Eduardo Chadwick - Susie & Peter
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DECANTER MAN OF THE YEAR DECANTER MAN OF THE YEAR
Decanter Man of the Year 2018
Eduardo Chadwick
His pioneering vision and sheer determination have helped to
propel Chilean fine wine onto a global stage. Peter Richards MW
meets the widely respected winemaker, family man and
adventurer who describes himself as ‘a survivor’ ➢
38 | A p r i l 2 018 • D E C A N T E R D E C A N T E R • A p r i l 2 018 | 39
DECANTER MAN OF THE YEAR
IT WAS THE final ascent. The peak of Ojos del a blind tasting with trade professionals chaired
Salado, the highest active volcano in the world, by Steven Spurrier, who had himself upset the Eduardo
was within touching distance. But then
disaster struck: Eduardo Chadwick, precarious
established wine world order at his famous
Judgement of Paris tasting in 1976, when
Chadwick
on the ladder, suddenly got cramp. ‘My biggest Californian wines usurped French classics. at a glance
worry,’ he recounts, smiling broadly, ‘was that Born March 1959
the bottle of Seña I had with me to unveil at World class Education 1976-
the summit was in my breast pocket – so if I Famously, in Berlin Chadwick’s wines 1981, Universidad
fell, there was a very real chance it would be prevailed, rated in the two top spots. He went Católica (industrial
driven through my heart.’ on to repeat the exercise 21 times, reaching engineering)
The story reveals much about Chadwick. 1,400 wine professionals in 17 countries, and Family Married to
There’s the driven, ambitious, relentless, achieving an admirable consistency of results María Eugenia Braun.
Photographs: Thomas Skovsende (previous page); R & K Muschenetz/Cephas
single-minded, talented mountaineer in him. for his wines. This was followed by a series of Four daughters: María
Also the savvy marketeer and businessman: 10 further blind tastings, dubbed the ‘Seña Eugenia, Magdalena,
teller of stories, creator of positive verticals’, focusing on ageing potential by María José, Alejandra
opportunities, irrepressible. Finally, there’s assessing past rather than current vintages. Main brands
the man: courteous, with a ready smile, a The results delivered a similarly consistent Errázuriz, Seña,
healthy sense of humour and humanity, aware vindication of Chadwick’s message, with a Viñedo Chadwick,
of his frailties yet resolute not to let them limit Seña wine ranked top on every occasion. Don Maximiano, Kai,
or define him. ‘It’s a question of persistence,’ ‘We never expected these results, nor their La Cumbre, Las
he says, softly. ‘I’m a survivor.’ consistency,’ admits Chadwick. ‘The Berlin Pizarras, Caliterra,
Eduardo Chadwick is a man on a mission. Tasting was born of frustration that Chile Arboleda
His self-appointed task? To prove that Chile wasn’t getting the critical attention or ratings Hobbies
produces fine wines to rival the best in the it deserved. It was about justice. But we gained Tennis, swimming,
world – and has the potential for more to confidence from this and saw it finally mountain climbing
come. Nowhere was this captured better than converting into critical recognition, for us Likes to say ‘Finesse
at what has become known as the Berlin and for Chile.’ and elegance’
Tasting of 2004, when Chadwick (‘scared to This is a crucial point. The Berlin and Seña
death’) pitted his top Cabernets against the tastings did not just raise the profile of
global elite (Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Solaia) in Chadwick’s own wines (his main brand is ➢
Below: the Viña Errázuriz
vineyards and winery in
the Aconcagua Valley
D E C A N T E R • A p r i l 2 018 | 41
DECANTER MAN OF THE YEAR DECANTER MAN OF THE YEAR
Decanter Hall of Change of direction
Fame: past recipients
It could have played out very differently.
