The evolution of cosmetic butters: authenticity - ProTec Botanica
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WAXES & BUTTERS 63
The evolution of cosmetic
butters: authenticity
n Dean Lockton – ProTec Botanica, UK
It is important in the first instance to An increasing availability of butters
understand that the focus of this article is achieved by hydrogenation therefore
on what we classify as ‘true’, ‘authentic’ or means the portfolio of authentic butters can
‘unadulterated’ butters in the personal care be presented to the formulator and
market. Such a butter may simply be ultimately, their compliance with the brief,
defined as “the fat obtained from the fruit, whether it be a natural or organic
nut or seed from a specific botanical requirement, which is a starting point.
source”. Further to this, it is recognised Having ticked the first compliance box, the
that a butter will be of a waxy solid or semi- increasing inclusion in formulations is of
solid state at a temperature range of course the foundation on which to build this
20°C – 30°C. While butters are significant product portfolio. From here onwards, the
to the food industry, cocoa and shea being journey from grower to end user has never
two key raw materials for confectionary, we been more important, especially the story
can equally identify with both as having behind the raw material. From origin,
major importance within the personal care looking positively at their ingredient being
market. That said, butter demand brought to market and, whether it be the
continues to grow but more-so outside of formulator, brand owner or consumer, all
these two historic core materials. What having an interest in different aspects of the
were historically recognised as the base story, be it the corporate social
ingredient, or an important component, in responsibility, the ethical production, the
many personal care products on which a environmental respect, the natural
formulation was focused, butters in the sustainability, or indeed the traceability of
personal care evolution have taken an the raw material. The marketing story exists
exotic route through authenticity. Listing for the brand owners and for the consumer,
Cocoa, Mango or Shea, for example, on the their wellbeing and lifestyle path of
product portfolio, when presented to growth and, since 2010, was the third consciousness continues.
formulators, now extends to such product largest growth in percentage terms. On a
names as Cupuaçu, Murumuru and Ucuuba. global scale, 2019 estimations for the Social responsibility
Multi-functional as they are, the ever- market were $36bn and this is predicted to The origin of many raw materials may be far
developing world and increasingly reach $54bn by 2027. The continued from what we would recognise as being
consumer-led demand means formulators upward pattern in these results, and a commercial and in some circumstances,
are keen to explore the growing number of strong value in sales revenue, has a positive underdeveloped may be a more
commercially available butters now present and encouraging effect throughout the appropriate adjective. Whether it be with
in the market for a variety of skin, lip and entire supply chain. The consumer-led their production facilities, their
hair care applications. movement via each step ultimately reaches organisational structure or their marketing
the origin; the raw material producer, which operation, the latter not existing at all in
Authenticity is a very significant achievement. many situations and therefore the reason
The demand for natural and organic ‘Authentic’, ‘true’ or ‘unadulterated’, for an established organisation to bring the
ingredients from the consumer strengthens whichever adjective we wish to use for the raw material to market. Having said that, it
not only the support of a healthy lifestyle butters, ‘hydrogenated’ or ‘modified’ are is the local traditional operation in
but brings with it an awareness of not ones we can give any consideration to management, such as grower groups or
sustainability. New product development in this situation. A hydrogenated olein owner co-operatives, in combination with
based on natural or organic themes are a does indeed have its place in commercial the local traditional processing techniques,
core growth focus for both brand owners applications, offering a consistent quality, that allows the continuity of raw material
and manufacturers and in the UK alone, the batch after batch, is one factor. The second production. And so, it is seen that with the
natural and certified organic product sector may be stable pricing, but this is not starting point working effectively and
increased by 23% in 2019 with a value of necessarily guaranteed. However, while efficiency following through each stage of
£106.4m. The Soil Association Organic many may think that such modified the origin to consumer path, collective
Beauty and Wellbeing Market 2020 Report products offer no contribution to the success ensues. The livelihoods of many at
further details that 2019 results showed a progress of true butters, the contradiction is origin may be dependent upon the success
ninth year of consecutive double-digit that it may have some influence. of the raw material as few income options
June 2020 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
64 WAXES & BUTTERS
exist, increased production benefits the
local rural communities and, with the
increased demand, an expansion in the
community network follows, as fruit, nut
and seed collection requirements increase.
