Asia Floor Wage Alliance: A Short History at the Brink of Transition - TRANSLAB
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Asia Floor Wage Alliance: A Short History at the Brink of Transition
Contents 3
TABLE OF CONTENT
1 Triggering Influences 4
2 Building Blocks 6
a Initial Discussions 6
b Formation of Asia Working Group 8
3 Formal Inception and Consensus Building 9
a First AFWA International Consultation, Bangladesh, 2007 9
b Second AFWA International Consultation and Formation of
Working Steering Committee, Thailand, 2007 10
c Third AFWA International Planning Meeting: AFW Figure and
Formation of International Steering Committee, Hong Kong,
2008 10 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
4 AFW in Public Domain 11
The Asia Floor Wage Alliance-International Secretariat with the help of valuable
a Fourth AFWA International Planning Meeting: Campaign and
12 directions, comments and suggestions from the AFWA International Steering
Public Launch Planning, China, 2009
12 Committee Members, developed this document. As the AFWA enters a new
b Public Launch, October 7, 2009
phase, we felt it was important to document the past.
5 National and Regional Processes 13
It was a challenge to write this short history of a decade-old campaign.
a Phase I: 2007-2009 13
Considering space constraints, the history cannot ever claim to be complete.
b Phase II: 2010-2011 15-16
Nevertheless, it is a reasonably comprehensive effort that relied on volumes of
c Phase III: 2012-2016 17
old documents, minutes, correspondences, and reports.
6 Public and Global Engagement 19
a Europe 19
b United States 20
c ILO and Global Union Federations 20-21
d Other Solidarities 22
7 Engagement with Brands 22
8 Revision of AFW Formula 24
9 International Complaints and Bargaining 24
10 Regulation of Global Supply Chains 25
11 Accomplishments 25
12 Way Forward 26-27
13 Annexures 28-30
4 Contents Contents 5
industry, including working conditions, the In the United States, consumer campaigns Among the various responses to corporate-led
global supply chain, and consumer attitudes. took the form of anti-sweatshop movements globalisation was the powerful drive to develop
The Asia Floor Wage Alliance In short, activism in this area has a long and on campuses (such as United Students the World Social Forum (WSF) as a counter
(AFWA) is an international campaign committed history. Against Sweatshops) and communities (such to the annual World Economic Forum. The
and alliance for a living wage and as Sweat Free Communities). The Worker beginning of the World Social Forum process
collective industrial bargaining in During this period, various mechanisms Rights Consortium (WRC), founded in 2000 by in Porto Allegre, Brazil in 2000 offered the
the global garment industry. AFWA’s developed for corporate monitoring and university administration, labour rights experts opportunity for an open horizontal space without
inception, in 2007, rests on the accountability in the garment industry, in and student activists, became a respected any dominant leader where those who sought
response to the pressure from activists. watchdog and monitoring force for the protection another vision for the world could meet and
shoulders of resilient, innovative
Many multinational companies developed of garment workers’ rights. discuss issues. This provided opportunities for
and inspiring social movements,
Codes of Conduct, which, however, were only interaction between diverse view points and a
particularly spanning the last decades voluntary. Along with codes, various monitoring Home to major garment brands, the United convergence of global justice movements.
of the 20th century and the beginning mechanisms evolved. International complaint States underwent radical changes in the 1980s
of the 21st century. mechanisms like the OECD (Organisation for and 90s with regard to social movements. The WSF organisers decided to move the event
Economic Cooperation and Development) Demographics changed slowly but surely due to to Mumbai in 2004, the first time it would be
mechanism have been painstakingly developed. immigration from countries negatively affected held outside of Brazil. The New Trade Union
by US government policies. Communities of Initiative (NTUI) was a key organiser of the WSF
1
Traditional trade unions did not respond colour and immigrant communities worked hard Mumbai because of its determination to develop
adequately to these new, urgent, global, and to build unity as they were pitted against each global strategies. WSF helped numerous
Triggering rapidly growing challenges. However, new other.1 More importantly, immigrant workers organisations like NTUI to leap frog into global
Influences social alliances began growing, bringing
together women’s movements, radical people-
and workers of colour began to collectivise and work.3 In particular, many affiliates of NTUI
represent themselves. Not all formed unions; had already begun developing a model of
centred development activists, community some formed “workers’ centres” or associations. trade union work that also integrated campaign
based organisations, and parts of the There was increasing involvement of people, work within it. So, they made strategic alliances
The last two decades of the 20th century international trade union solidarity movements. who would be traditionally considered “non- with organisations like Centre for Education
witnessed a global movement advocating the labour,” in issues and concerns of labour. An and Communication (CEC) in India, CCC in
de-regulation of policies by nation states with Consumer campaigns grew in consumer important manifestation of new organising in the Europe, Committee on Asian Women (CAW) in
regard to the free mobility of capital and the countries as a tool to build solidarity and USA was Jobs with Justice (JwJ), founded in Thailand, and Asia Monitor Resource Centre
unfettered and unaccountable advancement leverage in a brand-controlled industry. In the late 80s, by a few forward-thinking unions to (AMRC) in Hong Kong in order to strengthen
of corporate agenda. Multinational companies garments, the Clean Clothes Campaign build broad support for labour’s cause, drawing this model of work. NTUI was also a member of
from the global North and governments drove (CCC) in Europe, founded in 1989, grew on radical community and students struggles in the South India Coalition for Garment Workers’
this movement, with the acquiescence of into a premier campaigning organisation for communities of colour.2 Rights, a coalition of unions and NGOs from
governments in the global South. garment workers’ rights. They educated and Chennai, Tirupur and Bangalore. This Coalition
mobilized consumers, lobbied companies and During this period, movements also began had been active in Bangalore in pushing for
The garment industry is one of the oldest global governments, and offered direct solidarity and to come together globally to fight corporate- a common strategy towards unionization and
industries and this global corporate agenda support to workers’ struggles. CCC brought led globalization. A turning point in this anti-
3 Meantime in India, in the 1980s and 1990s, two phenome-
restructured the industry rapidly, negatively together trade unions, women’s organisations, globalisation movement was November 1999, na had deep consequences for the Indian labour movement.
