KEBABS ON FAMOUS BRITISH STREETS - THE VOICE OF THE UK KEBAB INDUSTRY Issue No. 3 - Britshish
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T HE VOIC E O F TH E UK K EBA B I N D UST RY I ss u e No. 3 KEBABS ALL ABOARD ON FAMOUS A LONDON BUS, DESTINATION: DONER! BRITISH BRITAIN'S FIRST STREETS DONER KEBAB SHOP BritShish investigates kebabs IS CHLORINATED on Manchester's Curry Mile CHICKEN REALLY SAFE?
WELC OME IN THIS ISSUE Is online delivery 05 Food businesses future put at risk by Migration proposal good for takeaways? T he online delivery problem is the commission 08 The first doner kebab market is the delivery companies shop in the UK growing in put in the contract can be importance, up to 25% of the order - but relations between then there’s the admin restaurants, takeaways fee, service charge and 10 Eating doner on board a London bus and the delivery companies they work with then after you put on VAT, it comes out about are becoming increasingly 30-35%. In a takeaway strained. situation that’s a staggering 13 The kebab industry revolution: German Doner Kebab Some delivery services charge high commission fees of up to 30%, amount. We also lost many of our long time customers after we while many takeaway owners also have started to work with delivery feel they are losing money on online companies” collection orders made by regular Today, Just Eat effectively 17 The competition authority investigate delivery market customers through these providers. One well-established takeaway dominates the entire UK market, listing more restaurants on its service owner from Kent told BritShish: than both its young competitor "At first I thought my business had Deliveroo and the recently arrived increased. Then I realized that I had American contender Uber Eats 20 UK food poisoning cases higher than previous year been serving people who had mostly already been my customers for years. We are paying the fine for not having combined. Just Eat delivery to 29520 restaurants and takeaways as Deliveroo has 16383 and Uber Eats a good website, in a sense, by taking has 7578 partners. the distributor company as a partner This growth is set to continue as 22 Chlorinated chicken to our existing long-time business." the company announced earlier in and UK market Despite running a busy shop with June that restaurants with their own orders constantly coming in online, delivery riders can join the Deliveroo some of the owners claim they’ve platform, which they predict could add been running at a loss due to the fees 5,000 new restaurants to the service. 24 Kebabs on the curry mile of Manchester charged by Just Eat and Deliveroo. Some owners have also claimed Online order and delivery giants are now an indispensable part of takeaways are having to lay off the UK food market and integral to members of staff as they struggle to the way many Britons eat every day. 31 Taste a kebab from Balkans make ends meet. The costs of working through However, these large services would do well to take a more sympathetic, delivery companies have forced supportive and accommodating some food business owners to approach to many of the SMEs who 44 As the UK Brexits, kebabs remain remove their shops and restaurants from the site entirely despite fears use their platforms, if they don’t everybody stands to lose out. about how this could impact sales. Speaking to BritShish another Best, 46 Mental Health in the industry shop owner said: “We are quite a busy shop in North London, but the Timur Ekingen www.britshish.com ~ BritShish Publishing Editors: Timur Ekingen - timur@britshish.com, Edward Rowe, Michael Daventry ~ Design & Production Ekrem Yilmaz, Firat Hayta Contributors Elif Sule Keles, Ceren Gunel, Leyla Alp, Ozlem Aytekin, Erman Koparan ~ Advertising & Sales Zeynep Fesli, zeynep@britshish.com Published By BritShish Limited ~ 7a Grovelands Road, N13 4RJ ~ Tel 020 8886 2999 ~ Email info@britshish.com BRITSHISH 3
INFO FEAT URE Home Office Secretary Priti Patel’s plans to introduce a post-Brexit Australian- style points system after free movement between the UK and EU officially ends after 31st December 2020. Food industry condemns new immigration regulations T he food and drink sector is The Home Office also claims workers essential to the production up in arms over scheduled that the new immigration regime of huge array of basic foodstuffs government reforms to “will give top priority to those with such as cheese, pasta, and sausages. Britain’s immigration the highest skills and the greatest While we are committed to system. Industry bodies and talents, including scientists, promoting the use of automation business owners have condemned engineers and academics.” and technology in our sector, the Home Offfice Secretary Priti Patel’s In a response to the government’s benefits of such innovations will plans to introduce a post-Brexit plans, the Policy Manager not be felt overnight and some food Australian-style points system of industry representative chain roles remain challenging to after free movement between the organisation the Food and Drink automate. With the employment UK and EU officially ends after 31st Federation (FDF) Mark Harrison rates and high vacancy levels, December 2020. drew attention to key issues caused we believe a route for entry-level In a statement published on 18 by the legislation that could affect workers should be introduced which February, the Home Office said businesses throughout the sector. retains control of immigration the new system “will assign points “The food and drink industry is while also supporting business for specific skills, qualifications, reliant on workers at all skill levels” needs, incentivising upskilling, salaries or professions and visas will he said, “We have concerns about and boosting productivity.” only be awarded to those who gain access to those potential employees Prior to this statement, the FDF’s enough points … and will end the who won't qualify through these CEO Ian Wright denounced Priti reliance on cheap, low-skilled labour 'skilled' routes such as bakery Patel’s plans as “ludicrous” and coming into the country.” assistants, meat processors, and a “terrible, terrible mistake”. BRITSHISH 5
