Valuing Our Clothes: the cost of UK fashion - July 2017 - Waste and Resources ...
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Valuing Our Clothes: the cost of UK fashion July 2017
Foreword
In 2012, WRAP published Valuing Now, five years on, WRAP has updated its Despite these improvements, the carbon
Our Clothes, a pioneering report evidence base. This new report, Valuing footprint of clothing in use in the UK has
Our Clothes: the cost of UK fashion, looks risen to 26.2 million tonnes CO2e in 2016,
looking at the environmental at the progress that has been made since up from 24 million tonnes in 2012 due to
impact of the whole journey of 2012 and identifies key opportunities a combination of relatively low prices and
clothing, from raw materials for businesses to further reduce the increased population. By examining each
and manufacturing, to environmental impacts of clothing. stage of a garment’s life from production
purchase, use and disposal. to disposal, WRAP has identified key areas
It demonstrates the value of collaborative
where further focus is required to build on
action, showing that SCAP signatories have
The report set the scene for collaborative the improvements achieved through SCAP.
outperformed the industry, cutting carbon,
change through the Sustainable Clothing water, and waste from their businesses. Clothing manufacture and sales in the
Action Plan 2020 (SCAP), an industry-wide It also outlines new social trends and UK is still the fourth largest pressure
commitment, convened by WRAP and changes in how we all care for and keep on our natural resources after housing,
supported by UK governments. Through our clothes, showing that, as a nation, transport and food. To address this huge
SCAP, WRAP has worked with clothing we now tend to keep our clothes longer, challenge, we all need to learn to value
designers, brands, manufacturers, launder them at lower temperatures and our clothes more.
retailers, and re-use and recycling tumble-dry and iron them less.
organisations to drive more sustainable Steve Creed
production and consumption, and to Director Business Programmes, WRAP
increase textiles re-use and recycling.
By examining each stage of a garment’s life from production to disposal,
WRAP has identified key areas where further focus is required to build on
the improvements achieved through SCAP.
2 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Foreword
Contents
SECTION A SECTION B SECTION C SECTION D
Key findings
Valuing Taking UK The SCAP
Our Clothes: stock: clothing: agreement
setting UK clothing impacts and
the scene consumption footprints
Page 4 Page 6 Page 8 Page 10 Page 20
SECTION E SECTION F SECTION G SECTION H
Conclusions
How do we Sustainable Valuing our More tailored
measure up? fibre choices: customers: solutions:
SCAP achievements key to reducing behavioural research meeting SCAP
2012-2015 impact and campaigns targets by 2020
Page 24 Page 27 Page 31 Page 44 Page 51
3 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Contents
Key findings 4 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Key findings
KEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Key findings
In 2012, WRAP released the The report also shared findings from
pioneering ‘Valuing Our Clothes’ a major piece of consumer research,
examining the way in which people
Our research has found that:
report. It examined the carbon, buy, use, and dispose of their clothing.
water, and waste footprints of Valuing Our Clothes1 identified a number yy SCAP signatories have made significant improvements, reducing carbon by
clothing throughout its life cycle, of opportunities for businesses in the 10.6%, water by 13.5%, and waste across the product life cycle by 0.8%,
for one year in the UK. UK to reduce the environmental burden per tonne of clothing since 2012. This is the equivalent of one and a half hot
of the whole clothing supply chain. air balloons of carbon; over 23 thousand baths full of water; and the
Following on from WRAP’s report,
equivalent of 30 pairs of women’s jeans for every tonne of clothing sold;
the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan
(SCAP) Commitment, a collaborative yy the amount of clothing in household residual waste in the UK has reduced by
framework, and voluntary agreement of
50,000 tonnes since 2012;
organisations across the supply chain,
was launched with the aim of reducing yy the carbon footprint has been reduced by 700,000 tonnes CO2e through
their carbon, water, and waste impacts.
people washing their clothes at lower temperatures, and ironing and tumble
Five years later, WRAP has reviewed the drying less frequently, and further savings are possible in this area;
evidence base and now presents the
This new report latest research on the environmental
impacts of the clothing industry in the
yy big environmental savings can be made by focusing on ‘priority products’;
highlights both UK, and an update on the progress and yy switching to sustainable cotton continues to present one of the biggest
opportunities and achievements of SCAP so far. This new
report highlights opportunities and
opportunities for clothing retailers and brands; and further progress in this
area could meet the SCAP target for water; and
actions that can be actions that can be taken across the
taken across the sector in order to meet the SCAP targets.
It shows where impacts are making a real
yy with rising global demand for clothing we urgently need to secure new
sources of materials and find new markets for used clothing.
sector difference and highlights where more
Fibre to fibre recycling is a key opportunity.
action is needed.
5 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Key Findings
SECTION A Valuing Our Clothes: setting the scene 6 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing Our Clothes: setting the scene
KEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Valuing Our Clothes:
setting the scene
Fashion is a crucial part of the UK The clothing industry is highly complex
and European economies. Across and understanding how it interacts can
help identify opportunities for change.
the EU and UK, clothing is the
eighth largest sector in terms of Opportunities for industry to take action
include:
household spending2. However,
it is ranked fourth in terms of its yy increasing the adoption of sustainable
fibre to reduce the water footprint;
impact on the environment. Only
yy using lower-impact processes in the
housing, transport, and food have
production of garments;
greater impacts.
yy focusing on specific garments that will
deliver the largest reductions in carbon,
These impacts occur at all stages of the water and waste footprints; and
clothing life cycle, from the production yy informing and enabling customers to
of the raw materials, and the creation of improve clothing care, repair, and re-use.
the garment, to how it is used and cared
for, and finally discarded. Better ways of
designing and producing clothing are on Any improved
the increase3, but there is a risk that these
improvements could be undermined
practices need to be
by a rise in the amount of clothes being part of a joined-up
bought. Any improved practices need
to be part of a joined-up drive to design
drive to design more
more durable clothing, and to make durable clothing, and
re-use and repair possible. Introducing
these improvements requires support
to make re-use and
from designers, retailers, customers, and repair possible
those involved in re-use and recycling.
