SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
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Understanding how she communicates and responds to messages about haircare, and how well she feels the industry represents her “Although the industry is improving, there are still brands that under represent black hair and beauty. There are many standards of beauty not just one” SSI Category & Consumer Insights - January 2021 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Table of Contents p.3 • Executive Summary Summary & Purpose of Study p.6 • Methodology SSI Qualitative Research p.7 • What She Says Exploring the language that consumers prefer when describing their hair p.30 • Representation How she feel about herself and the way she is represented in the beauty industry p.47 • Communication How well are retailers and brands communicating with consumers? p.80 • Respondent Profiles Demographics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Executive summary How does she talk about her hair? Only 86% 27% Use the Andre Walker Like or love their natural hair classification system (e.g. 4b /4c type etc) to refer to her hair type African American women are mostly very positive about their hair. Most said that they either love their natural hair type, or like it, even if caring for it can be challenging at times. Consumers commonly describe their hair type using words like kinky, curly, coily, wavy, thick, coarse and natural. Around three quarters of African American women are familiar with the Andre Walker number/letter classification system (e.g. 4A / 4B / 4C) however it is less widely used by consumers than may be have been thought; only 27% actually use this classification to describe their hair type and a similar proportion said that they don’t understand, or are not familiar with the classification at all. The classification is most frequently used by women with 4C hair. Consumers were asked about a number of popular and/or potentially contentious terms often used in relation to African American haircare. Kinky is one such term – although 28% use this term, particularly to describe their own hair type, 12% cringe when they hear the word, due to negative connotations of hair that is undesirable. This term is more acceptable with younger consumers than older women. Other terms consumers don’t like hearing include “good hair” and “bad hair”, “nappy”, and “exotic”. Some of these terms are used within the Black community, but even if accepted amongst the community, would be frowned upon if used by brands or commercial entities. Terms commonly used in hashtags, including Black Girl Magic, Black Girl Hair, and Black Lives Matter also do not hold universal appeal. While not necessarily offensive, some consumers cringe at these terms due to overuse, misuse, and a sense that they are unnecessary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Executive summary How does she relate to the hair and beauty industry? 25% 51% 35% 18% Feel that some looks or styles Are often or occasionally Have considered cancelling Do not feel well represented by are more associated with lighter offended or turned off by haircare brands the hair and beauty industry or darker skin communication from hair brands One quarter of African American women do not feel that they are well represented by the hair and beauty industry. This view is related to a lack of products that address their needs, as well as a lack of diversity in the industry. Much of the feedback from consumers relating to diversity were not necessarily suggesting that Black women are not represented, but that the industry only represents a narrow view of African American women, and not the full spectrum of skin tones, hair types, and combinations of the two. Related to this, half of surveyed women feel that certain looks or hairstyles are more associated with either lighter or darker skin tones. Examples include perceptions that lighter skinned women have looser hair textures and darker skinned women have coarser hair, and that certain hairstyles are usually portrayed in combination with particular skin tones. This is often rooted in colorism both from within and outside of the black community, and promotes the notion of lighter skin as more desirable than dark skin tones. Consumers are offended or turned off from brands when communication lacks diversity. This is not necessarily an overt omission of people of color, it can be as simple as dismissing a product or brand because the models featured in their advertising are all a similar shade, or have similar hair types. Consumers are also offended or turned off from brand communication with misleading or unbelievable claims, cliches, anything that implies that hair needs to tamed or that their hair is not ideal, and shallow attempts by non-Black owned brands to cash in on Black dollars. Almost one-in-five said that they have cancelled or considered cancelling haircare brands. They do this if products are not meeting their needs but also if a brand no longer aligns with their personal ethics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Executive summary How does she decide whether or not a product is for her? Images Ingredients Key words When evaluating product packaging, marketing, or in-store mechanizing, one of the first things African American consumers pay attention to is the image. They very quickly make a decision about whether or not a product is suitable for their hair based on whether or not the person pictured has the same hair type as them. If the woman pictured has tighter or looser curls/coils, or straight hair (for naturals, vice versa for relaxed women), many will instantly conclude that the product won’t be suitable for them. They seem to take imagery very literally, so even if looking at brand, not product, advertising, the hair type of any model shown will influence perceptions of the type of hair the brand is suited for. For this reason it is wise where possible to include more than one model showcasing different , but similar hair types to appeal to a broader consumer base. African American consumers make judgements on product or brand suitability based on ingredients; they look for natural and organic ingredients, and are also attracted by clear messaging about what is NOT included, for example no alcohol, sulfates, or parabens. In the absence of an image, or when investigating further beyond the initial perception created by an image, consumers look for keywords describing their hair type or texture. They also look for “moisturizing’ in most haircare products, natural or organic, and also keywords relating to particular hair concerns they have, for example repair, or growth. Women with natural hair look for anything relating to relaxer, perm, straightening, etc to rule out products. Less obvious keywords consumers may use to judge a product or brand as unsuitable include “for all hair types”, products that claim to be for oily or thin hair, and products that mention “volume”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