FEAT URE the system comes into effect). This is disastrous, as a large proportion of the hospitality industry in the UK is currently staffed and run by highly skilled employees with a non-UK background. The current staffing crisis (not enough applicants and a lot of job vacancies) will worsen. Under the new system, 19 out of 34 of our current staff would not have qualified to work in the UK; if the new system does come into effect, we foresee significant problems in filling our vacancies and running our business.” According to Ms Kiazim if Restaurant owners have also be able to experience the kind of restaurant and other hospitality spoken out over the controversial service they offer, and would ask business owners want to support reforms. The co-owners of popular her to remove the ‘low-skilled’ label hercampaign, “Signing the petition Shoreditch-based fine-dining they would be given in the new visa is a great start, and sharing the Turkish restaurant Oklava, Selin system and make it possible for them petition amongst followers on Kiazim and Laura Christie have and other (future) staff members Instagram and customers and staff started a campaign to amend the to migrate to the UK for hospitality would really help. We are thinking proposed system. work. about the next step, and will keep “We started our campaign about one The industry’s diversity is its everyone up to date on the latest week ago” Ms Kiazim told BritShish lifeblood; under the new visa system, developments.” on 29 February. “I say ‘campaign’, we stand to lose the hospitality The government has said that the but we actually just posted a picture industry as we know it” she said. new system will deliver on the result and short caption on Instagram When asked what she thought the of the 2016 Brexit Referendum in response to the government’s worst consequences for the food and “end free movement, reassert proposed points-based visa and drink sector, including the control of our borders and restore system and we were overwhelmed Kebab Industry, could be if the new public trust.” by the support in the hospitality immigration regime comes into Readers can find the petition on the community. Because of this wave of effectshe also told BritShish that BritShish website on the below link: support, we decided to take it further “for UK restaurants at largethe new https://britshish.com/restaurant- and start a petition to ask Priti Patel visa system will mean there will be no owners-campaign-to-revoke-priti- and her government to revoke 1) the new migrants who will qualify to work patels-categorisation-of-unskilled- categorisation of hospitality work as inthe UK hospitality industry (once hospitality-workers/ ‘low-skilled’ and 2) the points-based system which would see a steep decline in migration of hospitality workers from around the globe to the UK (as they would not qualify for entry under the government’s new system).” The chef and businesswoman also explained that Oklava is trying to change the Home Office’s perception of hospitality workers as ‘low’ or ‘unskilled.’ “We have written a letter to Ms Patel in the Evening Standard, asking her to come have dinner at our restaurant, Oklava. We would love for her to come visit, and see for herself the kind of skills our supposed ‘low-skilled’ staff have up our sleeves. We value our staff, their diversity, and their commitment to their jobs; we would like her to BRITSHISH 7
HODJA NASREDDİN “The UK's first ever doner kebab shop” W ith the doner kebab, which has become the symbol of the immigration of Turks in Europe, especially in Germany, in fact the British are more likely to have met before. Because thousands of Turks and Greeks who migrated from the island of Cyprus, which was once the colony of Britain, to England, did not delay in carrying culinary cultures, including kebab, to this country. Many Turkish Cypriots moved to London after the tensions in postcolonial Cyprus. Cyprus was a British colony between 1878 and 1960, however when this influence ended with the withdrawal of troops between 1960- 61, well-paid jobs tied to the army also disappeared. The implementation of the Commonwealth Immigration Act of 1962 saw a great many former British subjects take up the economic opportunities presented in the UK. It was not only Turkish Cypriots who including Barbara Stresiand, who made the move, Greek Cypriots also continues his music life in London, is started to occupy the more northern the founder of the first doner kebab parts of Green Lanes, which stretches business known in Britain. from central to north London. Hodja Nasreddin was the first After a while, food businesses with doner kebab enterprise on record in kebabs began to appear in London the UK having opened on Newington and other British cities. Some of the Green in 1966. Owners Cetin Bukey Cypriots working in the production and wife Konjay Huseyin believed areas of the big part, such as textiles, doner would be as popular in the started to open restaurants where UK as it was in Turkey, Cyprus and they offer their traditional flavors and Germany. They were right. Hodja meeting point for the society. Nasreddin was to become something However, the story of doner kebab, of a bohemian food outlet for which different from shish and those looking for a different eating consisting of spiced lamb cooked on a experience. Turkish presence wasn’t spit and served in slices, typically with as visible as it was in Germany at pitta bread, has a more sophisticated the time and the spinning meat was feature. A saxophone and clarinet slower to take hold, which added to artist named Çetin Bükey, who the restaurant’s allure as accompanies his famous names, an alternative spot. 8 BRITSHISH
HISTORY Hodja Nasreddin was the first doner kebab enterprise on record in the UK Hodja Nasreddin was the first course, there has been something ever kebab shop to hit the UK high of a renaissance in Ottoman street when it opened in 1966. style traditional kebab shops on Owner, Cetin Bukey was, at the time, UK streets. Then, however, the playing clarinet and saxophone on restaurant was a rare piece of the east the London circuit when the idea in the heart of north London. came to him. He and his wife Konjay According to Konjay, coal was looked across at Turkey and noted used as cooking fuel out of necessity the popularity of Ottoman style doner because there wasn’t any electricity kebab shops, a restaurant and food available. There was never a shortage that was missing in London. They of work to be done and it was a tough were certain that London would fall slog to make the restaurant a success. in love with the dish. Konjay Huseyin, was constant Konjay’s parents had made it over support throughout, especially as to London in the 1950s - before the Cetin continued playing London’s first wave of Turks started coming music scene. His musical artistry was over from Cyprus - and provided never exhibited at the shop but he did to young couple the support and get innovative in introducing another advice that they needed. With their element to his menu: pitta bread. help, Bukey found and purchased Pitta bread, now common feature of a small shop in between a fish and kebabs, is unique to the UK compared chip shop and pub. After some to normal fresh baked bread that refurbishment they opened Hodja Turkey’s kebab shops serve. It’s hard Nasrettin. Although pubs and fish to find a contemporary UK kebab and chips were later to become shop which will not serve their doner common associations with the doner meat and salad in pitta bread. This is kebab, Hodja Nasrettin was anything owing to Bukey’s introduction of the but just a fast food joint. In fact, the pitta onto their menu. concept that Bukeys reproduced, Cetin Bukey recalls that it took a which included shisha, was to attract while for the local community to get a bohemian crowd rumoured to used to doner meat but soon he was have included Tom Jones and doing good business with queues George Harrison. stretching along the pavement. Hodja Nasrettin’s menu also Hodja Nasrettin was, however, closed included lahmacun and baklava - to make way for Bukey’s second traditional Turkish dishes which were restaurant, Kasimpasa, on Upper rare at the time in London. Now, of Street in 1977. BRITSHISH 9
