Aloette Preview The Art of Hospitality Food, Wine, and Cocktails - Alo Restaurant
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magazine
Aloette Preview
The Art of Hospitality
Food, Wine, and Cocktails
2
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magazine
5 The Art of Hospitality IT’S ALWAYS NICE TO RECEIVE ACCOLADES.
And topping Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants was a wonderful
8 Kitchen Footprint highlight this spring. Hitting our stride has allowed us to change it
up a little in the kitchen, reflected in tweaks in the amuse-bouches,
12 Terroir: Portugal adding a course to the menu, altering others. These changes are not
only refreshing for the guests, but also keep the staff engaged and
15 Behind the Bar excited, and that translates into the experience in the dining room.
This year, as we continue to push the envelope of offerings at alo,
16 Around Town we will introduce our latest concept—right downstairs—with aloette.
Aloette will open soon. It is set up as an American diner, replete
18 Emerging Toronto with light rosewood, a 14-seat counter, and camel-coloured
banquettes. An arched ceiling implies cosy and tight. An open
kitchen invites a creative spin on classic bistro food. Yes, it will be
louder in there, with a lower price point and a fun wine and beer
list. But the food will be elegant, light, and fresh as we maintain a
relationship with the kitchen upstairs. Housed all in one building, we
can streamline our operations a little with some shared spaces.
In the following pages, you’ll learn about our take on hospitality with
our General Manager Amanda Bradley and meet our staff as they
share their experiences and programs. Enjoy—we look forward to
cooking for you again soon at our restaurants.
—Chef Patrick Kriss
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Visit sanpellegrino.com alo magazine 3
THE ART OF HOSPITALITY
WITH AMANDA BRADLEY
I t’s hard to imagine Amanda
Bradley getting her feathers
ruffled in a dining room. But
she laughs, remembering a
specific time in her life when
working in a restaurant was
anything but easy. “It was
in France at Michelin-starred La
Grenouillére. I didn’t have a great
command of the language, which
made working there the hardest
thing I have ever done.” Rather than
take on a defeatist attitude, Bradley
embraced mastering the language.
“You learn a lot about yourself when
you aren’t in your comfort zone,” she
admits. In her case, she stretched
hospitality beyond the language
barrier, compensating by turning
up the charm and anticipating her
guests’ needs. “When you can’t
verbally express something, your
smile always has to be there. You
have to go out of your way to notice
small details and be proactive,
instead of waiting to be asked.”
alo magazine 5
FRONT-OF-HOUSE
SPOTLIGHT Quentin Meloff joined the alo staff when the
restaurant first opened. He went to culinary
QUENTIN MELOFF, SERVER’S ASSISTANT school and worked at several restaurants—
including a stint at Michelin-starred
Ristorante Andreina in Le Marche, Italy—
before having a front-of-house epiphany.
“I had always envied the ability of staff to
engage with guests, and so I made a change
from the kitchen into the dining room.”
What’s unique about working at alo?
The relationship among our staff. There is
no wall between the front of house and the
back of house.
Alo is known for its impeccable, all made sense.” That innate ability their water, the colour of napkin, and
pre-emptive service, and so it’s easy to process policies, coupled with a basically the kind of experience they What is a key personality trait you
to see how Amanda translated this human interest in making people feel want. You can have as much or as little need in order to work in hospitality?
life lesson into her current style. She good about their experiences in a engagement with us as you prefer.” Genuine excitement for your job versus a
jokes about getting the staff T-shirts dining setting, naturally led her down sense of duty. It's the difference between
Defying the industry’s high employee setting a beautiful table and actually wanting
with the slogan “Better proactive than the hospitality path.
turnover, 95 percent of its current to set that table beautifully.
reactive.” Because she believes that
It was in France, though, where she front-of-house staff has been with
when someone comes to your house, Favourite part of the workday?
