Traceability in the Leather Supply Chain - Learning Series: Webinar 2: Traceability Expectations of Sustainability Standards in the Leather Supply ...
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Learning Series: Traceability in the Leather Supply Chain Webinar 2: Traceability Expectations of Sustainability Standards in the Leather Supply Chain May 20th, 2021
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Disclaimer
The goal of the Responsible Leather Round Table is to be a
platform for stakeholders in the leather industry to engage with
each other, share information, and identify common challenges
and opportunities. To this end, we offer opportunities for diverse
stakeholders to share their knowledge and perspectives.
The views, thoughts, and opinions expressed in this webinar
belong solely to the speakers. As the leader of the RLRT, Textile
Exchange strives to maintain a neutral role.
5 webinars on Traceability in the Leather Supply Chain
EDT CET
Webinar 1: Understanding Traceability and the UNECE May 4th 10 - 11am 4 – 5pm
Guidelines
Webinar 2: Traceability Expectations of Sustainability May 20th 11am - 5 – 6pm
Standards in the Leather Supply Chain 12pm
Webinar 3: Traceability Solution Providers in the May 25th 10 - 11am 4 – 5pm
Leather Supply Chain
Webinar 4: Joint webinar with NWF and GRSB June 1st 10 -11am 4 – 5pm
Traceability at the farm level: focus on Brazil
Webinar 5: The Implementation of Traceability Solutions June 4th 10 - 11am 4 – 5pm
in Leather Supply Chains: Brand Experience
Speakers
NICOLE LAMBERT DEBORAH TAYLOR SABRINA FRONTINI
Textile Exchange Sustainable Leather ICEC
Foundation
CHRISTINA TRAUTMANN MIRJAM BÄNNINGER ANNIKA SAUERHÖFER
Leather Working Group TESTEX AG, Swiss Textile MADE In GREEN by
Testing Institute OEKO-TEX® Association
Traceability Webinar 2 Agenda: • Leather Working Group Protocol, Christina Trautmann, Program Manager at LWG • ICEC, Sabrina Frontini, Director of ICEC • OekoTex MADE IN GREEN, Annika Sauerhöfer, Product Manager MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® Association & Mirjam Bänninger, Group Product Manager, LEATHER STANDARD/ TESTEX AG • Sustainable Leather Foundation, Deborah Taylor, Managing Director at the Sustainable Leather Foundation • Q&A
Material Traceability
The Leather Working Group
Christina Trautmann Date
LWG Program Manager May 2021
About us The LWG and Traceability
Some facts about the LWG
• We were established in 2005 • We have 4 audit standards that have been
built to connect the supply chain and
• Our primary focus is on conducting increase transparency
environmental audits of leather
manufacturers globally, but this is o Leather Manufacturer Audit (flagship)
evolving o Trader Audit
• We are a collaborative, membership- o Commissioning Manufacturer Audit
led non-profit organization with over (new)
1,100 members and partners, o Sub-contractor Audit (new)
including:
• We have a global presence, with:
o Leather manufacturers & Traders
o Audited facilities in 44 countries
o Brands & Retailers world-wide
o Suppliers o Approximately 25% of global
o Associations finished leather production is LWG
o Subject experts audited
LWG Certification
Built through Collaboration
Cross collaboration between The ideas and needs of our P7 is a significant step forward to
brands, tanners, suppliers, and members drive our a more sustainable and secure
organisations developments leather supply chainLWG Certification
Securing the Leather Supply Chain through ESG Compliance
Environmental • Responsible management and use of resources
Management • Reduced emissions to the environment
• Traceability of raw material, with built-in risk management
Traceability
• Continuity of traceability downstream to end customers
• Compliance to AFIRM RSL and ZDHC MRSL
Chemical Management
• Reduced risk of Cr VI formation
• Safe & healthy environment for workers
Social Responsibility
• Recognition of 3rd party social audits and verifications
• Securing the full supply chain from raw material to finished
Governance
• Due diligence to ensure high performance and complianceLWG Certification 861
7
Covering all actors in supply chain 13
108
+ 166% growth in 612
The LWG audit is a powerful tool that connects the the last 5 years 55
supply chain, from raw to finished leather production,
and increases supply chain transparency 491
38
405
26
324 733
254 557
229
182 453
379
129 139 324
93 229
254
182
129 139
93
2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
