Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute

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Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
Gendercraft
Helping clients to align their gender expressions
           with their gender identities

            Gary Cordingley, MD, PhD
Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
Disclosures

• The speaker and members of the planning committee do not have a
  conflict of interest in this topic.

• There is no commercial support for this program.

• The speaker will discuss uses of hormonal medications that are well
  studied, but off-label.
Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
Many thanks for contributions and advice from:

             Carrie Chandler
             Jody Davis, RN, MSW, LISW
             Theodore Hutchinson, PhD
             Dionysus Mondlich
             Jacob Nash, MA, CDP
             Gabriel Pellikka
             Kaye Plumley, CT
             Brenda Robson
             Sarah Taylor, MA, CCC, SLP
             L. Justin Wheeler, LISW-S
             Ginger Williams

             Participants in an earlier version of this seminar
Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
Learning Objectives

• Define “passing” and provide reasons why gender-diverse people often have
  conflicted relationships with the concept.

• Describe tools available to gender-diverse people who wish to feminize or masculinize
  their presentations, including by managing hairstyle, facial hair, facial appearance, skin
  care, shoulders, chests, waists, hips, genitalia, clothing, accessories, posture,
  movement and communication.

• List methods that gender-diverse people can employ to minimize awkwardness and
  embarrassment while obtaining clothing and other materials associated with a gender
  different from the sex assigned at birth.
Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
What gendercraft is:

• A toolkit of devices, methods and skills available to people who seek gender
  expressions more consistent with their gender identities
• Analogous to “tradecraft” or “stagecraft”
• A body of knowledge for people raised in genders incongruent with their
  identities and who did not receive training and socialization consistent with their
  identities
• A means to compensate for pubescent physical changes of a sex incongruent
  with gender identity
• Helpful for both binary and non-binary trans people to individualize their gender
  expressions
• A menu from which people can choose, whether or not there is concurrent use
  of hormone or surgical treatments (though hormones and operations can affect
  the need for or the methods of gendercraft)
Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
What gendercraft is not:

• A set of procedures that anyone is required to use
• An implication that people who don’t use it are any less valid than people
       who do
• An endorsement of the binary model or a criticism of non-binary identities
• Easily found or assimilated even among those who immerse themselves in the
  trans community
Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
Disclaimer and Request

Let me be clear: I am not telling anyone what to do or how they
should live their life. If someone doesn’t like a presented idea, then
they shouldn’t use it!

What I am doing is providing options. Without knowing one’s options,
one might not make the choice that’s best for them.

This list of possibilities is not all-inclusive. Please let me know if there
are other tools of gendercraft I might capture for future revisions.
Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
Gendercraft: Why of interest to healthcare professionals?

• It is no less important in our patients’/clients’ affirmations of their authentic
  selves than use of hormones or surgeries, which sometimes attract more
  attention.
• To become aware of the issues being debated inside our patients’/clients’
  heads, as well as the awkward and difficult choices that trans people are up
  against in living their identities
• To understand that these are not automatic or effortless decisions
• To be able to offer guidance and affirmation to our patients/clients in their
  efforts to make their outsides resemble their insides
• To provide balanced advice concerning the risks and benefits of using a tool
  versus the risks and benefits of not using a tool
Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
Passing

“Passing” = being perceived as a cis-gender person in one’s identified gender.
       (Historically, this term has also been used in a racial context.)

Passing is not all-or-nothing. Environment affects one’s ability to pass. Crowded
spaces contain distractions that make passing easier. Also, success is affected by
whether other people are preoccupied with their own activities, such as in gambling
casinos, department stores or busy restaurants. In any event, few trans people pass
100% of the time, and even some cis-gender people exhibit confusing gender
signals.

Among many gender-diverse people the concept of passing stirs up conflicting emotions.
(As we will see, even the term itself is problematic.)
Gendercraft Helping clients to align their gender expressions with their gender identities - Equitas Health Institute
Trans people often feel conflicted about the concept of passing.
                     Here are arguments on either side of using gendercraft tools:

                         Against:                                                     For:
Passing seems like a form of deception.                   It’s just the opposite: it’s living one’s truth. One dresses
                                                          for self, not others. “Blending in” is a less loaded term.
It shouldn’t matter how one presents to the world.        The reality is that it often does.
The only gender police are the self-appointed ones.       The self-appointed ones can be vicious. Someone who
                                                          blends in is more safe from harassment and assault.
It can be inconvenient and expensive.                     It can be worth it. Less costly approaches are available
                                                          for most options.
It can be frustrating when efforts fall short.            Even then, efforts can be rewarding – glass half-full.
Forgoing use of gendercraft tools may be more             Using the tools can be gender-affirming and self-
acceptable to others in one’s family and social circle.   validating. Gender dysphoria can improve.
Internalized transphobia can be a barrier.                Living one’s truth fosters emotional growth.

