Central West Queensland - national parks Queensland National Parks
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Contents Parks at a glance (facilities and activities)...................................2 Welcome......................................................................................3 Map of Central West Queensland.................................................4 Choose your escape.....................................................................5 Experience the Outback...............................................................6 Discover a land of boom and bust................................................8 Idalia National Park.................................................................... 10 Welford National Park................................................................12 Lochern National Park................................................................14 Forest Den National Park............................................................15 Bladensburg National Park......................................................... 16 Combo Waterhole Conservation Park.........................................18 Lark Quarry Conservation Park..................................................19 Diamantina National Park..........................................................20 Warracoota Circuit Drive............................................................22 Elizabeth Springs Conservation Park.........................................23 Munga-Thirri National Park........................................................24 Travelling tips, packing checklist, Be prepared, Be safe.............26 Further information....................................................................28 Parks at a (4WD essential) (non-flushing) Day-use area Ranger Base Scenic drive Short walks 2WD access Kayaking / viewpoint Mountain Canoeing Camping glance Toilets Scenic biking Bladensburg NP * Combo Waterhole CP Lark Quarry CP * Diamantina NP Elizabeth Springs CP Munga-Thirri NP (Simpson Desert) Lochern NP * Forest Den NP * Idalia NP Welford NP * Note: *2WD to park entry and/or specific campsite only, and only during dry weather. 4WD recommended. Photo: Diamantina National Park © Peter Scott 2
Welcome to Central West Queensland national parks Be adventurous! Journey off the beaten track over dusty Savour roads or desert dunes into sunlit plains extended, wildflowers Queensland’s dry, but far from blossoming after rain and the freedom lifeless, heart. of sleeping out under a blanket of A never-ending stars. Follow the footsteps of superbly adapted arid-zone creatures and long-departed dinosaurs. Traverse ancient Aboriginal trading routes and the tracks of hardy explorers and resilient stockmen. E B Relax under a shady gum tree on the banks of a river. Boil a billy, throw in a line and watch for wildlife taking refuge from the dry. D Revel C in the romance and stories of this wide brown land and its people. Catch a glimpse of Capture hardships overcome to survive the essence of the real Australia—harsh vast distances and unpredictable but fragile, vivid yet subtle, cycles of boom and bust! as dangerous as it is beautiful. Pen a poem, paint a sunset, capture it on camera or simply spin a yarn! (A) Peter Scott © Qld Govt; (B) © Karen Smith; F (C) Chris Mitchell © Qld Govt; (D) © Robert Ashdown; (E) © Qld Govt; (F) Karen Smith © Qld Govt. Photo: Maxime Coquard © Qld Govt Welcome to some of the most isolated national parks in Queensland. Climb 30m high sand dunes, explore rocky gorges, spot endangered wildlife, travel to the one of the world’s most famous dinosaur trackways. Remember to be self-sufficient—supplies and help can often be hundreds of kilometres away. Gary Jorgensen, Senior Ranger On behalf of rangers living and working in the west. 3
Photo: © John Augusteyn Discover shifting sand dunes stretching towards the horizon. Kynuna Combo Waterhole Conservation Park Queensland d Forest Den Roa National Park tal en Winton er pm Riv Central West elo La Muttaburra ev nd ina Queensland yD Bladensburg sb Kenne d or nt a ou Boulia am National Park Di Elizabeth Springs gh Conservation Park Lark Quarry Hi gh Aramac Walking access Conservation Park wa y only within park Longreach Barcaldine Jericho iver Alpha Mayne R IIfracombe Lochern Diamantina No National Park ve r National Park access Ri n Goneaway so Astrebla Isisford m National Park o Th Downs No access Bedourie National Park ee k Blackall Stonehenge Cr No access er Diam o Riv rc o an tin Ba a La Mulligan e Creek De nd E yr vel Welford s Tambo opm Jundah Yaraka o ro National Park Idalia b ent u al R National Park oa gh Munga-Thirri d Windorah Hig National Park Hell Hole Gorge hw (formerly known as Simpson Di National Park ay Desert National Park) am Betoota an tin aD Augathella Birdsville Developm ville e n t al Road ek Birds ev re Adavale elop C er Mariala p me Coo National Park nta Charleville lR South Australia oa Scale d Quilpie Morven 0 50 100 150 200km Some parks require a 4WD to access, please see individual park maps within this guide for more detail. Legend for publication National park State boundary Visitor information Sheltered picnic area 4WD access centre Conservation park Town with fuel and Natural viewpoint with accommodation Wi-Fi access (visitor no built structure or Mountain biking information centre) handrails Restricted access area Town with fuel, Canoeing/ do not enter mechanical repairs, Ranger station Refreshments kayaking Creek/river accommodation and a dump point for Information Walking track Fishing Waterway chemical toilet waste Self-guided Camping Parking 1 Point of interest walking track Highway Caravan Disabled access Wildlife spotting (high clearance) Sealed road Drive Queensland Routes Toilets/pit toilets Camper trailer Warrego Way Cultural heritage site (high clearance) Unsealed road Matilda Way Hospital or medical Car access 4WD road services Capricorn Way 4
Choose your escape Suggested itineries Head west into the sunset, where distance travelled is measured in days or the number Dinosaurs and drovers of ‘roos, emus or flocks of wild budgies seen. Savour wide blue skies contrasting against Radiate out from your overnight base rich red earth and wildflowers blossoming in a kaleidoscope of colours amid spindly at Winton or Bladensburg National spinifex after rain. Like the dust that seeps into your boots, the vividness and spirit of Park, venturing north-west along the this timeless land will be forever etched in your memory. highway across the Mitchell grass plains to legendary Combo Waterhole, Embrace vast horizons yet to be explored! Be sure to include a visit to some of or south on rough unsealed roads Queensland’s largest national parks in your itinerary. into the eroded sandstone ranges of Bladensburg and Lark Quarry. Take a Short trips from an series of day trips, visiting other local heritage sites in and around Winton Outback town using self-guided drive brochures (half to one day) available from the visitor information • Bladensburg National Park (follow centre. 