dug deep to best connect with the alo from Day One. Bradley points
you don’t put them in the position Whenever there's an opportunity to learn
type of hospitality she wanted to to a well-written cover letter as
of having to ask for something: “It about something new, whether it’s a new
one day present in a place of her something that catches her eye,
makes guests uncomfortable to be wine, menu item, or hospitality approach.
own. “People think French service is as well as a winning personality: “I
demanding, so we get ahead of that.”
snooty, with white gloves. But what can teach you the processes,” she What do you consider your most
She breaks down the entire dining
I experienced there was completely smiles, “but I can’t teach you how important duty?
experience into a simple process: “You
different. It was cool, lively, and fun. to have a good attitude!” Because Paying attention to the details, from aligning
require water, a napkin, food and wine,
And what really rubbed off on the best tool she can give her staff is all the tables to determining which cutlery
and perhaps a toilet break. We have
me was this notion that service knowledge, alo offers monthly paid matches which dish—a surprisingly highly
those items covered.”
is not about bringing a plate wine or bar training for all. “Everyone debated topic! It's cliché, but all those little
She didn’t learn her cordiality A to Zed to the table—it’s about being gets a chance to do tastings and duties are extremely important.
at a fancy training facility, although get the broad strokes on the wine
the person who is the conduit Favourite dish on the menu?
she did study hospitality and tourism and cocktail offerings,” she explains.
between the chef and the guest We currently serve a stew-style dish
marketing at Niagara College. In fact, “Educated staffs makes for a better
and learning to manage the featuring Saltspring Island mussels from
most of her philosophy is grounded guest experience. There is nothing
expectations of both sides.” British Columbia, with our pain au lait and
in a basic understanding of the worse than having to say you don’t
cultured butter. It's a bit of a break from a
systems that need to be in place to Alo very much follows the rules. There know something.” No matter what
“utensils only” dining style. There's no right
work at any job efficiently. She got is an expected dance in the dining language it’s in!
or wrong way to eat it. Guests get to use
her first taste of this at McDonald's, room as servers glide in the same fluid It’s fair to say the art of hospitality has their hands and fully immerse themselves
where she worked at 16 as a cashier, motion—always on the right—yielding defined Bradley’s career. She has an in the dish.
moving her way up to training and to guests, pulling out chairs, and eye for detail and the bigger picture,
management positions over the next folding napkins. Even the toilet paper What is your last duty of the day?
as well as a firm grasp of her own role
five years. “What I loved was that is refolded after each guest exits the Polishing off all the glassware and cutlery,
in it. “My dad’s hobby is fixing small
there was a procedure for everything. washroom. It rings of haute hotel– ready for the next day.
engines,” she muses. “Perhaps my
From customer service to employee type service, which makes sense: fascination with understanding how If not in hospitality, then …
turnover and food ordering, there Bradley once interned at the Hilton in each little part works in connection I would be in the food anthropology or food
was a reason for the way everything Niagara Falls. But alo breaks the rules with one another, and tightening science field. I find it fascinating to trace
went down, almost to a science, too. “We don’t dictate anything to our things up to make it better, came from back something as basic as bread or a carrot
and I naturally identified with why it guests,” Bradley assures. “They choose that same instinct.” to its roots.
6 alo magazine alo magazine 7
FROM THE SOURCE White Asparagus
KITCHEN FOOTPRINT JANSSEN PRODUCE
AND SPECIALTIES
Serrano Ham, Spring Peas,
and Marcona Almonds
COOKING WITH WHITE ASPARAGUS
This delicious white asparagus dish is simple
and easy to prepare.
SOUS-CHEF
SERVES 4
NICK BENTLEY
Salt to taste
Pinch sugar
2 knobs butter (optional)
10 spears white asparagus
1 cup English spring peas, shelled
150g thinly sliced Serrano ham
50g Marcona almonds, toasted
DRESSING
1 tbsp grainy French mustard
2 tbsp good olive oil
“Ontario is home to many amazing
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
livestock and produce farms that take care
and pride in their products, just the same Chopped parsley or chives
as a meticulous chef carefully crafting his Honey or pinch of sugar to taste
or her next tasty dish,” says sous-chef Nick Salt and pepper to taste
Bentley. He points out Janssen Produce Mix all ingredients together in a bowl and season to taste.
