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For more inspiration and specific information, see: MySwitzerland.com Snowshoeing high above the Engadin lake plateau. © Filip Zuan
Grüezi. MOUNTAIN W Explore the majestic elcome to the mountains! We mountain Swiss Alps. hares just love winter. It’s our favourite 04–17 time of year because there’s nothing we like better than diving head first into the powdery snow, our white coats disappearing against the pristine white background. To give you an idea of what my Swiss winter is like, WATER After a day on the slopes, I have tracked down some stories for you and put relax in warm water. them down on paper in this magazine. You come 18–27 to play in the mountains, but also in wonderful peaceful refuges, where you can immerse your feet in warm water and relax after a long day in the snow. For those who prefer to stay warm indoors, HOUSE I’ve also visited a number of spectacular buildings Discover Switzerland’s and watched some of my friends as they busy diverse architecture. themselves in their workshops. I hope you will get 28–39 a good impression of the country surrounding my burrow. Who knows, maybe we’ll see each other soon – perhaps after a fondue, a rösti or a glass of mulled wine under the stars? I’d really like that! PEOPLE See you soon! Be amazed by traditional crafts and fabulous cooking. Peter 40–51 CONCIERGE Always at your service as you travel in Switzerland. 53–66
M O U N TA I N When the Alps wrap up for winter, covering their slopes in a bright white coat, the time has come to make your mark in the fresh powder snow. A n d e r m at t Summiteer 6 Girls on top 11 S aa s - F e e The very first skier 12 Skiing like in days gone by 14 D av o s Where the best-known freestylers learned their skills 17 Switzerland. № 02
A n d e r m at t Summiteer Steep, long and extreme: professional mountaineer Caro North likes a challenge. She’s at home in the mountains in summer or winter and is happy to share her enthusiasm with others. S he is young and impetuous, and her cheerful enthusiasm is quite infectious. When you meet Caro North for the first time, magical moments happen, like when she was recently making an ascent from Andermatt, doggedly placing one ski in front of the other there’s just one thing you’ll want to do: join through an impenetrable wall of fog, while her in climbing the next peak. The 29-year- thousands of snowflakes fell from the sky. old seems to have stored up all the energy that Suddenly the fog cleared. Before her stood the mountains provide inside her. the summit peak and a glistening wall of rock just waiting for her to climb it. “That was just She spent a lot of time with her parents in La incredible,” she admits. Tzoumaz, a small village in the Valais, took M O U N TA I N her first ski tour at the age of 12, climbed al- Caro prefers to share these moments with most to the top of the highest mountain in other touring companions – she rarely ven- South America at 16 and completed the as- tures into the mountains on her own, partly cent of the north face of the Eiger before her for safety reasons. Just over a year ago, she 23rd birthday. One of her greatest adven- was inducted into the male-dominated Swiss tures, however, was when she climbed Cerro Mountain Guide Association as a certified Torre in Patagonia as part of the first all-fe- mountain guide. This was a major achieve- male team to make the ascent, opening up 55 ment for Caro, whose goal in life is not to previously unknown climbing routes in this climb as many mountains as possible alone, part of South America. but to pass on her passion and knowledge. Caro North now travels the world as a mem- But there is one adventure still on her bucket ber of the Mammut pro team of athletes. She list: the Marinelli Couloir on the Dufour- always returns to Switzerland in the winter spitze. This mountain in the Monte Rosa months. Last season, Andermatt became her massif is the highest peak in Switzerland at home, where she climbed through the 4,634 metres, and the descent to Macugnaga snow-covered landscape on numerous tours with a gradient of up to 50 degrees never with skiers to “play with nature”. Her play- seems to end – 2,420 vertical metres through ground is certainly big enough: the Alps ac- the highest rock face in the Swiss Alps. It’s count for 60% of the country’s territory, with just the kind of thing Caro loves. 48 impressive 4,000-metre peaks and over 1,000 official ski and snowboard tours. Caro loves Switzerland for its easy access to the Al- pine terrain and its perfect mix of snow, ice and rock: “You can take an easy ski tour on the south side and then climb a north face on the other.” Although she is a lot better at Here’s a selection climbing than skiing, things wouldn’t be half of ski tours to suit as exciting without winter. That’s when every level.
7 “I’m not interested in dominating nature – I want to play with it. Conquering mountains is not a term in my mountaineering vocabulary.” Caro North, mountain guide
Nothing is ever steep enough: Caro North loves a challenge, even in the familiar moun- tains of Andermatt.
The descent after a climb is always the crowning moment of a tour for Caro North. Girls on top It wasn’t all that long ago that women were not permitted to climb mountains, and female climbers are still in the minority today. Here’s a short history lesson with a few anecdotes. I talian Félicité Carrel would have made it into the mountaineering hall of fame if her skirt hadn’t got in the way: in 1867, she would Red Indian” wasn’t enough to dissuade from her fascination with the sport. Finally, in 1907, she founded the first mountaineering have been the first woman to make it to the club for women in London. top of the Matterhorn. In those days, women Eleven years after this club was established, were forbidden from wearing trousers, and women also became active in Switzerland, those who didn’t stick to the rules faced trou- and the Swiss Women’s Alpine Club was ble from the police. Thus Félicité Carrel’s founded. The women actually wanted to join skirt repeatedly got in the way because of the the men in the SAC, but their overtures were wind when climbing the Matterhorn and al- rejected. It took until 1980 before the SAC most tore her off the mountain. She was members changed their minds. It would take forced to cut her climb short. British climber another six years before Nicole Niquille be- 11 Lucy Walker had better luck and faced less came the first woman in Switzerland to be- wind in 1871. Despite her skirt she became come a certified mountain guide. And that the first woman to make it to the top. was only because she registered as a man. Female mountaineers were regarded with These days, the Swiss Mountain Guide Asso- disapproval by many at the time. After all, ciation numbers 1,300 male guides and 38 their days should have been filled with work. female guides, one of whom is Caro North. They shouldn’t have had time for leisure ac- tivities, and certainly not for such a manly sport. Nonetheless, there were always women who ignored the nay-sayers and who made a place for themselves in the annals of moun- taineering. Mammut Alpine School Elizabeth Main was one of these. From the In 2008, Mammut became the first and only 1880s onwards, she mainly spent the winter outdoor sports company to found its own months in the Engadin. Early each morning mountaineering school. It offers a wide range she would steal out of her hotel to climb the of training courses and tours in Switzerland snowy peaks. She also took part in several and the Alps. The focus is on the transfer of first winter ascents, such as the ascent of the knowledge. two peaks of Piz Palü, which, by the way, she also climbed later one summer with an all-fe- male team. Even a message from her great- Find reliable aunt to say “Stop her climbing mountains, mountain guides for she is scandalising all London and looks like a tours in the Alps.