4WD vehicles are not essential, The Route of the River Gum from but are recommended. (Minimum Winton or take Scrammy Drive) 600km if you visit all parks mentioned.) • Lark Quarry dinosaur trackways Cooper catchment • Combo Waterhole near Kynuna Drive direct or make a week-long • Big Red west of Birdsville (on the way loop (minimum 500km) starting from to Munga-Thirri National Park) Blackall, Windorah or Longreach along minor byways and unsealed roads to Idalia, Welford or Lochern national Taste of the Outback journeys parks. Discover waterholes of the (several days to a week) Thomson or Barcoo rivers at Lochern and Welford, and on leisurely walks • Dinosaurs and Drovers (Bladensburg and nature drives at towns of Jundah, —Lark Quarry—Combo Waterhole) Stonehenge, Longreach and Isisford. • Cooper Catchment (Idalia—Welford Relax beside Cooper Creek at Windorah. —Lochern; just one or a combination) Stop for scenic views near Yaraka, and between Jundah and Stonehenge where • Forest Den National Park you can also see Aboriginal wells. • Diamantina National Park Step back in time at local museums and heritage sites (Windorah, Jundah, Extended 4WD expeditions Isisford, Emmet) and learn about the Outback’s pastoral history at major (Above): Enjoying the vivid (one to two weeks) heritage tourism attractions at Blackall, colours and contours of the • Dusty Diamantina (Bladensburg— Spinifex circuit at Lark Quarry. Barcaldine and Longreach. © Karen Smith Combo Waterhole—Lark Quarry— (Below): Savouring the sunset at Welford National Park. Diamantina—Elizabeth Springs) Dusty Diamantina © Shane Hume Touch the upper reaches of this mighty • Munga-Thirri National Park (Simpson Desert) (adds at least one week to river system near its source when you any itinerary) visit Combo Waterhole (just off the highway near Kynuna) or seasonal feeder creeks at Bladensburg National Park or Lark Quarry south of Winton. If well-prepared for a true 4WD challenge, follow the river downstream to Diamantina National Park along dusty, rough roads, stopping for scenic views across steep-sided plateau (mesa) country and to relive the past at remains of Old Cork Station and the Mayne Hotel. After spending a few days relaxing by waterholes and exploring sandhill country, return home past Elizabeth Springs and back to Winton via Middleton (a minimum 1,000km loop), or head west to Boulia and Bedourie; or downstream to Birdsville. Diamantina National Park can also be accessed from Windorah. 5
Photo: Alicia Whittington © Qld Govt Nomadic budgerigars are regularly on the move searching for grass seeds. Experience the Outback Guide yourself or go with a local In Central West Queensland you’ll visit some of the hottest and driest Plan your own epic tour from an places in Australia. You’ll get dust in your eyes, flies in your face, perhaps outback town into the mulga scrub, grit between your teeth—or even be stuck in some mud! Wear a grin as down a river or into the desert. Seek wide as the landscape and capture memories lasting a lifetime. nature, find solitude or let history fill you with wonder. If you prefer Best time to go Stop along the way someone else to do the planning, The cooler months (April to September) Remote national parks might be your driving or to supply the equipment, are the best time to visit Central West destination, but don’t just drive past local you can join tours with experienced Queensland to avoid extreme summer towns. Stop in for fuel and food, see local guides—for just a day or overnight. daytime temperatures of over 45°C and sights, have a meal at the pub or stay the Visit outbackqueensland.com.au the risk of rainfall events and flooding. night. Even most small towns have the basics and you’ll receive warm, country Rain can fall at any time of the year. hospitality and helpful advice. Many outback roads are unsealed and impassable after even a small amount of rain. Flooding can occur suddenly—even Add local flavour weeks after rain in catchments upstream. Add one of the region’s fun-loving No park has all weather access. Munga- events or tourist attractions to your Thirri National Park (Simpson Desert) is journey. Whether at races for horses, closed from 1 December to 15 March. camels or yabbies; a showcase of livestock or rural prowess; an annual festival or a world-famous museum— the Outback spirit is alive and well and waiting for you to join in. Meet local characters, try a new skill, spin a yarn and savour the experience. Find out more at outbackqueensland.com.au Experience heading off the beaten track. © Tourism & Events Qld (Above right): Enjoy spotting woodland birds in mulga scrub or among the eucalypts. Fiona Leverington © Qld Govt 6
Welford National Best parks to... Park’s spinifex-clad Walk on marked tracks— Idalia, Welford, Lark Quarry and sand dunes hint of Combo Waterhole. the Simpson Desert Camp by a waterhole— in Munga-Thirri, while Diamantina, Welford, Lochern its open mulga on red and Bladensburg. soil contrasts with Throw in a line, or take a quiet the dense mulga of paddle on a waterhole— Idalia’s rocky ranges. Welford, Lochern, Bladensburg and Diamantina. Take a scenic drive— Many parks have Mitchell Idalia, Welford, Lochern, grasslands. Walk through Bladensburg and Diamantina. them at Lochern, Forest Mountain bike on bush roads— Den, Diamantina and Combo Idalia, Diamantina, Welford Waterhole or look over them and Lochern. from a higher vantage point at Relive the past— Bladensburg. Idalia, Welford, Lochern, Bladensburg, Combo Waterhole and Diamantina. Waterbirds and Discover dinosaurs— honeyeaters stay within Lark Quarry. reach of the tree- Capture the magic of the last rays lined river channels of sunset from a cliff overlooking and waterholes of mulga at Idalia and Welford, across Diamantina, Lochern and open plains at Diamantina or Bladensburg, or from the top of a Welford national parks. sand dune at Welford, Diamantina or Munga-Thirri. Channel country Snap a picture-perfect scene where dinosaurs walked (Lark dominates at Quarry), under a coolabah tree Diamantina (Combo Waterhole), or overlooking National Park the mighty Diamantina Gates which has (Diamantina). extensive wetlands Encounter wildlife! of national Tick kangaroos and wallabies off your list at Idalia, Welford, Lochern significance. and Bladensburg. Watch birds flock to watering holes Nestled amid at Diamantina, Welford, Idalia, Lark Quarry’s Combo Waterhole and Forest Den. spinifex-clad jump-ups, you’ll find footprints left by dinosaurs 100 (Top to bottom): © John Augusteyn; © Qld Govt; million years ago. © Qld Govt; © Qld Govt; Peter Lik © Tourism and Events Qld 7