Chadwick initially trained as an engineer and,
2017 Steven Spurrier, England after university, was working in Saudi Arabia
2016 Denis Dubourdieu, France – the world of wine a distant reality. But the
2015 Alvaro Palacios, Spain critical juncture in Chadwick’s life came in
2014 Jean-Pierre & François Perrin, Rhône 1983 when his father Alfonso, a talented polo
2013 Gerard Basset OBE MW MS, England player whose business interests included
2012 Paul Symington, Portugal wine-growing, seized an opportunity to buy
2011 Giacomo Tachis, Italy back what had once been the family winery,
2010 Aubert de Villaine, Burgundy Viña Errázuriz. (The family had lost control of
2009 Nicolás Catena, Argentina the estate in the mid-20th century and the
2008 Christian Moueix, Bordeaux country’s attempts at land reform had left it
2007 Anthony Barton, Bordeaux effectively ruined.)
2006 Marcel Guigal, Rhône On accepting his father’s invitation to
2005 Ernst Loosen, Mosel revive Viña Errázuriz, Chadwick set about
2004 Brian Croser, Adelaide Hills re-establishing what had once been a proud
2003 Jean-Michel Cazes, Bordeaux brand begun by his ancestor Maximiano
2002 Miguel Torres, Penedès Errázuriz in 1870. ‘I’d done odd jobs in my
2001 Jean-Claude Rouzaud, Champagne father’s vineyards,’ he remembers, ‘so I had a
2000 Paul Draper, California little knowledge, but not much. At that time,
1999 Jancis Robinson OBE MW, London ‘The Berlin Tasting was born of frustration there was no culture of fine wine in Chile; it
1998 Angelo Gaja, Piedmont was all very basic.’ What was needed was
1997 Len Evans OBE AO, Australia that Chile wasn’t getting the critical investment and ambition – both personal and Above: Eduardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi, ‘We needed
1996 Georg Riedel, Austria financial. Aided by the family’s wider business who collaborated on the Seña joint venture
1995 Hugh Johnson OBE, London attention or ratings it deserved’ interests in malting, brewing, soft drinks and to raise the
1994 May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, Bordeaux distribution – responsibilities he continues Hatch Mansfield agencies in the UK (see
1993 Michael Broadbent MW, London juggling to this day – Chadwick took to the timeline, below). reputation of
1992 André Tchelistcheff, California Errazuriz but Seña, Viñedo Chadwick and Don Above: the Berlin task with gusto.
1991 José Ignacio Domecq, Jerez Maximiano are his top Cabernets). They have Tasting of 2004 with As well as renewing winemaking equipment Positive influence Chile and put
1990 Professor Emile Peynaud, Bordeaux also, by extension, provided validation for Chile Eduardo Chadwick and expanding the vineyards, Chadwick took A fateful moment in Chadwick’s career came in
1989 Robert Mondavi, California as a whole. When I asked Chadwick what this (centre) and Steven time to visit Bordeaux and Burgundy, meeting 1991 when he volunteered to chauffeur Robert our wine on
1988 Max Schubert, Australia Decanter award meant to him, he said: ‘More Spurrier (right) the likes of Emile Peynaud, Denis Dubourdieu and Margrit Mondavi, fresh from a fishing
1987 Alexis Lichine, Bordeaux than for us, this award is for Chile. It’s recognition and Paul Pontallier along the way. On return, holiday in the south, around Chilean wine the map as a
1986 Marchese Piero Antinori, Tuscany that Chile has entered the realms of fine wine. he began laying the foundations necessary for country. ‘At the time, the Mondavi operation
1985 Laura & Corinne Mentzelopoulos, Previous recipients – Mondavi, Antinori, fine wine at Errázuriz: re-launching Don was twice the size of the entire Chilean wine luxury item’
Bordeaux Torres – have helped prove their countries are Maximiano as ‘an icon red for the modern era’, industry and our average export price was
1984 Serge Hochar, Lebanon part of this world-class family of wine terroirs. planting his father’s polo field in Puente Alto US$10-$12 per case,’ recalls Chadwick. ‘At the
That’s what I have been trying to do.’ ➢ to become Viñedo Chadwick, and establishing end of the trip, Bob said, “There’s great ➢
Timeline of major achievement
1870 1994 1999
Maximiano Errázuriz 1985 1991 UK agency Hatch Viña Errázuriz
founds his eponymous Travels to Meets Robert Mansfield acquired by becomes Principal
winery in Aconcagua Bordeaux and Mondavi Viña Errázuriz, Louis Supporter of Institute
Burgundy in Chile Jadot and Villa Maria of Masters of Wine
1983 1987 2002
Family takes back control Marries María Summits Mount Aconcagua,
of Viña Errázuriz; Eugenia 1992 1995 1998 the highest peak outside
Eduardo Chadwick joins Plants his father’s polo Joint venture with New dedicated Asia, brandishing a
field in Puente Alto to Robert Mondavi vineyard for Seña bottle of Don Maximiano
form Viñedo Chadwick to create Seña planted in Ocoa Founder’s Reserve ➢
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DECANTER MAN OF THE YEAR
‘More than for us, this award
is for Chile. It’s recognition
that Chile has entered the
realms of fine wine’
terroir and potential in Chile.” He was in his
80s, already an iconic figure, I was early-30s.