Cooking with seasonal ingredients is and Specialties as a prime example.
especially inspiring to the team at alo, METHOD
Run by husband-and-wife team Peter and
because they get to play with them only a
Leasa Janssen, the Ontario farm has been Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with a fair
few times a year. “As the seasons change we
growing white asparagus for more than amount of salt and a pinch of sugar. For extra richness,
see wonderful transformations in nature,
25 years. In fact, Peter was born and raised add a couple knobs of butter to the cooking water.
and as chefs we like to highlight these once-
in an area of Holland famous for growing Trim the base of the asparagus by 1 inch to remove the
a-year ingredients to their full potential,”
white asparagus along the German border, woody part. Peel the asparagus carefully, leaving the
explains sous-chef Nick Bentley. White
and he goes to great lengths to replicate tip untouched. Be sure to peel twice around the stalk to
asparagus has a short but sturdy season in remove the woody-textured exterior.
the growing process on his farm.
the later months of spring to early summer.
Blanch the spring peas in the boiling water and cool in
“We like to showcase this rarer spring “We grow the white asparagus exactly how
ice to retain their colour.
delicacy as a star component to a dish simply they grow it in Holland,” Peter explains.
with butter, cured pork products, or other “We import the seed, the root, and all Drop the asparagus in the water after the peas and
seasonal spring vegetables.” reduce the heat. Lower and slower is best for white
of the equipment needed to do it right.”
asparagus. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, depending on how
Even their sandy loam soil is the perfect
White asparagus isn’t genetically different thick the stocks are, minding the pot so that it doesn’t
complement to Holland’s fields in the boil. Once tender, cool the asparagus in ice water
from its cousin, green asparagus. In fact, it
south, where all the white asparagus briefly. Drain on paper towel. Cut the asparagus in half
gets it colour simply from a lack of sunlight
comes from. They hand harvest one spear or thirds, depending on length.
during the growing process. “Covering the
at a time.
plants in thick layers of mulch and dark
plastic ensures that no sunlight can reach The Janssen’s keep their asparagus extra TO PLATE
the spears, preventing photosynthesis sweet by washing it in their clean, cool Toss the white asparagus and peas lightly with some
from happening within the vegetable.” This farm well water. And if the product of the dressing to coat, adding salt and pepper as
inhibits it from turning green. Woodier doesn’t stand for itself, their customers needed. Plate the components, then add your ham
at the base and sweeter than the green, do. “Many of our German clientele come and toasted almonds.
Bentley admits that white asparagus does from all over because of our sweet-tasting Dress the plate with the remaining dressing.
require different cooking and handling, as produce. We even had one customer take Add any greens—arugula, mint, gem lettuces, mizuna—
shown in our white asparagus recipe. it to Germany in his suitcase so his family that you may like if you want a more salad-forward
could taste the difference!” dish. Enjoy!
8 alo magazine alo magazine 9
SUMMER AT ALO
alo magazine 11
TERROIR DID YOU KNOW?
ŤPortugal is ranked 10th for worldwide
WHERE IN THE WORLD IS CHRISTOPHER? wine production.
ŤIt is known best for port, Madeira, and
now emerging dry table wines.
ŤPortuguese wines are named after the
region they come from, not always the
grape varietal.
ŤPort is still handcrafted using ancient
artisanal methods.
