28 EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW: MARIANO VIVANCO PINAIDER: THE ART OF HANDWRITING BALENCIAGA GUCCI ALPS RESORTS BABY SUMO SUPERWATCHES SHOPPING - Force One
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
28
© Mariano Vivanco
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW: MARIANO VIVANCO PINAIDER: THE ART OF HANDWRITING
BALENCIAGA GUCCI ALPS RESORTS BABY SUMO SUPERWATCHES SHOPPING
G
I N
RT 0
A 0
ST 0,0
N
L A € 19
F -P M
F RO
O F
P O RTO MONTENEGRO’S
N EWEST NEIGHBOU RHOOD
CONTEMPORARY URBAN-INSPIRED RESIDENCES
SIRO - A FITNESS-INFUSED HOTEL AND WELLNESS HUB
MONTENEGRIN CITIZENSHIP BY INVESTMENT AVAILABLE
bokaplace@portomontenegro.com
www.bokaplace.com
EDITO
The storm is passing, and the ship is starting to sail again in
the magnificent sea that has always welcomed us with love
and beauty. And at Force One we are happy to confirm our
role as skipper of exclusivity, luxury and joie de vivre.
FORCE ONE This is also a somewhat special edition, with a slightly
reduced number of pages, but with the quality of content
that has always been our North Star.
The journey begins on the most iconic yacht of the past thirty
#28 years: Lady Moura who welcomes us for the last cocktail before
the lockdown, an incredible Force One Night.
It then continues by stopping by two giants of style: Balenciaga
and Gucci.
The correspondence with our loved ones is made with the
elegant paper (and not only) creations of Pinaider.
With a lot of imagination ;-)) we take our boat to the French Alps
for the usual partnership with the best hotels and private chalets
in Megève and Couchevel.
And since this period is so special, and has made us understand
even more the importance of time and how we use it, then a stop
on our cruise is dedicated to the discovery of the most amazing
watches of these months.
And if you want a photographic souvenir of this magnificent trip,
we may ask our personal photographer Mariano Vivanco... ;-)
Have a good trip...
Luca Marotta
Publisher and Creative Director
C U L L I N A N D I A M O N D S
6
Publisher and Creative Director
Luca Marotta
Editorial Director
E X Andrea Dini
I N D Art Director
Florent Sammut
Cover photo
© Mariano Vivanco
Red Rose 001 (detail)
Fashion Editor
Alberto Corrado
Jewelry and Watches Editor
08 Laura Canepa
f Monaco
he Lady o 12
Senior Contributor
t w ith t 0
Alice Gardner
al m omen d i t i o n 202
speci Expe
Editorial Contributors
t - A n t i fi c 16
Even e Keith Francis
S c i
g - O ceano Vicky Morris
Yacht
in vanco
Manuela Schinaia
n o V i 22
- M a ria
ew
Intervi
Photographers
n
to n / Tasche Andrea Cabiale
a b y Ne w 24
Boo k - B Karin Creuzet
mporary
Bruno De Marquis
v e C o n te Valentina de Gaspari
Art - Pa n a c o M others 26 Fresh Influence
a l M o
Internation
Photography -
Francis Hammond
Mesi
28
Fashio n - B al en ci ag a Daniele Oberrauch
Jean-François Romero
Fashion - Gucci: Culture of the time 32 Luca Rotondo
Jean-Michel Sordello
Alex Stephen Teuscher
Luxury - Pineider, the art of handwriting 36 Pierre Thiaville
Anne-Emmanuelle Thion
Venues - L'Apogée / Cour Robert Yager
chevel
40
Venues - Floco Translations
n s de Sel / Megè Marsglobus
ve
Venues - Z 42
a nnier Hot open to translation Ltd.
els Le Cha
Venues let / Megève
- M de M 44
Video
egève Lukasz Cholewiak
Venue
s - Mad
emois 45
Web
Watch elle Gr
es - Th ay / Can Force One
Watc e w atch a nes
hes - mateu 46 Advertising & Development
It's ti rs dig
Spec me t ital fa contact@force-one.net
ial - S o enj nzine +33 (0)6 40 61 02 05
hop o y tim 47
ping e! Colour Separation
Thomas Bourgoin
48
ISSN 2271-4111
52
www.force-one.net
Life
in Blue...!
sapphire Cachemire 10.817 cts
SOLD 660 000 €
necklace sapphire Cachemire
Mo nte- Car lo
SOLD 1 850 000 € Auction house
upcoming auctions
free appraisals
sapphire Cachemire 18.42 cts
Contact Expert :
Cabinet Arnaud Beauvois - Paris SOLD 1 110 000 €
Tél : 00 33(0)1 53 04 90 74
ARNAUD@BEAUVOIS.INFO
10-12 QUAI ANTOINE 1ER - 98000 MONACO - Tél : 00 377 93 25 88 89 - email : acdelaroche@hvmc.com
8 A SPECIAL MOMENT WITH THE LADY OF MONACO By Manuela Schinaia On the 22nd of September 2020, “Force One Night” private cocktail took place on yachting icon M/Y Lady Moura, in the harbour of Monaco. It’s been a very special occasion: for the first time in her 30 years’ history, the prestigious boat has been the site of an event not organized by the owner. During all these years in fact, the yacht has always had the reputation to be somehow “inaccessible”: only those invited by the family have had the chance to visit her. Launched in 1990 by Blohm & Voss, Lady Moura was, at the time, the most expensive and innovative yacht in the world. The 104.85-metre yacht comprises of a hefty beam of 19 metres with a total gross tonnage of 6,359 GT, 20 cabins for 17 guests and 72 crews.
9
© Bruno De Marquis
But today a new story is going to be written in her diary: she’s now for sale.
That’s why it was time to mark this change with a proper celebration. The prestigious Monegasque agency Force One had the
privilege to be the co-host of this historical moment, in close partnership with business related B2C event specialist Investor Media
Monaco, organizer of an exceptional three-days event, “Private Rendez-vous”, which included a B2C business lunch at Hermitage
Hotel, and a business networking dinner at Club39 Montecarlo.
