Culinary Trends and Breakthroughs - The Association of ...
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by Rocky Dunnam, CEC, CDM, CFPP 1 HOUR CE CBDM Approved Culinary Trends and Breakthroughs CULINARY CONNECTION WE E X P LO R E A F E W C U RRE NT C U LINARY TRENDS , A N D S O ME U N IQ U E P R O D UC TS D ES IGNED FO R E AS E O F USE AND GREAT RES ULTS. Trends and innovative new gadgets often emerge parallel and in varying climates. This demand caused the French to each other. This makes perfect sense when you think government to offer a hefty prize for any inventor that about it, because they create a market and necessity for could develop such means in an efficient manner. In 1809, each other. This concept is really nothing more than basic Nicolas Appert—a French brewer—noticed that food supply and demand. When a culinary trend demands cooked inside a jar did not spoil unless the seal of the jar certain ingredients, businesses respond by developing was broken and leaked. His method of preserving in jars more efficient, cost-effective ways to supply that demand is what led to the eventual use of similar preservation and the newest innovation emerges. As time passes, these methods in modern aluminum cans. The issue with cans once cutting-edge products become increasingly available was, and still is, that cans are sealed so well they cannot and affordable. easily be opened by hand, unlike their more crude glass jar counterparts. Thus, the can opener was invented. Let’s look at the can opener, for example. In the early Of course the can opener seems far from innovative by 1800s in France, the Napoleonic Wars demanded that today’s standards, but in 1855—when it was patented—it there be a way to preserve food for long periods of time was truly a unique invention. As the can opener became 30 N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017
rocky.dunnam@ejbcc.org more available, it also Restaurant Troisgros. the water itself. We know Rocky Dunnam, became more affordable. that at 212˚F water boils, CEC, CDM, CFPP is Like any trend, when Executive Chef at This parallel development something works well, it which circulates the water the Bivins Founda- has continued through becomes very popular. naturally via the escaping tion, Childers Place, the years as more items Other chefs, and even air bubble agitation. But Bivins Memorial are being canned, and scientists, began to notice what if we want to cook Nursing Home, Eliz- companies have developed this practice and wanted to in water that’s only 185˚F? abeth Jane Bivins better, less expensive can This water will, by nature, Culinary Center, adopt similar techniques NINETEEN49 Ca- opener options. in their operations. remain still. There must be tering, and Rock’D Before long, widespread a ‘supply’ to the ‘demand’ Recipes in Amarillo, So what kind of trends and use of sous-vide cookery that’s growing in the Texas. innovations are emerging became synonymous with industry’s establishments today that can or will follow producing an extremely that are practicing sous-vide a similar pattern? Let’s flavorful product with cookery. examine three modern trends and the inventions minimal moisture loss, Enter the immersion that are on a parallel track allowing for tender circulator! This invention, of convenience and novelty. meats, perfectly cooked born out of necessity vegetables, etc. for sous-vide cooking, SOUS VIDE AND Chefs began to develop electronically heats and IMMERSION parameters internally circulates water for this C I R C U L AT O R S that, when applied exact purpose. Early Sous vide (which means immersion circulators were correctly in terms of time “under vacuum”) is a bulky and very expensive. and temperature, would cooking method where These pieces were only deliver consistent results. food items are packaged feasible for high-end Like many innovations in plastic bags and vacuum restaurants and high-profit and trends though, early sealed, and then the sealed manufacturers, and were sous-vide cookery had package is submerged in simply irrational for use some drawbacks. For temperature controlled in smaller operations. instance, most restaurants water to heat evenly. Sous However, as the demand operate gas ranges as the vide as a food preservation increased, the supply preferred heat source. In method can be traced companies began to sous vide, it’s important back to the mid-1960s, but develop better and less to keep the temperature it had much earlier roots. expensive versions for of the water consistent to Georges Pralus adopted appropriately sized the parameter of the item the method in 1974 after operations. Today, an being cooked to result in experimenting with foie immersion circulator successful preparation. gras. He noticed that the can be purchased from On a gas range, this can foie gras maintained its companies like TUCS that prove nearly impossible, appearance, did not lose develop all-inclusive tanks especially over the excess amounts of the in the thousands of gallons extended periods of time precious fats, and had size ($100,000+), all the required. Also, to achieve better texture. He began way down to the at-home perfect uniformity in the using the method on cooking, you must circulate various other products in Continued on page 32 N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017 31
Continued from page 3 1 versions by companies like wood offset smoker box Anova Culinary ($100) that versions. This trend has have smartphone apps to diversified many dishes control effortlessly. Now and cuisines across the trending sous-vide America in the past, and is preparation methods can be projected to be even more utilized by literally anyone, creative in 2017. thanks to such innovative One invention that can inventions. be attributed to this SMOKING AND widespread popularity PRESERVING ARE is The Smoking Gun by TRENDING Polyscience ($99). This gun is operated much like Smoking and preserving, the large offset wood- like sous vide, have become smoking equipment that increasingly popular the BBQ pitmasters have past few years. Unlike sous used for decades. A small vide, these practices have cage holds wood chips been around for centuries. or shavings. This cage The most primitive is attached to a motor- versions of smoking were operated fan designed actually dehydrating via to pull smoke (when you smoke to preserve meats light the wood with a small for long excursions for lighter or torch) and blow nomads in