M O U N TA I N
You can still go skiing using vintage equipment at least once a year. S aa s - F e e 13 The very first skier W ho invented skiing? The Swiss of course! But who exactly? Father Johann Josef Im- village. He hosted tourists in his rectory and acted as a mountain guide, taking them on hiking seng. At least according to the lo- tours. Later he even campaigned cals around Saas-Fee. When the for the construction of the first priest received a call for help in hotels in the valley. the winter of 1849, he did not As tourism took hold in Saas- hesitate for long, putting on his Fee, the success story of Swiss hiking boots and tying them to skiing slowly picked up speed. In two wooden slats before setting 1888, Norwegian polar explorer off for Saas-Grund. He thus went Fridtjof Nansen crossed Green- down in Swiss history as the in- land on a pair of skis. Christoph ventor of skiing. The people of Iselin from Glarus read the report Saas-Fee didn’t know that the of his adventure with interest Scandinavians could already look and then organised a race at the back on a thousand years of ski- Pragel Pass. He wanted to pres- ing history back then – after all, ent the Telemark skis and show even the Norwegians were in the that the wooden slats used by the dark about this. Around 1800, Swiss could not be beaten. A they thought they had created short time later, he founded the something entirely new with the first ski club, the Ski Club Glarus, Telemark ski. However, evidence and organised Switzerland’s first of the first skiers can be traced as ski race in 1902. The Swiss far back as the Stone Age. The Ski Association was founded oldest remains were found in 11 years later. Today the associa- bogs in Scandinavia, such as the tion bears the name “Swiss-Ski” Kalvträsk ski in Sweden, which and has trained several world dates back to 3200 BC. and Olympic champions. The Although the parish priest of Swiss may not have invented ski- Saas-Fee did not invent skiing, he ing, but they certainly know how certainly brought tourism to the to win medals with it.
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A little fun is the key: at the y& Nostalski race in Toggenburg. Skiing like in days gone by Skiing has changed, skis have become faster, and ski suits have become sportier. If you find yourself longing for times gone by, you will find there are a few places that allow you to relive historic ski practices. H e’s one of the best skiers of all time: Didier Cuche. He proved this with his 21victories, five of them in Kitzbühel, on the hard- est World Cup course in the world. It was not surprising, then, that Conquering the bottoms and, occasionally, at great speed, the racers on their wooden skis descend the Hasler the King of Kitzbühel, as he was called, chose this descent as his last. slopes on barrel staves slope on Lenk’s dedicated wooden However, he did not complete his last descent in the usual close-fit- Barrel stave races are held all over ski days. A tip from a seasoned ting ski suit and with well-polished and waxed skis, but instead Switzerland every winter. participant: bend your knees, then chose a chic nostalgic outfit. Clad in a cap, jacket, mountain boots and you won’t have any problems. wooden skis, he made his way to the start line and negotiated the last steep finishing slope, including a ski somersault, even if his legs were shaky and not quite as fast as usual. Hats off to him, because, as we Endurance athletes in Davos know, you have to be a great skier to manage old-fashioned wooden One of the first descents discov- A stiff upright stance skis. If you’d like to try this out for yourself, you’ll find that Switzer- ered by skiers was from the peak is not an option on the Pizol land has a whole host of nostalgic races on offer. of the Weissfluh down to Küblis. The choice of whether to use a The nostalgic descent follows this crooked wooden stick or two old 12-kilometre route. Information ski poles is entirely up to you. The 15 the ski instructors dust off their panels are provided along the en- competition is divided into vari- best 19th-century costumes, tire route, offering an insight into ous categories on the Pizol: tele- The nostalgia junkies strap old wooden skis to their the history of skiing in Davos. mark, cable tie attachment, with of Kandersteg hiking boots and ski down the hill or without plastic coating. Kandersteg has dedicated not in their usual expert manner. just a nostalgic ski race, but also a Some time ago, guests decided to whole week to the Belle Epoque. leave the old-fashioned skis to the Wooden ski The village turns back the clock 80s forever in Arosa instructors, preferring instead to aficionados in Adelboden to 1913, with a nostalgic atmos- People don’t delve so far into the enjoy the spectacle from the sides Every year, skiers gather on the phere and activities from days past in Arosa, and some of them of the slope, where they can enjoy Engstligenalp in historical cos- gone by. find themselves stuck in the a great view of the show. tumes and with old wooden skis 1980s. It still makes for a colour- for the Hickorywedeln event. ful sight for spectators and adds Hickory is a North American nut to the fun for those taking part. tree whose wood was used in the All-rounders in Toggenburg The charm of Valais The one rule is that everyone has manufacture of skis until well It is becoming an established tra- in Rosswald to use wooden skis, even if their into the 20th century and lends dition that each spring those with The nostalgic race takes place in costume isn’t necessarily ideal for its name to this fun event. a taste for wistful nostalgia slip March in the Rosswald ski area skiing. into old ski equipment, strap ven- above Brig. Speed doesn’t take top erable skis onto their feet and priority; it’s elegance on the launch themselves from the Wol- slopes that’s most important. Stem turns allowed zenalp in the hope of staying more Naturally wooden skis and origi- in Andermatt Combining skiing and or less upright until they reach nal clothing from 1920 are de Lace-up leather shoes and sledding in Grächen the valley below. The stopovers in rigeur. wooden skis without a steel edge The nostalgic race on the Hannig the ski huts – where darts are are not for everyone: only experi- alp above Grächen is a two-per- played and nails are hammered enced skiers make it down the son affair: one on a sled and the into logs – really pack a punch. piste in Andermatt without a other on old skis. The clock stops Hunting for the past stem turn. once both competitors have in Obwalden crossed the finishing line. The locals in Obwalden like to re- The well-dressed member the glories of the past ski instructors in Bellwald too. On the Mörlialp near Giswil, Bringing artistry to The end of the ski season in Bell- men and women try to cross the the slopes in Lenk wald is marked in quite an unu- finish line still on both skis – Sometimes shaky, sometimes sual way. Every Easter Saturday, which is easier said than done. backwards, sometimes on their