      Ultimately, it’s up to the individual to make their own choices according to their own needs.
                                    There is no “one size fits all” model.
Gendercraft Methods: Outline
Appearance
• Managing hairstyle: taking account of the shape of the face; flattering and unflattering styles for MTF
  and FTM; hairstyles and treatment for FTM with male pattern baldness from testosterone
• Managing unwanted hair: color blocking and covering of beard; electrolysis, laser, and comparisons
• Facial appearance: skincare, makeup and eyeglasses
• Managing the silhouette of the torso: shoulders, chest, waist, hips and legs for MTF and FTM
• Managing genitalia: gaffs, tucking, packing and standing to pee
Behavior
• Posture: gender differences in standing and sitting
• Walking

Communication
• Pitch, resonance, intonation, word choice and gestures
• Active vs. passive listening

Shopping for Clothes
• Things to know before you go
• Three approaches to getting what you need
MTF Hairstyles: Optimized according to shape of the face

• Compared to cis women, trans women are more likely to have squared and long faces.
• Curly or wavy hair can compensate for angularity. Volume on the sides rounds out the
  head’s silhouette and keeps the components in proportion.
                                                                      Images from: thehairstyler.com
MTF Hairstyles: Optimized according to Shape of the Face

       These styles provide both curves and side-volume.

                               Images from: amazon.com, thehairstyler.com, thehairstyler.com
MTF Hairstyles: Optimized according to shape of the face

       Wispy bangs can compensate for high foreheads.

                  Image sources: allthingshair.com, elipsosalon.com, liebeleben.me, therighthairstyles.com
MTF Hairstyles: Choose colors harmonious with skin tone
        For many skin colors there is a discernible warm or cool tone.

                      Use this table to categorize your own:
                   Warm tones                           Cool tones
         Blood vessels on inner surface of   Blood vessels on inner surface of
         forearms are green.                 forearms are blue.
         A white sheet of paper next to      A white sheet of paper next to
         the face makes it look great.       the face makes it look terrible.
         Gold jewelry is more flattering.    Silver jewelry is more flattering.

• Example: Honey blonde goes better with warm tones; straw blonde goes with cool tones.
• Sometimes hair colorants or wigs are described as such, but not always.
• Knowing your skin tone also helps in choosing flattering colors of clothes.
MTF Hairstyles
                                 Don’t forget the eyebrows!

• Eyebrows “frame” the face and their appearance is a key component of gender expression.
• Photos of Michael Jackson illustrate common differences between masculine and feminine eyebrows
  -- masculine eyebrows are lower, flatter and bushier.
• Ideally, obtain professional help to trim and shape the eyebrows, and then maintain them at home.
• If circumstances don’t permit more extensive changes, a certain amount of grooming may still be
  possible, such as to trim the lengths of the hairs and to pluck the outliers. Comb the hairs upward
  and then downward, snipping hairs that protrude through the comb’s teeth by a chosen distance.
                                                 Images: bookwormroom.com, Sam Villa Hair Tutorials on youtube.com
MTF Hairstyles
                            Don’t forget the eyebrows!

• The diagram shows classic locations for the eyebrow to start, peak and end.
• After completion of trimming and plucking, comb the brow from its inside end to its
  outside end with a wand of clear or tinted eyebrow gel.
• While the gel is still wet, pinch the eyebrow from above and below between forefinger
  and thumb to decrease the brow’s perceived thickness.
                                                              Images: virtualffs.co.uk, amazon.com
FTM Hairstyles
       To compensate for soft, round faces, go for angles, sharp lines and edges.
              Plucking or electrolysis can square up rounded hairlines.

High and Tight      Medium/Longer Length        The Undercut                  Modern Pompadour

                                                  http://point5cc.com/four-great-haircuts-for-trans-mascftms/
FTM Hairstyles

         “This is the picture that I've consistently
         had the best luck with at hair salons. I
         bring it in and say, `Give me this,’ and even
         if it doesn't come out the same … the
         result is usually something I can live with.”

                 -- Gabriel, in his FTM Guide

                    Gabriel, The FTM’s Complete Illustrated Guide to
                      Looking Like a Hot Dude, ftmguide.rassaku.net
Hairstyles for Male Pattern Baldness (MPB) in FTM Users of Testosterone
Trans men under treatment with testosterone can develop gradual MPB, as seen in cis men.
          Some people are more susceptible to this adverse effect than others.

     Clean Shave               Buzz Cut                      Short Caesar                    Shaggy Layers

        From: Brett & Kate McKay, Balding Gracefully: Tips and Hairstyles for Balding Men
                             See: artofmanliness.com/2010/07/14/balding-gracefully-tips-and-hairstyles-for-balding-men/
Medical Treatment of MPB in FTM Users of Testosterone

• Finasteride (originally marketed in the U.S. under the brand name Propecia®) can be used
  by prescription at 1 milligram per day to counteract MPB. It is a pill, so the drug goes
  everywhere in the body, not just to the scalp. Because it blocks conversion of testosterone
  to its more potent form, dihydro-testosterone, it might reduce effectiveness of concurrent
  testosterone treatment. Trans men who might become pregnant should not use
  finasteride. (Trans men who are no longer menstruating can still become pregnant.)

