World Heritage The most highly protected areas in Australia - National Parks Association of Queensland
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Magazine of National Parks Association of Queensland World Heritage The most highly protected areas in Australia PLUS Abuse it...and lose it Reflections on 60 years of National Park experiences ALSO FEATURED Main Range National Park Hastings River mouse Issue 18 December 2017 - January 2018 1
Contents From the President������������������������� 3 World Heritage - an introduction������ 4 Main Range National Park.............. 10 Hastings River mouse.................... 12 FROM THE PRESIDENT Abuse it...and lose it - The National Park Experience......... 13 reflections on 60 years of national Spotlight: Ranger of the Month....... 14 park experiences���������������������������� 8 What’s On / Vale........................... 15 Editorial team Advertising enquiries Jeannie Rice and Marika Strand. Please email admin@npaq.org.au or phone (07) 3367 0878. Graeme Bartrim President, National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ) Contributor guidelines Advertising policy NPAQ invites contributions to Protected Advertisements are required to align with articles. Please email admin@npaq.org.au for a relevant NPAQ policies. NPAQ reserves the At university a few years ago one of to make long term decisions.” that any new national parks are to be schedule of future editions. right to refuse any advertisement at any time. Advertisement in Protected does not imply the text books was The Theory of •“It’s time for the conservation declared only if sufficient management Contributors, please include contact details NPAQ’s endorsement of products or services. Island Biogeography published in movement to get a big goal instead of budget is allocated may have perverse and brief personal summary. Articles can be 1967 and written by Robert MacArthur aiming for incremental progress.” outcomes. There are many initiatives submitted via email or hard copy. Digital photos Copyright and disclaimer and Edward O. Wilson. The book to conserve or restore biodiversity, should be minimum 300dpi. discusses the number of species •“Our goal should be to preserve half however it is questionable that long NPAQ retains copyright of Protected. Articles of the planet to protect around 80% of in an isolated environment being term conservation outcomes will be Cover image may be quoted provided that appropriate acknowledgement occurs in the reproduction determined by rates of extinction the world’s species.” achieved. For example, companies, as Wet sclerophyll forest - Mt Barney National and use of material. and immigration. It also recognises It is of great interest to place this required, spend large sums of money Park that different evolutionary paths can goal in context. In 2005, scientists at on biodiversity offsets, often where Photo: NPAQ Image library Articles in Protected do not necessarily reflect NPAQ’s opinion or position. be taken. This book influenced the the University of Wisconsin-Madison the science is poorly understood, and design of conservation areas. As a estimated that 40% of land, globally, outcomes may not be in perpetuity. young student this was of interest and was used for farming (75% of this Legally protected areas remain About NPAQ enough was learned to ensure exams devoted to growing feed for livestock) the best mechanism to conserve were passed. There were of course with an additional 3% occupied by biodiversity values. Mission statement other interests and priorities that a urban development. Questions abound: do we as a The National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ) student with no responsibilities needed promotes the preservation, expansion and good As of 2014 it was estimated that community emulate my student to pursue. days, i.e. finding issues and potential management of national parks in Queensland. 15.4% of global terrestrial land was E.O. Wilson continued his protected. solutions of some interest, but Council Staff distinguished, and on occasion, In October 2010, the Conference focusing greater attention on the President Graeme Bartrim Business Development Officer Marika Strand controversial career. As Professor immediate, and at times pleasurable, of the Parties in Nagoya, Japan, Vice Presidents Yvonne Parsons Conservation Officer Laura Hahn Emeritus at Harvard, Foreign Policy, in distractions? Can we genuinely come proposed that 17% of land and 10% of Geoff Miller Project & Office Administrator 2005 he was named one of the world’s to grips with the long term needs of Jeannie Rice the world’s oceans be protected and Hon Treasurer Neil Williams one hundred leading intellectuals. His biodiversity conservation? Can we that peoples be aware of the values words have often been challenging, utilize the considered thinking of great Hon Secretary Debra Marwedel of biodiversity by 2020. Australia Asst Hon Secretary Jacqueline Rose’Meyer Contact details including in his recent 2016 book Half Earth: Our Planet’s Fight for Life. In is a participant in this. In 2014 the minds such as E.O. Wilson? Councillors David Ball Office Unit 10/36 Finchley St, Milton Australian Government Department Wishing you a happy and peaceful this book, or in commentary around, it Christmas and looking forward to Suzanne Cooper Post PO Box 1040, Milton QLD 4064 of Environment, whilst reporting that Wilson states: creating and seizing opportunities in Julie Hainsworth Phone (07) 3367 0878 clearing and fragmentation remain Daniel Kelly Web www.npaq.org.au •“The principal cause of extinction key threats to biodiversity, was able the coming year. Denis McMullen Email admin@npaq.org.au is habitat loss. With reduced area to report much progress in achieving References: Alexsis Wilson ABN 60 206 792 095 the number of species that can be nationally protected areas of 16.25% sustained, declines.” Australian Government Department of land and 36.2% waters. However, Environment (2014) Australia’s Fifth National Want to get involved with NPAQ? •“When people are encouraged to in 2016 the Biodiversity working Report to the Convention on Biological Diversity. NPAQ welcomes people from all walks of life and offers a variety of ways to be involved: take a close look at the remnants of group, whilst providing examples of Department of the Environment, Canberra. • Have fun in the bush – come • Step up – become a National • Connect with us – Facebook, nature, in its complexity, beauty and progress, also stated that the nation’s Biodiversity Working Group convened under the along on a bush walk or Parks Conservation member Instagram and Twitter majesty and when they understand biodiversity conservation strategy had Meeting of Environment Ministers (2016) Report other activity or a National Parks Protector • Stay in touch – read regular that