SSI Consumer Research Methodology • SSI conducted consumer research with 600 African American women to gain insight into: • How she talks about her hair • Terms she uses and terms that make her cringe • How well she feels the beauty industry represents herself and other women of color • How she responds to brand communication, including how she makes decisions about product suitability • SSI Consumer Research is supported, enhanced and complemented by quantitative Retail Chains syndicated results. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Andre Walker hair typing system Is one of the most widely used hair type classification systems. It was developed in the 90’s by stylist Andre Walker to market his haircare products and has become widely adopted by the industry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Using the Andre Walker classification system Using an image as a guide, respondents self- classified their hair Around one quarter identified their hair as 4C 24% 17% 17% 16% 7% 5% 4% 2% 5% 4% 1 2A 2B 2C 3A 3B 3C 4A 4B 4C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Using the image as a guide, which of the following best describes your NATURAL hair texture (i.e. as it naturally grows from your head)? Base Total (n=600)
How familiar are African American women with the Andre Walker hair classification system? Although most African American women are familiar with the system, only just over one quarter I use this classification I am not familiar with, or (27%) typically describe their hair using that when describing my hair type/texture do not understand, this classification. classification system 27% 26% One quarter of surveyed African American women are not familiar with, or do not understand the classification, which means brands should cautious about when communicating with consumers. I am familiar with the classifications, but don't usually use it when describing my hair type/texture 47% . . . .How . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . familiar are you with the letter/number classification system (eg 1 / 2/ 3A / 3B / 3C / 4A / 4B / 4C) for describing hair texture? Total sample (n=600) 10
Women withBy 4C hair hair are typesignificantly – who uses / doesn’t use? more likely to use this classification By age compared to all other hair types By natural vs relaxed. 40% of those who identified their hair as 4C said that they use this term for their hair. In contrast, only 19% of those who identified their hair as 4A/B (using the provided image as a guide) said that they use this terminology, while one third of those women said they are unfamiliar with, or do not understand the classification 23% 19% Use this classification 26% to describe my hair 40% 49% Familiar, but don't 50% use it to describe my 48% hair 42% Not familiar / don't understand it 32% 27% 26% 18% 1 / 2A / 2B / 2C 3A / 3B / 3C 4A / 4B 4C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . How familiar are you with the letter/number classification system (eg 1 / 2/ 3A / 3B / 3C / 4A / 4B / 4C) for describing hair texture? Total sample (n=600) 11
Familiarity and usage of the Andre Walker classification system also varies significantly based on age, and hair state By age By hair state Women aged over 45 are less likely to be familiar with the There is no difference in familiarity / understanding of the classification classification between women with natural and chemically altered hair textures, however, women with chemically altered texture are less likely to use the classification to describe their hair. 22% 21% 19% Use this 31% 31% 29% classification to describe my hair 31% Familiar, but 48% 55% don't use it to 44% describe my hair 53% 50% Not familiar / 48% don't understand 30% it 27% 26% 16% 18% 18-29 30-44 45-59 60+ Natural hair texture Chemically altered texture . . . .How . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . familiar are you with the letter/number classification system (eg 1 / 2/ 3A / 3B / 3C / 4A / 4B / 4C) for describing hair texture? Total sample (n=600) 12
What other terms does she use to describe her hair type or texture? . . . .What.other.terms.do you.usually . use.when.describing . .your hair . TYPE . or . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TEXTURE? Total sample (n=600) 13
What terms relating to hair/beauty/ethnicity does she use? Kinky 28% Good hair 18% Textured 18% Nappy 17% Black Girl Magic 16% Black Lives Matter 14% Black Girl Hair 12% Black Excellence 11% Grease 11% Ethnic 10% Crown (i.e. to describe hair) 9% Bad hair 8% Urban 5% Exotic (i.e. when describing a woman's features or beauty) 5% None of the above 29% . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you.use.in your.everyday . life, . on.social.media,.or in.relation . to.hair and . beauty? . . . . . . . . . . . Total sample (n=600) 14
What terms make her cringe? Nappy 45% Bad hair 31% Good hair 20% Kinky 12% Exotic (i.e. when describing a woman's features or beauty) 10% Black Girl Hair 9% Black Girl Magic 8% Black Lives Matter 8% Grease 8% Urban 7% Ethnic 6% Black Excellence 4% Textured 3% Crown (i.e. to describe hair) 3% Any others 2% None of the above 11% . . . .Do any.of these . words . or.terms.make.you.cringe.when.you hear . them . used . in relation . .to race . or .hair? .Total . . . . . . . . . sample (n=600) 15