• Minoxidil (originally marketed in the U.S. under the brand name Rogaine®) is available
  without prescription for topical use on the scalp. There is minimal spread of drug effects
  to other parts of the body. It is more effective for hair loss at the crown of the head than
  at the front and temple areas.

• Finasteride and minoxidil can be used in combination.

• Hair restoration surgery can also be effective.
Managing Unwanted Hair (in Any Gender)
             Color-Blocking
                     • In people with dark hair and light skin,
                       shaving does not eliminate a blue-tinted
                       shadow created by the hair remaining
                       beneath the skin’s surface.

                     • Because orange is opposite blue in the color
                       wheel, use of a light coat of orange pigment
                       (e.g. from lipstick) as the first layer of make-
                       up blocks out the blue color.

                     • Another approach is to use an opaque
                       concealer such as Dermablend®, but this
                       can create a thicker and less natural
                       appearance.
                                    Images from: transoutloud.com, HGTV.com
Managing Unwanted Hair (in Any Gender)
                          Essential Facts about Electrolysis

• An electrologist inserts a very fine needle
  into the natural opening of the hair
  follicle alongside the hair shaft. A tiny
  amount of electrical current is then
  applied to destroy the hair growth cells.

• Electrolysis can destroy the hair growth
  cells with chemical energy (galvanic
  current), heat energy (thermolysis), or
  both (blend method).

• FDA categorizes electrolysis as effective
  for “permanent hair removal.”
                                    Sources: American Electrology Association at electrology.com, silkhairremoval.com
Managing Unwanted Hair (in Any Gender)
        Essential Facts about Laser

                                  FDA categorizes laser as effective
                                  for “permanent hair reduction.”

                                         Images from: healthandmedspa.com
Managing Unwanted Hair (in Any Gender)
                          Growth Cycles Affect Both Treatments

• Hairs are constantly growing and shedding on independent schedules. After the active growth phase
  (anagen), the follicle goes through a resting phase (catagen) and then a shedding phase (telogen) during
  which the old hair falls out in preparation for growth of a new hair.

• Both electrolysis and laser work best on hairs in the growth (anagen) phase.

• Repeated treatments are needed to disable all the hair follicles as they re-enter their growth phases.
                                                                                 Images from: maximedicare.com
Let’s Compare Them

                     Image from: laserhairclinic.com
Electrolysis                                         Laser
Effectiveness      Destroys individual follicles of all hairs Effective only on pigmented hairs. Hairs must contain
                   regardless of color                        melanin in order to absorb the laser’s energy
Pain               More discomfort, especially in the        Less discomfort
                   area between the upper lip and nose
Preparation        Must grow hairs at least 1 mm long        Must shave prior to each session
                   prior to each session
Process            Electric current applied by a needle      Flashes of laser light applied to zones of skin, one
                   within follicle, one follicle at a time   zone at a time (size of zone depends on laser source)
Session Length     Multiple hours                            One hour or less

# of Sessions      Depends greatly on length of sessions At least seven. Sessions for faces are spaced about
                   and extent of clearing; produces      four weeks apart. Produces less permanent outcome;
                   more permanent outcome.               may need re-treatment.
Cost               Billed by the hour.                       Billed by the session or by package deal. Prices vary
                                                             widely. Shop around!

For people who are candidates for either method and at median prices, laser is usually less costly and goes faster.
FTM Creation of Facial Hair – Hormonal

A beard may be the most persuasive male gender marker. For trans men, use of testosterone
  is clearly effective, though the amount of growth depends on genetics, just as in cis men.
                                                        Images from: betamaxipad-tumblr.com, reddit.com
FTM Creation of Facial Hair – Non-Hormonal
Some people are successful with cosmetics or theatric tools, but using these techniques can
  be risky. If you goof, you are suddenly more obvious than if you didn’t use them at all.

1. Dark brown eyeshadow         Brushing brown mascara onto            Attaching short        Using fiber mascara to
brushed onto face; 2.           peach fuzz. Note: People who           pieces of real         create stubble.
eyeliner to thicken the         don’t use this technique are           or fake hair by
eyebrows; 3. black pigment      better off shaving their peach         means of spirit
applied to face with a          fuzz because adult males don’t         gum.
stipple sponge.                 have peach fuzz.
         Sources: Sailor Cruz on youtube.com, TheSLOfox on youtube.com, Dyson Fraser on youtube.com, Riley JustRiley on youtube.com
Skincare – it should be of interest to all genders!
(But children raised as boys might be less aware of its importance.)

•   Facial cleansers are less harsh and irritating than soaps.
•   Moisturizers promote softness and prevent chapping.
•   Sunscreens block the damaging and aging effects of UV light.
•   Skin that is well cared for provides a better canvas for applying makeup.
                                                                All images from target.com
MTF: Makeup
                         Common recommendations
• Ideally, purchase a makeover by a cosmetologist who has experience with trans
  people. Ask the cosmetologist to write down the names of the products that were
  used along with reminders of how they were applied.

• There are many youtube.com videos you can study involving both cisgender and
  transgender women.