the natural environment is the “not effectively influenced conservation on the Review of the first five years of Australia’s • Donate – support our work activities”. Biodiversity Conservation Strategy 2010-2030. • Get your hands dirty – updates on our website home of their deep history, many participate in on-ground • Volunteer on exciting projects Jeremy Hance (June 2016) Could we set aside • Share a bush adventure with become the most ardent supporters of In Queensland (where national parks half the earth for Nature? The Guardian. https:// conservation efforts • Subscribe to Protected and children – download NPAQ’s reserves.” occupying 17% is a stated target) www.theguardian.com/environment/radical- • Join us – become a member Neck of the Woods via email Kids in National Parks guide •“We are still too greedy, short- acquisition of new national parks has conservation/2016/jun/15/could-we-set-aside- slowed and government budgets are half-the-earth-for-nature SUPPORT NPAQ AND HELP MAKE A DIFFERENCE sighted and divided into warring tribes restrained. The seemingly logical view Photo: Fungus at Mossman Gorge, Daintree National Park BECOME A MEMBER, DONATE OR VOLUNTEER www.npaq.org.au/get-involved www.facebook.com/NPAQld @nationalparksassocqld @NPA_Qld 2 Connect and Protect 3
WORLD HERITAGE - AN INTRODUCTION Peter Ogilvie Former NPAQ councillor, former QPWS Manager of World Heritage and former member of the Australian Negotiating Team for the Convention on Biological Diversity World Heritage status brings a The World Heritage Convention This resulted in a marriage of of the Convention. IUCN handles natural heritage, natural beauty and aesthetic particular location as close as The extraordinary action to two, until then, totally separate To date, 193 countries have and the other two deal with cultural importance; possible to being unique in the true dismantle, relocate and reassemble movements – the conservation ratified the Convention. This is quite heritage. All organisations are (viii) to be outstanding examples sense of that word. To achieve that important Nubian monuments of nature and the preservation of extraordinary, considering that there involved if it is a mixed nomination representing major stages of earth’s status, the site has been assessed along the Nile River as a result of cultural sites – as represented are 196 countries (approximately) in (both natural and cultural). history, including the record of life, on a global scale against a number the Aswan High Dam construction by the two key international the world. The interpretation of any significant on-going geological of criteria and found to have organisations IUCN and ICOMOS. convention tends to be refined processes in the development (completed in 1970) was a crucial Administering the World Heritage outstanding universal value. over time and the World Heritage of landforms, or significant stimulus to developing a global The establishment of an Convention Even a limited knowledge of the protocol designed to protect items international convention is not Convention is no exception. Rarely, geomorphic or physiographic properties located wholly or partly of outstanding cultural heritage. a simple or rapid one. Led by The Convention requires on-going if ever, is a convention modified features; in Queensland will readily reinforce UNESCO, a group of experts expert assessment of nominations, or renegotiated - It is simply Under the auspices of (ix) to be outstanding examples the reference to outstanding developed a draft text. This text decisions related to inscription on reinterpreted. UNESCO (United Nations representing significant on-going attributes. Those World Heritage was then subjected to negotiation the World Heritage List, regular Educational Scientific and Cultural As a result, there have been ecological and biological processes Areas (WHA) are: Fraser Island at a number of meetings by teams monitoring of the management Organization), the framework for regular changes over time to in the evolution and development WHA, Great Barrier Reef WHA (in from a wide range of nations of listed sites and appraisal of a convention was developed the key document, “Operational of terrestrial, fresh water, coastal part), Australian Fossil Mammal with an interest in the outcome the threats to their continued with the assistance of ICOMOS Guidelines for the Implementation and marine ecosystems and Sites WHA (in part), Wet Tropics of and which were likely to become existence. (International Council on of the World Heritage Convention”. communities of plants and animals; Queensland WHA, and Gondwana signatories to the final product. The supreme decision-making It outlines procedures for Rainforests of Australia WHA (in Monuments and Sites). (x) to contain the most important After a long negotiating process, a body for the Convention is the nominating, managing, monitoring part). Interestingly, the original intention and significant natural habitats single text was finally agreed to by General Assembly of States Parties and reporting on World Heritage was to develop a protocol for in-situ conservation of In order to better appreciate how (comprising all signatories to the properties. for protecting only cultural all parties. On 16 November 1972, biological diversity, including those this status is achieved, the amount Convention). heritage. However, as a result of the Convention Concerning the Nomination containing threatened species and of assessment that is undertaken Protection of World Cultural However, operational matters, outstanding universal value from along the way and the on-going representation by a few influential The latest version of the and Natural Heritage (commonly including nominations, are handled the point of view of science or monitoring after the status is people within IUCN (International Operational Guidelines, dated known as the World Heritage by the World Heritage Committee conservation. conferred, it is worth taking a quick Union for the Conservation of 2016, provides ten criteria, at least Convention) was adopted by the established under Article 8. It The Convention requires that look at the Convention and the Nature), the draft convention one of which must be met in order General Conference of UNESCO. consists of representatives from 21 for a nomination to be accepted, any nomination must be able to process that has derived from its was expanded to include natural signatory nations, a percentage of clauses. heritage. It contains 38 Articles, many of and for the property to be demonstrate Outstanding Universal which are elected every two years assessed and, perhaps, inscribed Value (OUV) for the property in which are of an administrative for a four-year term. Australia has on the World Heritage List. question. The significance of a nature. It is important to appreciate a seat from 2017 to 