7 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing Our Clothes: setting the scene
SECTION B Taking stock: UK clothing consumption 8 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Taking stock: UK clothing consumption
KEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Taking stock:
UK clothing consumption
In 2016, based mainly on Her WRAP’s consumer research has found
that on average, clothing lasts for 3.3 Table 1: Q: For each of these items I Table 2: Total clothing consumed in
Majesty’s Revenue and Customs want you to think about the last one you the UK for 2010, 2012, 2014, and 2016
years before it is discarded or passed
data, it is estimated that on.5 This is different from research in the wore when answering. Firstly, how long
1,130,000 tonnes of clothing first Valuing Our Clothes report when the ago did you acquire the item? Secondly,
Year
Clothing consumed
was purchased in the UK.4 lifetime of a garment was assumed to be how much longer do you think you will (tonnes)
continue to wear it?
This is an increase since 2012 - an average of 2.2 years.6 2010 1,030,000
SCAP’s baseline year - of almost The estimates in WRAP’s consumer Clothing Projected 2012 950,000
200,000 tonnes. SCAP launched textiles research and those in the original (number of lifetime
at a time when overall levels of Valuing Our Clothes report have been respondees) (years) 2014 1,080,000
produced using different methods,
consumption were low, but the as such they are not directly comparable. Coat (547) 4.58 2016 1,130,000
longer term trend has been for
The amount of clothing in active use in Dress (528) 3.62
clothing purchases to increase,
the UK in 2016 is calculated as 3.6 million
while their price has stayed low tonnes (from 3.1 million in 2012). Jumper (551) 3.46
compared to other goods.
Jeans (546) 3.40
Blouse/shirt (528) 3.03
The longer term trend has been for clothing
Trousers (549) 2.81
purchases to increase
T-shirt (554) 2.78
Top (518) 2.74
Average 3.3025
Base: SCAP Sustainable Textiles Consumer Tracker Survey,
2015 Those answering Q16 (c.75% of sample, other 25%
went to Q17), (bases in graph). Unweighted.
9 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Taking stock: UK clothing consumption
SECTION C UK clothing: impacts and footprints 10 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprints
KEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
UK clothing:
impacts and footprints
In order to pinpoint the areas The increased quantity of clothing now These include:
of opportunity and action to being purchased in the UK means that yy more energy efficient washing and Garments that
there will be a higher environmental
improve the sustainability impact from its production. However,
drying of clothes, which has reduced last longer reduce
of clothing, this section sets the carbon footprint;
people are keeping their clothes just
yy growing second hand sales and a
production and
out how and where carbon, as long, if not longer, than they used
water, and waste impacts to. Garments that last longer reduce growth in online exchange; and processing impacts,
occur in the life cycle of production and processing impacts, yy growing use of sustainable fibres by but only if new
but only if new purchases are avoided. SCAP and non-SCAP signatories.
garments. These footprints purchases are avoided
are for the UK as a whole. The Table 3 shows a decrease in the carbon
and water footprints of UK clothing per
specific achievements of SCAP tonne. There is evidence for a number
signatories are highlighted in of changes in consumer behaviour and
more detail in Section E. garment production that have led to
this reduction.7
Table 3: Changes in the carbon, water, and process waste footprints (per tonne) of
UK clothing in active use in 2012 and 2016
% change/
2012/tonne 2016/tonne
tonne
Carbon (tonnes CO2e) 25.3 23.2 -8.29%
Water (m3) 7,570 7,060 -6.68%
Waste (tonnes) 1.7 1.7 0.00%
11 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprintsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
The carbon footprint of clothing Re-use and recycling offer some carbon
bought in the UK savings because the lifetime of clothing that
Figure 1: Carbon footprint of clothing in the UK (t CO2e) in 2016, by process
is re-used or recycled is extended. Where
Despite improvements in the carbon
this displaces a sale of a new garment,10
footprint per tonne, the total footprint of Impact of the life cycle of Millions
the effects on the environment from fibre
clothing in use in the UK, including global a garment: processes in
extraction and processing are avoided. 0
and territorial emissions, was 26.2 million sequence -2 2 4 6 8 10
tonnes CO2e in 2016, up from 24 million By grouping together the processes in
tonnes in 2012. By looking at each stage Figure 1 into life-cycle phases, Figure 2 Extraction
of a garment’s life8 from production to shows the greatest emissions come from
Processing To Fibre
disposal, we can see that: fibre production and these have increased
since 2012. Transport To Yarn Producer
yy the highest contributor to the carbon
footprint of clothing is the production The ‘in-use phase’, when the garment is Pre-spinning
of fibre through polymer extrusion9 with the consumer, is third in terms of Spinning/Winding
or agriculture; impact. Changes in washing and clothing
Transport To Fabric Producer
yy other fibre preparation and processing care, and customers keeping clothes
such as spinning to make yarn, fabric in active use for longer, have seen a Weaving/Knitting
printing and dyeing, all add to the carbon reduction in environmental impacts Colouration
footprint. In particular, the heat setting in since 2012. Processing of fibre to make
Finishing
chemical and mechanical finishing has a yarn, cloth and garments is slightly more
significant than the in-use phase. Overall Transport To Garment Producer
significant effect;
carbon emissions are higher than in 2012 Making Up
yy once clothes are in use, impacts from
due to the increase in the total amount of
washing are high, although washing Transport To UK
new clothing being bought.
temperatures have reduced overall, as
has the frequency of tumble drying; and Washing
yy very low levels of carbon emissions are Drying
associated with transport and disposal Ironing
of clothing via landfill and incineration.