The Swiss Snow Playground is the ideal envi- ronment for developing a feel for winter sports 16 in a playful and relaxed way. Based on an originally American model, the success rate 4 for newcomers – no matter whether adults or 8 10 5 9 1 children – is remarkably high. And, what’s 17 11 12 more, the focus is on fun: the play area is flat, 2 15 7 14 3 6 divided off from the main slope and features 13 a variety of snow elements, providing a safe place to try out new tricks. This season, there will be a Swiss Snow Playground at 17 different 1 Arosa 6 Corvatsch-Pontresina 11 Savognin 16 Wildhaus Swiss ski schools. Why not pay us a visit? 2 Bellwald 7 Crans-Montana 12 St. Moritz 17 Zweisimmen 3 Bettmeralp 8 Davos 13 Verbier 4 Braunwald 9 Lenzerheide 14 Vercorin 5 Brigels 10 Meiringen-Hasliberg 15 Villars swiss-ski-school.ch/en
17 D av o s Where the best-known freestylers learned their skills D avos has always attracted free spirits. The fa- come to the youth hostel in Davos, which, like its Youthpalace mous wooden sled was born here, the world’s counterparts in Grindelwald, St. Moritz and Laax, Davos youth hostel first T-bar lift went into operation here in 1934 has the ideal infrastructure for sports camps. The The Davos Open in February and, in the 1980s, freestylers found a new home in club has been encouraging new young talent in the The superpipe in Bolgen is Davos. At the time, the Jakobshorn was the only lowlands since the 1980s. Down in the basement of where the big names of mountain on which they were allowed to use the the youth hostel, the kids will find plenty of room to the Swiss snowboarding scene began their careers. lifts. These days, beginners and professionals alike wax their snowboards in preparation for the snow, gather in the Jatzpark to practice their tricks. The while food is served on the ground floor to keep Drop-in: find out mountain village is one big playground for up-and- their strength up and the upper floors contain more about the young coming talents in particular. For example, the chil- warm beds where they can rest and recover for the freestylers and the dren from the Iceripper Snowboard Club in Zurich next day and dream about their sporting idols. youth hostel.
WAT E R After a long day in the soft snow and having filled their lungs with fresh mountain air, those in the know will relax in a bath of warm water drawn from the depths of the Swiss mountains. Baden In search of restoring lost health 20 Water – nature’s miracle 22 Relaxation in a warm thermal bath 24 Switzerland. № 02
Take the waters 19th century-style at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz. WATER
Baden In search of restoring lost health Spa culture in Switzerland I n secluded spots, hidden away from the prying eyes of the authorities, young people would meet in small bathhouses in the 19th century, where they savoured the good life. Life in the spa resorts was truly vibrant. Many marriage proposals took place here, as did heated political debate. The canton of Basel-Landschaft is said to have been born in the pleasant thermal spring waters of Bad Bubendorf. While the burgeoning small bathing resorts were a thorn in the side of the church, things were more relaxed in the higher-profile spa towns. Only the WAT E R upper classes could afford a three- to five-week course of treatment here. In search of a restorative regime, they travelled from all over Europe, bringing parts of their household and even their pets with them. During this heyday, which would last until the 20th century, the thermal baths became spas, each one offering a specific treatment for a particular disease, even tuberculosis. But people had discovered the healing powers of thermal baths long before this. Roman legionnaires came across hot springs around 2,000 years ago in modern-day Baden, which is how the Roman settlement of Aquae Helveticae came into being. Hot springs also surfaced in other areas of what is now Swit- zerland, but the source in Baden is one of the most important and, something the Romans did not know then, one of the hottest and most mineral-rich of Switzerland’s thermal springs. The First World War brought an abrupt end to the thriving spa culture: the spa resorts were repurposed to accommodate troops or as internment camps for prisoners of war. Spa culture was never really the same after this, and the social aspect disappeared, while swimming became a mass sport. Medical spas managed to survive, however. Today, spas are enjoying a revival. Ther- mal baths, like those in Baden, where a whole spa quarter is currently grow- ing, look set to become meeting places once again. We are witnessing a return to the times when young people would meet, and marriage proposals and po- litical discussion were the order of the day here.
Bathing fashions in the Roman Empire in the Middle Ages at the end of the 19th century 21 around 1930 around 1900 around 1920 from 1946 onwards around 1980 around 2020 The rediscovery of the bikini
? 350 mineral springs were known to Water – nature’s Swiss Federal Council Member Stefano miracle Franscini in 1848. A warm bath on an icy winter’s day is a blessing for the soul and a miracle cure for the body: it relaxes muscles and joints, lowers blood pressure and relieves agitation and exhaustion. Because the water creates buoyancy, you feel light as a feather and pain subsides. When min- erals are added to the mix, the magic remedy for a variety of ailments reaches perfection. Saltwater baths: regulate the vegetative nervous trains the muscles and relieves system and are prescribed for skin the joints at the same time; used rashes, rheumatism, allergies, and for arthritis and osteoporosis. respiratory and joint disorders. Oxygen baths / whirlpool baths: Sulphur baths: increase tactile sensory percep- relieve pain in degenerative joint tions by stimulating the skin; disorders and chronic poly relaxes, invigorates and stimulates arthritis, but also inhibit skin blood circulation. diseases such as acne, neuroder- matitis or psoriasis. Radon baths: reduce inflammation and Cold baths: pain in rheumatic disorders. reduce blood flow to the skin by withdrawing heat, and inhibit Alternating hot WAT E R pain, for example at the joints; and cold baths: often used in combination restore vegetative balance with subsequent physiotherapy. in situations of stress and overload, and stimulate Carbon dioxide baths: the cardiovascular system. stimulate the blood supply to the skin, which widens the blood Hot baths: vessels, relieves stress on the improve insulin resistance heart and is good for the kidneys. (at least 12 minutes at 39°C); circulatory resistance decreases, Physiotherapy baths: heart rate increases. effective cardio, circulatory and breath training, because the water Peat baths: pressure pushes the diaphragm have a soothing effect on upwards; the water resistance also inflammations of the skin. There’s one ingredient in the magic formula of hot water and minerals that shouldn’t be for- gotten: the special atmosphere. Treatment takes place far from home in an unfamiliar climate and setting, giving rise to new contacts and making some stays all the happier. It was already recognised back in the 19th century that taking time out for treatment frees you from everyday cares: the aim is that patients should recover both physically and mentally.