“KINKY” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 18-29 35% 18-29 7% 12% 28% 30-44 34% 30-44 10% 45-59 22% 45-59 12% 60+ 22% 60+ 25% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • Used more by women aged under 45 • Most likely to offend older women (60+). • More commonly used by women with 4A/B (35%) or 4C (37%) hair How is it used? Why is it offensive? • To describe tightly coiled hair texture. • Not necessarily offensive when used to describe texture (i.e. 4C hair), but • Can also refer to hair that is tangled, thick, coarse, hard to manage or difficult some women don’t like it because of the negative connotations of being to comb. difficult or undesirable. • Sometimes described as being another word for nappy. • Can be used an insult. . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 16 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“NAPPY” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 18-29 21% 18-29 44% 17% 30-44 22% 30-44 49% 45% 45-59 13% 45-59 44% 60+ 9% 60+ 40% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • Used more by women aged under 45 • No significant difference by age,. • More commonly used by women with 4C hair (24%) • More likely to be offensive to women with 4A/B (52%) or 4C (47%), • Used less in the North East (7%). compared to those with type 1 or 2 hair (34%) How is it used? Why is it offensive? • To describe hair that is unruly, “wooly”, knotty, difficult to manage or hard to • Racist, disrespectful, degrading, rude, linked to slavery. comb. • Old and out-dated and very negative connotations • Some women use it to describe their own hair and are not offended by the • Can be an insult to imply a person’s hair is not done, or unclean. term. • Also implies coarser hair textures are bad or undesirable. • Sometimes used interchangeably with nappy • Especially unacceptable if used by white or non-AA people, but many do not like hearing it used by other African Americans either, even if they are describing their own hair. . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 17 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“GOOD HAIR” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 18-29 22% 18-29 33% 18% 20% 30-44 19% 30-44 17% 45-59 17% 45-59 18% 60+ 17% 60+ 16% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • No significant difference by age • More likely to offend young women aged 18-29. • More likely to be used by women with type 1 or 2 hair (24%) and least likely • More likely to offend women with natural (23%) vs chemically altered (12% to be used by women with 4C hair (12%). texture). How is it used? Why is it offensive? • To describe African American hair that is curly, soft, easy to manage (not coarse or tightly coiled). • Implies that coarser natural textures are bad or undesirable. • Usually used to refer to a person’s natural hair texture but can also be used to • Centers Eurocentric beauty standards. describe a good hair day – when hair looks particularly good or they are happy • Divisive with how it is styled. • All (healthy) hair is good hair. • Sometimes to describe hair that has been straightened or texture softened • Healthy, silky, shiny. • Implication that you are lucky if you were born with “good hair”. . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 18 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“BAD HAIR” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 8% 18-29 11% 18-29 36% 30-44 8% 31% 30-44 34% 45-59 5% 45-59 26% 60+ 6% 60+ 31% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • No significant difference by age • No significant difference by age • More likely to be used in the West (14%), least likely to be used in the North • Proportion who says it makes them cringe increases with household income East (4%) (47% of those with HH income $75+) How is it used? Why is it offensive? • Hair that is coarse, difficult to manage, unruly. • There is no such thing as bad hair. • Similar to nappy or kinky • By whose standards? • Sometimes used to describe a bad hair day rather than a bad hair type. • Comes from ignorance and misconception. • Does not acknowledge the beauty and diversity of African American hair. . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 19 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“TEXTURED” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 18-29 21% 18-29 5% 18% 3% 30-44 19% 30-44 4% 45-59 18% 45-59 3% 60+ 13% 60+ 0% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • No significant difference by age • No significant difference by age or other demographic characteristics. • More likely to be used in the West (29%), and Midwest (24%). • More commonly used by women with household income over $75k (26%) particularly compared to
“EXOTIC” (to describe features or beauty) I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 5% 18-29 7% 10% 18-29 27% 30-44 6% 30-44 11% 45-59 3% 45-59 5% 60+ 5% 60+ 2% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • No significant differences in usage based on age or other demographics • Most likely to offend 18-29 year olds. • More likely to turn off women with 4A/B (13%) or 4C (12%) hair compared to those with type 1 or 2 hair (4%). • More likely to be offensive to women in the $25-50k HH income bracket (14%). How is it used? Why is it offensive? • To describe someone with unusual beauty or an uncommon look. • Racist and fetishizing • Usually referring to mixed race or heritage. • Dehumanizing – makes them sound like a fruit, animal, or from another planet. • Typically not African American, but some similar features – may be part African • Reductive and divisive – reinforces normative beauty standards and makes American and possibly part Asian or another ethnicity. everything else “other”. • An example would be “Brown skin with light brown, blue, or green eyes. Perhaps almond-shaped eyes” . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 21 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“BLACK GIRL MAGIC” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 16% 18-29 25% 8% 18-29 16% 30-44 23% 30-44 10% 45-59 9% 45-59 5% 60+ 2% 60+ 3% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • More likely to be used by women aged under 45 • Most likely to offend or turn off women aged 18-29. • More commonly used by women in the $25-50k bracket (20%), particularly compared to those with lower household income (12%). How is it used? Why is it offensive? • Conveys a sense of cultural power and pride. • We are not magic – just human • Black women are amazing, beautiful, capable and inspirational • Suggests witchcraft or voodoo • Signifies rising up and holding head high in the face of adversity or • The term is overrated / over used / cheesy mistreatment. • Women – not girls. • Acceptance and love of her natural hair type, skin tone, and features. • No need to elevate Black women over Black men, or women from other ethnicities. . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 22 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“BLACK LIVES MATTER” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 14% 18-29 23% 8% 18-29 9% 30-44 19% 30-44 8% 45-59 8% 45-59 8% 60+ 6% 60+ 7% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • More likely to be used by women aged under 45 • No significant difference based on age. • More likely to turn off women in the lowest income bracket (