INNOVATION London bus kebab restaurant is social media sensation A newly opened Turkish the experience of eating a kebab on kebab business operating a bus without any complaints from from a classic London bus other passengers. has become a social The restaurant has received an media sensation. outpouring of love on social media The owner, Edmonton-based platforms such as Twitter and entrepreneur Firat Amara first Instagram! decided on the concept at the end One person tweeted, “So Turks of last year. He bought the bus in have turned this bus into a kebab late December, and has recently shop looooool I've seen it all now started serving up kebabs to hungry #LastStopKebab”. customers from his bright red Another expressed appreciation double decker. for the restaurant’s location being The restaurant, named “Last Stop so close to the local hospital, saying, Kebab” sits just off Bridport Street “I don’t think anyone understands on Commercial road opposite North how good of an investment this is. Middlesex University Hospital in It’s directly across North Middlesex Enfield, North London and seats Hospital and if you know the about 40 people. hospital, you know there’s nowhere Mr Amara thought that his decision to eat near it #LastStopKebab” to turn a bus into a kebab takeaway One more excited twitter user said, would distinguish his business from “Pizza Fridays are over … we have a competitors and attract attention on new place now”. social media. “I thought, everything is A popular British Turkish social running on social media” he told the media comedy channel called Metro newspaper, “If I get a double Turkishisms heralded the opening decker bus then people will share it on of the shop, posting a video of the Instagram, be interested to come and restaurant on Instagram with the will use it as an advert.” caption “Wow abi [big brother] went His efforts paid off, and the Last and turned a London bus into a Stop Kebab has already won the Kebab shop”. hearts of a large online fanbase with BritShish is looking forward to around half a million likes in the seeing the exciting and innovative short space of time since its opening. restaurant or takeaway concepts Customers are descending on Enfield that the Kebab Industry will bring from across the capital and enjoying to Britain’s culinary life next! BRITSHISH 11
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INTERVIEW How a Glasgow doner shop started the biggest chain in the Kebab Industry GDK’s Global CEO Imran Sayeed BRITSHISH 13
INTERVIEW The GDK effect: A kebab industry revolution G lasgow is the cradle of a kebabs’ quality is clear from the long Germany. The German Doner Kebab kebab concept that offers queue of eager and happy customers concept, which first started in Berlin British kebab-lovers waiting in line to get their teeth in 1989 involves serving kebabs not something different. The into one. only with healthy, quality beef or store is located on the entrance floor We sat down with GDK’s Global chicken, but also with fresh salad and of the city’s iconic former Odeon CEO, Imran Sayeed on the busy shop homemade bread. Cinema building on Renfield Street. floor packed with customers to find GDK brings delicious kebabs in Glaswegians from yellow out more about the UK’s fastest this style and is truly transforming hi-vis-clad construction workers, growing fast-casual restaurant chain. the perception of the kebab with businessmen in ties and jackets, When asked why he chose to invest UK consumers, priding themselves office staff in blouses and high heels, in the British Kebab Industry, a on their attention to detail, making to hoodie-wearing students, parents crowded market with around 20,000 sure that restaurants are always and children, all come to the gourmet businesses already operating, squeaky clean and opened with a kebab restaurant to experience the Sayeed says there is a wide space in contemporary design. The speedy UK’s latest fast-casual phenomenon. the sector for their innovative and growth of GDK, which currently has At German Doner Kebab (GDK) pioneering kebab concept that is 40 UK branches, draws attention Glasgow, work begins at 11am sharp. resonating with Millennials and to the fact that since 2016, when it The shop’s customers clamour for Gen Z consumers. entered the British market, it has kebabs made with beef, chicken Despite the doner kebab’s undoubtedly become one of the or both, cut from colossal spits of reputation in Britain as the country’s most successful food roasting doner meat and served in unhealthy staple of the drunk chains, despite the great economic flatbread wraps, lahmacun (Turkish person, Mr Sayeed explained that uncertainty of recent times. The pizzas) or handmade bread. These there is a different perception in CEO added that they have already 14 BRITSHISH
signed 370 franchise agreements Athif Sarwar. Mr Sayeed said the between the ages of 18-25, and the and are aiming to get these vision and diligence of Athif, whilst convenient “direct to your door” businesses off the ground in the next building a senior team of players delivery option has helped improve three years. He says that the growth from across the global food industry, GDK’s online presence as a modern, and interest they have generated has been key in delivering the gourmet brand. is carrying the kebab up towards brand’s ambitions in such a short During our interview with Mr becoming one of the heavyweights period of time Sayeed, we were also joined by GDK’s of the fast-casual space. Pointing out that the majority Operations Director Michael Biggins Adding that his aim is to open of businesspeople applying for and UK and Europe Managing 800 GDK stores within the next 10 the franchise are entrepreneurs Director Daniel Bunce, who spoke years, Imran qualifies his claim in the who are already operating in the about how GDK International is following way: “The kebab is a meal food industry, the GDK CEO also now opening franchise stores in that has no recognition problem. emphasises that he offers his chain the USA, Canada and the Middle We offer an authentic and high- branch owners a profitable business East, including Saudi Arabia. They quality product, from packaging to model. Imran explains that GDK also told us how the company’s UK presentation with a modern