The 2018 Ethical Fashion Report - THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE - Tearfund
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
The 2018 Ethical Fashion Report THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE
THE 2018 ETHICAL FASHION REPORT
THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE
Date: April 2018
Authors: Gershon Nimbalker, Jasmin Mawson, Claire Harris,
Meredith Rynan, Libby Sanders, Claire Hart, Megan Shove.
Behind the Barcode is a project of Baptist World Aid Australia.
New Zealand headquartered companies researched in partnership
with TearFund New Zealand.
www.behindthebarcode.org.au
Sponsored by Baptist Insurance Services.
Report Design
Susanne Geppert
Front cover photo: © Baptist World Aid Australia.
2
CONTENTS
1. Executive Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
2. Methodology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
3. Five Years since the Rana Plaza Disaster. . . . . 24
4. Interwoven Stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Consumer Advocacy 28, Governments 29,
Companies 30, Workers 32
5. Policies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
6. Transparency and Traceability. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
7. Auditing and Supplier Relationships. . . . . . . . . . . . 40
8. Worker Empowerment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
9. Living Wage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Appendices
Statements from non-responsive brands 93
10. Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Sources 96
11. Brand Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 About Baptist World Aid Australia 98
12. Survey Data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Acknowledgements 99
3
1
Executive Summary
This section outlines the research aims
and scope, data collection and findings
and overall results of all companies.
4
*=
empowerment
Worker
relationships
supplier
Auditing and
traceability
OVERALL GRADE
Transparency and
Policies
F D D+ B+ Abercrombie & Fitch* D
OVERVIEW
C+ B A+ A+ adidas A–
F C C+ B+ ALDI Stores C–
F F F F Ally Fashion* F
non-responsive companies
C– C– D+ A– Anthea Crawford* C
Overall Grades: A– N
B– A– A+ A+ APG & Co A–
D– C– B– A+ Arcadia Group C+
D B C+ A– AS Colour C+
D– C B A ASICS C+
C– B– A– A+ ASOS B+
F D D+ C Bardot D
D C+ C+ A+ Barkers Clothing C+
exploitation in their supply chains.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
D– C– D+ B+ Ben Sherman Australia C–
D– C– C A Best & Less C
F F F B Betts Group D–
D– D+ C A Big W C
This is the fifth report produced by Baptist
D C C– A– Billabong C
the risks of forced labour, child labour and
F F F F Bloch* F
It grades 114 companies, from A to F, on the
World Aid Australia examining labour rights
strength of their systems to mitigate against
F D– C– C Blue Illusion D
management systems in the fashion industry.
D– C– C A Boden C
F D+ D C+ Boohoo D
D– D+ C+ A Brand Collective (Apparel) C
D C– B A Brand Collective (Footwear) C+
F F F D+ Bras N Things* F
F D+ B– A+ Coles C
A+ A A+ A+ Common Good A+
B A A+ A+ Cotton On Group A
B– A– A A+ Country Road Group A–
D+ C D A Cue C
D– B– B– A+ David Jones B–
F D– D+ A+ De Vere Textiles (RUBY Apparel) D+
F F F C Decjuba* F
D– C+ C A+ Designworks C
C– B– A A+ Esprit B+
A+ A– A A+ Etiko A+
F D D+ A– Ezibuy D+
D D+ B A+ Factory X C+
F F F B+ Farmers* D–
F D– D A– Fast Future Brands D
F F D+ A– Forever 21 D
D+ C+ A– A Forever New B–
A A+ A+ A+ Freeset A+
D– F C A– Fruit of the Loom* D+
D– C A– A+ Gap Inc. B–
investors, and governments everywhere.
F F F A– Gazal* D–
On April 24, 2013, the Rana Plaza building
D C C+ A+ General Pants Group C+
shocked the world, catapulting the plight of
D+ A– A– A+ Gildan Activewear B+
collapsed just outside of Dhaka, Bangladesh,
the worst garment-factory disaster in history.
injuring thousands more. It was a disaster that
D C– B+ A+ Gorman C+
claiming the lives of 1,134 garment workers and
It has been five years since the world witnessed
D+ B– A– A+ H&M B+
workers into the minds of consumers, companies,
C+ B A– A+ Hallenstein Glasson Holdings B+
B– A– A– A+ Hanesbrands A–
F F F F House of Quirky* F
D D+ B+ A+ Hugo Boss Group C+
A– A A+ A+ Icebreaker A+
B– A A A+ Inditex A–
B+ B– B+ A+ Industrie B+
D+ B+ A– A+ Jeanswest B+
F C C+ A+ JETS C
D+ C+ C+ A+ Just Group C+
to be made.
F F F F K&K* F
D– C+ C A– Karen Walker* C
B+ B+ A+ A+ Kathmandu A
D+ B A– A+ Kmart B+
D+ B B– A+ Kookai B–
A+ A A– A+ Kowtow A
F D+ C– B+ L Brands* D+
F D– D A Lacoste D+
D– C+ A– A+ Levi Strauss & Co* B–
D+ B– C– B Lorna Jane C
F F F B Lowes* D–
C+ A+ A– A+ Lululemon Athletica A–
D B– B A+ Macpac B
D C A– A+ Marks & Spencer B
F D C– A Max* D+
A+ A– A+ A+ Mighty Good Group A+
F F D B+ Munro Footwear Group D
D C B– A Myer C+
responded by improving its systems, forming
D C+ A– A+ New Balance B
new alliances, and becoming more transparent.
D– C+ B+ A+ Next B–
The 2018 Ethical Fashion Report (The Report) is
For five years, The Report has been tracking the
systems that companies have in place to uphold
the fifth released by Baptist World Aid Australia.
D– C B+ A+ Nike B–
Since then, the global fashion industry has largely
However, there is still a great deal of improvement
F D D+ A– Noni B Group D+
B– B– A A+ Nudie Jeans A–
5
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
OVERVIEW
the rights of workers. These rights include the of child labour, forced labour, and exploitation.
right to a safe work place, a living wage, and the Excitingly, in addition to its traditional focus on
These 114 companies represent 407 brands.
freedom from forced and child labour. labour rights, The 2018 Report also includes To check brand grades, go to the brand
Since its first edition in 2013, The Report has preliminary data on the global fashion industry’s index on page 55 or the online fast finder
environmental performance. 77% of assessed
continued to grow in scope. This year, it grades the at www.behindthebarcode.org.au
practices of 114 companies (from A–F), assessing companies actively engaged in the research
the strength of those systems to mitigate the risk process.