Portugal is not just defined yourself in this Provence-
by port. Today it produces like environment, only much CURRENTLY ON OUR
world-class wines, both white quieter and slower, with only DINING ROOM TASTING MENU
and red, from all corners the sound of the sea and the
These wines are considered benchmark
of the country. Though we smell of fresh grilled fish and
examples of the quality wines of Portugal from
have few reference points meats to accompany time to internationally regarded producers.
in relation to France or Italy, stop and enjoy a bottle.
the Portuguese landscape is
Moving through the bustling 2015 ALVARINHO ‘CONTACTO,’
so varied, considering its size.
old town of Porto to the Douro ANSELMO MENDES, VINHO VERDE
Many of the varieties are quite
Valley, you feel transported A charming white wine of subtle yet sweet apple
ancient and exist nowhere else
into a sculpted Old World and pear flavours, though dry and crisp.
in the world. This is the wealth
garden of monumental Pairing: Seafood. Currently paired with a dish
of Portugal—rare, indigenous
proportions, filled with golden composed of madai fish with a toasted bread and
grapes like fine spices that,
earth and green vines. The chorizo crumble, parsley oil, lemon preserve with
when blended, create unique
reds can be both full and Marcona almond, and olives.
wines from region to region.
heavy, like those finely aged in
Wines of warmth and body neighbouring countries, as well
2013 MOSCATEL DE SETUBAL,
come from the southeastern as elegant, crimson-coloured BARBOSA E FILHOS
Alentejo, the biggest wine wines that defy the heat and This is a very fine dessert wine based on the lovely
region in the country. These intensity of this region. A and aromatic white moscato grape. Fortified and
are considered the “New UNESCO World Heritage Zone, barrel-aged, giving way to caramelised flavours of
H
World wines” of Portugal the Douro is truly remarkable, apricot and peach.
due to a recent revolution as are the vistas.
Pairing: Banana Parfait with Souffle and Earl
in winemaking techniques Grey dish.
Equally dazzling to the north
and knowledge. It’s worth a
of Douro, past Portugal’s
drive out to the historic city
spiritual city of Guimarães, is
ead Sommelier Christopher Sealy explores of Evora, and perhaps an
the diverse landscapes of Portugal and the
the Minho region, home to CURRENTLY ON OUR
overnight stay at a winery,
vinho verde wines. Providing MAIN WINE LIST
wines they produce. where the vast landscape of
a stark contrast to the heat of
A wine tour last fall took me to Portugal. I happily rising plains is dotted with 2011 DODA, DIRK NIEPOORT
Douro, the Minho is a world of
returned for the third time to the blue skies and vines and olive groves and AND ALVARO DE CASTRO
white wines: cool, refreshing,
infinite horizon of the Alentejo in the south; the mostly volcanic soil. A collaborative effort from winemakers Dirk
and even at times austere and
Niepoort of the Douro region and his counterpart,
verdant green region of the Minho to the north; As you drive north towards structured. Wines built for Álvaro de Castro from Dão. Niepoort created this
and the steep, terraced gold and green vineyards the city of Porto, along the cellaring. The region is lush, project in 2000 because he wanted to make a
along the banks of the Douro Valley River. The windswept western coastline with plenty of maritime rainfall great wine of Portugal, combining the power and
Douro, likely Portugal’s most famous wine region, and beautiful beaches, past and warm days throughout weight of the wines of Douro with the finesse of
is a harmonious combination of the monumental Sintra to the university town the rolling hills and low-lying the Dão. The blend is called Doda. For the 2011
forces of man and nature meeting to produce the of Coimbra, you pass vineyards mountains. If you love the hills vintage, they combined 60% of a Douro blend with
much celebrated port wine, and more recently offering up gently ripened and forests, this region is well 40% of a Dão blend to produce an exceptional and
some stunning table wine of great quality. white and red wines. Imagine worth a visit. age-worthy wine.
alo magazine 13
GIN TRIPTYCH
BY BAR MANAGER JOHN BUNNER
As Toronto moves into more clement weather and our guests’ taste preferences
turn towards lighter spirits, we offer them the chance to celebrate the various ways
in which gin can be enjoyed that won’t knock them out with too much alcohol.
