2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE
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2018 BEAUTY IS ART 39TH NZSCC ANNUAL CONFERENCE BEAUTY IS ART 25TH - 27TH JULY 2018 WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND Conference Venue: Wednesday 25th July: 8.30am - 10.30pm New Zealand Society of Cosmetic Chemists Te Papa Museum Thursday 26th July: 9.00am - 12.00am www.nzscc.org.nz 55 Cable St, Wellington Friday 27th July: 9.00am - 2.20pm
WELCOME TO WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND We are very proud of our ‘coolest little capital in the world.’ Famous for a vibrant creative culture fuelled by great food, wine, craft beer, coffee and events, Wellington is a cosmopolitan city with an energetic personality. Sitting near the North Island’s southernmost point on the Cook Strait, a compact city, it encompasses a waterfront promenade, sandy beaches, a working harbour and colourful timber houses on surrounding hills. From Lambton Quay, the iconic red Wellington Cable Car heads to the Wellington Botanic Gardens. Strong winds through the Cook Strait give it the nickname “Windy Wellington.” www.wellingtonnz.com 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Conference Organisers Maree Raffles Travis Badenhorst Angela Hayes President Vice President Secretary I joined the society in 1983 when I was the Travis is the Vice President and Webmaster After completing my double-degree in Food lab manager at Smith and Nephew who of the NZSCC, NZCRS committee member Science and Marketing at Otago University, were manufacturing Nivea cosmetics and and is a Scientist with Snowberry. Travis I began my career working as a Food Care medical products. We were in Rosebank obtained a BPharm from the University of Specialist in R&D at Fisher & Paykel in Road along with Reckitt and Colman and Otago before working as a pharmacist for a Auckland. My husband and I then moved We/la (Sonata Laboratories). I moved number of years. He then completed to Kerikeri where I worked in R&D for Living to Croda as a sales rep and joined the a MHSc and PhD at the University of Nature skincare; this is where my passion committee. I am currently the Industry Auckland whilst working in the skincare for cosmetic formulation began. I am Manager for Brenntag looking after the industry. He now has over a decade worth currently working as a formulator for Pharma and Cosmetic customers. Over of experience in the field, three published Go-To Skincare at Pharmatech in Auckland the years I have seen many changes in our international papers, a podium presentation and have recently completed a Diploma industry. When the multinational existed at the World Congress of Dermatology, and of Personal Care Formulation. I love being NZ in the late 80s our local formulators is a regular to the NZSCC conferences. involved in the NZSCC Committee and concentrated on making natural cosmet- feel privileged to work in such an amazing ics. We are leading the way in this field. industry with great people. Eve Storer-Blake Stacey Fraser Katrina Bunge Communications Manager Social Media Officer Treasurer Eve is a qualified Naturopath and Medical After a stellar career creating award winning Katrina is Treasurer of NZSCC and Business Herbalist graduating with a Bachelor of Natural Skincare products for one of New Manager at Alchemy Agencies. Katrina Health Science in Complementary Medicine Zealand's leading Natural Skin care brands has a BSc degree from Auckland in 2003. She is a sought after lecturer and Trilogy, Stacey has taken her passion for University, and originally started her career presenter and joined the Nutrition faculty all things “beauty” and conceived Nature's as an Industrial Chemist at Peterson at Wellpark College of Natural Therapies Blueprint to share her knowledge and Chemicals in 1995. She then moved onto where she lectured in Clinical Nutrition expertise and bring a new innovative variety at Bayer in 1996 as Sales Representative from 2008-2013. She previously held a of skincare to the industry and consumer. where she stayed through to 2015 as technical training role for Vitaco, one of Nature's Blueprint showcases on trend, General Manager Bayer MaterialScience New Zealand’s largest dietary supple- high quality, socially acceptable, traditional at which time the business transferred ment manufacturers, prior to joining and leading-edge products to the world. to Alchemy. Katrina believes that the Bronson & Jacobs in 2014 as Key Account Over 20 years industry experience from personal care market in New Zealand Manager for the Nutrition and Personal customer service, sales, marketing, has stamped out an extraordinary footprint, Care markets. She has a lifelong passion communications, operations, logistics, with its focus on naturals and niche for phytomedicine and natural cosmet- packaging, concept development, manufacturing combined with its ability ics, making her own skin and hair care product development, manufacturing, to constantly innovate via the infamous products since she was a teenager. compliance and regulations. Kiwi-can-do-attitude. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Conference Organisers Sara Ching Archana Kumari Committee Member Committee Member My first introduction to Pharmacognosy (plant medicine) Archana is currently working at Shieling Laboratories Limited was in my late teens, when it wasn't common place to as Formulation Chemist. Having completed her Chemistry see natural skincare on supermarket shelves. I trained Degree, she started as a graduate, learning from some as a beauty therapist in the 1990's and then began to fur- of the best in this Industry. She has also studied ther my research and education into natural and traditional Regulatory Essentials from /PS (Institute of Personal skincare formulating. I love helping customers create custom Care Science). She is passionate about her work and products and build their brands by formulating with their loves the ever changing dynamic of this industry. Outside budget in mind but also products that fit their market. work, she likes to go tramping with her friends and enjoys I currently for at Alaron Products as Liquids and Creams being creative in the kitchen. Manager. I enjoy the challenge of working for a contract manufacturer with the variety of customers and capabilities. Outside of work I'm a Mum and enjoy being on our farm and riding my horses. ENJOY SUCCESSFUL PARTNERSHIPS Dedicated Team, Innovative Solutions Benefit from our comprehensive Brenntag has built its reputation on natural ingredients product range: partnering with the best ingredients ■ Bio-functional Actives manufacturers and delivering the ■ Botanical Extracts highest quality products to its ■ Conditioning Agents Brenntag Australia Pty. Ltd. customers. ■ Emollients 262 Highett Road, Highett ■ Emulsifiers Victoria, Australia Working with Brenntag means not only ■ Rheology Modifiers Phone: +61 3 9559 8333 accessing our wide-ranging product ■ Scrubs info-aus@brenntag-asia.com expertise, but also our extensive ■ Sunscreen Actives market and formulations know-how. ■ Surfactants Brenntag New Zealand Limited ■ Vitamins 75 France Street, Eden Terrace Discover our Cosmetics portfolio: Auckland 1010, New Zealand ■ Advanced ingredients Phone: +64 9 275 0745 info-nz@brenntag-asia.com ■ Inspiring concepts ■ Innovative textures ■ Modern applications www.brenntag-asia.com 13691_BAP_AUS_NZ_Ad_PersonalCare_187x137mm_En-WomanLeaf.indd 1 09.03.18 08:48