“BLACK GIRL HAIR” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 12% 18-29 22% 9% 18-29 12% 30-44 13% 30-44 9% 45-59 8% 45-59 6% 60+ 7% 60+ 9% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • More likely to be used by women aged 18-29. • No significant difference based on age. • More likely to offend women with 4A/B hair (12%) than 4C hair (6%). How is it used? Why is it offensive? • To refer to afro-centric hair textures. • Ignorant and stereotypical term with no real meaning – Black women have • Acknowledges that Black hair is different to other hair types and has it’s own many different hair types, and some other races also have thick or coarse hair challenges and requirements. textures usually associated with “Black girl hair”. . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 24 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“BLACK EXCELLENCE” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 18-29 11% 22% 18-29 6% 4% 30-44 13% 30-44 3% 45-59 5% 45-59 5% 60+ 7% 60+ 2% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • Most likely to be used by women aged 18-29. • No significant difference based on age. • Most likely to be used by women with 4C hair (16%), particularly compared to • More likely make women with chemically altered hair texture cringe (7%), type 1 or 2 hair (7%). compared to natural (3%). • Most commonly used by women in the $50-75k HH income bracket (18%), particularly compared to $75k+ (6%). How is it used? Why is it offensive? • Celebrates the successes of Black people doing great things. • Divisive and unnecessary • Reinforces positive representation of the Black community and encourages working hard and striving for personal best. . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 25 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“GREASE” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 11% 18-29 11% 8% 18-29 9% 30-44 13% 30-44 10% 45-59 9% 45-59 6% 60+ 8% 60+ 6% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • No significant difference by age. • No significant difference based on age or other demographic characteristics. • Usage is highest in the lowest income bracket ($25k, 14%), and decreases with affluence ($75K+, 5%). How is it used? Why is it offensive? • To describe a thick, heavy hair product or ointment, often used on the scalp or • Old fashioned product and term. to slick down hair. • Sounds unappealing and not something you would want in your hair. • Hair moisturizer. • There are now better products on the market which serve the same purpose grease used to serve. • Some use the term “moisturizer” now instead for similar products (eg ointments). . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 26 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“ETHNIC” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 10% 18-29 2% 6% 18-29 14% 30-44 14% 30-44 6% 45-59 10% 45-59 3% 60+ 12% 60+ 3% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • Rarely used by 18-29 year olds. • Most likely to turn off 18-29 year olds. • More likely to be used by women with natural (12%)than chemically altered • Does not bother women in the Midwest (2%). (5%) texture., and highest amongst women with 4A/B hair (15%). • Usage increases with affluence; $17% in the $75k+ bracket, 8% for
“CROWN” (to describe hair) I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 9% 18-29 13% 3% 18-29 8% 30-44 11% 30-44 1% 45-59 6% 45-59 3% 60+ 3% 60+ 0% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • More commonly used by women under the age of 45. • Most likely to be a turn off 18-29 year olds and women in the North East • More likely to be used by women with natural (10%)than chemically altered (7%). (5%) texture., and highest amongst women with 4C hair (12%). How is it used? Why is it offensive? • Hair is my crown and glory. Have been raised with this sentiment. • Not particularly offensive but some find it annoying , an unsuitable way of • Celebrates natural hair referring to hair, or just not a term they would use. . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 28 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“URBAN” I use the term It makes me cringe Total By age Total By age 5% 18-29 6% 7% 18-29 12% 30-44 8% 30-44 11% 45-59 4% 45-59 2% 60+ 3% 60+ 2% Demographic differences: Demographic differences: • No significant difference, but usage is slightly more common in for women • More likely to turn off or offend women aged under 45. aged under 45.. How is it used? Why is it offensive? • Literally, to describe city areas or living a city lifestyle, but is often used to mean • Overused and misused. Black. • Feels like a “code” for Black for people who are afraid to use the word Black. • Implies ghetto. . . . Which . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday . . life, on. social. .or in.relation media, . to.hair and . beauty? . . . .(n=600) Total sample . . . . . . . 29 Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
How does she feel about herself and the way she is represented in the beauty industry? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
How does she feel about her natural hair type? Other 2% Most African American women feel I don't like it 13% positively toward their hair and their natural hair texture and type. 86% I love it 40% Said that they “like” or “love” their natural hair. I like it but it is challenging 46% . . . .Q How.do you . feel.about.your.NATURAL . hair . type.(i.e..if/when.it is.NOT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . chemically altered)? Please tell us what you like/don't like. Total sample (n=600) 31
Other Other 2% 1% I don't like it 8% I love it I don't like it 31% 24% I love it 44% I like it but it is challenging I like it but it 46% is challenging 44% Women with natural hair LOVE their hair type more . . . . . than those with chemically altered texture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Q How do you feel about your NATURAL hair type (i.e. if/when it is NOT chemically altered)? Please tell us what you like/don't like. Total sample (n=600)
Women with Type 1 and 2 hair are more likely to love their hair, and have fewer challenges 7% 11% In contrast, approximately half of women with type 3 or above said 15% that they like their hair but it is challenging. The most common 17% challenges include: Other • Hard to manage or maintain • Detangling and keeping it detangled – many said their hair is I don't like 27% 50% hard to comb through 51% it 48% • Not knowing how to style, maintain or care for their hair • Keeping hair moisturized I like it but • Finding the right products that work for their hair it is challenging These challenges are similar for women with type 3 and above. I love it 52% 41% 38% 35% 1 / 2A / 2B / 2C 3A / 3B / 3C 4A / 4B 4C . . . .Q How.do you . feel.about.your.NATURAL . hair . type.(i.e..if/when.it is.NOT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . chemically altered)? Please tell us what you like/don't like. Total sample (n=600) 33