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The outdoor swim- ming pool of the hotel The Alpina Gstaad is the perfect place for a physiotherapy session. Relaxation in a warm thermal bath The Romans showed us the way, relaxing in the thermal springs. They definitely would have felt at home in today’s spas – 25 especially given the wide selection on offer. practised since 1836. The thermal Bathing like the Romans bench on the banks of the River Lim- While the excavators are still working mat is a place where young and old away on the construction site to re- meet to dip their feet in the warm store the spa landscape in Baden, thermal water after a long walk or a there are many places where the ther- Saturday visit to the market. mal waters are already flowing. At Incidentally: in the old days, the trip Hotel Blume, the hotel’s own thermal to Baden to take the waters was spring water arrives from the depths known by the name “Badenfahrt”. This custom is still celebrated in style in Baden every five to ten years. t From wooden barrels to the rooftop A quartzite thermal temple During the Reformation, puritanical At a temperature of 30 degrees and spiritual leader Zwingli rejected ther- containing a large proportion of cal- mal baths in Zurich, which is why cium and magnesium, half of the wa- people travelled to Baden to relax. ter from St. Peter’s spring flows into The mineral water from the Aqui the 7132 Thermal Baths and Spa in source was only used many years Vals. The other half is used to produce later, and today you can bathe in the Vals mineral water. It’s not just the huge wooden barrels of the former thermal waters that pervade body at a temperature of 47 degrees; next Hürlimann brewery in Zurich, then and soul, but also the monolithic door you’ll find the Limmathof, climb to the roof to enjoy a fabulous building made of blocks of Vals where the spa tradition has been view of the city. quartzite stone.
æ casks again, for example in the Yeti Mineral bath Alpine huts in Grindelwald. Al- More than 20 mineral springs con- though this used to be a solitary ex- join in Bogn Engiadina in Scuol. The perience, most barrels are big enough Luzius spring is one of these and is for two. The scent of wet wood en- the only alkaline sodium sulphate sures an even more intense sensory spring in the Alpine region. The journey. baths are not a thermal bath, but a mineral bath, since the water is no warmer than 20 degrees. í A long trip x The natural mineral content in Leuk- recommended that people should erbad is high, as the water takes at Conditions like the Dead Sea bathe in it and drink Valtellina wine, least 40 years to reach the surface The hot spring was discovered by ac- other doctors and scholars, as well as here. The calcium sulphate concen- cident in Zurzach in 1914 while sink- the sick and infirm, also began to tration is particularly good for reliev- ing an exploratory well, but was make their way to the Engadin. ing rheumatic conditions. ò promptly capped again as the miners When the first sanatorium was built were in search of other mineral re- in 1864, spa tourism blossomed in sources. It was not until 1955 that St. Moritz and throughout the Enga- Curative granite bathtubs people bathed in the first hut. These din. When you take the waters in the The Craveggia baths are located on days, you can float on the intensive Ovavera baths, you will find yourself the border between Italy and Swit- salt waters in Bad Zurzach just like in diving into the past, in your mind at zerland. The former sanatorium has the Dead Sea. least. been restored as part of the “Fron- ü tiera di acqua e di pace” cross-border project. Now you can step into one of the two new granite tubs and enjoy A village wellness refuge nature’s healing powers, just like the Although Gstaad does not have any aristocrats who came here in their thermal springs, the village in the carriages and were carried along the Bernese Oberland has become a cen- WAT E R last rough section by the mountain tre of wellness. The various hotels of- farmers of the Valle Onsernone. fer their own wellness programmes. Caesar could only have dreamt of the possibilities on offer in the hotel The Alpina Gstaad. p The grand old lady h The Grand Resort Bad Ragaz feeds Salt of the earth its thermal baths from the nearby The salt water found in Rheinfelden Tamina Gorge. As early as the is one of the strongest natural saline 16th century, renowned physician sources in Europe. Rising from a Paracelsus enthused about the cura- depth of around 200 metres, it is tive properties of the water emerging pumped into the Riburg salt works from the spring at a temperature of near Rheinfelden and piped directly 36.5 degrees. The venerable 19th-cen- to the Rheinfelden resort, where it tury Helena Bath is just the place to provides relaxation as a cascade or forget the cares of the day. whirlpool. s w The origins of spa tourism Bask in a cask When renowned physician Para- Instead of the tin or ceramic baths The best spas in celsus investigated the spring in used from the 19th century onwards, Switzerland – St. Moritz in the 16th century and people can now bathe in wooden an overview. Share a wooden tub for two in the Ischboden mountain hut above Grindelwald.