Leather Manufacturers Traders Subcontractors Commissioning ManufacturersTraceability, Supply Chain Transparency &
the LWG
• Traceability and supply chain transparency is critical, and the number 1
priority for LWG brand members, and the number 4 priority for all LWG “Starting point is to map your
members supply chain end-to-end –
traceability is about
• It provides assurances that materials are responsibly sourced understanding this data”
• It is essential in:
• Managing risks in the supply chain
• Meeting science-based targets
• Making reliable sustainability claims “Transparency about
your business
• The LWG philosophy is to drive positive change incrementally within the practices”
leather value chain, by:
• Phasing out harmful practices “Traceability
• And promoting progressive improvements provides
certainty”
• The latest step forward in this direction is: “Knowing where
• the launch of P7, the newest version of the LWG Leather a product
Manufacturer Standard comes from”
• the formation of the Traceability Working Group in 2020Key Priorities for the LWG
A complex topic, with multiple areas of development
Supply chain transparency and
Raw material origins Due diligence
consumer messaging
• Understand what levels are possible • Proposed legislation in the UK and • Link the leather value chain from raw
per country Europe, will require additional due to finished leather through the LWG
diligence when sourcing from audit, to build a transparent supply
• Develop a system for traceability
countries where deforestation is a chain
where non-commercial farming and
slaughter is prevalent concern • Encourage brands to map their
• Legal sourcing of exotic materials supply-chains
• Encourage traceability past the
slaughterhouse, to the farm, where • Animal welfare • Develop robust, verified product-
possible level claims
Post- LWG
Birth Rearing Finishing Slaughter tanning T1 Brand/
Tanning
Farm Farm Farm -house and Factory Retailer
Finishing Member
Traders/ sub-contractors
The LWG is aiming to develop transparency within the leather value chainThe LWG Audit Standard How do we address traceability?
Overview of Changes in P7
Main Highlights
Chemical Management Effluent treatment Traceability Social Compliance
The CMM is now fully We've introduced stricter Developed significantly and Certification from a
integrated requirements integrated as a scored recognized 3rd party is a
section new requirementWe are addressing traceability in 3 ways in P7
1. Material procurement assessed to ensure upstream suppliers are
also certified and are manufacturing in a responsible way, and
there is a clear chain of custody
2. Incoming material traceability has been developed to include
new levels, to increase the ability of all actors to achieve the best
level of traceability possible in their region
New!
3. Outgoing traceability has been introduced to incentivize
downstream traceability to the final customerP7 Production data
Chain of custody
1. General facility details
2. Subcontracted operations
3. Social audit • Material procurement assessed to ensure LWG chain of custody
4. Operating permits • Gold medal requirement:
5. Production data
o 100% of materials to come from LWG certified sources (with a
6. Traceability (incoming)
conditional 5% allowance if trialing new suppliers)
7. Traceability (outgoing)
8. EMS
9. RSL, Compliance, CrVI • Additional levels remain:
10. Energy consumption
11. Water usage
12. Air & noise emissions Section Requirement Gold Silver Bronze Audited
13. Waste management
14. Effluent treatment
15. H&S, Emergency Plans % of material must be
Chain of
16. Chemical Management Custody
purchased from LWG 100% ≥75% ≥65% ≥25%
certified sources
17. Operations ManagementP7 Incoming Traceability
Overview
1. General facility details
2. Subcontracted operations
3. Social audit All leather manufacturers will need to have an established
traceability system as a qualifying requirement for this section
4. Operating permits
5. Production data
6. Traceability (incoming) Raw material traceability requirements increased to include:
7. Traceability (outgoing) • Slaughterhouse for commercial contexts
8. EMS • Regional level for non-commercial contexts
9. RSL, Compliance, CrVI
10. Energy consumption
Physical marking of material is preferred over documented
11. Water usage traceability
12. Air & noise emissions
13. Waste management
14. Effluent treatment Additional evidence is required for material sourced from areas at
15. H&S, Emergency Plans risk of deforestation
