Culinary Trends and Breakthroughs - The Association of ...

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Culinary Trends and Breakthroughs - The Association of ...
by Rocky Dunnam, CEC, CDM, CFPP
                                                                                                                      1 HOUR

                                                                                                                      CE
                                                                                                                      CBDM Approved

           Culinary Trends
           and Breakthroughs
        CULINARY CONNECTION

              WE E X P LO R E A F E W C U RRE NT C U LINARY TRENDS , A N D
               S O ME U N IQ U E P R O D UC TS D ES IGNED FO R E AS E O F USE
                                                                                   AND GREAT RES ULTS.
     Trends and innovative new gadgets often emerge parallel          and in varying climates. This demand caused the French
     to each other. This makes perfect sense when you think           government to offer a hefty prize for any inventor that
     about it, because they create a market and necessity for         could develop such means in an efficient manner. In 1809,
     each other. This concept is really nothing more than basic       Nicolas Appert—a French brewer—noticed that food
     supply and demand. When a culinary trend demands                 cooked inside a jar did not spoil unless the seal of the jar
     certain ingredients, businesses respond by developing            was broken and leaked. His method of preserving in jars
     more efficient, cost-effective ways to supply that demand        is what led to the eventual use of similar preservation
     and the newest innovation emerges. As time passes, these         methods in modern aluminum cans. The issue with cans
     once cutting-edge products become increasingly available         was, and still is, that cans are sealed so well they cannot
     and affordable.                                                  easily be opened by hand, unlike their more crude glass
                                                                      jar counterparts. Thus, the can opener was invented.
     Let’s look at the can opener, for example. In the early
                                                                      Of course the can opener seems far from innovative by
     1800s in France, the Napoleonic Wars demanded that
                                                                      today’s standards, but in 1855—when it was patented—it
     there be a way to preserve food for long periods of time
                                                                      was truly a unique invention. As the can opener became

30    N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017
Culinary Trends and Breakthroughs - The Association of ...
rocky.dunnam@ejbcc.org

more available, it also         Restaurant Troisgros.         the water itself. We know               Rocky Dunnam,
became more affordable.                                       that at 212˚F water boils,              CEC, CDM, CFPP is
                                Like any trend, when
                                                                                                      Executive Chef at
This parallel development       something works well, it      which circulates the water
                                                                                                      the Bivins Founda-
has continued through           becomes very popular.         naturally via the escaping              tion, Childers Place,
the years as more items         Other chefs, and even         air bubble agitation. But               Bivins Memorial
are being canned, and           scientists, began to notice   what if we want to cook                 Nursing Home, Eliz-
companies have developed        this practice and wanted to   in water that’s only 185˚F?             abeth Jane Bivins
better, less expensive can                                    This water will, by nature,             Culinary Center,
                                adopt similar techniques                                              NINETEEN49 Ca-
opener options.                 in their operations.          remain still. There must be
                                                                                                      tering, and Rock’D
                                Before long, widespread       a ‘supply’ to the ‘demand’              Recipes in Amarillo,
So what kind of trends and
                                use of sous-vide cookery      that’s growing in the                   Texas.
innovations are emerging
                                became synonymous with        industry’s establishments
today that can or will follow
                                producing an extremely        that are practicing sous-vide
a similar pattern? Let’s
                                flavorful product with        cookery.
examine three modern
trends and the inventions       minimal moisture loss,        Enter the immersion
that are on a parallel track    allowing for tender           circulator! This invention,
of convenience and novelty.     meats, perfectly cooked       born out of necessity
                                vegetables, etc.              for sous-vide cooking,
SOUS VIDE AND
                                Chefs began to develop        electronically heats and
IMMERSION
                                parameters internally         circulates water for this
C I R C U L AT O R S
                                that, when applied            exact purpose. Early
Sous vide (which means                                        immersion circulators were
                                correctly in terms of time
“under vacuum”) is a                                          bulky and very expensive.
                                and temperature, would
cooking method where                                          These pieces were only
                                deliver consistent results.
food items are packaged                                       feasible for high-end
                                Like many innovations
in plastic bags and vacuum                                    restaurants and high-profit
                                and trends though, early
sealed, and then the sealed                                   manufacturers, and were
                                sous-vide cookery had
package is submerged in                                       simply irrational for use
                                some drawbacks. For
temperature controlled                                        in smaller operations.
                                instance, most restaurants
water to heat evenly. Sous                                    However, as the demand
                                operate gas ranges as the
vide as a food preservation                                   increased, the supply
                                preferred heat source. In
method can be traced                                          companies began to
                                sous vide, it’s important
back to the mid-1960s, but                                    develop better and less
                                to keep the temperature
it had much earlier roots.                                    expensive versions for
                                of the water consistent to
Georges Pralus adopted                                        appropriately sized
                                the parameter of the item
the method in 1974 after                                      operations. Today, an
                                being cooked to result in
experimenting with foie                                       immersion circulator
                                successful preparation.
gras. He noticed that the                                     can be purchased from
                                On a gas range, this can
foie gras maintained its                                      companies like TUCS that
                                prove nearly impossible,
appearance, did not lose                                      develop all-inclusive tanks
                                especially over the
excess amounts of the                                         in the thousands of gallons
                                extended periods of time
precious fats, and had                                        size ($100,000+), all the
                                required. Also, to achieve
better texture. He began                                      way down to the at-home
                                perfect uniformity in the
using the method on
                                cooking, you must circulate
various other products in
                                                              Continued on page 32