About one hundred selected guests have participated to the opening night onboard Lady Moura, of course respecting social
distancing and current coronavirus regulation.10 Luca Marotta - CEO of Force One said: “dream big” and to prove that, by respecting all the sanitary “A cocktail is not just an occasion to drink champagne and to measures, it is possible to organize a cocktail and to create show our latest outfit. During a cocktail people gather, share memories, business deals and to live even more than before.” thoughts, ideas and experiences; different individuals with different paths exchange their visions. Investor Media Monaco CEO Andrea Dini and Luca Marotta In these difficult times, life can’t be frozen, and ambitions welcomed, among others, Formula 1 driver Valtteri Bottas, can’t be thrown away. as well as the former prime minister of Spain José Maria Force One and Investor Media Monaco decided to continue to Aznar, and other VIP coming from Monaco and abroad: live, to socialize, and to develop business. It is a choice to still London, Madrid and even the United States. This event
11
© Andrea Cabiale
was so worth it, and once in a lifetime moment, that some potential client. Every element played a role in this success:
guests planned uncomfortable trips in order to make it. whether is the hosts, the sponsors, the guests, the crew,
the food, the music, and the photographs.
The soirée has been made possible thanks to the amazing
support of prestigious yacht broker Camper & Nicholsons But more than everything, the real star of the night has
International, and the sponsorship of green energy been Lady Moura herself, with her beautiful silhouette,
investment platform Assetly Investment Partners. They stylish interiors, decks and of course her timeless and
had the occasion to share their values and to deliver their elegant vibes.
message to an audience representing exactly their target12 OCEANOSCIENTIFIC MEDITERRANEAN CONTAMINANTS EXPEDITION 2020 By Andrea Dini The OceanoScientific Mediterranean Contaminants Expedition 2020 ended on Thursday 29 October at the honorary pontoon of the Yacht Club de Monaco, from which the AMAALA EXPLORER maxi-catamaran set sail on Thursday 15 October thanks to partnerships with AMAALA and Biologique Recherche, as well as to the sponsors of the OceanoScientific France and Monaco associations. That same evening, Yvan Griboval, the initiator and director of the CO2-free oceanographic campaign by sail under the scientific direction of the Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer (Ifremer), took stock of this sailing expedition from Monaco to Porto Cervo (Sardinia), Barcelona (Spain) and La Seyne-sur-Mer (France), during a dinner conference at the Yacht Club de Monaco. At this occasion, the naviator - explorer specified his future objectives as president of the OceanoScientific associations and the OceanoScientific Expeditions director. "When I returned from the OceanoScientific Expedition of the Ocean which became LOVE THE OCEAN® written, 2016-2017, I was convinced of the need to adopt a composed and performed by the young Monegasque common denominator of Humankind as a means of artist Olivia Dorato," Yvan Griboval explained during the raising the awareness of the public at large about the dinner conference. LOVE THE OCEAN® was broadcast for imperative need to better understand the Ocean in order the first time and presented to the Sovereign Prince at to better preserve it. I thought music would be the perfect the arrival of the AMAALA EXPLORER maxi-catamaran in medium. That was how we first thought of an Anthem Monaco on 28 October.
13
© Mesi
"However, since last spring's lockdown and even more at "It is too personal an act, even selfish considering the time
the end of these two weeks of sailing, I am now convinced required for the preparation (over two years), and then
thatthe best way to make the world population aware of sailing (four to six months). Three years and a lot of money
the importance of the Ocean is to help oceanographic and to attempt a personal "feat", seems somewhat pointless. It
scientific research focusing on the well-being of human beings would be three years lost for our oceanographic activities
and their health. We shall continue to collect physico-chemical for the benefit of Health, also lost for our thirteen-year-old
data at the Ocean - Atmosphere interface, in particular triplets. They need their father's presence too much at this
thanks to the new version of the OSC System. But we shall time of life when their adolescent dreams form the future..."
now go much further in the scientific approach during our
next OceanoScientific Expeditions by sail without any CO2 Drawing from the lessons learnt during the
emissions or waste. To do so, we are working hard with the OceanoScientific Mediterranean Contaminants Expedition
Centre Scientifique de Monaco (CSM) and are planning a 2020, Yvan Griboval insisted on several parameters
forthcoming OceanoScientific Expedition - this time on the which will now guide the organisation of the next
theme of coral and in the Red Sea - setting sail on the Thursday OceanoScientific sailing expeditions, scheduled to be by
of the next Monaco Ocean Week, in March 2021". catamaran rather than monohull.
"The corollary of that decision is that I shall not be able to sail "By having on-board Linn Sekund, the marine biologist of the
around Antarctica during the Southern Winter as I wanted so Team OceanoScientific, we realised the importance of having
much to do!" said Yvan Griboval, not without emotion. a scientist by our side to optimise the efficiency of our sailing14
expedition. Similarly, the presence of the On Board Reporter Nick Naples said, “We are proud to sponsor the
(OBR) Manu Valadés Escobar allowed us to send quality photo OceanoScientific Expedition. It perfectly aligns with our
and video images to the social networks, and then use them goal to create a luxury destination that is a global leader in
for a well-illustrated conference just a few hours after our sustainable tourism.”
return to Monaco. It is essential to increase the audience for our
adventures and, in doing so increase their impact tenfold to Brendan Jack took the floor to recall: "On the AMAALA
raise awareness about the need to preserve the Ocean". site in the Red Sea we have one of the finest remaining
coral reefs in the World. However, as with all of the world’s
"We dedicated each port call to our local partners so that reefs, it too faces the same climate change and human
they could communicate about their own actions to raise activity based threats, such as sea temperature rise, ocean
awareness about Ocean preservation. We are therefore acidification, and pollution… For these reasons, the
extremely pleased to have worked with One Ocean importance of the scientific research being carried out by
Foundation in Porto Cervo; with the Fundación Ecomar the OceanoScientific team during this Expedition, and the
chaired by Theresa Zabell and with the Fundació Navegació equally important analysis of the collected sample data by
Oceànica Barcelona (FNOB) in Spain; with the Toulon Ifremer, cannot be emphasised enough. Our Oceans - the
Provence Mediterranean Metropolitan Authority (TPM) and Med and the Red - are connected. We share common issues
its eight ports, including that of La Seyne - Brégaillon where and we shall share common solutions".
the AMAALA EXPLORER was docked. Without forgetting the
faithful support of the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, On Thursday, 29 October, the line of twelve exclusive
which provided its backing for the exhibition of the plankton products from the LOVE THE OCEAN® collection was
fresco produced on the quayside of the Yacht Club de Monaco unveiled, produced by 727 Sailbags with recycled sails
by the OceanoScientific Monaco with the photos of the (mainsail, solent and staysail) from the OceanoScientific
underwater photographer Greg Lecœur." Explorer BOOGALOO with which Yvan Griboval made
his single-handed round-the-world OceanoScientific
On the return to Monaco, AMAALA, the main Partner for the Expedition 2016-2017, the first oceanographic campaign
OceanoScientific Mediterranean Contaminants Expedition by sail without CO2 emissions for sixty days under the 40th
2020, was represented by Nick Naples, Chief Executive Southern Parallel.