Overall Grades: O– Z
A+
D+
D+
D+
D+
C+
C+
C+
C+
B+
D–
C–
C–
B–
B–
OVERALL GRADE
A
A
D
D
C
C
C
B
B
B
B
B
F
F
F
F
F
Pavement United Brands*
Voyager Distributing Co*
Specialty Fashion Group
Simon de Winter Group
The Warehouse Group*
Retail Apparel Group
Target Australia
The PAS Group
Trelise Cooper*
Outland Denim
Wish Designs*
Seed Heritage
Ralph Lauren*
Sussan Group
Rodd & Gunn
Zimmermann
R.M. Williams
THE ICONIC*
Roger David
© ILO/Nguyen Viet Thanh, via: https://flic.kr/p/TEP7SN
Tree of Life
PVH Corp*
Patagonia
UNIQLO*
Tigerlily*
VF Corp
Rip Curl
Seafolly
Postie+
RREPP
Oxford
Puma
T&T*
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
A+
B+
A–
A–
Policies
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
B
F
F
F
F
F
F
Transparency and
A+
A+
A+
D+
D+
D+
D+
C+
C+
B+
D–
D–
A–
A–
A–
A–
C–
B–
B–
B–
B–
A
D
D
C
C
C
C
traceability
F
F
F
F
Auditing and
A+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
C+
B+
B+
B+
D–
D–
D–
A–
B–
supplier
A
D
D
D
C
C
C
C
B
B
B
F
F
F
F
F
F
relationships
Worker
A+
D+
D+
D+
D+
B+
D–
D–
D–
C–
C–
C–
B–
D
D
D
D
C
empowerment
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
F
Workers at a Hung Yen-based garment factory in Vietnam.
*= non-responsive companies
6
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
C+ 18 A 11 F
companies assessed median grade companies received companies received
A range grades F grades
2017 2018 For the first time, we
have assessed
companies on their
26% 34% gender policies and
strategies. Only 22% of
companies had both a
policy and strategy to
While transparency remains a challenge in the industry, address gender
we celebrate the continued improvements here. The inequality and
percentage of companies publishing full direct supplier discrimination in their
lists has increased from 26% to 34% in the last year alone. supply chain.
© ILO/Aaron Santos, via: https://flic.kr/p/hJVRDu
Worker Empowerment remains
Tracing of raw materials remains a significant
D-
the area where the most work
challenge, with just 7% of companies knowing
where all their raw materials, such as cotton,
are coming from.
7% still needs to be done. The
median grade for that section
of our assessment is D–.
7
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
INDUSTRY PROGRESS
Baptist World Aid Australia’s first report on The scope of our research has expanded significantly:
the fashion industry was published in
2013; since then, we have seen the 2013 41 companies
industry make significant progress in the 2018 114 companies
quality of their labour rights management
2013 128 brands
systems.
2018 407 brands
We’ve seen a significant increase in
company responsiveness to the Ethical
Fashion Report’s research since 2013: Traceability reaching deeper into the supply chain of
companies has increased over the last five years:
2018
2018 2018
2013
Companies 2013 Companies
2013
working to 78% working to trace
trace where where their raw
17%
77% their fabrics
come from:
materials come
from:
54% 49%
42%
In 2013, just one sixth of companies that were The percentage of companies tracking the presence
of democratically elected unions and collective 2013 24%
assessed were publishing supplier lists – in the
bargaining agreements in their final stage factories
2018 Report, the proportion is one third. has had significant improvement since 2013. 2018 44%
8
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
WHO MAKES OUR CLOTHES?
Who Makes our Clothes?
Increasingly, the world’s population is clothed by
SHARE OF GLOBAL CLOTHING EXPORTS
workers in the Asia-Pacific. Across the region,
in low and middle-income countries, 43 million China – 36.4% Turkey – 3.4%
people work in factories to produce garments,
textiles, and footwear.1 India constitutes the biggest European Union – 26.4% Indonesia – 1.7%
share of these workers at 16.7 million, followed by
China (6.2 million), and Bangladesh (4.9 million).2 Bangladesh – 6.4% Cambodia – 1.4%
However, despite the quantity of workers in India,
Vietnam – 5.5% USA – 1.3%
it is still China (with 37.2% of the market) that
commands the largest share of global clothing India – 4% Other – 13.5%
exports. Bangladesh, Vietnam, and India are
the next largest exporters in the region, with
6.3%, 6.4%, and 5.5% of global market share
respectively.4 China’s lower quantity of workers,
relative to its volume of exports, is partly explained
by the low availability of data outside urban
production hubs and partly explained by the
country’s higher rates of productivity.
The pattern of production has also been shifting in
recent years. Promisingly, in China, wage growth
has been averaging about 9.1% a year. This has had
beneficial impacts for workers; but at the same
time, has caused many companies to relocate
production to lower-cost markets. Bangladesh,
Vietnam, and Cambodia have seen the largest
increase in garment exports as a result (each
growing by between 5% and 6% per year).
Source: World Trade Organisation
9
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
WHO MAKES OUR CLOTHES?