What does she LOVE about her hair? African American women who love their natural hair type talked about loving not (or no longer) using chemicals, ease and versatility of styling, hair health, embracing their heritage, and being it part of themselves. “I love my natural hair. I love the texture, smell and length of my hair. My hair is beautiful.” “I love the fact that I can wear it natural and it will look great, or I can flat iron and straighten it and it will look great as well. I'm thankful that I do not need the chemicals for my hair” “It is me, and I love my hair and texture. It represents my life as a person of color” “It's super diverse, very fun to play in and taking care of it can be very beneficial to your overall health. “Whatever type of hair God gave me I would love it and take care of it.” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Q How do you feel about your NATURAL hair type (i.e. if/when it is NOT chemically altered)? Please tell us what you like/don't like. Total sample (n=600)
One quarter do not feel well represented in the hair and beauty industry Women who do not feel well represented pointed to a need for greater diversity of women in advertising, on packaging, and in the media, including featuring a wide range of skin tones, hair types, hair styles, and body types. They also commonly indicated that they need more and better (and less expensive) products to meet their needs. If no, what could the industry do to better represent you? More diversity of women featured 53% More / better products to address my 31% Do you feel that you needs (and your hair type / No skin tone) are currently 25% More Black owners and employees 5% well represented in the hair and beauty More information to help me 8% industry? More research to understand my needs 4% “Other comments were mostly stating that it Other 5% is better than it used to be, but still room for improvement . . . .Do you.feel.that you . (and.your.hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . type / skin tone) are currently well represented in the hair and beauty industry? If no, what could the industry do to better represent you? Total sample (n=600) 35
Women with type 4C hair are most likely to feel that they are not well represented in the beauty industry Majority of those with type 3 or above hair who feel they are not represented want to see more diversity portrayed in the beauty industry % who do not feel well represented If not, what could industry do to better represent them? 44% 1 / 2A / 2B / 2C 16% 33% 0% 22% 0%based on small number of comment –0% (chart n=9) 52% 3A / 3B / 3C 23% 26% 4% 4% 19% (chart based on small number of comment –0% n=27) 54% 4A / 4B 26% 32% 5% 5% 10% 0% 58% 4C 34% 30% 8% 15% 3% 0% More diversity More / better More Black More information More research to Other products owners/staff understand my . . . .Do you.feel.that you . (and.your.hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . needs type / skin tone) are currently well represented in the hair and beauty industry? If no, what could the industry do to better represent you? Total sample (n=600) 36
Diversity means… “Most hair commercials are more geared toward “Represent us properly and not what’s in your imagination” “Use models with my hair type straight hair. I have to really search to find “Use women with different body types, and use more on packaging” products for me” women with 4b and 4c hair types..” “More images of women and other people with 4c hair, “Not tokenize us in advertisements, showing the struggles of having that hair type but also “Show more girls with like me with more “It is rare that I see someone who looks schools, salons and product needs. showing us being happy and not wanting to change it” natural hair and natural hairstyles” like me and has my hair texture. The Include and celebrate all skin color and beauty industry is missing diversity hair types, textures and patterns according to each individual needs. Non “They could show more Black women with biased representation.” locs, without a chemical dye. Do a campaign “Show more women with dark brown skin and kinky coily celebrating locs.” hair. Especially in an afro. That would make me feel so “They could show more dark- much better.” “Show more people that look skinned women with 4c hair” “Promote all textures like me in ads and on tv.” of African American “ “Realize that people of color cover a WIDE spectrum of shades from light . . . . . . . . beige . . to . charcoal . . . black . . and. we . .need. items . . that . .accentuates . . . .our. beauty.” . 37
Some specifically called out what they see as a tendency for the media and beauty industry to use mixed race and lighter skinned women with less coarse hair to represent Black women “Use more unambiguous black women who are actually black and NOT mixed race” “Usually the Black female models are clearly mixed race or they are from other countries like African or Caribbean countries. Rarely do you see someone who looks more traditional African American, descendants of slaves in the US. Like Michelle Obama, Stacy Abrams, etc.” “I feel that way because you can see in the ads that they want Black to look a certain way and the way our natural hair and skin is not 100% in the beauty and hair industry.” “The media shows mixed women with curly hair and not dark-skinned women with 4c hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