Officer and Brendan Jack, Chief Sustainability Officer.
www.ocenoscientific.org
www.amaala.comChandelier Earrings - Divine Collection
White Gold, Diamonds 2,60 ct / Sapphires 43,85 ct
Photo © P. Fitte
Showroom: 5 Bis Avenue Princess Alice - Monaco
+377 93 50 24 26 info@vitale1913.com
www.vitale1913.com16
CREATIVITY,
CONFIDENCE,
COHERENCE
MARIANO VIVANCO’S 3 “C”
By Luca Marotta
A meeting with one of the most influential photographers of the
last twenty years: Fashion, nudes, nature… photography, video,
fine art... creativity has no bounds when you’re a free spirit.
I met with Mariano Vivanco during the preparations for his new exhibition
at the G&M Design Gallery of Monte Carlo, the black box created by Tina
Green in the Principality with the singular aim of, in the proprietor’s words,
“exhibiting what we like, choosing only what spurs the senses, not caring for
passing fads or commercial promise”.
The atmosphere is a mixture of tension and excitement, as you’d expect at
that stage of the preparations. People everywhere, the gallery director, her
assistants, the fitters taking measurements, drilling holes in walls... even
some curious -by like the postman … and a young model who’d heard
about the photographer’s arrival and had come in the hope of meeting him.
And me too, obviously.17 In all the bustle, the calmest, most tranquil “in control” person was just him, Mariano Vivanco. The photographer who’s done celebrated campaigns for Dolce & Gabbana and the Royal Opera House, directed videos for Versace and Lenny Kravitz, isn’t the least bit phased by all the confusion: he’s sending messages, giving instructions about where to put the beautiful Darbyshire frames, dispensing advice and, naturally, answering his interviewer’s questions. F.1.M.: What do you think were the big turning points in your career, in terms of both professional success and artistic development? M.V.: There are no big turning points I believe, it is more like a series of small ones. Professional and artistic developments both go hand in hand. From very early on, even when I first started, I was photographing nudes. I was 18 years old. I would ask my friends and people I knew would be ok with it. I guess in the back of my mind I was already thinking books, and exhibitions. So I’ve always had a link, and to me, when I’m shooting, and a photo resonates, I know it could end up on a wall. It’s a very particular feeling: when I see something and I’m shooting it, it just becomes, like, three- dimensional in front of me, and in front of the camera as well, and that’s when I know that that photo is worthy of a longer existence. Throughout my career I’ve been foremost a commercial and advertising photographer. That’s been my bread and butter, and my love and passion. But over the last five years I’ve really focused on photos that could look good on a wall, and photos that people could, perhaps, desire. F.1.M.: So, would you say you prefer art photos now, rather than fashion photography? M.V.: I’m multimedia, I like it all. I sincerely love it all. You can’t have one thing without the other. For example, take the work that I’ve done for a magazine such as Harper’s Bazaar: they gave me a very large budget to create a picture of Rihanna, on top of an airplane in Los Angeles. I did it for a magazine. Can it be a piece of art? Probably not, but what I got out of that is that I’ve learned about big scale photography, to manage a team of fifty to sixty people, a huge budget, amazing research etc. I love doing research for photographs. That was one of the main experiences I had during my Harper’s Bazaar yeas with Glenda Bailey as editor in chief. When she pushed me to a point where we both be ardently debating on the phone. But seriously, we had a great time and I learn a lot from her. Grateful for that experience. Because for example, some art work I will be doing in 2021, will be utilising all that large production experience. Hopefully to create imagery that could be deemed worthy of hanging on a wall. F.1.M.: And what about your movies? Filming is a very different type of work. M.V.: I’ve must say I’m very comfortable with a wide range of media... I’m as comfortable taking pictures with my phone as having a large team of people working with me. F.1.M.: It’s true that phones today have reached such a high level of definition you can do professional work with them. M.V.: Indeed, I met a highly respected art dealer in London, one night at The Arts Club, and she was wearing a coat that looked like a duvet. I said go stand on the wall so I can take a picture and she did this most amazing pose; when I showed her the picture and her office ended up ordering a fine art print of it, so… yes, phones are good! F.1.M.: Tell us about the difference, if you find a difference, between shooting men and women. I’m asking this because it seems to me to find a different approach. It might simply be my personal perception, but do you find a difference from a professional point of view? M.V.: Actually, it’s an interesting question because, you know, being a gay photographer you immediately think “oh, he likes to shoot boys” but again, everything’s got so many layers: there are females that inspire me nude, the same as some boys, I generally like fashion photography with both sexes…Could I say my guy is a tiny bit more “earthy” and could I say my girl is a tiny bit more “glamourous”? Yes. This is how I see things. But I really like everything to be mixed together as well.
18
White Hibiscus
2015 - FB Silver Gelatin - 115x142 cm
F.1.M.: And going on with the game of comparison: I see that, except for
commercial, humans are always black and white pictures, while your
flowers for example, are mostly in colour.
M.V.: It really depends, at the end of the day I just want to make the most
beautiful image possible. The “Russian Hats” for example, they had to be in
colour. Yeah, that was a really interesting shoot. We were doing a shoot for
Russian Vogue, and the shoot had ended, the car was ready to pick me up
for the airport. Then I looked, on the table, and there were these gorgeous,
gorgeous Russian hats, and I said to the fashion editor, Ekaterina Mukhina,
what are these for? She said she’d brought them just in case we wanted to
try them out. I had thirty minutes or else I’d be late for my flight. We quickly
hung a backdrop next to a window. One of the dresses we even put on
backwards, and I only did about tten frames of each picture. But it was a
great moment, when the skies opened up and let me capture that. It was
really really special. And they had to be in colour of course. Photos have a
life of their own...