• Take into consideration your age and the situation for which you are applying the
  makeup. Explore the space between social expectation and unrestrained individual
  expression. Experiment (and even go “over the top” on purpose). Gather feedback
  from trusted sources. Have fun!

• Practice!!!
MTF and FTM: Eyeglasses

  • Eyeglass (or sunglass) frames are another vehicle for
    masculinizing or feminizing faces.
  • Angular faces can be balanced out by rounded frames
    and round faces can be balanced out by angular frames.
  • Although many frames are unisex, some styles are more
    distinctly feminine – e.g. red, blue or multi-colored
    frames or those with cat-eye shapes.
  • Eyeglasses (and especially sunglasses) obscure or de-
    emphasize eyebrows or brow ridges that are less than
    ideal.
  • Note that men’s eyeglasses are usually bigger than
    women’s eyeglasses because of men’s larger head sizes,
    as well as greater distances between eyes and ears. Many
    frames are available in more than one size.
                           Sources: fostergrant.com, globaleyeglasses.com
MTF: Smiling
 Smiling is the greatest and most effective beauty accessory of them all.

Notice the extent to which smiling warms the faces of these trans women.
                          Sources: allure.com, endhepcsf.org, hornet.com, eurweb.com, dissolve.com, google.com
Masculine and Feminine Silhouettes
               Key points in going from one silhouette to the other

• One of the most recognizable differences is the waist-to-hip ratio.
• A healthy masculine waist-to-hip ratio is 0.9, while a healthy feminine ratio is 0.7.
• From shoulders to hips, the silhouettes can be likened to rectangles and hourglasses.
• We will direct our attention to management of the silhouette at shoulders, chest, waist, hips and
  their extensions down through the legs.
• (These are idealized silhouettes. Hormone treatment, surgery and weight gain can modify the
  silhouettes and application of gendercraft techniques.)
                                                         Images: ftmguide.rassaku.net, Kościński in openi.nlm.nig.gov
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management

          From Rectangle to Hourglass
  Unfortunately, the shoulders are not compressible.
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
      Minimizing Broad Shoulders with Necklines, Draping and Accessories

                 These styles all emphasize vertical lines, elongate the torso and
                  draw attention away from the shoulders. Cap-sleeved tops do
                  just the opposite and emphasize the shoulders. Good posture
                  can help: hold the head up and the shoulders down and back.
Images from: jjill.com, northstyle.com, northstyle.com, twighair.com, northstyle.com, dailyconnoisseur.blogspot.com and dailymail.co.uk
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
Minimizing Broad Shoulders with Necklines, Draping and Accessories

 Janet            Christine                   Carmen                              Caitlyn

                              The principle of emphasizing vertical lines to minimize
                                broad shoulders plays out with varying degrees of
                                  success in these famous transgender women.

                                 Images by: 2paragraphs.com, drchristinemcginn.com, out.com, variety.com,
  Candis          Laverne                              worldlifestyle.com, vh1.com
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
                        Padding the Chest by Filling Bra Cups

Silicone Breast Forms            Foam Breast Forms                        Birdseed in Pantyhose

                        From most expensive to least expensive

                                         Images from: truekare.com, Walmart.com and sophielynn1.blogspot.com
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
                First method for creating cleavage

• Place bra inserts at the bottoms of a push-up bra.
• Gather loose skin upward and inward.
• Obtain additional lifting and squeezing from an elevatrix underbra.

                                  Images from: fashionfirstaid.com, leonisa.com, ebay.com, dersertcart.ae
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
                         First method for creating cleavage

• A transgender woman demonstrates the steps of this procedure.
• Cleavage effectively draws the eye away from less feminine features.
                                                                    Images from: unordinarystyle.com
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
                         Second method for creating cleavage

• A similar strategy is employed with commercial cleavage makers. Over top of them, one
  wears a typical bra filled with breast forms.
• “IT STAYS®” is a roll-on body adhesive that helps maintain traction between loose skin and
  cloth garments, such as bras, and keeps the gathered skin in place.
                                                     Images from: glamourboutique.com, discountsurgical.com
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
      Third method for creating cleavage

                • NuBra® consists of two silicone pads with re-
                  usable adhesive surfaces. (Generic silicone pads
                  are also available.)
                • One pad is attached to each breast; then the
                  pads are pulled together and linked by their tabs.
                • Over top of the NuBra®, transgender women
                  often wear regular bras filled with breast forms.

                                                     Image from: nubra.com
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
                         Fourth method for creating cleavage

• Taping the chest can create cleavage by forcing loose skin upward and inward. The tape
  does not go all the way around the chest, so restriction of breathing is lessened.
• Although duct tape is often used for this technique, surgical tape is likely to be safer.
• Tape should be removed carefully in order to avoid ripping or blistering the skin.
                                                   Images from: glamourboutique.com, patientsleepsupplies.com
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
                       Fifth method for creating cleavage

         Before          After                                 Method

• Cleavage can be enhanced by means of contouring make-up.
• Light colors visually move forward and dark colors recede.
• The photo on the right illustrates the starting point, after which the make-up is blended
  to look more natural.
• This method can be combined with any of the others.
                                                                          Images from: look.co.uk
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
Decreasing the Waist with Cinchers, Diet, Exercise and (Questionably) Corset-Training

             • Just like high heels, waist cinchers might be reserved for
               special occasions.