Our latest triptych is a flight of three
mini cocktails that share a common
White Duke’s Death in
ingredient: gin. We borrow the term Negroni Hotel the Gulf
triptych from the medieval art world, 0.5 oz Beefeater Gin Gibson Stream
where it refers to a three-paneled 0.5 blanc vermouth Dry vermouth to rinse 1 oz By the Dutch
painting or carving, often used as an Genever
0.5 Suze Liqueur 1.5 oz No. 3 Gin
altarpiece, whose representations 0.5 oz lime juice
in some way relate to one another. In a mixing glass filled with Slice of lemon peel
ice, add all the ingredients. 5 dashes Angostura
The term also refers to three related Rinse a frozen 1.5-oz Bitters
Stir to mix and chill.
pieces that are appreciated together. liqueur glass with dry
Dash sugar syrup
In this spirit, we present our guests Pour into a small cocktail vermouth and fill with
glass and garnish with an frozen No. 3 Gin. Fill a small goblet with
with three different gin aperitifs.
orange peel. cracked ice. Add all the
Express lemon oil over the
One is a Gibson made in the fashion ingredients. Stir to mix.
top and drop in a small
of the Duke’s Hotel in London. The pickled onion. Chill and top with soda.
Duke’s Hotel’s martini is famous, Garnish with a mint sprig.
simply comprising a rinse of vermouth
and freezer-temperature, undiluted
gin. Thus, we rinse a vintage 1.5-oz
liqueur glass with vermouth, pour in
frozen No. 3 London Dry Gin, and drop
in a pickled onion.
Another is a White Negroni. As with
the classic Negroni, a third of this
drink is gin, here Beefeater. What
makes it ‘white’ is the swapping out of
red vermouth and Campari for blanc
vermouth and gentian-flavoured Suze,
respectively. We stir these down with ice
and serve it in a delicate cocktail glass.
The third is a Death in the Gulf
Stream. This cocktail, which is built in a
miniature snifter, is related to the gin
and tonic and includes many purple
lashings of Angostura bitters along
with a touch of lime and soda. What’s
distinctive about this drink is its use of
genever, a malty Dutch precursor to
modern London dry gin.
alo magazine 15
CHABICHOU 5
6
AROUND EVERGREEN BRICKWORKS
SATURDAY MARKET
TOWN ORD STREE
T
3
Toronto insider and chief concierge HARB
at the Four Seasons Hotel Toronto,
Liloo Alim weighs in on the best
places to gather provisions for the
perfect summer picnic basket. EET
GE STR
CO L L E
YOUN
With picnic-perfect weather around the DOUG’S PUBLIC
BAY S
BATH
KITCHEN
BEVE
corner, stop in at these local vendors for
G
all your needs. After that, Liloo suggests
TREET
STREE
URST
RLEY
you catch a ferry from the foot of Bay
Street and Queen’s Quay and head out to
T
SPAD
STREE
STREE
the Toronto Islands to enjoy your lunch. A
EET
3 GE STR
view of the city skyline is an added bonus! CO L L E
INA A
T
T
1. Saks Food Hall by Pusateri’s 4
VENU
UNIV
Hudson’s Bay Queens Street
pusateris.com KENSINGTON MARKET
E
EET W
ERSIT
Pusateri’s has been Toronto’s purveyor
AS STR
of fine foods for a long time, now DUND
expanding to many locations. This
Y AVE
is one of its most convenient halls.
Prepared fare to market fresh.
1
NUE
SAKS FOOD HALL
BY PUSATERI’S
2. St. Lawrence Market South
93 Front Street East
stlawrencemarket.com
A visit to the market is a must for
anyone visiting the city. Stop by for
freshly baked bagels, meats, cheese, TW
ST. LAWRENCE
MARKET SOUTH 2
fruit and vegetables, as well as the OND STREE
RICHM
famous ‘peameal bacon sandwich’ at
the Carousel Bakery.