Photo: © Robert Ashdown Tiny thorny devils in Munga-Thirri wear fearsome camouflage. Discover a land of boom and bust Arid environments Mitchell grass downs There’s much more happening in the Outback than evident at first glance. Natural grasslands, named for the Be thrilled by discovering superbly camouflaged wildlife, a perfectly dominant native Mitchell grass, support adapted plant, an anomaly in the landscape or relics of times long gone. the region’s grazing industry. Unlike trees, grasses can anchor in dark clay soils that expand when moist and crack deeply Life in the dry Landscapes worn by time when dry. Humans, plants and animals all depend on Craggy escarpments and deep gullies unpredictable flood cycles of the world’s tell of a land alternately shaped by, then Mulga lands most variable watercourses—Cooper Creek starved of, water. Sea floors and lakebeds Growing in almost pure stands, or and Diamantina River. of 65–140 million years ago form the base interspersed with grasslands and of the landscape, encasing fossils from eucalypt-acacia woodlands, mulga trees First Nations people thrived on the secret shellfish to dinosaurs, now exposed by dominate slightly moister, higher country bounty of these arid and semi-arid lands, the passage of time. in the east of the region. Each mulga tree trading along rivers and finding food (pictured below) directs rain to its deep in unlikely places. Artefacts, stories tap root, allowing survival in a dry climate. and connections remain and Aboriginal traditions and heritage are still alive today. Explorers, miners and pastoralists sought their fortunes. Many died, some barely survived, but others adapted to establish the towns, pastoral holdings and the parks and reserves of today. (Below): Rivers flood out over flat channel country. © Rob Murphy (Right): Scrammy Gorge. Rosemary Millward © Qld Govt (Far right): Mulga trees. © Robert Ashdown Channel country Mighty inland rivers disperse across gently sloping land into braided channels, creating waterholes, wetlands and floodplains tens of kilometres wide. Coolabah woodlands, sand plains and vast dunefields are adapted to infrequent rains that fall in short but massive deluges that flood watercourses then evaporate in the parching heat. 8
Memorable mammals Resilient reptiles In the heat of the day mammals rest in Encounter reptiles when it is warm or see What wildlife where? a shady spot, or hide in soil cracks and tracks where they have been. Arid lands Go birdwatching crevices or down a burrow. Keep watch in are home to a diverse range of superbly Spot birds along creeks and the late afternoon or at night. adapted lizards, dragons, skinks, geckos waterholes at Idalia, Forest Den, and snakes. Combo Waterhole, Welford, and at Brilliant birds Surprise Creek and in the spinifex Be surprised by the variety and numbers Fantastic fish, turtles and frogs grasslands at Bladensburg. of birds in the dry inland. Admire soaring Where there is water there is life. More Hunters Gorge and Lake Constance birds of prey and colourful parrots, than a dozen fish are found in the region. at Diamantina, Boomerang babblers in the mulga and honeyeaters Many, like the Cooper Creek catfish (at Waterhole at Welford and along creeklines. Waterbirds seek refuge Lochern) and the unique Lake Eyre basin Broadwater Lagoon at Lochern are at waterholes or breed opportunistically yellow-belly are not found anywhere great for watching waterbirds. after floods. outside these catchments. Spot lizards and snakes See yellow-spotted monitors at Bladensburg, Idalia, Lochern and Diamantina. Ring-tailed dragons are found by day at Lark Quarry and spiny-tailed geckos hunt at night at Bladensburg. Gilbert’s dragons live in woodlands and river margins, waving their legs in turn to cool their feet. Discover mammals Both red and grey kangaroos graze open plains while common wallaroos prefer the slopes of ranges. Black-striped wallabies inhabit thicker vegetation, and at Idalia, swamp wallabies live along creek beds. Spot echidnas and possums at Idalia, Lochern, Bladensburg and Welford; gliders and insect-eating bats can be seen at Idalia and Forest Den. Of the ground-dwelling mammals, stripe-faced dunnarts and fat- tailed dunnarts are widespread; (Clockwise from top unlike the endangered bilbies and left): Ornate kowaris seen rarely at Diamantina. burrowing frogs (pictured) and water holding frogs are In scrubby sand country you widespread, hidden away waiting until it rains again. might spy a tiny kultarr bounding Robert Ashdown © Qld Govt Black-headed pythons gracefully in search of cockroaches stretch out across roads at and other bugs. night in a range of habitats. © Shane Hume Colourful mulga parrots favour a diet of seeds. © Shane Hume From huge wedge-tailed eagles (left) soaring high on upswept wings, to swift, Watch wildlife, don’t hit it! streamlined falcons and kites that seem to hang in Vehicles share the road with mid-air, birds of prey are always on the lookout for wildlife. Minimise your chance of their next meal. collision by travelling at or below © John Augusteyn Central netted dragons can the speed limit, and avoid driving be seen at Lochern. © Shane Hume at dusk or dawn. 9
Photo: Fiona Leverington © Qld Govt Rugged ranges provide panoramic views. Idalia National Park Emerge from thick mulga scrub to lofty escarpments and rocky gorges Must dos where elusive yellow-footed rock-wallabies hide and views surprise. • Tick 6 species of kangaroos and Be captivated by colourful sunsets over distant plains and explore wallabies off your ‘must see’ list. heritage sites for an insight into the hardships faced by those living • Gaze from craggy escarpments over mulga-covered ridges to here in years gone by. distant plains beyond. Trees line waterways that stretch from Mulga scrub covers much of 144,000ha rocks to river channels. Wildlife spotting Idalia, and mature mulga has good leaf Spot yellow-footed rock-wallabies at • Imagine stories behind the rusty litter cover and fallen logs that make ideal Emmett Pocket lookout and Bullock Gorge. iron and splintered bush timber of old stockyards, huts and fauna habitat. Dawson gums and mountain Discover red and grey kangaroos in open pastoral-era relics at Old Idalia. yapunyah trees break the expanse of areas, but on slopes and in the forest keep • Camp hidden in thick mulga mulga green on upper slopes; while river a lookout for wallaroos, swamp wallabies scrub near Monks Tank and red gums and poplar box grow on sandy and black-striped wallabies typical of awaken to the morning chorus flats beside the usually dry Bulloo River. inland areas. of outback birds. Watch at night for kultarrs (tiny mammals) Things to do searching for cockroaches and bugs. Getting there Idalia National Park is 113km Driving and mountain biking See Hall’s babbler, colourful Australian south-west of Blackall in the Gowan Most driving tracks are suitable for keen ring-necks, crested bellbirds and Ranges. To access the park, a 4WD mountain bikers experienced in arid and is recommended. From Blackall, plum-headed finches. Keep an eye out remote terrain. It’s 47km from the park at the camping area for white-plumed head west along the Isisford Road for 44km, then turn left onto Blackall– entrance to Emmet Pocket lookout, with honeyeaters and eastern yellow robins at Emmet Road. After 25km turn left several side branches and walks along the far western limit of their known habitat. again at the Idalia National Park sign the way. and follow the road for 44km to the entrance of the park. It is a further 33km to Monks Tank camping area. Fuel and supplies are available from Blackall (113km) and Isisford (120km). Did you know? Yellow-footed rock-wallabies Petrogale xanthopus celeris are well-camouflaged in the safety of the rocky outcrops, leaving only to drink and graze at the base of cliffs. (Above): Emmet Pocket lookout is a perfect spot to enjoy the view. They are vulnerable to extinction and Fiona Leverington © Qld Govt threatened by foxes and competitors (Left): Yellow-footed rock-wallabies such as goats and sheep. Please do inhabit high rocky escarpments. © Qld Govt not disturb them by climbing down 10 among the rocks.
