UNDERSTADING THE HYPEBESAST ECONOMY - sersc
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International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology Vol. 29, No.02, (2020), pp. 1496-1501 UNDERSTADING THE HYPEBESAST ECONOMY Peehu Gulati Pandit Deendayal Petroleum University Abstract : this paper discusses the HYPEBEAST culture and its impact of the economy. This study uses articles from popular online streetwear magazines and other scholarly articles and studies to explain the phenomenon. The purpose of this study is to present available data in helpful way for economists. This study will explain the concept of HYPEBEAST culture, hype, drops, and other relating terms. We will also focus on the resale market for the goods in this market. The consumer base for these goods shall also be looked upon. We will also see the current trends in this market. The future of this market shall also be included in the paper. Index Terms :drops, hype, hypebeast culture, personal luxury goods, resale market I. INTRODUCTION HYPEBEAST was mostly used as a derogatory term for someone who follows fashion trends, in particular streetwear, for the purpose of making a social statement. This culture revolves around boasting of wealth, and exclusivity. The fact that the products were limited gave the person sporting them a different sense of confidence, and pride.The usage of the term HYPEBEAST changed completely after sneakerhead (someone extremely interested in collecting sneakers and gathering information about them), Kevin Ma started his website/blog with the name HYPEBEAST [1].Today HYPEBEAST is a website used by the fashion forward Millennials (people born during the years 1980-1994), and GEN Z (people born during the years 1995-2015) [2], to get information about the latest drops. HYPEBEAST culture generally revolves around luxury streetwear clothing, accessories, and sneakers. Sneakers were the beginning point of this trend. Sneakers got mainly popular when Michael Jordan sported sneakers which didn’t confine to the regulations since they were only allowed to wear white sneakers at that point of time. This move gained a lot of attention for the sheer impact of this change. The sneakers sported by Jordan were from Nike. Today they have their Air Jordan product line. The recent hype regarding this culture revolves around the streetwear. Which includes everything from jackets, t-shirts, jumpers to sneakers, backpacks, and other accessories. A very recent launch by Supreme even included an actual brick. Though it is very controversial, it shows the extent to which the consumers are ready to spend money for the exclusivity. The following topics include the functioning of this market, its consumer base, and the impact it has on the economy. II. UNDERSTANDING TERMS A. Veblen Goods Conspicuous consumption was a concept introduced by economist and sociologist Thorstein Veblen in his 1899 book The Theory of the Leisure Class.It is a term used to describe the sumptuous spending on products and services acquired mainly for purposes of displaying income or wealth. Such display serves as a means in the minds of a prominent client to achieve or retain social status.This becomes the basis of understanding the psychology of the HYPEBEASTs, who are involved in this market. B. Drop The availability of a product or service to the general public.In this scenario, releasing of pieces of a clothing collection in small segments is called a drop. It was introduced to this industry when the ISSN: 2005-4238 IJAS 1496 Copyright ⓒ 2019 SERSC
International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology Vol. 29, No.02, (2020), pp. 1496-1501 founder of Supreme, James Jebbia, opened a branch of the brand in Japan and noticed pattern used by Japanese retail store to release their clothing and he quickly adapted to it. [3] C. Influencer A person with the capacity of encouraging or recommending products on social media to impact prospective purchasers of a product or service. These are the major advertising source for the brands, since a lot of the Millennial and GEN Z consumers follow the trends and fads promoted by them. The better the influencer the better is the reach towards the target market. D. Hype A smart marketing strategy that advertises a product as the thing that everyone needs to have, to the extent that individuals start to feel they need to eat it. Hype works with the psychology of relating to exclusivity and its importance in today’s world. It works with the idea that the younger consumer base wants to stand out in the crowd in any way they can. III. HOW THE HYPEBEAST MARKET WORKS This market mostly works on the Hype created through marketing. This culture is very much influenced by Influencers with large follower base on social media such as Instagram, and Twitter these including models of the likes of Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, rappers like Kanye West, and Basketball players like Michael Jordan. Once the fashion forward generation sees these influencers wearing any of