EMPLOYMENT IN THE GARMENT, TEXTILES AND FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY *
NUMBER OF
WORKERS
18 000
16 000
14 000
12 000
10 000
8000
6000
4000
2000
0
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
5)
)
)
2)
10
16
13
15
12
15
16
16
13
15
/1
/1
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
14
11
(2
(2
(2
(2
(2
(2
(2
(2
(2
(2
MALE FEMALE
0
0
(2
a
ka
h
ar
nd
na
es
am
a
R
(2
di
es
si
PD
m
in
an
hi
la
a
ne
bo
tn
an
ad
di
n
pp
C
ai
* = latest year available 3
iL
ya
o
ie
do
st
am
In
gl
Th
La
ili
V
Sr
ki
M
an
In
Ph
C
Pa
B
Source: International Labor Organisation
10EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
INDUSTRY CONCERNS
Concerns for Worker Rights The risk occurs at multiple points of the supply The risk of child labour in manufacturing is also
For the 43 million workers of the Asia-Pacific, chain — with manufacturing accounting for about significant, with the ILO estimating 18 million
and for millions of others across the world, the 15% of forced labourers, while agriculture accounts victims may exist.10
global fashion industry is a significant provider for a further 11%.6 Women, who make up the The United States Department of Labor reports
of jobs. It also spurs economic growth, generates largest proportion of garment producers, are also that child labour is used in garment, textile, and
tax revenue, provides valuable skills and training, more vulnerable, accounting for 57.6% of all forced footwear manufacturing in countries across
and delivers crucial foreign exchange. All of labourers. the Asia-Pacific. These include China, India,
these factors can, and often do, contribute According to risk analytics released by Verisk Bangladesh, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia,
to improving the lives of these workers and Maplecroft, most of the world’s largest garment Cambodia, and Pakistan.11
their communities. exporters — such as China, Bangladesh, India,
At the same time however, the global fashion Vietnam, and Cambodia — are all rated “high” or
industry can be a place of exploitation for millions. “extreme” on the risk of forced labour.7
For the majority of workers in the global fashion
industry, wages are so low that they leave them, Child Labour in the Fashion Industry
and their families, trapped in poverty. Beyond this, Child labour, particularly in the production of raw
fashion production throughout the Asia-Pacific is materials like cotton, is prevalent in fashion supply
marred by the presence of slavery, and problems chains.
of child labour remain persistent. The ILO reports that there are 152 million child
Though safety standards are improving labourers in the world. The majority, 71%
(particularly in Bangladesh), fire safety, structural (108 million), can be found in the agricultural sector.
defects in factories, and unsafe working conditions Cotton production carries an especially high risk
have not yet been adequately addressed. of child labour, with almost every major cotton-
producing country being impacted. These include
Forced Labour in the Fashion Industry China, India, Brazil, Pakistan, Turkey, Uzbekistan,
© ILO, via https://flic.kr/p/BSap2L
Fashion is a high-risk industry for forced labour. Turkmenistan, and the United States.8 Cotton
The International Labour Organisation (ILO) and from Turkmenistan is of particular concern, with
Walk Free estimate that there are 24.9 million child labour and forced labour being widespread
forced labourers in the world, with 60% of them and state sponsored.9 Among the large cotton
being exploited by private enterprise. Two thirds of producing nations, Australia is one of only a few
forced labour victims are in the same region where exceptions to this trend.
the majority of the world’s garment production
takes place: the Asia-Pacific.5
11EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
KEY FINDINGS
Key Findings final stage of manufacturing. Beyond this, Outland materials) and, like APG and Co, has invested in
Effective labour rights management systems are Denim, Common Good, and Etiko were able to developing long-term supplier relationships. Both
critical to addressing the risks outlined above. It is demonstrate that living wages are also being paid companies receive an A– grade.
now widely accepted that a significant share of the at their input suppliers. Outdoor fashion companies, as a subset of the
responsibility rests with companies themselves. In Cotton On Group has demonstrated continuous broader global fashion industry, continue to shine.
many instances, companies have pursued lower improvement since the first edition of The Report. Icebreaker, being the best graded amongst its
costs by moving production to regions with poorer It is now the best rated, large multinational peers, receives an A+ grade. Both Patagonia and
industrial relations systems and lower institutional headquartered in Australia. This year, Cotton On Kathmandu receive A grades.
capacity. Group receives an A grade, with its progress driven Conversely, several companies have received F
Since the first campaigns against sweatshops by several factors. grades in consecutive editions of The Report.
in the mid-90s, companies have increasingly For the past three years, Cotton On Group has These are Ally Fashion, Bloch, Decjuba, Wish and
recognised that they cannot outsource been committed to tracing deeper into the supply Voyager Distributing (brands include Ping Pong
responsibility to third parties; that they themselves chain, all the way to raw materials. It can now and Kachel).
must exercise adequate due diligence to address trace between 50% and 70% of its raw materials,
risk. Global frameworks, such as the United In most instances, the F grade has been awarded
sourcing much of its cotton through a combination because companies have little or no publicly
Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human of the Better Cotton Initiative and its in-house
Rights, and the Sustainable Development Goals available information to assess their systems
“Kwale Cotton Program” (this program is further and, additionally, chose not to engage with The
support this understanding. highlighted on page 43 of The Report). Cotton On Report’s research process.
has also become increasingly transparent about its
Company Performance suppliers and has invested substantial resource in Without transparency, it is almost impossible for
A small cohort of companies in The Report supplier training. consumers to trust that these companies have
were found to have exceptional labour rights sufficient systems to ensure that the rights of
Similarly, APG and Co and Country Road workers are being upheld. The F Grade is not an
management systems — including Outland Denim, Group have each invested substantially in their
Common Good, Icebreaker, Freeset, Etiko, and the assertion that these brands necessarily have poor
systems. They too can demonstrate year on year labour rights management systems, but merely
Mighty Good Group. Each of these companies improvement.
receive an A+. They knew their supply chains from that their labour rights management systems are
farm to factory and had intentionally invested APG and Co’s work towards developing long- not sufficiently visible for assessment.