F.1.M.: Do you see your coming years moving towards more artistic work,
rather than commercial?
M.V.: Not really. I think it’s healthy to go with your vibes. I love doing fashion
photography, I love doing portraits, I love doing still lives, I love nudes, I
don’t want any confinements, I just want to do as I feel.Lonely Brain 2015 - Giclée print on Epson Semi-Gloss - 62x76 cm
20
Russian Hat V
2011 - Inkjet on Hahnemuhle Fine Art Baryta - 122x156 cm21
Santeria XIV
2017 - FB Silver Gelatin - 116x90 cm
F.1.M.: And how do you see the current situation? It’s almost a year now
that it’s been so hard to do any work. Do you think this crisis will have an
impact on the creativity? Maybe the reduction of the budgets will force us
to raise our creativity?
M.V.: I don’t want to be annoyingly optimistic, but I do believe there’s
something good in everything.
This year has tested every one of us, to the ground. I’ve lost a bunch of
big jobs. I lost them, but my partner said 'don’t worry, we’re okay'. So at the
beginning of the confinement I just retouched a job , you know that kept
me going, kept me sane, and spent a lot more time with my family. You have
to stick to the good things you have in life… When the lockdown eased, a
friend of mine, a famous nightclub performer from London Daniel Lismore,
suggested I watch a movie on Steven Arnold, a Los Angeles photographer,
most famous in the eighties, and I discovered his work, and I loved it and I
got inspired again! So when King Kong magazine told me to shoot whatever
I wanted, we shot a work loosely based on his photography.
So to answer your question: this is a moment when creatives have, I feel,
been to some low depths, and now, hopefully, will do more what We feel,
more what We want, and what is important to us.
The interview ended with a visit to the exhibition, the ritual selfies, a
few words of advice to the model, and for me the feeling of having
met someone who still communicates, real, sincere emotions. And that
everything’s going to be fine, you just have to be yourself...
25 BY MARIANO VIVANCO
Until 30th of January 2021 - G&M Design Gallery
11 avenue Princesse Grace - 98000 Monaco
info@gmdesign.pro22
BABY
NEWTON
By Keith Francis
On the occasion of the centenary of the birth of
Helmut Newton, TASCHEN books celebrates one
of fashion photography’s most controversial and
original figures in a limited BABY SUMO edition of the
celebrated 1999 SUMO.
He was born Helmut Neustädter, into a middle-class family
in Weimar republic Berlin, where decadence and smoky
nostalgia were the order of every film, poster, song or cabaret
▲ Shoe, Monte Carlo, 1983 of the day. In love with Marlene Dietrich, so he said, from the
Helmut Newton © The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography time he attended the American School, where he went at
▼ Willi, Fashion Mansfield, British Vogue, London, 1967 the age of 12, he met her years later when they were both in
Helmut Newton © The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography
New York and he was to take her portrait.
Newton was known for a signature style of photography.
His images, often in stark black and white, were calculated
to shock, featuring tall, blond, sometimes naked women
in heels, perhaps illuminated by headlights or trapped in a
dark alley. Bondage, sadomasochism, voyeurism, murder,
pornography, prostitution: each was exploited and explored
in his photos over the years. Models were depicted in
ways that few readers expected: in orthopaedic corsets,
or in wheelchairs, or on all fours wearing a dog collar. That
transgressive female icon became Newton’s brand, his
boilerplate. He photographed women for Vogue, worked for
mainstream erotic magazines like Playboy, and published
books of nudes that brought high prices once their limited
editions sold out. His photographs challenged what was
commercially publishable in the 1960s, and when fashion
needed some frisson, he could usually provide it.
Some female critics, including well-known German
feminist Alice Schwarzer, decried Newton's nude women
photographs as "sexist to the point of racist and fascist." His
detractors gave him the monikers "King of Kink" and "Prince
of Porn". Guided by a passion for the strength and allure of
the female form and an unquenchable taste for the risqué,
Mr. Newton reflected the sexual revolution of the 1960's and
70's, which coincided with his rise to fame. He photographed
some of the most beautiful women in the world in poses
that emphasized their sexuality, often with an accompanying
sense of danger and violence.23
© Luca Rotondo
Created on the occasion of the
centenary of Helmut Newton’s birth
and TASCHEN’s 40th anniversary,
this spectacular new edition edited
by June Newton is now available.
Shrunk to exactly half the size of the
famous 1999 original, the “BABY
SUMO” is no less glamorous: With
more than 400 breath-taking
Iman, American Vogue, Hotel Negresco, Nice, 1989
Helmut Newton © The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography images, reproduced and printed to
the latest standards, it still has all
the scope of a private exhibition
of photographs. It is likewise
By 1975, Newton was exhibiting his fashion portraits, both in colour and black- published in a limited edition of
and-white, in New York, Paris and Amsterdam. Japan soon followed, and the 10,000 copies and comes with a
popularisation of his particular fetishistic interests extended to global tours. detailed booklet documenting
the making of this major
The meticulous quality of his work, and his success in crossing fashion with publishing event. Philippe Starck
transgression, guaranteed Newton's inclusion in major collections such as has once again designed the
London's Victoria and Albert museum, the Bibliothèque Nationale and the Musée accompanying book stand, this
d'Art Moderne in Paris, the Nikon Photo Gallery, Zurich, and New York's Museum time including a pedestal, as an
of Modern Art and the Fashion Institute of Technology. In the US, Newton was ideal way to display the volume.
represented by the gallerist Xavier Moreau, whom he took - in a rare portrait of a
man - swathed in a large black coat and behind black sunglasses, his "girlfriend"
across his lap, naked but for her black bra and stilettos.