Places to go Be up early to see the first Old Idalia rays of the sun creeping (Allow 30 minutes to explore). across the slopes and Grade: easy. plains; or end the day with Wander through remains of a musterers’ a stunning sunset walk hut. Pass a wagon and an old ship’s tank (remember to take a torch). where a natural spring supplied stock water. Ranger Peter Wave Rock walk 1.2km return (30min). Grade: moderate. Walk from Old Idalia to a wave-shaped cliff where wind, sun and time are nature’s carving tool and sunset is the paintbrush. Stake stockyards Visit innovative stockyards constructed between the 1920s and 1950s. Lengths of saplings and twisted wire held up to 300 cattle during muster. Junction Hole Watch for birds and kangaroos at this roadside waterhole. Rainbow Gorge walk 200m return (15min). Grade: easy. Admire white, red and yellow-tinted Places to camp sandstone 14km north of the Old Idalia Monks Tank turn-off. Murphys Rockhole 4WD recommended. (Top): Wave Rock See animals watering at a gorge shaded by (Above left): Stake fenceline Peaceful bush camp hidden in mulga John Augusteyn © Qld Govt river red gums. Look for koalas in eucalypt woodlands 33km from the park entrance. (Above): Native fuschia trees near water—you won’t find them © Shane Hume Not suitable for large caravans. much further inland. Bullock Gorge walk 2.7km return (1hr). To Blackall 85km Grade: easy. Bullock Gorge Rock markers show the way through bendee 7 shrubland along a ridge top. Take care here as there are steep gorges on either side. 8 9 5.7km Emmet Pocket lookout Emmet Pocket Gaze from the escarpment over the park’s 2.9km Murphys northern end. If quiet you might spy 6 3.8km 3.7km Rockhole yellow-footed rock-wallabies hiding Rainbow Gorge among the rocks below. 5 9.4km Monks Tank Emmet Pocket walk Old Idalia Wave 4.4km return (2–3hr). 1 Rock Grade: difficult. Junction Hole 4 8.8 2 A steep track leads into the gorge where Stake 3 km plains lie before you like a map. stockyards 2.1km Take drinking water. 7.9km 11.8km Scale Take care near cliff edges. 0 5 10 15 20km Supervise children closely. 11
Photo: John Augusteyn © Qld Govt Admire patterns and animal tracks in shifting wind-blown sands. Welford National Park Enjoy almost every outback experience in one amazing park. Birdwatch, Must dos fish or camp at a billabong; see spinifex on red desert sand dunes; delve • Enjoy the ebb and flow of life on into the past at historical sites and 4WD to rugged rocky scarps where the Barcoo River. Camp, take it easy, paddle or throw in a line. secretive yellow-footed rock-wallabies hide. • Capture a sunset and the contrasting colours of ghost At Welford’s southern boundary, the Things to do gums and wildflowers on red Barcoo River cuts a green and brown desert dunes. Wildlife spotting swathe west from rugged, rocky mulga- • Navigate along the river, through clad ranges towards Mitchell grass plains See emus on grassy plains and Major the mulga scrub or across sand Mitchell’s cockatoos, red-winged parrots and some of the most easterly red sand plains, taking in the stunning dunes in Australia. Seek contrasting and mulga parrots in mulga woodlands scenery and spotting wildlife. landscapes, varied wildlife and the shade and along the river. Look for brushtail • Delve into the past at heritage and tranquility of majestic river red gums possums in eucalypt trees at night. sites that reveal how the landscape has sustained people and coolabahs along river channels that Birding is brilliant around waterholes— for generations. bring life-giving water to thirsty country. glimpse pelicans, brolgas, black swans, whistling kites and freckled ducks. Aboriginal cultural sites are scattered Getting there Water rats hunt for fish and frogs and Welford is 260km south-west of across the 124,000ha park. Welford’s gather mussels along the river, while Longreach and 50km south of pisé (rammed earth) homestead built in spangled perch, yellow-belly and Jundah. You enter the park via 1882 is one of only a few still occupied in Cooper Creek catfish are found in unsealed Jundah-Quilpie Road. Queensland—but is not open to permanent waterholes. From Blackall (257km) drive south- the public. west to Yaraka then continue on the Yaraka-Retreat Road, or from Quilpie (270km) and Windorah (110km) take the Diamantina Development Road, connecting with the Jundah-Quilpie Road and entering the park from the south. 4WDs are recommended. All roads within the park are impassable in wet weather. The nearest fuel and supplies are at Jundah (50km) and Windorah (110km). (Right): Rugged rocky escarpments are a contrast to sandy plains. John Augusteyn © Qld Govt (Far right): Lily-covered Trafalgar Waterhole. © Peter Hogan 12
Fishing and canoeing Did you know? Places to camp Although its banks are steep and slippery, Cattle find mulga Acacia aneura tasty Little Boomerang Waterhole Little Boomerang Waterhole is a great but ignore gidgee Acacia cambagei trees. 10km west of Jundah–Quilpie Road. spot for fishing, canoeing and kayaking. Welford National Park and others are 4WD recommended. now destocked of cattle and protect such Camp near shady river red gums and tea- Driving and mountain biking mulga woodlands. trees on the banks of the Barcoo River. Follow a bush track exploring dunes, rocky outcrops, plains, channels Places to go and billabongs. Early morning or late afternoon is best for wildlife. Travel Desert Drive 22km one way (allow at least 3hr). slowly and be careful of other road users Mulga 4WD only. and wildlife. Gidgee North-west of Little Boomerang Waterhole is thirsty country of colourful sand plains and dunes. Visit a life-sustaining waterhole . Climb soft sand to the dune and capture desert colours on camera (take care not to disturb fragile plants) . See a bore drilled to bring oil from 1,800m below ground and where a windmill once pumped precious water to troughs for stock . River Drive 12.3km one way (allow 1.5hr). 4WD recommended. Travel along the banks of the river where river red gums line steep-banked channels. Usually dry with the occasional billabong, debris high in trees is a reminder that swirling floodwaters can sweep down the river washing away vegetation and Go birdwatching along the river and in the ranges. wildlife. Birdwatch at ‘The Jetty’ ,a © John Augusteyn natural rock bar protruding into the water. Mulga Drive Our little-known sand 71km return (allow 4hr). dune is Welford’s most 4WD only. photographed feature and Venture east past the stockyards, (stopping for glimpses of the old rammed is magic to visit at sunset. earth homestead) then onto scenic Ranger Sophia waterholes 6 and 7 . Journey over river flats and up into rough mulga country dissected by stony escarpments and gullies towards a viewpoint 8 and Sawyers Creek 9 . Sawyers Creek 7 Trafalgar Waterhole To Jundah 50km viewpoint Sawyers Creek 18km east of Jundah-Quilpie Road. 8 4WD required. 16 Mile Bore 9 Perfect picnic spot beneath Southern 4 Ju nd coolabah trees. ah Deser t Cross Bore - Sawyers Creek viewpoint Q Dri 8 ui Oil Bore 3 lp 1.2km return walk (allow 30min). ve ie 2 r Ro Desert Rive Grade: moderate. coo ad Waterhole Frances rive Bar Mulga D Enjoy panoramic views of exposed rocky 1 R iv Waterhole 6 er Drive outcrops, slopes and spidery networks of channel country below. 5 7 Trafalgar Little Boomerang Waterhole Watch for mulga parrots and at dusk Waterhole The Jetty Scale for yellow-footed rock-wallabies. To Quilpie 270km 0 5 10 15 20km 13