2021. The nomination must be global, and not that the success or otherwise of a The first six criteria relate to UNESCO World Heritage Centre in simply local, or even national. The multilateral treaty relies heavily on cultural heritage while the remaining Paris services the Committee and Great Barrier Reef, for example, how it is administered. four relate to natural heritage. acts as its Secretariat. must stand out amongst all barrier After agreement, a formal They derive from Articles 1 and 2 Three international organisations in the Convention which establish coral reefs in the world. ratification process must be – IUCN, ICOMOS and ICCROM undertaken by each country what “shall be considered as The Guidelines define OUV as (International Centre for the Study cultural heritage” and what “shall follows: “...cultural and/or natural (known as a State Party) in order to of the Preservation and Restoration assert its intention to be bound by be considered as natural heritage” significance which is so exceptional of Cultural Property) – are referred respectively. as to transcend national the provisions. to in three Articles (8, 13 and 14). Being so crucial to the nomination boundaries and to be of common In August 1974, Australia was one They undertake assessments importance for present and future of the first countries to ratify the for new property nominations process and subsequent management, the four natural generations of all humanity. As World Heritage Convention. It came and oversee the procedures that such, the permanent protection into force on 17 December 1975, monitor management issues and heritage criteria are quoted here: three months after ratification by 20 threats associated with each (vii) to contain superlative natural Images: Banner: Gondwana Rainforests of Australia WHA (Tatters via Flickr); left: Fraser countries, as required by Article 33 property. phenomena or areas of exceptional Island WHA (Eloise Robertson). 4 5
of this heritage is of the highest little prospect of a future nomination been designated as World Heritage values of the property are being also designed to reinforce the List of the 19 Australian importance to the international succeeding. Australia currently in Danger, a status that recognises maintained, and (d) identifying any importance of these areas locally, World Heritage Areas: community as a whole.” has three sites on the tentative list, potential threats that need to be threats and how they are being nationally and globally. While addressed. they are managed by the country Natural: The nomination must also argue two of which are in Queensland addressed. in which they are located (and • Australian Fossil Mammal Sites the area’s integrity (or, in the case (extensions to both Fraser Island Australia has 19 world Heritage There is also a process for there are some properties which (Riversleigh / Naracoorte) (1994) of cultural heritage, authenticity). and Gondwana Rainforests). properties listed between 1981 reactive monitoring in the case of cross national boundaries), • Fraser Island (1992) Integrity looks at such matters as Assessing a nomination and 2011 – 12 natural, 4 mixed, a property where specific threats have been identified, or which the Convention gives them a • Gondwana Rainforests of Australia size, boundaries, and adjoining and 3 cultural. Three are serial status that transcends national (1986,1994) The formal nomination is may be a candidate for listing as threats. It is “a measure of the properties, involving separate boundaries. • Great Barrier Reef (1981) wholeness and intactness of the submitted by the national World Heritage in Danger, or where government of a country to the locations that are not physically • Greater Blue Mountains Area natural heritage and its attributes”. some form of development may Article 4 explains the duty of UNESCO World Heritage Centre, connected. each State Party “…of ensuring (2000) be contemplated that could affect Finally, the nomination must which then passes it on to IUCN Monitoring World Heritage the values. A State Party may be the identification, protection, • Heard and McDonald Islands explain how the area will be (natural) or ICOMOS (cultural) or invited to inform the World Heritage conservation, presentation and (1997) protected and managed. This The architects of the Convention both (mixed). Committee of any actions that may transmission to future generations • Lord Howe Island Group (1982) includes appropriate “long-term realised that on-going monitoring impact on OUV. This process has of the cultural and natural heritage • Macquarie Island (1997) legislative, regulatory, institutional Following detailed inspections and accountability processes were been invoked in relation to the ...” Contemplate each of those • Ningaloo Coast (2011) and/or traditional protection”. and assessments, their essential to ensure that countries Great Barrier Reef WHA. responsibilities and it is abundantly • Purnululu National Park (2003) recommendations are made to undertook their obligations under Though the nomination of a World Three years ago a further clear this is no small task. • Shark Bay, Western Australia the World Heritage Committee the Convention. It is considered to Heritage property is a matter for the monitoring and reporting exercise, In Australia, a large component (1991) which decides to (a) reject the be one of the most comprehensive national government, in Australia called the IUCN World Heritage of all the 16 natural heritage sites • Wet Tropics of Queensland (1988) nomination, (b) send it back for reporting systems for any the States invariably prepare a Outlook, was developed for natural are declared national parks or Cultural: further particulars, or (c) accept multilateral convention. large part of the nomination material heritage sites. It provides an marine parks. That status under • Australian Convict Sites (2010) and are generally responsible for the nomination and inscribe the Every six years each State property on the World Heritage List. independent assessment of the State or Commonwealth legislation, • Royal Exhibition Building and day-to-day management of most of Party is required to produce a combined with World Heritage state of conservation for all 206 Carlton Gardens (2004) the properties. Globally, at the time of writing, periodic report for each of its listing (international law), makes natural heritage sites across the • Sydney Opera House (2007) Nevertheless, the primary there are 1073 World Heritage properties, providing advice on a world. them the most highly protected properties –206 natural sites, range of matters. These include Mixed: legislation protecting such areas in Australia. They are areas to 832 cultural sites, and 35 mixed (a) application of the Convention, The second report was released • Kakadu National Park properties is the