Disposal
Re-use UK
Re-use Overseas
Recycling
Closed Loop Recycling
Incineration
Landfill
12 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprintsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Comparing footprints between 2012 and
Figure 2: Carbon footprint of clothing in the UK (million t CO2e) in 2012,
2016, the impacts from production and Overall, despite
processing have increased, while those
and in 2016, by life cycle stage
(the impacts) in-use phase have reduced. improvements,
-4 -2 0 2 4 6 8 10
millions
12
The reduction in the carbon footprint carbon emissions
of the in-use phase since 2012 is due
to a reduction in washing temperatures are higher due to
Fibre production
and people tumble drying less often. the increase in the
Processing
total amount of new
clothing being bought
In use
2012
Re-use and recycling
2016
Figure 3: Contribution of each life cycle stage to the carbon footprint of UK
clothing in 2012 and 2016 (t CO2e)and 2016 (t CO2e)
millions
-7.5 0 7.5 15 22.5 30
Final 2012 carbon
(tonnes CO2e)
Final 2016 carbon
(tonnes CO2e)
Disposal Fibre production Processing In use
13 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprintsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
The water footprint of clothing bought The main suppliers of cotton fibre for
in the UK Figure 4: Water footprint of clothing in the UK (m3) in 2012 and 2016, the UK clothing industry have changed
comparing life cycle stages since 2012.12 Countries highlighted in
The total water footprint of clothing in
purple in Table 4 have increased supply
active use in the UK in 2016, including millions to the UK. The countries now supplying
the water consumed overseas to make
0 2000 4000 6000 8000 more of our cotton are also more likely
our clothes, was 8 billion m3 of water.
to suffer severe water stress (i.e. a high
The greatest quantity of water is used
ratio of water withdrawals to availability),
during the growing and production of
and scarcity (i.e. the ratio of the water
fibres, although water is also used
footprint to water availability, which
during colouration, fabric finishing
Fibre production can vary through the year), with the
and domestic washing.
exception of Australia and Brazil, where
Water is used most intensively in risk ratings for the country as a whole
agriculture, particularly in cotton growing. are relatively low.
Cotton is used commonly throughout the
A number of countries have high water
UK clothing supply chain, but it places
stress, including India, Pakistan, Turkey,
a burden on the locations in which it is
and the United States; while China, Brazil
grown. The high costs of producing cotton
Processing and Australia have regions with high water
increase pressure to maximise the yields
stress (demonstrated in Figure 5).
per hectare for the volume of water
available. This in turn incentivises greater
use of fertilisers and pesticides which
further affects the water supply as the
run-off pollutes local water sources.
The global average
The global average water footprint for water footprint
1 kilogram of cotton - equivalent to the In Use for 1 kilogram of
weight of one man’s shirt and a pair of
jeans is 10,000 - 20,000 litres, depending cotton - equivalent
on where it is grown.11 to the weight of
one man’s shirt and
The greatest quantity a pair of jeans - is
2012
of water is used during Re-use and
recycling 10,000 - 20,000 litres,
2016
the growing and depending on where
production of fibres it is grown
14 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprintsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Figure 5: Water risk atlas, 201513 Table 4: Cotton fibre producing
countries for the UK, water scarcity
and severe water stress ratings
Severe
Country Water
water
source scarcity15
stress14
China 44.7% 30%
India 80.2% 52%
USA 31.3% 23%
Pakistan 76.3% 75%
Brazil 0.3% 3%
Turkey 61.7% 47%
Australia 8% 5%
Uzbekistan 87.1% 48%
... the activities of the
cotton-growing, and
textile-production
industries, contribute
Overall Water Risk Medium to high risk (2-3) to freshwater
Low risk (0-1) High risk (3-4) contamination, as well
Low to medium risk (1-2) Extremely high risk (4-5) as using much of the
available clean water
15 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprintsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Figure 6: Aerial photographs of change in the Indus river basin in Pakistan at the start and end of the summer season16
June 2009 July 2009 August 2009 September 2009 October 2009 December 2009
January 2010 February 2010 April 2010 May 2010 June 2010
Although a relatively drought tolerant Communities in locations with low In 2016 alone, 7.6 billion m3 of water
crop, cotton requires irrigation in semi- incomes and poor living conditions are was consumed during the production
arid zones meaning it is still affected by particularly vulnerable to the risks of of raw materials to make clothing and
droughts. With high demand already on water scarcity, and ill-equipped to adapt 5.25 billion m3 of this was consumed
river basin catchments such as the Indus and respond to the challenges they face in the production of cotton for the UK.
River in Pakistan (Figure 6), the Murray- in a dry season. Cotton production accounts for
Darling Basin in Australia and on ground Whilst growing the crops to produce 69% of the water footprint of textiles’
and surface water supplies in general, natural fibres has a significant effect on fibre production and 65% of the total
cotton production can be problematic. water use, natural fibres also use a large water footprint.
The activities of the cotton-growing, and amount of water during the next phase of
textile-production industries, contribute clothing production. Cotton, wool, silk and
to freshwater contamination, as well as flax account for the majority of the water
using much of the available clean water footprint of textiles’ fibre production as
in areas suffering water stress. shown in Figure 7.
16 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprintsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Figure 7: Water footprint for the production
phase of each fibre type for the UK (m3) in 2016
Polyester Acrylic
Polyamide 0% 0% Polyurethane/
0% polypropylene
Flax/Linen 0%
2%
Viscose
7%
Silk
14%
Large quantities of water are used in 201618 (representing approximately 10%
the production of silk fibre. Kilogram for of the UK market). To give an idea of the
kilogram, silk has a higher water footprint scale, this is the equivalent to all the water
Cotton than cotton17. Silk fibre production had flowing from the River Severn into the sea
Wool
69% a water footprint of over 1 billion m3 of for two months.