affecting garment workers’ human rights. and consumer advocacy groups to build a when thousands protested and derailed the One was the rise of independent unions at the local work-
Garment workers’ rights activists, at both vibrant international movement for garment meeting of the World Trade Organisation (WTO) place level in the private sector. These independent unions
practiced workplace-level collective bargaining and industrial
the production and retail ends, therefore led workers’ rights. CCC developed national ministerial in Seattle, USA. level collective action without affiliating with party-affiliated
international accountability campaigns around chapters in different European countries as central trade unions. Gradually, they grew to be 30 percent of
the globe. Activists supported the organising well as a robust Urgent Appeals strategy. They 1 In 2000 even the AFL-CIO, the national federation of labour
the organised workforce. The second phenomenon was the
ushering in of neoliberal economic reforms in 1991. With the
of workers, publicized labour rights violations, motivated European trade unions and Global unions in the US, came out with a long-due resolution in government’s gradual withdrawal from the interests of labour,
fought to hold employers and multinationals Union Federations, thus playing a vital bridging support of immigrant workers and the legalization campaign traditional trade unions that had relied on political support
for the “undocumented”.
accountable to fair labour standards, and role. began to face new crises. Around 2000, a core group of union
leaders began to have discussions and meetings around the
organised consumer-led anti-sweatshop 2 JwJ locals developed in all over the country. Each local built country. They felt the need for a new union initiative, indepen-
campaigns. Their campaigns brought together In Asia, new organising in the garment industry a social alliance of union locals and a host of other entities dent of any single political party, to consolidate the growing
such as community groups (e.g. immigrant rights’ organisa-
companies, social organisations, unions, and led to the formation of militant unions, women tions, parents’ associations, social service agencies, and so
mass of independent unions into a national platform, scale up
workplace-level unions to confront global capital and develop
government and international institutions in workers’, migrant rights and labour rights on), students’ organisations, etc. JwJ believes that coalition industry level strategies, build unity between organised and
an effort to build multi-stakeholder initiatives organisations in various countries such as building has to be based on trust and reciprocity; workers’ unorganised sectors, across political lines, and be attentive to
rights struggles must be part of a larger movement for eco-
for accountability. Garment workers’ rights Bangladesh, Cambodia, Hong Kong, India, nomic and social justice; and international solidarity should be
social discrimination that divide the workforce. This led to the
founding of the New Trade Union Initiative.
activists also extensively documented the Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Sri Lanka, based on an acknowledgement of global inequalities, commit-
and Thailand. ment to worker unity, and reciprocity.6 Contents Contents 7
collective bargaining backed by campaign employers to recognize the workers’ right With this perspective, the group reached out to expose the lack of adherence to international
for labour rights. It had experience of working to organise, superficial recognition in itself to colleagues in North America, Europe, and labour standards in such a chain, and to enforce
with campaign organisations like WRC, CCC, rarely leads to unionization and bargaining Asia.6 They decided to initiate a process7 for accountability
SOMO, and others. power. Workers had attempted organising
over the years in numerous, courageous ways. “1) Developing a strategic international 2) Organizing an international event with
At the WSF-Mumbai, NTUI leaders met with However, workers who had aquired bargaining alliance for a campaign against an agreed-upon the alliance to launch a campaign with specific
Jobs with Justice (JwJ) from the USA, based ability in a certain factory and demanded higher corporate target along the global supply chain demands of the supply chain of the agreed-
on common principles.4 JwJ and NTUI began wages, had done so at the threat of relocation 6 Email dated April 14, 2005 upon corporate target.”
initiatives to develop a model of North-South and jobs moving elsewhere where the wages 7 Garment Campaign Note July 2005
international labour rights work. Garment was were lower. In other cases, workers demanding
one of the industries selected for collaboration higher wages from a manufacturing facility
based on the NTUI’s own recent history of were told that their employers’ hands were tied
organising in this growing export sector.5 by the insufficient prices that they received
from buyers, that is, parent multinationals.
Therefore, workers’ collectivities with bargaining
2
One statement in particular from the meeting minutes states:
strength needed measurable and bargainable
demands appropriate to the economics and the
“…demands have to go beyond the assertion of Right to Organize and must actually
Building Blocks powerholders of the industry.
provide organizers with a leverage for organizing. One of the key issues that allow the
race to the bottom through the global supply chain is a descending, almost bottomless
In India, the NTUI had already been involved
wage scale. We see this as a key obstacle to unionization in this industry. We think that
in guiding the formation of unions in industries
Asia, being the bottom of the market, it is important for organizers in Asia to debate the
a.
that have been difficult to organise, such as
following issue: even in the presence of national minimum wage laws, and so on, the lack
Initial Discussions the garment industry. NTUI wanted to look at
of a scaled or defined wage that is linked to the global supply chain and to the capacity of
campaigning as a way to aid unionization. In
the industry to pay, weakens the capacity for unionization.”
A significant and growing portion of the garment turn, the spread of unionization would strengthen
global supply chain is in Asia. South Asia campaign activities at the ground level, and
(especially India) and China is home to about enhance collective bargaining capability and
This group decided to begin a two-step strategy:
42 percent of the global population and close to the democracy of the labour movement.
half the labour force of the world – as well as the
Initiate the development of an Asia-wide alliance … and to come to a consensus: bottomless
consumer market. They represent the global In 2005, there was a meeting in Bangalore
wage scale where the bottom is Asia, and identification of dominant corporate target(s)
working poor and a major portion of the global of NTUI, Cividep, Fedina, Garment Mahila
and their global supply chains. Aside from India, we will involve partners from Sri Lanka,
supply chain. Until this working population is Karmikara Munnade, CEC, Save, and JwJ,
Pakistan, Bangladesh, Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Taiwan, Hong Kong and
secured and stabilized through decent labour to follow up on garment workers’ rights.
China. The end activity to this consensus-building process will be a final working meeting
standards and basic economic prosperity, Constraints on wage bargaining and the threat
or a workshop of the Asian partners, in India.
its exploitative conditions will depress global of relocation by brands were identified as
labour standards and prosperity. Therefore, fair clear problems. A Working Group on garment
The Asia-wide alliance will also reach out to organizations beyond Asia in order to develop
and decent global development is impossible workers was therefore created to explore the
an international consensus and strategy around the key issues. In the process of this
without the fair and decent development of the question of whether this was a phenomenon in
alliance building, that will also narrow down on a corporate target, we will hold a hearing
Asian workforce. other countries as well.
or an inquiry or a tribunal to launch our campaign and to focus attention on the chosen
corporate target.