However it is not just dark skinned women with 4C hair who feel unseen There are so many combinations of hair type and skin tones and women want to see themselves reflected in imagery and communication and feel that THEIR unique needs are considered “For a long time it was either products for white women's hair and skin or black, highly textured or type 4c, and relaxed hair and skin, but nothing for women like me who were mixed race, lighter skinned and a variety of curl types. Every time I see a lighter skinned person it is a token or a bunch that look very similar in curl patterns as if light skinned women only have looser hair or shouldn't be as represented as every other woman. Most of us don't know if the products are good for us if we do not see how it can work for everyone if there is no one similar to us in these brands.” (3C hair) “Most African American products are designed for very coily hair. I feel as though they have neglected my type.” (3B hair) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Half believe that some hairstyles or beauty choices are associated with either lighter or darker skin tones View that everyone is beautiful and This includes both their own unique and can personal views on what looks choose whatever better or is more suitable, as well looks she desires as what they believe the views of regardless of hair For Black women, are society to be type or skin tone certain hair styles or No beauty choices 49% associated with either Yes lighter or darker skin 51% tones? Yes, I mostly hear these things in reference to dark skin black women. There is a deep hatred towards “I don't believe in colorism – i.e. if dark skin black women and it is truly sad and you are a darker Black this is for disgusting. I’ve heard people say they can’t wear you, or if you are a lighter Black this blonde hair or red lipstick and I think it’s ridiculous, is for you. You should make your and those people are ignorant and projecting their choice by what works for you “ own self hate onto dark skin black women. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? Total sample (n=600)
Associations and misconceptions about skin tone and hair style or type “Because people think when you ate darker your hair is more “People assume people of color who are oily and thick, bit when you have lighter skin your hair is of a lighter complexion should have “For example if the model is lighter-skinned she has loose straight like Caucasian hair.” straighter hair.” textured hair but if the model is dark-skinned her hair is kinky and tightly coiled. It never seems to be the other way around.” “Dark skin is associated with nappy hair.” “Right now, I am seeing an emphasis on “I’m thinking specifically of wigs with loose curls; those are more associated with being hair twisting, which I would associate suitable for lighter skin tones. Also hair with highlights or lighter color hair is seen as with darker skin tones more suitable for lighter skinned women. When darker skinned women (like myself) “The lighter the tone the wear lighter hair colors or hair with highlights (either natural colors or unnatural ones), more manageable the hair it’s usually seen as showy, unprofessional, or “ghetto”” style represents. The “It is noticeable that kinky curly afro- darker the tone the more type styles tend to look better on lighter kinkier the hair represents. skin tones. Straight or wavy hair tends “Many believe a lighter skin should be of to suit darker skin tones best.” “Straight hair is associated with lighter hair while wild a more European hair texture, and darker hair is associated with darker skinned people” skin should be more of a 4c texture. Neither belief is true, because skin color “Natural hair is more associated doesn’t determine hair texture..” with darker skin tones.” “I feel like certain styles like afros and braids are publically associated with medium to dark-skinned women. Whereas straighter hair and even wavy are publically associated with lighter-skinned women. In actuality, these hairstyles “it is usually assumed that long hair is more “People think that looser textures are worn by any black woman, whether she's dark-skinned, medium skinned, or appropriate for lighter skinned people” are for lighter skin tones which lighter-skinned.” isn’t the case.” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? “Yes” sample (n=308)
Colorism and preference for lighter skin tones “Certain products are pushed for women “Some feel that braids are low class and they associate anything low “People tend to think that lighter is better and nice with lighter skin with nicer hair as class with a darker skin tone whereas loose curls are considered hair is soft, straight and manageable..” opposed to darker skinned women.” attractive, and they associate that with a lighter skin tone” “I feel this way sometimes. Lighter skin tones seem to be more acceptable” “Its an inside the culture thing” “It's all misogynoir, but for Black women with light brown skin, they're typically seen with more Eurocentric hairstyles (e.g. curly, or long, bone-straight hair) and Black women with darker skin are typically shown in short afros. 4c hair, in general, is also not well-accepted among Black women unless the model “I feel like most styles are made to look rocking it has light brown skin.” “Lighter skin women are often told they better on lighter skin” can pull off any hairstyle or beauty choices meanwhile darker skin are mocked women for their hair choices.” “The fact that this is true is a problem for my people that dates back to the height of colorism and promoting self hate amongst Black people” “I grew up with the concept of good hair, bad hair. We were made to be ashamed of our hair.” “Black hair is/was often not represented positively due to beauty standards that have been imposed upon by society. This also goes for lack of understanding and racial biases as it “I feel women with darker complexion are “People will sometime say she’s was always stated that darker skin women were less appealing supposed to look a certain way that is different too dark skin for that hair” than women of lighter complexion” from women with a lighter complexion” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? “Yes” sample (n=308)
Perceptions that some things just don’t suit, or look better, on certain skin tones This frequently related to colors (i.e. hair color, cosmetics) “Specifically, many say that brighter “Certain colors look better on “Yes, I believe some people may think different “Certain hair colors look better on colors don't look good in dark skin different complexions” skin tones "look better" with different hairstyles. I darker skin women and vice versa” women.“ believe that is ridiculous, though..” “You have to get the right hair style to “For a long time bright lipstick wasn't “In regard to makeup, certain colors “Well, maybe fair skin (light skinned) black for your face and skin color” socially acceptable for dark skinned aren't suitable with darker skin “ women will wear blonde or light brown, even women” red hair, rather than black or dark brown because of their skin tone.“ “Dark skin should not wear blonde “I think light brown, blonde or other light colors hair. It makes them look very sometime goes good on light skin black “When it comes to very bright unnatural” women. I think black, dark blue or other dark hair colors I think darker skin “Some hairstyles only fit a lighter colors goes good on dark skin women.” should refrain from using.“ skinned person or a hair color ie red“ This is also influenced by hair type, face shape and features “Hair styles should be based on the shape “All styles don't look good it “Depending on “It's about the difference in the “Certain hair textures work of your face. But beauty (makeup) is really depends on your skin tone facial features.” texture of hair not skin tone. better with different styles.” dealing with your skin tones” and the shape of your face.” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? “Yes” sample (n=308)