concept provides their franchisees with management team is staffed by with every detail in mind. 95 percent various kinds of assistance from experienced senior managers from beef kebabs, bread, fries and pickles product selection to personnel leading global food and beverage that we prepare especially for our training, and how to pay attention franchise brands. doner kebabs... all our products are a to both customer satisfaction and The CEO is optimistic about different concept for kebab lovers. profitability. the future of GDK. He says: “We “Our customers, who have become For Mr Sayeed, the franchise seriously believe and trust this regulars since the first tasting, come demand he has seen is the most brand, all of our UK stores are doing from all background and income striking indicator of the opportunity unbelievably well. GDK is focused groups. On weekends, our businesses that GDK can offer its stakeholders. on quality and is committed to are filled with family customers too. He adds that GDK offers its transforming people’s perception of Unlike general perceptions, we offer outlets advertising and marketing the kebab. a healthy doner. We take the utmost support by providing them with The fast-casual market is very care to ensure that this happens the potential to make big takeaway competitive with a number of brands in a business with the highest sales by cooperating with Uber but GDK brings in a new shape to the hygiene standards.” Eats and Deliveroo. One of the kebab market by offering a quality GDK is owned by Hero Brands company’s main customer bases are fresh gourmet range which is also which is led by Scottish entrepreneur social media-savvy young people a healthy kebab.” BRITSHISH 15
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ONLINE TAKEAWAY Amazon and Takeaway.com under investigation by competition regulator T he Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) is currently investigating Takeaway.com’s acquisition of the UK-listed food order and delivery service Just Eat for £5.9 billion. Shares in the combined company, Just Eat Takeaway, started trading on 3 February. However, the CMA’s initial enforcement order prohibits the companies from integrating or transferring ownership while the CMA considers the competition implications of the deal. This means in practice that the companies cannot transfer business secrets or knowledge, make changes or transfers of key staff and cannot share information technology and customer and supplier lists for as long as the enforcement order is in place. The central issue in both the competition in two ways. Takeaway.com and Just Eat are Amazon/Deliveroo and Just Eat/ Firstly, the CMA is concerned that also obliged to report separately to Takeaway.com mergers is whether the deal could damage competition the CMA every fortnight to confirm the deal would prevent a large new in online restaurant food delivery compliance with the order. When entrant from entering the UK food by discouraging Amazon from merging, companies can choose to delivery market. With operations in re-entering the market in the UK. formally notify the CMA of a merger, 11 European countries, Takeaway. Currently, there are only a small and in doing so avoid the risk of the com is one of Europe’s biggest number of companies that act as the deal being investigated at a later players and the CMA has stated that middle-man between restaurants stage, Takeaway.com chose not “Takeaway.com could have been and customers, and Amazon offered to do this. well-placed to enter the UK market this service in competition with The CMA will most likely factor the if the merger hadn’t happened, and Deliveroo until 2018, when it exited growing trend of consolidation in the compete with Just Eat.” the market. Although Amazon food delivery market into its decision If the CMA does approve the Just closed down its Amazon Restaurants – Just Eat/Hungry House, Takeaway/ Eat/Takeaway.com merger, Just Eat business, the CMA believes evidence Delivery Hero, Uber Eats/Zomato Takeaway will become one of the uncovered in Amazon’s internal and Caviar/DoorDash to name a few. largest food delivery companies in the business documents shows a strong, The UK market is already dominated world and the merger will be one of continued interest in this sector and by three key players including UK’s largest tech deals in recent years. a material likelihood that Amazon Deliveroo, Just Eat and Uber Eats. At The CMA is also investigating would look to re-enter. Given the present, Amazon’s planned minority Amazon’s investment in Deliveroo limited number of existing suppliers, stake in Deliveroo, Just Eat’s biggest around serious concerns raised by the CMA found that the potential British rival, is under a Phase II the deal around competition for UK re-entry by a supplier such as review over concerns it could harm customers. The initial investigation Amazon would significantly increase competition in both the restaurant has revealed that the investment competition in online restaurant delivery and online grocery sectors. in its current form could harm food delivery in the UK. BRITSHISH 17
ONLINE TAKEAWAY Secondly, the CMA is concerned that the deal could also damage competition in the emerging market for online convenience grocery delivery, where the 2 companies have already established market-leading positions. Again, there are only a small number of suppliers offering the “ultra-fast” delivery of groceries in the UK. Although several supermarkets and online food platforms are experimenting with convenience grocery delivery, Amazon and Deliveroo – both of whom have UK-wide delivery networks to support their operations – are 2 of the strongest players in this market at present. the UK competition probe which in 2018 to be worth almost £11 billion. While there are some differences threatens to bring down the retail Amazon’s UK business, in addition to in the services that Amazon and giant's multimillion-dollar investment its wider Amazon.co.uk marketplace, Deliveroo offer to customers, into the UK delivery start-up. includes a wide range of grocery the CMA found that competition According to reports, the two firms offerings through Amazon Prime, between them could increase in will argue that the CMA's ongoing Prime Now, Amazon Fresh, and future as the market develops. investigation is "speculative" and Whole Foods Market. Amazon and Deliveroo are lacks in evidence. Amazon reported The deadline for the CMA’s preparing to fight back against its UK net sales from its online store investigation is 11 June 2020. 18 BRITSHISH