9% water to produce just over 11,000 tonnes The Global Leadership Award in
of silk in 2016. Sustainable Apparel has reported that
Cellulosic fibres also use a large quantity the clothing industry uses over 5 trillion
of water in their production. With viscose, litres of water as a whole and 20% of
this occurs when raw material is made freshwater pollution comes from textile
into fibre ready for spinning into yarn. treatment and dyeing.19
Fibre extrusion that makes viscose used Processing, including spinning, weaving,
500 million m3 of water in 2016. A further knitting, colouration and finishing, or
80 million m3 is used in the preparation setting of the dye, also adds to the
of the fibres for spinning. This quite water footprint of clothing. The water
staggering quantity of water is required
footprint of fibre and fabric processing for
to produce just over 100,000 tonnes of
Numbers may not add up to 100% due to rounding. garments bought in 2016 in the UK was
the garments going to the UK market in around 446 million m3.
17 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprintsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
The water used to make cotton is 60%
of the total water footprint of fabric The Global Leadership
Figure 8: Water footprint for the total processing processing. This considerably outweighs
phase of each fibre type for the UK (m3) in 2016 its 43% share of the market20. There Award in Sustainable
are also significant water impacts from Apparel has reported
colouration and finishing.
Acrylic Polyamide
Polyurethane/ that the global apparel
3% 2% polypropylene
Viscose also uses a great deal of water,
industry uses over 5
mostly in preparation of the fibre
Polyester
0% (pre-spinning). Synthetic fibres affect trillion litres of water
3% the water footprint mostly during dyeing
and finishing because a high amount as a whole and 20% of
of dye and processing is needed for freshwater pollution
synthetic fibres.
comes from textile
treatment and dyeing
Viscose
21%
Cotton
60%
Flax/ Wool
Linen
6%
1%
Silk
3%
Numbers may not add up to 100% due to rounding.
18 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprintsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Process waste from clothing arising as waste. Wool must also be
production scoured to remove large quantities
of grease and waste arising from
Not all waste occurs at the end of the
preparation; and pre-spinning processes
life of a garment: it also occurs in the
for this fibre is particularly high.23
processing and production phases. In
2016, this process or ‘supply chain’ waste Filament yarns for synthetic textile
was estimated at over 800,000 tonnes21. production also require preparation
and spinning, and a certain amount
Supply chain waste arises in the country
of waste is produced during these
where the fibres or fabrics are processed
processes, although less than for
and the amount of supply chain waste
natural fibres. During colouration
varies by fabric and fibre type. Most of the
and finishing, synthetics produce
garments sold in the UK are produced
more waste than natural fibres
in Asia. Looking at individual steps, the
per kilogram of processed fibre.
majority of supply chain waste, around
440,000 tonnes, arises during preparation In garment production, all fabrics are
of fibres to make yarn and during garment likely to create waste during cutting
production, and most notably in China when a certain amount of material is
and India. lost as pieces must be cut from the cloth.
The production of natural fibres produces Having set out the significant environmental
large amounts of by-products some of challenges created by our clothes, the next
which will arise as waste. For example, section of this document will focus on the
though it has a lower carbon and water actions needed from all involved in the
footprint per tonne than cotton, during clothing industry to make lasting change.
the preparation of scutched flax, a
large amount of dust is produced (150
kilograms per tonne of material input),
and the pre-spinning stage creates a
further 50 kilograms of dust and fibre
waste per tonne of input22. Flax is a
relatively environmentally beneficial
fibre, but care must be taken during
preparation to manage the process.
Carding and combing in fibre preparation
to make yarn also creates waste. Other
natural fibres, including cotton, silk and
wool require similar preparation which
all result in dust and fibre by-products
19 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | UK clothing: impacts and footprintsSECTION D The SCAP agreement 20 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | The SCAP agreement
KEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
SCAP timeline
The Sustainable Clothing SCAP membership Textiles Market Situation
Action Plan 2020 increases to cover 50% Report published,
Commitment launches of the retail market examining the market
for recovered materials
2015
2012 2014
First SCAP conference
is held
Valuing Our Clothes, the WRAP receives a ‘Global The Love Your Clothes WRAP produced the
first evidence base on the Leadership Award in Campaign launches, Textiles Procurement
environmental impact of Sustainable Apparel’ aiming to change Guide
clothing, is published for its initiation of SCAP consumer behaviour
2016
towards clothing
2013
21 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | The SCAP agreementKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
The SCAP agreement
The Sustainable Clothing SCAP is helping the UK contribute towards
Action Plan is a collaborative Against a 2012 baseline, the following targets were achieving the United Nations’ Sustainable
agreement working to reduce agreed by SCAP for 2020 Development Goals (SDGs), summarised
in Figure 9. These global goals are a call to
the use of resources in the
15 15 15
action to end poverty, protect the planet,
clothing industry. It has over and ensure that all people enjoy peace
75 signatories and supporters and prosperity.
representing more than 58%
% % %
In particular, SCAP contributes to:
of UK retail sales by volume. yy goal 6: clean water and sanitation;
Signatories also include yy goal 12: responsible consumption
charities and textile collectors Carbon Water Waste to and production;
and recyclers. footprint footprint landfill yy goal 13: climate action; and
yy goal 17: revitalize the global
reduction reduction reduction partnership for sustainable
development.