President's Welcome Tena KouTou Katoa On behalf of the New Society of Cosmetic Chemist committee we warmly welcome you to our 39th annual Conference Beauty is Art held at Te Papa our National Museum. Welcome to our members. Life members, our speakers and our overseas visitors. We have a full programme of 24 speakers. Including a local brand owner from Tailor Skincare and a local blogger Victoria Faith presenting their personal journey in the NZ Cosmetic scene. We encourage more members to come forward and share their stories. API Consumer Brands are our Diamond sponsors. It is the first time a contact manufacturer has taken this opportunity. Thank you to all our sponsors for supporting the Society so we can make this event fabulous. Our industry is unique and the networking opportunities happen during the break time. A quarter of you are attending our conference for the first time so please reach out to our new members. 16 people have travelled here from overseas and we have a an even split of brand owners and formulators with Ingredient suppliers. Make sure you visit the Innovation Zone to see the new products launched this year and new ingredients for your new formulations. We would like to thank our sponsors who have helped make this event very special. You have all received a goodie bag which is overflowing with products generously donated Brand Owners and Suppliers Our welcome event will be held at an icon Kiwi creative HUB. We will have hands on fun with Cosmetics. Tomorrow’s team building event is another great time to meet some new people. We have the Red Carpet ready for your grand entrance at the Gala dinner. Rest assured many hours of preparation have gone into creating some fabulous outfits. Make sure you are dressed for the occasion and dancing to midnight. Your committee have created a spectacular event. I would like to acknowledge their dedication and care to bring this event together. Have fun, learn lots, and enjoy making new connections through Cosmetic Chemistry. Maree Raffles President NZSCC 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 SPEAKERS DAY 1 01 Bree Webster - IXOM - Bronson & Jacobs Mood Paint. When painting inspires your emotion. 02 Paul Buckingham - Ceechem Vital Water; addressing Global Resource concerns with novel technologies that exemplify sustainability and 03 Malie Zauber - Carst and Walker Athleis’ure Beauty 04 Paula Chavez - Aromatic Ingredients Art of Perfumery 05 Belinda Carli - Personal Care Science (Workshop) Formulating with Natural Surfactants 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 SPEAKERS DAY 2 06 Stacey Fraser - Nature’s Blueprint How art can inspire ‘All Things Beauty’ 14 Robyn Vickery and Mick Riley - BioGro Organic Health & Body Care Uncovered 07 Robert McPherson - Lubrizol Skin Adaptive Response to Photoaging 15 Gina Dela Cruz - IMCD The Artful Beauty of Glass Skin 08 Val Bellio - Dow Ethocel Oil Thickeners & Film Formers 16 Peter Lehrke - Pharmatech How Nature Inspires Creativity John Staton - Eurofins 09 Changes to ISO 24444 Sunscreen Test. Why & When? 17 Kevin Roden - Thor A Confusing Presentation on Preservative Efficacy Testing 10 Maree Raffles - Brenntag Protection into the Blue 18 Armelle Sebbag - Avenir Epigenetics: The New Paradigm in Cosmetic Science 11 Matthew Martens - Croda Poretect - The Green Architect for an Empowered Skin 12 Sara Quilter - Sara Tailor Skincare From the cake mixer to contract manufacturing - how to scale a garage project using social media. 13 Victoria Lomaloma - Blogger The Power of a Like 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
2018 SPEAKERS DAY 3 19 Rahau Shirazi - Callaghan Smart Bioactive Delivery Systems for Cosmeceuticals 20 Joseph Chan - Stepan Company Beauty is Art (A perspective in the use of surfactants to exemplify beauty) 21 Patrycja Pytel - Verital The Art of Never Ending Curiosity - exciting findings from In-Cosmetics Global Amsterdam 2018 22 Helen Costanza and Michele Dalli - BASF Be Authentic with BASF Care Creations 23 Daniela Lima - Connell Bros The New Greenery 24 Dr Ted Kim - Clariant Eosidin - The immuno-modulator for indoor pollution control 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Bree Webster MOOD PAINT - WHEN PAINTING INSPIRES YOUR EMOTIONS ABSTRACT BREE WEBSTER Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact Author: IXOM - Bronson and Jacobs, Category Manager Ms Nathalie Chevrot, Market Manager for Health, Personal Care and Household SEPPIC SA, 22, Terrasse Bellini, Paris La Défense – 92800 Puteaux BIO Presenter: Ms Bree Webster, IXOM Operations Pty Ltd Bree graduated with a Bachelor of BioMedical Level 9, 1 Nicholson St, East Melbourne Science in 2001. Victoria 3002, Australia Mood Paint - When Painting Inspires Your Emotions Bree’s career started in the Pharmaceutical industry SEPPIC innovates by inspiring its customers through launching new prescription medicine to Specialists its “Mood Paint” texture bar and invites you to in Melbourne. Followed by the promotion and sale of rediscover its palette of ingredients to create new the cosmetics laser equipment within the plastic and masterpieces. Discover new emotion-stimulating formulas that SEPPIC beauty care laboratories cosmetics surgeons industry. Since joining Bronson designed and inspired by various art (painting) & Jacobs (IXOM) 11 years ago, Bree has continued movements (Street Art, Pop Art, Surrealism, Naïve Art, Renaissance Art) and Cosmetic Trends. her education completing a Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science with the Institute of Personal Care Street art (1970’s), contemporary urban art, is one of the most popular trends around the world. Science in 2015. She has a career long passion in The Perfect body illusion spray revisits this optical working within the cosmetics and health industry. illusion-like artistic trend with its foundation application that makes legs look more slender. Pop Art (1950) reflects the spirit of a period of serial production, the role of the consumer society. Colours are bright and off-beat compared to reality. This inspired the SEPPIC laboratories to develop five multimasking trend formulas. The five masks share the same chassis but with different colours, actives and textures. SEPPIC is also revisiting Surrealism (1920), Naïve Art (1850) and Italian Renaissance (1420) to create equally interesting formulations. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Paul Buckingham VITAL WATER; GLOBAL RESOURCE CONCERNS WITH NOVEL TECHNOLOGIES THAT EXEMPLIFY SUSTAINABILITY AND INNOVATION ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact PAUL BUCKINGHAM Author: Quinn Ryder CEO of Ceechem Australia Sponsor: Active Concepts, LLC Address: 107 Technology Drive Lincolnton NC, 28092 BIO Contact: +81-090-9296-2490 E: qryder@activeconceptsllc.com Paul Buckingham is the CEO of Ceechem Australia Vital Water; addressing global resource and excited to announce the opening of Ceechem concerns with novel technologies that New Zealand in August of 2017. exemplify sustainability and innovation Paul is a passionate, energetic, sales and marketing Clean water is the most precious professional possessing a can-do attitude with a commodity on Earth. It sustains all life. As we enter an era of global broad array of skills and experiences that span a consciousness the preciousness of diverse array of industries. water becomes more apparent. In personal care vast quantities of water Complementing his extensive work experience, are used during the production of raw Paul holds the following academic qualifications: materials, in finished cosmetic products and also by the consumer in their home. • Master of Entrepreneurship and Innovation By turning to efficacious anhydrous • Post Graduate Certificate in Marketing actives and formulas, which are currently • Living by the Life mantle of “Give till it hurts limited in their offering to more simple and then give some more“ there is always a emollients, we can focus on innovative solution at hand. and sustainable technologies for anti-ageing claims in personal care while helping to reduce the amount of vital water consumed. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Malie Zauber ATHLEIS’URE BEAUTY ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact MALIE ZAUBER Athleis’ure Beauty Carst and Walker Active beauty is a growing trend. While BIO exercising to keep your body healthy, you should not forget to keep your face is a Malie Zauber obtained her Microbiology (Hons) good shape! In this presentation, we will degree from the University of Stellenbosch, see what are the biological effects of South Africa and has been involved in the sport in the skin and the current solutions cosmetics industry since 1998. She initially joined available on the market. Finally, we will the industry as a Quality Control Manager, but real- discover Gattefossé range to MOVE while ised her passion was on the innovation side. protecting your skin! “I always felt I want to create products and the R&D lab was the perfect home”. Between 1999 and 2010 Malie headed up the R&D side of various brands in South Africa and Australia: Yardley, Coty, Maybeline, Innoxa. In 2010 Malie decided to make a career change to the ‘dark side’ and joined the raw materials distribution business (Rejuvacare, Sydney) in a Technical Marketing & Development role and later moved into a sales role. In 2014 Malie joined Carst & Walker as Industry Group Manager to develop the Personal Care/Vet/ Pharma business in Oceania. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Paula Chavez ART OF PERFUMERY ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact PAULA CHAVEZ Art of Perfumery Aromatic Ingredients • Understanding the levels of fragrance - Synthetic BIO - Natural - EO Blends Paula joined Aromatic ingredients in 2017 after - How these levels are made up - Creativity for Perfumer AI Director Erika, saw a need for someone with - Understanding what fragrance is relevant to Fragrance and Product Development experience your project to join the team. For the past 15 months Paula has worked strongly in increasing the Fragrance • What you find in a Fragrance Pyramid awareness for Aromatic Ingredients and working - How a fragrance Pyramid can assist for with new clients to develop their new brands. In the Marketing Inspiration Personal Care industry for the last 27 years in - Fragrance Notes and what they mean - How long do the notes last National Sales and Education roles, Paula uses all her experience in working in retail and wholesale • Olfactive Directions companies to offer her clients the most updated - Discover what direction to take your information on projects she works on with them. project on As a trained Beauty Therapist, education is very - Understanding the Fragrance Families - Sniff a thon important to her and she is happy to share her knowledge in all areas of the Beauty World. • Dosages - Understand what % levels you can use in your application - Why is it different for assorted applications - Why is it important to stick to recommended dosage % 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Belinda Carli FORMULATING WITH NATURAL SURFACTANTS ABSTRACT BELINDA CARLI Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact Formulating with Natural Surfactants Institute of Personal Care Science, Director B Nat Therapies; Dip Cos Sci Using natural surfactants poses several formulation problems: they don’t thicken BIO easily, foaming and cleansing can be an issue and making them perform like Belinda is the Director of the Institute of Personal synthetic versions at similar costs all Care Science (www.personalcarescience.com.au), add to the challenge! Until now… an International Training Organisation providing Certificate and Diplomas via distance education in the Join Belinda in this demonstrative formulation, development, brand management and workshop to find out how to: regulatory affairs for personal care and cosmetics. • Select natural surfactant She is a regular presenter at major International combinations to yield best results events and her work can be found in many national • Work with high performing natural and International publications and Special Chem surfactants formulators site. She is the Official Technical Advisor to the in-cosmetics Group internationally; and has • Use formulating tips & tricks to create written 5 books on Beginners and Advanced thick, luxurious foaming gels Cosmetic Formulation, Organic and Colour Cosmetic Formulation and Brand Management. • Create natural surfactant formulations without compromising She has a Bachelor of Natural Therapies, a Diploma performance of Cosmetic Science and Certificate IV in Training and Assessment. She is a member of the Australian • Work within restrictive budgets Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ASCC). She was the winner of the 2013 Annual Industry Award from CHC Watch Belinda create several beautiful, Australia for her contribution to research and training natural surfactant products on the day and was a finalist in the Australian 2010 Telstra to put this all into practice PLUS get Business Women’s Awards in 3 categories. a FREE natural surfactant formulation guide booklet by attending. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Stacey Fraser HOW ART CAN INSPIRE ‘ALL THINGS BEAUTY’ ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact STACEY FRASER Address: Nature’s Blueprint Ltd, Director 7 Olliver Grove, Waikanae Beach Kapiti Coast, Wellington 5036 BIO Contact: M: +64 (0)21 2055 353 After a stellar career creating award winning Natural E: naturesblueprintltd@gmail.com Skincare products for one of New Zealand’s leading Natural www.naturesblueprint.co.nz skincare brands Trilogy, Stacey has taken her passion for all things “beauty” and conceived Nature’s Blueprint to share her knowledge and expertise and bring a new innovative How Art can Inspire “All Things Beauty” variety of skincare to the industry and consumer. This presentation will be based around Nature’s Blueprint showcases on trend, high quality, socially all aspects of the Beauty Industry acceptable, traditional and leading-edge products to the showcasing how Art has and can inspire world. Innovation and marketing is the key to developing the beauty industry. How we could the next 'great iconic product.' include this in our next product Over 20 years industry experience from customer service, development or marketing campaigns. sales, marketing, communications, operations, logistics, packaging, concept development, product development, We will walk through areas of manufacturing, compliance and regulations. formulations, finished products, packaging, marketing, promotions, trends and accessories to provide “ideas” you can takeaway. The presentation will include some new innovative art inspired beauty products to review. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Robert McPherson SKIN ADAPTIVE RESPONSE TO PHOTOAGING ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact ROBERT MCPHERSON Skin Adaptive Response to Photoaging Lubrizol Photoaging is a multifactorial process produced after sun exposure. Ultraviolet radiation leads to the production of reactive oxygen species and activation BIO of intracellular signaling pathways that result in an increase in inflammatory mediators. These mediators interfere with synthesis of dermal collagens and trigger Robert McPherson has been in the Cosmetics and synthesis of enzymes that degrade the extracellular Pharmaceutical industry for over 10 years. Robert matrix, promoting skin aging through wrinkle formation and loss of tissue elasticity. obtained a Degree in Chemistry from The University of Strathclyde (Scotland). After 4 years of working at The biological effects of visible light (400-700 nm) are the Mentholatum Company in the UK as a Research and not well-characterized, nevertheless, several studies suggest that blue light (400-500 nm) is not innocuous. Quality Development Chemist Robert Immigrated to Australia where he had short spells working in various The ability of a cell, tissue, or organism to better resist stress damage by prior exposure to a lesser amount labs, which includes Reckitt Benckiers in Sydney. Robert of stress is known as adaptive response. Exposure to then join a personal care ingredient distribution company ultraviolet irradiation results in a number of responses in Australia as their Technical account manager before in irradiated skin which may be considered adaptive, that is, they are likely to provide some joining Lubrizol in 2015 to look after the Lipotec actives protection against further UV damage. range in Australian and New Zealand. Our goal is to develop a cosmetic ingredient able to induce the skin adaptive response through skin Robert is now Lubrizol’s Sales Manager for Australia and photoreceptors opsins to prevent photoaging induced by solar radiation and blue light. Our ingredient is able New Zealand and tasked with the growth of the entire to protect skin from solar and blue light acting at three Lubrizol skin care, personal, home and health care main points: physical barrier, antioxidant barrier and portfolio. Robert is an active member of the personal DNA protection. industry in Australia and is the currently a member of the To achieve this objective, we have focused on ASCC NSW chapter committee, Vice Chair of the 2019 extremophile microorganisms that are able to colonize extreme environments. Among extremophiles, radio Conference organizing committee and current President resistant microorganisms can survive in high levels of of the ASCC. radiation producing metabolic products and enzymes, optimized to help them to survive under high-radiation conditions. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Val Bellio ETHOCEL OIL THICKENERS AND FILM FORMERS ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact VAL BELLIO Ethocel Oil Thickeners and Film Formers DOW The presentation will be an overview of Dow’s range of oil thickeners and film BIO formers for personal care applications, how they function as film formers and Valentina Bellio graduated from Melbourne how they offer tailored and transparent thickening whilst exhibiting broad oil University with a BSc majoring in Organic Chemistry. compatibility. She initially worked as a development chemist with Hoechst Surfactants for 5 years assisting with the development of products for various markets including Metalworking, HI&I and Personal Care. She then moved into a sales role, firstly with Rhone Poulenc (later known as Rhodia and now Solvay) and subsequently with Croda Surfactants for the majority of her career. Whilst with Croda, she specialized in the Personal Care and Health Care markets. In 2010, she transferred to Singapore and took on an Asia Pac regional role with Croda Singapore looking after their Health Care market for 3 years. Valentina’s current role is Business Development Specialist for Dow with responsibility for the Coatings and Personal Care markets in ANZ. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
John Staton CHANGES TO ISO 24444 SUNSCREEN TEST. WHY & WHEN? ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact JOHN STATON Changes To ISO 24444 Sunscreen Test. Why & When? Eurofins Dermatest Pty Ltd, Australia The process of finalisation of the BIO ISO 24444 SPF test method for sunscreens was completed in 2010 and was adopted John comes from a background of over 50 years into Australian Standard AS/NZS 2604 experience in the pharmaceutical and health care in 2012. ISO procedures require that a industries. Standard be reviewed after 5 years in order John is a founding Director of two consultancy companies - to confirm utilisation and validity. Such Technical Consultancy Services, who provide new product was the process initiated for the sunscreen development and Dermatest recently acquired by the standard early in 2016. This process is Eurofins group and now trading as Eurofins Dermatest incomplete but is sufficiently advanced Pty Ltd. for prediction of agreed changes to be The labs are recognised by Standards Australia for the presented. The modifications to the test conduct of sunscreen testing. Dermatest has been methodology represent improvement in the conducting SPF testing and skin efficacy and safety evaluation studies continuously since 1997. state of the art. He is currently Australian Head Delegate representative As will be seen from the supporting to the ISO Committee on Sunscreen Testing under ISO Technical Committee 217 – Cosmetics and Chair of the justifications which will be presented, each ISO Working Groups on Water Resistance is based on sound grounds with the overall objective of reducing inter-laboratory He spent over 15 years with Soul Pattinson Laboratories, the manufacturing arm of the large retail, wholesale and variability in the conduct of this test pharmaceutical manufacturing group, playing various methodology. technical roles. He was also Operations Manager of Cenovis, now a division of Mayne, for 7 years. John left his final position as General Manager of Soul Pattinson Laboratories to become a consultant to industry where he has spent the last 16 years. John is a Past President and Life Member of Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He serves on a number of industry representative roles with ASMI, ACCORD and Standards Australia. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Maree Raffles BEL-EVEN® FROM DSM. FUTURE PROOF YOUR SKIN FROM THE EFFECTS OF DAILY STRESS ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact MAREE RAFFLES Bel-Even® from DSM. Future proof your skin Brenntag from the effects of daily stress Whether stemming from job-related BIO issues, relationship conflicts, or simply facing a 24/7 lifestyle, stress has become I joined society in 1983 when I was the lab manager a constant part of our daily lives. The human at Smith and Nephew who were manufacturing skin naturally responds to periods of stress with the formation of more cortisol through Nivea cosmetics and medical products. We were in a particular enzyme; 11β-HSD1. This release Rosebank Road along with Reckitt and Colman and of cortisol, the so-called stress hormone, is a We/la (Sonata Laboratories). I moved to Croda as a normal and healthy adaptation reflex. However, sales rep and joined the committee. I am currently cortisol can turn into an enemy of the skin if it the Industry Manager for Brenntag looking after the remains in excess over a long period of time. Beyond practicing stress-coping techniques, Pharma and Cosmetic customers. Over the years there is a high consumer interest for cosmetic I have seen many changes in our industry. When the treatments that work to both help the skin deal multinational existed NZ in the late 80s our local with stress and reverse any negative effects formulators concentrated on making natural such as skin thinning, loss of elasticity and cosmetics. We are leading the way in this field. barrier weakening in general. With BEL-EVEN®, DSM has designed and patented a new cosmetic ingredient that inhibits in vitro 11β-HSD1. BEL-EVEN®, was specifically developed for skin care applications by using a rational design approach. It locally rebalances the negative, long-term effects of stress on skin and visibly reduces signs of a stressful lifestyle. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Matthew Martens PORETECT - THE GREEN ARCHITECT FOR AN EMPOWERED SKIN ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact MATTHEW MARTENS Poretect - The Green Architect for an Croda Empowered Skin Open pores are not only a characteristic BIO of young and oily skin. They can also be a sign of ageing, in particular when entering Matthew obtained his Bachelor of Science (Technology) menopause. Upon ageing, skin supporting from the University of Waikato, NZ in 2002 majoring in structures mainly composed of collagen Chemistry and Finance. After moving to Australia in 2003 and elastin become less dense and he started in the industry as a Development Chemist at efficient, with their production and release Ross Cosmetics in Melbourne formulating a number of in the dermal matrix are reduced. This Personal Care products including sunscreens, oral care weakening affects the pore shape which products, colour cosmetics and skin care products. is then prone to sagging, and results into Matthew joined Croda in 2009 as Technical Sales unsightly conspicuous pores that affect the Executive before being promoted to Industry Sales regularity of the skin texture. Manager in 2012 responsible for Croda’s Personal Care product portfolio in Australia in New Zealand. Poretect as a superseed combination In 2016 in conjunction with Croda’s increased focus on offers a new approach to fight sign of Sustainability Matthew was given the additional ageing and promotes an empowered skin, responsibility of Sustainability Champion within the a refined and blurred skin texture with less Personal Care business for Asia Pacific. The main goal of visible pores and a re-plumped skin. this role being to liaise with local teams within the region to help promote Croda’s Sustainability initiatives from a Product perspective throughout Asia and connect with key customers in the region. As an active member of the Personal Care Industry in Australia Matthew has been on the ASCC Council since 2010 with the role of President from 2015 - 2017. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Sara Quilter FROM THE CAKE MIXER TO CONTRACT MANUFACTURING - HOW TO SCALE A GARAGE PROJECT USING SOCIAL MEDIA ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact SARA QUILTER From the cake mixer to contract Sara Tailor Skincare manufacturing - how to scale a garage project using social media BIO Join Sara as she shares her experience growing a garage project business using Sara is the doer of the things and thinker of the social media. If online and social media thoughts at Tailor Skincare. She’s an unofficial marketing is a mystery to you then this is a seminar you won't want to miss. psychologist, proud dog mum to Loui the mini Schnauzer, avid tea drinker, aspiring yogini, self confessed brunch addict and someone who’s mildly inappropriate after wine. After beginning production of Tailor Skincare with a cake mixer and minimum wage salary, Sara has turned this hand made garage project into a full scalable entity with the use of social media and contract manufacturing to meet demand. Recently she has pushed Tailor Skincare into NZ retail, ranging across Farmers and selected Life Pharmacy retail outlets. Going forward Sara has the intention of continuing growth by exploring offshore opportunity for Tailor and continuing to innovate in the natural skincare market. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Victoria Lomaloma THE POWER OF A LIKE ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact VICTORIA LOMALOMA The Power of a Like www.victoriafaith.co.nz In today's social media climate, content creators can have more influence over BIO audiences than traditional advertising, which has a forced the cosmetic industry Victoria Lomaloma aka 'Victoria Faith' grew up in to adapt. Victoria relays her experience Wellington and attended Massey University where with social media in the beauty scene as an influencer from authenticity, she received a Bachelor of Visual Communication collaborations, engagement and the Design in Illustration with Honours. She has a industry moving forward. passion for design and illustration, and loves the synergy created between them. Victoria's love for make up and application came naturally. To her, it is just another form of creativity. Victoria began her beauty and lifestyle channels in 2014 and thoroughly enjoys creating beautiful content to share with her viewers. Victoria special- ises in design, illustration and makeup and has a social media following of 30,000+ across her social media channels. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Robyn Vickery and Mike Riley ORGANIC HEALTH AND BODY CARE UNCOVERED ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact ROBYN VICKERY AND MICK RILEY Organic Health and Body Care Uncovered BioGro The global organic market is on the rise, and New Zealand producers are increasingly BIO jumping on the bandwagon as they realise the opportunities available to them. BioGro, Mick Riley has been a Certification Officer at BioGro New Zealand’s leading organic certifier are since early 2016, specialising as New Zealand’s only here to give you an overview of the sector, consumer trends and what it takes to meet Programme Manager for Organic Health and Body the organic standards. Care. With a postgraduate degree in Pharmacology, Mick took the route into organics with his enthusiasm for sustainability and animal welfare. Robyn Vickery is the Marketing and Communications Manager at BioGro NZ. Robyn has been championing the organic sector and its products for over two years, with the belief that a voice is needed to increase awareness and understanding at both a producer and consumer level. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Gina Dela Cruz THE ARTFUL BEAUTY OF GLASS SKIN ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact GINA DELA CRUZ Address: IMCD New Zealand Ltd IMCD New Zealand, Ground Floor 459 Great South Rd, Penrose BIO Auckland 1061 PO Box 27 056 Mt Roskill, Auckland 1440 Gina holds a Bachelor of Science in Chemical New Zealand Engineering degree. She has an extensive experience Contact: in varying capacities in the pharmaceutical and DDI: +64 9 582 0308 P: +64 9 582 0250 personal care industries. Over the years she has F: +64 9 525 0030 M: +64 (0)274 717908 E: gdelacruz@imcd.co.nz handled different roles in a manufacturing environment ranging from formulation chemist, The Artful Beauty of Glass Skin validation engineer, QA manager and operations In the world of visual culture today looking manager. She is currently an account and business good at all times has become mandatory manager for the personal care division at IMCD among consumers. With social media, “selfies,” and smartphone features like New Zealand FaceTime, the digital age has created the obsession to look camera ready for any occasion at any time. Just like artwork, achieve pixel perfect skin with IMCD’s beauty toolkit. Mask lines with no apps or filters, diminish fine pores, hydrate and protect skin for a bright camera ready effect….no digital enhancement needed. The artful beauty of glass skin appearance is now the norm among the benefits that products provide. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Peter Lehrke HOW NATURE INSPIRES CREATIVITY ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact PETER LEHRKE How Nature Inspires Creativity Pharmatech Anyone who has enjoyed New Zealand’s great walks will have experienced the mind BIO blowing power of a magnificent view of a mountain, river, lake, or bush. Or if you have Graduating from Massey University in 1982, Peter has 30 years really observed and been fascinated by an experience in cosmetic formulations, human and veterinary animal, bird or even an insect in the wild you pharmaceuticals, dietary supplements, and nutritionals. Industry roles have included product development, manufacturing, will have noticed the beauty, the symmetry, project management and general management. the movement and co-ordination. Career includes senior management roles with Glaxo Pharmaceuticals, the world’s largest pharmaceutical company in And maybe you were inspired to go on and the 1990’s, PharmaPacific (division of Fernz Corporation and create something of beauty yourself. Nufarm), Douglas Pharmaceuticals, New Zealand’s largest pharmaceutical manufacturer, GMP Pharmaceuticals, the fastest growing contract supplements company in New Zealand and In this presentation you will hear about how New Image Group who are the largest direct selling company in natural phenomena can influence us, and Australasia. how one product development company taps Peter project managed the design, build and establishment of into nature as a source of creative inspiration. Douglas Pharmaceutical’s Fiji facility, the first pharmaceutical factory in the Pacific Islands. In 2003 at supplement manufacturer GMP Pharmaceuticals Peter developed the quality system and achieved GMP certification for the factory. He then managed the company for 2 years growing it from $3.5million to $10 million in 2006 which won it the Natural Products New Zealand industry Exporter of the Year Award. He then took up the role of General Manager of Research and Development for New Image Group 2007-2012 until returning to industry consulting through Pharmatech. Peter is currently an elected member of the Executive Board of Natural Products New Zealand, and has served on this industry organisation for natural health and beauty products for 14 years. Now, Director of his own technical consulting company, Pharmaceutical Technologies Ltd., or PharmaTech, he offers new product innovation services and other technical and regulatory services to nutraceutical, supplements and cosmetics companies. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Kevin Roden A CONFUSING PRESENTATION ON PRESERVATIVE EFFICACY TESTING ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact KEVIN RODEN Company Details: Thor Specialties Ltd, PO Box 3124 Thor Specialties, Technical Manager Wetherill Park 2164, Australia P: 61 2 9725 1177 BIO Fax: 61 2 9725 5677 E: kevinr@thorchem.com.au Kevin Roden graduated from the University of Sydney A Confusing Presentation on Preservative with a degree in Microbiology and Pharmacology. Efficacy Testing The preservative system chosen for a He has had extensive experience in microbiological personal care product is an intrinsic part of testing and has been employed as Manager for two the formulation and care needs to be taken when selecting the most appropriate system consultant Microbiological Testing Laboratories for each product type. Even following the and Quality Assurance Manager for a vaccine greatest care in selecting the best preserva- tive systems problems can occur. Preservative manufacturer. actives may interact with other raw materials or partition into the wrong phase resulting in Kevin was employed in 1991 by Thor Specialties inadequate preservation. Preservative Efficacy Tests are routinely conducted and established Limited in the position of Technical Services pass criteria must be met. The determination Manager and established a NATA accredited of how results are calculated and presented Microbiological Testing Laboratory for evaluating may be confusing and use of terms like log reduction even more so. the performance of biocides in industrial and personal care products. This presentation will cover how the tests are conducted, variations on test methods in use, how the results are calculated and what they mean. The presentation will discuss a number of confusing components of the tests and calculations including a discussion on what log reduction really means and how it is often misused. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Armelle Sebbag EPIGENETICS: THE NEW PARADIGM IN COSMETIC SCIENCE ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact ARMELLE SEBBAG Epigenetics: The New Paradigm in Cosmetic Science Avenir Epigenetics is the study of the BIO mechanisms involved in the regulation of gene activity: the biological mechanisms Armelle has a Bachelors degree in Cosmetic that will switch genes on and off without altering their sequence. Chemistry from the University of Montpellier and a Masters degree in Cosmetic Formulation from We’ll introduce skincare actives that ISIPCA, Versailles, France. Armelle has worked as have epigenetic activities: moisturising, a cosmetic formulator in several large companies anti-inflammaging, anti-wrinkle, lifting, in France, the US and UK before moving to Australia antioxidant… 8 years ago. Her impressive experience includes prestigious brands and contract manufacturers. She has worked as a cosmetic technical advisor for large contractors and her experience includes skin care, hair care, body care and colour cosmetics. Armelle brings her wealth of knowledge on formulating and ingredients along with her bright personality to offer technical advice to our customers as she joined the sales team at Avenir Ingredients over a year ago. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Rahu Shirazi SMART BIOACTIVE DELIVERY SYSTEMS FOR COSMECEUTICALS ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact RAHAU SHIRAZI Dr Rahau Shirazi Dr Stephen Bloor Callaghan Dr Andrew MacKenzie BIO Smart Bioactive Delivery Systems for Cosmeceuticals Rahau Shirazi is a Senior Scientist in Integrated Cosmeceuticals are among the fastest growing segment of the personal care market. The quality Biotechnology (IBT) Group, Research and Technical of health promoting products in the world market Services of Callaghan Innovation, New Zealand. depends on the stability and safety of added bioactives. She graduated in Iran before her PhD at the Technological advancement is needed to manipulate matter at molecular level to protect functionality against University of California, Santa Barbara (UCSB), environmental factors, mask unpleasant aroma, U.S.A. During her PhD she developed and assessed extend shelf-life, and improve bioavailability. Food-grade encapsulants with the ability to protect sensitive functionality of series of new stimuli-responsive lipid compounds are robust platforms for functional delivery materials for gene delivery. Her work is published in of bioactives such as vitamins. While the sensitivity of vitamins to environmental degradation factors (e.g. UV) multiple journals with one selected by the Editor of varies for each vitamin, such degradation can lead to the Langmuir Journal for the cover of July 2012. loss of bioactivity, significant molecular deterioration, and production of toxins (Fu P., Photochem Photobiol 2007;83(2):409). Her current research in Lipids Team of Callaghan Innovation is on development of functional lipid- We report on development and characterization of functional delivery systems using food-grade materials based materials with applications in cosmeceuticals for micro-encapsulation of liposoluble bioactives such and nutraceuticals. as vitamin A, E and D3 in our lab. The delivery systems are prepared with food-grade materials, processed by food-grade friendly methods, and evaluated for their structure, size, and shelf-life stability against oxidation using Scanning Electron Microscope, Zetasizer nano, and Oxitest. The outcome of this study is relevant to the development of an effective platform through the selection of appropriate delivery system. Affiliations: Callaghan Innovation; Wellington, New Zealand 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Joseph Chan BEAUTY IS ART (A PERSPECTIVE ON THE USE OF SURFACTANTS TO EXEMPLIFY BEAUTY) ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact JOSEPH CHAN Company Details: Stepan Company Stepan Company, Market Manager Corporate Headquarters, 22 West Frontage Rd Northfield, Illinois 60093, USA BIO P: (847) 448-7500 www.stepan.com Joseph Chan is currently working as a Market Beauty is Art (A perspective on the use of surfactants to exemplify beauty) Manager (Consumer) at Stepan Company. He listens to the needs of the customer market in Art is an expression of our thoughts, APAC, and helps to provide solutions for his emotions, intuition, and desires, but it is even more personal than that: it’s about sharing the customers. He also believes in building relationships way we experience the world, which for many with his customers and champions outreach is an extension of personality. Personality can activities such as tradeshow participation and be considered to be the soul of beauty. A good personality can make even the plain-looking seminar presentations. Joseph had served many person look beautiful. Personality signifies roles, including Senior Scientist, Consumer Product the inner psychological characteristics that reflect how a person reacts to his environment. Chemist and Chemist during his career at Stepan. Personality shows the individual choices for various products and brands. It helps the Prior to Stepan, Joseph worked as a Lecturer at marketers in deciding when and how to Singapore Polytechnic and worked as a Chemist in promote the product. Croda. He helped develop new products, test In our presentation, we will attempt to relate methods and upscale manufacturing projects. personal care products and ingredients to their Joseph is currently pursuing his Master of Business associated personality traits such as adventurous, gentle and stylish etc. We will Administration from Singapore University of Social share with the audiences some unique Sciences. He obtained his Master's degree in characteristics of the personal care products Chemistry from National University of Singapore and ingredients such as sulfate-free, non-irritating surfactants and silicone-free etc. (NUS) in 2009. He also obtained his Bachelor's We will also share how these product or degree in Chemistry from NUS in 2001. Joseph was ingredient characteristics exemplifies a specific personality trait. conferred Dean's List in 2000. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Patrycja Pytel EXCITING FINDINGS FROM IN-COSMETICS innovations ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact PATRYCJA PYTEL The Art of Never Ending Curiosity - Verital exciting findings from In-Cosmetics In a fast paced and changing world, the BIO evolution of cosmetic concepts and formulations must stay ahead in an artful Dr Patrycja Pytel is a director and co-founder of way, keeping end users of finished cosmetic products satisfied and curious Verital Innovations; a New Zealand company for future innovations. The cosmetic dedicated to the cosmetic & personal care industry, industry is a living and evolving machine supplying sustainable, natural, organic, ethical, whose aim is for perfection, always leaving efficacious and clinically-proven ingredients. doors open for new ideas and creations. It is revolutionary, caring, constantly evolving by staying in touch with the needs Patrycja holds a Master of Science degree in of an inquisitive audience. Biological Chemistry from Jagiellonian University (Krakow) and PhD in Chemistry from the University This presentation will describe new of Auckland. ingredients and concepts that have been launched at In-Cos Global Amsterdam 2018 and will be helpful in the art of Before moving into sales and business management satisfying consumers of finished cosmetic roles and founding Verital Innovations she worked and personal care products. as a Formulation Scientist in Pliva Kraków Pharmaceutical Company, a Tutor at The University of Auckland and as a R&D Chemist at API Consumer Brands. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Helen Costanza & Michelle Dalli BE AUTHENIC WITH BASF CARE CREATIONS ABSTRACT Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact HELEN COSTANZA & MICHELE DALLI BASF Company Details: BASF Australia Ltd, Level 12 BIO 28 Freshwater Place, Southbank, VIC 3006 Australia E: Michele.dalli@basf.com Helen Costanza E: Helen.costanza@basf.com I first entered the world of Personal Care in 2001 Author: Aurelie Saintigny when l joined then Henkel, which soon after became Presenting Authors: Michele Dalli and Cognis. I worked in the Customer Service role for Helen Costanza 6 and half years before leaving Cognis to pursue a Be Authenic with BASF Care Creations role in the Building Industry which is my background as a qualified Architectural Draftsperson. Through BASF Care Creations™ cares beyond ingredients, trying to provide various options my continued relationship with Dr Teresa Harding to enhance each experience in the moments I was persuaded to return to the Personal Care of pampering and caring oneself. Industry in 2013 joining BASF as the Distributor Driven by trends, from innovative textures Manager for ANZ. to unique sensory we seek for opportunities to fulfil needs and wants of consumers Michele Dalli using solutions. After completing my Bachelor of Science Degree, The world of Cosmetics is shaped by I joined Henkel in the Quality Control Department in diverse and changing lifestyle trends. 1997. In 2001 this division was carved out and If we look and listen closely we can draw become Cognis, my role was then working solely inspiration from the patterns that emerge – like the merging of authentic, nature oriented in the lab as Development & Technical Service lifestyles and sophisticated beauty. Chemist. In 2011 Cognis was purchased by BASF, and once again my role changed to Technical Sales Specialist and Account Management. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Daniela Lima THE NEW GREENERY PRESENTATION Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact DANIELA LIMA The New Greenery Connell Bros, Business Development Manager Ecology has been around for decades (especially in western countries), but it has now taken on a new meaning. Indeed, from the negative and passive approach typical of the 70’s and 80’s, today it has turned into a positive and proactive concept among BIO consumers: the think green ideology. People are more optimistic towards the future and believe that our actions are important and can save the environment. Therefore, Daniela Lima is the Business Development Manager there is an increased opportunity for companies, as clients are more willing to pay a higher price if this means buying products which are of Personal Care for Connell Bros in AUS. eco-friendly and, at the same time, produced in a sustainable way. Daniela has been working in the cosmetic industry However, it is really important for brands to understand that they do not accept anymore the parallelism “organic = ugly and not for 17 years. Her knowledge covers both Australia appealing”, as they expect cosmetics and beauty products to be at the same time: and Brazil. • natural and organic, but also • beautiful at sight, appealing and Her extensive technical know how covers R&D as • highly effective well as Innovation. Based on their openness / closeness towards the future, and on their individual rather than sociological focus, we can divide 4 groups of consumers answering this macro-trend: She has developed many formulations such as • Eco-luxury: it’s the meeting point between nature and science, as consumer accept a complete integration between nature and the sunscreens, anti-aging, whitening, tooth paste just highest technologies if this means having more effective and per- sonalized products. Brands communication must involve these key to name a few. words: élite experiences, luxury, technology, ostentation. • Eco-iconic: they are sensitive to social recognition, as they identify She has been working at CBC for almost 3 years in themselves in green and natural products through which they are able to express their believes and who they are. Communication a technical sales role to further enhance her career must turn around social media, bran identity, appearance and social status. in the PHC industry. • Eco-healthy: they feel personally responsible for the future of the environment and the society; they refuse completely synthetic chemicals as they are worried for the damages to their health (importance of vegan cosmetics and food for skin, with the mantra “if you wouldn’t eat it, don’t put it on your skin”). • Green consciousness: they are the more informed consumers: they look for certifications and can read the INCI of the products, therefore and they are not easily brainwashed by communication. They want more than just natural products, as they expect a con- crete commitment of the brand in sustainable and green projects. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
Dr Ted Kim EOSIDIN - THE IMMUNO-MODULATOR FOR INDOOR POLLUTION CONTROL ABSTRACT DR TED KIM Click on Speaker's name for direct email contact Eosidin - The immuno-modulator for Biospectrum, Director, Head of Sales indoor pollution control & Marketing Eosidin is the first product targeting BIO specifically indoor pollution and tackling skin immuno-modulation to avoid Ted Kim took over the responsibility as head atopic-prone skin condition and hypersensitivity. of BioSpectrum’s sales and marketing since September 2014. Joining BioSpectrum in 2013, It is a natural active ingredient extracted Ted has demonstrated excellent management and from green citrus unshiu originated from communication with global partners. He was named Jeju island in Korea, a UNESCO heritage as director in March 2016. protected island. Citrus unshiu is rich in synephrine and hesperidin, highly potent molecules that play a major role in Ted’s technical knowledge in cosmetic ingredients regulating the eotaxin synthesis process, is matched by his academic background. He responsible for histamine release. studied at POSTECH in Korea and finished Ph.D. from the Department of Life Sciences majoring in Molecular biology in 2014. 2018 Annual NZSCC Conference - Wellington, New Zealand
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