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HOUSE If you’ve lived in the wild mountains for thousands of years, you’ll learn how to make yourself comfortable in winter. That’s why spending the winter in our timber houses is a cosy pleasure with a wealth of tales to tell. Let the summer wait another few weeks. Zuort Welcome refuge 30 G s t aa d Design in snow and ice 32 St. Gallen Apothecary for the soul 36 Switzerland. № 02
Zuort: a hamlet at the end of Val Sinestra. HOUSE
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You’ve arrived: Peter Robert Berry IV at Hof Zuort. Zuort Welcome refuge This is the story of Hof Zuort, where authenticity, modesty and peacefulness are not just part of life, but actively celebrated. A story of people and their longings, for refuge and for homecoming. W hen you step into the clearing at the end of Val Sinestra for the first time you’ll find yourself rubbing your eyes in as- house rules issued by famous Dutch conduc- tor Willem Mengelberg. The latter is the source of many tales about this place. tonishment. There, under the snowy peaks of Mengelberg also fell in love with the place the Lower Engadin and surrounded by the over 100 years ago. Starting in 1910, he had dense spruce and larch forest, you’ll find a Ba- the chalet and chapel built next to the farm varian-style inn, a spacious chalet and a small and turned the place into a summer residence wooden chapel that wouldn’t look out of place for himself and his musicians. After the Sec- in Norway. Zuort is the name of the home- ond World War, Zuort became his permanent stead above the village of Vnà, at 1,700 me- tres above sea level. A place that enchants you residence, where he enjoyed music, good ci- 31 gars and the joys of life in good company until almost as soon as you first set foot in the fresh his death in 1951. If you spend the night in snow. A place that radiates an incredible the chalet today, you cannot help sense of peace and contentedness. but immerse yourself in Mengel- And a place that many people seek- berg’s world. You’ll find his books ing refuge have fallen in love with. in the library. His sheet music can The same is true of Peter Berry. be found in the living room. And Or, to use his full name, Peter Rob- Mengelberg’s personal conductor’s ert Berry IV, the doctor from tailcoat still hangs in the closet. St. Moritz who not only followed in Owner Peter Berry is keen to main- his father’s, grandfather’s and tain this idyllic balance between great-grandfather’s professional idealism and reality, so that the Hof footsteps, but, like his ancestors, Zuort remains what it used to be: a happily exchanged his white coat place of refuge. for the apron of an artist or, in his case, a host. An advertisement reading “Hunting lodge for sale in an enchanted valley” sparked his curi- osity ten years ago. He was rewarded with “a little piece of the Engadin that my grandfa- ther and great-grandfather would still recog- nise”. In contrast to the material luxury of The house in the St. Moritz, Peter Berry found the seclusion of Zuort offered a unique calmness, mindful- ness and simplicity. This may not have been wilderness the contrast he was looking for, but it was certainly what his soul needed. “Come and visit us. We’ve got nothing,” are the apposite Seclusion in Val Sinestra words he frequently uses. The wooden chapel in Zuort Relax after a sauna in This nothingness needed to be protected, the fragrant hay. and Peter Berry has restored the house to its original state. Many of the old features re- A walk through main: the wood panelling in the parlour, the Val Sinestra antique washbasins in the bedrooms, the and Hof Zuort.
From the jacuzzi through the open igloo roof you can look staight up into the starry sky. G s t aa d Design in snow and ice This is a transient work of art that is built from scratch in Saaners- loch every year: Gstaad’s Igloo Village. The rough shaping of the shell is followed by a great deal of precision work during the interior design stage. All in all, a very special kind of designer dwelling. A ll 13 rooms are individually designed – some of them ornately embellished, others featuring clean geometric lines. The always on the move, as are the staff members. The entire building sinks by up to 1.5 metres during a season, which is why the installa- one thing that all the rooms have in common tions constantly have to be checked and ad- is that each bed is built on ice. Several layers justed. The light switches have to be con- of insulation ensure that sleepers stay cosy stantly repositioned to keep them within easy and the beds themselves do not melt away. reach. The wooden door frames also need to HOUSE The room temperature is around the freezing be adjusted to the changing conditions and point, but you won’t feel this while snuggled are anchored in vertical slots to keep pace up in your thick sleeping bags. When it comes with the dynamic movement of the igloo. Toi- to comfort, this igloo village has little in com- let bowls have to be repositioned again and mon with genuine Inuit dwellings. Every ig- again and, so that it remains possible to walk loo has an electric light and even a USB socket upright, the caretakers regularly reshape the as standard. ceilings. The romantic suite takes things even further. These idiosyncratic buildings only stop mov- It offers direct access to a 40-degree jacuzzi, ing late in spring. That’s when thousands of also housed in an igloo. This is able to with- hours of work melt away and become one stand the rising steam since most of the heat with the blooming alpine meadows. But only is allowed to escape through a hole in the ceil- for a few months, because in November it will ing. Guests in the other room categories can be that time of year once again. Winter also get a taste of this luxury; since there is 2020/21 should be a special one, since the another jacuzzi, this one available to all, in Igloo Village Gstaad is celebrating its the open air. Against the panoramic backdrop 15th birthday. Warm beds, cold drinks: of the Alps, the sky constantly ignites in an everything is covered. impressive firework of colour. The igloos are Bar & An entire igloo land- restaurant scape of bedrooms 5 4 3 2 1 with or without en-suite toilets as well as a restaurant lie hidden 6 7 8 9 10 11 under a huge pile of Sauna snow. A sauna and Event jacuzzi round off the romance of igloo living. Pool
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1.1.2021 12 a.m. N 46° 29 E 7° 20 Star map Just as a big city is divided into districts, so the starry sky is di- vided into star fields with 88 con- stellations. Some of the actual constellations themselves have been handed down from an tiquity and even then helped peo- ple to navigate by the stars and thus keep their bearings here on Earth. 35 A house in the snow Saanerslochgrat mountain station There’s no need to take a picture of the night sky, as Stay up top as the it’s something you’re unlikely to forget. mountains light up In the morning, you can almost in the evening. convince yourself that you can hear the sun tickling the snow. Good night: cuddle up Dive deeper into in your double-room this fascinating igloo just for two. story.
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Like a giant treasure chest, the Abbey Library of St. Gallen preserves precious historical artefacts. St. Gallen Apothecary for the soul 37 T he world was in turmoil when the Irish monk Gallus arrived in a forested area near played his part in making music more and more important. His works, along with 2,000 other Lake Constance in 612. The peo- original manuscripts and ple had enough of war and battle. 170,000 printed books, are All they wanted was peace and a guarded by the Abbey Library as little happiness. During this time, precious treasures, the oldest of Gallus built a small monastic set- their kind in Switzerland. tlement in the middle of what When you pass through the great was then a wilderness, but which door into the baroque hall and soon grew into one of the most take a few steps across the creak- important cultural centres in Eu- ing wooden floor, you will imme- rope, the city of St. Gallen. diately understand why this li- To capture their ideas for happi- brary, together with the entire ness and eternal life, the monks abbey precinct, was declared a spent hours in the library, the UNESCO World Heritage site in “apothecary for the soul”, as is still 1983. It is a total work of art from written in Greek lettering above floor to ceiling. You can smell his- the entrance to the Abbey Library tory hanging in the air among the of St. Gallen today. A number of old parchments and bindings. creative monks from this place of Nowhere else is the period from healing for the soul went down in 700 to 1100 AD as thoroughly cultural history. For example, the documented as in the Abbey Li- poet Notker Balbulus, who is brary and archive in St. Gallen. comparable to the Bob Dylan of You can imagine how Notker, in a our time. While Dylan is one of demonstration of great patience the most influential musicians of and care, put each letter down on the 20th century, Balbulus of his parchment in order to record Toggenburg is one of the most his thoughts for posterity. These important spiritual poets of me- thoughts covered concepts and diaeval Latin literature. His songs desires, such as justice and char- were sung all over Europe, and he ity, that are still relevant today.