Commonwealth cherish, fight for, and share with the sites – inscribed on the World (b) any change in the state of in November 2017 and allocated (1981,1987,1992) Environment Protection and rest of the world. Heritage List. 54 of these have conservation, (c) whether the all properties to one of four • Tasmanian Wilderness (1982,1989) Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999, categories: (i) good (20%), (ii) Images: Banner: Wet Tropics of Queensland • Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park which ensures the World Heritage good with some concerns (44%), WHA (Marika Strand); left Great Barrier (1987,1994) Convention is adhered to. Under Reef WHA (Steinchen); Below: Riversleigh, (iii) significant concern (29%) and Australian Fossil Mammal Sites WHA (James • Willandra Lakes Region (1981) the Australian Constitution, the (iv) critical (7%). Three Australian Fitzgerald via Creative Commons) Commonwealth can override State properties fell into the significant legislation on matters involving an concern category (Great Barrier international treaty. Reef, Kakadu National Park, and More recently, a stipulation has Wet Tropics of Queensland). been introduced requiring a State The report is available at www. Party to place a potential site on worldheritageoutlook.iucn.org. a tentative list at least one year Conclusion before a formal nomination is presented. This article aims to provide an understanding of how the This allows UNESCO to carry nomination, selection and out a preliminary assessment and monitoring processes of World perhaps advise whether there is Heritage Areas operate. It is 6 7
ABUSE IT....AND LOSE IT Reflections on 60 years of national park experiences Don Vollmerhause Teacher and avid bushwalker John Muir, an ardent American too popular in some areas – with Movement in the parks has been is a lodge with deluxe cabins along by ourselves as most campers were adventurers who wish to explore conservationist, influenced President the result being overuse and abuse. restricted; visitors can use only the lake shore which only the wealthy discouraged by the carry-in. It was the more remote areas. Our modern Theodore Roosevelt to lobby for The reader may find it interesting to certain roads. To explore various can afford. This has been a favourite a wonderful experience, but one “toys” are not necessary in the parks. preservation of America’s natural research Yellowstone National Park. other regions, shuttle buses are with so many for so long, but it had that can never be repeated here. It is also not necessary to have beauty to the extent that “The Recent figures from 2016 show a used. Freedom of movement is become shopworn and decrepit. It is The little campground is no more commercial ventures inside the park Yellowstone Act” was passed record number of 4.25 million visitors restricted, queuing is essential – a fragile alpine area; it experiences -luxurious condominiums stretch boundaries; people can still have to protect America’s natural and 12,778 buses entered the park one has to be up early to secure a a heavy snow pack and rain so the along the shoreline. These, to me, access to modern conveniences on wonderlands. – an increase of 99.8% in the 50 seat. These necessary procedures trails through the meadows become are scars on the landscape thanks the fringes, outside the parks. This act, which was signed by years since 1966.2 diminish visitor experiences. muddy and boggy. The trail had to private developers who saw they Let us learn from the North President Ulysses S. Grant in 1872, Provision is made for the been worn down to about a foot in could make millions. As an aside, a The major problem is our constantly American experience. Let us keep laid the basis for the principles of the adventurous and hardy backcountry depth. Hikers avoided the water so parallel perhaps, the Lindeman Island increasing population. People need what we have for future generations. National Park service; Yellowstone hikers as they are dropped off at another trail beside was made. The Group comes to mind. to escape from the cities to the result was a myriad of braided trails was to be “reserved and withdrawn national and state parks. Millions various trailheads. Hikers must Australia is a relatively young References from settlement…and dedicated eroding the meadows even more. of people flock to these areas, and reserve their hikes and campsites. country, but over the short period 1. “National Parks of the West”, p.15 by and set apart as a public park… In these earlier days, horseback trail the Editors of Sunset Books and Sunset there is no escaping the impact that The parks have had to limit the of settlement, devastating changes for the benefit and enjoyment of the riding was popular, and no doubt Magazine. Published 1965 by Lane these hordes have brought over the numbers in the wilderness areas, have been wrought upon our steel-shod horses also contributed Magazine Book Company, people…preservation from injury decades. otherwise the fragile environment “sunburnt country”. We have virtually or spoiltation of all timber, mineral to the damage. A solution was 2. National Park Service, US Dept of could be damaged. raped the land in the pursuit of short- Interior https//irma.nps.gov/Stats/Reports/ deposits, natural curiosities, or My wife and I have been very found. A volunteer group, Friends of term wealth. Our leaders now must Park) wonders within the said park, and the fortunate to visit most of the national “The fragile environment could be Lake O’Hara, obtained funding and have great foresight and not plan retention in their natural condition.”1 parks in Canada and western damaged”. We have seen this vividly elicited donations from supporters for 20 or 30 years ahead; they must This act and other subsequent acts U.S.A.; our first jaunt was in 1965, at Lake O’Hara, in Yoho National Park and started to restore the area. Once plan for hundreds of years ahead were necessary after the mass and we have been constant visitors in British Columbia, Canada. Lake again, after years of restoration, there so our descendants will be able to Banner: Trout Lake, Yellowstone National harvesting of ancient sequoias in since. Those 52 years have brought O’Hara is beautiful. Once, one could is one dedicated trail made from flat Park, USA (Always Shooting, via Flickr); enjoy the unspoiled natural beauty California and the desecration of the tremendous changes; some have drive in, now access is by shuttle if rocks – a remarkable achievement. Left: Lake O’Hara, Yoho National Park, of our parks. It is obvious that the Canada (Zeljko Kozomara, via Creative Pueblo villages in the Mesa Verde. been beneficial, others detrimental. one is lucky to secure a seat. There In Yoho Park, near the village of parks will have to provide for all kinds Commons); Funding was a problem to operate