Garment workers’ rights’ activists and unions This Working Group came to an understanding
had learned that, although it is important for that, given the global structure of multinational
After the international event, the alliance will continue with the campaign priorities set
4 The collaboration between NTUI and JwJ was an effort to companies and international institutions, the
during the process of alliance building.
build convergence of social movement unionism. Although it fight for labour standards and rights could not
was a bilateral (bi-national) relationship at the core, they were
clear that such relations must in the long run have multilateral
be carried out in a single plant location or even
potential. in an industry within just the nation-state. In
5 In 2004, Jobs with Justice organised a 9-city US labour tour fact, the entire global supply chain had to be
for trade union leaders from the New Trade Union Initiative. It
was hosted by Jobs with Justice local coalitions in the various
addressed. But firstly, everyone felt that strong
cities and included public talks, press interviews, and local relationships needed to be built, particularly
and national level strategy meetings with unions and commu- across Asia. One idea that was floated was that
nity organisations and public talks. NTUI leaders deepened
their understanding of building social alliances. NTUI and JwJ
of an “international tribunal” targeting important
also met with Maquila Solidarity Network (MSN) – Canada. corporations in the garment industry.8 Contents Contents 9
3
A senior research intern from the UK helped emerged that collective action should focus subsequent days, we continued to hold the
with preliminary research on wages in the
Asian region, which helped to kickstart the
on the one issue that causes the most anxiety
and leads to struggles – the wages of garment
Formal Inception and meeting between their office and our hotel
rooms, and were frequently interrupted by
crystallization of the notion of a cross-border workers in Asia. Consensus Building Intelligence Bureau officers sent to enquire
wage. into what we were doing. The government
What was really needed was a wage strategy clampdown, however, reduced Bangladeshi
b.
that would not trigger brand relocation. In other participation and smaller group meetings had
Formation of Asia Working Group words, labour organisers and activists would During the ensuing months and for over one to be held separately.
need to ensure that raising wages would not year, several small-scale discussions and
On December 2-4, 2005, the first Asia-level disturb or change the competitive status of the debates took place among organisations in Our discussions were successfully concluded,
consultation on a Garment Workers’ Campaign country; thus making brand relocation futile. Asia, North America, and Europe. The overall despite the clampdown. Although AFW-
was initiated in India by the Working Group for This would be possible only if wages rose consensus was that AFW, a cross-border wage related preliminary discussions began in 2005,
garment workers. As the report of the meeting simultaneously by the same factor in garment– ought to be pursued. However, to begin this the founding year is commonly stated to be
states, “This alliance is seeking to expose producing Asian countries. This wage began in an inclusive way, an international meeting 2007 because of this First AFW International
the lack of adherence to international labour to be called “Asia Floor Wage” (AFW). Informal would be needed. In Bangladesh, the National Consultation. At the meeting, a strategy was
standards in the global garments supply chain meetings and conversations continued in Asia, Garment Workers Federation NGWF (union) and formulated and a “Position Statement of Asia
and to enforce accountability in this respect. Europe, and North America to discuss the Karmojibi Nari (an NGO) were in discussions, Floor Wage Alliance” was written, which stated
Towards this end, this collective is initiating possibilities. There was general skepticism that and they suggested “in the midst of the national that “It is important to find a bargainable
various processes and actions.” It was attended such a strategy could be developed. uproar on low wage workers and garment and appropriately formulated demand in the
by participants from Bangladesh, Hong Kong, workers, they recommend[ed] holding off [an context of a global production chain that would
India, Indonesia, United States, and the Fair An opportunity arose in January 2006 when international meet] till after September [2006] motivate a strategic collective organizing for.”
Wear Foundation from the Netherlands.8 At the Clean Clothes Campaign and the Centre as all energy is targeted to the current urgent It committed to developing “a regional and
the meeting, the situation in different countries for Education and Communication held an situation.”11 differentiated wage formulation demand that
was discussed as was the issue of wages. We
decided that, to move the process, research
international meeting on “Garment Industry and
the International Labour Market: Local Action – a. First AFWA International Consultation,
would set the high end for garment industry
manufacturing in Asia.” Importantly it developed
and consultations needed to take place in Global Campaigning” in Delhi between January Bangladesh, 2007 “Principles for Conducting AFW Campaign”
garment-producing countries in Asia. A list of 19 and 21, 2006. A small workshop was which stressed Global South leadership,
organisations to contact in Cambodia, China, organised within that space to discuss AFW During the winter of 2007, we got the fortunate open dialogue, solidarity, decentralisation,
Malaysia, Pakistan, Thailand, Sri Lanka, and and the problem of wages. At the workshop, attention of Action Aid International which agreed broad cohesion, and deepening of national
Taiwan was made. there was consensus that the concept of a to give a grant for an Asia-based convention to processes. Furthermore, it stated “The AFW
consensus-driven and union-driven AFW for discuss an Asia strategy.12 Karmojibi Nari had campaign agrees that its core purpose is to
In 2006, during the conversations and meetings Asia was worthwhile. the capacity to organise the meeting and the achieve recognition of AFW and actualize it
that followed, there was consensus that the First AFW International Consultation was held in Asia and for this, will give due diligence to
bargaining power of Asia’s garment workers This was a key turning point. Several activists on May 26-28, 2007 in Dhaka. each alliance member’s sensitive issues. It will
was weak. For example, if garment workers and leaders began doing their own research not engage and get involved in issues that are
demanded a higher wage, supplier factories and enthusiastically sharing data, perspectives, Participants from 11 countries attended.13 divisive to the campaign and would weaken its
would warn them that brands would stop their and theories. The First Asia Working Group was On the eve of the meeting by which time all efforts.”