We did talk about doing something together,
but it seemed a distant dream.’
Nonetheless, the dream became reality in
1995 when Errázuriz and Mondavi created a
ground-breaking joint venture encompassing
the Caliterra brand and creating a new icon
wine: Seña. Chadwick was profoundly aware of
how Mondavi’s own joint venture with Baron
Philippe de Rothschild, Opus One, had raised
the profile of California’s Napa Valley – and
hoped his own association would do the same
for Chile, whose fine-wine credentials were
proving harder to assert than he’d envisaged.
In 1998, a dedicated vineyard for Seña was
developed in Ocoa, Aconcagua, which was
subsequently converted to biodynamic
cultivation under the late Alan York’s guidance
from 2005.
Ambitious plans
Although Mondavi’s involvement came to an
end in 2004 following Bob Mondavi’s death
Photograph: Thomas Skovsende
and the firm’s takeover by Constellation,
Chadwick sees the positives. ‘I see Bob as a
mentor: he opened my eyes to how to do Above: Eduardo Chadwick
things. We were too humble and closed in has helped to establish
Chile: we needed to get out into the world, to Chile’s reputation as a
raise the reputation of our country and put producer of fine wines
our wine on the map as a luxury item.’ ➢
Timeline of major achievement (continued)
2005 2010
2004 Planting starts in New Don Maximiano
2003 The Berlin Tasting new Aconcagua Costa Icon Winery (below)
Helps re-establish sees Chadwick’s site as Seña vineyard inaugurated on
Wines of Chile’s wines beat the world’s starts conversion Viña Errázuriz’s
UK office finest Cabernets to biodynamics 140th anniversary
2004 2015
Viña Errázuriz assumes Poses at 6,893m
sole control of Seña altitude with a bottle
and Caliterra following of Seña, atop
Mondavi’s takeover Ojos del Salado
by Constellation
4 6 | A p r i l 2 018 • D E C A N T E R
DECANTER MAN OF THE YEAR
Getting out into the world has been we’re not more united. Bob [Mondavi] never
Chadwick’s mission since. And yet this is not to kept secrets, always shared his knowledge.
gloss over significant investment and This is still work in progress.’
achievements at home. Viña Errázuriz has For Chadwick, despite the increasingly
been at the forefront of many positive trends prominent accolades, the mission is far from
in Chile, such as the development of Syrah and accomplished. ‘There’s lots of work to do: more
Sangiovese, hillside plantings, drip irrigation, miles, more education. We’re not there yet – I
biodynamics and wild ferments. Talented was in China recently and no one in the room
chief winemaker Francisco Baettig, a had visited Chile. It’s still early days: this is just
renowned Francophile, has long upheld the the beginning.’ It’s telling he mentions China,
value of travel and wide tasting to improve as Asia is central to Chadwick’s plan of
winemaking. Most recently, the development welcome. Just one (CVBG, run by Mathieu Above: Las Pizarras developing Chile’s fine wine future.