                                                                 N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017   31
Culinary Trends and Breakthroughs - The Association of ...
Continued from page 3 1

     versions by companies like        wood offset smoker box
     Anova Culinary ($100) that        versions. This trend has
     have smartphone apps to           diversified many dishes
     control effortlessly. Now         and cuisines across
     the trending sous-vide            America in the past, and is
     preparation methods can be        projected to be even more
     utilized by literally anyone,     creative in 2017.
     thanks to such innovative         One invention that can
     inventions.                       be attributed to this
     SMOKING AND                       widespread popularity
     PRESERVING ARE                    is The Smoking Gun by
     TRENDING                          Polyscience ($99). This
                                       gun is operated much like
     Smoking and preserving,
                                       the large offset wood-
     like sous vide, have become
                                       smoking equipment that
     increasingly popular the
                                       BBQ pitmasters have
     past few years. Unlike sous
                                       used for decades. A small
     vide, these practices have
                                       cage holds wood chips
     been around for centuries.
                                       or shavings. This cage
     The most primitive
                                       is attached to a motor-
     versions of smoking were
                                       operated fan designed
     actually dehydrating via
                                       to pull smoke (when you
     smoke to preserve meats
                                       light the wood with a small
     for long excursions for
                                       lighter or torch) and blow
     nomads in early caveman
                                       it through a directed hose,
     days. More recently we’ve
                                       allowing you to smoke
     begun to use this method
                                       single servings of anything!
     for purpose of flavor
                                       This hand-held smoking
     instead of preservation,
                                       apparatus has inspired
     although it’s still used
                                       trends in preparing
     in specialty charcuterie
                                       unconventional smoked
     for preserved and cured
                                       foods like vegetables,
     meats. This trending style
                                       soups, and garnishes to
     of cookery has also forced
                                       other indulgences like ice
     manufacturing companies
                                       cream and even cocktails.
     to provide innovative
     equipment and tools               The American Culinary
     necessary for execution.          Federation predicts that       IN SOUS VIDE, IT’S
                                       the smoked foods trend
     Smokers (smoking                                                 IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE
                                       will not only continue,
     equipment) can be found
                                       but also evolve drastically    temperature of the water
     in literally hundreds of
                                       through 2017.                  consistent to the parameter of
     varieties—from upright
     electric versions, to water                                      the item being cooked to result in
     smokers that incorporate
                                                                      successful preparation.
     moisture, to more basic