             • Ideally, exercise programs target all the muscles of the
               abdomen and not just the “sit-up muscles” (rectus abdominis).

             • Corset-training, aka waist-training, involves prolonged use of
               progressively tightening corsets in order to re-shape the
               abdomen semi-permanently. There are no modern studies
               concerning its safety. Its use might be risky.

                                                Images by: ardyssbodymagicshop.com, catofashions.com
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
                        Creating a Higher Waist

A belted or structured waist raises it visually to a more usual female height.
(“Structured” means that the curves are built into the clothes themselves.)
                          Images by: nyandcompany.com, northstyle.com, xeuee.com, chadwicks.com (last 3)
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
                   Padding the Bottom and Expanding the Hips

         The waist-to-hip ratio is the most recognizable feature of the female torso.
One can purchase ready-made garments or save money with DIY approaches on youtube.com.
                                                 Images from: ebay.com and joyobsession.com
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
            Using Style to Widen the Hips

     Flared (A-line) skirts make the hips appear broader.
   Images by: adriannapapel.com, chadwicks.com, dillards.com, modcloth.com, dillards.com, modcloth.com
Male to Female (MTF) Torso Management
       Extending the silhouette down through the legs with tapering slacks

• Cis women often wear slacks, especially as day-wear. To blend in with cis women, one needs an
  effective strategy for wearing them.
• Skinny-leg designs are very gendered garments, particularly when paired with feminine shoes.
• By narrowing the silhouette at the ankles, they effectively broaden the silhouette of the hips.
• High-waisted (“high rise”) pants are preferable to those which are just hip-high, because they
  are less likely to creep downward as you walk.            Images: express.com, polyvore.com, denimology.com
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management

        From Hourglass to Rectangle
    Unfortunately, the hips are not compressible.
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
                               Dealing with Narrow Shoulders

• Slightly oversized shirts can disguise bulk at the chest, but excessively oversized shirts can
  make the shoulders look even smaller.
• It can be difficult to find a shirt that fits your proportions, but it is worth the hunt.
• This diagonal pattern flatters by drawing the eyes upward and outward.
                See: Gabriel, The FTM’s Complete Illustrated Guide to Looking Like a Hot Dude, ftmguide.rassaku.net
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
                           Dealing with Narrow Shoulders

• Shoulder pads don’t work well because they look fake and are more frequently used in
       women’s clothing. However, epaulets can flatter.
• Notice how well the suit jackets square up the shoulders of these trans men.
                                     Images from: ftmguide.rassuku.net, dapperq.com (second and third images)
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
                                              Weaves vs. Knits

                                 • In shirts, wear weaves instead of knits.
                                   Weaves (such as in buttoned dress shirts)
                                   are stiffer and don’t stretch, while knits cling
                                   to the curves.

                                 • Vests (waistcoats) are great. They are a
                                   weave, provide structure, and flatten the
                                   chest. They are cut for men’s bodies so they
                                   extend directly from underarms to hips,
                                   disguising curves. A tie provides plausible
                                   deniability for bulk on the chest.

Gabriel, The FTM’s Complete Illustrated Guide to Looking Like a Hot Dude, ftmguide.rassaku.net
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
Binders, sports bras and athletic wear compress the breasts.

                                         Image by: gc2b.co
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
Binders, sports bras and athletic wear compress the breasts.

                       Images by: amazon.com, bluestockingsboutique.com, underworks.com (last 2)
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
    Common Advice on Binding Safety from Websites by or for Trans Men

Do not use Ace bandages or duct tape for binding -- these can restrict breathing and cause
  tissue damage. Do not bind for longer than 8-12 hours. Tissues need time to recover.

                                                             Images by: point5cc.com, aminoapps.com
Safety of binding: what do
published studies say about it?

There is only one such study.

Online survey of 1,800 adults
assigned female at birth with current
or past history of binding. Data
included demographics, binding
practices, mood changes, and
presence of any of 28 adverse health
outcomes.
Binding Survey: Sample Characteristics

        Geographical location:                                      Gender Identity (marking all that apply):

                   USA                   68%                                   Transgender                                 80%
                   Canada                13%                                   Male or masculine                           68%
                                                                               Genderqueer/bigender                        34%
                   38 countries represented                                    Agender                                     34%
                                                                               Feminine                                    12%
        Age:                                                                   Masculine female                             7%
                   18-24                 58%                                   Cisgender                                    2%
                   25-34                 33%                                   Intersex                                     1%

                   Range                 18-66 y
                   Median                23 y

Peitzmeier et al. (2017) Health impact of chest binding among transgender adults: a community-engaged, cross-sectional study. Culture, Health
& Sexuality, 19:1, 64-75.
Binding Survey: Binding Practices