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An insight into the treasure trove A SELECTION OF OBJECTS The St. Gallen Globe scripts to be enriched with annotations and A globe is like a three-dimensional book. comments. When the stylus is used to scratch Made shortly after 1571, the St. Gallen Globe a message directly into the parchment, it also has its own stories to tell. For example, it gives the text a personal touch. can provide an insight into the time it was made and the way people viewed the world The most important manuscript back then. A map of the sky was drawn on The Nibelungen manuscript dates back to the the globe, so that the stars and planets can be 13th century and is the most important man- seen as well as the continents. For example, uscript in German mediaeval literature. Ex- Abrogans in the Pacific Ocean you can see the constel- tremely well preserved, it offers a unique col- This is considered the oldest extant book in lation of the serpent-bearer. Historical lection of Middle High German epic poems of the German language. The glossary contains events like the sea battle of Lepanto are heroes and knights, and, in addition to the approximately 3,670 Old High German shown, as well as fearsome monsters and Nibelungenlied, also includes Wolfram von words and was named after the first entry masterly portraits of scholars and astron Eschenbach’s “Parzival” and “Willehalm” and “abrogans”, which means “modest or hum- omers. Then there’s the story of how the Stricker’s “Charlemagne”. ble”. The final pages contain the oldest ver- globe was transported to Zurich during the sion of the Lord’s Prayer in German. Swiss second battle of Villmergen in 1712. St. Gal- The most beautiful manuscript author Franz Hohler dedicated a story to this len and Zurich argued from 1996 to 2006 The Folchart Psalter is a masterpiece of late manuscript entitled “Das Päckchen” (The over the return of the precious object, before Carolingian illuminated initial art, which in- Parcel). finally reaching an agreement: the original volved the embellishment of the initial letters 39 was to remain in Zurich, while an exact rep- of a page or chapter. Plan of the monastery lica was produced for St. Gallen. Around 820 AD, the decision was made to The librarian rebuild the monastery, using the Plan of Cornel Dora is the ab- St. Gallen as a basis. The plan should be un- bey’s librarian and is derstood more as a kind of concept for living as integral to the col- at the time. It is a valuable contemporary lection as the manu- testament that shows how society, the mon- scripts and curiosities astery and farming all worked. It is even themselves. His be- possible to see exactly which plants people nign spirit pervades grew at the time. The precious original can the entire library, and be seen in the new exhibition hall in the ab- he can be relied upon bey precinct. to answer any ques- tion. Under his guid- Wooden floors ance, a tour becomes a Felt slippers are as much part of the fabric of journey through time the library as the books themselves. The rea- itself. son: the ornate parquet floor made from The House of Wonders spruce, walnut and cherry wood from the Curiosities All kinds of curiosities were gathered to- gether in the library. The collection includes Schepenese, a female mummy from ancient Egypt, and the travel diary of Alsatian world traveller Georg Franz Müller (1646–1723). His beautiful illustrations of pineapples, can- St. Gallen abbey precinct nibals and Chinese people offer an insight Park and abbey church into the globalised world at the time. Let the apothecary for the soul work its magic on you. St. Gallen region has already been around for Stylus 252 years, and the intention is that it should The handwritten books are often collabora- remain there for many more years to come. tive works, which is why the writing is for- Welcome to That’s why no one enters the baroque hall malised and reveals little about the authors. the House of without a pair of slippers. However, it is not uncommon for manu- Wonders.
PEOPLE People animate the ever-changing landscape with lively culture, delicious cuisine and ancient traditions that have been carefully handed down to us. G e n e va Time takes time 42 Val de B ag n e s & O r s i è r e s A passion for wooden skis 44 Fribourg Café de la Fonderie 48 Switzerland. № 02
Time is made in Geneva and given the city’s seal of approval. PEOPLE
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The magician’s apprentice: Besarta Murti learns the arcane art of watch- making in Geneva. G e n e va Time takes time It takes enormous sensitivity to bring tiny cogwheels to life in a mechanical timepiece that can capture something as transient as time itself. A craft that is deeply rooted in Geneva’s soul. T he water leaps towards the sky and greets the morning with its freshness. The Jet d’Eau is switched on every morning A glance at the trainees’ schedule shows just how much sensitivity and precision is needed when putting a timepiece together. They at 9 a.m. on the dot (or at 10 a.m. in the winter spend the first year of their training making months). The fountain was put into opera- the instruments that they will subsequently tion at the end of the 19th century to relieve use throughout their apprenticeship when the overpressure in the system of the Coulou- crafting their “school watch”. Symbolically, it vrenière hydroelectric power station. The shows that time seems to pass more slowly plant was built in response to the growing de- for master watchmakers. After all: it takes 43 mand for electricity – in the watch industry, time to make time. for example. The pressure became too great That Geneva has become the capital of when the machines were turned off in the watchmaking is due to the famous religious evening. This problem was eventually re- reformer Calvin and the fact that necessity is solved by technical means. However, the Jet the mother of invention. Geneva was a mag- d’Eau remained. It became a city landmark net for goldsmiths in the 16th century. How- and, due to its history, a symbol of the watch- ever, when Calvin rejected riches in the form making industry at the same time. of gold and precious stones, they had to find a Geneva is still synonymous with Swiss preci- new line of business and henceforth devoted sion and is the home of many renowned themselves to watchmaking. watch brands. It is hardly surprising that the The Geneva Seal dates back to roughly the city is also home to the watchmaking school, same time as the Jet d’Eau. The small but ex- where the traditional craft is passed on to the tremely significant embossed insignia on the next generation. During their four years of back of the timepiece is now awarded by the training, students are immersed in the magi- Timelab foundation. The seal means that the cal world of mechanical timepieces – tiny timepiece has not only been manufactured miracles that measure time, while also defy- entirely in Geneva, but also meets strict qual- ing it with their own timelessness. One of the ity requirements. “The Geneva Seal guaran- students here is Besarta Murti. She is in her tees that every single component in a third year of training and was named best timepiece is absolutely unique,” explains student at the Geneva watchmaking school at Besarta Murti, adding, “That is a beautiful the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. thought.” í “Watch mechanisms with all their cogs and wheels have always fascinated me,” she ex- Geneva from the plains. “There is something quite magical point of view of a young about capturing something so transient.” watchmaker.