of the Aconcagua Costa vineyard on the basis Chadronnier) took a risk. These days, sales are Chardonnay and Pinot The final words go to Patrick McGrath MW,
of detailed terroir analysis has given rise to brisk across 15 négociants. Noir are ‘two of Chile’s the MD of Hatch Mansfield and fellow
two of Chile’s most exciting, elegant and As for regrets, Chadwick is frank. On a most exciting wines of mountaineer. ‘At the top of the mountain,
nuanced wines of the modern era: Las Pizarras personal note, he says: ‘I regret taking life too the modern era’ Eduardo just keeps going, never losing his
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. seriously at times, not enjoying the journey sense of humour. He has helped change the
And there have been challenges. Chadwick and time with my family as much as I might perception and future of Chile. Those who will
has felt many personal losses, including that of have.’ To this, he adds not becoming a Master really see the results of his hard work are his
his father, brother and two infant children. of Wine (Chadwick came close to becoming daughters – and his country.’ D
Professional too: Chadwick relates how finding Chile’s first MW while living in the UK but had
a foothold among the Bordeaux négociants to abandon the course to return home). On a Peter Richards MW is an award-wining writer,
proved challenging at a time when non- professional note: ‘I regret that as a nation we author, consultant and broadcaster on wine,
Bordeaux wines were not particularly didn’t focus on fine wines earlier, and that and the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile
Tributes to Eduardo Chadwick
‘In 2003 Chadwick’s belated wines of the Old World, but ‘I have known ‘Eduardo pioneer of iconic wines that
and 2004 anointment as Decanter Man he has also inspired a whole Eduardo Chadwick’s often beat the best of
Eduardo was of the Year. On a serious note, generation of Chilean Chadwick for tireless and Bordeaux in blind tastings; in
living in this award is testament to oenologists by making them more than 25 resolute realising the potential of
Oxford, Eduardo’s innovative spirit and conscious of the potential of years and crusade to Aconcagua, which he
studying to his tireless quest for quality, Chile’s great wine terroirs.’ had the champion single-handedly placed on
become a whether at the quintessence Miguel A Torres, 2002 pleasure of his wines the world wine map; by
Master of Wine, and his four of Chile level of Seña, Don Decanter Man of the Year working with him to create and those of Chile on the launching the most minerally
daughters were with him, Maximiano and Viñedo Seña, one of the first wines of international stage has been Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs
attending local schools. In Chadwick or in his unrivalled ‘I first met Eduardo three Chile to be recognised among extremely successful. that may challenge
January 2010 Sebastián portfolio of more affordable, decades ago, in the days the great wines of the world. Through his brilliant work Burgundy… The full list would
Piñera, newly elected deliciously drinkable wines.’ when Chilean wine was hard Eduardo always impressed me Eduardo has demonstrated fill this page. Eduardo is also
President of Chile, invited him Anthony Rose, wine writer to find outside South America with his passion, dedication that he is both a great a talented taster (he passed
to be the Chilean Ambassador and DWWA Regional and almost no one took Chile and sophistication. His visionary, a superb innovator the practical component of
to the United Kingdom. Co-chair for Australia seriously as a source of real commitment to learning, and a fabulous ambassador the Master of Wine exam), an
Eduardo declined this honour, quality. Eduardo’s blind producing and advocating the for the Chilean wine industry; avid sportsman, a wonderful
stating that he did not wish to ‘Over the Berlin Tastings (two of which I great wines of Chile has someone who has inspired friend and true family man.
have his daughters move once years, my have been lucky to have elevated the reality and many. More importantly he is What makes him so
more. He was already and son Miguel participated in ) had a radical awareness of Chilean wine, a great man and a true deserving of being 2018
continues to be the best and I have impact on changing those and led me to think of Eduardo gentleman. Bravo Mr Decanter Man of the Year is
ambassador his country’s always been impressions. But so too have as the Robert Mondavi of Eduardo Chadwick!’ that the admiration he has
wines have ever had.’ impressed his enthusiasm for Carmenère Chile. I applaud Decanter for Gerard Basset OBE MW MS, won for his achievements in
Steven Spurrier, 2107 by the will (almost unknown 30 years their thoughtful selection, and 2013 Decanter Man wine are overshadowed by
Decanter Man of the Year and capacity of Eduardo ago), biodynamic congratulate my good friend of the Year the love and high regard that
Chadwick to raise the quality viticulture, regionality and Eduardo for being recognised his family and friends have
‘Too young, too charming and prestige of Chilean wine. effective super-premium as Decanter Man of the Year.’ ‘Eduardo is a tireless for him.’
and too good-looking are In so doing, Eduardo has not brand-building. Tim Mondavi, partner in ambassador of Chilean wine, Jeannie Cho Lee MW is a
presumably the only three only proved that Chilean Robert Joseph, publisher of Continuum Estate and championing its quality and DWWA judge and Decanter
reasons for Eduardo wines can compete with the www.thewinethinker.com co-creator of Seña leading by example: as the contributing editor for Asia
www.aiola.net
4 8 | A p r i l 2 018 • D E C A N T E R
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