Photo: © Peter Scott The mighty Thomson River is a ribbon of life in the dry. Lochern National Park Travel to the heart of ‘boom and bust’ country where devastating Must dos droughts are followed by flooding rains that nourish the plains and • Admire Australian bustards transform parched channels into wetlands teeming with life. strutting across rolling Mitchell grass plains. With a 20km frontage to the Thomson Walking and mountain biking • See flood marks on tree trunks River, 24,300ha Lochern National Park’s Wander around the river and waterholes, where floodwaters of the many lagoons and waterholes provide or along the habitat drive. The park has no Thomson River have reached. refuge for birds and other wildlife. Wander walking tracks but it is quiet with gentle through gidgee or mulga woodlands and terrain. Watch for vehicles. • Take Lochern tourist drive and drive across rolling Mitchell grass plains contemplate how wildlife and trying to distinguish between the four Lochern tourist drive people adapt to cycles of wet different species of Mitchell grass—hoop, 40km return (2–4hr). 4WD only. and dry. curl, barley and bull. See pastoral-era • Relax at Broadwater Lagoon, Drive through the woodlands , past relics including winged dams (known gidgee swamps and gaze across open keeping an eye out for Emmott’s locally as tanks). plains . Visit Robertsons Dam . See short-neck turtles, pelicans, where gidgee logs were stacked in 1910 to spoonbills, black swans, Places to camp form yards and an old netting fence sandpipers and stints. Broadwater Waterhole was constructed to protect sheep 4WD recommended. from dingoes. Walk 100m to the edge of Getting there shallow Bluebush Lagoon to spy Camp by a permanent waterhole in the Turn off the Longreach-Jundah Road waterbirds. Wander around the old shade of coolabah trees. at the Lochern signpost 100km homestead complex on the flood- south of Longreach or 45km north of Accessible by conventional vehicle prone banks of the Thomson River. Stonehenge, and take the unsealed only in dry weather. road for 40km to the Thomson River There are no facilities. and the park boundary. The road from Winton (330km) via Things to do Lark Quarry can be very rough and Fishing and Broadwater takes 4–5 hours to drive. Watch for canoeing Waterhole bulldust—very fine dust—and for Throw a line in at road trains. any waterhole. To Winton Old homestead 8 330km Canoe or kayak at 4WDs are recommended. Roads Tonkoro Road 3 i v er Broadwater Waterhole. To are impassable in wet weather. 1 Longreach Shearing R 131km son The nearest fuel and supplies are 2 complex Road loo to om at Longreach (140km) and Stonehenge Water Th 77km Stonehenge (85km). Robertsons Dam 4 5 6 Shepherds Bluebush 7 14 Scale 0 5 10km yards Lagoon
Photo: © John Augusteyn Torrens Creek is a shady wildlife haven. Forest Den National Park Immerse yourself in a bird-watcher’s paradise where creek channels Must dos lined with magnificent river red gums meander across grassy plains and • Spy squatter pigeons hiding intermittent waterholes provide refuge for humans and wildlife alike. in the grass and blue-winged kookaburras nesting by Established to conserve black gidgee Places to camp waterholes. woodlands at their western limit, this • Spot sugar gliders and brushtail 5,890ha park has a diverse range of plants Four Mile Waterhole possums in river-side trees and fascinating wildlife. Reid River box, 4WD recommended. at night. ironwood, beefwood, bauhinia and other Camp in solitude near the banks of woodland trees occur on the sandy ‘patchy Torrens Creek under the shade of plains’ in the park’s western sections. coolabah trees and river red gums. Getting there Although used as grazing land for more There are no facilities. Forest Den is 100km north of than 100 years, little remains of this era Aramac, via Torrens Creek Road. apart from a few pastoral relics—fences, (Below): Brown falcon keeping watch for Turn east at the ‘Corinda’ signpost unsuspecting prey. gateways and a derelict round timber © John Augusteyn and travel 5km before heading bridge over Torrens Creek. (Bottom): Acacia woodlands are great for birdwatching. 4.5km north to Four Mile Waterhole © John Augusteyn camping area. Things to do Although accessible in a conventional vehicle in dry weather, Wildlife spotting a 4WD vehicle is recommended as Watch birds and other animals coming to small amounts of rain can make drink from waterholes at dawn and dusk. See whistling kites, white ibis, spoonbills roads impassable. Fuel and supplies and egrets. Rufous-throated honeyeaters are available at Aramac (100km). nest by the waterholes. Look at night for Beccari’s freetail bats skimming over water. Four Mile Waterhole Torrens Creek se Creek Paradi Corin da R oad Scale 0 1 2 3 4km To Aramac 100km 15
Photo: Michael O’Connor © Qld Govt Hard, rocky ranges rise above open grassy plains. Bladensburg National Park Leave open plains behind to refresh at unexpected waterholes, delve into Must dos the park’s rich history and venture up impressive flat-topped plateaus to • Picnic or camp at a waterhole not Scrammy Gorge and views over vast expanses of grasslands. far from an outback town. • Ponder life, and death, on a station in this harsh, hot land. Sense the significance of a cultural Things to do landscape and aging reminders of the • Admire gnarled ghost gums on past. Bladensburg is the traditional Scenic driving rugged tablelands and the curly Route of the River Gum country of the Koa People and was once a red bark of mineritchie (red 72km return (half day) from Winton. busy outback station. mulga) in dry creek beds. Pick up a self-guided drive brochure at • Take a rough track up a ‘jump See river red gums along watercourses, Winton’s visitor information centre, up’ to gaze over almost tree-less drive past scattered patches of gidgee set your trip meter to 0km and head plains stretching toward the trees then grassy spinifex and termite off to discover 15 places of interest horizon. mounds on higher sandy slopes. Erosion- including waterholes along mostly-dry resistant mesa (plateau) tops are hard Surprise Creek. Getting there and dry with a sparse covering of stunted From Winton head south towards vegetation—mostly acacias such as Scrammy Drive Jundah, turning left after 8km along lancewood, bendee and mulga. 