in developing quality relationships with their lasting and quality relationships with suppliers,
suppliers. In most instances, these companies were along with its efforts to ensure that workers can Supplier Knowledge
transparent about who their suppliers are. They unionise, cooperate, and bargain collectively is Supplier knowledge is a key pillar of a strong
were also able to demonstrate that workers had commendable. labour rights management system. If companies
an avenue to collectively agitate for their rights Country Road Group has demonstrated increasing don’t know (or don’t care) who their suppliers
and that living wages are being paid in at least the knowledge of its suppliers (back to its raw are, then there’s virtually no way of ensuring
12EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
KEY FINDINGS
that the workers who make their products aren’t raw materials tracing was largely restricted to
being exploited. It is encouraging then, that this Fairtrade companies. Now 42% of companies are Companies that have begun
continues to be one of the most significant areas seeking to trace their cotton suppliers, with many
of improvement for the industry. collaborating through the Better Cotton Initiative
publishing their supplier lists
This year, The Report found that more than 82% (BCI) to do so. • ASOS • Icebreaker
of companies knew more than three quarters of BCI is a multi-stakeholder initiative that works • Barkers Clothing • Jeanswest
their final stage manufacturing suppliers (first tier). with brands, NGOs, farms, and cotton-traders to (Published after our
• Common Good
For the majority of companies, it is at this stage improve social and environmental protections and research cut-off)
of the supply chain that they have the strongest increase farm yields. • Etiko
• JETS
relationships and most control. Thanks to this • Factory X
All Fairtrade companies excel at cotton-tracing • Kathmandu
strong visibility, the worst forms of exploitation, • Gorman
and ensuring that robust systems are in place
forced labour and child labour, are now far less • Next
to protect workers in their cotton fields. This • Hallenstein
prevalent in the actual manufacturing of garments • The Warehouse
cohort includes RREPP, Etiko, Mighty Good Group, Glasson Holdings
(though are still present in many cases). Group
Freeset, Common Good, and Kowtow Clothing.
However, deeper into the supply chain, where
Amongst non-Fairtrade companies, Cotton On
there is far less visibility, the risks remain
Group, adidas, and Country Road Group show
substantial. Encouragingly, more and more
yearly increases in their use of traceable cotton. willingness to be accountable to consumers, civil
companies are identifying their suppliers beyond
adidas is currently using 60% BCI cotton and has society, and workers; and makes it easier for these
the first tier. In fact, The Report found that 78%
planned to increase this amount to 100% by the groups to collaborate to ensure the rights of
of companies are now actively tracing their fabric
end of the year. workers are upheld.
suppliers (second tier); this is up from 49% in 2013.
37% of companies now know more than 75% of Kathmandu remains a stand out performer One significant element of transparency is the
their second-tier suppliers, up from 24% in 2013. when it comes to tracing raw materials. By using publication of a list of suppliers that includes their
a combination of BCI and Fairtrade cotton, business names and addresses. Since the first
But one of the most exciting areas of improvement
Kathmandu has traced three quarters of its cotton edition of The Report, the proportion of companies
is in supplier knowledge of raw materials (third tier,
supply and, through The Responsible Down publishing supplier lists has substantially increased
usually cotton farms). This improved knowledge
Standard*, has traced 100% of its down supply. every year. In 2013, it was just 16% of companies
has, in most cases, been coupled with improved
publishing supplier lists. This year, the proportion
systems to address exploitation.
Transparency is 34%. In the last twelve months alone, at least 13
When Baptist World Aid Australia began this One of the most notable positive trends for the companies have begun publishing their supplier
research in 2013, most companies argued that global fashion industry has been the improved lists, including those highlighted on this page.
tracing back to the farm was outside their corporate transparency around supply chain In this year’s edition of The Report, in line with the
scope of control and responsibility. At the time, practices. Transparency demonstrates a company’s Transparency Pledge, an initiative put forward by
* The Responsible Down Standard ensures that all down and feathers comes from ducks and geese
that have been well treated. See more at http://responsibledown.org/ (accurate at 3rd April 2018).
13EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
KEY FINDINGS
© ILO/Nguyen A., via: https://flic.kr/p/nsuGiC
a coalition of civil society groups including Human companies that did not engage. However, due
Rights Watch,12 Baptist World Aid Australia has to their high levels of public transparency, both
begun to collect data to assess which companies companies were graded relatively well, receiving
are going beyond minimum standards for a B- grade. Notably, non-responsive companies
transparency, by providing detailed information on The Warehouse, Karen Walker, and Anthea
suppliers in line with industry best practice. Crawford, all receive C grades, largely due to their
commitment to public transparency.
The Report identifies that 18% of companies are
providing significant detail on their suppliers However, several companies have chosen not
— including such information as the number of to disclose or make any information publicly
workers, a breakdown by gender, the types of available. Without this information, it becomes
products being produced, and any corrective almost impossible for the public to know whether
action plans on the facility. companies are investing sufficiently to ensure that
workers are not being exploited. For this reason,
This information makes it far easier for journalists,
these companies receive an F grade in The Report.
NGOs, workers, and unions to verify that the
claims companies make about their labour rights For more information about the research
systems are accurate, and that a company’s labour process and non-responsive companies, refer
rights systems are working as intended. to the methodology (page 18). Non-responsive
companies were also given the opportunity to
Non-Responsive Companies provide a statement about why they chose not
and Low Transparency to engage with this research. These statements are
Low transparency is one of the biggest included on page 93.
determinants for the receipt of a low grade in The
Report, because companies are graded based on a Living Wage
combination of publicly available information, and The global fashion industry continues to grow each
any information they are willing to disclose to The year and is among the most labour-intensive in the
Report’s researchers. world. It is also a significant driver of employment
for groups that have been traditionally vulnerable
As mentioned previously, 77% of companies
— women, migrants, and young people. In
choose to engage with The Report’s research, with
some cases, the industry has been a source for
most companies seeing value in the process
empowerment and a stepping stone to a better
of being benchmarked and gaining feedback.
life for these individuals. However, too often, it has
Levi Straus and PVH Corp (producer of Tommy become a facilitator of exploitation. A Worker in Dong Nai, Vietnam.