3. Chabichou EET W
N STR
QUEE
196 Borden StreetŤ774 College Street REET W
IDE ST
Fresh breads, French pastries, ADELA
charcuterie, pies, and of course
cheese at either location.
4. Kensington Market
West of downtown Toronto, bordered by 5. Evergreen Brickworks 6. Doug’s Public Kitchen 7. Cheese Boutique
Spadina Avenue, Dundas Street, Bathurst Saturday Market 561 Marlee Street 45 Ripley Street
Street, and College Street 550 Bayview Avenue dougmcnish.com cheese.boutique.com
kensington-market.ca evergreen.ca A little off the beaten track, well- A little further afield but worth
Open every day and known for its You might have to fight for a parking known vegan chef and cookbook the trek! A 10,000-square-foot
discerning vendors that include spot to visit this market, which has author Doug McNish is known for his gourmet emporium offering
4Life Natural Foods for grains and grown tremendously to now include organic products. Coconut bacon, cheeses from around the globe
nuts and Blackbird Baking Co. for such popular staples as pickles, anyone? Catch his Public Kitchen as well as everything from foie
oven-fresh breads.
7 CHEESE BOUTIQUE baked goods, produce, fish and
meat, and flowers.
Saturdays at the Evergreen Market. gras to jams and olive oils.
16 alo magazine alo magazine 17
Jake Whilans is
a local furniture
maker who Publisher
provides services to MICHAEL GOLDMAN
residential, retail, Editor-in-Chief
and hospitality PAMELA JOUAN
sectors. He just Design Director
completed a SETON ROSSINI
sommelier station Managing Editor
and cutlery storage CHRISTIAN KAPPNER
unit for alo. Assistant Editor
STEPHANE HENRION
Senior Copy Editor
KELLY SUZAN WAGGONER
EMERGING TORONTO: Contributing Writer
PAMELA JOUAN
JAKE WHILANS Photography
NIKKI LEIGH MCKEAN PHOTOGRAPHY
Tell us about the sommelier station. Overall alo experience? It was a OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALO
Head sommelier Christopher Sealy pleasure to work with the alo team;
needed more surface area to properly I appreciate their commitment to
decant and store bottles of wine. so passionately perfecting the alo
Advertising Inquiries
718.288.8688
CAVIAR CENTRE INC.
Together, we developed a cabinetry experience. I tend to obsess over detail HauteLife Press THE ULTIMATE SOURCE FOR FRESH
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Imperial Osetra caviar is a rare sturgeon
unit. Another opportunity to improve virtually lost myself in the process! held responsible for any errors
workflow! It features 11 individual or omissions. —CHEF PATRICK KRISS caviar which used to be exclusively
Define yourself as an artist in reserved for the czars of Russia. Known
drawers, each lined with leather in an Printed and bound in Canada.
five words. Mediator between form for its delicious nutty and creamy flavour,
effort to both protect and dampen © 2017 All rights reserved.
and material. Reproduction without permission Imperial Osetra caviar is great for any
the acoustics of the cutlery. A carved
top surface snuggly stores service Tool of your craft you can’t live is strictly prohibited. occasion or event.
trays that the staff supply with each without? The romantic answer is my
set. Built entirely out of white oak, Auriou rasp, a hand tool for shaping the Caviar Centre carries an extensive
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efficiently in a contemporary context.
The two pieces match? Correct. CONTACT US
They share a similar design, matching If not an artist... I would be a ŤLQIR#FDYLDUFHQWUHFRP
custom brass pulls, and both are made helicopter pilot.
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(FSC)–certified lumber. The soapstone jakewhillans.com. Studio visits are Toronto, Ontario M5V 2L6 Toro, imperial osetra
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18 alo magazine© 2017 Nestle Waters North America Inc.
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THE FINE DINING WATERS THE FINE DINING WATERS
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