40km return (2–4 hr). the Route of the River Gum. At the At Scrammy Lookout 8 at the edge of junction 7km further on, turn left to an impressive flat-topped mesa you see Bladensburg homestead (5km) and amazing views over the grassy plains and Scrammy Drive, or right to Bough river flats—especially at sunset. Shed Hole camping area (12km). Only accessible to high-clearance vehicles Conventional vehicles can access the Route of the River Gum, the in dry weather. 4WD recommended. camping area and homestead in dry weather. (Top): Take a self-guided walk through the original homestead complex and visit other heritage sites on this former grazing property. © Qld Govt (Left): You can get great photos of local wildlife at Scrammy Waterhole and, if the weather is warm enough, you can swim. © Dan Witten (Far left): Red kangaroos are seen on the plains. © Qld Govt 16
Places to camp Did you know? Bough Shed Hole Scrammy Jack was a boundary rider who lived alone in a simple, remote 4WD recommended. hut. After his hand was crushed by See wallaroos and red kangaroos from a wagon wheel he gained the name your camp beside Surprise Creek, 12km ‘scrammy’—an old English term south of the park boundary along the meaning ‘left-handed’. Route of the River Gum tourist drive. 4WD recommended, but accessible to high clearance 2WD vehicles in dry weather. Wildlife spotting Mitchell grass plains are a great spot to Places to go see red kangaroos. They are also ideal Bladensburg homestead habitat for the largest known population Imagine outback station life on a visit of endangered Julia Creek dunnarts, as to the restored homestead (now an well as planigales (native marsupial mice) information centre and ranger office) that sleep by day in the cracks of heavy and nearby staff quarters, meat house black soil but are active at night. and store. Bladensburg is home to a wonderful Engine Hole diversity of birds, including emus, Picnic or swim at a horseshoe-shaped Australian bustards, Hall’s babblers, waterhole lined with stunning, white river spotted bowerbirds and singing red gums. bushlarks. Discover painted firetails and (Above): The greatest threats to this tiny Julia rufous-crowned emu-wrens flitting among Creek dunnart Sminthopsis douglasi are feral Skull Hole cats (which prey on them) and prickly acacia trees—a Sense the significance of a dry-country the spinifex, and painted honeyeaters weed that alters the plain habitat. Greg Mifsud © Qld Govt waterhole filled by a waterfall in the wet or black honeyeaters in trees along (Top): Spinifix pigeon season. This is believed to be the site creek lines. Rosemary Millward © Qld Govt of a tragic and violent massacre of To Winton Aboriginal people in the late 1800s. 14km R oute of the Ri Ca Racetrack remnants S ur p mp be White stakes one furlong (200m) apart ll C ad r i se re mark the Old Bladensburg racetrack, Ro ek h where race carnivals were once held Cre a W in t o n – Ju n d Shearing shed ver Gum ek to raise funds for returning WWII Opalton Road Engine 1 Homestead servicemen. Hole 2 Scrammy C r Grave of baby Delia Dalrymple Scr Scrammy Imagine the hardships of a time before am m 8 Lookout antibiotics, when babies sometimes died 3 ee k of simple infections. y Bough Skull Hole Dr 4 e Shed Hole iv Top Racetrack 7 Scrammy Scrammy Gorge Waterhole Crossing 5 Water coursing through cracks and Baby Delia 6 Scrammy crevices of the hard-topped plateau Gorge grave M undermines the softer sandstone layer ist Surp ak Cr beneath, until eventually large blocks e Logan ee ri s eC k Falls r Scale tumble into the gorge. Admire the gnarled ee 0 5 10km ‘Octopus Tree’ (a ghost gum), rock figs k and lancewood clinging to life in rugged conditions. Stay well back, cliff edges are unstable. Gaze over vast plains from Scrammy Lookout. © Karen Smith Scrammy Waterhole This rock-bottomed waterhole is 2m deep and rarely dries up. Cliff edges are unstable. Keep well back from the edge and supervise children closely. 17
Photo: © Jodie Kurpershoek Carefully constructed overshots help hold water between infrequent storms. Combo Waterhole Conservation Park Did the jolly swagman camp by Combo Waterhole? It’s easy to imagine Must dos this infamous spot might have inspired Waltzing Matilda. Feel history • Picnic in the shade of a coolabah come alive at coolabah-lined waterholes near a station visited by tree, pondering tales of the past. renowned Australian poet AB ‘Banjo’ Paterson. • Birdwatch along the river—a ribbon of life in the dry. Rivers provide both life-force and Places to stay connections across the dry inland. Explore Camping is not permitted. Getting there a series of waterholes surrounded by vast Stay overnight in Kynuna nearby. Turn off the Landsborough Highway Mitchell grass plains. 132km north-west of Winton (13km The Koa People were the first to follow Places to go south of Kynuna) and drive 8km to the Diamantina River, pioneering paths the picnic area. The access is sealed Combo Waterhole walk of trade and travel along its braided and suitable for 2WD vehicles. 2.6km return (1hr). channels. Explorers followed, settlers Grade: easy. then brought sheep and cattle and Discover the story of Waltzing Matilda on established a stock route. Cobb and a self-guided walk to Combo Waterhole. Co teams trotted close behind and it is believed that there was a changing station The track floods after rain—never attempt at Combo Waterhole. See historic stone- to cross the flooded creek. pitched overshots (crossings) along the To Kynuna 13km coach route traversing the Diamantina River’s braided channels. Things to do Picnic at a small day-use area near the car park, or near the waterhole. Wildlife spotting Birdwatching is particularly good here. Admire the colours of rainbow bee-eaters and sacred kingfishers, and the low- gliding flight of spotted harriers. Listen for the far-carrying call of a tiny weebill and glimpse long-legged Australian pratincoles in open country where they Combo feed and nest. Waterhole Rainbow bee-eater. © Alistair Hartley Scale 0 200 400m 18