Hilfiger and Calvin Klein brands) are examples of
14EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
KEY FINDINGS
A wage that is sufficient for workers to be able to a corporate labour rights system is genuinely Among larger producers, Hanesbrands is one
afford the basics (food, water, healthcare, clothing, responsive to the needs of workers. of the leading companies. More than 70% of its
electricity, and education) for themselves and their It is encouraging that more companies are manufacturing, and a significant proportion of its
dependants — a living wage — is recognised as increasingly taking the challenge of paying a living fabrics production, comes from company-owned
a human right. Yet most garment sector workers wage seriously. 34% have adopted a methodology facilities. Hanesbrands has worked with economists
receive wages well below this. It comes as no to calculate a living wage. Worryingly however, and conducted an extensive benchmark of its
surprise, then, that low wages are among the chief only 17% of companies could demonstrate that workers in these facilities to estimate what level
concerns for workers.13 workers, in any part of their final stage of the of household income is needed to cover the basic
In Bangladesh, the minimum entry level wage for a supply chain were receiving a living wage. Only needs of workers. They have then ensured that all
garment worker is US$63 per month. Calculations one in 20 companies demonstrated that all workers are paid more than this amount.
by the Global Alliance for a living wage suggest workers at their final stage were being paid such Other commendable efforts include Kmart
that a fair living wage would be approximately wages. Australia, which has benchmarked wages in a few
US$214 per month for Dhaka and US$177 per Fairtrade brands and Outland Denim are of its Bangladeshi facilities and is now beginning
month for satellite cities around Dhaka. However, the standouts in The Report when it comes to implement initiatives to raise wage levels.
even in the satellite cities, this estimation of a to ensuring that a living wage is being paid. Companies that produce in Australia and are
living wage is 2.8 times the current amount paid Outland Denim owns its factory at the first tier of accredited with Ethical Clothing Australia (ECA)
to an entry level worker. In Vietnam, the minimum production. They have developed a living wage are also noteworthy. ECA ensures that wage levels
wage is US$153 per month, nearly half that of the methodology, partnering with their workforce to and working conditions for Australian production
estimated living wage at US$290 per month.14 understand what a fair living wage looks like in (at a minimum) meet with Australian standards.
The benefits of a living wage are substantial. In the region where they operate. Outland Denim Companies accredited with ECA include Anthea
fact, payment of a living wage could transform also ensure that this wage is paid, as a minimum, Crawford, Cue Clothing, and R.M Williams.
the lives of millions by allowing people to lift to all workers and seek out fabric suppliers with
themselves out of poverty; and, at the same time, a track record of promoting labour rights. For
drive economic growth within communities and example, workers from their primary fabric supplier
nations. Living wages also mean that parents earn receive wages arrived at by a collective bargaining
enough to send their children to school, rather agreement. And Outland Denim has demonstrated
than to factories. This would mean that, where that these wages are consistent with a living wage
such wages are paid, the likelihood of other forms in the region.
of exploitation, such as forced labour and child Common Good and Etiko could likewise
labour, fall dramatically. It is also worth noting that, demonstrate that living wages are being paid to all
given the importance of wages to workers, being workers for their final stage production, and in the
able to demonstrate that workers are receiving a production of their fabrics.
living wage, is one of the most telling signs that
15EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
NEW AREAS OF RESEARCH
New Areas of Research them a living wage; their work will also include This preliminary research is telling. It demonstrates
efforts to address impacts on the environment. a significant correlation between the strongest
Gender labour rights performers and strong environmental
This year, Baptist World Aid Australia began an
This year, for the first time, The Report’s grading initial assessment of companies’ efforts to mitigate systems; and, while large global firms (in most
metric assesses companies on their gender their environmental impact. We asked 11 questions instances) had some environmental systems in
policies and strategies. Women represent about that looked at impacts on the climate, at chemical place, firms headquartered in Australia and New
80% of global garment workers.15 Despite this, management practices, at water usage, the use of Zealand are largely trailing behind their international
gender-based discrimination in recruitment, sustainable fibres, the provision of take back and counterparts. It the hope of the Baptist World Aid
and sexual harassment, are widespread in the repair programs and finally, on whether companies Australia and Tearfund New Zealand research team
workplace. All countries in the Asia-Pacific report have completed an environmental impact (The Research Team) that benchmarking efforts
a gender pay gap. The gap is most significant in assessment. will spur progress on this critical issue.
Pakistan, India, and Sri-Lanka at 66.5%, 35.3%, and See page 51 for further information about this
30.3% respectively.16 While assessments of environmental systems will
not impact the grades awarded to companies in environmental benchmarking approach, including
Given the importance of women in the garment this year’s report, it is anticipated that they will a full list of questions asked and who the strongest
production workforce, and the widespread form a part of the grading system in future reports. performers were — according to preliminary
evidence of discrimination, best practice for research.
companies operating in the global fashion industry
should include specific policies on gender, and
strategies to mitigate discrimination and ill-
treatment of women in the supply chain.
The Report found that just over one fifth of
companies (22%) had a robust gender policy and
strategy, while a further 16% received partial credit.
In most cases these companies had a policy but
no clear strategy for implementation.
© ILO, via https://flic.kr/p/FH57fk
Benchmarking Environmental Performance
The Report has been a driver for continuous
improvement in labour rights management
systems in the global fashion supply chains for
five years. However, the authors acknowledge that
an ethical company goes beyond empowering
workers throughout their supply chain and paying
Workers unions at an International Womens Day event organized by Pakistan Workers’ Federation in 2016.
16EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
CONCLUDING REMARKS
Concluding Remarks The fashion industry employs 749,000 workers Around the world (in the state of California, the
The global fashion industry has potential to be in Cambodia, representing 59.7% of the total United Kingdom, and the European Union), various
a tremendous force for good. Its significance for manufacturing workforce and 5% of the government bodies have enacted legislation that
the nation of Cambodia powerfully illustrates this population.17 In 2015, the industry made up 11% requires companies to disclose what they’re doing
point. of the economy, contributed a full 2 percentage to address the risk of exploitation throughout
points to the nation’s 7% growth rate, and made their supply chains. The French and the Dutch
© ILO/Aaron Santos, via: https://flic.kr/p/hJWj2X
up a full 80% of the country’s total merchandise governments have gone a step further, calling for
exports.18 mandatory plans to address labour rights and
Minimum wages for garment workers have also environmental risks. The Australian government,
been increasing in Cambodia. From just US$62 inspired by the UK’s Modern Slavery Act, has
per month in 2012, garment worker wages have announced that it will adopt legislation by the end
increased to US$170 per month today.19 of 2018 (see more on page 29).