orders and relocate to another Asian country formed, and it met on January 21, 2006, with participants had already gathered in Dhaka,
with lower wages. It was clear therefore that people from Bangladesh, Cambodia, Canada, the Bangladeshi government informed the The year 2007 was a year of various activities to
at the level of a single country, raising wages India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Phillipines, Thailand, organisers that they wanted the meeting move the work of the AFWA forward, as decided
would be difficult because of the power of and the Netherlands attending.9 The Asia cancelled; garment workers in Bangladesh had during the Dhaka meeting. We were aware that
brands to relocate from one country to another Working Group decided on the Coordinator10 just recently protested against low wages and every country had unique union dynamics of
within a region. and identified that the next steps should be the government did not want this meeting to unity and division. Therefore, at the outset, the
outreach and finding the resources for a formal trigger more protests. AFWA leadership was interested in developing
At the same time, union and labour activists meeting. national grounding for AFW in various Asian
had an uneven understanding of the political Fortunately, a well-known organisation in Dhaka countries. For a given country, we decided
economy of the garment global supply chain, offered their premises for the meeting as we not to stress on one unified process – different
leading to lack of unity, common analysis and did not want to openly thwart the government unions could lead processes within a country
framework for collective action. A consensus by holding the meeting as planned. In the as long as they could all agree on the urgent
9 Decisions of First Asia Working Group, circulated January
24, 2006 11 An email update for India Committee for AFW on July 5,
issue of a living wage for garment workers.
8 Asia Campaign First Consultation Report Dec 2005 10 Anannya Bhattacharjee 2006
12 Email to AFW Friends & Allies dated January 27, 2007
13 List of participants, as of May 1 200710 Contents Contents 11
Different Working Groups were formed We made a more detailed timeline for 2008 Need-based monthly wage figures from The “AFW HKG Meeting Report Oct 08” reports
for Preparatory Research, Alliance and focusing on deepening national processes, different countries were converted to PPP$15. on the details of the meeting.
Networking, Capacity Building and Education, building our alliances, developing broader The set of figures ranged for example, from 336
and International Hearing. dissemination and education on the AFW idea, PPP$ in China to 417 PPP$ in Bangladesh and A formal campaign structure was formed. The
and researching in order to strengthen our 593 PPP$ in Indonesia. Working Steering Committee was dissolved and
In September 2007, the Committee on Asian arguments and strategy. We began to develop a formal International Steering Committee
Women (CAW) and TIE-Asia organised a easy-to-understand material and a website, The AFWA decided that it needed now to hold (ISC) was formed. The AFWA decide that the
conference, “Garment Sector – Sharing and and a logo. a crucial meeting bringing together alliance International Steering Committee would be
Action,” where AFW was asked to introduce the members from different countries to work numerically Asian-dominated, with Europeans
context to a gathering of activists and women We developed a Working Steering Committee towards finalizing the AFW figure. We decided and North Americans. As more countries would
workers. with the plan that as national processes got to hold the Third International Planning Meeting join, their representation would be added to the
completed, we would finalise the Steering in Hong Kong on October 17-21, 2008 and ISC.
Some of us then had the opportunity to meet Committee by March 2008. We revised the about 30 participants came from China, Hong
with the ILO in Southeast Asia and were told Working Groups and announced the regional/ Kong, India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Thailand, The International Steering Committee nominated
that the ILO’s current work on wage was campaign coordinators of AFWA. Indonesia, Malaysia, US, UK, The Netherlands, a Coordinating Committee (CC) for closer
c.
converging with the timing of the Asia Floor and Belgium. The global union federation, guidance. It was decided that each country
Wage work on wage. This was indeed exciting Third AFWA International Planning ITGLWF, also attended and was represented would form a National Campaign Coalition/
news and thereafter ILO released its first Global Meeting: AFW Figure and Formation of by Neil Kearney. Working Group (NCC) and develop a campaign
Wage Report 2008 in which several facts and International Steering Committee, Hong Kong, plan to deepen national work and anchor the
assertions converged with AFWA’s premises 2008 At the meeting, need-based survey figures international campaign. The International
and analysis. This gave a significant boost to were presented both in national currency and Secretariat and South Asia coordination would
our confidence. The AFW Working Steering Committee initiated PPP$. The conversion of the national living be based in India, the East Asia in Hong Kong,
a need-based survey of garment workers in wage as per the need-based surveys into the the Southeast Asia in Indonesia, Europe in The
The AFW concept was presented at a conference producing countries in order to gauge living PPP$ was done in order to have a common unit Netherlands, and North America in the USA.
on wage and equity organised by ILO-Bangkok wage demands among garment workers. The of measure and reference. Conversion brought
in which Thai government officials, workers’ anchor for AFW was to be the Food Basket. out the range of PPP$. The unions debated
4
organisations, and other civil society groups The Steering Committee and participating on the range from 400 PPP$ to 500 PPP$ by
were present. unions agreed that the Food Basket would be discussing the feasibility of the demand taking AFW in the Public
b.
3000 calories – which was the official basis into account factors such as minimum wage,
Second AFWA International Consultation for Indonesia’s KHL (governmental figure for living wage norms, unions’ wage demands in Domain
and Formation of Working Steering Committee, living wage). Since Indonesia was the youngest the country, and regional convergence. At the
Thailand, 2007 democracy and had most recently formulated end of a fruitful and long debate, the AFWA
this policy, the AFWA took that as the best fixed 475 PPP$ as the consensus figure.
Clean Clothes Campaign held its International regional standard. The participating unions In 2009, we began to find in the media, analysis
Campaign Forum meeting on November 26- also decided that AFW should be based on the The AFWA decided to announce this demand that supported the demand for higher wages
29, 2007 in Bangkok, in collaboration with family and not on an individual. To this end, we to the brands and the broader public through a in Asia. Articles made the link between Global
Thai Labour Campaign and CEC-India. It was took the 15th Indian Labour Conference’s (ILC) public launch. The date was set to be October Economic Recovery, Wage Rise & the Role of
a meeting to discuss the Play Fair Olympics standard of family with 3 consumption units; 7, 2009 the International Day of Decent Work. Asia -- Newsweek, “Give Them a Raise”, January
campaign and Giant Retailers as targets. The after studying working class family sizes in the This meeting marked an important transition in 17, 2009, and The New York Times, “Falling
AFW concept, campaign and strategy were region. CCC and WRC researchers crafted a the Asia Floor Wage Campaign. The campaign Wage Syndrome”, May 5, 2009. We found the
discussed in four different workshops, with wage survey which was used to do the first AFW made the transition from an internal consensus- Asia Floor Wage becoming increasingly relevant
different audiences, including unions and NGOs need-based wage survey. Bangladesh, India, building and education phase to a phase as researchers showed increasing wage gap
from all over the world, and global organisations Indonesia, China, and Sri Lanka, conducted the to move the campaign to a public launch in globally and concluded that the wage gap has
such as the ITUC, TWARO, and ITGLWF. research and the survey results were analysed.14 2009. The “AFW HKG Decision Statement to be reduced to stimulate the economy.