Field, old rustic cabins at $50 per of people, from the grey nomad Below: Moraine Lake, Banff National Park, Canada (Gorgo, via Wikimedia Commons). Yellowstone. Additional investment night were a big part of our family’s “glampers”, to the hardy young was required, and this came from national park experience for many various railroad companies and years. These were demolished private wealthy investors who were and luxurious log cabins built. able to obtain long-term leases. Accommodation is $500 plus a night; no self-catering, meals are These private concerns have available at the on-site expensive mushroomed enormously and restaurant. It, too, is a beautiful area their wealth also. Once private looking over the Kickinghorse River commercial ventures or leases are and across to Cathedral Mountain. given, it is difficult to have the leases cancelled. The basic argument by Moraine Lake, in Banff National the leaseholders is that they are Park, is a real gem. It is situated in providing employment to locals and The Valley of the Ten Peaks, all over some income to the parks. 10,000 ft high – truly awe-inspiring and beautiful. In 1965, there was a The parks have proved popular – far small walk-in camp site. We were 8 9
PARK IN F CUS Main Range National Park John and Lyn Daly Sourced from their book: Take a Walk in Queensland’s National Parks, Southern Zone HISTORY travellers. Use of the road declined in until the 1960s. The remains of an old Early settlers to the Queen Mary Falls deep gorges, steep escarpments and are also prevalent. As you leave the 1871 following the construction of the timber jinker, a winch and old logging area, on the western slopes of the long waterfalls. rainforest areas near the falls, open The 18,400ha Main Range railway linking Warwick to Moreton Bay, chutes lie in the state forest, just Great Dividing Range, came in search At Queen Mary Falls, the headwaters eucalypt forest is predominant. The National Park has been formed by via Toowoomba. outside the national park boundary. of cedar. Much of this section of the of Spring Creek tumble 40m over a canopy consists of forest red gums, the amalgamation of several parks. Condamine Valley has since been brush box, stringybarks, wattles This World Heritage listed park now At least 13 early pioneers are buried In the early 1930s, Jack and Boyd gorge before flowing west to join the cleared for cattle, but the forest is still and kurraj ongs, finally giving way to stretches from Mt Mistake in the north, in a small cemetery, a short walk from Walton sold their assets to fund a Condamine River. The Condamine intact along many of the high ridges. shrubby undergrowth. along the western part of the scenic the Spicer’s Gap picnic ground. Words search for gold after being deceived becomes the Balonne, eventually A 78ha park was originally proclaimed flowing into the Darling and Murray, The area around Mt Mistake is the rim to Cunningham’s Gap, through the on the epitaph have been inscribed by with samples of ‘fools gold’. They to protect the falls, the gorge below before reaching the sea near Adelaide, most northerly habitat of the rarely Mt Roberts section to Wilson’s Peak hammering nails into the concrete. spent several years digging fruitlessly the falls and sections of Spring Creek a distance of over 3,000kms. This is seen Albert’s lyrebird - listen for its on the Queensland-New South Wales near the top of Mt Cordeaux before Moss’s Well, just south of the above and below the falls. An area Australia’s most extensive river system. mimicking call. Also difficult to spot are border, and west to Queen Mary Falls. the fraud was exposed and the mine camping area at Spicer’s Gap is known as Blackfellow Falls, 5kms north red-tailed black cockatoos, eastern The Scenic Rim was once an believed to take its name from Edward was abandoned. of Queen Mary Falls, is also protected North of Queen Mary Falls, bristlebirds and black-breasted button- impassible barrier between the coast Moss, the first road contractor. The under the umbrella of Main Range Blackfellow Creek tumbles 45m Cunningham’s Gap was declared quails that live around Cunningham’s and the Darling Downs. In 1827, the well provided the only water for National Park. and then 60m into a gorge to form a national park in 1909. A dirt road Gap. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos explorer Alan Cunningham sighted a travellers making their way over the Blackfellow Falls. through the Gap was completed in Main Range National Park, which and glossy black cockatoos, along gap in the mountains from the west. range. The water is now unsuitable for Rocky Creek, a tributary of Emu 1927, giving better access between was declared part of the Central with bellbirds, satin bowerbirds and Some historians believe that the gap drinking. Creek drops 120m and then 16m to Brisbane and the areas west of the Eastern Australian Rainforest Reserves crimson rosellas are much easier to originally seen by Cunningham was The Rocky Creek Falls area, just east Dividing Range. This road was sealed of Australia in December 1994, now form another twin drop waterfall in the spot around Cunningham’s Gap. in fact Spicer’s Gap, 2.5kms to the of Warwick was surveyed and gazetted in the 1940s and is now part of the known as the Gondwana Rainforests area that was originally Rocky Creek A small population of koalas inhabit south. He located Cunningham’s Gap as a Reserve for Recreation Purposes Cunningham Highway. The walking of Australia, is a very popular National Park. Hoop pine rainforest the Mt Matheson region. Brush-tailed in August 1828, and named the two as early as 1892. This small 64ha area tracks were constructed between the bushwalking destination. grows on the steep gullies and in the rock wallabies can be encountered sentinel peaks Mt Mitchell and Mt was given national park status in 1945. late 1930s and the 1950s. gorges of Rocky Creek. during the day, but are hard to spot, Cordeaux, after the Surveyor-General FEATURES Sir Thomas Mitchell and his assistant, Much of the area now contained Mt Superbus, in the southern section Vegetation types in the eastern taking cover in the tall grasses of the Main Range consists of an almost section of Main Range National Park Mt Cordeaux area. Nocturnal greater William Cordeaux. within Main Range National Park was of the park, was the site of a tragic air unbroken line of peaks, ridges and include rainforest in moist, sheltered gliders and brushtail possums are best Local Aborigines called Mt Mitchell heavily logged during the early 1900s. crash in 1955. A Lincoln bomber, flying escarpments following the edge of the from Townsville to Brisbane with a sick areas, with open eucalypt forest on the seen with a spotlight as they feed at Cooyinnirra. Mt Cordeaux was known Timber getters soon felled almost Scenic Rim in a north-south