This brief case study illustrates how the global While this shift in expectations is welcome — and
fashion industry can fuel the growth of economies the progress made by the global fashion industry
and, at the same time, facilitate a road out of is commendable — consumers, companies, and
poverty for hundreds of thousands of people and governments can still do more to fight exploitation.
their families. Consumers should continue to preference those
However, Cambodia’s story also demonstrates companies doing the most to uphold the rights
that the global fashion industry drives oppression of workers in their supply chains, and call on
and exploitation. Achieving this wage increase those that aren’t to do better. Companies should
has not been without its costs, culminating in continue to strengthen their labour rights systems
deadly government crackdowns. On January 3, and ensure that workers — from farm to factory
2014, garment workers held a strike for improved — receive a living wage. And the Australian and
pay, ultimately leading to violence which left New Zealand governments should introduce
four people dead and dozens more injured and robust legislation requiring companies to publicly
imprisoned.20 More recently, new laws introduced report on the measures taken to address the risk
by the Cambodian Government have stifled union exploitation throughout their supply chains.
activity.21 The intention of The Report is to assist these
More and more across the global fashion efforts, and, in doing so, help the global fashion
industry, consumers, investors, and, increasingly, industry realise its potential to contribute to a
Ando International, a Vietnamese garment firm with 900
governments expect companies to ensure world free from poverty and exploitation.
workers in Ho Chi Min City, has improved significantly in
labour standards since joining Better Work Vietnam, a labour that they have systems in place to mitigate the
rights improvement initiative. exploitation of workers and uphold their rights.
172
Methodology
This section outlines the aims and scope of our
research, the process of data collection and
evaluation, and our company grading system.
18METHODOLOGY
This research provides a picture of ethical The Report does not directly grade companies
sourcing practices in the fashion industry on their environmental impact. The intent is that
Comment on non-responsive
environment impact will become a key metric for
as a resource for consumers, corporations, companies
grading in the future.
investors, and policymakers. Companies which are non-responsive,
In 2018, The Report covered 114 companies along with those that do not provide any
of varying sizes, across men’s, women’s, and substantive information, are indicated in
It seeks to empower consumers to make more children’s fashion and footwear. It is worth this report by an asterisk (*) next to their
informed and ethical choices in purchasing fashion emphasising that The Research Team do not name. These companies were also given the
and footwear, and provide insight into supply conduct site inspections of factories as part of opportunity to provide a short statement as
chain governance for investors. Its aim is to help their grading. Therefore, company grades are not to why they chose not to respond, and these
companies with benchmarking and learnings, as an assessment of actual conditions in factories and can be found on page 93.
well as identify issues for policymakers to address. farms, but rather an analysis of the strength of a
By presenting the performance of companies, We acknowledge that many of the non-
company’s labour rights systems. This research
relative to each other, via an A–F grading (updated responsive brands may be doing more to
relies on data that is publicly available, alongside
on an annual basis) the goal is to encourage improve their ethical sourcing than we have
evidence of systems and practices provided by
individual companies, and the industry as a whole, been able to assess them on. However, if
companies themselves.
to engage in constant improvement of their ethical brands do not disclose, or are unwilling to
sourcing practices. disclose, what they are doing to ensure that
Data collection and evaluation workers are not exploited in their supply
At a system level, The Research Team recognise As a proxy for the entire fashion supply chain, The chains, then it becomes almost impossible
the positive impact that the global fashion Report assesses a large selection of companies on for consumers and the public to know if
industry can have around the world. The goal is 33 specific criteria, at three critical stages of the these brands are investing sufficiently to
to contribute to ending worker exploitation and supply chain. mitigate these risks.
alleviating poverty in the developing countries
This tool has been developed with input from
where fashion is manufactured.
supply chain specialists, non-government
organisations (NGOs) and company experts. on suppliers. The research tool (and The Report)
Scope of the research Its criteria draws upon international standards, is now largely regarded as one of the leading
The Report classifies the fashion manufacturing including those articulated by the ILO, the benchmarks for the global fashion industry.
supply chain into three stages of production: final Sustainable Development Goals, and the United
stage, inputs stage, and raw materials stage — as Nation’s Guiding Principles for Business and In conducting a company evaluation, The Research
defined on on page 21. Across these three stages Human Rights. The tool evolves over time, as we Team assesses a company’s own publications
of production, this research considers four broad incorporate new learnings and reflect industry alongside any relevant independent reports and
themes of social responsibility: policies, knowing best practice. For example, this year included a data. The Research Team sends its findings —
suppliers, auditing/supplier relationships and question about gender policy and strategy, and marked against the assessment criteria — to the
worker voice — also defined on page 21. a question about publishing detailed information company for comment and further input, which
19METHODOLOGY
is reviewed in turn. The Research Team seeks
to engage with companies, collect evidence,
and understand their processes and systems;
however, the research team does not conduct site
inspections as part of the grading process.
Beyond engaging brands, The Research Team
also works with relevant certifiers to get a better
understanding of what systems are covered by
their certification. Where companies use these
certifications, information from the certification
body is considered in the process of the
company’s assessment. Certification bodies that
have been engaged with include Better Cotton
Initiative (BCI), the Global Organic Textile Standard
(GOTS), Fairtrade and Ethical Clothing Australia
© ILO/Sarah-Jane Saltmarsh, via: https://flic.kr/p/e5FqXm
(ECA).
The Research Team actively seeks to engage
companies (and pursue contact with non-
responsive companies) using at least three
different mediums: phone calls, emails, and letters.
All non-responsive companies receive the findings
twice by post. Letters are also mailed to the
company’s Board Chair and CEO. This process
seeks to ensure that in almost every instance
where a brand has not responded, it is because it
has intentionally chosen not to do so.
In 2018, 77% of brands have engaged directly with
this research process.
Smiling graduates of a Ready Made Garment Course, as part of a program that works towards reforming
technical and vocational education and training in Bangladesh.
20METHODOLOGY
What the research covers
Policies Transparency Auditing and Supplier Worker Empowerment
The research collects and evaluates data
and Traceability Relationships (and living wage)
from fashion companies using the following
classification of the supply chain and across the Why it matters: Policies Why it matters: In Why it matters: Monitoring Why it matters: For a labour
following themes of social responsibility. form the standards order to ensure that facilities and building rights system to improve
that brands want their worker rights are being relationships are critical to working conditions, workers
production to adhere upheld, brands need to ensuring policies are adhered must be empowered, allowed
to. They are the baseline know which facilities to and improvements in a voice, and have their most
RAW MATERIALS
by which a brand can are responsible for the working conditions are critical concerns addressed.