16. Chemical Management
17. Operations Management
100% of exotic materials should be sourced legallyIncoming Traceability
4 Levels of traceability in the LWG audit standard
• There are now 4 levels of traceability in the LWG audit standard, which is increased from 2 previously
• Regional traceability has been introduced for countries where farming and slaughter are informal and dispersed
• Traceability of a hide/skin to a group of slaughterhouses has been introduced for manufacturers further down the
supply chain, such as those processing splits, where traceability is challenging
Number Type Level Audit Requirement Detail
Physical hides/skins should be individually, physically Sourcing from commercial
1 traceability
to slaughterhouse
marked and traceable to the slaughterhouse slaughterhouses
Documented hides/skins are traceable through robust Sourcing from commercial
2 traceability
to slaughterhouse
documentation slaughterhouses
hides/skins should be individually, physically
Physical to group of mostly applicable to splits, split
3 traceability slaughterhouses
marked and traceable to a group of
marked to identify supplier
slaughterhouses
hides/skins should be obtained from a supplier
Documented Applicable to non-commercial
4 traceability
to a region whose trading premises has been geo-
material sourcing
referencedMaterial sourced from areas at risk of
deforestation
• Additional requirements for those sourcing from geographies where expansion of cattle
ranching is causing illegal conversion of natural landscapes
Robust evidence will
• Existing LWG guidance on sourcing from Brazil has been expanded, based on the advice need to be provided to
of the NWF and WWF prove compliance
• We have increased regions to include the 3 biomes at risk in South America: during an audit, for
example:
o Amazon Biome (Brazil)
o copy of evidence of
o Cerrado (Brazil) compliance from
o Gran Chaco (Paraguay) meatpacker’s in-house
monitoring system
• Leather manufacturers will need to demonstrate the level of supply chain
o copy of report from 3rd
governance of their suppliers and provide verifiable evidence that they are working to
party monitoring service
fully monitor their supply chain, in order to minimize the risk of sourcing from actors provider
involved in illegal deforestation
o copy of an IBAMA report
• Section score awarded based on % traceable material and level of evidence provided (relevant to Brazil)
• We also have created a new sourcing policy for all companies who source from these
regionsNew!
P7 Outgoing Traceability
Incentivizes the continuity of traceability
1. General facility details
2. Subcontracted operations
• Created to incentivise the continuity of traceability downstream in the supply
3. Social audit chain
4. Operating permits • Leather Manufacturers will need to track material through facility, including
5. Production data information on:
6. Traceability (incoming) o Material batches, including the recipes of chemicals used in production
7. Traceability (outgoing) o Raw material origin
8. EMS • There is also an incentive for the physical marking of splits to identify producing
9. RSL, Compliance, CrVI tannery
10. Energy consumption • Additional details:
11. Water usage
12. Air & noise emissions
13. Waste management Section Requirement Gold Silver Bronze Audited
14. Effluent treatment
15. H&S, Emergency Plans Outgoing
Tracking of
Comprehensive,
material through
16. Chemical Management Material
facility,
established System in place
traceability system
17. Operations Management downstreamWhat’s next?
We have ambitious plans for the future
Join in the discussion!Our philosophy and aims for the future
• For the first time, incoming material traceability is included as a scored section in
Increasing LWG audit the LWG audit
requirements • We plan to progressively increase the traceability requirements in the next
iteration of the LWG Audit Standard according to our roadmap
• This means that having limited traceability and exposure to deforestation will start
to negatively impact medal ratings
Realistic and achievable
goals • This phased approach will ensure that all actors are fully engaged and that our
goals are realistic and achievable
• The LWG’s vision for the future is for 100% deforestation and conversion free
Collaboration on our leather
sustainability journey • We collaborate with expert NGOs, stakeholders, and LWG members in our journey
to improve supply chain governance
Please reach out to us directly and join in the discussion!