32    N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017
PU R E E S/SAUCE S AN D M O LECU L AR                            fat-based substance, has created a fun and inventive new
GASTRONOMY                                                       trend on menus everywhere. This advance in science has
Another interesting trend on today’s menus is the use of         allowed us all to experience the same transformations in
unconventional items in sauce and/or puree form. For             cuisine that were previously reserved for food scientists
example, one of the hottest fall/winter trends this season       and large corporate manufacturing operations.
is the use of butternut squash and pumpkin puree.                MORE TRENDS, MORE GADGETS
Not that this is “new” or really even that inventive by
                                                                 These examples are merely a few of the many advances
itself, but what chefs are doing with these items is quite
                                                                 in innovative technology that emerge with and around
impressive.
                                                                 the newest budding trends. These are vastly popular
I recently dined at Imperial Taproom in Canyon, Texas,           today and are projected to trend in the next few years
where Chef Ethan Williams produced a version of                  as the availability of product and means become more
butternut squash puree that had notes of chicken stock,          widespread. The more we explore the options that items
and acidic hints of balsamic vinegar (all while maintaining      like the Immersion Circulator, The Smoking Gun, and
a vibrant orange appearance that I’d expect from a               agar-agar give us access to, the more the trends will
butternut squash puree) that he paired with duck. While I        likewise develop. Who knows? Maybe this time next year
mention this particular experience, many chefs across the        the newest trend and innovation will have started from a
country are doing the very same thing with personal or           necessity in your kitchen. E
regional twists.
How do we achieve such a creamy, smooth, yet thick
texture when using products like this that are not that
textured on their own? Essentially what we are doing is
taking a substance with loads of developed flavor, but
nappe consistency, and transforming them to a pudding-           Dietary Manager
like consistency known as “puree” or “demi glace.” There
are several methods that have been around for ages like          Online Certificate
the basic reduction, or using thickening agents like roux        -Earn college credit
and slurry. The problem is reductions take loads of time         -SCC provides
                                                                  the preceptors
and constant surveillance, and the traditional thickening
                                                                 -Classes meet
agents impart flavor that disrupts the delicate balance of        ANFP’s requirements
ingredients like butternut squash. So, to parallel this trend,
science brings us molecular gastronomy.                          Food Service/
                                                                 Hospitality Program
Molecular gastronomy refers to the physical and chemical
                                                                 Lincoln, Nebraska
processes that happen when cooking. Even relatively
inexperienced cooks are combining physics and chemistry          800-642-4075 ext. 2528
principles to change the taste and texture of foods. Items       or 402-437-2528
like agar-agar (
1 HOUR

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                                                                                               CULINARY CONNECTION

      Reading Culinary Trends and Innovations and successfully completing these questions online has been approved for 1 hour
      of continuing education for CDM, CFPPs. CE credit is available ONLINE ONLY. To earn 1 CE hour, purchase the online CE
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       1. What does molecular gastronomy mean?                           4. How many types of smoking equipment is/are there?
          A. The variety of supermarket products available is as            A. One
             large as the cosmos                                            B. Many
          B. The physical and chemical processes that happen when           C. Three
             cooking
                                                                         5. What’s the main reason for the smoked foods trend today?
          C. That DNA determines what people like to eat
                                                                            A. Preserving meat
       2. Who was one of the first people credited with using sous-         B. Imparting flavor
          vide cookery?                                                     C. Health and fitness
          A. Bobby Flay
                                                                         6. What is agar-agar?
          B. Georges Pralus
          C. Benjamin Franklin                                              A. A substance used to agitate soup
                                                                            B. A chemical compound similar to plastic
       3. What does sous vide mean?                                         C. A substance derived from algae
          A. Volunteer cook
                                                                         7. How do trends and innovations relate?
          B. Cooked yesterday
          C. Under vacuum                                                   A. They parallel each other
                                                                            B. They don’t relate
                                                                            C. They are opposites

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