• Cotton (farming) measure the effectiveness production of their being delivered. While no It is workers themselves who
• Wool, etc (husbandry, of its overall efforts to product. monitoring process is perfect, have the best visibility of
uphold worker rights. high quality monitoring working conditions.
shearing etc) What we assess: How
helps to provide a better
• Crude Oil for synthetic What we assess: much of the supply What we assess: Whether
understanding of the
Provisions to prohibit chain a company has workers are able to unite
fibres, plastics, etc forced labour and child traced; what it does to
conditions of workers. A focus
through democratic trade
(extraction, refining) on strengthening relationships
labour, allow for freedom monitor and address unions; whether collective
allows trust building, and
of association and protect subcontracting; what bargaining agreements
increases a brand’s capacity
worker health and safety; efforts it is undertaking have been established;
to drive change.
whether a brand intends to trace the remainder of whether effective grievance
its policies to cover the its supply chain; a brand’s What we assess: What mechanisms are in place;
entire production process; transparency and how percentage of production whether workers are receiving
INPUTS PRODUCTION whether the brand is willing they are to be facilities are audited; whether a living wage so they can
undertaking important held accountable through unannounced and offsite support their families; a
• Textiles production
measures towards the information it shares worker interviews and brand’s efforts in moving
(ginning, spinning, knitting, improving working about it’s supply chain. anonymous worker surveys towards paying a living wage.
dying, embroidery) conditions in facilities. are used; whether checks are
• Leather (tanning) done on high risk activities
• Plastic (processing, moulding) like labour brokers and
recruitment fees; whether
the brand is willing to be
transparent about its results
and remedial actions; whether
brands are actively involved in
building supplier relationships
through consolidation,
FINAL STAGE PRODUCTION collaboration, supplier training
• Cut-Make-Trim (CMT) and long term relationship
manufacturing (cutting, sewing, building.
printing)
21METHODOLOGY
Data Verification Take, for example, the criteria relating to supplier of protecting intellectual property but, rather, as a
To verify the data provided by companies, lists and the criteria for living wage. In years past, protection measure for vulnerable workers.
company responses are reviewed and clarification partial credit has been awarded for publishing a In this instance, publishing a factory list may do
and supporting documentation are sought where supplier list, where a company has disclosed its more to undermine the welfare of workers, than to
necessary. In some instances, the audit data factories through the Bangladesh Accord on Fire enhance it. While this did not impact the grading
provided by companies is relied upon to verify and Building Safety. This year, however, in-line with process, in the interest of transparency, the
conditions and benefits that workers receive. prevailing industry best practice, no credit was company has allowed Baptist Word Aid to visit its
given unless the company made their supplier factory and to interview workers.
Wherever possible, The Research Team and
list publicly available, and suppliers were directly
company representatives work through the survey
traceable to the company (rather than to a group
questions, allowing both parties to be satisfied that
of companies, as is the case with the Bangladesh
Grading
the data presented is an accurate representation The grades awarded in this report are a measure
Accord on Fire and Building Safety).
of the company’s policies and processes. of the efforts undertaken by each company to
Similarly, in past reports, a partial credit on mitigate the risks of forced labour, child labour,
To ensure consistency in the assessment of
living wage was given to companies that were and worker exploitation throughout their supply
companies, after finalising company responses,
paying wages substantially above the minimum chains. Higher grades correspond to companies
survey responses are cross-checked.
wage. This year, no credit was awarded without with a labour rights management system that,
a company demonstrating that a supplier was if implemented well, should reduce the risk and
Increased Validation Requirements paying a living wage to entry level workers, as extent of worker exploitation in the production of
As part of this year’s research process, companies benchmarked against an adequate living wage that company’s products. Low graded companies
were provided with an Assessment Support methodology. are those that are not taking these initiatives, or
Document. The Assessment Support Document
The result is more robust data and, importantly, those choosing not to disclose if they are taking
acted as a helpful guide for companies,
a survey tool that is in-line with prevailing best such initiatives.
including a rationale for each survey question
practice across the global fashion industry. It is important to note that a high grade does not
and several examples of what constitutes a
However, it has also meant that the rating of some mean that a company has a supply chain which
strong labour rights system. The Assessment
companies (that, in previous years, would have is free from exploitation. Rather, it is an indicator
Support Documents also detailed the validation
been awarded at least partial credit for these of the efforts the company is undertaking and
requirements necessary for demonstrating that
survey responses) has been impacted. the strength of its systems to reduce the risk of
systems or policies asserted by companies to
be in place, were, indeed, in place. In several Finally, there is one company graded by The exploitation. Furthermore, The Report’s grading
instances, the level of supporting documentation Report which was not marked down for methodology is designed to spread companies
or validation requested was greater than in withholding the address of its final stage factory. out along an A–F continuum, based on the relative
previous reports. Additionally, in a few instances, Outland Denim intentionally employs former strength of their efforts — similar to awarding
the threshold necessary to receive credit for a victims of abuse and trafficking. It chooses to keep grades on a bell curve (i.e. the best performers
question was increased. the address of its factory secret, not as a means
22METHODOLOGY
receive A-range grades, the worst receive F
grades, with many others in the middle).
Some company structures own several brands
with differing labour rights management systems.
In these cases, The Report grades brands
separately. Individual brands corresponding to a
single company are listed, alongside their grade, in
the Brand Index on page 55.
Environmental Impact
This year, we collected preliminary data on the
industry’s efforts to manage environmental impact.
A full description of how the environmental
metrics were developed (including what questions
were asked and why) can be found on page 51.
While assessments of environmental systems will
not impact grades awarded to companies in The
© ILO/Aaron Santos, via https://flic.kr/p/hJVjSD
Report this year, it is anticipated that they will form
part of the grading system in future.
It is the hope of The Research Team that this will
spur companies to understand their impact on the
environment and take the actions necessary to see
their industry become sustainable.
Workers at Ando International, a Vietnamese garment firm.
233
Five Years since the
Rana Plaza Disaster
In this section we remember and reflect on the fifth
anniversary of the Rana Plaza Disaster – an event that
shone a light on the darkest parts of the Fashion Industry.