info@leatherworkinggroup.comOur areas of development
Auditing & Data-driven Insights
• Driving increased traceability and supply chain transparency through the LWG audits, with
changes planned according to our roadmap
• Digitalisation of the audits and data-driven insights, to help brands to meet science-based
targets and make credible claims
Stronger communication and consumer-messaging
• Development of our current LWG claims framework, to include verification of product-
level claims and introduction of purchase certificates
• Voluntary Supplier Scorecard:
• To empower LWG Leather Manufacturers to communicate performance and
achievements in a clear, transparent, and consistent way
• Support development of consumer messaging, end-to-end environmental claims,
and story telling
Engagement and collaboration
• Continued focus on key areas of raw material development, with a focus on:
• Deforestation due diligence project, in collaboration with WWF and NWF
• Regional traceability project
• Continued valuable engagement with key stakeholders through the Traceability Supplier Scorecard
Working GroupThank you
Please reach feel free to reach out to us at the Leather Working Group
christina@leatherworkinggroup.comThe Certification Institute for the Leather Sector
(ICEC)
Sabrina FrontiniHow we work ICEC is the Quality Certification Institute in Europe and worldwide specific ONLY FOR THE LEATHER SECTOR It counts almost 25 YEARS OF ACTIVITIES being established in late 1994. It’s ACCREDITED BY ACCREDIA (the Italian Body of Accreditation): competence, impartiality, no conflicts of interest VOLUNTARY certifications of THIRD TYPE: NO obligation, YES to CONFIDENTIALITY of data
How many kinds of ICEC TS traceability schemes?
Since 2012, FOR COMPANIES PRODUCING-SELLING LEATHERS:
ICEC TS 410: TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR LEATHER’S TRACEABILITY APPLICABLE TO A SYSTEM OF
DIFFERENT PRODUCTS
ICEC TS 412: TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR LEATHER’S TRACEABILITY APPLICABLE TO INDIVIDUAL
PRODUCTS (e.g. with specific origin)
ICEC TS 414 : TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR THE TRACEABILITY OF FINAL GOODS IN THE LEATHER
SECTOR (E.G. PRODUCERS OF BAGS, FOOTWEAR)
ICEC Traceability logo (recorded)
IT’S A PRODUCT CERTIFICATION!How many ICEC TS 410/412 released and where?
TOTAL NUMBER OF ICEC TS 410/412 TRACEABILITY CERTIFICATIONS ALREADY
RELEASED: >80
TOTAL NUMBER OF ICEC TS 410/412 TRACEABILITY CERTIFICATIONS ONGOING:
>20
Where? e.g. Italy, Spain, Tunisy, Turkey, Netherlands, Serbia, etc..
(*Italy produces 65% in value of leathers in Europe and >20% worldwide)
NAMES OF TANNERIES/PRODUCT CERTIFIED:
ICEC DATABASE www.icec.itKey points of ICEC TS 410/412 • Traceability of the LEATHERS: raw materials or semi-manufactured hides and skins, or finished leathers (any kind of leather: bovine, calf, goat, sheep, exotic, etc..) • Organisations of any size regardless of what production stages they undertake (e.g. wet blue producers, finished leathers producers, traders) • The main aim is to provide an accurate indicator (rating) as to the level of monitoring by the Organisation over the raw materials purchased in terms of the geographical traceability of the stages of realization, also for reducing the risks associated with a failure to monitor such issues.
Different type of leathers….