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FSA research suggests new higher estimates for the role of food in UK illness A round 2.4 million cases to food in Britain. In addition, foodborne illness occur each year” of foodborne illness occur according to the research, which the FSA said in a statement” the every year in the UK, a investigated the main virus FSA said in a statement. scientific review published transmission pathways, eating “This work gives us a much better by the Food Standards Agency out accounts for around 37% of idea of the role of food in the spread (FSA) has estimated. The new figure all foodborne norovirus cases, of all infectious intestinal disease has more than doubled in the last takeaways appear to be responsible in the UK. However, this does not decade, with illness estimates up for around 26%, while open-headed mean more people are getting 1.5 million, from approximately one lettuce, raspberries and oysters on unwell, only that we estimate food is million in 2009. retail sale causean estimated 30%, responsible for more existing cases The public health body is also 4%, and 3% respectively. than previously thought”adds the publishing a new five-year study The agency has said that the new FSA’s, Chief Scientific Adviser, investigating the extent to which research around norovirus figures Guy Poppy. the norovirus is carried in food. The has helped them to reach the new “Although the percentages research was led by a team of British total foodborne illness estimates of may appear striking, the risk scientists and is being followed 2.4 million a year. to consumers remains very low up by a further FSA paper to “The revised foodborne norovirus for most of these pathways. For review and update the assessment estimate, combined with better example, on average, an individual developed during the project. analysis of how many illnesses of would only end up with norovirus The research has revealed that unknown cause are also likely to once in every 15,000 portions of every year approximately 380,000 be caused by food, suggest around open-headed lettuce – that would norovirus cases are connected 2.4 million estimated UK cases of take around 40 years.” 20 BRITSHISH
FO OD SAFETY Concern about food safety in UK food outlets T he Food Standards Agency (FSA) has published its ‘Public Attitudes Tracker Survey Wave 2019’ results. The FSA surveys consumers in England, Wales and Northern Ireland. The top food safety issues of concern for those surveyed were: • Chemicals from the environment, such as lead, in food (32%) • Food hygiene when eating out (31%) • The use of pesticides to grow FOOD ISSUES OF CONCERN food (31%) • Food poisoning (28%) The top wider food issues The top food safety issues The top wider food issues of concern were: of concern were: of concern were: • Food waste (57%) • The amount of sugar in food (53%) 1 Chemicals from the environment, 1 Food waste (57%) such as lead, in food (32%) • Animal welfare (50%) • Food prices (44%) 2 Food hygiene when eating out (31%) 2 The amount of sugar in food (53%) • The amount of salt in food (42%) According to the survey awareness 3 The use of pesticides to grow food (31%) 3 Animal welfare (50%) of different types of food poisoning has gradually increased in the 4 Food poisoning (28%) 4 Food prices (44%) last two years. While awareness of salmonella (now 92%) and e-coli 5 The amount of salt in food (42%) (86%) were already relatively high, awareness of norovirus (60%) and listeria (61%) have increased by FOOD POISONING eight and 15 percentage points since November 2017. Also 45% of respondents reported Salmonella and E. Coli were the most 81% of respondents thought that they concern about food safety in commonly known type of food poisoning were most likely to get food poisoning from UK restaurants, pubs, cafes and (92% and 86% respectively), followed by raw chicken and turkey, followed by shellfish Listeria (61%) and Norovirus (60%). (57%) and reheated takeaway (50%). takeaways. 40% of respondents reported concern about food safety in UK shops and supermarkets. Reported concern has continued to ATTITUDES TOWARDS THE FOOD SYSTEM decrease slightly over time, indicating a general decline in concern about food safety in UK food outlets. were either always confident or agreed that the authorities are The majority reported that they 80% confident most of the time that food is 62% effectively preventing and detecting trust that food is what it says it is what it says it is and accurately labelled food fraud and is accurately labelled (78%) and 76% trusted the authenticity of said that they thought that the food agreed that the people who produce ingredients/origin/quality of food. 65% 61% and supply food make sure it is safe, system was regulated fairly honest and ethically approved. Findings also demonstrated that 83% of respondents felt they had reported that they have enough enough information about what food 83% information about what food contains contains to make their food choices. to make their food choices BRITSHISH 21
INDUSTRY NEWS Chlorinated chicken is food safety “short-cut” says Poultry Council T he British Poultry Council has said washing chicken with chlorine is a “short- cut” when it comes to food safety. The national trade body that represents the UK poultry meat industry, told BritShish that “British poultry producers don’t dip their chicken carcasses in chlorine as we do not believe in ‘cleaning up at the end’ or taking any short-cuts when it comes to producing safe food. Using chemicals to disinfect food at the end of a production process can hide a multitude of sins, but what it can't hide is the need for their use in the first place.” The comments come against the “That is why we are calling for chlorine-washing gives American backdrop of a potential post-Brexit a Government-wide commitment producers an excuse for having trade deal between the United that production standards of poor hygiene and animal welfare Kingdom and United States, which imported food will have to meet practices on farms and at other if successfully concluded, could British standards as a condition of parts of the supply chain. Poultry see chlorinated chicken enter entry. We look forward to engaging cleaned in this way is currently British markets. constructively with Government over illegal in the EU. The Poultry Council also told the coming months to ensure that In turn the US has said this ban BritShish that Britain should not we don’t come compromise on our lacks scientific evidence and has lower its own food and animal welfare high standards of production and accused the EU of pursuing a standards to gain foreign trade accept trade products that do not policy of protectionism in favour beyond the European Union. “British meet our current standards of food of European poultry producers. farmers have worked incredibly hard production” the organisation added. The UK Government has insisted to build a food system that enhances However, a report from the free that chlorine-washed chicken and British food values and ensures market think tank the Adam Smith beef that has been treated with high standards of production from Institute has claimed that the hormones would be kept out of farm to