24FIVE YEARS SINCE THE RANA PLAZA DISASTER
Five years ago, a disaster of such magnitude flooding TV screens, that it began to take notice such as the number of workers, the proportion of
occurred that the course of the fashion industry and demand change. And through the combined male to female workers, or the types of products
action of various stakeholders — including being made.
was irreversibly changed. consumers, governments, garment workers, civil
society groups like Baptist World Aid Australia, Government Initiatives
On 24 April 2013, Rana Plaza collapsed in the and even fashion brands themselves — change In countries where worker protections are weak
Savar district of Dhaka, Bangladesh, claiming the is occurring. or non-existent, abuses such as forced labour,
lives of 1,134 people and injuring over 2,000 more. human-trafficking, and slavery are rife. Exploitation
Five years on, we seek to honour the lives lost in
The eight-storey building took just 90 seconds to exists at every stage of the global garment
these three tragedies and reflect on the progress
be reduced to rubble. industry supply chain.
that has been made.
Appallingly, this disaster followed the site’s Following the example set by California, the UK,
evacuation only the day prior due to structural Greater supply chain transparency and France; Baptist World Aid Australia worked
concerns — a result of dire overcrowding and Today’s supply chains are complex; and frequently, with others, including the Walk Free Foundation
poor (and illegal) construction. Despite this fact, global in nature. Without transparency, the task and Stop the Traffik, to campaign the Australian
garment workers were coerced into returning to of holding companies to account becomes Government for a law to fight slavery.
work on the day of the collapse. problematic. The collapse of Rana Plaza threw the There is now bipartisan commitment to introduce
Sadly, the Rana Plaza disaster was not an isolated need for increased transparency into the global modern slavery legislation into parliament by the
incident, but rather, the latest in a spate of similar spotlight. end of 2018. Additionally, earlier this year, the New
factory disasters. Exactly six months before, a fire According to Human Rights Watch, “supply chain South Wales State Parliament tabled Australia’s
ripped through the Tarzeen Fashion factory (also transparency — starting with publishing names, first Modern Slavery Bill.
in Bangladesh) killing 117 people. A month before addresses, and other important information
that, the Ali Enterprises fire in Pakistan claimed the Read more on page 29.
about factories producing for global apparel
lives of 254 more. companies— is a powerful tool to assert workers’
These tragedies mark a crucial turning point in human rights, advance ethical business practices,
Sector Initiatives
global consciousness of the labour rights issues in and build stakeholder trust”.22 Sector initiatives continue to drive change in
the fashion industry. the fashion industry, making it a safer and more
The proportion of companies publishing supplier equitable place of employment for people across
Until the Rana Plaza tragedy, few global fashion lists has doubled since the Rana Plaza disaster. the world. Some examples are:
companies chose to make information about their In 2013, just one sixth of companies that were
supply chains publicly available. Where clothes assessed were publishing supplier lists; in The 2018 • Asia Floor Wage Alliance (active since 2005)
were made, and the conditions they were made in, Report, the proportion is one third. Furthermore, — an international alliance of trade unions and
was, largely, invisible to the world. of those publishing information, almost half are labour rights activists who are working together
going beyond providing names and addresses for to demand garment workers are paid a living
But the global community was so horrified by wage.23 Given that 43 million garment workers
factories and are publishing detailed information
the news reported in papers and by the pictures
25FIVE YEARS SINCE THE RANA PLAZA DISASTER
are employed in the Asia-Pacific region,24 this is • a five year legally binding agreement between Earlier this year, a major settlement was reached
an important initiative. brands and trade unions to ensure a safe resulting in a US$2.3million payout to fix issues at
• Action, Collaboration, Transformation Initiative working environment in the Bangladeshi over 150 garment factories across Bangladesh.28
(ACT Initiative) — a collaboration between 17 garment industry; Unions responded positively to this settlement,
fashion brands and retailers, manufacturers, • an independent inspection program supported saying that it was proof that the Accord was
and trade unions to address the issue of living by brands incorporating workers and trade serving its purpose.29
wages in the textile and garment supply chain.25 unions; With the end of the Accord’s five-year term
Participating brands include Kmart, Next, Inditex, • public disclosure of all factories, inspection approaching, it was announced in June 2017 that
and H&M. reports, and corrective action plans (CAPs); the agreement would be extended for a further
• Better Work — a partnership between the United three years. However, a report published by the
• a commitment by signatory brands to ensure Bangladesh Investors Initiative found that only
Nations, the International Finance Corporation, sufficient funds are available for remediation and
and the ILO, which brings diverse groups 53 of the 220 current Accord signatories have
to maintain sourcing relationships; signed on to the 2018 Accord, causing significant
together — governments, global brands, factory
owners, and unions and workers — to improve • democratically elected health and safety concerns about the effectiveness of the project
working conditions in the garment industry.26 committees in all factories to identify and act on moving forward.30 This includes a number of
A recent independent study on the effectiveness health and safety risks; and well-known Australian brands operating in
of the program demonstrated that aggregate Bangladesh.31
• worker empowerment through an extensive
non-compliance rates have decreased, indicating training program, complaints mechanism and
improving working conditions in factories.27 right to refuse unsafe work.
Since its establishment, 2096 factories have been
Case Study: Bangladesh Fire and Safety inspected under the Accord program. 96 of these
Accord – the Last Five Years. have been terminated for failure to comply with
The Bangladesh Fire and Safety Accord was Accord standards, 1631 factories are currently
established in May 2013 in response to the Rana covered under the Accord program with pending
Plaza collapse. The Accord is an independent, CAPs, and the remaining 369 factories are either
legally binding agreement between brands and closed, transferred, or still awaiting inspection.
unions, designed to work towards a safe and While a substantial amount of remediation is
healthy Bangladeshi Garment industry. It has been occurring under the Accord program, the most
signed by over 200 companies from Europe, North recent data demonstrates that 72.9% of CAPs
America, Asia, and Australia. remain behind schedule. Only 1.5% of factories
The Accord Agreement consisted of six key have fully completed their CAP, 6% have completed
components: their initial CAP, and a further 8.4% are proceeding
on track.
26You can also read