Oct 08” came out of the Hong Kong meeting
This provided AFWA the opportunity to hold where key decisions were taken. The meeting Diverse activities continued in AFWA member
14 An elaborate Research Plan from Dhaka was created but it
its Second International Planning meeting was outside the capacity of this minimally funded alliance. We
was conducted in an open manner with a lot countries such as workshops, education and
in Bangkok on November 28, 2007. All also sent a plea out to multiple scholars in the Global North to of debate and discussion, and satisfactorily awareness building, union meetings, and
International Planning Meetings from here on help with research but did not receive any positive responses. concluded taking into account all points of view. engagement with new organisations. AFWA
AFWA was also keen to research at that time possibilities for
always had a component on country-level global supply chain regulation and enforcement which was 15 Since, exchange rates are volatile and based on mon-
prepared a wonderful comic book in different
priorities, struggles, the relevance of AFW to beyond our capacity, and indeed retrospectively, we realise ey market, we decided to use the World Bank’s PPP$ as a Asian languages, which was disseminated
national priorities and the socialization of AFW. now that we were looking for something that had yet to be standard for conversion because it was based on purchasing widely among workers.
defined and would be proposed only in 2016 at the ILO. power parity.12 Contents Contents 13
5
a. Fourth AFWA International Planning
Tognoni, General Secretary of the PPT in April
2009. The meeting evolved criteria and terms of
platform in the following years. However,
although unions and NGOs participated in the
Meeting: Campaign and Public Launch collaboration and PPT was invited to the central
National and Regional AFWA campaign, a broad country process
Planning, China, 2009 international launch.16 Processes (Asia) only came together in 2015. In December
2015, meetings and seminars were held as
China-based allies offered to hold the Fourth The Central International Launch was held a result of which national processes started.
International Planning Meeting for AFWA in in Delhi, India with simultaneous events in BNPS in Bangladesh became the coordinating
Beijing on June 21-22, 2009. The meeting would participating countries. The launch date was set organisation in Bangladesh.19 In this process,
focus on the public launch of the AFW. It was to be October 7, 2009, the International Day of This section, in addition, to above sections, goes many unions (over twenty) participated in this
decided that the central international launch Decent Work. Preparations for AFW campaign deeper into country-wise processes in Asia. It country with high garment density.
would be held in Delhi, India. At the meeting, materials began in full speed – logo, gathering is divided into three phases or time periods – a)
we made detailed plans for the public launch of workers’ stories for a campaign report, public 2007-2009, b) 2010-2011, and c) 2012-2016. Hong Kong/China
including development of educational materials statements and perspective papers, FAQs,
(posters, comic books), concept notes on posters, and comic books, which proved to be AFWA had regular international and regional
different questions regarding the living wage highly popular in years to come. planning meetings, often by coordinating with
(such as gender perspective), and getting existing international and regional meetings.
endorsements and statements of support from Prior to the public launch, AFWA wrote to 60 AFWA functioned with low funds, with The Asia Monitor Resource Centre (AMRC)
international organisations and leaders. brands in Europe and USA, announcing the cooperation of members and allies and grew initially and later Globalisation Monitor (GM),
AFW figure and asking to meet with brands to with the commitment of its partners. Meetings played important roles in taking forward the
b. Public Launch
strategise how they could deliver the AFW. We
received quotes from all over the world from
were held multiple times in countries such as
Indonesia, Turkey, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, India,
idea of AFW in Hong Kong and mainland China.
GM became the official East Asia contact
experts applauding the public launch of the Hong Kong, and Belgium. organisation for AFWA and HKCTU also gave
In India, a national meeting of independent AFW. An art sculpture was created specifically support. GM translated all AFWA materials
unions and NGOs was held to begin planning for this event.17 AFWA-International Secretariat sent regular into Chinese and worked hard to socialize
for the launch. In Sri Lanka, the Campaign . updates on the work of AFWA as well as the concept. They held a roundtable in Hong
Committee, convened by ALaRM continued The Asia Floor Wage entered the public domain solidarity alerts from partners to its mailing list. Kong and helped representatives from AFWA
to actively participate and plan. In Indonesia, on October 7, 2009. Along with the Central from the International Secretariat to travel to
TURC (SE Asia hub for AFW) organised a
meeting of unions in Jakarta where the AFW
was presented and the public launch was
International Launch in India, launch events
were held in Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, a. Phase I: 2007-2009
China to make invaluable connections with
academics, lawyers, and activists. We found
Hong Kong, Europe and North America. Due to high receptivity in China among top scholars
discussed. In China, further research on wages the shoe-string budget of the campaign, many The first phase of national and regional and labour lawyers. In fact, one of the foremost
was conducted by a senior academic. individuals and organisations dug into their own processes in Asia consisted of deepening scholars was willing to conduct a wage survey
funds to make this historic start possible. national processes, building alliances, in China, to find evidence to support the idea of
Stephanie Luce, Professor at University of engaging in education, and conducting the Asia Floor Wage. In the following months,
Massachusetts-Amherst in the USA, wrote a After the public launch, brands began to visit the research, including a need-based survey of seminars were organised in some areas of
“Theoretical Report” on the Asia Floor Wage that International Secretariat of AFWA to interrogate garment workers to determine a living wage. China.
could be used for argumentation and placed and challenge the AFW formulation. AFWA
the AFW within a scholarly framework. Jeroen representatives were also invited to a variety Bangladesh India
Merk at CCC developed a “Popular Report” of meetings in Europe and USA – to meet with
on the Asia Floor Wage for wider reading. An brands, multi-stakeholder initiatives, unions,
essay was published by New Labor Forum in other activists and so on.
the United States called “Raising the Floor: The
Movement for Living Wage in Asia”. Amirul Haque Amin from the National Garment The India Committee-AFW continued to meet
Workers Federation (NGWF) was asked, in the to discuss the developments; garment unions
In the meantime, AFWA met with the Permanent early years, to take the lead in developing the (some of whom are with NTUI) were part of
Peoples’ Tribunal (PPT) in Italy to get their idea of living wage in Bangladesh. However, in AFWA -- such as GATWU, GAWU, GAFWU
collaboration on the long-desired “International the interest of unity in Bangladesh, he argued and in later years GLU, KGWU, and MMP.