Sustainability
While the positives can be seized upon of a
raw material demand existing and the
confidence in the ability to fulfil that demand
existing also, this supply / demand ratio must
always remain balanced. The ratio
relationship must encompass many criteria
and, with such a delicate balance, if tipped to
a bias it could have a disastrous outcome.
The requirement to be sensible and
consistent in all commercial activity is a
priority never to be overlooked, not least to
allow demand outstripping supply and there
being a risk that quality is compromised, and
continuity of supply is threatened.
Consistency in everything is of paramount
importance and the irony is that the only
inconsistency in the whole process is nature
itself, the very reason that we are gifted to
have access to these raw materials. It
therefore becomes evident that the
management of the botanical source is critical
in all growing areas, a sustainable forest strict focus on the quality of the starting status. Enabling ease of penetration to the
management plan and an environmental botanical, acid values and peroxide levels skin and scalp, and the non-obstruction of
protection policy must exist. The natural should be of no concern; low results are an skin pores are advantageous, efficient and
harvesting protocol should never be forced or expectation and any concerns with stability effective. Protection from external factors
deviated from, the fruit, nuts and seeds falling should therefore be unfounded. The cold and anti-microbial activity can also be
when mature and being collected when ready pressed process and method of extraction identified and used to good effect.
to do so. Methods of collection and their allows all the naturally occurring components Whatever the finished product, a cream,
timing follow a traditional and natural process to be retained for the benefits of the raw lotion, moisturiser, shampoo, conditioner,
respectively. If this practice is followed then material, with no exposure to high stick or bar product, authentic butters have
the raw material quality, while not guaranteed temperatures or solvent extraction in the an important role to play in a multitude of
due to natural climatic influences, will have an refining process that may impact the natural personal care applications. Their touch and
acceptance of consistency. composition, especially where components feel, their softness, their smoothness and
“The best way to preserve the are temperature sensitive. The idea with cold the ease in which they can be spread, are all
environment is by keeping a community pressed extraction is to ensure the characteristics that the formulator can take
there. Encouraging the community to triglycerides and other components such as to the bench to work with.
remain in the countryside, besides valuing a tocopherols, phytosterols, phenolic Skin, lip and hair formulation development
wealth of the local ecological compounds and hydrocarbons remain, with in moisturising, emolliency, hydration, anti-
heritage, contributes to its preservation. no degradation to the raw material aging, regeneration, anti-inflammatory,
Care begins here, because it is where the whatsoever. healing, absorbing, rejuvenating, after-sun,
community sustains itself.” nourishment, protection, shine, gloss,
Composition, properties and softness, maintenance, volume control, and
Quality and certification applications anti-frizz formulations have the opportunity to
Authentic, socially responsible, ethically The properties of each authentic butter and contribute to the evolution through
produced, environmentally respectful, their compositional differences offer the authenticity.
sustainably aware and 100% natural, are formulator a varied raw material portfolio
credible factors for a progressive looking with which to work, and the option to make Exotic authentic butters
formulator, brand owner and consumer. In choices on those most suited to the brief. As an example, a selection of Brazilian
addition, COSMOS Approved and a selection A balanced composition between saturated Rainforest butters are available that are
of raw materials with organic certification is and unsaturated fatty acids offers a low compliant in all aspects that have been
also a possibility. To further enhance the melting point close to body temperature, described beforehand, sourced throughout
product portfolio, there is access to an exotic allowing high inclusion levels in the finished three Amazon states and benefitting 1,347
butter range that has not undergone any product. Unsaponifiable fractions contain families comprising 5,484 individuals.