Helmut Newton
Newton, 83, died on January 23, 2004 in Los Angeles when he apparently lost
Baby Sumo
control of his car and it crashed into a wall. He was laid to rest in the Friedenau Hardcover, 35.8 x 50 cm,
cemetery in his native Schöneberg district, just four plots away from where screen 9,80 kg, 464 pages,
legend and fellow Berliner, Marlene Dietrich, is buried. with bookstand
and pedestal, 74 cm
Dear Helmut, TASCHEN Store
the layout finalized by June looks terrific. 2 rue de Buci
It will be the coolest photobook ever published… 75006 Paris
and it will be a milestone for generations
of photographers… Tél : +33 01 40 51 79 22
Store-Paris@taschen.com
Benedikt Taschen’s Email to Hehlmut Newton www.taschen.com24
Othelo Gervacio "Bleu"
2019, Oil on linen 152,4 121,9 cm
HOUSE OF FINE ART
PAVE CONTEMPORARY
PAVE Contemporary is a new division of HOFA Gallery and will be dedicated exclusively to supporting global emerging
talent, with its key objective to promote diversity and inclusivity, whilst providing a platform for artists to create and
exhibit across HOFA Gallery's international galleries in London and Mykonos.
CURATED is a new art exhibition series presented by CURATED joines forces with art collectors selected for
HOFA Gallery and PAVE Contemporary designed to put their dedication, foresight and support of emerging
a spotlight on hand-picked seasoned art collectors and artist careers.
provide a platform for the emerging artists. Following the success of the first exhibition "Inner
Escapes", the second exhibition in the series is
At the heart of CURATED is a deep appreciation of "American Roots", lead by an American art collector
the symbiotic relationship between artists and art Francesco Bena. Bena is fascinated by the diversity
collectors, and the seismic benefits that flow from it. of the American culture and the polar opposition
PAVE Contemporary recognise both the artist and art coexisting within its emerging art scene. The exhibition
collector as visionaries who by creating and projecting American Roots will explore the rich and complex
art enrich societies and cultures, catalysing change, tapestry of the country through the works of four
evolution, and awareness. chosen artists.25
UFO907 "Triple rush"
2020, Aerosol spray on canvas 193 x168 cm
thehouseoffineart.com
Mark Posey, "Guilty pleasures with fern" KC Ortiz "Savage beast"
2020, Acrylic and spray painting paint on canvas 152,4 x 137,2 cm 2020, Acrylic paint on canvas 100 x 100 cm26
▼ Anette Bjerke Friedly (Norway)
▼ Fern Ferreo (Zimbabwe)
▲ Bruna Treves (Brazil)
MONACO MOTHERS
ILLUSTRATE THE ART OF FAMILY LIFE
IN THE PRINCIPALITY
By Vicky Morris
One of the things that people rarely talk about is how family-oriented the Principality of Monaco is. It may be known
as a destination for those seeking the pinnacle of luxury lifestyle and glamour, but it has also been chosen as a home
by many families from all around the world.
It is a place to enjoy life to the full but also an educational, The economy is very dynamic and is always looking to
safe and exciting place to bring up a child. The pleasant the future, thanks to the government of H.S.H. Prince
climate encourages outdoor living, the historically close Albert II. Monaco has been renowned for years for its
relationship with the sea can’t fail to stir an interest in actions to protect the environment and, in recent years,
sailing and marine life, and the proximity to France and the Prince has committed to transforming the Principality
Italy offers the chance to explore other cultures. Childhood into a Smart City. A balance is struck between history and
in this beautiful part of the world can be extra-special. progress, as life here respects the old traditions whilst also
emphasizing the need to move forward with technology
Now, this less well-known side of Monaco has been and innovation. This approach caters for the various
encapsulated in a book, “International Mothers of Monaco” generations of a family and helps create a lifestyle that
by the photographer Valentina Selvaggia de Gaspari, a enriches and appeals to mother and child alike.
mother herself, that brings together 5 years of work in
50 portraits of mothers and their children. There are 140 Valentina explains her motivation for this book and her
different nationalities living in this tiny country and many desire to promote the ‘art of family life’ as practised in
of them are represented here, which in turn highlights the Monaco: “Living with my family in the Principality, I was
diversity of Monaco’s culture and daily life that attracts the able to appreciate the art of family living that Monaco
kind of family that is often fortunate enough to be able to offered. I worked with mothers of many nationalities that
choose anywhere in the world to live. are represented here, and who were, like me, very happy27
© Valentina de Gaspari
▲ Sooyun Kim (South-Korea)
Alexandra Schuck (USA) ►
to raise their children in this magnificent country that offers us
a great quality of life, numerous sports and cultural activities,
first-rate schools, safety and a wonderful openness when it
comes to thinking internationally.”
“International Mothers of Monaco” is a photographic art
book, produced with the support of the Monaco Tourist
Board and a host of prestigious sponsors, to highlight the
multicultural environment of the Principality of Monaco
through 50 magnificent portraits of mothers of different
nationalities with their children living in Monaco. The book
will be launched in March 2021 and you can pre-order a copy
before 31st January 2021
Pre-order the book :
www.internationalmothersofmonaco.com© Robert Yager 28
29 BALENCIAGA A FASHION THAT TAKES CARE OF ITSELF By Alberto Corrado Both dystopia and utopia are human constructs, and as such can be dealt with on a human level by a creative spirit who can either exacerbate them or contemplate how they could be transformed. This is the source of Demna Gavsalia’s awareness of the need to create collections with strong ties to reality, leaving no space for the aesthetic loopholes of fashion. Notwithstanding our collective efforts, when we look at itself a dystopia. An intrusion to be avoided. Finding a the word around us the landscape looks very different vein of optimism in what we’re being offered during this to what we’d like. The dream of fashion rising, rising extended period of lockdown, or a ray of hope to distract again and then falling over the last twenty years, has our gaze even for a moment, has become a systematically given way to an omnipresent, insistent fear. That ours is impossible challenge. a reality short of expedients sufficiently convincing to mitigate its hardship. At this point, the utopia of fashion The fashion houses themselves and their marketeering we first defined then obsessively followed through the systems strive to force interactions with customers aesthetic trends we attempted to create, has revealed through captivating promotions, but often to no avail.