                 Hours per day spent binding (median)                              10 hours
                 Days per week spent binding (median)                               7 days
                 Duration of binding (median)                                       2 years

                 Binding methods used (mark all that apply)
                         Commercial binders                                        87%
                         Sports bras                                               33%
                         Shirt layering                                            24%
                         Multiple sports bras                                      19%
                         Elastic or other bandages                                 16%
                         Athletic compression wear                                 15%
                         Neoprene compression wear                                  7%
                         Duct tape or plastic wrap                                  4%
                         Homemade                                                   3%

Peitzmeier et al. (2017) Health impact of chest binding among transgender adults: a community-engaged, cross-sectional study. Culture, Health
& Sexuality, 19:1, 64-75.
Binding Survey: Negative Health Outcomes

 Adverse health outcomes by symptom:                             Surprising findings:

            Back pain                        54%                 Days per week spent binding was the factor most
            Overheating                      54%                         correlated with negative health outcomes
            Chest pain                       49%                 Hours per day binding was relatively uncorrelated with
            Shortness of breath              47%                         negative health outcomes
            Itching                          45%
            Bad posture                      40%                 Commercial binders were most correlated with negative
            Shoulder pain                    39%                           health outcomes
                                                                 Elastic or other bandages, duct tape and plastic wrap
            Any of 28 symptoms               97%                           showed intermediate correlation with negative
                                                                           health outcomes
                                                                 Sports bras, layering sports bras, and neoprene or athletic
                                                                           compression wear showed the least correlation
                                                                           with negative health outcomes

Peitzmeier et al. (2017) Health impact of chest binding among transgender adults: a community-engaged, cross-sectional study. Culture, Health
& Sexuality, 19:1, 64-75.
Binding Survey: Mood Effects

    Q: So with all these negative health outcomes, why would trans masculine
          individuals subject their bodies to such abuse?

    A: Mood rated on a 1-5 scale with 1 as very negative and 5 as very positive:

               Mood before binding                         2.1
               Mood after binding                          3.8

    Therefore think in terms of harm reduction, i.e. breast symptoms vs worsened
    gender dysphoria and suicide risk.

Peitzmeier et al. (2017) Health impact of chest binding among transgender adults: a community-engaged, cross-sectional study. Culture, Health
& Sexuality, 19:1, 64-75.
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
                                 Style Straightens Out the Lines

 Layering can be effective. Excessively oversized clothes are needless and unfashionable.
Side note: Don’t you just love the individual on the right? Don’t they look perfectly comfortable in their own
skin? Self-confidence is the secret sauce that affects how others treat you.
                                                                          Images by: autostraddle.com, rebloggy.com
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
       Style Straightens Out the Lines

                   Images by: dailymail.co.uk, dailymail.co.uk, theguardian.com
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
       Style Straightens Out the Lines

                               Fashion can even
                               hide pregnancy!

                                           Images by: dailymail.co.uk
Female to Male (FTM) Torso Management
Extending the silhouette down through the legs

   • Men’s and women’s slacks are constructed differently.
     Men’s slacks (expressed in waist circumference and
     inseam length, e.g. 32 x30) drop straight from waist to
     ankles. Women’s slacks are narrower at the waist and
     wider at the hips. So if you have a woman’s body, your
     waist size in men’s clothing needs to be individualized.

   • Wearing suspenders instead of a belt reduces bulk
     (bunching) at the waist.

   • Cargo pants work well because they add bulk at the
     knees thereby balancing the width at the hips to
     create a very masculine rectangle.

           Gabriel, The FTM’s Complete Illustrated Guide to Looking Like a Hot Dude, ftmguide.rassaku.net
Male to Female (MTF) Genitalia Management
           Using a Dancer’s Belt, Also Known as a Gaff

• Can be purchased at dance or crossdresser stores
• Can be worn in conjunction with “tucking”
                                           Images from: dancebelt.info, amazon.com, amazon.co.uk
Male to Female (MTF) Genitalia Management
                                   Tucking Procedure

• Tucking is a method to minimize the contour of the penis and scrotum.

• It involves pushing the testicles up toward the inguinal canals (through which the testicles
  originally descended) so they are positioned at the entrance of the canals or within them.

• Then the penis is pushed downward and back between the legs.

• This configuration is held in place with medical tape, a gaff, one or more pairs of undersized
  underwear, a bikini bottom, shapewear or Spanx®.

• Tucking permits the individual to wear tight pants or swimwear without a bulge.
Male to Female (MTF) Genitalia Management
                                           Tucking Safety
• There are no published studies on the safety of tucking. As a result, all we have are expert opinions
  and anecdotes.