fork” the representative American meat producers’ practice British markets even if Britain body said, “As a nation we demand of immersing poultry in chlorine reaches a deal with the US. The safe, wholesome, and nutritious dioxide solution drastically reduces Secretary for Environment, Food food; world-class animal welfare; the prevalence of salmonella from and Rural Affairs Theresa Villiers production that respects the 14% to 2% in controls, compared with told BBC Countryfile in January environment; food that is affordable 15-20% among EU chicken samples. that “There are legal barriers to and available; and a sustainable and The use of the solution has been a the imports and those are going to secure supply chain. It is vital that major point of contention between stay in place.” Prior to this the Defra we don’t lower our food standards, the EU and US in trade negotiations. Secretary had considered slapping of which animal welfare is an integral The EU has expressed concerns that tariffs on any future American part, in pursuit of new trade deals. the use of cleaning methods like chicken and beef imports. 22 BRITSHISH
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BRITSHISH INVESTIGATES Kebabs on the Curry Mile 24 BRITSHISH
SOME INTERESTING CURRY MILE FACTS 01 02 03 The Curry Mile has been There are more than 80 According to Rabnawaz Akbar, Manchester’s South Asian dining restaurants, takeaways, sweet the Councillor for Rusholme, destination since the 1960s. shops and shisha places along over 200 languages spoken Sanam, which opened in 1963, is the not-quite-a-mile strip of in the area, mainly Bengali, the oldest surviving restaurant Wilmslow Road that runs Persian, Arabic, Kurdish from that period. through Rusholme. and Urdu. 04 05 06 The Curry Mile is the title of a The BBC has suggested Almost all the kebab shops novel written by Zahid Hussain renaming the street the 'Kebab offer a huge variety of fresh, in 2006. The book is set on Mile' because 70% of its homemade foods at any Wilmslow Road and charts the restaurants now serve Middle time of day at extremely life of a Pakistani family in the Eastern cuisine including low prices, sometimes as restaurant trade. shawarma and other kebabs. cheap as £2.50. T he “Curry Mile” is one of Manchester’s best- known landmarks. So- called because of the historic dominance of South Asian restaurants, takeaways and curry houses found on the mile-long strip along Wilmslow Road in central Rusholme, the Curry Mile is home to at least 70 eateries. This iconic feature of Britain’s third most populous city is frequented regularly by a variety of locals, especially students because of its location near the Oxford Road and Fallowfield Campuses of the University of Manchester, Xaverian College and the Oxford Road or All Saints campus of the Manchester Metropolitan University. The origins of the mile can be traced back to the heyday of the British textile industry. The mile began with the social habits of the thousands of workers who came to the UK from South Asia— present-day India, Pakistan and Bangladesh— to meet the demand for labour in the 1950s. Many of these workers regularly spent their BRITSHISH 25
LO CAL FEAT URE LIFE BRITSHISH INVESTIGATES spare time frequenting cafes on Wilmslow Road before founding restaurants, takeaways and other shops of their own on the street. A generation on, by the 1980s the title “Curry Mile” was in common usage to describe the road, which from then on was characterised by these establishments. At its peak, there were more than 50 curry houses on the strip, predominantly serving a variety of South Asian cuisine. In recent years however, the Curry Mile has seen some changes of its own. Kebabs are fast becoming the second meal of choice on this stretch despite its bearing the name of another popular dish. Around a third of the takeaway businesses now trading on the road serve kebabs and many of these have origins in the Middle East rather than India, Pakistan or Bangladesh. A significant number of the new Rebwar traders and staff on the street come Today Fresh Shawarma from Iraqi, Kurdish, Turkish or Despite appearing to be a small Syrian backgrounds, while others business from the outside, the are from Afghanistan. Many of these huge chicken shawarma and businesses are changing the face of freshly baked bread has made the street by serving shawarma, a Today Fresh Shawarma incredibly variant of the iconic kebab dish made popular. Originally from Iraq and from meat cooked on rotating spits. of Kurdish heritage, the chef Shawarma is popular in many Arab- Rebwar has lived in UK for the last majority countries and is known by 15 years. Today Fresh Shawarma different names elsewhere such as are particularly proud of their own “doner” in Turkey and “gyros” handmade shawarma spits, and in Greece. the variety of customers these Many kebab businesses that attract is a testament to the taste! serve shawarma on the mile actually prepare the meat spits in-house. Almost none of the traders buy 26 BRITSHISH
MEET THE CURRY MILE’S NEW GENERATION OF KEBAB BUSINESSES Nabi and Ahmad Chris Hasim Afghan Cuisine Kitchen Rules Antalya Cafe Afghan Cuisine is one of the Kitchen Rules is the only Greek Hasim is from originally from oldest Afghan establishments place on the strip and the only Tokat, Turkey but has lived on the street. While the business where shawarma is known in the UK for two and a half restaurant has simple décor, by its Greek name “gyros.” The decades. He has worked at it’s the quality food that brings business-owner Chris, has 25 years the Antalya kebab restaurant in large numbers of customers of experience in the food industry and shisha house for the last on a regular basis from and opened his latest project a year few years. The restaurant that period. and a half ago. In addition to the was founded by a Turkish gyros kebab, Kitchen Rules offers entrepreneur, but has since eye-catching homemade Greek been sold on to a new owner appetizers and desserts. from Afghanistan. BRITSHISH 27
