Asda is a typical example of keenly terroir choices such as a range of contrasting
priced private label. Garnachas grown on different soils.
Another co-op led by a team with vision is
Right: Asda’s Extra Special Old Vine Garnacha, one with surely the best site in Spain: Martín
made by the Covinca co-op in Cariñena Códax in Galicia. On a hill above the Salnés
62 | F e b r u a r y 2 016 • D E C A N T E R
co-ops
Old, dry-farmed Garnacha
vines farmed by Celler de
Capçanes in Montsant
Evans’ eight to try: Spanish co-ops
Agrícola Castellana, Cuatro its honeyed, citrus complexity, with leesy, Society is £5.50, but this Selección
Rayas Viñedos Centenarios creamy overtones. Drink 2016 Alc 13% Especial, using a little new oak, shows
Verdejo, Rueda 2014 91/100 just how well they can step up. Typical
£8.29-£8.50 All About Wine, Celler de Capçanes, Cabrida Garnatxa good value from a Spanish co-op. Drink
Drinkmonger, ThirtyFifty Vinyes Velles, Montsant 2010 91 2016-2017 Alc 15%
A co-op showcasing its finest in £23-£35 Berry Bros & Rudd, Connolly’s,
100% old-vine Verdejo. All the HarperWells Bodegas Borsao, Tres Picos
concentration of lime acidity A Montsant co-op doing what Montsant Garnacha, Campo de Borja
with the keynote edge of does best: centenary Garnacha. Named 2013 86
Verdejo bitterness and a slight after the mountain goat (cabrida), this is £12.59-£15 Bentley’s, Cheers,
spice of crystallised ginger. an exceptional Garnacha reflecting all of D Byrne & Co, Fareham, Highbury
Drink 2016-2017 Alcohol 13% Montsant’s wildness. A blend of sour Vintners, Noel Young, Rannoch
cherry and plum with a firm grip of Scott, St Andrews Wine Co
Bodegas del Rosario, Niño de las Uvas tannin. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 15% Garnacha, the traditional
Macabeo-Malvasia, Bullas 2014 88 engine of the co-ops, is now
£12 Laithwaites Bodegas San Martín, Señorio de Unx the height of fashion. Borsao
Macabeo (Viura) with aromatic Malvasia. Garnacha, Navarra 2011 88 was a pioneering exporter and
Rich, creamy palate with delicate smoky £8.99 Virgin Wines Tres Picos its leading wine. Others may
notes from fermentation in French oak, Navarra still has some lovely old-vine have surpassed it, but it’s still a modern
balancing an overlay of white flowers. Garnacha in addition to the usual range classic. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 14.5%
Delightfully fresh from fruit grown at of international varieties. This has dense
higher altitudes. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 14% blueberry and bramble fruit. Bodegas Patrocinio, Finca Dos
Drink 2016-2018 Alc 14% Cientos, Rioja 2012 86
Bodegas Martín Códax, Mara Martín £11.99 10International, The Market Square
Godello, Monterrei 2013 88 Bodegas Virgen de la Sierra, Tempranillo from Rioja Alta, rounded out
£9-£11 Bay Tree Wine, Carruthers & Kent, North Cruz de Piedra Selección with Garnacha and given a liquorice and
& South, Reserve Wine, The Good Wine Shop, Especial Garnacha, citrus lift by Graciano. The blend of
The Secret Cellar, Vino Wines, Woodwinters Calatayud 2013 88 American and French oak gives a classic
Albariño is Codax’s business, and visitors £8.25 The Wine Society smoke and vanilla note and grip of chalky
to the co-op can taste through every The oldest vineyards in the arid tannins. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13.5%
style. Mara Martín is a fine contrast: from soils of Calatayud. The co-op’s
warmer inland Monterrei, Godello shows basic Garnacha at The Wine For full details of UK stockists, see p89
Valley, the winery overlooks the mussel beds million-bottle business that accounts for 20%
in the bay. Like a number of successful co-ops, of Rueda’s total production. It manages
it was founded in the mid-1980s. Today it has 2,150ha of vineyard belonging to 400 growers
270 members, and takes in grapes from and has been a leader in technology, and in
another 300 families, altogether an impressive international wine-quality certification.
management exercise. The next decade poses many questions for
Another significant white wine co-op is the Spain. Is the super-efficient winery the only
Rueda’s largest producer: Agrícola Castellana. model? Can smaller co-ops keep afloat? And
From a small base in 1935 it has grown to a 15 who defends their members’ interests best? D
D E C A N T E R • F e b r u a r y 2 016 | 6 3
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