3.5 %
reduction in waste arising over
the whole product life cycle
22 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | The SCAP agreementKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Goal 6: Clean water and sanitation contributes to climate change, is caused
by the energy used in its production Figure 9: The UN Sustainable Development Goals
Water scarcity and depletion, largely
and consumption.
from the amounts used in crop irrigation,
affects the availability of clean water. yy SCAP identifies methods of making
It is also affected by pollution from the clothes that produce less carbon and
preparation of fibres and dyeing fabrics use less energy. It helps businesses
and garments. Freshwater pollution from and customers switch to more energy
agriculture and industry is a significant efficient methods for producing and
problem for parts of the world where caring for clothes.
water quality is already affected by
increasing seasonal variability, bad Goal 17: Revitalize the global
weather and water shortages. partnership for sustainable
development
yy SCAP helps companies to reduce
their demand for water by changing A successful sustainable development
their choice of fibre and introducing agenda requires partnerships between
different production methods. governments, the private sector and civil
society. These inclusive partnerships built
Goal 12: Responsible consumption upon principles and values, a shared
and production vision, and shared goals that place
people and the planet at the centre,
We need to change the way we
are needed at the global, regional,
consume goods and resources in order
national and local level.
to reduce our ecological footprint and
achieve economic growth. Responsible yy SCAP brings together organisations
consumption and production are both across the supply chain to reduce
essential in achieving the improvements the way resources are used. SCAP helps contribute to
that SCAP will bring about. It works collaboratively with industry, achieving UN Sustainable
government and the third sector to
yy SCAP provides consumers with advice
re-invent how clothing is designed, Development Goals.
and tips on buying goods which are
produced more sustainably and re-think how we value clothing, and In particular clean
to re-define what is possible through water and sanitation,
which will last longer.
re-use and recycling
responsible consumption
Goal 13: Climate action
SCAP helps contribute to achieving and production, inclusive
Climate change is causing long-lasting UN Sustainable Development Goals.
changes to our environment which In particular clean water and sanitation,
partnerships, and
threatens irreversible consequences. responsible consumption and production, climate action
The carbon footprint of clothing, which inclusive partnerships, and climate action.
23 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | The SCAP agreementSECTION E How do we measure up? SCAP achievements 2012 – 2015 24 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | How do we measure up? SCAP achievements 2012 – 2015
KEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (D) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
How do we measure up?
SCAP achievements 2012 – 2015
SCAP signatories report on The latest reporting shows that during
10.6% 13.5% 14%
the carbon, water and waste 2012-15 the SCAP 2020 Commitment
has achieved, per tonne of clothing:
footprints of their clothing
every year as part of their yy 10.6% reduction in carbon against
% % %
commitment to the agreement.
a target of 15%;
reduction
yy 13.5% reduction in water against reduction reduction
The SCAP footprint calculator is a target of 15%; and in waste
the tool that helps retailers and in carbon in water
brands calculate the carbon,
yy 0.8% reduction in waste arising over
the whole product life cycle against
to landfill
water and waste footprint a target of 3.5%.
for their whole portfolio of The amount of clothing in household
garments. It is also used by residual waste has also decreased
0.8
recyclers and collectors to substantially:
measure the impacts of their yy 14% reduction in household residual reduction in waste arising over
activities. waste against a target of 15%
This is the reduction of clothing in all % the whole product life cycle
household residual waste (waste that
The amount of goes to landfill and energy from waste).
In 2012, there was 350,000 tonnes of
clothing in household clothing in household residual waste.
What our signatories say ...
residual waste has This has now reduced to 300,000 tonnes.24
“SCAP has been crucial to our sustainability
reduced by 50,000 There has been progress on all four
targets, with the water target and the strategy because it has enabled us to
tonnes since 2012 clothing in household residual waste close communicate more effectively with our
to being achieved.
leadership team and develop fixed targets within our business.”
The results show that SCAP signatories’
footprints have reduced both overall and Tara Luckman, Fabric and Sustainability Manager, ASOS
per tonne of clothing.
25 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | How do we measure up? SCAP achievements 2012 – 2015KEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (D) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Table 5: Footprints for carbon, water and waste from SCAP reporting brands and
retailers. 2015 results against a 2012 baseline.
% change/
2012/tonne 2016/tonne
tonne
Carbon (tonnes CO2e) 24.9 22.2 -10.6%
Water (m3) 7,280 6,300 -13.5%
Waste (tonnes) 1.6 1.6 -0.8%
Table 6: Footprints for carbon, water and waste from UK clothing consumption
comparing 2012 and 2016
% change/
2012/tonne 2016/tonne
tonne
Carbon (tonnes CO2e) 25.3 23.2 -8.3%
Water (m3) 7,570 7,060 -6.7%
Waste (tonnes) 1.7 1.7 -0.0%
The value of being a SCAP signatory is One reason for the difference is that the
demonstrated in the reductions in carbon, fibre profile for SCAP retailers is different; SCAP signatories’ footprints have reduced both
water and waste footprints achieved, they report a higher proportion of cotton
over and above those seen for the UK overall and they are also reporting using overall and per tonne of clothing
as a whole. a higher quantity of sustainable cotton.
In fact, 20% of cotton reported by
The carbon reduction from reduced
SCAP signatories for 2015 was from
washing temperatures and tumble drying
sustainable sources which have a
are included in the SCAP results (Table 5)
lower water footprint.
and for the UK as a whole (Table 6). These
changes are discussed further in Section G.
The water reduction is much stronger for
the SCAP retailers.