the brands, the hype gets created. This hype is generally created by making these influencers promote products which haven’t been launched yet. This makes the consumers look for the products and hence starting a murmur in the market. After the Hype is created, these brands announce the dates of their drops. Once the date of the drop is announced, these consumers prepare themselves to get their hands on some of the products. There have been times when people have lined up outside the Supreme store from 4AM for the drop (which generally starts from 11AM). A similar instance was recently seen in Uniqlo in China, for a drop (Uniqlo x Kaws) where the shoppers rushed into the store, while the shutters were being lifted. They created a big frenzy during their pursuits of getting hands on the new collection which now sells for almost 8 times its actual sales price. [4] The reason these brands are so popular in today’s world is because of the fact that the quantity of the products is very limited, giving the consumers the sense of standing out in the crowd. For example, if Supreme is releasing 20 different designs, they will only keep around 7 pieces for each style. The fact that not everyone can get these, makes them very exclusive and creates a high demand. IV. CONSEQUENCES OF THIS HIGH DEMAND Due to this high demand and limited products there is a huge resale market and an even bigger market of duplicates. Consumers who are unable to get the new drops, they look for places online to buy the same. The resale market is used by the brands to keep a check on their reputation. The resale market works entirely on the equation of demand and supply. The higher the resale value as compared to the retail price, the better it is for the brand image. [5] Websites like Stockx.com get a very high flow of buyers and sellers for sneakers. This website in particular has a stock market type of data presentation. They show if some sneakers are going under their actual price or if some are going over their actual prices. Apps like ClubFactory are very popular for their cheap duplicates. In a country like India, these duplicates could be found on any street side shopping area. Not only do many sellers copy the designs they also put tags and labels on the clothes for the particular brand. A supreme t-shirt which may be sold for $60 could be found here for as low as $1.5 to $2. Whereas resale helps the brands to keep a check on their image, the biggest troubles faced by these brands are to fight off the duplicates. ISSN: 2005-4238 IJAS 1497 Copyright ⓒ 2019 SERSC
International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology Vol. 29, No.02, (2020), pp. 1496-1501 V. CONSUMER BASE According to HYPEBEAST’s Streetwear Impact Report [3], which included 40,960 responses, they were able to conclude some of the following information. • 80.7% of the respondents were males, while 18.4% were females, and 0.9% identified as non-binary. • 59% of the respondents were Asians (i.e. 30.17% Koreans, 10.72% Chinese, 5.02% Japanese, and others). Asians in turn make the biggest portion of the streetwear market, followed by Europeans. • Consumers reported spending 5 times more per month on streetwear as compared to non-streetwear. • 70% of respondents belonged to an income bracket of ≤ $40,000. • 62% of respondents said they were more likely to buy sneakers, ahead of tops and accessories. • 73% of the respondents were under the age of 25. According to the Asian respondents they choose streetwear as a Political Statement, while Western respondents said that Community was a bigger reason for them. • 70% consumer respondents like streetwear because it’s cool, • Whereas 57% consider comfortable clothes to be a key factor. • 46% place importance on exclusivity • 27% say status symbol is the most important factor • 24% respondents stated community (community refers to an interacting population of like-minded individuals, affecting the identity of the given members and also their cohesiveness. In gaining similar social perceptions gives them a sense of solidarity that may or may not lead in the exclusion of other individuals that do not share one or more of their like-mindedness). According to the respondents Supreme, Nike, Off-White, Adidas, BAPE, Stussy, Palace, Carhartt WIP, Vetements, and Balenciaga represent Streetwear to them. Based on the Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study Fall-Winter 2018 report by Bain & Company [6] , the following was observed. • Europe was the leading sales region, followed by America, Asia, and then the rest of the world. • Second hand market for luxury goods (including cars, hospitality, Wines and Spirits, personal luxury goods etc.), rose to €22 billion in 2018. One of the reasons for this growth was the systematic online reselling platforms. • Second hand market has grown by 9% since 2015. • Online sales were most prominent in Americas, but a faster growth was seen in Asia. • Shoes and jewelry show the maximum growth of 7% each. • Growth of Apparel suffered due to slow performance in the