direction. exposed drier slopes. Mountain heath night. Large goannas are commonly as Niamboyoo and the gap was called all the red cedar and then began baby on board, strayed off course Many of the peaks are over 1,000m, vegetation grows along the cliff-lines seen around Spicer’s Gap camp Cappoong. harvesting hoop pine, carabeen, tulip in bad weather and crashed 50m with Mt Superbus, the highest in South and rocky outcrops and brush box ground. oak, purple laurel and pigeon berry. below the summit, killing all on board. Queensland at 1,375m. A spur leading Henry Alphen, a stockmen working trees line the creeks. The giant spear Logging was carried out in the open Remnants of the plane remain on and Platypus live in the area below Queen on Canning Downs, the first property to the 940m Mt Mistake, leaves the lily, a restricted plant species can be forest and rainforest of Mt Mistake around the mountain. Mary Falls and may occasionally be established on the Darling Downs, Great Dividing Range north-west of the seen in the park, especially on the Mt spotted with a torch after dark. Other was the first European to discover northern end of the Ramparts. Early Cordeaux walk. The lily produces vivid animals likely to be seen include ringtail Spicer’s Gap, in April 1847. A road explorers mistakenly thought this area scarlet blooms on spikes up to 4m tall. and brushtail possums, gliders, quolls, was then constructed through Spicer’s was part of the Great Dividing Range, The peak time to enjoy the flowering wallabies, pademelons, bandicoots, Gap providing the first access route hence the name, Mt Mistake. spear lily is mid-September to mid- native rats and marsupial mice. Red between Moreton Bay and the Darling The eastern escarpment of Main October. spiny crayfish also inhabit the creek Downs. Range National Park is extremely Lantana and wild raspberry have below the falls. It would be quite hard There is now a self-guiding walk steep. There are a succession of to spot the brush-tailed rock wallaby, encroached upon many of the old along the old road showing the ridges and valleys leading to the crest, even though it does live around the logging tracks. At Queen Mary Falls, different construction methods of that from the west. steep gorges, as this shy creature mist creates an ideal atmosphere for era. Bullock drays were used to carry sleeps throughout the day and is one Water erosion formed many of the tree ferns, bracken ferns and vines, supplies and wool to and from the of the rarer animals of the park. deep gorges in the Queen Mary and with staghorns and orchids flourishing Darling Downs. An inn was built across Blackfellow Falls areas of the Park. on the trees and rocky areas of the Banner: Upon Mt Mitchell. Inset: Grass trees from the current camping ground and on Mt Mitchell. PHOTOS: ANN INGHAM Water has eroded layers of basalt and gorge. Forest red gums, Sydney blue was a welcome sight for many thirsty trachyte from the Main Range, leaving gums, silky oaks and hoop pines 10 11
WILDLIFE THE NATIONAL PARK FEATURE EXPERIENCE Hastings River mouse Personal reflection on why our parks must be valued (Pseudomys oralis) Jeannie Rice Davida Allen National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ) staff National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ) member The Hastings River mouse is listed season. It can include seeds and control of weeds; In May 2017 my husband Michael between Mt Ballow and Collins Gap, as endangered in NSW (Biodiversity leaves of native grasses, insects, • Excluding grazing; Shera and I began our journey at the rabbit fence east of Mt Lindsay Conservation Act 2016), vulnerable pollen, flowers, ferns and fungi. Crosby Park in the Lockyer Valley and and half way to Richmond Gap, the in Queensland (Nature Conservation • Careful management of fire ended at O’Reilly’s Guest House in rabbit fence at Richmond Gap, the Breeding is generally August to regimes, with no prescribed burns Act 1992), and endangered nationally the Lamington plateau. end of the abandoned rabbit fence March, with individuals reaching during breeding season, an interval (Environment Protection and We began by accessing the Little just before Nungulba Peak (with all sexual maturity at one year. Females of five to ten years or more between Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999). Liverpool Range, heading south to the its wait-a-while Calamus australis), can have up to three litters per year, burns, and ensuring no more than It is a native rat-sized rodent, that Great Dividing Range, following this Tweed Trig, Point Lookout on the with 2-3 young per litter. It is believed one third of the area is burnt at any could easily be confused with a south to Wilsons Peak, turning east Lamington Plateau and the ‘Rat-a-tat’ that the females live up to three years. one time. native bush rat (Rattus fuscipes) that along the McPherson Range to finish hut region. Males are believed to visit several also occurs in the same habitat. An Of current concern is the proposal at the Lamington plateau. In deference to our predecessors nesting sites, with a home range adult Hastings River mouse has a for cabins to be constructed in Main we wondered how this journey could of around 2ha, while females tend This amazing adventure consisted of body length of 12-16cm, and weighs Range National Park, in an area be done without GPS navigation and to remain in the same area, with a walking eight to ten hours a day, and 80-120g. They have long soft grey- surrounded by Hastings River mouse 1/25,000 topographic maps. We smaller home range of about 1ha. conquering some 34 peaks. It took 24 brown fur, with lighter grey-white habitat. In addition, a proposed felt privileged to have ultra-light gear Genetic sampling has shown service trail will bisect Hastings River nights. It was deliberately the slowest fur underneath. The tail is similarly time on modern record. including two of the new generation coloured, and is almost the same there are seven genetically isolated mouse habitat, potentially fragmenting air mattresses and gloves. We had invokes a territorial instinct for us to length as their body. and distinct sub-populations of the the population. We prized beautiful and sometimes done short walks in the earlier weeks protect it. It is this instinct that is the Hastings River mouse. However, they spectacular campsites: Mt Castle to leave food at seven strategic reason for the spectacular evolution of Distinguishing features are dark Given the frailty of the Hastings are not separate sub-species. River mouse population, summit, The Ramparts north, The locations. national parks over the past century. protruding eyes, with black ring Ramparts south, Mt Mitchell summit, It is estimated that there are less is this a wise decision? It is the same instinct that people fight circling the eye, and