Hearing for Asia Floor Wage and Decent Labour 16 Notes from PPT Meeting April 2009 that it would be better if a non-union entity The India Committee also reached out to other
Standards in Garment Global Supply Chain.” 17 Asia Floor Wage: Reflections, Critiques, Aspirations, Cen- took on the task of country level coordination.18 unions; Indian National Trade Union Congress
AFW representatives met with the Gianni tral International Public Launch, October 6-7, 2009 Accordingly, an NGO took on the function and (INTUC) and Hind Mazdoor Sabha (HMS)
worked on building a representative national joined. The INTUC, one of the largest union
18 Action Aid-Bangladesh took on the responsibility. 19 The Bangladesh meeting was attended by 35 participants,
23 organisations most of which are unions.14 Contents Contents 15
federations organised an AFW seminar with ALaRM also took on the role of coordinating Secretariat made a trip to Thailand to meet with the AFW, insisting that the gap between
industry, government officials and unions in an AFW discussions in Sri Lanka. A Working its unions and a preliminary seminar was held the minimum wage and the AFW had to be
area that manufactures ready-made garments. Committee was formed by ALaRM consisting by one of its strong unions to discuss wages in negotiated with the brands. Furthermore, the
It was very well received. All India Trade Union of the Women’s Centre, Dabindu Collective, Thailand. AFW International Steering Committee called
b.
Congress (AITUC) organised a seminar in Jathika Sevaka Sangamaya (JSS), United on brands and retailers to take responsibility for
South India where local wages and working Federation of Labour (UFL), and National Phase II: 2010-2011 resolving the urgent situation of stagnant poverty
conditions were discussed and the concept of Workers Congress – which began meeting in wages, along with suppliers and governments.
AFW presented and discussed. HMS provided November 2008. (Subsequently, the National The second phase, after the public launch of The AFW Secretariats wrote to brands and
India-based inputs to AFW at various local and Free Trade Union and the Red Flag Union also the AFW, consisted of strengthening existing retailers as well as the industry associations
international meetings. The AFWA International joined). They developed a national plan for national processes, expanding to new and governments, expressing this position. In
Secretariat operated out of the Society for building a wider consensus on the AFW, on countries, and deepening solidarity work as Cambodia, as a result of the strikes that unions
Labour and Development, a labour rights creating a group of trainees to raise awareness struggles for minimum wage increases grew. organised in order to demand a living wage, the
organisation. amongst the workers about the AFW campaign, Militant minimum wage struggles grew across minimum wage figure was increased through
and on using the media to publicize the AFW. A Asia, most notably, in Bangladesh, Cambodia, the provision of bonuses and allowances for
Indonesia learning session was held by a Wages Boards and Indonesia demonstrating the need for food, attendance and seniority. AFWA was
Representative attached to the Department the AFW without delay. AFWA expressed firm that ensuring freedom of association and
of Labour on the subject of minimum wages unwavering solidarity with minimum wage raising national minimum wages above the
followed by further analysis of the AFW by an increase struggles put forth by trade unions current poverty levels are central to ultimately
AFW Steering Committee member from Sri in the affected countries. AFWA believes that ensuring that Asian garment workers receive
In 2007, representatives from the AFWA Lanka. each such national minimum wage struggle is a the Asia Floor Wage.
International Secretariat made a trip to Indonesia necessary and vital step towards the realization
to meet with many of its unions and two full day Thailand of a regional minimum living wage for millions of Vietnam
regional wage seminars were held in Bandung Asian workers.
and Jakarta, resulting in good linkages being
made between local wage struggles and the AFWA expanded to Cambodia and explored
concept of the AFW. We also met the ngos Vietnam.
LIPS and TURC. Soon after, TURC showed CAW helped in Southeast Asia. In Thailand, In 2011, the AFWA, the Vietnam General
initiative and interest in taking the idea forward a senior Southeast Asian activist21 helped Cambodia Confederation of Labour (VGCL), and the
in Indonesia and became the Southeast Asia AFWA organise three workshops with Thai National Textile and Garment Union (the
contact point for AFWA. (In later years, this unions in Bangkok, Saraburi and Rayong. Over industrial union) had a dialogue on working
coordinating role was taken up by LIPS). Initially twenty unions attended and the concept was conditions and wages. The dialogue was fruitful
GSBI, SPN joined, followed by FSBI, SBSI-92, discussed thoroughly. The activist sent the and interesting; much information was shared
and Garteks in later years. following analysis: In August 2010, AFWA presented AFW for the and the perspective of global supply chain
first time in Cambodia. On 4th August 2010, a bargaining generated significant excitement.