BRITSHISH INVESTIGATES ready-made doner meat from manufacturers. The traditional Middle Eastern shawarma wraps on sale tend to be quite cheap because of the large local student population; some businesses even sell their kebabs at prices as low as £2.50. Many of the shops also bake their own flatbreads on site as well. Thousands of people flock from all over Manchester to the mile every weekend. Other than students, the majority of people visiting the strip tend to be from South Asian and Muslim backgrounds. Large numbers of Muslims regularly specialist menu offering traditional come from neighbouring cities to Sahin Turkish grilled kebab specials and the Curry Mile during the Islamic Sultanahmet mezes. The restaurant opened festivals of Eid al-Adha and Eid al- Unlike in London and other parts just three years ago but has Fitr to enjoy the mile’s many delights. of England, Sultanahmet is the expanded its premises after huge Alongside the new kebab only Turkish restaurant where demand from customers. Sahin, restaurants, the street’s many new dozens of kebab types are sold one of the business partners shisha cafes have also started to give in its locality. The two-storey who own Sultanahmet also runs ita more Middle Eastern feel. Popular establishment, a branch of the Café Istanbul, which is one of among the youth, these shisha cafes famous chain Sultanahmet Manchester's longest established are often open late, with some even Köftecisi (meatball restaurant) restaurants, having served authentic open 24 hours. in Istanbul’s historical peninsula, Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine Despite the decline in curry is the only business with a for nearly 40 years. house numbers in recent years, and the growth of newer often Middle Eastern businesses, the mile is still considered the go-to Alan Ahmad & Ali Abdul place for the best curry in Britain. Manchester Fresh One thing that cannot be denied Shawarma however is that kebab restaurants The young Iraqi Kurdish owners of and takeaways have also built up Manchester Fresh Shawarma Alan a strong presence of their own the and Ali first opened their business street. BritShish took to the streets in 2018. They say their style of to introduce readers to some of the making shawarma is completely Kebab Industry traders, staff and different from traditional doner businesses now serving customers kebabs in terms of its taste and along the strip. This all begs the recipe. Alan and Ali are also skilled question, “could the Curry Mile in flat breadmaking to give their become Manchester’s ‘Kebab Mile’ dishes a more authentic flavour. one day?” 28 BRITSHISH
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KEBAB WORLD Ćevapi: The Kebab of the Balkans A lthough the kebab is recipe for Bosnian-style ćevapi. often associated with the “Ćevapi is really delicious,” says Mediterranean, Middle Qaza who runs Balkan Taste, a East and South Asia, there West London café, burger joint and is a relatively unknown, centuries-old pizzeria that also serves traditional kebab tradition with firm roots in Balkan dishes. “There are lots of Europe too. options from all over the Balkans. Ćevapi is a grilled meatball kebab In Albania we make it with lots of dish found across the Balkans. The herbs, which we actually put inside dish usually consists of several the meatballs while preparing them. meatballs on a plate or in flatbread After that we grill them on charcoal called somun or lepinje with sour to really release all the flavour,” he cream, a clotted cream known as adds. The diner, which is located kajmak, a pepper-based sauce called on College Road, just a short walk ajvar, cottage cheese, red pepper from Harrow on the Hill station, and salt. gives customers the chance to Ćevapi is considered a national enjoy the mouth-watering Balkan dish by several countries including kebab wrapped in flatbread in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia the classic fashion. and Romania and is also enjoyed as As Qaza explains, ingredients vary a traditional meal in other Balkan from country to country. There can countries including Albania, Kosovo, also be differences within countries Bulgaria, Croatia, Montenegro, as well. Owing to the country’s mixture of all three. Slovenia and North Macedonia significant Muslim population, The origins of ćevapi can be traced (where they call it “kebapi”). Bosnian-style ćevapi is usually made back to the Ottoman Empire which The dish is growing in popularity from minced halal beef, veal, mutton first established a presence in the in the UK too, and has even attracted or lamb, sometimes combining more Balkans in the 14th century. The attention from international culinary than one of these. In largely Christian Ottomans ruled much of the region household names such as Jamie Serbia on the other hand, the dish until several countries including Oliver who has released his own is made with beef, pork, lamb or a Serbia, Romania and Albania gained independence and Bosnia was annexed by Austria-Hungary during the 19th and 20th centuries. The empire’s legacy however is still visible in many Balkan countries today, particularly when it comes to cuisine. The Ottoman Turks’ culinary influence is shown in that the word “ćevapi” itself is derived from “kebap” the Turkish word for kebab. The dish particularly resembles köfte, a popular Turkish meatball, enjoyed in kebabs throughout Turkey to this day. Other dishes common throughout the Balkans such as dolma (stuffed vegetables) and the popular dessert pastry baklava also have roots in the Ottoman period. BRITSHISH 31
FO OD Endo Sweets releases new frozen dessert range T he renowned European food sector supplier Endo Ekin has expanded its product range to include a selection of frozen desserts. The experienced international company which is well-known for producing a variety of savoury, baked and meat products including frozen chips, kofte kebab meat, chicken burgers, tortilla wraps and a selection of sauces to name a few, has branched out and is now offering a variety of frozen cake types. Endo introduced its new product range boasting a diverse selection of dessert products to customers during a special launch event. The firm of the country’s best-known development team and support from presented several cake and pastry and well-established dessert various food and drink sector experts. types to guests at the launch, which makers. The goods are frozen All of Endo’s products are made was attended by numerous wholesalers and then transported to different in a hygienic environment in from London and other UK cities. countries including the UK. Endo's accordance with health and safety The director at Endo is especially hundreds of dessert products requirements. Their first priority keen to strengthen and enlarge the include chocolate cake and other is to maintain effectiveness and company’s customer base within common dessert types such as continuously improve in line with the Kebab Industry including tiramisu and cheesecake, as well BRC, HACCP, Halal Production takeaways, restaurants, suppliers as Turkish speciality cakes made and Quality Management System and wholesalers. Endo’s main goal with traditional ingredients such as standards which enable their is to offer current and prospective pistachio, tahini and mastic. customers to enjoy their products clients in the Restaurant and food Endo chose to create a mixed safely. The company also takes Industry the opportunity to feature product range after investigating measures to ensure that any alternative products that enrich their dessert and cake trends in the UK potential environmental impact is businesses’ menus with sweet options with a with a strong research and considered during production. that complement their main courses. Offering delicious and fresh desserts and cakes suitable for all tastes, Endo Ekin also serves wholesale businesses with its wide distribution fleet consisting of refrigerated vehicles. The company, which has already delivered its products to thousands of companies across the country and in Europe, first started to produce desserts after recognising the intense demands for suitable sweet options from its customers. Endo’s sweet products are manufactured at Turkey’s largest facilities, one BRITSHISH 33