a rounded nose. Spicer’s Peak, Mt Huntley summit, After the main walk we returned than 10,000 individual Hastings River and die for. It evokes in its host an The female Hastings River mouse Steamer Saddle, Mt Superbus to each of these sites to collect the mice in the wild. Each sub-population References unreasonable, irrational and selfish has only four teats in the groin area, summit, the campsite north of Wilsons packs we had left. We are proud to is estimated to have less than 1,000 attitude. It is why we who love, have whereas Rattus species. have eight or https://www.ehp.qld.gov.au/wildlife/ Peak rabbit fence (on Michael’s 67th say that we left these areas in a better mature individuals. threatened-species/endangered/ tried to protect our national parks more across the chest and belly. The birthday), north of Mt Clunie just condition to how we found them by endangered-animals/hastings_river_mouse. from degradation or exploitation from Hastings River mouse also lacks the The Hastings River mouse is before the rabbit fence leaves the collecting and removing the paper, html whatever source. strong musky smell of Rattus species. threatened by habitat fragmentation, McPherson Range south of Mt Ballow, plastic and metallic litter we found degradation and destruction, https://australianmuseum.net.au/hastings- along the way. It is my opinion that politicians from Populations of the mouse have been river-mouse Mt Ballow summit, two campsites predation, weed invasion, and altered both major parties in Queensland found from Muswellbrook NSW, to For our 24 night adventure, which http://www.environment.gov.au/cgi-bin/sprat/ were clearly devoid of this love and Cunningham’s Gap in Queensland. fire regimes. Having isolated sub- featured superlative vistas, individual public/publicspecies.pl?taxon_id=98 instinct when legislation was passed The majority of habitat sites are in populations, there is also a risk of challenges and wonderful flora, we http://www.environment.gov.au/biodiversity/ to allow financial exploitation under the NSW, however, the largest known inbreeding. paid the princely sum of $304.80 to threatened/publications/recovery/ disguise of ‘eco-tourism’. The change populations are in Queensland, within The Recovery Plan for the Hastings pseudomys-oralis the Queensland Parks and Wildlife from protection to profit in this region Lamington and Main Range National River Mouse (April 2005) makes http://bie.ala.org.au/species/ Service. will inevitably result in the erosion of Parks in particular. recommendations to reduce threats urn:lsid:biodiversity.org.au:afd. The journey was unforgettable, the wilderness that makes the region and support the recovery of the taxon:90d9427a-e91d-433b-982c- The habitat of the Hastings River and I am left spellbound by this so spectacular. 760f40d71d3e mouse ranges from wet or dry open species. stunning asset we have in south-east Gainsdale Pty Ltd and Environment Against these odds Michael and I forest, woodland, or rainforest margins Some of the recommendations for Queensland. As a national park with Assessment Branch, EPBC Referral No will continue to install our territorial with a dense understory of grass, management of known Hastings River 2016/7847 Gainsdale Scenic Rim Trail. the Gondwana World Heritage Area, instincts in our children and our eight heath and ferns, at elevations between mouse habitat include: this land is for the community and all grandchildren. 300-1250m. Being nocturnal, they Banner: Fern understory at Mt Barney generations to cherish. shelter during the day in hollow • Maintaining buffers with no (NPAQ Image library); vegetation clearing, or removal of The Scenic Rim is our backyard: Clockwise from top: Ramparts, Main Range logs, tree hollows, soil holes or rock Inset: Hastings River mouse (Photo by everyone’s backyard, our land, your tree hollows, hollow logs, etc.; National Park; lily on Mt Mitchell; tree on Mt cavities. Ian Gynther © The State of Queensland land, our property, your property. We Cordeaux. (Department of Environment and Heritage Their diet varies depending on the • Control of feral animals such as Protection). have grown to love it, and this love PHOTOS: DAVIDA ALLEN (TOP); ANN INGHAM (ABOVE); DAVID BALL (LEFT) foxes, feral pigs and cats, and 12 13
RANGER OF WHAT’S Bequest NPAQ was honoured to recently receive THE MONTH N a bequest from the estate of Flora Jessamine Mary Elliott. We thank Ms Elliott for remembering NPAQ in her will and are grateful for her contribution. Insights into the diverse backgrounds and day-to-day NPAQ activities ianpeacock@hotmail.com) Directions: Travel north on the Bruce Hwy, Ms Elliott’s bequest will be used to further the aims and mission of the Association. activities of Queensland’s park rangers exit left after Caboolture. Follow the signs to < New Year Twilight Celebration Pumiceston Rd, Toorbul, Donnybrook. Kelvin Quinn Jindalee Boat Ramp Park After exit, turn right onto Pumicestone Rd and follow for 6.7km. Turn left into Vale Ranger in Charge, Bunya Mountains National Park, Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service (QPWS) This is a pleasant park with modern facilities, NPAQ is saddened by the recent passing in amongst shady trees and overlooking the Donnybrook Rd. Travel for 260m, and park in the parking bays on right. of life members, Robert Kay, Marjorie Brisbane River. Semple and Lorraine Gunn. Kelvin Quinn is Ranger in Charge The walk is through bushland beside the Bring: Binoculars, hat, sunscreen, insect Our sincere condolences to their families at Bunya Mountains National Park. he was young and full of questions river, and the park has some features from repellent, water, chair, morning tea and lunch (optional). and friends. and wonderment. Brisbane’s early history. His love and fascination for the The walk will be followed by nibbles, bubbly/ Robert joined NPAQ in 1964 and became environment at an early age led to What is the best part about a life member in 1975. After retirement to a dream of one day being part of a working in a national park? juice and a hearty snack. (If you have dietary F Coomera River Circuit Bribie Island, he led several activites on requests, please contact the leaders). team that looked after our special The beauty is all around—it’s ever- A picturesque on-track walk passing the island. For catering purposes nominations will places. changing. Sometimes quick and through rainforest and giant brush box Marjorie joined NPAQ in 1966 and definitely close on Wednesday 3 January obvious, such as when a bunya cone 2018. forest. A lookout platform provides became a life member in 1975. Marjorie How long have you worked in magnificent views of the 160m gorge and comes thumping down to the ground served as an NPAQ Councillor for national parks? If you do not wish to do the walk, you are the Coomera Falls. from a