30 At this conjuncture, the answers we’ve been seeking in these years of obsessive accumulation of clothing, much of which forgotten on the shelves of wardrobe, could be found in the illogical realm of creativity, long considered the antithesis of reason and fashion’s utopian alternatives. On the battlefield of fashion, this acute imbalance is confronted in every creative process; processes, as everyone knows, not moments of abstraction but of total immersion in the reality that surrounds us. Indeed, ever more often the final concept of a collection, as presented at the moment of the show, bears little resemblance to the original concept, proposed as the first step in a series of activities, of which only the next step is known. Demna Gvsalia, Balenciaga’s creative director, is perhaps spokesperson of an underground style that sees this dystopia simply as a latter-day deviation to be mitigated, re-formed and encapsulated into a composite creativity that pays tribute to the fashion’s very origins by covering the evident, ultimately disorienting chaos the customer is normally subjected to. His creative process is based on forward-looking vision and pure art, where both utopia and dystopia are human constructs, and as such necessarily relative to the imaginary, the concept of abstraction. Abstraction wouldn’t be so hard if we could choose to abstract in a negative or positive sense, and it’s on this choice that Demna works, offering precise results with due concession to art and the need to dress, to create a present capable of transposition into a future. Playing with the proportions of the garments, taking them to extremes, distorting them, altering them always with veiled but incontrovertible pragmatism, Demna Gvsalia for Balenciaga brings the weapons of freedom, synthesis, imagination and free will to bear on the temptation of boredom, confusion and celebration of a non-existent aesthetic. “I'd like to see our garments in the wardrobes of women who don't care about fashion, but about themselves and their own needs,” says Gvasalia, who’s already delivered the collection to the best international boutiques. Though heavily stylized on the catwalk, his approach is in fact contrary to the absolute styling currently prevailing everywhere: hence he doesn’t focus on the assembly but the individual piece. His clients are those who dress in paroxysmal jackets and cowboy thigh-boots, Amazons in oversize overcoats and patched jeans, proud and defiant, ready for the night of any city. The key lies in terse authenticity, fruit of stubborn independence, both methodological and material, of the reality we live and perceive, which can only be faced with a vein of optimism and creative madness, coarse perhaps but certainly encouraging; in the pure creative hope that only an art form like fashion can inspire freedom in an uncertain future.
www.balenciaga.com
3132
FASHION.
© Daniele Oberrauch
CULTURE OF THE TIME
By Alberto Corrado
The concept of sensuality is increasingly linked with what a person is capable of
creating, and no longer to just a look. With Alessandro Michele, Gucci senses this
need to express individuality not simply through pure aesthetics, but through a code
of communication that mirrors the intellectual and cultural sector within which it
operates, delineating an intellectual elite, capable finally of dictating style.
The culture of fashion as value. Intelligence as a tool. Intellectualism as an icon.
After a grave period of disavowal during this isolation, these concepts are regaining global
value. Let’s start with the easy definition of culture. More often than not what first springs to
mind is an image of an old library, or the silent corridors of a gallery. Places where everything
has a cost far greater than its practical value, left to a Wildean reminiscence. Yet every day in this
weird period of limbo, it seems that rediscovering the values of the days of yore has become
something of a trend, like the floral shirts of the ‘seventies, pantsuits of the ‘eighties and biker
jackets of the ‘nineties. Risky comparisons, to be sure.
But all with an element in common: every decade has its distinctive inclination that expresses,
represents and exorcises the fears of society, in any given epoch.33
34
© Daniele Oberrauch
That’s the way it’s always been, and the very history of this intent, both openly in interviews and implicitly in his
custom teaches it. The interesting aspect of this period, collections and how they’re presented. A creative who’s
this intense moment in human terms, is that the few survived a highly unsettling economic crisis, profiling
have finally understood the importance of a knowledge the need for depth in the creation of fashion through an
of culture, intended as the capacity to learn. Mental over-exposure of artisan culture in the sartorial cut. And
openness to the variety of possible experiences, against with a brand philosophy no longer seasonal but with a
the useless, sterile notionality typical of those who look depth in time, the time of people: from youth to old age. A
but can’t see, listen but can’t hear. Suddenly the blank new, ironic and fresh way of expressing a style embracing
sheet and the pen, cycling or jogging in nature, a book both the imaginary and the concrete discovery of the
read in the silence of a room, have replaced the toned everyday. We witnessed the first act of this woke approach
body fresh from the gym, the bodacious breast enhanced in February this year, when Gucci celebrated the magical
by a clingy dress. ritual of the fashion show: a sacred, irreplaceable liturgy
transubstantiating creative thought into product offered
The concept of sexiness, attraction, has always been up to a community of emancipated spectators. Of this
linked with what a person is capable of doing, creating, ritual we’d like to show what he loves to hide. Indeed, he
and can no longer be mere appearance. Here we have threw over the tables and brought the models to centre
Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, who’s stage: that collective intelligence, inspired and sensitive,
now conquering an increasingly wide audience, not only that makes the enchantment of beauty possible.
in numerical terms, but also in terms of social standing
and age. Perhaps creatives, too, are feeling that need The second act took shape during the May advertising
to express their individuality no simply through purely campaign, in yet another effort to overturn the routine
aesthetic instruments, but using a code of communication mechanisms of fashion. A radical experiment in which
that follows the intellectual and cultural sector within Alessandro Michele let himself go to the idea that beauty
which they operate. It seems, in this case, Alessandro could manifest, in an unpredictable and marvellously
Michele wants to give fashion education and culture the imperfect way, in the absence of control. He abdicated
importance it deserves. And he’s not afraid to declare his role as the obsessive director, loosened his grip and35
www.gucci.com
abandoned the construction of the scene and the action,
letting the models themselves create their own image,
playing photographers, story-tellers, producers and set
designers.
Then came the epilogue, sealing the closure of this
trilogy of love. This final movement gyrated around
yet another short-circuit: the clothes were worn by the
designers. The designers, who share the everyday burden
of creation, became the actors of a new story retaking
possession of the poetry they contributed to forging.
Staging what each one of us dreams or imagines. An
operation that, once again, saw the roles turned. Distance
eliminated. The creative act itself expository practise.
The interior projected outward. The intangible taking
solid form, exploding outward as if by self-combustion.
And more, all with the aim of pushing this analysis of
the mechanisms governing the world of fashion to the
very limit. An unusual way of communicating without
falling into the obsessive eccentric, thus dedicated to the
aware consumer, attentive and with a desire to appreciate
the particularity, though subtle, of an original, cultured
product. Vintage references and symbolisms alternating
between Dada and the Renaissance draw the traits of
an intellectual elite, which founding its premises on a
flourishing cultural capacity, finally dictates style.36
By Alberto Corrado
Through its manifesto, Pineider shows how time
can be sung by a chorus of whispering pens, on
reams of luxurious paper.