early caveman it through a directed hose, days. More recently we’ve allowing you to smoke begun to use this method single servings of anything! for purpose of flavor This hand-held smoking instead of preservation, apparatus has inspired although it’s still used trends in preparing in specialty charcuterie unconventional smoked for preserved and cured foods like vegetables, meats. This trending style soups, and garnishes to of cookery has also forced other indulgences like ice manufacturing companies cream and even cocktails. to provide innovative equipment and tools The American Culinary necessary for execution. Federation predicts that IN SOUS VIDE, IT’S the smoked foods trend Smokers (smoking IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE will not only continue, equipment) can be found but also evolve drastically temperature of the water in literally hundreds of through 2017. consistent to the parameter of varieties—from upright electric versions, to water the item being cooked to result in smokers that incorporate successful preparation. moisture, to more basic 32 N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017
PU R E E S/SAUCE S AN D M O LECU L AR fat-based substance, has created a fun and inventive new GASTRONOMY trend on menus everywhere. This advance in science has Another interesting trend on today’s menus is the use of allowed us all to experience the same transformations in unconventional items in sauce and/or puree form. For cuisine that were previously reserved for food scientists example, one of the hottest fall/winter trends this season and large corporate manufacturing operations. is the use of butternut squash and pumpkin puree. MORE TRENDS, MORE GADGETS Not that this is “new” or really even that inventive by These examples are merely a few of the many advances itself, but what chefs are doing with these items is quite in innovative technology that emerge with and around impressive. the newest budding trends. These are vastly popular I recently dined at Imperial Taproom in Canyon, Texas, today and are projected to trend in the next few years where Chef Ethan Williams produced a version of as the availability of product and means become more butternut squash puree that had notes of chicken stock, widespread. The more we explore the options that items and acidic hints of balsamic vinegar (all while maintaining like the Immersion Circulator, The Smoking Gun, and a vibrant orange appearance that I’d expect from a agar-agar give us access to, the more the trends will butternut squash puree) that he paired with duck. While I likewise develop. Who knows? Maybe this time next year mention this particular experience, many chefs across the the newest trend and innovation will have started from a country are doing the very same thing with personal or necessity in your kitchen. E regional twists. How do we achieve such a creamy, smooth, yet thick texture when using products like this that are not that textured on their own? Essentially what we are doing is taking a substance with loads of developed flavor, but nappe consistency, and transforming them to a pudding- Dietary Manager like consistency known as “puree” or “demi glace.” There are several methods that have been around for ages like Online Certificate the basic reduction, or using thickening agents like roux -Earn college credit and slurry. The problem is reductions take loads of time -SCC provides the preceptors and constant surveillance, and the traditional thickening -Classes meet agents impart flavor that disrupts the delicate balance of ANFP’s requirements ingredients like butternut squash. So, to parallel this trend, science brings us molecular gastronomy. Food Service/ Hospitality Program Molecular gastronomy refers to the physical and chemical Lincoln, Nebraska processes that happen when cooking. Even relatively inexperienced cooks are combining physics and chemistry 800-642-4075 ext. 2528 principles to change the taste and texture of foods. Items or 402-437-2528 like agar-agar (
1 HOUR CE Questions CE CBDM Approved CULINARY CONNECTION Reading Culinary Trends and Innovations and successfully completing these questions online has been approved for 1 hour of continuing education for CDM, CFPPs. CE credit is available ONLINE ONLY. To earn 1 CE hour, purchase the online CE quiz in the ANFP Marketplace. Visit www.ANFPonline.org/market, select “Publication,” then select “CE article” at left, then search the title “Culinary Trends and Innovations” and purchase the article. 1. What does molecular gastronomy mean? 4. How many types of smoking equipment is/are there? A. The variety of supermarket products available is as A. One large as the cosmos B. Many B. The physical and chemical processes that happen when C. Three cooking 5. What’s the main reason for the smoked foods trend today? C. That DNA determines what people like to eat A. Preserving meat 2. Who was one of the first people credited with using sous- B. Imparting flavor vide cookery? C. Health and fitness A. Bobby Flay 6. What is agar-agar? B. Georges Pralus C. Benjamin Franklin A. A substance used to agitate soup B. A chemical compound similar to plastic 3. What does sous vide mean? C. A substance derived from algae A. Volunteer cook 7. How do trends and innovations relate? B. Cooked yesterday C. Under vacuum A. They parallel each other B. They don’t relate C. They are opposites C E M O N T H LY S P E C I A L S ® Save 25% on two items in January! Special members-only pricing valid through Jan. 31, 2017 Food Presentation: Tips for 5 HOURS Healthcare Chefs: Bringing 1 HOUR Making Meals Look Their Best CE CBDM Approved Basics Back CE CBDM Approved ONLINE COURSE | 5 CE Hrs. EDGE ARTICLE | 1 CE Hr. This online course shows you how to look Supplement your knowledge with the at food presentation and create a strategy EDGE magazine CE article, Healthcare for your events and meals to help you Chefs: Bringing Basics Back. If your stand out. Learn basic tips, techniques, healthcare facility cannot employ a and secrets used by high-end hotels and professional chef due to budget or other restaurants to make their food “pop.” reasons, then elevate your clients’ dining experience with the staff you have, by learning fundamental culinary skills. ONLINE COURSE: $30 (regularly $40) CE ARTICLE: $9 (regularly $12) Order at: www.ANFPonline.org/market 34 N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017
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