great height. Sometimes the a number of years and significantly most welcome to join the group staying at I proudly started work with QPWS The track follows the river upstream through contributed to the Association. She was changes are slow and subtle, like the the park for a chat. 31 years ago. Being a Park Ranger the rainforest, crossing the river several an avid botanist, and was involved with young tree that starts its long climb Date: Sunday, 7 January 2018 the Queensland Herbarium. She shared was (and still is) a highly-sought- times allowing views of waterfalls and into the canopy to reach the sun. Meet: 4pm at Jindalee Boat Ramp Park, hopefully, lamington crays, before rejoining her considerable botanical knowledge after job! It took lots of determination I enjoy sharing my knowledge with near the corner of Mount Ommaney Drive the Border track for the trek back to Binna with members on many extended and to complete my 3-year degree and visitors to help them have their own and Curragundi Road, Jindalee. Burra. weekend camping trips. then take on various jobs, including great experiences in parks. Grade: Easy Some rock-hopping is necessary at the river Lorraine Gunn and her husband Alan park volunteering, before I gained a What is your top tip for visitors to Cost: $12 per person (includes $5 per crossings. joined NPAQ and became life members position with QPWS. parks for bushwalking? person NPAQ fee) payable to the NPAQ Date: Sunday, 4 February 2018 in 1967. Which parks have you worked in? office Meet: 8:15am at Binna Burra top carpark QPWS ranger Kelvin Quinn holding a bunya Take time to enjoy the whole journey. I’ve volunteered in Lamington, Mount cone (above). Bring: Folding chair, water bottle, sun Grade: Intermediate Don’t just come for a quick look at screen, hat, walk shoes and walking pole Barney and D’Aguilar in the south- PHOTOS: QUEENSLAND GOVERNMENT (ABOVE) & the forest—stay to appreciate the (17.4km track including some rock-hopping east; and at Magnetic Island and YVONNE PARSONS (BANNER) Leaders: Len and Laurelle Lowry at river crossings, will requires a moderate intricate parts of it. Watch tiny spiders (0428 335 572, onthewallaby@live.com.au) level of fitness) Mount Spec (Paluma Range) in the or insects carefully finding their way north. As a Park Ranger, I’ve worked truly appreciated by visitors; sleeping in the leaf litter; notice fungi emerging Cost: $5 per person NPAQ fee in Carnarvon Gorge, Townsville Town under the stars; speaking with the to recycle nutrients from dead timber; Æ Birding at Toorbul Leader: Frank Freeman (07 3824 3954, Common and Cape Pallarenda, Elders; or simply working with a team listen for birds or frogs calling to their Our first bird outing for 2018 will be to 0427 655 514, frank_fr@bigpond.net.au) Bowling Green Bay, and now Bunya that cares and has fun along the way. mates; and breathe in the scents of Toorbul. Directions: From Brisbane, travel down the Mountains. In between, I’ve also done damp soil or flowering plants. Office Closure M1 to Nerang. From Nerang follow the signs Can you describe your favourite Due to a high tide near midday, we will first short stints at Mount Moffat, Salvator to Binna Burra. Allow 1.75 to 2 hours driving national parks experience? What is your top tip for campers? meet up on Donnybrook Road. We will walk time. Carpooling is encouraged. Rosa, Girraween, Helidon Hills, an old road off Meldale Road, view birds on My favourite experiences are about Have the correct equipment! Wishing all our members and supporters, Cania Gorge, Expedition, Barakula, Bishop’s Marsh, then walk some backroads Bring: Hat, light jacket, rain gear (just in spending time with family and friends staff and volunteers, a very Merry Dunmore, Townsville, Ingham, Whether you enjoy roughing it, or near the Toorbul roost. case), torch, whistle, 2+ litres of water, Christmas and a Happy New Year. Charters Towers areas and even in parks. When backpacking with my “glamping” make sure you have a morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea. We should see wader birds from late mid- May your holidays be filled with fun, some Victorian parks. You could say wife and (at the time) five-year-old good waterproof tent or tarp (or van) morning as they are pushed up with the daughter at Carnarvon Gorge, we laughter and joy. I’ve been around! and raincoat. Have suitable poles rising tide. camped at Big Bend and watched and ropes to self-support the shelter We hope that you all have some time Date: Sunday, 21 January 2018 What has been your most memorable moment? the area come alive with the changing sunlight on the cliff faces and and bring chairs, a good book or wet weather games for the kids. Meet: 7:30am on Donnybrook Road, Toorbul (as per directions). NPAQ events relax and get out and connect with our National Parks. There are so many special moments reflections in the creek. As a family of NPAQ Member’s Meeting NPAQ advises that our office will be it’s hard to name just one! A peaceful four, we camped across the Simpson Grade: Easy closed from Friday 22nd December 2017 The first NPAQ member’s meeting for 2018 sunset; climbing a mountain in the Desert with the endless night sky to Monday 8th of January 2018. NPAQ thanks Kelvin for taking time to Cost: $5 per person NPAQ fee will be held: moonlight; camping with the kids and above. And I’ve had some special answer our questions. We appreciate Leader: Ian Peacock (07 3359 0318, Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 seeing fireflies; exploring deserts and walks on the Barker Creek Circuit at the work all QPWS rangers undertake in JOIN, DONATE, SUBSCRIBE, Time: 7.15pm for 7.30pm start rainforests; experiencing floods; being Bunya Mountains with my son when protecting Queensland’s national parks. For more information on VOLUNTEER Activities, visit our website: Venue: NPAQ Office, 10/36 Finchley St, Milton www.npaq.org.au www.npaq.org.au/events 14 15
This year choose a rubbish-free Christmas gift: Donate to NPAQ on behalf of a friend or family member! You will be emailed a certificate that you can forward to your loved one, or print for them, letting them know of your generous gift. Simply donate online www.npaq.org.au/get-involved#donate and in the reference area let us know whom the donation is on behalf of. A donation has been made to the National Parks Association of Queensland by Your Name on behalf of Their Name for Christmas 2017 This donation will be used to further the National Parks Association of Queensland's mission to advocate for the protection, expansion and good management of protected areas in Queensland. Find out more: www.npaq.org.au Thank you for your support! National Parks Association of Queensland Inc. PO Box 1040 Milton QLD 4064 07 3367 0878 admin@npaq.org.au www.npaq.org.au 16
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