….different type of solutions
• Captive and ranched animals
• Wild species
• Split leathers
• Brazilian/sud America origin (DCFL)
What changes is only the way of collecting data in the excel map
(e.g. for wild species we don’t have the farm but a geographical area of growing, for split
leathers we collect also the places where the leathers are split)ICEC TS certification structure
MANAGEMENT SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS:
(PRE-REQUIREMENTS+
SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS)
EXCEL MAP WITH PURCHASE ORDERS
(WEIGHTED RATING)PRE REQUIREMENTS OF THE CERTIFICATION 1.LEGISLATIVE COMPLIANCE APPLICABLE TO RAW MATERIALS (Ex. Reach): knowledge, management, application, updating 1. AT LEAST DOCUMENTAL VERIFIABILITY OF THE DECLARATION AND DATA SUPPLIED AND RECEIVED AT EVERY LEVEL (keeping documents related to batches and/or physical marks on each leathers). Self declarations are not accepted. IF PRE-REQUIREMENTS ARE NOT APPLIED ICEC DOESN’T ISSUE THE CERTIFICATION
SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS PURPOSE IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE COMPANIES HAVE A MANAGEMENT SYSTEM FOR TRACEABILITY BASED ON MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS DEFINED IN ICEC TS 410/412, PROVIDING A STANDARD OPERATIVITY AND PROCEDURES IN THE MANAGEMENT OF THE DAILY TRACKING PRODUCT. IT IS NOT SUFFICIENT ONLY TO CHECK THE ORDERS THROUGH THE MAPPING. THE COMPANY MUST ENSURE THAT THE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM OF IDENTIFICATION AND TRACKING OF THE PRODUCTS IS SOLID AND EFFECTIVE (ONSITE AND OUTSIDE THE COMPANY).
EXCEL MAP (and a rating from 0 to 100):
how is it calculated?
The rating is calculated through a mapping on the excel sheet provided by ICEC, which
is filled in by the company with entering data for a 12 months purchase orders of
hides/skins under certification.
ANNUAL CERTIFICATION
EVERY YEAR: from half a day to one day of annual audit in the tannery/company
to verify the accuracy of the reported information and to check the onsite-outside
traceabilityLet’s see the example of the excel mapping (fac-simile of TS410)
OFFAL RAW
MATERIAL 15 15 40 20 10
RAW
MATERIAL 0 30 40 20 10
WET BLUE 13,5 1,5 0 15 40 20 10
CRUST 9 1 9 1 0 10 40 20 10
FOR OFFAL -50% IF WE -50% IF WE
RAW HAVE A LIST HAVE A LIST
MATERIAL: - OF PLACES OF PLACES
10% OF THE AND NOT A AND NOT A
SCORE IF WE PUNTUAL PUNTUAL
KNOW THE PLACE PLACE (* IF,
COUNTRY BUT REFERRINGTO
NOT THE A ONL ONE
PLACE COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN, THE
SLAUGHTERS
BELONG TO A
UNIQUE
GROUP, FULL
SCORE)
ONLY FOR
OFFAL RAW COUNTRY/COUN
MATERIAL: COUNTRY OF TRIES OF THE
COUNTRY OF PLACE OF COUNTRY OF PLACE OF COUNTRY AND ORIGIN OF THE FARMING
S S S S S S PLACE OF S S PLACE/PLACES S
ORIGIN OF ORIGIN OF THE ORIGIN OF THE ORIGIN OF THE PLACE OF RAW (WHERE THE THEORETICAL SCORE
C C C C C C SLAUGHTER C C OF THE FARMING C ANOMALIES POINTS TO REMOVE FOR
CRUST CRUST WHERE WB/WW WB/WW ORIGIN OF THE LEATHERS ANIMAL WAS OF TRACEABILITY ON PONDERED AVERAGE OF
VOLUME % O O O O O O (NAME OF THE O O (NAME/S OF THE O RELATED TO THIS ANOMALIES OF THIS