The space we dedicate to handwriting in our everyday We’re going back, looking for the beautiful fountain pens
lives has increased enormously during the course of this we used in our schooldays, and rediscovering special
strange pandemic, bringing us back somehow to our qualities of papers and intimate moments of communion
origins through the use of pen and paper. with the rules of beauty and harmony governing the
form of the letters.
Even among digital natives for whom technology is
now the consolidated norm, with the gradual erosion of Writing is good, helps the memory, relaxes and trains
motor skills and visual-motor memory and the implicit both hand and mind and gives us the chance to leave a
consequences this has on creative capacity, we’re seeing unique sign of our existence here on this earth.
an increased awareness of the need to safeguard access
to this creative gesture, and encourage the good practise Over these months of isolation we’ve reacquainted
of handwriting. ourselves with writing as an art form worthy of saving, and37
gone looking for a company currently undergoing a radical powerhouse of experience and ideas, bringing together
reorganisation of its entire structure to create a new line in retail, wholesale and marketing in an all-encompassing
fine pens, paper and leather. vision of the world of bespoke stationery and luxury
writing instruments, to rekindle the deep bonds between
We’re talking about Pineider, the historic workshop the brand and its customers.
established in Florence at the behest of Francesco Pineider
in 1774 and ever since synonymous with exclusivity Guiding the changes, director general Giuseppe Rossi,
and craftsmanship in paper, leather goods and writing along with Matteo Maresi and Anna Costabile, both part of
instruments, now back in the spotlight after being his team. We spoke long with them about the comeback
acquired by the Rovagnati family. calligraphy is making, and the enormous creative potential
Three years of investments in business organisation, contained in the act of leaving an intelligible mark on a
communication and design have gone into developing a sheet of paper. “If I hadn’t studied International Economics38
I would have studied geology so I could work in prospecting accompanying our pens, watches and leather items”.
for minerals or oil or something” explains Giuseppe Rossi, Always a truly top-end brand, the customers of Pineider’s
“while in reality the only thing that really interested me as celebrated letter paper included many illustrious names,
a child was the idea of travel, I read adventure books a lot from Eleonora Duse, Maria Callas, Gabriele D’Annunzio and
which led me to write and dream. But as you can see, half of Luigi Pirandello, to Henry Ford, Marlene Dietrich, Rudolf
my dreams have come true through my work in fashion and Nureiev, Luchino Visconti and Elizabeth Taylor who – so the
design that’s allowed me to travel all over the world”. story goes – ordered a certain kind of watermarked paper
in the violet hue of her incredible eyes.
When he took the reins of Pineider in March 2017 he also
took on a mission, a professional challenge to give new Another value the company puts great emphasis on is
voice to the ancient art of writing, so rich in values and communication, and the two fundamental concepts
traditions it would be such a crime to lose. expressed by the words consistence and solidity, both of
An ongoing project that's beginning to bear fruit. “A which play a key role in the world of writing instruments
success dictated above all by the passion of our shareholders” and calligraphy. As Matteo Maresi, Pineider’s MKT
assures Giuseppe Rossi “and the methodical research of explains, “Consistence and solidity, in writing understood as
our workgroup in rediscovering the values of Pineider, not to calligraphy, go hand in hand. The former has to do with the
mention the talent of our designers who’ve done a great job syntax, and the latter the lexicon. Although it immediately
reinterpreting the significance of excellence in personalised catches the eye, the calligraphy shouldn’t distract from
writing paper, calling cards and wedding invitations the text, but entice the reader into it. When calligraphic, a39
consistent, solid manuscript has a structure that while simple is your personal diary”. So what new horizons are opening
is rich in detail, filled with clear, defined and not vaporous up for writing? “One full of wonderful surprises we’ll never
words, capable of drawing the reader into the content, the abandon for the intangible, fleeting nature of the digital”
plot”, adding “consistent, solid writing doesn’t create the concludes Anna Costabile “One big surprise is that so many
ellipsis, but clearly delineates every sense expressed in it”. Just digital natives are rediscovering the art of writing and its
a thought, which maybe gives us a better insight into the potential thanks also to so many young artists in the Italian
character of writing on paper and the reason for its return music scene, rap especially, who make particular use of the
to popularity in this digital age, “because every one of us written word to express their ideas.”
has a desire to express free, irreducible thoughts” concludes
Matteo Maresi “without the sadness of knowing they’re A project inspired on the spirit of humanity that raises
destined to become lost in the immense flows of “big data”. the interiority of each individual and gives the power to
shape a personal future, coupled with an elegance that
This is perhaps another positive aspect of the lockdowns, goes beyond fashion and convention, designed to make a
which Anna Costabile, E-commerce Store Manager also statement.
confirms: “In these difficult times for everyone, I see immense
introspective, pedagogical power in writing. It’s a means for Writing is magical, a magical gateway to the world hidden
approaching the most intimate parts of ourselves through within us. The written word indeed has the power to fire
the repetition of gestures and the silence it requires. It’s a tool the imagination, bring light to the dark and hope for a
for building one’s personal identity. A classic example of this better future.
www.pineider.com40
www.oetkercollection.com
THE HEIGHT OF
LUXURY
© Pierre Thiaville
L’Apogée Courchevel is the perfect destination
for a winter season full of snowy adventures and
warm hospitality in the French Alps.
Perched on the most picturesque peak of
Courchevel’s Jardin Alpin, Oetker Collection’s
luxurious ski chalet welcomes its guests for
another exquisite season in one of the world’s
largest and most elite ski destinations.
Adventures to cherish
The L’ Apogée Courchevel team is planning a host of
activities providing guests with the opportunity to
explore the snowy wonderland in a multitude of ways.
Head Chef Jean-Luc Lefrançois, expert on the slopes as
well as in the kitchen, will offer a full-day adventure that
begins with a morning of skiing and a break for a surprise
lunch on a mountaintop. Then, as the sun sets, everyone
gathers back together at the hotel kitchen for a cooking
demonstration and tasting of the Chef’s signature dish. A
truly exclusive experience for food-loving skiers.