Photo: © John Augusteyn Dinosaur trackways. Lark Quarry Conservation Park Wonder wide-eyed at more than 4,000 muddy footprints left by Must dos pre-historic creatures on the shores of a lake 100 million years ago. • Step back into the age of dinosaurs on a guided tour of the In a striking landscape of ancient mesas, Jump Up loop dinosaur trackways . gullies and broken escarpments rising • Stroll through spinifex and climb 3.5km return (1.5hr). above the spinifex, one of the world’s broken escarpments to gaze east most important dinosaur sites has been Grade: difficult. over Mitchell grass plains and uncovered. Preserved in rock formed Experienced, well-prepared walkers will west to the channel country in from mud, these footprints from the past enjoy this unformed cross-country track. the distance. were discovered in the early 1960s and It skirts several gullies, climbs along the are now protected inside an ecologically- western escarpment then re-joins the • Spy ring-tailed dragons, sustainable, climate-controlled building Spinifex circuit. lizards or snakes basking on sun-baked rocks. with information centre. Getting there Things to do Stop in Winton for directions, fuel Wildlife spotting and the latest road conditions, Spot spinifex pigeons, painted firetails, Dinosaur before making the drive 110km crimson chats, singing honeyeaters 1 trackways south-west via rough, partially and little woodswallows. Watch for 2 sealed roads. A 4WD is not wallaroos snoozing under cliffs, look Spinifex 3 essential, but is recommended. for lizards and see snakes (including Ju circuit mp U death adders) in sunny spots. p l oo Entry to the park, its walking tracks p and the orientation centre is free. To Winton But access to Lark Quarry’s dinosaur Places to go 110km trackways is by guided tour only and Scale fees apply. For details of tours and Spinifex circuit 0 100 200m bookings visit dinosaurtrackways. 500m return (30min). com.au or the Winton Visitor Grade: easy-moderate. Information Centre. Walk from the trackways building to a lookout for amazing views both east and Light refreshments and guided tours Camping is not permitted. are available in the wheelchair- west. The track is steep in places and care accessible trackways building. must be taken at the lookout’s edges. © John Augusteyn It’s not just the trackways that amaze. Take a walk to enjoy spectacular views and wildlife of the rugged spinifex-clad landscape. Be sure to carry drinking water. Ranger Sue 19
Welcome to Maiawali Country Maiawali People have lived on this land for thousands of years, with Dreaming stories being shared by Maiawali Elders for many generations. We cherish our connection to country and ask that you also respect and care for our traditional land. Photo: © Qld Govt Mitchell grass plains stretch to the horizon. Diamantina National Park Stretch your gaze across vast, treeless plains, over sand dunes and along Must dos river channels towards eroded low ranges on the horizon. Camp in the • Visit Janets Leap for a bird’s-eye shade of a coolabah tree, dreaming at night under endless starry skies view of Diamantina Gates where of the Maiawali People and travellers along the mighty Diamantina River converging channels of the long ago. Diamantina River push through a narrow gap in the Goyder and Captured in song and spoken about with According to Maiawali tradition ‘Dust stirred Hamilton ranges. by the winds is the Spirit of the Old People: reverence, Diamantina is the subject to remember them’—Legend of the sandhill. • Relax, canoe or birdwatch at © John Augusteyn of folklore and a spectacularly variable beautiful seasonal lakes or landscape offering a unique near-desert permanent waterholes. experience. At 500,700ha Diamantina is • Follow the Warracoota Circuit one of Queensland’s largest national parks. Drive to explore pastoral relics First Nations people understood this and learn about the landscapes of landscape—using the Diamantina River the channel country. as a trading route and finding food in its • Get your camera snapping to grasslands, sand dunes and sandstone capture desert colours, amazing ranges. Then came explorers ahead of wildflowers, diverse wildlife and pastoralists, stockmen and drovers stunning sunsets across the grazing livestock in good seasons on plains. Diamantina’s Mitchell grass plains. See tracks and traces of mammals and Getting there reptiles that have stood the test of time Head south from Winton (306km) in this harsh environment. Experience its or south-east from Boulia (183km), infinite beauty, replenishing waters and north from Windorah (350km) or east shimmering mirages for yourself. from Bedourie (275km) and follow the signs. Fill up before leaving town and take extra fuel. The drive is slow and dusty, and a 4WD vehicle is needed because roads are unsealed for 200–300km and wheel ruts can be deep. Even small amounts of rain make roads impassable. Visit in the cooler months between April and September. Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld 20
Walk up onto the plateau or sand dunes near Gum Hole to see the grasslands and sandhills at closer range. Ranger Chris Things to do Wildlife spotting Birdwatch at waterholes and wetlands. See flocks of waterbirds and screeching bands of budgerigars, corellas and galahs wheeling in unison. Look for resident and migratory birds breeding at Lake Constance and Hunters Gorge. Out on the plains enjoy spotting bushlarks, chats, emus and bustards, ground-dwelling Australian pratincoles and birds of prey. Places to camp (Above): Australian bustards walk slowly, picking Get caught up in a population boom of at seeds, leaves, fruit, lizards and insects. native long-haired rats in channel country © Karen Smith Hunters Gorge after good rains or floods. In response, the (Right): At Janets Leap. 4WD only. Fiona Leverington © Qld Govt rat’s predators, such as inland taipans, Although shade trees are few and it can be kites, falcons and barn owls also increase windy here, the scenery and sunsets are dramatically in numbers. Take a scenic drive stunning. Camp in an open area beside Mundewerra Waterhole, 13.5km from the 4WD only. Fishing and canoeing ranger base via Springvale Road. Take 90km Warracoota Circuit Drive Throw a line into the river at Hunters to marvel at permanent lakes, parallel Gorge, or paddle peacefully on permanent Gum Hole (Nandibargoola) sand dunes, claypans that appear as waterholes and seasonal lakes. shimmering lakes in the heat and vast 4WD only. plains clothed in gibbers or grass. Relax in the shade of coolabah and Discover cultural heritage bauhinia trees at separate sites along Immerse yourself in heritage at the Whistling Duck Creek 19.5km from the Walk or ride to be closer visitor information room at the ranger ranger base. to nature base, Mayne Hotel ruins at the park’s Ride a mountain bike along