• “A common cause of scrotal contents pain in transgender women is`tucking.’ … Resulting pain may be
  traumatic, mechanical or neuropathic. Prolonged tucking may also result in urinary reflux and
  symptoms of prostatism or even infection such as epididymo-orchitis, prostatitis, or cystitis.
  Prolonged positioning of a compressed urethral meatus in close approximation to the anus may also
  serve as a portal of infection.” -- Barry Zevin, MD, Center of Excellence for Transgender Health,
  University of California at San Francisco

• “Anecdotally, some people have reported pulling or tearing sensitive tissues in their genital region
  during tucking. This confirms the importance of going slow and listening to your body. Medical
  supply stores carry medical remover which may be helpful for removing build-up from tape. If you
  have concerns about the safety of tucking for you, talk to a health care professional.” – Transgender
  Health Information Program, Provincial (B.C.) Health Services Authority

                                                                 Sources: transhealth.ucsf.edu, transhealth.phsa.ca
Female to Male (FTM) Genitalia Management
                                            Packing

• Packing means creating a contour consistent
  with male genitalia.

• The simulated genitalia can be put together
  from available materials or purchased
  commercially.

• The genitalia can be inserted or pinned into
  ordinary underwear, or held within a jockstrap
  or a pocket of commercially obtainable
  underwear, or slung from straps.

                            Images from: tumblr.com, etsy.com, susans.org and amazon.com (clockwise from upper left)
Female to Male (FTM) Genitalia Management
                   Standing to Pee (STP) Devices

• Some trans masculine people find that standing to pee is validating.
• Others are content to pee while sitting.
                                              Images from: transguys.com, transitionmtfuk.uk.com
Common Gender Differences in Stance, Sitting and Walking

• “You can observe a lot by just watching.” – Yogi Berra

• For trans people who wish to feminize or masculinize their stance, gait or
  sitting posture, a great place to start is by watching how cis-gender
  members of their identified gender do these things.

• Let’s see how well we can observe these differences ourselves…
Stance
Common Gender Differences in Stance

•   Curved vs. straight lines
•   Narrow vs. wide base
•   Small vs. large amount of occupied space
•   Equal vs. unequal weight on feet, e.g. more on rear foot
•   Arms folded or hands near face vs. arms down or hands
                                                               Image sources: feminizationsecrets.com,
    in pockets                                                 recruitingtimes.org, tutorialspoint.com
Walking
Common Gender Differences in Walking
                       What did we notice?

• Wide vs. narrow base (width)
• Length of stride
• Speed
• Fluid vs. solid
• Heavy vs. light foot-fall
• Leading with chest vs. leading with hips
• Noticing the scenery vs. ploughing straight ahead
• Posture (imaginary string through top of head pulls upward, elongating the
       neck, rolling the shoulders back and straightening the spine)
• Open spaces vs. closed spaces
• Elbows in vs. elbows out
• Arms swing from elbows vs shoulders
Sitting
Common Gender Differences in Sitting Postures
             What did we notice?

    • Knees together vs. knees apart

    • Occupying smaller vs. larger amounts of space

    • Sitting upright vs. slouching

    • Hands together on lap vs. hands on knees
Gender Differences in Communication

• Voice: pitch, resonance and intonation patterns

• Content: word choice and use of descriptors can vary

• Body Language: gestural systems; active and passive listening styles
Vocal Pitch

• Vocal ranges are usually broader than shown on the keyboard above, but most people have
  “comfort” ranges that are narrower.
• Testosterone thickens the vocal cords and lowers the pitch of the voice.
• Estrogen does not raise the pitch.
• To feminize their voices, MTF people can benefit from vocal coaching.
• For FTM people who don’t use testosterone and even for some who do, vocal coaching can
  masculinize their voices and reduce mis-gendering on the phone.
                                                              Image from: professionalvoice.org
Vocal Resonance

• Resonance refers to how the sound output from the vocal cords (phonation) is modified
  by vibrating within different air cavities, such as in the chest, throat, mouth, nasal
  passages and sinuses.

• Chest vibration adds deeper, darker and richer qualities.

• MTF speakers can achieve a more feminine vocal quality by decreasing chest vibration
  and increasing vibration in the head’s cavities, especially in the front of the head.

• By contrast, FTM speakers can obtain a more masculine vocal quality by increasing
  chest vibration and decreasing head vibration.

• With hand on chest, a speaker can feel the amount of chest vibration.

                                                               See: “Vocal resonation” in Wikipedia
Intonation means variation of pitch during conversation. Masculine intonation is flatter
in pitch and ends on a lower note, while feminine intonation varies more in pitch and
sometimes ends on a higher note.
                                                                         Source: jamiefaye.com
Gendered word choices

The upper cluster shows words and phrases on
Facebook particularly distinctive of females,
while the lower cluster shows words and
phrases particularly distinctive of males.

Applying these results to spoken conversation
is tricky because comments written in social
media may not be the same as those used in
face-to-face conversation. Use of these words
also needs to be appropriate to context, and
not just randomly sprinkled in.

Schwartz HA, Eichstaedt JC, Kern ML, Dziurzynski L, Ramones SM,
Agrawal M, et al. (2013) Personality, Gender, and Age in the
Language of Social Media: The Open-Vocabulary Approach. PLoS
ONE 8(9): e73791. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0073791
Gesturing While Talking

• In ordinary conversation, women use more hand gestures.
• Though fewer in number, male gestures can be larger, while female gestures are more
  contained and in front of the body.
                                                      Gifs from: singleguysays.wordpress.com, tenor.com
Active listening is good for all genders, but children
 raised as boys might be less socialized to its use.
                                                         Image: slideshare.net
Recommendations for MTF speakers
• Ideally, obtain guidance from a speech and language pathologist to feminize pitch,
  resonance and intonation without damaging your vocal cords.