And for a thrill that goes beyond downhill skiing,
adventure seekers are encouraged to swap their skis
for flippers and try ice diving or take a detour from the
slopes on a mountain bike equipped with snow tires
for a true adrenaline rush. Less daring but just as much
fun, a dogsled or snowmobile ride around the valley or
a gentle snowshoe hike are all delightful ways to spend
the days in Courchevel.
An intimate Alpine retreat
This winter season, L’ Apogée Courchevel is perfectly
equipped for hosting families and friends for private
getaways in its two magnificent chalets: L’ Amarante
and L’ Alpensia. Featuring bespoke interior décor
by renowned interior designer India Mahdavi, the
expansive chalets each boast 550 square metres (5920
square feet) of luxurious space set over five floors.
Sleeping up to eleven guests, both have five large
bedrooms and a private spa and cinema for ultimate
relaxation and on-demand entertainment. The chalets’
opulent dining rooms are ideal for private dining or
lavish gastronomic experiences prepared by a private
chef, available upon request.
Located just steps from the hotel, L’ Amarante and
L’ Alpensia offer direct access to the slopes as well as to
all the hotel amenities. Chalet guests also benefit from
the care and attention of their own butler.
This season L’ Apogée Courchevel holds the key to
winter bliss.LE K2 COLLECTIONS WELCOME TO OUR LUXURY HOTELS & SPA
www.floconsdesel.com
42
© Anne-Emmanuelle Thion
© Francis Hammond
© Fresh Influence
FLOCONS
DE SEL
The heights of Megève are majestic and you can really lose yourself in the surroundings, while looking for the
perfect place of respite. With the blue glaciers of the Mont Blanc Massif and the mountain pasture farmhouse
staring you in the face, you are lost in the clouds. Your eyes halt on a resplendent establishment opened by
Kristine and Emmanuel Renaut fourteen years ago, and eureka, you know you have found it..
The spacious 5-star Flocons de Sel, equipped with modern conveniences, boasts all the charm of high-altitude chalets,
and is the ideal destination for mountain enthusiasts accustomed to elegant surroundings and a friendly atmosphere. The
hotel’s 6 rooms, 2 privates chalets, 2 Suites, and 2 luxury apartments, are all decorated in a refined and sober style, and you
quickly acquiesce to being at home.
Emmanuel Renaut, holder of the prestigious "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" (winner of a second Michelin Star in 2008),
created the Flocons de Sel gastronomic restaurant and the Flocons Village Bistro, at the village center. In February 2012,
Emmanuel Renaut was consecrated with a third Michelin star!
You should really plan to stay over several days in order to enjoy the exquisite cuisine. Try spending a week in a private
chalet, or a one night in a top-of-the-range apartment to soak in the atmosphere; or simply drop in for a relaxing massage.
Either way, you are sure to appreciate the perfect combination of luxury and space of the Flocons de Sel.PRESTIGE ON THE SLOPES
Chalet Gentianes Chalet Edelweiss Chalet Razzie
The ultimate in comfort Europe’s most luxurious private Chalet Opulence on the slopes
For more informations or for a reservation :
Tel. : + 33 (0) 6 62 99 80 29 / E-mail : info@courchevelprestigechalets.com / www.courchevelprestigechalets.com44
© Alex Stephen Teuscher
www.zannierhotels.com/lechalet
ZANNIER HOTELS
LE CHALET
Expressing the same purity and simplicity as the pristine white peaks of the Mont Blanc mountain range,
three-alpine chalets include 12 exceptionally large suites, gourmet restaurant and wellness spa, perched above
the breathtaking setting of Megève. Wintertime pursuits for beginners, the more adventurous or families are
tailored by a dedicated ski concierge.
Leonardo Da Vinci’s quote “Simplicity is the ultimate can enjoy afternoon tea with fresh pastries served by
sophistication” perfectly sums up Zannier Hotels Le the fireplace. It’s the perfect way to end a day of skiing
Chalet, with its simple yet luxurious décor, authentic and to begin a relaxing night.
and convivial atmosphere and dedicated staff.
To finish the day off you can return to your cosy room
Freshly revamped and with a new menu, restaurant or suite, with its minimalist design and breathtaking
La Ferme de Mon Père will be one of the highlight of views over the village, for a well-deserved rest.
your stay, offering the possibility to taste local farmers’
produce. You’ll be able to share a unique moment in an Why not try the well-being break which includes a
authentic setting whilst celebrating the richness of the 45-minute body massage and access to the relaxation
French Terroir. Throughout the season the restaurant’s area and pool, as well as a lunch, afternoon tea
menu features local produce, fresh organic fruit & veg, or aperitif? To make the most of your break, take
meat from the alpine pastures and local dairy products. advantage of our luxury car to tour the village - Zannier
Hotels Le Chalet is the only hotel in Megève to offer
After a tiring day on the slopes, from 4pm to 6 pm you this service!45
© Constance Clavel
M www.mdemegeve.com
DE MEGÈVE
Conceived as a traditional savoyard chalet and ideally located in the heart of the village, the hotel embodies
the true spirit of Megève: refinement and warm welcome.
With its 42 Rooms and Suites decorated in the Savoyard The M’s Restaurant welcomes this year two Michelin-star
tradition and contemporary style - each one offering a Chef Edouard LOUBET, who will create the restaurant
private balcony - the M de Megève is one of the most and bar menus for an authentic culinary adventure.
comfortable establishement in the famous Haute-Savoie
capital of ski. This member of the Small Luxury Hotels of At Le M’s Bar you’re invited to discover a selection of hot
the World™ is just 200 m from the ski lifts. The relatively cocktails to change from the traditional mulled wine,
small size of the structure is a guarantee of discretion, including the Signature Cocktail: Le “M”ojito.
attention to your needs, care for detail and extremely
high quality of service. At Les Grands Crus de Fondues you can create your own
fondue with truly special cheeses at with the help of a
The 300sqm Spa by Clarins, invites you to relax and dive fromagier.
into a world of pleasure. The Spa offers a swimming-pool
with counter-current swimming, a fitness center, Jacuzzi,
sauna and a hammam carved into the rocks. Plus 4
massage rooms including one for couples and one with an
alpha quartz sand treatment table, exclusive in Megeve.
© Karin CreuzetYou can also read