26 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | How do we measure up? SCAP achievements 2012 – 2015SECTION F Sustainable fibre choices: key to reducing environmental impact 27 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Sustainable fibre choices: key to reducing environmental impact
KEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Sustainable fibre choices:
key to reducing environmental impact
Significant actions have been While some retailers have shifted to the global market polyester “is now used in
taken by SCAP signatories use of synthetic fibres, retailers in the UK 60% of our garments” and that the total More sustainable
continue to use more cotton than other quantity has more than doubled since
since 2012 to introduce more fibres and for many, cotton garments 200026. fibres ... an achievable
sustainable fibres to their make up more than half of garments sold. and measurable action
As use of polyester grows, there is an
clothing ranges. This is an
achievable and measurable
Sustainable cotton has been a particular opportunity to grow use of recycled which can make a real
focus with the introduction of cotton polyester to help minimise carbon
action which can make a certified by the Better Cotton Initiative emissions. The greatest potential is difference
real difference to the overall (BCI), Organic Cotton, and Cotton Made for closed loop recycling, by ensuring
environmental impact of in Africa. Several SCAP signatories have material is designed and captured for
set ambitious targets for sustainable fibre-to-fibre recycling.
our clothing. cotton including:
yy Marks and Spencer is committed to
100% sustainable cotton by 2019;
yy Tesco is committed to 100%
sustainable cotton by 2020; and What our signatories say ...
yy Sainsbury’s is committed to 100%
sustainable cotton by 2020. “SCAP’s analysis of our fibre mix and
The potential of switching to sustainable supply chain impacts gives us the clarity
cotton offers opportunities particularly to set specific fibre substitution targets,
in improving the water footprint of UK enabling us to gain senior management
clothing, but also with reducing carbon
emissions.25 buy-in for a broader sustainability strategy that targets
There is a long-term trend globally
key suppliers and reduces our environmental impact.”
towards using polyester. In 2016 Tara Luckman, Fabric and Sustainability Manager, ASOS
Greenpeace reported that in the
28 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Sustainable fibre choices: key to reducing environmental impactKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
In Figure 10, we show the benefits European Clothing Action Plan (ECAP).
Figure 10: The introduction of sustainable fibres and potential reduction in of switching to 20%, 50% and 100% These will eventually improve the amount
total footprint of clothing reported to SCAP sustainable cotton. The savings achieved of recycled fibres that can be used in
through introducing more sustainable garment production.
cotton are all achieved during fibre Carbon and water savings for specific
Reduction in footprints from adoption of sustainable cotton production; other life cycle stages are fibres are possible, but when applied
20% 50% 100% not affected. to all fibres reported to SCAP, the
0 Switching to more sustainable cotton potential savings were not significant.
offers the potential to meet the SCAP Carbon savings for both spin-dyeing
water footprint target, although to deliver and cold pad batch are shown in
this on its own, more than 50% of cotton Table 7 based on dyeing 10%, 20%
in garments produced for the UK would or 50% of eligible material.
-10%
have to be made this way.
New Actions for the Supply Chain
Switching to sustainable fibres is Switching to more
important, but will not be enough on
-20%
its own to achieve all the SCAP targets sustainable cotton
Carbon Footprint
Water Footprint
(i.e. carbon and waste). offers the potential to
Waste Footprint (unaffected)
In 2016, more detailed information meet the SCAP water
about a number of other actions were
-30% reviewed, with a focus on beneficial footprint target
changes that can be made to fibres during
manufacture. Colouration technologies
What our signatories say ...
which offer environmental savings by
using fewer resources and causing less
pollution, offer great potential.27, 28
Spin-dyeing of synthetics and cold pad
“We’ll source 100% of cotton from batch (CPB) – a method of continuous
sustainable sources by 2019 and by dyeing of woven and knitted cellulosic
fabrics – are new improvement actions for
2025 will aim to have increased the SCAP, with environmental benefits that
proportion of Fairtrade, organic and can be quantified and reported.
recycled sources to 25%” The introduction of new technology
is also making progress, for example
Phil Townsend, Raw Materials Specialist, Marks and Spencer through trials for fibre-to-fibre recycling,
through the EU LIFE funded project, the
29 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Sustainable fibre choices: key to reducing environmental impactKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Table 7: Introduction of new colouration technologies and potential reduction in
total footprint of clothing reported to SCAP
% of clothing sales 10% 20% 50%
Carbon (t CO2e) -1% -2% -5%
Water (m3) 0% 1% -1%
Waste (tonnes) 0% 0% 0%
The combination of spin-dyeing adopted
for polyester and cold pad batch for Dyeing technologies
dyeing cotton would contribute to the
SCAP target (shown in Figure 8) for which offer
carbon, but is not enough on its own to environmental
achieve the target. Other improvements
are still needed. savings by using fewer
The combination of spin-dyeing and cold resources and causing
pad batch could contribute to the SCAP less pollution offer
target for carbon and water as shown
in Table 7. Other improvements are still great potential
needed however. Spin-dyeing is suitable
for use with synthetic fibres and viscose
but not for cotton, wool, and silk, for
example; while cold pad batch can only be
used for fibres with a cellulosic structure
such as cotton and flax.
30 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Sustainable fibre choices: key to reducing environmental impactSECTION G Valuing our customers: behavioural research and campaigns 31 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing our customers: behavioural research and campaigns
KEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Valuing our customers:
behavioural research and campaigns
This section provides insight Love Your Clothes
into action that customers As part of its commitment to manage and Customers have a big
are already taking to improve deliver the SCAP agreement effectively, role to play in reducing
the environmental impact of WRAP, in conjunction with SCAP
signatories, developed the consumer the carbon, water and
their clothing, and highlights
opportunities where they could
campaign Love Your Clothes which waste footprints of
encourages sustainable behaviours
be supported and encouraged towards clothing. Love Your Clothes builds clothing. Consumer
to do more. upon previous WRAP experience to share education around
messages that focus on the good feeling
Helping customers to care for and that making sustainable choices can bring. the optimum ways of
keep their clothes for longer, as well as
Love Your Clothes encourages actions buying, caring for, and
exchanging them for re-use when no
longer required, is essential if the active
around the better purchase, care, repair, disposing of clothes is
and disposal of clothing. It also offers
life of clothing is to be extended and the
tips and advice on up-cycling and key to supporting this
environmental benefits realised.
maintaining your clothes. The ultimate
aim is to reduce the environmental
impact of clothing across the UK and
influence a more circular approach to
clothing globally.