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Women who are aged under 45 are more likely to feel that certain looks are more associated with either lighter or darker skin tones This is interesting as it implies that these views are not the outdated views of an older generation. It may related to younger women tending to be more focused on appearances, and more self- conscious, Higher usage of social media may also inform these perceptions. For Black women, are certain hair styles or beauty choices associated with either lighter or darker skin tones? No No 41% 42% No No 54% 62% Yes Yes 59% 58% Yes Yes 46% 38% 18-29 30-44 45-59 60+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? Total sample (n=600)
African American women of all hair types expressed similar levels of agreement that some looks are more suited to either darker or lighter skin tones Despite many of the explanations given relating to the associations between hair type and skin tone, a consumer’s hair type does not significantly impact whether or not she is aware of, or subscribes to, these beliefs. Although not statistically significant, women with chemically altered hair textures were slightly more likely to indicate a belief that some looks are more associated with certain skin tones. For Black women, are certain hair styles or beauty choices associated with either lighter or darker skin tones? No No No No No No 47% 50% 51% 46% 43% 51% Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes 54% Yes 57% 53% 50% 49% 49% 1 / 2A / 2B / 2C 3A / 3B / 3C 4A / 4B 4C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Natural . .hair texture 46 texture Chemically altered Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? Total sample (n=600)
Communicating with African American consumers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
HASHTAGS & BUZZWORDS We asked her what hashtags and buzzwords she loves and/or hates 18% 8% 78% Listed hashtags/buzzwords they Listed hashtags/buzzwords they Don’t know or don’t have any LOVE HATE: that they love or hate Frequently mentioned terms include: Frequently mentioned terms include: Hashtags and buzzwords are more the domain of • Black girl magic (32 mentions) • Nappy (17 mentions) younger women The proportion who couldn’t • Natural / natural hair / natural curls / natural • Black girl magic (6) name any they love or hate increases significantly beauty (13) • Good hair / bad hair (7) with age: • Queen / Black queen / Black royalty (12) • Slang terms (e.g. booty, hoochie, baby mama • 70% of 18-29 year olds • Black beauty / black is beautiful (11) and other more offensive terms) (5) • 69% of 30-44 year olds • Black girls rock / Back women rock (7) • Angry / angry black woman (4) • 88% of 45-59 year olds • Black excellence (7) • Queen (3) • 90% of 60+ year olds • Kinky /Coily / Curls / Afro (6) • For a black girl (i.e. pretty, for a black girl) (3) • Melanin / melanin magic /melanated (6) • Strong / strong black woman (2) • Crown (5) • Others include ghetto / ghetto fabulous, • Love / love hair / black love (5) sassy, ethnic, too dark, #teamdarkskin and • Black lives matter / BLM (4) #teamlightskin, colored, curly girl, ashy. • Strong / stong black woman (4) • Beautiful (4) • Black hair / black natural hair (3) • Magic / black magic (3) • Black girl power (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 What buzzwords or hashtags (particularly relating to Black women) do you love and/or hate? Total sample (n=600)
When looking at packaging or marketing, what tells her a product is definitely for her? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 When looking at haircare packaging, merchandising (i.e. store displays), or marketing, what are some key words / phrases, images or ingredients that make you think "this is definitely for me" Total sample (n=600)
What tells her a product is definitely for her? Moisturizing / hydrating 15% Words describing my hair type (e.g. kinky, coily, curly, thick, coarse, 4C) 14% Natural / organic 12% Specific ingredients / ingredients list 12% No chemicals / sulfate / alcohol etc 8% African American woman pictured / made for African American women 8% When evaluating haircare product packaging, marketing, Natural hair 7% and merchandising Particular hair need or benefit 6% African American women use a Natural ingredients 6% number of cues to decide if a product Person pictured has the same hair type / looks like me 5% is suitable for their hair Strengthen / repair / protect 5% One of the key words or benefits they look for is “moisturizing”. They also look for words that describe Smoothing / shine 4% their hair type, products that say they are natural or Detangling / manageability 4% organic, and specific ingredients they know to be beneficial for African American hair, including shea “Textured” hair 3% butter, castor oil, essential oils, coconut oil and olive oil. Growth 3% Imagery also plays an important role; they look for Healthy hair / scalp 3% African American women to be pictured, and more specifically, women with the same hair texture, or who Soften 2% look like them. For all hair types 2% They look for products that claim to address particular needs including strength and repair, growth, Ethnic hair / urban 2% smoothing/shine and detangling. Relaxed / straight hair 2% . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 When looking at haircare packaging, merchandising (i.e. store displays), or marketing, what are some key words / phrases, images or ingredients that make you think "this is definitely for me" Total sample (n=600)
When looking at packaging or marketing, what tells her a product is definitely NOT for her? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 When looking at haircare packaging, merchandising (i.e. store displays), or marketing, what are some key words / phrases, images or ingredients that make you think "this is definitely NOT for me" Total sample (n=600)