the park’s Note: Hunters Gorge provides higher northern boundary, ruins at Warracoota roads and vehicle tracks to experience ground, but both camping areas are Waterhole and at several grave sites. the wild—and often windy—nature subject to flooding in wet weather. Diamantina National Park is particularly of Diamantina, but be sure to have rich in evidence of First Nations people’s emergency contacts organised and life here. carry water. Watch for vehicles. Places to go Janets Leap Look out over river channels that constrict To Winton together to pass through a narrow gap in 225km the ranges. See Mount Mary (an island in the middle) and Moses Cone. Hunters Gorge Gum Hole Mayne Hotel Plan well ahead (heritage site) Isolation, hot weather, unexpected rain and the To Boulia 183km, Janets Leap potential for vehicle breakdowns Bedourie 275km Restricted require you to carry extra fuel, access area communication equipment, vehicle Wa r ra co Diamantina spares and sufficient food, water ota Ci rcu ranger base and medical supplies to last an it Dr i ve extra 2 weeks. Pack for hot and cold conditions and ALWAYS carry plenty To Windorah of drinking water. 350km Scale 0 20 40km 21
Warracoota Circuit Drive Diamantina National Park 90km return (allow 4–5hr). Grasslands (19km) of Flinders grass and 4 species of Mitchell Set your trip meter to 0km near Gum Hole. grass grow across vast plains. Ensure you have enough fuel and drinking See wildflowers here after early water, keep to the track and leave all sites spring rain. as you find them. Bronco yards (21.5km) were designed Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld These steel yards (0km) built in the to withstand restless cattle that 1980s by previous owners are still were branded, tagged, castrated or used by drovers moving stock along dehorned here. Turn left at the T intersection the Springvale Road stock route. Lake Constance (24km) Warracoota Waterhole (44km) Admire sand dunes (1.5km) formed See waterbirds at this semi- Linger at an especially deep, long and parallel to prevailing winds during the permanent wetland of national narrow waterhole that has never been last 30,000 years. significance, as well as budgerigars, known to run dry. A special place for the Claypans (7.5km) appear as corellas and honeyeaters in the Maiawalia, its importance to stockmen shimmering lakes in the heat. Lake surrounding coolabah trees. as a base camp resulted in conflict over Constance further on is one of the competing use. Leave artefacts as you Flinders grass (29.5km) is common in largest on the park. find them. low-lying areas where floods occur. Gibber plains (15.5km) are covered Warracoota Ruins (47km) Floodout (33km) areas on heavy clay by small stones (gibbers) polished Several stone-walled structures atop soils between sand dunes become smooth by windblown sand. a ridge (pictured above) are thought swampy in wet years. Bluebush, Maiawalia people used them for to have been built by early pioneers. spindly-looking lignum and sesbania chipping flakes to make stone tools. Access is via an easy 400m return walk. pea grow here. To Winton (306km) Goyder Range Map not to scale Gum Hole Mundawerra W ck C Nandibargoola Du his re Boundary Waterhole tlin ek To Boulia Bore g (183km) 13 Hunters Janets Sp r in g Gorge Leap vale Road Gum Hole yards 14 1 15 Moses 12 Steel Hamilton Stock yards Mount Cone 2 Range camp Mary 3 Di Warracoota am eek Spr an rie Cr ing Cre Waterhole 4 Diamantina ti Cooy ek River na 10 Ri rR ve 11 Diamantina oad Ruins Bronco ranger base W yards 9 ar ra 5 co ta o Cir cuit Little Lake Bronco Driv 6 e Constance yards 8 Lake To Windorah 7 Constance (350km) Legend 4WD road Permanent waterhole Sandstone range Camping Claypan subject to flooding Mitchell grass downs Information Sand dunes Ironstone gidgee country Lookout Intermediary claypan country 22
Return to main track A series of parallel sand dunes Did you know? (69km) reach up from the lower The Diamantina River provided country along the floodplain and up a natural route for Aboriginal onto higher plains. trade—a network of tracks running north–south that became their Mitchell grass plateau (72km) commerce road. Maiawali People Named after explorer Sir Thomas traded boomerangs, shields, pituri Mitchell, Mitchell grasses are invaluable to the cattle and sheep (a plant with stimulant properties), and later government blankets, in Photo: © Qld Govt industry of western Queensland. National parks are some of the few exchange for yellow ochre, rocks for places you can see ungrazed tools, flat-tipped single-piece Mitchell grass. spears, white shells and shirts. Elizabeth Springs Conservation Park protects fragile mound springs. Turn right at Springvale Road (74.2km) Turn right onto side-track at sign (82km) Gum Hole yards (84km) were made entirely of post and rails from Elizabeth durable gidgee and coolabah timber by skilled Aboriginal people and Springs Conservation pastoralists working side-by-side. Stock camp (85km) An old shed and discarded items are all that remain of a makeshift camp Park where stockmen ate and slept after a hard day mustering and yarding Venture north-west of Diamantina livestock. to a small (101ha) park protecting Return to Springvale Road endangered mound spring habitats. The endangered Elizabeth Springs goby fish and companion aquatic snails live exclusively in this small, restricted and very fragile ecosystem. Explore Elizabeth Springs from a signed 700m walk off Springvale Road (103km south-east of Boulia). You cannot drive into the park. Camping is not permitted. Did you know? The Elizabeth Springs goby (fish) and aquatic snails living here can tolerate water that is 17 times saltier than seawater and at temperatures reaching 41.5°C. Hunters Gorge is a large waterhole on the Diamantina River. (Above): © John Augusteyn (Top): © Karen Smith Boom or bust, water or dust Take extreme care As isolated as it is dusty, at times you can be cut off at Diamantina by overflowing not to walk on the claypans or flood waters spilling out from multiple river channels. Fed by rainfall in the sensitive mounds north and draining towards Lake Eyre in South Australia, multiple river channels stretch or adjacent wetlands. The several kilometres across in an impressive coolabah and lignum-lined river that defies mounds can be very dangerous the desert landscape with brilliant green. After an influx of water, herbs and grasses as bogs are not visible under burst forth across vast plains, followed by a boom in populations of insects and small the thin, dry crust. mammals, and in turn more reptiles and birds of prey. 23
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