• If obtaining professional help is not feasible: (1) raise your pitch by a few notes; (2) make
  your voice soft and light; (3) decrease chest vibration; (4) vary the pitch; (5) avoid
  profanity; and (6) own some feminine words, e.g. cute, adorable, excited, love and
  yummy -- but be sure their use is appropriate to context!

• Practice laughing, coughing and sneezing more softly and in a higher register.

• Gesture more but keep the movements contained and in front of your body.

• Listen actively.
                                                See: transhealth.ucsf.edu/trans?page=guidelines-vocal-health
Recommendations for FTM speakers

• Ideally, obtain guidance from a speech and language pathologist to masculinize
  your pitch, resonance and intonation without damaging your vocal cords.

• If obtaining professional help is not feasible: (1) lower your pitch by a few notes;
  (2) increase chest resonance; (3) keep the pitch flatter during conversation; and
  (4) especially avoid “up-talk” (rising pitch) at the ends of sentences.

• Practice laughing, coughing and sneezing in a lower register.

• Avoid excessive gesturing.

                                              See: transhealth.ucsf.edu/trans?page=guidelines-vocal-health
Shopping: Things to know before you go
• Shoulder seams and waist seams are good to know. Find a shirt and a pair of pants that fit you
  comfortably. Measure their seams in inches, and also measure them against your arm by holding
  one end with a bent finger and seeing how far up your arm it goes. Later, when you are in a store,
  you can measure the seams of clothes you like without holding them up against your body.

• Size systems are complicated. You can get a very rough idea of what your sizes will be by checking
  your measurements against a sizing chart in a catalog or on the internet. Shoes in the U.S. are
  about 1 ½ sizes different. (A size 9 in men’s shoes is about 10 ½ in women’s shoes.)

• Vendors are there to sell you clothing and help you make the best decision for you. Pretending
  that the clothes are a gifts or using fake or androgynous names may not be worth the trouble and
  may not afford you the best shopping experience. Assess your own ability to navigate the difficult
  terrain between risk and self-liberation. Consult others about who your trusted local retailers are.

• Shopping can be more comfortable and fun when a cisgender ally of your identified gender goes
  with you and helps you navigate your fashion options!
Shopping: The totally avoidant approach

• Buy online, e.g. at amazon.com or payless.com. Try the clothes on at home and send back
  what you don’t like or that doesn’t fit.

• Shop online at specialty shops that cater to trans people. Expect to pay more than at
  regular stores. Also, be aware that clothes marketed for crossdressing men tend to be
  more immodest and revealing than many trans women might care to wear.

• Shop at Walmart dressed in your assigned gender. Don’t try anything on. Use the self-
  checkout lane. Try the clothes on at home and bring back what you don’t like.

• Keep repeating the process until you get what you want. Don’t feel bad – when you’re
  ready to take a bolder step, you will!
Shopping: The semi-adventurous approach

• Go to a big-box store on a weekday morning in your assigned gender. Look through
  clothes carefully, knowing that you have every right to be there. If a clerk asks if they can
  help you, consider saying yes. Sales people often provide great advice! Get a good idea
  of what will fit by measuring the seams with a tape or against your arm. Put the ones you
  like in your cart along with another one in the next size up or down.

• Screw up the courage to actually try them on in the store. Throw the clothes over your
  arm. If it helps your confidence, put a garment of your assigned gender on top of the
  stack. Enter a changing room of your assigned gender. Try on your clothes. Remember to
  enjoy the experience!

• Check out in a cashier lane, knowing that the clothes you bought fit you, look good and
  won’t have to be returned. If the cashier asks if you found everything you were looking
  for, say yes. And smile!
Shopping: The go-for-it approach
• Get dressed at home in your identified gender. Go shopping with one or more friends – the more
  the merrier!

• Head for the stores. Be mindful that Walmart and Target have friendly bathroom policies in every
  state of the U.S. – even the red ones. Enjoy trying things on and experimenting with your look. You
  can even try on undergarments and shoes.

• If you are a trans man who doesn’t find well-fitting clothes or shoes in the men’s section, try the
  boys’ section. That’s perfectly fine and you are likely to save money!

• You can pay for your clothes with a Visa® or American Express® card showing your preferred name,
  whether you had an official name-change or not. It is easy to get an add-on card if you already have
  a card in your assigned name at the same bank. It’s prudent to use the same last name in case you
  are asked for an ID.

• Go to lunch with your friends and have a great time! Today’s experience is exactly what you have
  always wanted to do!
Feel free to share this presentation with

  •   health and social service professionals

  •   trans and gender non-conforming people

  •   allies

  •   anyone else who can use it to help trans people!

                    cordingl@ohio.edu
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