Indonesia’s thinking on living wages was quite • There is a lack of understanding of wages. large seminar was held in Cambodia with the The AFWA also met with the government and
advanced and the government’s own positions • The minimum wage setting on behalf of broadest possible union participation. All labour various international NGOs. The dialogue and
were encouraging. The government’s definition workers is represented by the National unions and NGOs participated with enthusiasm subsequent meetings were a great learning
of KHL (living wage) and the premise of 3000 centers, who have no interest except for the and the AFW was discussed within the context experience with satisfactory outcomes.
calories for a physically active worker became payments they receive to sit on boards. of Cambodia’s minimum wage struggles
key to the AFW definition. TURC involved 10 • Trade unions officials who are independent over the past few months. AFWA presenters AFWA deepened its work in existing countries
union leaders to act as field researchers and and negotiate with companies do not know visited several unions and NGOs, and the ILO. and continued to build regionally.
learning from AFW rationale and concept, did a how to prepare to negotiate. Cambodian organisations, which had recently
need-based survey in four areas.20 • Overall there is lack of acumen/experience calculated the living needs of their workers, Indonesians reported on the wage discourse
in the unions. were unanimous in their support for the AFW. and negotiations in their country. They pointed
Sri Lanka • If we want to have a campaign on AFW. We Initially, the Labour Program of CLEC took on out that brands set the price to suppliers,
have to start from the beginning. That is to the role of coordination; this was later taken on based on the legal “minimum wage” definition
give a very good grounding on wages. It has by CENTRAL. Unions such as CCAWDU and as opposed to the legal “minimum living
to have its own dynamics and evolve… CATU joined. wage” (KHL) definition in Indonesia. This
was in contradiction to the brands’ positions
ALaRM, a national alliance of unions and The regional coordinator organised three days In the Cambodian struggle, AFWA engaged on wanting to pay a living wage to garment
NGOs had just completed a wage research of workshops on wages and the AFW. In 2007, with Cambodian partners to articulate how workers. In India, violent opposition to freedom
report which proved to be extremely useful. AFWA representatives from the International the minimum wage struggle is different from of association by management and government
20 Report from TURC, July 17, 2008 21 Arokia Dass16 Contents Contents 17
was of paramount significance. So too was of AFW in October 2009 and to consolidate In November 2010, CCC organised an to common brand targets and demands, and
the large scale wage theft that further added plans as they moved forward. It was time for international campaign meeting in Bandirma, highlighted the need for regional enforceable
to the poverty of workers struggling under serious implementation of the AFW through a Turkey which provided AFWA with an brand agreements. AFWA also learned from
inadequate, poverty level minimum wages. transparent and accountable mechanism that opportunity to hold AFWA’s Sixth International national agreements such as Bangladesh’s
In India, struggles were going on to raise the included workers’ representative organisations. Planning Meeting on November 23rd in Turkey. Safety and Health Accord and Indonesia’s
minimum wage, implement a minimum wage, UNI had endorsed AFW; and we mourned the Interest in the AFW was expressed by Pakistan Freedom of Association Protocol.
and to develop global supply chain bargaining. premature passing away of the ITGLWF General and the Philippines; Vietnam was also willing to
Secretary, Neil Kierney, who had been a key explore the idea. AFWA decided22 to develop a In addition, in response to the consistent union
The AFW International Steering Committee participant in the Hong Kong meeting where we broader framework to build the AFW campaign busting, attacks on freedom of association, and
met in Jakarta from March 12-14, 2010 to take adopted the AFW. by increase in short term contracts and contract
stock of developments since the public launch • Foregrounding gender in AFW work and labour, AFWA and ABBG foregrounded the fact
developing women workers’ leadership that the AFW or the payment of a living wage
• Strengthening Asian labour’s negotiating was inextricably tied to freedom of association,
position across the global supply chain. the end of short term contracts and of gender-
• Integrating Access to Freedom of based discrimination.
AFWA decided to develop an Asia Brand Bargaining Group of Asian unions,
Association, Right to Collective Bargaining,
prepared to meet as a group with buyers. The AFW-ISC articulated the following
Ensuring Minimum Wage Compliance As mentioned above, AFWA met with the
demands of buyers:
Permanent People’s Tribunal in Italy in April
The AFW-ISC declared May 1, 2011 as a 2009. That meeting transformed our original
Global Day of Action for Asia Floor Wage. The idea of holding one International Hearing to a
1. Pay the living wage
common message would be “Living Wage for series of National Hearings in Asian countries
2. Recognise AFW as a benchmark for living wage
an 8-Hour Day!”. An optional additional line, for in order to deepen the process, strengthen
3. Map the differences between AFW, minimum wage and prevailing wage.
those who wished to articulate it, was “Garment unity, and bring the process closer to workers.
4. Adjust the pricing to make higher wage possible
Workers Demand [AFW in national currency] The Tribunal provided a great opportunity
5. Enter into dialogue with local AFW partner (local worker organization)
per month!” This tradition was followed again to broaden and deepen national processes,
6. Conduct pilots with suppliers and local worker organizations
from 2012 till 2014. forming national consensus and engaging with
7. Stabilise relations and orders with pilot suppliers
c.
brands.
8. Ensure Freedom of Association, a pre-condition for AFW
Phase III: 2012-2016
9. Write to sourcing countries’ governments stating support and need for AFW; send
AFWA, under the guidance of eminent human
copy to AFW Alliance.
The third phase consisted of conducting rights scholar, Dr. Upendra Baxi, produced
bargaining trainings across Asia, setting a paper on the AFW and the importance of
common brand targets and demands, holding of making a minimum living wage a fundamental
the National Peoples’ Tribunals, regular revision human right. This paper would serve to anchor
of the AFW figure, Global Days of Action and the argumentation that developed through the
solidarity, developing a multi-country complaint various Asian national tribunals leading up to
strategy, joining of more new countries, and the International Tribunal in 2015.
developing the concept of regional agreements
and enforceable brand agreements. National People’s Tribunals were held in Sri
Lanka, Cambodia, India and Indonesia, between
AFWA organised bargaining training sessions 2011 and 2015, ending with a Concluding
across member countries in Asia, at both the Tribunal in Sri Lanka. Each tribunal was
national and regional levels. These training organised by the country’s national organising
sessions brought in large numbers of women committee. This provided organisations a point
workers in all countries and also international of unity and solidarity. The jury was selected
migrant workers in countries like Malaysia. They by the national organisers and consisted of
were successful in bringing into focus the role national and international eminent persons.
of brands, the importance of targeting them in Workers were trained on testifying and the
a global supply chain industry like the garment process reached deep into the grassroots to
industry, and in shaping common demands. The bring out important stories demonstrating the
regional training sessions helped develop the exploitation in the garment global supply chain
Asia Brand Bargaining Group (ABBG), gave rise and the gendered aspects of labour violations
and industrial relations.