What tells her a product is definitely NOT for her? Chemical, unfamiliar, or unnatural ingredients (other or unspecified) 12% White or non black person shown 11% Mentions perm, relaxer, straightening 7% Shows/mentions hair that is straight/wavy/long/blonde 7% Alcohol 5% Sulfates 4% For fine/thin hair 3% When evaluating haircare product packaging, marketing, Certain product types (eg dry shampoo, mousse, weave) 3% and merchandising INREDIENTS are one of the Nappy/bad hair 2% primary cues African American women use to determine For “all hair types” 2% that a product is NOT for them. Specific ingredients Parabens 2% include alcohol (5%), sulfates (4%), parabens (2%), For oily hair 2% petroleum (1%) and silicon (1%). 13% also mentioned Silky / shiny other or unspecified chemical, unnatural, or unfamiliar 2% ingredients. Product that will strip moisture (including super clean / removes build-up) 2% Certain natural ingredients I don’t agree with 2% Not my texture/style (general) 2% They are likely to evaluate as unsuitable products Kinky hair / coarser texture than own 2% showing a white or non-black model, those showing or mentioning hair that is straight, long, or blonde, and For natural hair 1% products mentioning perm/relaxer/straightening (for Too expensive 1% women with natural hair). Mentions volume / volumizing 1% Non-applicable benefits (eg frizz reduction, dandruff) 1% Other less obvious cues include products that are Moisture 1% specified as being for fine or thin hair, for “all hair Petroleum 1% types”, for oily hair, or that mention boosting volume. Lightweight or water based 1% Grease 1% Silicon 1% . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 When looking at haircare packaging, merchandising (i.e. store displays), or marketing, what are some key words / phrases, images or ingredients that make you think "this is definitely NOT for me" Total sample (n=600)
Product cue differences across demographic groups Cues that a product is definitely for me Cues that a product is definitely NOT for me • Women with 4C hair are more likely to look for natural • Women with type 3 hair or above are more likely to be ingredients and/or specific ingredients. turned off by products that show or mention straight or wavy, blonde or long hair, and those which show images • “Textured” hair is a term that was predominantly on non-black women. mentioned by women with 3A/B/C hair. • These factors are also more likely to dissuade • Women with natural hair look for moisturizing claims and consideration amongst women with natural than products that are natural/organic or formulated for chemically altered hair textures. natural hair. • Alcohol and sulfates are avoided more commonly by • Women with chemically altered hair are less concerned women with natural hair textures. with products being natural/organic or having natural ingredients, however they are likely to have specific • Younger women are more likely to have specific ingredients they look for, such as cocoa butter, shea ingredients that that tell them a product is not suitable butter, and olive oil. They are also more likely to look for (alcohol, sulfates, parabens), while older women were terms like growth, smooth/shine, and for all hair types more likely to make more general references to unnatural, chemical, or unfamiliar ingredients. • Older women (60+) are most likely to look products that explicitly state they are for African American women and/or show images of African American women, while young women are more likely to look for words that describe their hair texture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
ONE THIRD of African American women are occasionally or often o f fe n d e d o r t u r n e d o f f by communications from hair and beauty products, brands, or retailers Often 8% Occasionally 27% Rarely or never 65% . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Thinking about communication (eg advertising, social media, packaging, etc) you see from hair and beauty products, brands, or retailers how often do you find it offensive, or it turns you off? Total sample (n=600)
Women are offended or turned off by: Lack of diversity or False or misleading product Implying natural hair is Cliches and stereotypes in misrepresentation claims problematic imagery “When they only show one shade of black “Advertisements that say you need a product “The one thing that really infuriates me is women which is light skin women in particular to tame your hair texture.” “I don't think you have to put an African flag when I see a model on a hair care package or mixed girls” on the bottle or show a woman wearing an commercial where they talk about how great African hair covering to imply they know the product is for your hair, and the model is “It turns me off when advertisements “Some brands will advertise that their about Black hair. It's frankly offensive.” wearing a wig. I hate that.” suggests that my hair needs to change its products are for all hair types when the natural state.” commercial doesn't even show all hair types especially in the African spectrum” “Not offensive, but annoying. Hair and “It’s weird to market products for poc using beauty companies try to communicate that bottles that are brown like the target their product(s) are natural and for every “They make it seem like it bad to have natural audience” “Most of them use pictures of females with a type of hair, but it's untrue.” hair.” lighter complexion and straight hair to promote their business” “Product tries to make you believe if you use it you cab have the same look as the models” Offensive terms Attempts to profit Just because it doesn’t apply Racial insensitivity “I would find it irritating if the product “When brands who've always catered to white “When I see only white women or black “When they put word black /white. Everything described hair types just the way the women suddenly try to get the black women with loose curly hair in the shouldn't be about race” community defined it as: kinky and bad hair.” woman's purse” communication, that turns me off. It shows me that the product is likely not going to “When i see an advert that is not sensitive to “When I see a sign that indicates the products work for me.” “Companies that are not black owned other races besides the ones they are are for people of color. I want to ask what profiting from black people.” “I see hair textures and skin tones that do not representing it turns me off” color do you need to be to use these apply to me, so I will not be able to use their . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . products.” products.” 55
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