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Val de B ag n e s & O r s i è r e s A passion for wooden skis A U N I QU E S K I W I T H A WO O D E N C O R E 45 Swathed in legend, the Great St. Bernhard Pass and the surround- ing mountains dominate local life. The same is true for mountain guide and joiner Justin Marquis, who spends around 200 days of each year on his skis. His passion for skiing led him to develop his own skis: just1ski. He produces these with a great deal of care and attention by hand and tailors each pair to their future owner. w Each ski is quite unique and is adjusted to the ski- ing style of the individual skier.
Handmade skis Justin Marquis let us look around his workshop in Orsières and answered our questions. Justin, how did your passion for making skis come about? I am a mountain guide and joiner and when I needed new skis to train as a mountain guide, I went into my workshop and came up with a concept for what the perfect ski should look like. It took more than 200 hours of hard graft before I was satisfied and held the first pair of just1skis in my hands. How many hours do you need to make a pair of skis these days? Naturally the process has become much leaner, but it still takes around 20 hours to produce a pair of skis. PEOPLE What part of the handcrafting process do you like best? Working with wood and gluing the laminate layers. The wooden core is like the soul of the ski, a living, sensuous entity. Around this we glue different layers of material, all of which have a particular function, depending on the ski. I really get a kick out of the precision assembly of the in- dividual skis. What materials are key for your skis? The composite materials made from fibreglass, carbon and flax are key components in the ski’s interior. Then there’s the coating, which plays a vital role when it comes to speed: our skis have a P-tex 5920 coating that enables them to glide perfectly with an occasional application of wax. Can you describe the character of your skis? just1ski can best be described as a freeride touring ski. But every skier is different and needs a ski that suits them, their skiing style and their body. That’s why our customers first try out a few moves on a standardised test ski. Based on the feedback we receive and the measurements of the skiers, we then determine the design adjustments we need to make, giving each pair their own unique character. w
A day’s skiing in Val de Bagnes 24h in a e s V l n de Bag La Barmasse Cabane Brunet Adventures in the powder snow The secured route from La Barmasse to Ca- on the road, where a final, slightly gentler as- bane Brunet is part of the well-known “In- cent to the hut awaits. From here you can al- 8:00 a.m. Breakfast at the tégrale du Rogneux” ski touring race and is ready see the hut flag beckoning to you in the La Vallée hotel quite challenging. From the La Barmasse car wind. Weary adventurers will receive a warm The family-run hotel in Lourtier park, follow the snowy road towards the Bru- welcome from the Corthay family and can ex- ensures relaxing nights in net hut to the first crossroads, then step off to pect to enjoy hearty cooking and fresh apple anticipation of adventurous days the left here and into the forest. This first as- pie just like granny used to make. Surrounded in the snow. cent offers views of beautiful landscapes – by a breathtakingly beautiful Alpine environ- the eye is inevitably drawn to imposing Mont ment, you can relax and enjoy the sunshine. Pleureur at the end of Val de Bagnes – and On the return leg of the journey, simply fol- 9:00 a.m. will make you break out in a sweat. After low the road back to the car park. An adventure on skis crossing the forest, you’ll find yourself back Starting from La Barmasse, you can reach Cabane Brunet in around two and a half hours on a route that is as picturesque as it is challenging. 11:30 a.m. Lunch at Cabane Brunet In the cosy mountain hut, ski tourers can fortify them selves with spicy dishes in 47 preparation for the descent into the valley. 4:00 p.m. Farinet après-ski in Verbier Live music creates a relaxed atmosphere in the bar of the Le Farinet hotel. or Relax in Lourtier And if you’d prefer to end the day with pampering and wellness rather than après-ski, you can return to the La Vallée hotel. Ski hire The Montagne Show shop in Le Châble hires out all the equipment you could possibly need for an adventurous ski tour and safe passage through the powder snow. The best ideas for an unforgettable winter holiday in Valais.