Menswear segment. • Millennials and GEN Z were 47% of the consumers and made up around 33% of the purchasers. VI. INDIAN MARKET SCENARIO The exclusive sneaker drops started in India with YEEZY in August, 2015. This was the start and now there are two types of consumer base already created. According to an interview of Jonathan Rego, editor and founder of Nation of Sport, conducted by the website Hypebeast [9], Indian market has two types of sneakerheads, one which actually care about the sport and the others who consider it a fashion fad. They are also speculating that India might become a global trendsetter when it comes to sneakers, due to the increasing disposable income and exposure to fashion fads through social media. Resale websites, like vegnonveg.com are already up and running. There are people starting pages on social media such as karankhatriofficial, a page which is currently being followed by 70,000+ people. ISSN: 2005-4238 IJAS 1498 Copyright ⓒ 2019 SERSC
International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology Vol. 29, No.02, (2020), pp. 1496-1501 Most of the GEN Z and Millennials are updated with the fashion trends around the globe due to the intervention of social media. More and more students are adopting clothing choices and haircuts from celebrities and influencers, as seen on Instagram. People roam around shops with the images of influencers on their phones so they can find the exact piece of clothing. While the general population only shopped thrice a year previously, but now Indians have shifted to shopping at least 12 times a year on average. With a population as big as India’s, 1.37 billion, even small increases in shopping on in individual level results in an overall increased spending throughout the country. The Indian retail industry accounts for over 10% of the country’s GDP and about 8% of employment opportunities [7]. The sportswear market in India has grown from ₹24,000 INR in 2014 to ₹37,000 INR in 2016. Implying that the growth has been more than 50% in the duration of two years Luxury market of India was expected to grow to US$ 30 billion by the end of 2018 from US$ 23.8 billion 2017 due to the involvement of growing exposure of international brands amongst Indian youth and higher purchasing power of the upper class [8]. India's position in worldwide retail rankings has been noteworthy; the nation has strong market potential, low financial risk, and mild political risk. India is anticipated to become the third largest consumer economy in the world, achieving a consumption of US$ 400 billion by 2025. Whereas talking about the rising middle class population, factors like young demographic composition, increasing personal disposable income, more preference towards affordable luxury, are creating brand consciousness among the population by developing preferences for specific brands. The Indian market is also slowly climbing the Ease of doing business index as well, due to the interventions of the government with the tax reforms (such as introduction to Goods and Services Tax). India has reached 77.00 as of 2019[9] . The high taxes (of 33%) on luxury goods and lack of needed infrastructure have been creating troubles for popular retail brands. The lack of infrastructure results in popular brands looking for shops in malls to rent. The rents are generally very high, making it a difficult choice. Adidas has been organizing special get-together type of events ever since it brought the Air Max Day in 2015, it even organizes YEEZY-drop after parties. Reebok started doing a similar thing from 2018. These parties have always catered to only a small, selective group of people since the consumer base has been comparatively small. An overall upward trend is seen in the growth of sneaker culture, resulting in a growth in high end luxury brands as well, such as Balenciaga, and Louis Vuitton. The fakes market has always been developing in India. People below the poverty line who can’t invest in the actual brand, have always been attracted to the fakes. According to Jerry Sebastian, former Marketing Manager of Adidas Originals India, sneaker culture in India currently is based on hype, rather than knowledge [7] VII. OBSERVATIONS REGARDING INDIAN MARKET Indian market is being called very small and tight knit and it is speculated to remain the same for the next 5 to 6 years [7]. According to my observations, the lack of flagship stores of these luxury personal goods brands, is seriously hindering with the growth of Hypebeast Market in India. The generation of tax through these stores can help the Indian Economy. These Brands should also set up flagship stores in places like Delhi, Haryana (specifically Gurgaon), and Bangalore since consumers from these cities also have a consumer base of the Millennials and GEN Z with large disposable income. India’s population by 2022 will be made up of 71% wealthy people who will be looking for everything luxury possible. This will be the big opening for luxury goods in India [11]. VIII. DIRECT ECONOMIC IMPACT The global footwear market was valued at $215,709m in 2016 and is expected to be worth $278,860.7m by 2025 in terms of revenue [10]. ISSN: 2005-4238 IJAS 1499 Copyright ⓒ 2019 SERSC