(WHERE THE THE CRUST (WHERE THE (WHERE THE OFFAL (COUNTRY FARMED. IF THE INDIVIDUAL LINES THEORETICAL SCORE (ON % VOLUME)
R R R R R R SLAUGHTER R R FARMING R MAPPING TABLE MAPPING TABLE (**)
CRUST WAS WAS WB/WW WAS WB/WW WAS MATERIAL WHERE THE MORE THAN OF ORDER (MAX 100)
E E E E E E HOUSE) E E HOUSE/S) E
PRODUCED) PRODUCED PRODUCED) PRODUCED) (WHERE THE ANIMAL WAS ONE, WE MUST
OFFAL SLAUGHTERED) CONSIDER THE
MATERIAL LAST ONE)
WAS CUT)
FRANCE -
NOT
FRANCE - BBB PARIS - WWW
33 APPLICABLE NA NA NA 15 FRANCE 15 40 70,0 23,3 0,0
TANNERY SLAUTHERHOU
(NA)
SE
FRANCE -
PARIS - XXX
20 NA NA FRANCE 13,5 LULU' TANNERY 1,5 NA FRANCE 15 40 FRANCE 20 90,0 18,0 0,0
SLAUTHERHOU
SE
ITALY - ASTI -
ZZZ DDD BREEDING
47 NA NA ITALY 13,5 AA TANNERY 1,5 NA ITALY 15 40 ITALY 20 10 100,0 46,7 0,0
SLAUGHTERH HOUSE
OUSE
100 88 7,0 81FINAL RATING IN THE CERTIFICATE
MINIMUM: 30 POINTS TO RELEASE THE CERTIFICATE
LEVELS AND ASSESSMENTS Rating AVERAGE TRACEABILITY OF
THE ARTICLES
SUFFICIENT 30 Information up to
the country of origin
of raw materials
GOOD 31-70 Information up to
the place
of slaughtering
VERY GOOD 71-90 Information up to
the country of breeding
EXCELLENT 91-100 Information up to
the place of breeding
Country = Nation
Place = Company name
Origin = Where the slaughter of the animal happensCurrent situation and developments Developments: INTEGRATION OF TS410/412 WITH : • DEFORESTATION ISSUES (DCFL PROJECT WITH NWF) – COMPLETED • ANIMAL WELFARE ISSUES (ONGOING)
40 BRAZILIAN ORIGIN OF LEATHERS:
DCFL certification
PROBLEM:
DEFORESTATION AND SOIL CONVERSION
(MEAT, BUT LEATHER IS INDIRECTLY INVOLVED TO GIVE GARANTEES)
PARTNERSHIP:
ICEC-NWF
PROJECT:
DCFL certification (Deforestation and Conversion Free Leathers)
CONTENTS:
TS410/412 CERTIFICATION + ADDITONAL DATA REQUIRED + DCFL POLICIES + NWF ANALYSIS
GARANTEES:
THE TANNERY BUYS FROM A SUPPLY CHAIN (INCLUDING DIRECT AND INDIRECT FARMERS) NOT INVOLVED
IL DEFORESTATION (certifications already released)Animal welfare (AW) issues…
1) MAPPING OF AW LAWS APPLICABLE IN DIFFERENT COUNTIRES
(ALREADY DONE BY VETERINARY UNIVERSITY OF MILAN)
2) MAPPING OF VOLUNTARY CERTIFICATIONS OR BEST PRACTICES
ADOPTED BY FARMERS AND SLOUGHTERHOUSES (ONGOING)
3) ALLOCATIONS OF THESE DATA (POINT 1 AND 2) TO THE SPECIFIC
SUPPLY CHAIN OF THE CERTIFIED COMPANIES
4) AW RISK ANALYSIS RELEASED TO THE CERTIFIED COMPANIES
(IT WILL BE A CUSTOMIZED SERVICE PROVIDED BY ICEC TO
COMPANIES WITH ICEC TS410/412 CERTIFICATION)
DEADLINE: END OF 2021.
41and other developments
With new revisions of TS410/412 ICEC will put a focus on:
• information related to (physical) marks on leathers
• voluntary certifications on AW adopted by the supply chain
Deadline: 1st June 2021
42Thank you
for information:
ICEC – Quality Certification Institute for the leather sector
e-mail: icec@icec.it (Mrs. Sabrina Frontini)
web site: www.icec.it
Adress: Via Brisa 3, 20123 Milan (Italy)
On ICEC web site (www.icec.it) you find the DATABASE
with all the certified Companies.
This document is owned exclusively by ICEC. Any reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited.