AC C OUNTING Altan Kemal Altan Kemal is a Chartered named Alton & Co. (Chartered Accountant. He came to the UK Accountants & Statutory Auditors). in 1973, graduating in Business Management before qualifying and Altan is happy to answer any starting a career in accountancy. questions from BritShish readers. He subsequently founded his You can send him your questions own London-based firm in 1983, via info@britshish.com. I'm planning to carry out a wide- over the long-owned takeaway deceased's wishes or optimal from ranging redecoration project on and the supermarket next to it, a tax planning point of view. It is my restaurant. Can I deduct all my but he has a wife and children therefore always advisable to have a construction and other expenses from his second marriage. I think will to make sure all your loved ones from my VAT and tax revenues? it is more of a legal issue, but get what you want them to receive. what would you advise in terms If one is VAT registered then all of accounting? The Home Office caught two the input tax paid on the decorations illegal employees working at my can be recovered. However, relief for The option of making the business as grill chefs - they income tax purposes depends on the businesses a gift is not available have work permits but are not nature of the work being carried out. as the gift has to be made whilst allowed to work in takeaways. If the work is being carried out to the deceased was still alive. The Now lawyers state that I can be maintain the earning capacity of the Inheritance Tax bill depends on fined up to £40,000. Can I pay restaurant then it may be possible the underlying circumstances and this penalty with the income of to set off all the expenses against the size of his estate. However if my workplace and show it as an income. However, if the work is held the deceased was running these expense? Also, could the Home to be improvements and therefore businesses then they should qualify Office close down my business? enhances the earning capacity of for 100% business relief. The the restaurant then the expenses danger of dying intestate (that is An employer has a responsibility will have to be capitalised. In these without having made a will) is that to check that all their employees cases, relief will only be available on the distribution of assets will be have a right to work in the UK. If they disposal of the business. Relief in the made in accordance to the statutory fail to do so then they will be subject form of Capital Allowances may be rules of intestacy. Only married or to a fine by the Home Office. The fine possible in such circumstances. civil partners and some other close will be levied on the employer. One relative can inherit under the rules is unfortunately not permitted to My father passed away some of intestacy. This can sometimes claim this payment as a tax allowable time ago from a heart attack. result in distributions which may expense. The Home Office however, He did not leave a will. I took not be in accordance with the cannot close down your business. 34 BRITSHISH
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LEGAL Hundreds of takeaways caught employing illegal immigrants M ore immigration raids were carried out in the restaurant and takeaway trade last year any other business sector in the UK. A large number of illegal workers were caught in dozens of operations organized in towns and cities, such as Hastings, Grantham, Melton, and proceedings were launched against them. According to the latest updated data of the Home Office, 1,849 penalties issued in Britain in 2019 and a total of £34.4 million fines were imposed on businesses. This number was 1,208 in 2018 and 2,337 in 2017. Mostly Chinese, Turkish and Asian worker are sent back to their country Hundreds of takeaways and restaurants have been fined a whopping. after being kept in camps for a while. £34.4 million for employing illegal immigrants over the last year. Under Home Office immigration rules businesses can be fined up to £20,000 for employing a member of staff who suspect individuals are working Home Office has a fast payment is found to be in the UK without legal without permission or legal status option which reduces the amount of status and for failing to check their to remain in the UK. ICE teams are civil penalty by 30 per cent if they immigration status. part of Immigration Enforcement receive payment in full within 21 There are no firm estimates of how Directorate (IE). They have powers days of the date of the civil penalty many people are illegally working in to interview, arrest and detain notice. The reduced penalty amount the UK or Northern Ireland. In 2015 immigration offenders found and the final date by which you the UK government estimated there working illegally. The inspection must pay it will be clearly shown on were between 190,000 and 240,000 looked at whether these powers civil penalty notice. Home Office businesses employing illegal workers were being exercised in accordance may agree that make penalty by in the UK – figures the Home Office with the law and with Home Office instalments over an agreed period described as “speculative”. But guidance. It also looked at the of time, usually up to 24 months, according to the Pew Research effectiveness of the IE team levying and exceptionally up to 36 months. Centre, The Washington-based think civil penalties against employers If the businees doesn’t pay penalty tank, there may have been between who had failed to comply with all in full or by instalments, or object 800,000 and 1.2 million unauthorised regulations. The primary focus for or appeal, by the specified due migrants living in the UK in 2017. ICE teams was enforcement visits to dates, Home Office will commence businesses, mostly restaurants and enforcement action against the Directors can be disqualified takeaways, to locate and arrest illegal business. This includes action in for employing illegal worker workers with a view to their enforced the civil court to recover the unpaid removal from the UK. Individuals penalty. This action may have an To tackle the issue, immigration found to be working illegally during adverse impact on business ability compliance and enforcement (ICE) an immigration raid may be removed to act in the capacity of a director teams visit businesses where they from the jurisdiction. in a company. 36 BRITSHISH
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