Research for the campaign has also
highlighted the need for effective
messages for people on buying clothes
that last and guidance on the best way
to care for and repair clothing.
32 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing our customers: behavioural research and campaignsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Purchasing
case study
WRAP’s consumer research, which
Bristol Textile Recyclers supports SCAP and the Love Your Clothes
campaign, looked at what people do
across the lifetime of clothing; from
Bristol Textile Recyclers (BTR) works to divert 20 tonnes of textiles from landfill on
purchase to laundering, care and
a daily basis. It re-uses unwanted textiles from the local community - largely charity
disposal,29 see Figure 11.
shops - sorts them, and then re-uses and recycles them both within the UK and
abroad. BTR also works with UK textile dealers who buy pre-loved high street and Most people still prefer to aquire clothes
vintage clothing from them on a weekly basis. There is often a surplus of this face-to-face, either in a shop or from a
clothing and much of it ends up being exported. In 2015, BTR ran a campaign friend and:
with WRAP’s Love Your Clothes to raise awareness of their services and to maximise yy 84% have acquired clothes face-to-face
on the amount of clothing they could sell in the UK. in the past year;
The idea was simple: open up the warehouse to fashion bloggers, up-cyclers, yy 65% have bought clothes online or
students and journalists, and challenge them to create outfits from the donated from a catalogue;
clothing. The event was a great success and BTR saw an opportunity to develop yy 53%, have done both; and
‘kilo sales’ where the public could access quirky, vintage and retro clothes, shoes
yy 5% have bought nothing.
and accessories at wholesale prices.
The kilo sales attracted up to 200 people every month and BTR is keen to develop Individual shops in a town centre are the
the event further by offering on-site alterations and adaptations to the clothing. most popular shopping destination when
average visits are calculated, although
shopping trips do not always lead to
purchases. Although smaller in scale,
there are still measurable numbers of
people who are part of an increasing
Aimee Campanella, Stock Acquisition Manager at BTR said ... trend to buy or acquire second hand
clothes via a number of routes.
“The Fashion Salvage event we did with Love Your Clothes really proved to
us that the idea was viable. It works for us on two levels. First it’s all about
transparency, inviting the public into our warehouse factory so that they can
find out what happens to their unwanted clothes. Secondly, the customers get a
great deal on vintage clothes and we get the best value from our stock.”
33 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing our customers: behavioural research and campaignsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Figure 11 : Q: How often, if at all, have you acquired clothes from each of the following?
Department stores 9% 17% 22% 19% 17% 14%
Individual shops in
a town centre 5% 18% 26% 24% 16% 6%
Individual shops at
‘out-of-town’ shopping centre 8% 14% 17% 28% 18% 12%
Supermarkets 9% 19% 21% 22% 12% 12%
(used items)
Charity / vintage shops 7% 9% 9% 16% 17% 38%
(used items)
From family/a friend/acquaintance 6% 18% 17% 51%
(used items)
From a car boot / jumble sale 9% 17% 64%
Every week Every two to About once About once every About once every Less Often I have not bought I never buy
three weeks a month two to three months four to six months clothes here in the clothes here
past 12 months
Base: SCAP Sustainable Textiles Consumer Tracker Survey, 2016 Those who have bought face to face in last year (1,729).
34 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing our customers: behavioural research and campaignsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Washing and care The SCAP footprint calculator was updated
in 2016 to include the lower washing
Most UK households own an iron (90%), Figure 12: The effect of changing consumer habits in turn, and then combined,
temperatures and less ironing and tumble
a washing machine (89%) and some form on the total carbon footprint of all clothing (CO2e) consumed in the UK in 2016
drying. These simple changes reduce the
of tumble dryer (59% for tumble dryers
millions carbon footprint in total by 700,000 tonnes
and washer dryers combined). The most
23 23.5 24 24.5 25 25.5 26 26.5 27 27.5 CO2e (3%) and suggest that consumers are
frequent washers do four or more loads
able and willing to change clothing care
per-week, per-person in the household.
habits. Continuing to provide information
Clothes washing and care accounts for Original to consumers of the benefits of washing at
a third of the total carbon footprint of washing lower temperatures and tumble drying less
clothing, although the carbon footprint behaviour provides an opportunity to further reduce
from the use phase of clothing is the carbon footprint.
decreasing. Washing and care has less
Ironing has less impact on the carbon
impact on the overall water footprint which
footprint than changing washing
occurs largely during fabric production. Ironing temperatures and tumble drying frequency
Compared to the quantity used in fibre frequency because it uses less energy.
production, the quantity of polluted water reduced
arising from washing clothes is very little.
The consumer research has found that:30
yy tumble drying has reduced from 32%
of total washes to 26%; Washing
temperature
yy ironing frequency has reduced from
reduced
43% to 38%; and
yy washing temperatures have decreased
as people are more likely to wash at
30˚C than they were. Drying
frequency Reducing washing temperatures,
Continuing to provide reduced tumble drying and ironing has
information to consumers already reduced the carbon
footprint of clothing by
of the benefits of washing
at lower temperatures and All three 700,000 TONNES
tumble drying less provides phase
changes and could provide
an opportunity to further further reductions.
reduce the carbon footprint
35 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing our customers: behavioural research and campaignsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
case study
P&G Ariel
Between May and July The campaign included: Results
2016, the Know Your yy Media coverage secured in The Mirror, mirror.co.uk,
yy Conducting a piece of consumer research
Care Labels campaign The Observer, Guardian online, and ITV’s Loose Women.
on 2,000 people in the UK. The results were
was carried out by This resulted in a potential reach of 9.6 million.
used to create a press release which was
the P&G brand Ariel, sent to national print, broadcast and yy An increase of 8,000 visitors to the Love Your Clothes website.
in collaboration with online media. yy 380 new Twitter followers during campaign period, 202
Love Your Clothes.