43How to achieve
transparency in the
leather supply chain
with MADE IN GREEN
by OEKO-TEX®
Annika Sauerhöfer
OEKO-TEX® Association
Mirjam Bänninger
TESTEX AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute
May 2021
© Getty Images / Westend61THIS IS OEKO-TEX®
INPUT CONTROL
45TRACEABILITY CHALLENGES FOR COMPANIES
IN THE APPAREL INDUSTRY
? ? ?
?
of CPO’s apparel and footwear companies
56% see transparency & sustainability as #1 priority*
65% expect to achieve full traceability from source
to store by 2025*
*Source: McKinsey CPO Survey 2019, n=65, sourcing executives responsible for sourcing of 100 billion USD (apparel&footwear) 46TRACEABILITY
IS KEY:
OEKO-TEX®
LABEL CHECK
1. Enter Product ID
OEKO-TEX® website
www.oeko-tex.com
OR
2. Scan QR Code
47TRACEABILITY IS KEY: OEKO-TEX® LABEL CHECK
M1000002
Golf Fashion x
Hauptstrasse 2
60311 Frankfurt
Germany
Cotton Lining x
20200 Denizli
Turkey
Making up facility x Types of operation:
20158 Milan
Italy
Golf leather glove Leather glove with cotton lining x
Sheep leather
Chrome tanned
Vertical Facility x
310000 Wenzhou
China
Article number:
2535158 Types of operation:
Colours:
Finishing Facility x
Golf Fashion 515000 Shantou
China
Hauptstrasse 2
60311 Frankfurt
Germany
48HOW TO OBTAIN A MADE IN GREEN LABEL?
+ +
Leather articles of all production Certification for production facilities Label offers transparency
stages which have been tested which manufacture textile and through supply chain
for harmful substances leather articles under sustainable traceability
conditions
49OUTLOOK
Collaboration is key to exchange knowledge,
complement and benefit from each individual
strengths and to achieve supply chain
transparency
• With Multi stakeholder dialogue (e.g., SLF,
LWG)
• With industry partners (e.g., SPOOR)
• Between all actors in the leather supply chain
Transparency is important to foster
trust, safety & sustainability.
50
© iStock.com / diane39ANNIKA SAUERHÖFER
PRODUCT MANAGER MADE IN GREEN
OEKO-TEX® Association
Contact
P + 41 44 501 26 04
E annika.sauerhoefer@oekotex.com
www.oeko-tex.com
Thank you!
W
MIRJAM BÄNNINGER
GROUP PRODUCT MANAGER
LEATHER STANDARD
TESTEX AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute
Contact
P + 41 44 501 26 04
E mirjam.baenninger@testex.com
W www.testex.com 51Disclaimer
Copyright
The entire content of this document is subject to copyright with all rights reserved. Without prior written consent this
document or any part thereof may not be modified or used than for an other purpose than the one originally planned
by OEKO-TEX® Association and its member institutes.
No reliance and no warranty
This document may include technical or editorial inaccuracies or typographical errors. The information on this
document has been prepared solely for information and training purposes. While we have made every effort to
ensure that the information on this document is accurate at the time of publication, we make no representation or
warranty in any manner, expressly or by implication, as to the accuracy, reliability or completeness of the
information provided in this document.
52Sustainable Leather Foundation’s pathway to a traceable and transparent leather industry Textile Exchange Traceability Webinar Thursday 20th May 2021
Why Traceability is important?
Traceability: Transparency:
“The ability to identify and trace
the history, distribution, location “relevant information being
and application of products, made available for all elements of
parts and materials, to ensure the value chain in a harmonized
the reliability of sustainable way, which allows for common
claims, in the areas of human understanding, accessibility,
rights, labour (including health clarity and comparison”2
and safety), the environment
and anti-corruption”1
1. United Nations Global Compact Office, A Guide to Traceability A Practical Approach to Advance Sustainability in Global Supply Chains (New
York, 2014). Available at: https://d306pr3pise04h.cloudfront.net/docs/issues_doc%2Fsupply_chain%2FTraceability%2FGuide_to_Traceability.pdf
2. European Commission, A Background Analysis on Transparency and Traceability in the Garment Value Chain (2017)
https://ec.europa.eu/international-
partnerships/system/files/european_commission_study_on_background_analysis_on_transparency_and_traceability_in_the_garment_value_cha
in.pdfWhy Traceability is important?