22 AFWA Sixth International Planning Meeting Rpt, November
201018 Contents Contents 19
6
The successful organising of the NPTs payment of a living wage and not waste time and The jury also noted that “The reports presented
demonstrated AFWA’s strength in bringing money on unnecessary research. The verdicts during this Session by experts representing Public and Global
about an alliance between the affiliates of also affirmed AFW as an important measure of a international organizations, as well as the
global union federations as well as new unions minimum living wage within a global production increasingly concordant opinion of the Engagement
emerging from militant and different traditions, network framework. European, USA, and Asian academic world,
into a shared framework that foregrounded the have been clearly supportive of the demands
wage struggle as the context for unionisation. After having held four NPTs, the AFWA presented in the submission” and they pushed
In this sense, AFWA as a combination of
a transnational union network and a social
International Steering Committee decided
that the Concluding Session of the NPTs, in
international institutions, especially the ILO in
“Adopting and publishing criteria for minimum
a. Europe
alliance network for labour rights was greatly collaboration with the Permanent Peoples’ living wage, using the Asia Floor Wage as
In Europe, the CCC has been AFWA’s foremost
strengthened. These two axes reflect the Tribunal (PPT) would be held in Sri Lanka credible benchmark in the global garment
ally and partner, as is evident from activities
broad alliance that is required to address the in December 2015. This final tribunal was industry.”
described above. The CCC’s International
components of the global supply chain. different from the NPTs. It focused on previous
Secretariat socialized the idea within
NPT testimonies and verdicts, international AFWA called for a Global Day of Action on
Europe among CCC coalitions and AFWA
The NPTs also invited local government and institutions such as the ILO and the UN, and November 20th, 2015 in consumer / retail and
representatives visited Europe to meet with
suppliers but their presence was minimal, was directed at international institutional means production countries. We requested members,
some of them at various gatherings. The CCC
demonstrating the fear of the threat of relocation of accountability. AFWA presented a petition on allies and supporters to organise actions and
also attempted to connect AFWA with its Giant
by global brands. Several brands were invited making a living wage a fundamental human right send a strong message to brands that they
Retailers’ Campaign.
to testify; a few participated. and on the importance of inclusion of minimum must pay the difference in Cambodia and begin
living wage in the ILO’s core labour standards. to pay living wage in Asia. November 20th
AFWA engaged in significant outreach in
AFWA partners ALaRM in Sri Lanka and CAW fell within the period of retail and Black Friday
Europe. AFWA Steering Committee members
organised the First National People’s Tribunal/ At the concluding session the jury would assess actions in the USA (November 10th-27th).
presented in the UK, Germany, and the
Hearing in Colombo, Sri Lanka on March 27-30, 1) government and brand efforts in moving
Netherlands. In the UK, War on Want and Action
2011. Women garment workers testified on the towards a living wage, 2) the importance of AFWA partners and countries organised for
Aid-UK joined AFWA. We also talked to Unite
exploitative working conditions they faced and making living wage a fundamental human intervention at the first-ever tripartite discussion
and TUC. Action Aid-UK and War on Want
various experts made the case for the need and right, and 3) the role of the ILO in regulation by the ILO at the ILC in June 2016 in Geneva.
organised a seminar on AFW in London where
feasibility for a living wage and the importance of the global garment supply chain. The jury This is further described below.
JwJ presented on the work done in the US,
of moving away from poverty-level definitions of heard from experts such as Olivier de Schutter
AFWA and NTUI spoke about the concept and
minimum wage. The judges gave a verdict on of the UN ECOSOC Committee, Stephanie Pakistan
idea, and Labour Behind the Label described
the various parties in the global supply chain Luce, the expert wage academic, Frank Hoffer
the UK perspective. The seminar was attended
and referred positively to the AFW’s useful Senior official from ACTRAV/ILO, Upendra
by Unite, ETI NGO Caucus, ITGLWF, Praxis,
formulation for delivering the much-needed Baxi, eminent human rights scholar, as well as
Action Aid-Bangladesh, and media groups.
minimum living wage. country reports from Bangladesh, Sri Lanka,
India, Indonesia and Cambodia, reports on In 2015, positive developments took place
The AFW was convincingly presented and
The Second National People’s Hearing/Tribunal brand responses to living wage from Clean in Pakistan. Although NGOs and unions from
argued at the Play Fair 08 meeting organised
on Living Wage for Garment Workers was held Clothes Campaign, expert opinion from Yale Pakistan had actively participated in AFWA
by the CCC, ITGLWF and ITUC in Hong Kong.
in Cambodia on February 5-6, 2012. It was Law School regarding the importance of living from the beginning, so far, a broader country
AFWA was asked to nominate a member to
organised by a representative AFW Cambodia wage in the global supply chain, among other wide process had been lacking. In December
the Giant Retailers (GR) Campaign Steering
Committee of the AFWA. testimonies. 2015, meetings and seminars were held and
Committee. The GR campaign would integrate
PILER became coordinating organization in
the AFW demand into its campaign.
The Third National People’s Tribunal on Living The jury gave a firm, and strong verdict urging Pakistan.23
Wage for Garment Workers was successfully the ILO to immediately adopt the living wage
The CCC in French-speaking Belgium invited
held in Bangalore on November 22-23, 2012. concept as one of its core labour standards.
AFWA to the Asia Europe People’s Forum in
It was supported by twenty unions and NGOs It stated that the goodwill of the brands is
Brussels. AFWA was widely featured in a variety
across India. no longer credible: “the brands’ goodwill,
23 Pakistan meeting was attended by 30 participants from of platforms and received strong support. On
to be legitimated, should translate into labour organisations as well as supplier organisations. In October 4, 2010, AFWA was featured at a
The Fourth National People’s Tribunal on Living concrete financial investments for the urgent Pakistan the condition of garment industry was discussed,
including low wages and the downward pressure on prices Roundtable, “Decent Work, Decent Life for All”
Wage for Garment Workers was held in Jakarta, implementation of effective living wage policies
faced by Pakistan’s suppliers from brands. The AFW was dis- where brands and members of the European
Indonesia on June 21-24, 2014. in support and collaboration with Governments cussed in detail; the suppliers were intrigued by the fact that Commission were invited.
and workers’ organizations.” AFW is a demand of the brands because suppliers’ margins
The verdicts from the NPTs unequivocally are extremely small compared to the maximum profits made
by the brands.
called on brands to immediately implement theYou can also read