The aim was to yy A ‘Know Your Care Labels’ quiz and mentions, 697 retweets.
highlight the amount dedicated webpage was created for the yy 160 new fans on Facebook, 4,660 Likes, 29 people talking
of clothing that is Love Your Clothes website. The quiz was about the campaign.
no longer in use, designed to test public knowledge of care
due to the lack of consumer knowledge about labels.
care symbols on clothing labels. In order to yy Downloadable posters and guides listing all
effectively communicate the issue to consumers of the care symbols that appear Scott Popham, Senior Communications Manager,
and provide an engaging method for changing on UK clothing. Fabric & Home Care - Northern Europe,
behaviour, Love Your Clothes built a PR yy Tracking of engagement with the campaign Procter & Gamble said ...
campaign to increase public awareness about by encouraging participation in the quiz, and
the importance of following care labels. sharing of scores on Twitter and Facebook
- to enter a prize draw to win a Samsung “The Know Your Care Labels campaign with
washing machine. The competition was Love Your Clothes was a fantastic opportunity
heavily promoted with spend on social
advertising, and was featured in the Primary to highlight the importance of caring for clothes
Times magazine and on their website. during the laundry process in a really engaging
way. We were delighted to support a project to
educate consumers and drive habit change.
This step towards helping people to keep their
clothes in the best condition for as long as possible,
is a small step on the journey to help reduce the
amount of clothing to landfills.”
36 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing our customers: behavioural research and campaignsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING
CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES
Repairs and alterations Figure 13 shows results from WRAP
research which asked people about their 0% 50% 100%
Repairing garments that are worn out,
confidence in undertaking repairs.
have developed faults, or which no longer
fit, is an opportunity to extend the life of There are opportunities for businesses Sew a button on 73%
clothes. Repair is carried out at home, to provide repair services if consumers
or by a clothing repair and alterations are not able to carry out their own repairs.
specialist (sometimes as part of the In most cases this means doing the Stain removal 60%
service available from a dry cleaning repairs or alterations for the customer.
company). However, repair cafes31, repair surgeries,
workshops, and online sewing tutorials32 Take a hem up or down 38%
Some simple activities that may be
(including Love Your Clothes) are gaining
considered repair are easily carried
popularity. These are all places where
out by people themselves. Sewing on a
people can get some help and learn Darn or patch a hole 35%
button, for example, or removing a stain
new skills.
are things that most people feel confident
doing. Several other activities such as Research found that the UK clothing
taking up a hem and darning or patching repair market33 has an annual turnover Dye an item 26%
a hole, are carried out by only about a between £116 million and £312 million.
third of people. There are also a number These business opportunities are
of activities are that are beyond the ability discussed in more detail in Section H Replace a zip 17%
of most people such as replacing a zip, ‘More tailored solutions: meeting
remaking a garment (up-cycling), SCAP targets by 2020’.
Redesign an item 14%
replacing a pocket, or adjusting the
(e.g. make shorts from jeans)
size of a garment for a better fit.
Replace a pocket 14%
Take in or out
Patagonia example (change the size / fit)
12%
Patagonia believes in offering its customers the chance to have their items None of them 16%
repaired to extend product life. In 2016, its repair department mended over
45,000 garments. Taking this one step further, Patagonia is also empowering the
consumer to repair clothing themselves by launching a new repair programme in
collaboration with iFixit. Customers can download free easy-to-follow online repair Figure 13: Shows the % of people that felt confident to perform repairs and alterations’
guides for Patagonia clothing and are also offered an Expedition Sewing Kit for on
the spot emergency repairs. Base: Graph and box weighted to UK proportions - All (2,058) WRAP Textiles Tracker Survey 2016 wave 2
37 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing our customers: behavioural research and campaignsKEY SETTING TAKING IMPACTS AND THE SCAP SCAP SUSTAINABLE VALUING OUR MEETING CONTENTS FINDINGS THE SCENE (A) STOCK (B) FOOTPRINTS (C) AGREEMENT (D) ACHIEVEMENTS (E) FIBRE CHOICES (F) CUSTOMERS (G) SCAP TARGETS (H) CONCLUSIONS ENDNOTES Clothing re-use and disposal Consumer behaviour can make a Figure 14: Re-use can increase the lifetime of clothing so that garments can have difference when clothing life is extended multiple lives before being recycled.34 through repair and re-use. Re-using clothes by selling them via online trading sites, donating them to charity shops, or passing them on to friends all have the environmental benefit of extending the life of the garments. A second hand sale returns some value to the original owner or provides a charity An increase of 10% retailer with revenue, which is better than in second hand sales storing it and no longer using it. could save: Provided that the purchase of a second hand garment displaces that of a new 3% 4% 1% item, then significant environmental CARBON WATER WASTE savings are made from avoiding production, processing, and disposal. PER TONNE OF CLOTHING Value is also retained in the economy through this circular way of doing business. These savings are the reason why extending product lifetimes is the first preference when it comes to actions to improve clothing’s sustainability. Figure 11 (p34) sets out how frequently, and from where, most clothing is acquired. Providing re-use or resale opportunities at the places where most new sales take place can make it easy for customers to extend the life of their own unwanted garments. 38 WRAP | Valuing Our Clothes | Valuing our customers: behavioural research and campaigns
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