Challenges:
Globalisation
Complex Supply Chains
Risks: Farming Practices
Commercial Sensitivities
Animal Welfare
Biodiversity & Land Use Conversion
Chemical Use
Deforestation
Environmental Pollution
Ethical Governance
Fair Treatment of Workers
Resource Consumption
www.sustainableleatherfoundation.comSLF’s Solution
People + Partnership:
SLF is a fully accessible and inclusive, not-for-profit
Foundation that actively supports improvement across
the whole leather value chain
Tools:
With the creation of a suite of tools designed to support
the process – from grassroots training materials,
consumer communication materials and audit standard all
brought together with the SLF Transparency Dashboard™
www.sustainableleatherfoundation.comSLF’s Solution
Level 1: Level 2: Level 3: Level 4: Level 5:
Manual Manual Manual Documentation Documentation system
documentation- documentation- documentation- system that includes that includes full
based chain of based chain of based chain of full lifecycle lifecycle passport,
custody, with mass custody, coupled custody, coupled passport, coupled including auditable and
[material] balance with physical with physical with physical verifiable information
that shows origin marking [identifiers], marking [identifiers], marking [identifiers], about birth farm of the
and destination with mass [material] with mass [material] with mass [material] animals, coupled with
balance that shows balance that shows balance that shows physical marking
origin and origin and origin and [identifiers], with mass
destination destination and that destination and that [material] balance that
speaks to an speaks to an shows origin and
electronic system electronic system destination and that
speaks to an electronic
system
www.sustainableleatherfoundation.comSLF Transparency Dashboard ™
• The SLF Transparency
Dashboard will clearly
indicate a value chain
partner’s ability to
demonstrate their own
traceability on a 1-tier up
and 1-tier down approach.
• Through the system behind
the Transparency
Dashboard, each tier will be
connected without the need
to disclose commercially
sensitive data to other value
chain parties
www.sustainableleatherfoundation.comSLF Transparency Dashboard ™
This view will be open
source – anyone who
visits the desktop
website or mobile app
will be able to view the
top-line information.
However, they will not
be able to access the
detail behind the
headline.
www.sustainableleatherfoundation.comSLF Transparency Dashboard ™
This view will be only be accessible for paid up partners of SLF. This will add value to the
information and create more incentive for companies to financially support the Foundation.
www.sustainableleatherfoundation.comWhat about consumers?
Licensed Brands can use the
Logo and QR technology to
direct consumers to
verifiable, demonstrable
information.
This information will be
permission based in
partnership with value chain
and SLF
www.sustainableleatherfoundation.comWhat about consumers?
Option One: Option Two: Option Three:
Fully integrated value Less granular Specific controls not
chain – QR code points integration – QR code verifiable yet – QR code
to the leather points to SLF points to Brand
manufacturers Transparency commitment / policy on
dashboard or other Dashboard homepage their website or to SLF
specific information websiteThank You More Information: Pathway Paper: https://www.sustainableleatherfoundation.com/sustainability- matters/slfs-pathway-to-a-traceable-and-transparent-leather-industry Email: Deborah@sustainableleatherfoundation.com www.sustainableleatherfoundation.com
5 webinars on Traceability in the Leather Supply Chain
EDT CET
Webinar 1: Understanding Traceability and the UNECE May 4th 10 - 11am 4 – 5pm
Guidelines
Webinar 2: Traceability Expectations of Sustainability May 20th 11am - 5 – 6pm
Standards in the Leather Supply Chain 12pm
Webinar 3: Traceability Solution Providers in the May 25th 10 - 11am 4 – 5pm
Leather Supply Chain
Webinar 4: Joint webinar with NWF and GRSB June 1st 10 -11am 4 – 5pm
Traceability at the farm level: focus on Brazil
Webinar 5: The Implementation of Traceability Solutions June 4th 10 - 11am 4 – 5pm
in Leather Supply Chains: Brand ExperienceThank you
TextileExchange.org
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