International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology Vol. 29, No.02, (2020), pp. 1496-1501 Sneaker resale is booming. It's now estimated to be a $2 billion market, according to Cowen & Co estimates. It is expected to rise three times in size over the next several years, reaching more than $6 billion by 2025. This market is in a growth spurt due to the GEN Y and GEN Z consumer. This ‘Hype’ creation also costs the companies a lot since they have to pay rappers, models and other influencers to keep the hype up. IX. FUTURE PREDICTIONS These predictions are based on the Bain & Company report on Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study Fall-Winter 2018 [6] • There is an expected growth rate of 3%-5% per year till 2025. • By 2025 Chinese buyers will be 46% of the global market. • Millennials and GEN Z will make up apparently 55% of the market. • Millennials and GEN Z will contribute up to 130% towards the overall growth of the market of luxury goods, between 2018 and 2025. • The sales from online platforms will rise from the current 10% to 25% in 2025. X. CONCLUSION This culture being mainly prevalent in the Millennials and GEN Z, will result in a significant increase till at least 2025. These trends are spreading faster in the Asian countries now as compared to the rest of the world. Europe and America have already seen this growth. HYPEBEAST trends have mostly been visible in the music industry, rappers like Kanye West, Jay Z can be seen sporting clothes, sneakers, and accessories from these clothing. This culture is becoming more visible in Asia, especially South Korea and China. K-pop artists in South Korea have been seen wearing these styles. Celebrities have a huge impact on this market. The Economical impart has been positive but some social issues have also been on the rise. Yellow vest protest [12] was an example of this. These trends highlight the financial gap between citizens creating visible tensions. REFERENCES [1] Hypebeast, “About Us,” [online], available at https://hypebeast.com/about [2] Kanasa, “Boomers, Gen X, Gen Y, Gen Z Explained,” [online], available at https://www.kasasa.com/articles/generations/gen-x-gen-y-gen-z [3] Hypebeast, “Streetwear Impact Report,” [online], available at http://strategyand.hypebeast.com/streetwear-report [4] Zhuang Pinghui, 2019, “Chinese shoppers swarm Uniqlo stores for latest Kaws T-shirts and bags,” [online], available at https://www.scmp.com/news/china/society/article/3013080/chinese-shoppers-swarm-uniqlo-store s-latest-kaws-t-shirts-and [5] Hypebeast, “Streetwear Impact Report,” [online], available at http://strategyand.hypebeast.com/streetwear-report-retail-resale-drops [6] Claudia D’Arpizio, Federica Levato, Filippo Prete, Elisa Del Fabbro and Joëlle de Montgolfi er., “Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study Fall-Winter 2018,” [online], available at https://www.bain.com/contentassets/8df501b9f8d6442eba00040246c6b4f9/bain_digest__luxury_ goods_worldwide_market_study_fall_winter_2018.pdf [7] Allen Claudius, “Why India Could be the Next Big Sneaker Market,” [online], available at https://hypebeast.com/2019/8/india-sneakers-streetwear-community-nike-adidas-yeezy [8] Indian Brand Equity Foundation, “Retail Industry in India, 2019,” [online], available at, https://www.ibef.org/industry/retail-india.aspx [9] 2019 TRADING ECONOMICS, “Ease of doing business in India,” [online], available at, https://tradingeconomics.com/india/ease-of-doing-business ISSN: 2005-4238 IJAS 1500 Copyright ⓒ 2019 SERSC
International Journal of Advanced Science and Technology Vol. 29, No.02, (2020), pp. 1496-1501 [10] Transparency Market Research, “Footwear Market (Product - Athletic Footwear (Running and Cross Training/Tennis Shoe, Soccer/football Shoe, Golf Shoe, Hiking Shoe, Baseball Shoe) and Non-Athletic Footwear (Casual Footwear, Dress Evening Footwear, Military Boots, Lite Hiking Outdoor Sandal; End Use - Men’s Footwear, Women’s Footwear, and Kid’s Footwear; Material - Rubber and Plastic; Distribution Channel - Online Channel, Shoe Stores, Supermarkets and Hypermarkets, Independent Retail Stores, Textile Retailers, Departmental Stores) - Global Industry Analysis, Size, Share, Growth, Trends and Forecast 2017 – 2025,” [online], available at https://www.transparencymarketresearch.com/pressrelease/footwear-market.htm [11] Deepa Sai, “Future of Luxury Brands in India,” [online], available at, https://medium.com/quillink/future-of-luxury-brands-in-india-6e40e7741135 [12] Pamela N. Danziger, “4 Mega-Trends Ahead For The Luxury Market In 2019: Expect Turmoil And Slowing Sales,” [online], available at, https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2018/12/18/whats-ahead-for-the-luxury-market-in-201 9-expect-turmoil-and-slowing-sales/#4d5bbdeb6578 ISSN: 2005-4238 IJAS 1501 Copyright ⓒ 2019 SERSC
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