refining process in its production. The fruits, tocopherols, phytosterols, vitamins and
nuts or seeds collected through the natural minerals that truly represent the botanical Cupuaçu Butter
maturing process and in-line with the natural source in its natural state, being nutrient A balanced composition between saturated
harvesting time ensures a good starting rich. Concentration of lauric acid offers the and unsaturated fatty acids, giving the
material is available; the naturally contained performance of a mineral oil but with the product a low melting point and a soft-solid
vitamins, carotenoids and tocopherols are naturality status, being non-petroleum aspect that melts quickly upon contact with
present and preserved. Furthermore, with derived, therefore enhancing the ethical the skin. Its unsaponifiable fraction is
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE June 2020
WAXES & BUTTERS 65
Cupuaçu Butter Ucuuba Butter
A rich source of myristic acid (C14:0) and
Typical Fatty Acid Profile %
lauric acid (C12:0) with good absorption
Palmitic Acid (C16:0) 5–9
properties and offering versatility in skin
Stearic Acid (C18:0) 32–38 and hair care formulations.
Oleic Acid (C18:1) 37–43 Skin care:
Linolenic Acid (C18:3) Max. 4 l Anti-inflammatory
Arachidic Acid (C20:0) 9–13 l Anti-aging
l Hydrating
abundant with many benefitting compounds, l Protective
including tocopherols and phytosterols. l Emollient
l Its primary fatty acid is oleic acid (C18:1, Ucuuba Butter. l Moisturizing
omega-9) followed by stearic acid (C18:0) Hair care:
l Also contains palmitic acid (C16:0) and Ucuuba Butter l Protective
arachidic acid (C20:0) Typical Fatty Acid Profile % l Shine and gloss
l High in phytosterols, especially beta- Lauric Acid (C12:0) 14–17 l Volume control PC
sitosterol
l High in natural vitamin E and vitamins A
Myristic Acid (C14:0) 67–73
Palmitic Acid (C16:0) Max. 6
References
and C 1 Organic Beauty and Wellbeing Market 2020,
l Saturated/unsaturated ratio: 60/40
Oleic Acid (C18:1) Max. 6
Soil Association Certification
l Soft solid that melts quickly when in 2 https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-
contact with the skin Murumuru Butter databases/cosing/ Accessed March 10, 2020
l Melting point: 30°C Tocopherol rich and containing short and 3 http://globalshea.com/index?page=
l Triglycerides exhibit excellent water medium chain fatty acids belonging to the MjYzOTE0MjAuMzc2NQ==/Home Accessed
absorption capacity lauric group, low acidity, high levels of March 7, 2020
l Softness saturated fatty acids, with a firm consistency 4 https://www.mintel.com/beauty-trends
l Recovery of moisture and natural offering a higher melting point. The high Accessed March 7, 2020
elasticity, especially in dry and lauric acid content can offer a replacement 5 https://www.cosmos-standard.org/cosmos-
mistreated skin and hair for mineral silicones. A versatile material for news Accessed March 8, 2020
use in skin, hair and lip care. 6 https://www.soilassociation.org/press-centre/
Murumuru Butter Skin care: Accessed March 7, 2020
Typical Fatty Acid Profile % l Nourishing 7 https://www.cbi.eu/market-
Lauric Acid (C12:0) 44–56 l Soothing information/natural-ingredients-
l Protective cosmetics/shea-butter/ Accessed March 7,
l Emollient
Myristic Acid (C14:0) 24–32
2020
l Moisturizing
Palmitic Acid (C16:0) 5–9
8 https://www.futuremarketinsights.com/
Oleic Acid (C18:1) 5–10
Hair care: reports /natural-cosmetics-market Accessed
Linoleic Acid (C18:2) Max 4.5
l Protective and nourishing for roots March 7, 2020
Linolenic Acid (C18:3) Max. 0.1 l Maintenance for curls 9 http://citroleogroup.com/site2017/en/
Arachidic Acid (C20:0) Min 0.1 l Volume control Accessed March 8, 2020
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