Fribourg Café de la Fonderie THE KITCHEN KINGS OF FRIBOURG 49 Childhood friends Ben and Léo discovered their shared passion for cooking at an early age and put this to the test during their student days – Léo studied business and Ben politics – by entering cookery contests. Encouraged by their successes, they decided to stake everything on their cooking: they learned from the masters of their industry, Bocuse and Ducasse, got their own show on national television and opened their first restaurant to great fanfare in 2016. p
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24h in Fri g bour New tastes THE KITCHEN KINGS 8:00 a.m. The famous Café de la Fonderie run by Ben and Léo straddles the cul- Le Point Commun tural border between east and west, hidden away in a former foundry Breakfast with fine sourdough in Fribourg’s industrial district. The restaurant’s inspiring neigh- bread and good coffee in bours include Fri-Son, the coolest club in western Switzerland, vari- the lovingly run restaurant on ous small shops and hip design studios. Following the overwhelming Place Jean-Tinguely. success of the restaurant and television show, the two friends did not rest on their laurels for long. Instead, they have helped to bring the city’s culinary image up to date with the Japanese-inspired “Kumo”, 9:00 a.m. A stroll through the city the experimental Jo-Bar and various takeaway and home delivery Climb through the streets of the initiatives. Here are some of their tips. old town as far as the Loreto Chapel, then pay a visit to the Cathedral of St. Nicholas. p s 12:00 p.m. Kumo Take a bite Drink up A fortifying meal that excitingly unites Japanese cuisine with local tastes. Pastabate Fri-Mousse The pasta workshop pours a Speciality beers have been 51 great deal of care and expertise brewed in the small brasserie 2:00 p.m. into exploring the characteristics since 1993 and are best An afternoon in the of older and newer varieties tasted in the bar itself. company of great design of organic grains from the region Rue de la Samaritaine 19 Admire the exhibits in the when used in making the 1700 Fribourg Kunsthalle, then browse highest-quality pasta. the delights on sale at the Passage du Cardinal 1 Le Petit Château Bottega Ethica. 1700 Fribourg The Simonet family has been tending the vines in the best location in the region for 7:00 p.m. Fromagerie Sciboz Café de la Fonderie 200 years. The whole venture For 63 years, this very special Dine in style at the restaurant is completely biodynamic, and cheese shop has been offering run by Ben and Léo. the wines are a dream. the best varieties from the Route du Lac 134, 1787 Môtier famous Fribourg regional cheesemakers and select cheeses 10:00 p.m. g Auberge aux 4 Vents from all over the world. Just one more delicious drink in Boulevard de Pérolles 18a 1700 Fribourg Kitchen Jo-Bar, then it’s time for bed in one of the legendary rooms at miracles the Auberge aux 4 Vents, where Tannacker Organic Farm a good night’s sleep is practically Moitié-moitié The small organic vegan shop guaranteed. The region’s world-famous turns the vegetables, berries, fondue mixture. herbs, spices, nuts, fruit and various wild plants growing on Gâteau bullois the farm into tasty treasures. A cake made from nuts The sourdough bread, syrups with cream from the La Gruyère and jellies are sinful treats – region and chocolate. available from the market or Cuchaule AOP from the farm shop itself. Sweet corn bread is married Goma 8, 1718 Rechthalten with the incomparable Moutarde Culinary de Bénichon. highlights in Switzerland.
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The concierge understands exact- ly what you want and has all the information you need for a perfect holiday. CONCIERGE Bernese Oberland Lombachalp This snowshoe hike takes you through an untouched winter landscape surrounded by the Hohgant and Augstmatthorn.
Winter activities Mobility Hotel A D B CONCIERGE E C F
From cross-country skiing or snowshoeing to winter hiking, sledding or ice skating – Switzerland is the original location for winter holidays all in white. The tips from Switzerland Tourism and its partners will help you enjoy your winter holiday to the fullest. More inspiration can be found on the last page. Snowshoe Tobog Ice skating hiking ganing Fribourg Region Lake Schwarzsee Valais Lucerne- Enjoy a unique experience on the North Face Trail Lake Lucerne Region frozen mountain lake, surround- This eight-kilometre snowshoe Rigi Kulm ed by a dreamlike panorama, hike begins at Schwarzsee, The first highlight is the cog rail- where you can practice your crosses the beautiful Stafelalp way from Vitznau to Rigi Kulm. pirouettes. Once the ice is thick and ends after about four hours Opened in 1871, it was the first enough, the lake is officially below the rugged north face of mountain railway in Europe. The opened up for games of hockey, the Matterhorn. second highlight is the view from ice skating, walking, Bavarian Rigi Kulm, the highest peak of Ticino curling, or simply relaxing. the Rigi massif at 1,797 metres. Percorso Passo The third highlight is the Rigi San Bernardino Graubünden Kulm–Klösterli toboggan run: Crossing the rounded humps Alp Raguta, Feldis E the steep gradient ensures thrill- formed by the glacier, the The natural ice field of Alp Raguta ing speeds. ten-kilometre snowshoe tour can lies at an impressive 1,952 metres prove challenging as it ascends to Graubünden above sea level, just five minutes’ the San Bernardino Pass. Preda–Bergün B walk from the upper station of the The little municipality of Preda Feldis–Mutta chair lift. The fabu- Winter at the north portal of the Albula lous views of the valley into the railway tunnel marks the start of Domleschg and Piz Beverin hiking the winding, high-speed tobog- beyond make ice skating here gan run, which passes under quite unforgettable. Eastern Switzerland / world-famous railway viaducts Liechtenstein and follows the Albula river, Bernese Oberland 55 Winter activities Rosenboden ending in Bergün in a gentle win- Interlaken magic Panoramic Trail A ter landscape. Top of Europe Ice Magic in Inter- Enthroned on the Chäserrugg, laken encompasses six different Lake Geneva Region the impressive wooden structure ice fields, which are linked by Les Diablerets D designed by architects Herzog & winding ice tracks. In the eve- Affording a wonderful view of de Meuron serves as the start nings, a coloured light display and the mountain range of the same and end of a short hike. This music create a unique atmos- name, the toboggan run zigzags one-hour circular hike offers a phere. from the Les Mazots station unique view of six countries and through forests and down to Les 500 peaks. Lake Geneva Region Diablerets. This is one of the Lac de Joux C longest tobogganing runs in Bernese Oberland During the cold season, Switzerland. Springenboden F the 9.5 square kilometres of the This circular winter hike over Graubünden Lac de Joux are transformed seven kilometres passes through Muottas Muragl into a huge natural ice rink. Plen- fields and forests and, after a Tobogganing fans can expect a ty of skating fun for all the gentle ascent, rewards you with total of 20 bends on the descent family is guaranteed in the magi- a spectacular view of the Diem- down to the Punt Muragl valley cal idyllic setting of the Vallée tigtal and Simmental valleys. station. As well as the narrow de Joux. hairpin bends, the 718-metre height differential makes for an exciting trip down. It is with good reason that this toboggan run has the reputation of being the fastest in the Engadin. SwitzerlandMobility Rental car The free platform offered by SwitzerlandMobility is Winding through snow-covered mountains in the crys- ideal for planning an active leisure programme. It offers tal-clear air – winter road trips are particularly pictur- a network of uniformly signposted routes throughout esque. Hertz and Europcar offer a large selection of the country that are perfectly coordinated with public rental cars to suit every need throughout Switzerland, transport. so that you can easily plan your solo trip in advance. Expert advice for a safe trip through the snow is also » SwitzerlandMobility app included. » switzerlandmobility.ch
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